UMASS/AMH 3T 312066 0333 3040 4 4 7 ..-*« \^^ -■ m^ :l LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE No.__1_g-f^-2._^__DATE._'XT:iSS_S SOURCE. _k-oJ^ie^e__ra^cls.. ^\l V/.35 July 7, 1888.] [The Gaedes. ^■■- The Gabden.] [Jl-LY 7, 1888. A. F. BARRON. July 7. 1888 ] tThb Garden- IX^X^li3T^ftT£;D w£;£;kj^y joui^Kal, OP HORTICULTURE IN ALL ITS BRANCHES. FOUNDED BY W. liubinson, Autlwr of" The ]yUd Garden" " EiifjUsh Floner Garden" 4-0. %: " You see, sweet maid, we marry A gentler scion to the wildest stock ; And make conceiTO a bark of baser kind By bud of nobler race : This is an art Which does mend nature, — change it rather : but The art itself is nature." Shakespeare. VOL. XXXIII. -MIDSUMMER, 1888. LONDON: OFFICE: 37, SOUTHAMPTON STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. The Garden.] [July 7, 1S88. TO A. R BARRON. SUPERINTENDENT OF THE ROYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY'S GARDENS AT CHISWICK, THE THIRTY-THIRD VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN" Is icbicntct). a v,33 W. R. June 30, 1888. July 7, 1888.] THE GARDEN INDEX IIsriDDEX: TO "VOLTJIylE! 2^2§:2^III. (Illustrations in Italics.) Abelia, 272 ; rupestris, Jioictring branch of, '2~'2 ; vnirtora, jiown-ing bronrh ofy 272 Abies Albertiaua, 44 ; amabilis, 472 ; brachy- phylla, 1P6, 229 Abuiilou -vitii'lium, 496 ; in Shropshire, 500 Abutilons in bloom, 31 ; seedling, 57 Acacia cr Locust tree, 64, 107 ; golden-leaved, the, 576 ; liueata. 14S ; loDgiflora mucro- uata, lis ; pubescens, 231; Rose, on walls, 105 Acacias, propagating, 537; two Primrose- flowered, ISO Academy, landscape at Ihe, 523, 5S5 Accident, a beautiiul, 452 / cer creticum, 4 ; saccharinum, 229 Accrs, Japanese, stock for, 200, 229 Achillea rupesti is, 55t) Ac inidia, 273 ; Kolomikta, flowcrirttr hray^di of, •z73; Ko(ottiikla, fruit of, S;73 ; volubilis, ilinctrnui li^aiich and detached floiccrof, 273 Ada aurantiaca, 175 Aentaria californica, 501 Carpentaria and Cholaya in Shropshire, 526 ffutgari'lra rah/culata, 392 Caasiope tctragona, 443 Catalpa, 302 ; Oignonioides, 893 ; hignonioides, foliage of, 393 CatSHCtum Bimgerothi, 888 Catasetuma, 61 Catchfly, Pjrenean, the, ?90 Caltlcya Aclandiio, 593 ; amethystogloBBa, 235 ; blue-flowered, a, 503 ; Blunti, 598 ; Buchini, 616 ; cltrina, 332, 372, 456 ; citrinv, 535 ; dolosa, 593 ; Eldorado aplencens, 132 ; Oardneriana, 575 ; guttata Prlnzi, 456 ; Lawrenceina, 331, 434 ; Lawrencoana deli- cata, 456 ; Loidigeai, 284 ; maxima decora, 103 ; Mcnd-^li, 512 ; MundcU, varieties of, 45i Cattleya Morgani;*, 494, 616 ; nobiUor, 593 ; Sanderiana, 616 ; Schilleriana, 593 ; Schro3- derse, 512 ; shoots, grubs destroying, 24, VS ; j Skinneri, 307, 386; speciosissima Erne^ti, ' 151; Trianse, 308, 331 ; Triana3 alba, 132 ; j Trianaj Osmani, 152 ; Wagneri, 511; ."Wag- | neri superba, 568 ; Warscctciczi, IS i Cattleyas at Downside, Leatherhead, 177 | Caulifl.ower, culture of the, 81 ; crops, the, of ; Leon (Finisterre), 586 i Cauliflowers, 10 I Cedar in its native home, tV'e, 105 ; Lebancn, ' the, 272; white, the, 68,84 [ Celastius scandens, 393 Celery, p'anting, on the surface, 244 Celsia cre'ica, 404 > Centaurea cyanus, 402 ; montana, 508 ; mon- tana alba, 530 , Cethalotua folliculari<«, 576 Cerasus, 416; Rcmperii'jrenSi 228; serndoAa, 417; Watereri, 420 Cercis, 416 ; ailiquastrum, 466, 491 ; siliquos- tmm, ftoicenng and fruiting branches of, 416 ; siliquastrum, foliage of, 416 C/mincFVO^s Forhm'.i at Hechfield Place, 551; humilie, 516 Cheilanthes, 242 Cheir^inthus alpinus, 477 Cherries and bees, 354 C/ifrry, All Sain-ts\ the, 228 ; C?iinese, dovhU ichile, 417 ; douhle-fioii-ered, ' Waterer's, 420 ; double-flowering, the, 539 ; double white, 466 Chestnut, "Horse, scarlet, the, iO; Jfoitervn/ and fruiting branches of, 40 Chilian shrubs, hardiness of, 229 Chimon^nthus fragranp, 128, 393 Chionanlhus, 416; retusus, 549 ; virginicus, 199 Chionodoxa cretensis albiflora, 395 ; Lucilise, 333 Choisya ternata, 229, 410, 501 ; ternata, pro- pagating, 360 Chorozema cordatum splendens, 324 Chorozemas, the, 43 Chrysanthemum, a new, 288 ; Beaute de Jar- dins, 466 ; culture, 8, 88, 167, 222 ; cuttings, 88 ; cuttings, management of, 23 ; cuttings, striking, in heat, 24; Golden Gem, 66; Governor of Guernsey, 6G ; hasmatomma, SI 6; in Japanese arh, 384 ; Maid of Kent, 88; Mignon, 112; Miss Marechaux, 112; Mrs. C. Carey, sporting, SS ; Pelican, 167 ; pest, a new, 566 ; Bt. Michael, 222 ; show schedules, 52, 112 Chrysanthemums, 332 ; blue, 88 ; Celery fly on, 502 ; culture in boxes, 243 ; dwai f , 222, 426 ; early-flowering, 436, 566 ; fimbriated, 288, 332, 384 ; final potting of, 502 ; fragrant, 332, 384 ;from seed, 184, 332 ;from suckers, 9; grafting, 223; growing, in boxes, 184; hints for the coming season, 51 ; in sum- mer, 565 ;in the West, 88 ;'Japanese, classi- fied, 502 ; late, 112, 184 ; management of young plants, 87 ; May-struck plants, 2SS ; notes on, 384, 576, 6J4 ; on walls, 287, 332, 384 ; preparing for potting, 223 ; prepara- tion of fctimulants for, 603 ; reflexed Japan- ese, 406, 426 ; scented, 9, 24, 52, 87, 112 ; sea- sonable notes, 166, 183, 288, 467, 486, 565 ; Fccond potting of, 242 ; selection of buds, 112 ; single, 332, 405 ; soil for final potting, 485 ; standards, 315 ; varieties of, 9 ; weak- growing. 222, 243, 332 Chysis at Studley House, 174 Cineraria Advance, 397 ; Aepasia, 397 ; Bea- trice Kelway, 397 ; cruenta, 87, 279, 363 Coffee tree, Kentucky, the, 229, 253, 349 Colletia, 440 ; bictonensis, 130, 228 ; spinosXf 440 CoUinsia verna, 555 Columbine, white, the, 5C0 Columbines, 509 ; Eecdling, 549 Colutea 441 CombiEatioD, pretty, a, 254 Ccmbretum pu'-pureum, propagating, 537 Comptonia asplenifolia, 441 ' Cones, collecting, 255 Conifer for chalky 6oils,;i05 ; seedlings, pro- ; pa^ating, 510 Conife se, winter tint=» of, 15> Coniferous trees, pruning, 498 ' I Conifers, banishtd, 301 , Gooptria pedunculata, 550 i Corbularia monophylla in ihe open air, 335 | j Cordyline australis variegata, 350 I Coreoj^sis lanceolata, 7 ' Corners, odd, 261 Cornfiowtr, blue, 402 ; mountain varieties of the, 500 Cornus, 441 ; Horida, 441 Corokia Cotoneaster, 500 Coronilla emerus, 490, 5?0 ; gUuca, 444, 492, 538 Correa cardinalis, 12 Correas, propagating, 360 Corydalisbracteata, 572; Ledebourian^, 214 Corylopsis, 441 ; sptcata, 411 Cotoneaster, 490 Cottage garden, a, 25 Covent Garden, floral f6te in, 543 Covert, planting a, 304, 400 ; plant, a, 84 Coverts, underwood for, 424 Crab, Siberian, the, 539 Crabs, hybrid, 353 Cranberry, the, 317 CrasBulaseptas, 83 Crataegus, 465 ; Crus-gaUi ovalifolia, 468 , (/landvdosa, 464 ; Laelandi, 129 ; Oxyacantha, 465 ; Oxyacantha semperjtorens, 465 ; Fyra- cantha, 464 ; tayiacetifolia Leeana, 468 Creepers, summer, 573 Crinum amablle, 356 ; latifolium. 66, 279 Crocus biflorus ttriatus, 113 ; Chilian, 138 Imperati, 113 ; yellow, 212 Crocuses, 335 ; autumn-blooming, 75; early, 240; in the house, 290; Indian, 413; on Grass, 395, 401, 451 ; spring- flowering, 573 ; winter-flowering, 214 Croton leaves, 59 Crotons. propagating, 162 Crowfoot, fnowy, the, 508 Crowfoots, alpine, 404 Crown Imperials, 402 Cucumber failures. 386 ; Lockie's Perfection, 568 ;Tree, variegated, 178 Cupressus Lawsoniana, 417 ; Lawsoniana, varieties of, 128, 178, 273 ; macrocarpa, growth of, 200 ; stricta, 3 ; thyoidea, 68, 84 Currant, Flowering, the, 466 ; golden-leaved, 564 Cut flowers, arrangement of, 378 Cuttings, selecting, 574 Cyclamen coum, 86 ; seed, sowing, 225 Cyclamens, hardy, ISO, 326 ; hardy, notes on, 121 ; Persian, 277; seedling, planting out, 241 Cyclobothra pulchella, 487 Cydonia, 490; Maulei, 181; Maulei, fiuit of, 490 ; vulgaris, 491 Cymbidium eburneum, 138, 307; elegana, 19; Loicianum, 296; Lowianum, 308; pendulum. Faust, 397 ; Marie, 349 ; Queen Victoria, 397 ; the, 59, 408 Cinerarias, 160, 293, 826, 459 ; at Famham Royal, 363 ; double, 380, 383, 542 ; fixed strains of, 504 Cissus discolor, 505 Cistus, 490 ; Clufi, 356. 564 ; cretictta, 490; Gum, Cretan, the, 490; Gum, Ladanum, the, 4.90; ladaniferv.s marulatus, 490 Cladrastlfl, 440 ; amurensis, 444 Clematis cirrhopa, 165 ; evergreen, 206 ; in- divisa, 86, 192 ; indivisa, propagating, 162 ; Miss Bateman, 163 ; Miss Uatcman C'-cr porch, 163; montana, 556; New Zea- land, the, 251 ; propagating the, 574 Clematises dying off, 94 Clerodendron, 417; fragrans, 384, 410; nutans, 412 Clerodendrons, propagating, 320 Clethra, 440 , Climber, annual, a good, 54 Climbers, Now Holland, 231 Climbing plants failing, 541 Clivia V. Imantophyllum, 325 Clontarf, St. Anne's, good things at, 3?0 Coljjea scandens, variegated, propagating, 427 Coburgias, treatment of, 58 Couculus carolinua, 440 Ccologyne asperata, 132 ; cristata, 118, 176 ; cristata, 265 ; cristata alba, 230 ; cristata Lemoniana, 13H ; cristata var., 231 ; ele- gana, 373; gramlnifolia, 177; eparsa, 176; speciosa, 264 ; tornentosa, 373 Cffilogynea, evergreen, 264 ; from Chits- worth, 284 Cymbidiums at Streatham, 296 Cyperus alternifolius, propagating, 415 Cyphomandra betacea, 500, 552 Cypress, deciduous, the, 110 ; Patagonian, the, 178 ; upright, 3 ; upright, the, at Broad- lands, Iiomse>/, Hants, 3 Cypripedium bellatulum, 496, 536 ; bellatu- lum roseum, 568; Fostermani, 66; Gode- froy06,.297, 535 ; grande, 176 ; Harrisianum, vivicana. 78 ; Hyeanum, 495 ; Lawrencea- num, 278, 433; leucorrhodum, 152 ; Lind- leyanum, 66 ; Marshall ianum, 132 ; Mor- ganiffi, S6 ; nitens, 133 ; occidentale, 567 ; Parishi, 593 ; Rothschtldianum, 255 ; Sal- lieri, 434; selligerum majus, 593; spec- tabUe, 120, 536 Cypripediums, seedling, 495 Cyrtanthera magnifica, 90 ; Liboniana, 90 Cyrtanthus lutescena, 86 ; McKeni, 79 ; obli- quus, 549 Cyrtoceraa reflexum, 540 Cyrtopodiums, 455 Cytisus albus, 490 ; filipes, 284, 443 ; prpecox, 516 ; propagating, 489 ; racemosua as a standard, 384; stenopetalus, 478 Daffodil, common white form of, 380 ; bulbs, ripened, 8 ; flowers becoming double, 401 ; Hoop-potticoat, whlto, 138; lluop-petticoat, a fine, 895 ; major auperbus, 433 ; old double, 481, 573 ; Tenby, the, ^^, 811, 402 ; trunk, fringed, a, 90 Daffodils, albino, 401 ; choice, a few, 433 ; double, from seed, 449, 50S ; double, old, from Ireland, 529; from Cork, ISO, 351 ; from Normandy, 330 ; Gaelic name of, 425, grown in water, 2S9 ; Hoop petticoat, 432 ; in pots, 59 ; single-flowering, becomii-g double, 356; ustful, 509 ; white, the. 482 Dahlias, cuttings of, 14U ; plants, old, of, 528 ; Pompon, 363 ; Tree, the, in Villa VaUtia, Canncii, 527 Daisies, Paris, in the fiiwer garden, 528 Dai-iy, curious, a, 452 Damsons, 173, 190, 210 Daphne, 514; Irl'gayana, 284, 3S0, 452; Cneorum, 442, 501 ; Cn^orum. 514 ; indica, 13, 118, 148 ; Laureola, 322, 498 ; Mezereum, 2, 65 ; Meztreum, 514 ; pontica, 590 Daphniphylluni gliui escenp, 619 Date Plum, ChiLO e. S6 Davallia fijiensia, 38; fiJicYisis, 396; fjiensis plumo?a, 38 ; fceniculacea, 101 Dav^liias, select, 65 I Decorations, personal, 430 Del[hinium Bassanio, 619 ; Belladonna, 601 ; Figaro, 619 ; erandiflornm Brecki, 271 ; trollifolium, 530 ; Zalil, 332, 367 Dendrobium bigibbum, 62; Brymerianum, 206, 254 ; chryseum, 123 ; craesinoda B^r- berianum, 152 ; Cambridgeanum, 3 6 ; ctryeotoxum, 536 ; densiflorum Fieldeni, 327; Dorainiinum, 133 ; Draconis, 297 ; en- docharis, 24; euosmum leucopterum, 102; Falconeri, 567 ; Falconer! and ylbo-sangui- neum, 452 ; fimbriatum oculatum, 386 ; jhnbria'um ocu'alviii, 511; Findle^anum, 279 ; Fytchiamnn, 43 ; Fylchianum rosetm, 83; flarveyanum, 386; Billi, 77; .'amesia- num, 331 ; nobile, ISO ; nobile album, 332 ; Parishi, 386 ; superbiens, 132 ; tbyrsi- florum, 373, 404, 526 Dendrobiums at Downside, 414 ; at Dunedin, Brixton, 297 ; at Kew, 456 ; at Messrs. Veitch's, 331 ; and Feins, 236 ; choice, for basket culture, 77 ; golden yellow, 511 ; home-raised, a decade of, 307 ; in baskets, 132 Dennstfedtia davallioides Toungi, 396 Dennstaedtias, 316 Desfontaine-i spinosn., 514 Desmodium ptnduliflorum, 514 Deutzia, 514 ; crerata Pride of Rochester, 514 ; double, the, 488 ; gracilis in pots, 282 ; eca- bra, 442 Dianthus sylvestria, 601 ; iricuspidalus, 204 Dianthuses, 312 Dickson, ProfesEOr Alexander, 133 Dickson's, of Chester, 477 Dietes Huttoni, 255 DiouEea muEcipula, 116 Diospyros Kaki, 86 Diplacus glutinosus, 458 Dipladenias, propagating, 32*^, 360 Diplaziums, bold-growing. 101 Diplopappus chrysophyllus, propagating, 379 Disa racemosa, 496, 536 Dodecatheon splendidum, 509 Dogwood, 441 ; Florida, the, 441 Dombeya Mastersi. 66 Dondia Epipactis, 432 Doronicum ColumnTe, 214 ; Harpur Crewe, 278 Draba aizoides, 396; bceotica, 180; brunse- folia, 506 ; Maweana, 214 ; sasicolor, 404 Drabas, 366, 404 DracEena Cantleyi, 160 ; flowers, preserving, 327 ; hardy, in Guernsey, 130 Dracienas, propagating, 154 Drimys Winteri, 515 Drosera lunata, propagating, 360 Drought, preparing for, 63, 196 £. Eastertide decorations and difficulties, 329 Eastnor Castle, 357 ; vieio in the grounds at, 357 Echeveria retusa, 147 Echium arboreum, 428 Edwardsia grandiflora from Cork, 452 ; te- traptera, 515 ; tetraptcra grandiflora, 618 Elwagnus, 2 Elliottia racemosa, 822 Elm seeds, an unusual crop of, 622 ; winged, the, 182 Embothrium coceineum, 492, 515 Enkianthus japonicus. 230 Eomecon chionantha, 480 Epacris Lady Panmure, 383 Epidendrum atropurpureum Randi, 619 ; bi- cornutum, 386, 45tl ; Endresi, 177 ; James O'Brien, 496; paytense, 593 ; rhizophorum, 331, 434 ; Schomburghki, 224 ; Stamfordia- num, 414 ; vitellinum majus, 434, 536 Eji'gini repens, 531 ; repens, 507 Epimedium pinnatum, 529 Epiphyllums, propagating, 415 Eranthemum cinnabarinum, 856, 478 ; pul- chellum, 116 July 7, 1888.] THE GARDEN INDEX vu Eremurus, 394 Erica carnea, 294 ; melanthera, 31, IIS ; pro- fusa, 443 Ericas, 31 Eriobotrya japonica, 515 Eriostemon densiflorum, 250 Erjithronium giganteum, 452; grandiflorum albiflorum, 3y7 Escallonia, 515 ; PhU'ippiana, 515 Estates, timber conversion on, 304 Kucalyptus globulus, 334 Eucliaris amazonica, 147 ; blooms in mld- wiDter, 43, 68; bulbs diseased, 351 ; house fit Gunlon Park, 3S1 ; specimen, 254 Eucryphia pinnatifolia, 515 Eulalia japonica variegata, 8 ; japonica gracil- lima, (319 Euonymus, green, the, 106 ; in the conserva- tory, 30; radicans variegatus, 2?3, 6(34; variegated, 273 Eupatorium atrorubens, 254 ; odoratum, 12 ; panamense, 279 Euphorbia jacquinia^flora, 13, 486 ; jacqui- niieflora, striking cuttings of, 542 Eurya latifnlia variegata, 605 Eurjcles australasica, 410 Evergreen climbers, flowering, 465 Kvergreen underwood, 472 Evergreens, hardiest, which are the, 539 Exaeum macranthum, 478 Exochorda grandiflora, 516, 590 r. FrilillaTia imperialis var. caslimeriana, 393 ; latifolia, 42S ; Moegridgei, 433 Fritillary, golden, the, 433 Fruit bloom on May day, 438 ; blossom, thinnlDg, 612 ; borders, top-dressing, 188 ; buds, thinning, 257 ; buds, sparrows des- troying, 211 ; bushes, digging amongst, 98; crops and the caterpillar, 005 ; crops, the, 421 ; culture, profitable, 10 ; fertilisation of, 281 ; grower's difficulty, a. 183, 260 ; hardy, ■* our own selection," 35 ; houses, night ventilation of, 71 ; notes on, 15 ; orchard, planting a, 418 ; overproduction of, 344; packing tender, 473; prospects, 123, 190, 246, 389,519, 649, 578; prospects, hardy, influence of locality on, 013 ; rooms, our, 257 ; tree borders, concrete for, 425 ; varieties of, for small gardens, 419 ; wall at Broadlands, Romsey, 258 Fruic trees, blight and scale on. 127 ; dis- budding, 341 ; hardiness of newly-planted, 258 ; mintn-e for, 24S ; modern planted and training of, 209 ; mulching newly-planted, 171 ; on walls, treatment of, 317 ; planting, 210 ; re-grafting, 45 ; roadside plantations of, 680 ; stone, gumming in, 474 ; summer pruning of, 012 ; r. rainfall, 245 ; water for, 46 Fruit waUs, parti-CDloured, a good wash for, 284 Fruits, choice, preserving, 260, 422 ; copy- right of, 140, 209, 260, 305, 361, 422 ; hardy, 17 126, 259, 476 ; long names of, 126 ; under glass, 36, 47, 72, 99, 145, 173, 211, 283. 318, 343, 354, 420, 439, 403, 617, 533, 679, 613 Fuchsia Dominiana, 541 ; splendens, 101 Fuchsias, useful, 323 Funerals, coloured flowers at, 183 Furze, double-flowered. 492, 539 ; hardiness of the, 591 ; Spanish, the, 664 Habenaria chlorantha, 526 Haberlea rhodopensis, 496 Ha3manthus natalensis, 116 Halaiatetra.ptera, 588; tetraptera, 607 H.alimodendron a-gm'eum, 5SS Himamelis, 688 ; v'&ninica, 5S9 Hants, notes from, 87 Hardenbjrgia Linaleyana, 2Y6 Hardy flower border, 629 Hardy flowerJ, 356 ; at; exhibitions, 469 ; at Tottenham, 83 ; from Holland, 478, 537 ; in masses, 606 ; lifting and manuring, 460 Hardy and semi-hardy flowers, a plea for the j Isoloma hirsuta, Ipomasa Horsfallias, propagating, 415 Ireland, south of, flowers from, 180 Iris alata, 64, 83 ; Algerian white, 113 ; as a rabbit-proof flower, 279 ; caucasica, 269 ; Febru.ary, 114 ; fimbriata, 86, 284 ; garden, 654 ; German, the, 600 ; Korolkowi, 249 ; neglecta Cordelia, 601 ; pallida, 575 ; para- doxa, 529 ; Pavonia, 576 ; reticulata, 120, 237 ; reticulata in pots, 25 ; ret cu- lata Mrs. M. Foster, 366 ; Rosenbachiana, 180; ruthenica, 26. 67, 600; Scorpion, the, 64 ; sibirioa, 0"! ; stylosa, 138 ; stjlosa alba, 113, 349, 450, 607 ; tingitana, 66, 119 Irises at Chiswick, 452 ; bulbous, 558 ; ish and English, 602 Fabiana imbricata, 562 ; imbricata, 676, 595 Fa?us Cunninghami, 466 Fences, wire r. hedges and walls, 328 Fern Bush, Sweet, 441 ; fronds for cutting, 38, 102 ; Royal, the, 38 ; Boyal, as a covert plant, 84 Ferns, beetles destroying, 375 ; and Deadro- biums, 236 ; British, at Kew, 37 ; Carbonnell collection of, 66, 359 ; choice, 396 ; Filmy, Cooper Forster, the, 113 ; grubs destroying, 137 ; hardy foreign, 136 ; in cases, 78 ; Maiden-hair, choice, 602 ; Maiden - hair, hardy. 187 ; native, our, 292 ; of St. Helena, ihe, 6 ; Prickly shield, 292 ; propagating, 184 ; terra-cotta, baskets for, 501 ; three most useful, 601 Fertilising Moss delusion, the, 170 Ficus, propagating, 510 Figs on open walls, 473, 517 FUberts, 422 Fir, Douglas, the, as a timber tree, 84 ; for covert, 400 ; Prince Albert's, 44 ; Scotch, golden, 3 ; Silver, beauty and use of the, 207; Silver, durability cf, 134; trees, prun- ing, 208 Fire Bush, 516 Fish manure for Orchids, 102 Fitzroya patagonica, 178 Flaff, Ca^fCftsfan, Vie, 269 Flags, Brazilian, 56; German, 32 Flamingo Plant, the, 89 Fiax, New Zealand, the, 600 Flaxes, beautiful, two, 555 Floral arrangements. 111 Florists' flowers, hardy, in April, 311 Flower garden, English, form in, 202 ; notes, 26, 55, 76, 93, 122. 203, 210, 210, 271, 291, 312, 335, 367, 395, 402, 432, 451, 481, 509, 631, 657 ; useful plants for, 565 Flower gardens, railway, 569 F'lower growing in the United States, 332 Flower seeds for early sowing, 166 Flowers and frost, 221 ; as Nature made and as art spoils them, 185; coloured at funerals, 183 ; cut, 136 ; cut, arrangement of, 305 ; cut, boUUif ^^scd, 167 ; cut, for winter, 20 ; for personal adornment, 285 ; hardy, from Devonshire, 380 ; in East London, 643 ; in dinple binichcs, 554 ; Zephyr, 10 Fly-trap, "Venus's, 116 Foam Flower, the, 501 Forest, New, Mr. Auberon Herbert on, 424 ; fires, 400 ; trees, deciduous, growing from seeds, 328 ; trees, pruning, 232, 328, 352, 570, 622 ; trees, self -pruned, 266 a Galanthus corcyrensis, 43; Elwesi major, 165, 214 ; Sharlocki, 180 Galeandra dives, 332 Garden, a cottage, 26 ; cottage at Mr. Ham- mond Jones's, 25 Gardener, glasshouse, the, 133 Gardeners and their ailments, 447 Gardeners' Garters, 481 Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution, 284 Gardening, aspects of, 414 ; wild, 450 Gardens and pleasure Grounds Fund, 66 Gatland Flower, the, 442, 501, 614 Garnishing, a useful pUnt for, 140 Garrya elliptica, 166, 562 Genista, 663; prsecox, 477; tinctorla fl.-pl., 590 Gentiana omata, 572; verna, 6S, 279, 666 Gentianella, the, at Oakwood, 404 Gesnera longifolia, 340 ; macrantha, 160 Goum miniatum, 600 ; montanum, 481 Ghent Exhibition, 302, 351, 873 Gladioli corms, hardiness of, 8, 64 ; culture, 139 ; lifting, 7, 76, 140 ; planting, 215 Gladiolus bjzantinus, 601 ; Colvillei The Bride, 193 ; in 1887, 26 ; in South Austra- lia, 394 ; Lemoinei, 617 ; the, 203 Glasnevin, flowers frjm, 138 Globe Flowers, 528 Glory Ti ee, drooping, the, 412 ; of China, 410 Gloxinias, 83 ; at Malda Vale, 651 ; in the Chelsea Nursery, 683 ; propagating, 363 Goelhea Makoyana, 138 Gooseberries, 14, 475; In market gardens. Gooseberry, a, wanted, 171 Gordonia, 664 Grabowskia boerhaavifefolia, 564 Grape arbour, novel, a, 318 ; Duke of Buc- cleucb, 526; Gros Colman, 190 ; Gros Col- man failing, 617 ; Oregon, the, 199 ; 'Vines, summer-pruning of the, 547 ; White Gros Colman, 46 Gripes, cause of shanking in, 34 ; stoneless, 578 ; two, ISO Grass for gravelly rides, 448 higher culture of, 271 Hardy foliaged plants, 215 Hardy fruits, 390 ; " our own selection, 36 Hardy plant, a variegated, 180 Hardy plants, notes on, 63, 606 ; at Manches- ter, 643 ; transplanting, 213 Hawthorn, the, 134 ; Chinese, 465 ; common, the, 466 „. Hazel catkins, 208 ; 'Witch, 589 ; Witch, Yir- ginian, 589 Heath, golden, the, 822 ; propagating, 379 ; Sicilian, the, 478 ; winter, 294 Heaths, 276 ; hard-wooded, in London, 616 ; propagating, 561 Hebeclinium atrorubens, 251 Hechtea argentea, 160 Hedera conglomerata, 432 Hedges, railway, plants for, 448 Heimia salicifolia, 688 Helianthemums, 590 Heliotrope, old, an, 293 Hellebores, 311 ; Austrian, 162 ; seedling, 113 Helleborus graveolens, 231 ; niger, 92 Hemerocallis Dumortieri, 676 Hemp, African. 346 Hepatica angulosa, 120 ; double blue, 402, 628 Hepaticas, 216, 310; from Gloucestershire, 233 Herb beds, dressing, 244 Herbaceous plants, 334, 367 ; and alpine, 599 Hcsperochivon pumilus, 507 Heuchera sanguinea, 279, 574 Hibbertiadentata, 13, 186 Hibiscus rosa-sinensis fulgens, 96 ; synacus, 588 ; s>/riocv.s, 589 Hieracium villosum, 601 Highbury Fields, 83 . Himantophyllums in flower, 71 ; m the house, 409 HolbalUa latifolia, 689 Hole, Dean, address to, 284 ; testimonial to, 602 Holland, bulb trade in, 327 Holly, water, the, 492 Hollyhock seedlings v. named varieties, 76 ; under cool treatment, the, 506 Hollyhocks, 556 ; single, 269, 310 ; in cottage garden, 237 Holwood Park, notes from, 591 Honesty, 507 Honeysuckles, early, 263, 660 Hop, Japanese, the, 94 Horticultural Benefit and Provident Society, United, 361 Horticultural joum.als, American, 83 Horticultural Society, Royal, and fruit growers, 375 Hot-water pipes, preserving, 487 Houseleek, Cobweb, 449 Houstonia ca^rulea alba, 432 Howth, notes from, ISO Hoya camosa, 458 ; Cumingiana, 408 ; im- perialis, 409 ; Shepherdi, 617 Hoyas, 403 Hyacinth for pot culture, 616 ; Grape, white, 291 Hyacinths, Cape, the, 249, 277 ; Grape, 450 Hyacinthus azureus, 113 Hydrangei, 589; hortensis as a lavm plant, 592 ; p,aniculata, 683 ; rosea, 369 Hydrangeas, distinct, 12 Hymenocallis humilia, 603 : undulata, 602 Hjpoxis btellata tlegan«, 326 Itea vi'-ginica, 606 Ivies in pots, 178 Ivy, Cape, 87 ; dying, 67 Isia viridiflora, 660 Ixias for the greenhouse, 642 J. J.amcsia americana, 690 ; anuricana, 606 Jamesonia, 501 . , ,,,, Jasmine, 606; Rock, 628; Spanish, 118; white, the, 606 ; winter, golden, 606 Jasmines, propagating, 489 Jasminum grandiflorum, 118 ; hirsutum, SO , nudim-iim, 606 ; officinale, 606; sambac fl.- pl., il9, 193 Jersey, New, notes from, 465 Judas Tree, the, 466, 491 ; flowering and fruiting branches of, 416 ; foliage of, 416 June Berry, 300 Juniperus rigida, 65 Justicia speciosa, 89 K. Ksempferia rotunda, 327 Kale, hearting, 105 , .^ ,. on- . Kalmia, 607; angustifolia, 57b ; latifolia, 60i , murtifotia, 003 Kensington Gardens, 83 Kerrla japonica, 564, 689 ; white, the, 4 Kildare, weather in, 181 Kitchen garden, cropiiing .a, 298 ; notes, lo, 39. 55, 81, 104, 131, 162, 169, 197, 227, 243, 267, 299, 314, 339, 371, 388, 407, 436, 46l, 484, 513, 524, 560, 586, 609 Kniphofia sarmentosa, 326 Forestry, 21, 84, 256, 362, 424; British decline ; Greenhouse fires not drawing, 407^ of, 21; Indian .and Australian, books on, 328 Forget-me-/>ot, alpine, 93 ; creeping, the, 479 ; Rock, the, 480 Forget-me-nots, perennial, 214 Forsythia, 562 ;6uspensa, 41, 563; viridissima, 663 Foihergilla alnifolia, 563 France, south of, gardens in the, 360 Francisceas, 323 ; in bloom, 410 Freesia culture, 27 ; ecented white, the, 59 Freesias, 161 ; in flower, 91 ; white, 83 Fremontia californica, 562, 566, 597 Fringe Tree, the, 516 Greenhouse flowering plants, 193; a few choice, 457 ; at Forest Hill, 443 Grevillea, 664; Preissi, 117 Grevilleas, propagating. 415 Greiisloke Castle, Cinnbcrland. 503 Giomwell, Rosemary-leaved, 20 Groundsel, Jlexican, the, 69 Guiva, white winter, 390 Gum Tree, rapid growth of, 179 Gymnocladus canadensis, 229. 253, 349 Gymnogramma Pearcei, 316 ; schizophjUa gloriosa, 292 Gypsophila cerastioides, 556 Iberis corifo'ia, 536 : petra?a, 557 ; semper- virens, double white, the, 531 ; Tenoreana, 573 Ilex crenata, 272, 360; latif Hum, 492 lllicium floridanum, 606 Impatiens at Croydon Lodge, 409 ; capeusis, 676 ; Hawkeri, 161 ; Sultani, 410 Indigo, wild, 30O Indigofera Gerardiana, 606 Insects and other pests, 112 ; in the fruit gar- den, 620 ; garden, 460 ; on Lettuces, 595 Lcdiwnum, Ifeic Zealand, 515, 618 Lace-leaf Plant, the, 138 Lacharme, M., the late, 67 ; memorial to, Lachenalla aurea reflexa, 113 ; palUda, 284 ; vendula, 249 ; rubida, 363 Lachenalias, 275, 293, 327, 382 ; best, the, 192 ; in baskets, 66 Lady's Slippers, twin-flowered, 103 Lffilia, a new, 19 ; albida bella, 19 ; .anceps, 43 102 ; anceps, white, 133 ; elegans, 162 ; elegans Schrffideriana, 138; flammea, 494 ; flammul.a, 297 ; flava, 331, 373 ; Gouldiana, 19; harpophylla, 176, 433; majilis, 635; peduncularis, 19 ; pra^stans, 61 ; purpur.at^, 593 ; Schillerlana, 434 ; superbiens, 132, ISO Landscape at the Academy, 623, 685 Lapageria, white, 192, 347 , . » Larch disease, the, 596 ; heart rot or dry rot in, 208 ; on thin soils, 362 ; transplanting, 182 ; wood of the, 376 Lastrea prolifica, 38 ; sancta, 101 Lastreas, 78 Lathyrus Drummondi, 531 Laurel, Alexandrian lesser, 329 ; hardiest, the, 4, 65 ; Mountain, the, 607 ; Portugal Myrtle-leaved, 129 ; Tasmaalan, the, 193 Laurels, hardy, 106 ; in bloom, 491 Laurus nobUis salicifolia, 492 Laurustinus, forced, 323, 382 Lavenders, Sea, 186 Law : — Dunsdon r. Moss, 67 Mrs. Reynolds v. Wrench and Sons, 108 'Validity of non-guarantee clauses, 369, 621 VUl THE GAEDEN INDEX [July 7, 1888. Lawns, top-dressing, 200, 229, 316 LaxenDurg, a note irom, 526 Lead-wort, Cape, 642 Lead-worts, blue and white, 364 Leaf-soil, pond, 28, 101 Leather-leaf, 392 Leaves as a protection, 163 Ledum latifolium globoeum, 530 Leptotes bicolor, 5a(>; serrulata, 414 Leschenaultia biloba major, 505, 602 Lethorion, 351 Lettuce, braised, 525, 6C9 ; Cos, Hick's harJy White, 609 Lettuces, early, 196 ; forcing, 226 Leucojum vernum. 186 Lewisia rediviva, 573 Libonia floribunda, 118 Lilac Charles X., 553 ; Marie Leguay, 526 i.ilacs, white, 477, 526 Lihes, Arum, 2S4 ; and Daffodils, 240; day. forced, 500 ; early- flowered, f 82, COl ; of Die Valley, 43 ; notes on, 381 ; propagating, 70 ; selection of, 572 ; white, ajar of, 217 Lilium Grayi, 290; Han^oni, 334; Harrisi, 276, 477; lonffifloruvi WiUoni, 75; moDo- delphum Szovitziaiium. 601 ; odorum, 576 ; Parryi, 142 ; spccioaitm Krotzcri, i;S9 Lily. African, white, S6, 122; Belladonna, o-iZ ; Bermuda, 276 ; Brisbane, 410 ; of the Valley, diseased, 595 ; Victoiia, in Adelaide, 501 ; Wreath, the, 91 Lily of the Valley Tree, S3 Lime, small-leaved, 229 ; trees dying, 3 Limes, pruning, time for, 65 Lissochilus, two, 567 Li'hospermum prostratum, 556; rosmarini- foliuia, 20 Lobelia cardinalis, 53, 94 ; Miss Hope, 583 ; scarlet, the, 53 Locust or Acacia tree, 62, 107 Lomaria gibba, 137 Longford tasiU, Sadnbur)/, 2cest riewof, 453 Lonicera fragrantis&ima and Standishi, 253 Loquat, 515 ; flowering in Worcestershire, the, 86 Lotus Jacobseus. 458 ; peliorhynchus, 351 LucuUa gratissima, 218 Lunaria biennis, 507 Luzula nivea, 575 Lyca-ste Deppei, 456; Measure&iana, 297; Skinneri, 255, 331 ; 8kinneti, the white, 103 M, Ma>/n.\tktd Court, ricic of jloKer garden at, 49 Magnolii acuminata. 178 ; conepicua, 428, 5H4; fuscata, 564; grcid (flora, 538; Halleana, 277 ; macropki/Ua, 128, 539 ; obovata, 564 ; v.mhre.la (triprtalaJ, 539 ; umbrella, e02 Magnolias, the, 538 ; under glats, 322 Mahernia odorata or glabra, 20 Mahonia Aqui/fAiv.iu , 199 ; /aHcicularis, 199 ; Holly-leaved, the, 155 ; nep^^Ieneis, 492, 539 ; ntpo.U'itsi». xhotrlnfj habit of yrotrtk in a ■ onstrratory, 198 ; lurtosa, 199 ; repins^ 199 Mahoniae. the, 198 Slaida \'a]e, recreation ground at, 423 Mallow, Jew's, 564, 589 ; Musk, white, 530; scarlet, the, iMj ; Si/rian, th:, 589 Malta, a note from, 452 Mandevillabuaveolens, propagating, 489 Mancttia bicolor, 552 Minuie, liquid for fruit trees in bloom, 534 Manuring Irom the surface, 512 Maple, Cretan. 4 ; tugar, the, 229 Maples, beautiful, 591 Mamnia /axriata, 345 ; rcMo-picto , 345 ; the, '/.< a v(M'_ plant, 345 ; Warecewiczi, 275 Maranta*, 345; propaKuting, 114 Marigcld, Marsh, double, 530 Mari)^oId8, Marsh, 433 Market gardening, i)aHt and present, 5S7 Market ^jarden nutus, 2, 74, 101, 179, 255, 301, 37H, 4(;8, 485, 5S7 Market gaTdens, water supply in, 412 Marth, trees for, OH 232 M.'isdevall'a ainabilis lineata, 103 ; f'himnra, 3^5 ; cucuUata, 151 ; Ilamjana, 385; Harry- dna lilacina, 567 ; Jgiica, 434 ; igvea, 151 ; Lindcni, 507 ; raccmoHa Crotsi, SB, 133 ; Bhultleworthi acanthocorjH, 332; Veitdii, 385 Masdcvallias, an cfFcctive group (f, 61 ; at Burford Lodge, 224 ; at iJownslde, 175 ; in tlower at Lcathcrhcad, 385 Miixillnria leiiidcta, 177 ; fiandtrfana, 332, 38tl. 593 Mayflower, Mexican, Ibc, 535 ; the, 507, 531 Mcidow.H, water, planting for profit, 322 Medinilla magnifica, -i'lH Medlar preserve, 71, 98, 124, 144. 173 .MegascfLS, 93 ; for winter bloom, 572 Melon Apple, 144 .Melon growing, 245 Melons, culture of, 532 Menyanthes trifoliata, 600 Menziesia empetriformis, 479 Mesembryanthemums, 11 Mesospiuidium with rose-coloured flowers, 414 Mespilus, snowy, the, 539 Meum atbamanticum, 572 Mezereon, the, shaded or exposed, 178 Mezereum, the, 2, 129 Microitaphyla, bifurcata (fertile and infertile fronds), 6 MicTOstjlis, 24 Mid-winter, flowers for, 90 Mignonette, 147 ; and Snowflakes, 113 Mildew, old, but excellent recipe for, an, 284 Miles, Frank, Mr., 254 Miltonia cuneata, 176, 225 ; Roezli, 373 ; Wars ewiczi, 332 Mimulus Cloth of Gold, 530 ; giant Hose-in- hose, 501 ; Hose-in-hose, 526; radicans, 601; thrubby. the, 458 ; the, 121, 164, 240 Mimuluses, garden, 215, 527 Minnehaha, Falls of the, 396 Mitraria coccinea, 491 j\Iqnocbjetum sericeum grandiflorum, 193 Rloonw^orts, the, 340 Moth, the leaf roller, 605 Mountain, trees for, 68, 232 Mulberry tree, the. in Mesopotamia, 475 Mulch, best, the 246 Mullein, Crete, the, 404 MUrren, alpine plants at, 571 ^Mushroom growing in America, 338 Mut-liroom houses, modern, 103 MvshrooiKS, 313, 371 ; on spent 3Ielon bed, 298 " My Garden," a ramble in, 571 ; Orchids in flower in, 692 ; stove climbers in, 616 Myomiis rupicnla, 93 Myriopteris, 225; clegans, 225 Myrsiphyllum asparagoides, 91 Myrtle, Tasmanian, the, 466 ; the, 492 N. Nanodes Medusse, 495, 5P3 Narcifsi, 452 ; at Chiswick, 401 ; at Twicken- ham, 451 ; grown in water, 2S9, 335 ; hybrid, 449 ; Morocco, 610 ; notes on, 394, 431, 479 Narcissus, bunch, the, 330 ; calathinue, 278 ; curious, a, 450 ; cyclamineus, 86, 180 ; committee, 278, 327, 351, 447; Gloiia Mundi, 446 ; Horsfieldi, 402 ; incompara- bills, a pure white, 482 ; Johnstoni, 311 ; minor citrinus, 351 ; minor true, 2S4 ; Mrs. J. B. Camm, 446 ; obvallaris, GO ; pallidus precox, 8, 326 ; poeticus grandiflorus, 402 ; Poet's, 368 ; Poet's, a large, 452, 5C9 ; Poet's, double-flowered, 500 ; S. A. de Graaff, 480 ; fcedling, 452 ; Sir Watkin, 380; triaEdrus albus, 356 Nepenthes, 79, 116, 250 ; hicalcarata, 29 ; pro- pagating, 360 Ntj'hrodium liodigasiaman, 61 S Nepbrodiums, ornamental, 618 Neviusia alabamensis, 562 Nuwry, notes from, 270, 557 Nitutiana athnis, 323, 575 Nidularium striatum. 325 Nursery, Cycas, a, 117; home, the, 109 Nympba?a Marliacea, 292, 4&9 Oa/.-. Alf/crlan, leaf of (k", 64 ; filack- Jaek, leaf <•/, 127; Beg, 400; Daiu/yo, Imfofthi-, 04; ICvcrgreeii, Ford'c, 129, 200; Evergreen, at AViltiin, 200 ; galls, 570 ; //ifvf/arian, lenfo' the, 04 ; leaf, a noble. 179; live, the, 304 ; peculiarities of the, 522 ; P-'anc-lea^'d, leaf o^, 127 ; srarht, leaf of, 127 ; Turner's, 41 Oaks, American, best, 127 ; Evergreen, 17;i ; Evergreen, avtuue of, 1107; three hand- fidiiic, 64 Oakwood, notes from, 138 Olll'lI'AKV : — BbtterJdgP, J., 231 Boswell, ,L T., 108 Cripps, T., 399 Day, J., S3 Gray, A., 108 llollingwortb. J., 351 .lackson. T . 569 Leach, v., 471 Mies, J.. 231 llauch, F., 471, 497 Smith,.!.. 157, 399, 471 Stacey, W.. 375 Walsh, J. IL, 157 Woodbridge, J., 375 Ochna multiflora, 250 Odontoglossum, a new, 20 ; aspersum, 434 ; aspersiim vinlaceum, 19; baphicantbum, 386 ; blandum, 77, 132 ; cirrhosum, 62 ; citroimum, 455 ; citrosmum pvmctatissi- mura, 512 ; cordatum sulphureum, 297 ; crispum, Charlesworth's variety, 397 ; Edithia;, 230; Edwardi, 231, 332, 386;g. ande, 386; Halli, 456, 015; Halli inagniQcum, 568 ; Harryanum, 76, 308, 434. 526 ; Hume- anum, 20. 152, 397 ; hystrix, 177, 2' 6 ; Lee- anum, 176; Lindeni, 434 ; luteo-purpureum, 456 ; madrense, 372 ; nebulosum excellens, 568 ; odoratum, 332, 373, 414 ; Pescatorei Leeanum, 386 ; Pescatorei (Pue's variety), 446 ; Pescatorei, yellow-flowered forms of, 433; ramosisshnum, 381 ; Rossi, 236; Rossi F. L. Ames, 397; Schillcrianum, 512 ; triuraphans, 456, 5C0 ; vexillarium, 511 ; vexillarium leucoglossum, 434 ; Wal- lisi and Sanderianum, 331 ; Warscewiczi, 235 Odontoglossums, 332 ; at CheUea, 331 ; at Wilton Housp, 615 ; cool treatment of, 297 ; hybrid, at Mr. Bull's, 308 ; three lovely, 495 Odontosoria tenuifolia, 38 Oleanders, 241 Olea fragrans, 504, 553 ; propagating, 427 Oleanders, propagatmg, 510 Olearia Gunni, 590 ; Traversi, 500 Oleasters, evergreen, the, 2 Omphalodes verna, 479, 480 Oncidium concolor, 373, 495 ; intculptum, 386 ; leucochilum, 414 ; Lietzei, 413 ; Mar- shallianum, 331 ; obryzatum, 434 ; orni- thorrhynchum albiflorum, 19 ; sessile, 495 ; splendidum, 414 : undulatum, 236 Oncidiums, small-lipped, 102 Onions, large, 170; transplanting, 168 Onosma taurica, 550 Ophrys scolopax, 308 Orange Ball Tne, the, 369 Orange, culture of, in Engl-nd, 18 Orange Flower, Mexican, the, 229, 360, 410, 501 Orange Tree, the, as a screen, 418 Oranges, propagating, 264 Orchard grafting, 342 Orchard house, lean-to, section rf, 191 ; span- roof, section of 190 ; the, 190, 247 Orchid. Butterfly, 526 ; Butterfly, a new, 43 ; exhibition at Holloway, 536 ; exhibition at Mr. Bull's, 56o; flowers, 63; leaves un- healthy, 385 ; Moth, Schiller s, G15; names, 18 ; notes, 236 ; notes from America. 176 Orchids at Buahey Down, Tooting, 297 ; at Cheltenham, 205 ; at Cheshunt, 103 ; at Croydon Lodge, 414 ; at Dulwich, 372 ; at Forefit Hill, 176; at Mr. Buchan's, 204; at Eopefield, Sevencaks, 614; fibh manure for, 175 ; flowering at Burford Lodge, 150 ; from Arddarroch, 535 ; from Perth, 138, 279 ; hardy, 456, 495 ; Moth, at [Heaton HouEe, Che^hunt, 62 ; rare, at Kew, 132 ; rare, two, 206; seasonable notes on, 591 ; The Wcodlands. 494 Orchis foliosa, 001 ; mascuJa,white-flowered, 500, 5ti7 ; Moiio, 478 ; pauciflora, 3ii8 Oreopanax dactylifolia, 617 Ornithogalum arabicum, 575, 601 Orphan Fund, the Gardeners', 13S, 278, 327, 423, 428, 477, 497, 521, 595, 620 Osmanthus ilicifolius, propagating, 427 O^munda regalis, 38 Ostrowtkia magnifica, 238, 279 Ouvirandra fenestralis, 13S Osalis br.isilieutis, 553 Oxera pulchella, 43, 83, 250. 510, 553 Oxlip Prince of Orange, 477 Oxlips, 433 Ozothamnus rosmarinifclius, 575 P. Parh '/stoma Thoinsonianvm, 175 Packnig plants for postal transit, 445 P;conia ancnionaifloia, 526. 573 ; lubata, 526 PseoDies, 601 ; Chinese, 119 ; Cbineso or her- baceous, at Tooting, 602 ; Vhlutsc, in a boicl, 119 ; bingle, 599 ; Tree, 13. 382, 443, 478 Pseony Agnea Mary, 619; Cyclop, 619; Lady ('arringtoii, 619 ; Marie Kclwav, 619 ; Miss IJtice. 619; Miea Salway, 619; Mou- tan, 120 ; Princo Albert, 496; Tree, Com- tesse d'Endorfc, 897 Palm, C'husan, ih", ol Neci'/lcld Place, 551 ; Date, Canary Island, the, 492; European, the, 516 Palms from seed, 574 ; propagating, 521 Pancratiums, 58 Pandanus. propagating, 6f^4 Pan&ifS, drawings of. 521 : French, 404 ; good varieties of, 239 ; self, 529 ; sweet- 6Ctnted, 500 ; tufted, 181, 186, 255, 601 Pansy Archie Grant, 601 ; ArdwellGem, 5^9; and atons. Benary, 83 ; Countess of Pem- broke, 508; King of YelloKs, 138; Sky- lark, 549 Papaver nudicaule, 54 Papaw, Virginian, 320 ; foiccrs of the, 321 Paphinia tristata, 19 Parasol de St. Julien, 2 Passiflora kermesina, 458, 553 Pas&ifioras, 194 Passion Flower, common, the, 3&5 PauUinia thalictrifolia, 583 Paulownia, the wood of, 400 Pavia macro itachya, 607 Pd,vonia Makoyana, 30 Peach blossoms dropping, 125 ; culture iu cold gruenhouse, 353 ; Grosse Mignonne, 247 ; house, best foim of, 355 ; leaves, weevils on, 301 ; trees, blister on, 534 ; trees, setting the flowers of, 438 Peaches, early, 351 ; failing in cold house, 474 ; failing to set, 546 ; stall trellises for, 532 ; too many varieties of, 159 Pearl Bush, the, 516 Pea, Fortyfold, 168 ; marvellous, a, 196 Pear tree, Siberian, 392 Pear, Beurre, brown, golden, or grey, the, 189 ; Beurre d'Aremberg, 1S9 ; Eeuric Did, 246 ; Beurri^ Ranee, 172; Beurre SuperSo, 172 ; Bonne de Malines, 318 ; Californian Easter Beurru, 354 ; Comte de Lamy, 378, 422 ; Comte de Paris, 318 ; Conseiller de la Cour, 282 ; Easter Beurre. 34, 124, 172, 259, 282, 342, 422, 438; Emile d'Heyst, 259; Glou Morceau, 189, 233, 344; grafting, 579; Jargonelle, 85, 143, 144, 172, 189, 246, 463; Jargonelle as a market fruit, 189; Jaigonelle in Essex, 123; Jar- gonelle in Scotland, 99 ; Jargonelle, the double grafting, 172 ; Jargonelle, 143 ; Jer- sey Gratioli, 09, 124, 172 ; I'lnconnue Van Mons, 259 ; Marie Benoist, 259 ; Marie Louise, 171, 189 ; Nouveau Poiteau, 259 ; Olivier de Serres, 35, 1?0 ; Thompson's, 234, 260, 343 ; Winter Nelis, 20, 48, 72, 124, 211 ; Winter Nelis in Scotland, 34 Peais, 71, 124, 142. 282 ; best six, 35, 69, 123 ; Californian, 124 ; Christmas, 16 ; double- grafted, 172; early maturity of, 46; fewer kinds of, 15 ; for Scotland, 15 ; for West Riding of Yorkshire, 143 : good, 71 ; in season, 2S2 ; in Somersetshire, 97; Janu- ary, 282 ; in Covent Garden, 99 ; in Kent, notes on, 34, 46, 99, 2S2, 342, 353; October, 282 ; orchard, grafted, 142 ; soil for, 353 ; soils and situations for, 462 ; standard, in Austria. 439 ; standard, for Britain, 85, 123, 159, 189, 211. 233, 306, 377 ; the Vest, 14 ; the season of, 318 ; too many, 46, Q>9, 85 ; vintage, 422 ; winter, 123 Peas, 298; best, the, 244; deep sowing for, 82 ; main crop, 513 ; notes on, 244 ; Sweet, 483 ; thinning, 468 Pelargonium AmbaEsadress, 619 ; Apple Blossom, £S3 ; Duchess cf Teck, COl; Edward Perkins. 443 ; leaves, spot on, 294 ; Mmc. Crousse, 477 ; Spotted Beauty, 619; vitahty of the, 57 Pelargoniums, furcirg, white-flowered, 458 ; Ivy-leaved, 540, 583; Ivy-leaved, dnuble- flowered, 541; propagatirg, 459; Regal, 5C4 ; Regal, show, and fancy, 443; scenten- leaved, 504 ; spot on, 117, 161, 193, 219 ; three good, 325 Pendell Court, flowers at, 86 Pentstemon Scouleri, 509 Pentstemons, 121 ; from seed, 600 Ptrgolei, Italian, on, or creet'ir-clad corcrcd way in the old Capuchin convint at Ainalft, Southern Italy, 405 Peiisteria elata, 88 Perncttyas, 106 Pescatorea Lehmanni, 224 Petrtea volubilis, 444 Petunias, 368 Pbajus grandifolius, 255; Humholdti, 102 ; tubcrculosus, 593 Phalffiuopsids, i05 ; at Clapton, 235 ; at Heaton House, Cheshunt, b2 Phalcenopsie gloriosa, 667, 508 ; Schillcriana, 615 ; Schilleriana, white, 43 ; speciosa, 593 ; tetraspis, 495 Phalaria arundinacea variegata, 481 Philadelphus Lemoinei-, 322 PhiUyica decora Viluioriniata, 446; Rrse- mary leaved, the, 3*^2; Vilmoriniana, Si Philodendrrii Aiidreanum, 31 Phlox, hardy, an early, 452 ; Mrp. Watt, (.01 ; rivalis, 477 Phloxes, herbaceous, 270 Photinia eerrulata, 465 Phi-ynium variegatum, 31 Phyllocactus creni,tus, 575 Pjuca Piusapo on the chalk, 155 Picotee, yellow, the, 291 Pilowort, the, 380 Filumna fragrans, 236 ; nobilis. 152 Pino, Nut, the, 472 ; Umbrella, the, 158 ; white, the, 498, 522 ; woods. 622 Pines for a bleak place in Lancashire, 570 ; St. Miehacl's. 180 ; Screw, 159 Pink, Fire, 500 Pinks, laced, 237 ; Rock, hybrid, 575 JoLY 7, 1888.] THE GARDEN INDEX IX Pinus contorta, l.'iS ; iusignis, 200; parviflora, 134;poiiderosa, 21; pyrenaica, 4v>S; Strobus, 522 Pitcairnia corallina, 113 ; Maroni and Dar* blayana, 356 Pitcher Plants round London, 29 Pittosporum Tobira, 155 riant, a new, 43 ; houses, work in, 13, 32, 60. 80, 91, 118, 161, 194. 220, 251, 276, 295, 324, 347, 364, 3S3, 411, 445, 459, 4SS, 505, 541, 552, 583, 617 rimtain Lilies in the wild garden, 556 Plantations, new, forming, 208 ; nurses for, 280 Planting, 358; deep, evils of, 60; on the notch system, 20S, 280 ; thick, tvils of, 352 ; thin i: th-ck, 376 Plants at rest, 155 ; for dinner-table, 365 ; in flower, 501 ; new, certificating, 327 ; new, of 1SS7, 4 Platytceca galioides, 284 Plen sure ground , winter work i n the, 200 Plocostemma lasianthum, 411 Movers and gulls in gardens. 537 Plum bloesom, the, 461 ; CbeiTy or Myro- balan, 252 ; Chinese, 428 ; Goose, wild, the, 475 : Mt/robalan, 252 ; Jilyrobalan, branch, fruil am! dowers of, 252 I iumbiEfo capensis, 192 ; capentie and P. c alba, 364 ; rosea, 31, 822, 409 Plums for profit, 97 ; pe.forated, 547 Po Jocarpus andina, 590 ]*oiDsettia puleherrima, 275 Poinsettias at Berkeley, 240 ; dwarf, 32 ; for table decoration, 241 ; propagating, 4S9 Polemonium confertum, 446, 506; himalai- cum, 500 Polyanthus John Woodbridge, 446; Narcissus, growing, in water, 360 Polyanthuses, 40i ; and Primroses, 423; gold- laced, 481 Polyjiodiuhi cultrattnn, 577 Polypndiums, sma'l -growing, 577 Polystachya pubsscens, 297 Poly&tichums, the, 292 Pomological progress, 45 Pt^mological Society, American, 534 Poud leaf-soil, 2S Poplar, Abele, 253 ; for timber, 134 ; ParaEol de St. Julien, 65 Poppies, Iceland, 54 ; and Pyrethrums from Wantage, 601 ; as cut flowers, 610; io a vase, tngraved on >cood from a photofp'oph, 611 ; in a vase, reproduced by a process from a photograph, 610 ; variations cf, from seed, (00 I*oPPy. Co'n, common, the, 231 ; Iceland, white, Mrs. Davidson, 575 ; Oriental ti.e, 529 ; the, 655 Posits and fan bouquets, 233 Pota'isium, sulphide of, 206, 230, 301 Potato crop, the, in West Cornwall, 586 ; Mof/iiuiii Bonam, 337 ; Thoiburn, 525 ; trade, American, 105 ; Trc?, 186 Potatoes, 153, 4^4 ; and Broccoli, 169 ; ea ly planting of, 268, 315 ; notes on, 244 ; sensa- tional crops of, 152, 297 ; trenching the scil for, 10; two good, 314 Primrose, Chinese, the, 23 ; double velvet, 452 ; flowers, ^C) ; grcen-flowereJ, a, 500 ; Japan, white-flo«ered, the. 501; snowy, the, 291, 395; Tooth-leaved, 324; twin- flowered, 452 ; wild, a curious form of, 452 Primroses, 396 ; alpine, 290; coloured, 290 ; double, 402 ; from Wantage, 3S0 ; hardy, 8 ; hardy, doubling of, 394 ; in Devoni,hiiei 138 ; notes on, 366 ; Oxlips and Cowslips from Cork, 428 ; two beautiful, 275 ; wild, doubling of, 451 rriuivla Allioni, .03 ; bellidifolii, 506 ; Chi- nese, the double white, 250 ; Clusiana, 528 ; double Chinese, Marchioness of Exe- ter, 83; florlbundi, 250 ; pubescens alba, 395; Reidi, .072; rosea, lartje va'ietios of, 462; fcieboldi, 444, 476; Sieboldi, projia- gating, 61 ; tikkinitusis, 572; verticiUa'a, 346 Primulas, Chinese, as basket plants, 79 ; double, propagating, 325 ; of the Mari- time Alps, 53 Piivet, barren, variegated, the, 199 ; varie- gated, a, 607 Probtanthera lasianthos, 496 Prune, German, the, 5(6 Piuning, 182, 448, 472, 522; and training ■ waste of force in, 577 ; in frostv weather, 14 * I Frunus cerasifera, 252 ; MjTobalana, 252 ; siuensis flore-pleno, 179 Pteria Mayi, 501 Pterocarya caucisica, 82; caucaska, branch and leolless iwuj of, 82 ; caucanica, young ('.'Of of, 82 I'uschkinias, 432 Pyrethrum Beatiice Kelway, 568 ; Meteor, 568; Wega, 568 Fyrethvums from Langport, 575 ; single, from seed, 500 Pyrus, Japan, 478 ; Maulei, propagating, 221 ; Sarbus vars. maliformis and pyriforniis, 154 Q. Quercus bicolor pannosa, 127 ; coccinea ■macrophylla, 127 ; covjerta, leaf of, 64 : deniata,' leaf of, 64; MirbecH, leaf of, 64; nigra, 127 ; Turner!, 41 QuiLce. 490; common, fruit of, 491 ; Japanese and ltd varieties, 321 ; Ja2>a,nvse, fruit of, 491 R. Rabbits and trees, 182 Radish, Retteka of Sweden, 56 Radishes, early, 153 Railway station flower gardening, 499 Rainfall of li:87, 108, 114, 150 ; v. fruit trees, 245 Ramondia pyrenaica, 575 ; pjreraica alba, 452, 568 Ranunculus LyalM, 500 ; the, 141 Ravenscourt Park, opening of, 477 R dcross Garden, 526 Redwood, the, for underwood, 448 Restrepia antennifera, 332 ; ophiocephala purpurea, 86 Retinospora eiicoides, 229, 325, 417 Rheum, 572 ; nobile, flowering of, in Edin- burgh, 549 Rhododendron argenteum, 186 ; argenteum roseum, 356 ;balsamiDajQorum album, 363 ; Countess of Haadington, 295 ; Countess of Sefccn, 219 ; Early Gem, 255; Hooker's, 284 ; Hippolyta, 619 ; javanicum, 503 ; Lord Wolseley, 325 ; multiflorum, 279 ; Pixie Queen, 279 ; pra^cox under glass, 58 ; Pjincess Alexandra, 90; Veitchianum, 250 RhododendroDS at Kew, 453 ; for covert, 2S0, 376 ; for pot culture, 458 ; greenhouse, 276, 553 ; greenhouse, a new race of, 86 ; hardy, forced, 295 ; Himalayan, propagat- ing, 574 ; hybrid, 526 ; propagating, 221 ; standaid, 564 ; two, lorforciug, 12 Rhcdotypos kerrioides, 4 Rhus Colinus, 129 Richardias, 5S4 Robinia, the, 64 Robinias, 3 Rochester, the Dean of, 303, 351 ; address to, 404 Rockwood Lily, the, in Ireland, 526 Rockwork, new, at the Manchester Botanic Gardens, 567 Rndri'/uezia nmrra, 372 Root trade, th**, 447 Rota alpina, 524 ; bcrberidifolia Hardyi, 310, 404 ; coru8can=, 550 ; indica, 550 ; lutea var. puiiicea, 526 ; micropbylla variegata, 582 ; minutifolia, 454 ; multiflora, seed- ling plants of, 403, 582 ; polyantha grandi- flora, 349 ; polyantha mmutifolia alba, 3i0 ; punicea, 5S2;rugosa, 478; sericea, 500 ; sinica 5b2 ; spinosissima Hoggi, 550 Rose Amazjne, 582; Aniia Ofliritr, buds of, 479 ; Austrian scarlet, 526 ; Bankiian yel- low, 326 ; buds, do they sleep in winter? 4 29 ; buds in winter, 523 ; Catherine Mermet, 500 ; Chateau des Beigerie?, .">75 ; Cleopatra, 549 ; Climbing Devoniensis, 5S2, 597 ; Climb- ing XiphetoF, 397 ; Cloth of Gold, 336, 4:30 ; Comte d'Epremcsnil, 550 ; Copper Axis- Irian Brier, 575 ; j;', Jiirtrstoa varie')/ in a tv.f>, 213; St. Brigid, 181, 204; seedling, 121; transplanting, 164, 204 Rubus dehciosus_ 519 ; rosrefolius, 4 Rudgca macrophylla, 382 Ruellia rosea, 410 RuEcus racemosus, 329 Rush, wood, the whit?, 575 Russia, Frott Plant of, the, 94 Rust'.c work, wood for, 522 S. Saccolabium tellinum, 133, 236 ; giganteuin album, 176 ; illustre, 151 Sag^, blue, the, 275 ; scarlet- flowered, 2S3 St. Helena, Ftrnsof. 6 St. James's Flower, 458 Salix pyrenaica. 507 Salpiglo^^is, 335 ; in pots, 583 Sahia, Pine apple, 43 ; Fitcheri, 275;rutilans, 43 ; f-plendens, 383 Salvias, 58 Sandwort, Balearic, £26 Sanguinaria canadensis, 433 Saponarid ocymoide?, 199 Sarcanthus usneoides, 307 Sarracenia Williamsi, 568 Sarracenias, 160 ; in flower, 481 Sassafras tree, the, 200 Satin Flower, spring. 214 Saxifiaga aromatica, 507 ; BoTdi. 310 ; Boydi albi, 310 ; Burseriana, 141, 290 ; Burseriana major, 66, 120; granulata, 478; granulata, ri.-pl , 529 ; Macnabiaua, 500; mutata, 53 ; peltata, 480 ; Rochtliana var. coriophylli, 450 ; rotinidifolia glandulosa. 576 ; squar- rosa, 506 ; Stracheyi, 165 ; Wdllacei, 509 Saxifrage, a beautiful, 66; an early, 180; ]\[eadow,the. 478 ; Urge-leaved, 480 ; moun- tain, white-flowered, 240; Saffron-flowered, the, 53 ; strap-shaped, in pots, 294 ; white- flowered, 335 Saxifraves, broiddeaved, 93 ; early, 394 Scabious in pots, 32 Scarborough, notes fr.;m, 135, 257, 478 Schizteas, 493 Schizanthus retusus 5=3 Schcenia C'aEsinlaua, 576 Scilla bifolia, a large, 335 ; b folia alba, 311 ; blue, and Chlonodoxa, 395 ; natalensis, 553; nutans and S. campanulata, 501; peruviana. 601 ; sibirica, 113 Scillas in bloom. SO Kcilly, flower trade of, 138 Scoliopus Bigelowi, 290 Scorpion Senna, 490 Seakale 131 Stdum h:rsutum, 214 Seed lists, too Icnstby, 168, 226, 340 Seed-sowing. 203 Seeds, germination of, li'>6, 197, 264; novel way of sowing, 78; tardy germinati n cf, 27, 96 ; the time to sow, 168 ; waste of, 267 Selaginella cuspidata crispa, 350; grown in trrr form, 187 . Sclaginellas, specimen, 187 j Semporvivum ai'achni.ideum, 449 i Senecio Ghiesbreghti, 59 Senna, Bladder, 441 Sequoia sempervirens, 252, 301, 349, 369 Serlcographis Ghifsbreghtiana, 44 i Sheds, tiffany, 584 Shelter, planting for, 158 Shirehampton, notes from, 26, 425 Shrub, a b?autiful, 41 ; notes from Fota I Island, Cork, 491 Shrubs, Chilian, hardiness of, 274 ; rabbit- proof. 304 ; flowering, 348, 516 ; fcr the sea-side, 417 ; in English gardens, 349 ; in Southwark Park, 229 ; mutilation of, 4 ; notes on, 107 ; propagating, 537 ; piuning, 40; top-dressing, 229 Silene pendula compacta, 530 ; virginica, 500, 650 Pisyrinchium grandiflorum, 214 Slipper, Larty's, showy, 120 Slipper Orchids at HoUoway, choice, 266 Sloa. the common, 607 Snapdragons, a note on, 528 SnowbaD Bush, Japmete, 301 Suowberiy, the, 304 Snowdrop, Elwes*. 214; flowers, 113; Tree, the, 588 Snowdrops, 514, 238, 254 ; abnormal lateness of, 311 ; and the season, 257 ; from Weedon, 270 Snowflake, Spring, 186; Vernal, and SquiU, 279 SociEriT.g— Alexandra Palace, 6?0 Croydon Horticultural, 569 Crystal Palace, 469 ; tpring show, 302 Horlicultiiral Benefit and Provident^ 181 Linneau, Centenary of, 423 Manchester exhibition, 497 National Auricula, 356 National Auricula and Primula, 398 National Chrysanthemum, 42, 133, 157, 231 Royal Botanic. 277, 374, 470, 594, 620 Royal Horticultural, 41, 67, 156. ISl, 20 ^ 253, 2S4, 302, 306, 349, 350, 380 397, 423, 428, 446, 471, 477, 496, 521, 568, 619 ; an- nual meeting of, 157 ; reconstruction of, 427 Soft-wooded plants, propagating, 107 Solanum crispum, 186 Soldanella minima, 366 f-oldanellas, 238, 395 Soot and Phylloxera, 422 Sophronitis violacea, 132 Sparmannia africana, 255 Sparrows as bud-destroyers, 605 ; deslroying the, 569 ; destroying fruit buds, 19) S^athoglottis puljescene, 176 Spatlum, 573 Spignel, 572 Spinach, field, 314 Spir^a Bumalda, 253 ; confusa. 369; palmata, 458 ; prunifolia, double, 492 ; Reevesiana, Spring, a late, 447 ; premature, m the south of Ireland, 54 Spring flowers, 356, 365; at Broxboiurne, 113; hardy, 482 Spruce, Albert's, and Cryptomena, 253; Pine, the, in Norway, 158 ; Fir timber. 400 Spurge, the, for covtits, 498 ; the scarlet, 13, 4S6 ; the, or "Wood Laurel, 322 Squir, Siberian, the, 113 ; white, the, 311 Squills, blup, the, 333, 368; early, from Weedon, 396 Stanhopea eburnea, 66 ; platyceras, 138, 5^4 Star Flower, spring, the, 401 Statin: prof ii.sa, 457 Steam heating, 363, 553; and overhtad radia- tion, 411 Sienorrhynchus maculatae, 177; spcciosus, 132 Stevensonia grandifolia, 11 Stigmapbyllon ciliatum, 170; propagating, 264 Stock, Brompton, double wlute, 5(4; v. scion, 33, 98 Shocks, East Lothian, 141 ; winter, 119 Stove flowering plants, fcix best, 347 StDve, plants suitable for, 275 Strawberries, alpine, planting, 342 ; barren, 473 ; early, 351 ; forced, mildew on, 545 ; forcing. 422 ; La Grosse Sucree and Vicom- lesse Hericart de Thury, 438; market, 549 ; pot, lazy, 51ii ; pot, mildew on, 463, 533; sensational, 475 Strawberry Auguste Nicaise, 517; Codding- ton Pinp, 318 ; culture, 462 ; forcing, hints on, 437; house, wireworm iu the, 230 ; La Grosse Sucre?, 356 ; Noble, 602 ; planta- tioi.s, making new, 612 ; Vicomtesse Ben- car!, de Thury, 5J7 Strawberry Tree, 320; ^flowering branch oj tk^, 320 ; red-bark-ff, (he, 320 Streams, wooded, 110 Strelitzia angusta, 279 Slyrax japonica, 549 ; japonica, propagating, 4&9 ; obassia, 549 Suffolk, notes from, 431, 479 Sulphuric acid, 497 Sumach, Venetian, 129 Sunflowers, annual, 121 Sutton and Sons, Mes.srs., 601 Sweet Bay, Willow-leaved, the, 492 Symphoricarpus raccmosu«, 304 T. Table louquet, large, 330 Tacsonia, a seedling, 575 Tacsonias, propagating, 427 THE GAKDEN INDEX [July 7, 1888. Tahiti, notes from, 1 Taxodium distichum, 110 Tecoma radicans, propagating, 537 Tecophyltea cyanccrocup, 13S Telegraph poles, wcod for, 44S Temple Hill, Cork, nolea from, 140 Tetratheca hirsuta, 45S Thinning, 544 Thomf, -1(15 Thunbergia fragrant 326; Harri-si, 161, 1S6 ; royeor n^is, t49 ; Vogeliana. 351 Thi;nder storm, the great, 019 Thunia alba and Marehalliana, 455; Btn- soiiae, 5f>3 Thyme, golden. 52P Thyrfacanthus i-utUans, 118 Tiarella cordifolia, 501 Ticis€id, the Lancn-'eavid, 7 Tiliaparvi flora, 229 Tillandsia, blue, the, 113; Lirdeni Regell- ana, 113 Timber felling, time for, 376 ; Silver Fir, durability of, 304 ; standing, selling, 207 Tobacco, Night-scented, 323 ; sweet-scented. Tomato, Tree, the, 500, 552 ; Trophy^ 483 ; what cons-titutes a good, 559 Tomatoes, 111, 500; comparative merits of. 483 ; in the open air, 313. 525 ; late grown, 56; )ipe, in winter, 3S7 ; ripening, 595; where they succeed, 38 Tower Gardens, opening of, 423 Toxicophylfeas, 57 Tree guards, 522 Tree, Lily of the Valley, 129 ; plant'ng and protecting, absurd, 178; Silver Waitle of Tasmania, 20 ; Snowdrop, the, 607 ; Straw- berry, the, 4, 43 ; stumps, destroying, 21 ; Wig, the, 129 Trees, age in, rings as evidence of, 400 ; and thmbs, flowering, 300, 320, 440, 465 ; and fibrubs for Berwickshire, 369 ; and shrubs for wet ground, 15S ; deciduous, pruning, 129 ; floweriog, 34S ; for marsh and moun- tain, lis, 109 ; ia English gardens, 34:i ; in Ireland, 256 ; influence of soil on, 208 ; newly planted, mulching, 320; notes on, 106; pollarding and disfiguring, 408; rab- bits destroying, 84, 153 ; spring-flowering, 590 ; staking newly planted, 49S, 544 Tremandra verticillata, 414 Trichomancs plitma, 78 Trichopilialepida, 495 ; suavis alba, 297 Trillium erytlirocarpum, £56 Triteleia uniflora, 401 Tiitomas in flower, 60O Trolliua, 528 Tropieolum azureum, 3S0 ; blue, the, 280; polyphyllum, 602; rhomboideum, 404 Tri'.mpa Flouer, Ihe, 348 Tulip for pot culture. 616 ; Mesicin, the, 296, 332, 372, 5J5 ; Opbir d'Or, 290 ; Per- sian, 509 ; Star, golden, 487 Tul'p Tree, a fine, 52d ; Chinese, 564 ; the, 68 Tulipa elegans, 4'0; Gesnerianft, 477, 526; Greigi, 529 ; Kolpakowskiana, 404 ; lanata, 404 ; macrospeila, 5i0 Tulips at Haarlem, 501; at Kew, 428; at Manchester, 621 ; in the parks, 452, 507 Turner Memorial prizes for 1SS8, 83 Turnips, early, 196 Tweedia casrulea, 550 Twin-leaf, 42S Tydseas in fl wcr, 218 TJ. Ulmus alata, 182 Umbrella tree, the, i'.02 Urceolina pendula, 436 Urn Flower, droopiny, the, 436 Utah, a letter from, 111 Utricularia Goweri, 230 ; montana, 458 ; ne- luuibifolia, 78 Vaccinium serpens, 478 Vanda Amesiana, 536; CaihratH, 224; Cath- carti, 174, 266; Denisoniana, 616; gigan- tea, 307; Goweras, 231, 266, 308; Parishi Marriottiana,200 ; roots dying, 512 ; teres, 24 ; teres Candida, 616 ; tricolor, 19, 3£0 ; tricolor planilabrie, 615 Vandas at Holloway, 223 ; at Lealhcrhead, 414 ; from Camberwell, 456 Vegetable garden, amateur's, the, 387 Veeretaliles, early thinning out of, 406 ; fr£&h, 585; gieen, Ecarcity of, 468; hampers of, COS; notes on, 337, 372; supply of, in Dublin, 406; too mar^y varieties of, 130; winter, scarcity of, 370, 435 Veitch Memorial piizes for 1588, 138 Veuidiums, 575 Vr-ibera, sweet scented, 300 Veronica Lyalli, 573 ; prostrata, 601 ; rcpcne, 573 ; Traversi, 41 Vettjb, Pyrenean, 530 Viburnum plicatura, 41, 301, 428, 601 Vitia pyrpnaica, 530 Vire holders in autumn, 35; management of, 474 Vine, Golden, the, 170;Gijlden, propagating, 264 ; sto If' on lawn, 393 Vines, barren, 25S, 318, 354; disea'^ed, 521 ; Lady Downe's, unsatifef act 3ry, 546 Vineries, 419 Vinery, the, for the Vine", 3S9 Viola lutea, 549 Violet, Dog's-tooth, white, 36S ; Neapolitan, runnerless, a, 508. 573; Victoria. 395 Violets from Ireland, 428 ; from Mayo, 86 ; in pots. 4'i0 ; and Lilies of the Valley, 86 ; Marie Louise, in pots, 116 ; Parma, 366, 401, 451 ; Parma and Neapolitan, 281 Vitis heterophjlla variegata, 540 Vriesia brachyfetachys, 276 Vriesias, 148 W. Wahlenbergia gtaminifolia, 556 Wallflower, alpine, 477; Btdfont Yellow, 530 ; double \ ellow, old, 368 Wallflowers at Brighton, 529 ; dwarf, 573 Walnut, Caucasian, the, 82 ; branch and lenf- less fa-ig of, 82 ; yotmg k'^f oj\ 82; cut- leaved, the, 228 Wasps. 543, 595 Water Lily, canary-coloured, 408, 428 Wax Flowers, the, 408 Weather, an acceptable change in the, 138 Weed, a noxious, 63 Weeds, 434 Weevil, brown, the, 521 Wfcigela Abel Carriere, 601 Wellingtonia gigantea, 607 Wild flowers in Devonshire, 425 ; in K'.nt, 571 Wild garden, teautiful, a, 255 Windflowt r, alpine, sulphur-coloured, the, 271, 500 ; Apfnnine, 401 ; Apennine, in thu house, 366 ; blue winter 402 ; i-carlet, tbr, 326, 3S0 ; Snowdrop, 477 ; Wood, varieties of the, 452 Winter Floirci , the. 393 Winter flowers, -^6 Wintersweet, 284 Wireworm in the compost-yard, 595 ; in the Strawberry house, 595 Wireworms, destroying, 163 Wistaria sinensis, 540 ; sinensis alba, 607 ; white-flowered, 590 Wistarias, propagating, 510 Witch Hiztl, Japanese, 83 Witsenia corymbosa, 510 Wood, preserving, 84 Wormia Burbidgei, 505 YiUoio Wood, Avioor Vi Iky, the, 444 Yew, Chilian, the, 171 I'itcca, a, in Llooin, 202 ; fil''tn(ntosa, 333 Yucca", 487 Z. Zephyr Flower, double, the, 201 Zephyr Flowers, 10 Zephyranthes carinata, 90 ; Treaties, 11 white, a, 404 Zygopetalum Mackayi, 83 ; rostratum, 206 Zygopetalume, 307 Ip^^Q^^"^ July 7, 1888.] THE GAEDEN INDEX XI ^^^ COLOURED PLATES. AMARYLLIS BELLADONNA AZALEA DEUTSCHE PERLE BEGONIAS, TWO CARNATION APRICOT „ COMTESSE DE PARIS CATASETUM BUNGEROTHI CLERODENDRON NUTANS EUPHORBIA JACQUINI^FLORA ... GESNERA LONGIFLORA HIBISCUS ROSA SINENSIS FULGENS IRIS HISTRIO, I. ROSENBACH'ANA, I PAKOWSKIANA IRIS PALLIDA MARICA C^RULEA PER ICA, KOL. PAGE 2G8 4G0 14G 244 122 388 412 486 340 90 C58 32 58 NARCISSUS BR0US30NETI... NYMPH,EA MARLIACEA ... ODONTOGLOSSUM HARRYANUM . OXERA PULCHELLA PASSIFLORA WATSONIANA PLUMBAGO CAPENSIS AND P. CAPENSIS ALBA RICHARDIA .ETHIOPICA ROSE EDITH GIFFORD ROSE MADAME DE WATTEVILLE STANHOPE A PLATYCERAS ., SriGMAPHYLLON CILIATUM URCEOLINA PENDULA ZEPHYRANIHES ATAMASCO AGE CIO 292 7G nio 104 364 584 31G 220 531 170 43G 10 The Gaedbn.J [July 7, 1888. Jan. 7, 1888.] v^IsiKC THE GARDEN. VOL. XXXIII. NOTES FROM TAHITI. At 4 a.m. we started, and a charming drive we had in the bright moonlight, almost as clear as day. The scenery and the mountains in the background are beautiful by sunlight, but I think even prettier by moonlight, and we had the advantage of delightfully cool weather. Day began to break when just beyond Punavia, and it was beautiful to see the rays of the sun gradually give a warmer light to all the moun- tain tops, and slowly descend the sides till the tops of the Cocoa-nuts and Bananas were reached .... Our party being made up, next morning we began our walk. Four stalwart natives accompanied us to carry provisions, bedding, itc , which were wrapped in huge bundles, and covered with the Paumota mats. Each native carried two, one at each end of a pole which they slung on their shoulders, and it was as much as I could do to lift them on to mine, but they took them up and went off with them at a comfortable amble. They went much faster than we, and how they managed to get over the stones and up and down the steep places, I cannot make out. I was shown places where they climbed for Feeiia on the almost per- pendicular sides of the mountain, and a long way up. The load that they sometimes bring down weighs over 400 lbs. It would be bad enough and dangerous enough without any- thing, but with such a load it is simply marvel- lous .... The first part of our journey was easy enough till we got to about the fourth or fifth river. One counts by rivers, that is, how many times you cross it. Of course, the stream winds about round the foot of the mountains, and you may guess how much when I tell you that we had to cross it ninety-eight times be- fore we began the ascent to the lake. Between each river we had to go through a kind of cane- brake of the native Ginger, a long kind of reed, 10 feet to 12 feet high, with large, pointed aro- matic leaves. These grew very close together, and the natives, with heavy knives, cut a way through. It was like going through a tunnel, and the walking was troublesome and painful, as it was over loose round stones and small rocks, and one was always slipping. The first half-hour was through a lovely wood, the usual thing — Bananas, Oranges, Vines, and Hibiscus. I never saw anything like the huge Hart's-tongue Ferns growing on the trees ; for instance, there was a piece of tree broken oft', and at the top of this a perfect round crown of these Perns of a lovely delicate green. I saw plenty of these and other kinds of Ferns, Mosses on the trees, and so on. The mountains were nothing much here, but about the 15th river the gorge began to narrow, and it was truly lovely. I will de- scribe it here, as it is much the same all the way, only varied by sometimes one side being perpendicular, and sometimes the two sides approaching close to each other, not leaving much daylight, and at least 2000 feet high. Imagine these covered with all the different trees, Feeiis, Hibiscus or Bourao, Guavas, ifcc. , right up to the top, and coming sheer down to the streani at the bottom. The river had a stony bottom, the water clear and cold, and there is not a yard of it on the level, so it came along, tumbling, roaring, rushing in splendid style. Every now and then there was a cascade, down which it fell in grand form, and up which we liad to go when fishing, jumping from rock to rock. Of course, we did not mind the wetting, as we were wet all day. Sometimes one saw an old tree growing out of the side right across the stream, its trunk covered with all kinds of the moat delicate Ferns, creeping and otherwise — larger sorts as well — and cushions of luxuriant Mosses ; while on the other side would be the enormous fronds of a huge Fern, 10 feet to 12 feet long, hanging over the water, backed by the splendid, shining dark green leaf of the wild Taro, each leaf broad and big enough for a table. It was indeed a grand sight, and the clear, fresh, cool air was so exhilarating. After lunching, we fished up to the 16th river, our first camping ground. We used a small black fly ; our rods Bamboo, with a string for line and a bit of gut at the end — primitive, but eflective, for we soon had a nice string of fisli. They call them trout, but the shape is that of a perch, dark-scaled with gilt edges at the top, then grey and white below. They are more vigorous than perch, and one had to be very quick to catch them. ... A native woman accompanied the party, who was called " Lady Gordon ;" having been told a story in which a person of that name figured, she appropriated it! The natives soon ran up our "Palace Hotel,'' a lean-to covered in at the back and sides with the huge leaves of the Feeii and the Taro and numberless pieces of the native Ginger, open to the river in front, and about 25 feet by 10 feet. They had everything to hand, fastening every pole with the bark of Hibiscus, which is as strong and as pliant as rope. Our beds were quantities of the dried leaves of the Ginger, soft and with an aromatic smell ; on these were spread the Paumota mats, and we had plenty of rugs and pillows. After supper, of fresh fish of several kinds (one being eel, a huge ugly-looking creature as long and tliick as my arm) and chicken, we had c«/e au " lait dii, thjre" (rum), and were going to have a game of casino, when my native announced that he wa.s going to say prayers. He knelt on his hands and knees, and made a long extempore prayer. He had said grace, too, before our meal. Next day we fished up to the 00th river, and the rain, which continued steadily, almost persuaded us to give up the object of our little trip, which was to see the lake, but on and up we went, for we soon began to ascend, and though still in the dark tunnel of Ginger plants, we had to pull ourselves up boulders of rock by our hands. They rose up before us almost perpendicularly ; then we got amongst the Feeii, &c., the path still being very steep. When about a third of the way, the path turned to the right and zigzagged along the face of the mountain, and in no place was it more than a foot wide, often less. On our left, the steep mountain; on our right, a sheer precipice of some COO feet ; trees, of course, hid its depth, but we felt it was there. The coining down might be dangerous, as the path was clayey and THE GARDEN. [Jan. 7, 1888. rather slippery from the rain. Soon wo came to a flat place, where in old times the natives had built a rude fort against the French, and had killed everyone while storming it, and no wonder. Some way further on we came to, in the mountain, an enormous chasm, said to be fathomless, with native legends of its own. Up and on we went, and then descended a little way to the shore of the lake, which is about three-quarters of a mile across and almost round, with mountains on all sides running sheer into it. There were plenty of ducks, and I being desirous to shoot some, the natives cut down some Feeii trees (oddly enough, Bananas will not float), fastened tliem together by running sticks through, and improvised a raft or cata- maran. When I got on it I was nearly sub- merged, and while wondering if Taia, my native, would sink it, to my surprise, he rolled his shirt round his head and swam behind, pushing me along slowly. My hopes were disappointed ; the birds were so high, and not being the Guava season, there were no ronpis or wood pigeons. When safe in our shelter that night, we heard a roaring and smashing and crashing of trees, for the little rain we had had after such a dry season had detached a huge rock, which came bounding down the mountain, clearing all before it. That night the natives begged for a story ; they are, like children, fond of ghosts and fairy tales. C. A. P. T Tahiti. MAEKET GARDEN NOTES. The late frosts have enabled the owners of market gardens to get the ground manured, and now that there is the probability of milder weather, every preparation will be made to catch the first favourable opportunity of seed-sowing, as a good deal of the success in market-growing depends on a rapid rotation of crops. Every day gained in the early part of the season in getting the first crop cleared off is worth a week at the latter part of the season when growth is nearly at a stand- still. The first crop that calls for attention is Broad Beans. — These are grown in large quan- tities as a field crop, and are cleared off in time to get winter Broccoli, greens, or Tarnips put in, and being hardy the earlier they can be got in the better. They are not much grown as a late crop, as, after runner and dwarf Beans become plentiful, there is little demand for them. A good breadth sown in January and another in February generally complete the sowing of this crop in market gardens, the varieties used being Longpod for the first sow- ing and Windsor for the second. Taylor's Windsor is a great favourite in this locality. Peas. — Both early and late varieties are exten- sively grown ; in fact, whenever procurable they invariably sell well, but the largest quantities sown are of the early kinds, and growers take the first opportunity of getting the seed sown after the new year opens. Varieties of medium height and of well-known excellence are preferred by market gardeners. Novelties they grow for trial in their own private garden, but do not trust to them for main crops until they have proved them. Eaely Potatoes.— Although Potatoes are so largely grown, 1 doubt if any crop is more certain or remunerative than the early kinds. On the south coast ihe soil is specially adapted for promoting early growth, being light and well c^rained, and, in addition to liberal manuring, growers make a point of thoroughly pulverising the soil by ploughing deeply two or three timps, as in this way the growth ii not only much accelerated, but the tubers turn out clean and good, and the land is in good condition for the next crop. Next to Ashleaf Kidneys, that are not yet surpassed for very early crops, there is no variety so popular as Beauty of Hebron, that grows to a large size very early in the season, and in this dry soil is always of good quality. Forcing Rhubarb is largely carried on, the large crowns being covered with old casks or barrels, and then enveloped with stable manure, which growers get in quantity from town stables at a cheap rate. A good depth is spread over the remaining portion of the old crowns, and under the friendly shelter of the litter the stalks push up very strongly to suc- ceed those forced in tubs. Sowing of Tomatoes, Cucumbers, Radishes, Let- tuces, and other crops under glass is now claiming attention, and Mustard and Cress is used for filling up any heated pits or frames, as it invariably sells well very early in the season. The roots of Mint are being put under glass in quantity for supplying green tops, that sell readily before the outdoor crops are fit for gathering. Gosport. J. G. Trees and Shrubs. W. GOLDHING. THE EVERGREEN OLEASTERS. (iL^AGNUS.) Those who have seen the evergreen kinds of Elreagnus in the perfection of their winter beauty will agree with me in considering them among the finest of all evergreen shrubs. They are so handsome and create such a remarkable aspect in the garden in mid-winter, that one wonders why it is that they are not grown in sufficient numbers in nurseries to be bought as cheaply as other Evergreens. In the first tree and shrub catalogue I refer to, two of these Oleasters, E. pungens variegata and E. reflexa variegata, are placed in the list of shrubs for covering walls, and in other catalogues none of the evergreen Oleasters are mentioned. This arises from a false impression that the Japanese Oleasters are tender, whereas they are un- doubtedly as hardy as common Laurels. With the exception of the Holly, there are perhaps no handsomer evergreen shrubs than Elreagnus glabra, E. macrophylla, and E. pungens, and their variegated forms, and in proof of this any- one can see for themselves how fine they are at Kew, Battersea Park, Victoria Park, Bath, and various other public gardens I could mention where there exist old specimens that have withstood the most severe winters for many j'ears. The growth of all the Oleasters is different from that of most other Evergreens, beiug very dense, with drooping, slender shoots, which in time form huge globular, spreading ma.^ses, so that Oleasters are adapted for planting as isolated .specimens on lawns. The foliage of most of them is as large as that of the common Bay, leathery in texture, deep green above, and covered with silvery or brown scales beneath. The young shoots, covered with a coating of brown scales, have a most picturesque appear- ance when protruding from the mass of old branches. The names of the Elseagnuses are evidently much confused, for there are several names for the same kind, and what is seen labelled in one place under a certain name is found to be named differently elsewhere. The nomenclature of the collection at Kew does not appear to be uniform, but we must take it as being correct. The finest evergreen Oleaster at Kew is that labelled E. glabra, a .Japanese species. There is one huge bush of it a mass of luxuriant green. The variegated form of it (E. glabra variegafa) has its leathery leaves broadly margined with pale yellow, rendering it very ornamental. E. reflexa has its leaves of an unusually deep green, and produces the characteristic long brown shoots rather more numerously than the other ff)rms. E. latifolia forms one of the finest s])ecimens. E. pungens and its variegated form arc both hand- some, as well as another called E. Simoni, a name given by Carriere to a species said to come from China. E. macrophylla is another good species, so that altogether there are six distinct green-leaved kinds, irrespective of the variegated forms, of which there are several ; but of all these only about three or four kinds (and these are not cheap) are obtainable at nurseries. If there was a demand for evergreen Oleasters, no doubt nurserymen would soon work up stocks, but so long as they are allowed to remain in obscurity the public cannot be expected to know them and plant them. Judging by the luxuriant growth of all the Oleasters at Kew, I imagine that a poor sandy soil, with a porous layer of gravel beneath, suits them. In how many places does such a soil exist where these Oleasters would flourish ? But I have said enough to show that a valuable class of evergreen shrubs suflers neglect simply from the want of being better known. A group of, say, about five evergreen Oleasters (green and variegated) on a lawn, with two or three conical Conifers, such as the Knap Hill Cypress or Libocedrus decurrens, rising out of the mass, would make an uncommonly fine feature in winter by the contrast of habit alone. The Californian Bayberry (Myrica cali- f ornica) is one of the many valuable hardy shrubs that have not yet come into general cultivation, though it possesses all the qualities of a first-rate Evergreen. It is dense in growth, making when fully grown a compact rounded bush, having foliage reminding one in colour and texture of that of the common Bay. The leaves are narrow and much longer than those of the common Sweet Gale (M. Gale), and, like that shrub, the leaves when bruised have an aromatic odour. In the dry sandy soil at Kew it grows freely and does not feel the drought in hot summers. Just now it is most conspicuous, for while its neighbours, M. Gale and M. cerifera (the Wax Myrtle), are bare of leaf or nearly so, it is a luxuriant mass of green. It this and other dis- tinct-looking Evergreers were taken in hand by nur- serymen, how much more variety one could plant in shrubberies, and how much more interesting they would be in winter. — W. G. The Slezereon (Daphne Mezereum). — This modest yet fragrant and beautiful harbinger of spring was one of the two open-air shrubs to be found in bloom at Kew on New Year's Day, its com- panion being the sturdy yellow Jasmine, which never fails to develop its golden blossoms, even in the severest of winter weather. The Mczereon is peculiarly the favourite of the cottage garden, for it is oftener to be found there than in large places ; yet how delightful it is to meet with it in bloom in a walk round a cheerless garden on a January day. Every garden should have its Mezereon, not in an out-of-the-way place, as it is generally found, but within sight of the window and close to the path, where its cheery blossom and delicious fragrance can be enjoyed. The Mezereon, though it cannot be called fastidious, will not thrive well every- where. It likes a deep moist soil, and particularly resents being overshadowed by any other growth, and it in suitable soil it will grow into a bush 5 feet or 6 feet high. There are several sorts differ- ing more or less widely from each other. The common kind has deep pink flowers, succeeded by deep red berries. The white (Sore-albo) has yellow fruits, and besides these there is a dark-coloured variety called rubra ; another, with rather larger flowers, called grandiflora; and another, named autumnalis, which, besides being very different in growth, flowers during the autumn. — W. G. Parasol de St. Julian. — This name occurs in the Kew arboretum ou the labels of two Poplars, viz., Populus tremula, the Aspen, and P. tremuloides, American Aspen. Can anyone tell me to which tree this name properly belongs, and also give any clue to its origin, or where it is most commonly used ? I can- not find any trace of it in Miller's "Dictionary of English Names of Plants." — W. Goldrixg, Keic. Jan. 7, 1888.] THE GARDEN. UPRIGHT CYPRESS. (CDPRESSUS STRICTA.) Broadlands, Romsey, in many of its features, and more particularly in regard to the grouping of trees in the pleasure grounds and park, shows a strong resemblance to Hackwood Park, Basingstoke, and as "Capability" Brown is said to have been the landscape gardener at both places, the resemblance is at once ex- plained, though in contour of ground and general surroundings no two places could be less alike. Supposing — indeed, I think there is and, as the guess happened to be correct, I complimented him on it. In reply, he said : " I think that I could guess almost as correctly the work of several other landscape gardeners." Such .an attainment shows in a marvellous manner how, by the application of one's mind to any given suliject, that subject is mastered, and instead of difficult it becomes natural. As remarked in a former note, the ground formation of the park is somewhat flat, but as a set-off the distant woods on the higher ground outside the limits of the park are seen to The Upright Cypress at Broadlands, Konisey, Hants. scarcely room for supposition — that the same artist laid out the two places, it is but a proof of what is constantly occurring in every-day life, namely, that once a man has become thoroughly master of his work, difticulties of totally different ground formations, such as these display, are no barrier to the successful accomplishment of his object. An experienced landscape gardener — still living — when on a visit to this place a few years since noticed certain clumps of trees in the park, and re- marked : "I see you have had Mr. (nam- ing a well-known landscape artist) down here ; greater perfection, and, in fact to a stranger, seem like a continuation of the park. This is an innocent piece of deception that I doubt not the landscape artist had in his mind's ej'e when laying out the place, for, look which ever way one Will, the clumps of trees are so placed that not a bit of distant scenery is blocked or inter- cepted. Another very striking feature is the absence — evidently intentional — in the park planting of trees other than those of a massive description. Oaks, Elms, Beech, Planes, Horse and Spanish Chestnuts, and the .spiral Lombardy Poplars being the deciduous giants ; many are of exceptionally large dimensions. The evergreen giants consist of Cedars of Lebanon, which, though cruel snowstorms have smashed many of them terribly, are none the less effective by reason of their maimed condition. Scotch and Spruce Fir, Box, and Yew vie with each other as to size and vigour. Add to the large size of trees, expanse of ground, and the grouping of the trees at proportionate distances, then the reader can realise — faintly, I grant — a piece of as perfect landscape planting as there is any- where _ to be seen. In the pleasure grounds adjoining the mansion, and which are of large extent, attempts have here and there been made to modernise the scenery by planting more recently introduced trees, particularly Conifers, but the old stagers, such as the one seen in the accompanying illustration, "hold the field" for beauty. I should imagine that this is the finest upright Cypres.^ in the country. It is over 40 feet in height, the trunk is 7 feet in girth, and the circumference of branches is 45 feet, and the tree is still growing. There are other Cypresses that very nearly approach this one in dimensions, and of handsome Yews, Tree Box, Cedars — C. Libani and C. atlantica— there is a large _ number. On the low-lying ground near the river are many handsome Firs and ever- green Oaks and an immense grey Poplar (Populus canescens). I did not take the measure- ment, but the height could not be less than 100 feet, nor the girth of trunk less than 16 feet or 18 feet. The chalky subsoil is not favour- able to the growth of many of our best Conifers. Abies Douglasi, A. Nordmanniana, Picea Pin- sapo, and the Deodar Cedar (Cedrus Deodara) are exceptions, as these all promise to make fine trees. One is almost tempted to say, more is the pity, because there being such a wealth of old-fashioned trees and shrubs at Broadlands, one is jealous lest the present passion for coni- ferous trees should end in their being planted without regard to the lines of beauty that the original designer has so successfully accom- plished. W. WiLDSMITH. Eedcfidd. Bobinias. — With the exception of the dense- headed Robinia Bessoniana, which presents such a marked feature as a decorative street tree, few of the large Acacias have become favourites in gardens. Big Acacia trees have at the best a gaunt, ragged look, unless occasionally beheaded and induced to break afresh. What with falling flowers, stems, and leaves, the trees are very untidy, whilst only loosely-grown heads flower freely. For these reason's few Acacias are planted now, except of the kind named above. That, howevtr, needs hard pruning every two or three years, as otherwise the heads become thin and brittle. — A. D. Lime trees dying'.— Would any of the readers of The Garden kindly advise as to the best time to prune Lime trees I I pruned some in January last, and others I cut in in August. Of those that were pruned in the early part of the year ail are more or less dying back to the main trunk. In all respects, except in the case of the branches that have been pruned, the trees are quite healthy. Those, again, which were cut in whilst in full leaf last August show no signs of dying back. I may mention that some of the large branches were sawn off those trees that were pruned during the early part of the year. I remember when a boy some Limes being planted near to where I then lived, and they were cut in every year when in full leaf, and I never remember seeing the trees suffer in the least. Our soil is chiefly gravel. — W. C, Iljord. Crolden Scotch Fir.— This variety of our own native Fir differs from the common type in being far less vigorous (for it forms a low-growing, com- pact specimen), and also in the foliage during the winter season becoming of quite a golden hue, which changes to a pale green in the summer. For lawns of limited extent, or as an isolated specimen THE GARDEN. in a small garden, it is well suited, as from its slow, compact habit of growth there is no danger of the bounds allotted to it being exceeded. Though variegated Conifers, as a rule, are at the best sickly- looking, those in which the foliage is altogether suffused with a yellowish tint (as this Fir is) afford a pleasing variety to the otherwise sombre hue of many of them. Its origin I am unaware of, but it was most probably raised as a seedling from the type.— T. Cretan Maple (Acer creticum).— This tree is more often seen as a shrub than a fully-developed specimen, like the one at Syon House, Isleworth. These famous gardens are noted for their richness in noble trees, representing many rare kinds, and an interesting feature is the Cretan Maple near the large conservatory. It is in a shady retreat, a posi- tion in which it delights, and shows a dense spread- ing head, formed by the interlacing of innumerable t^'iggy branches, now covered with the light brown hardly converging keys or wings, that at a distance have the appearance of shrivelled leaves. It does not grow very rapidly, generally attaining a height of about 30 feet; and the Syon House specimen is, I should think, about 20 feet— perhaps not so much. It is sub-evergreen and a native of Crete and the Grecian Archipelago. — E. C. The white Kerria (Rhodotypos kerrioides).— In making a selection of a few good hardy flowering shrubs this Rhodotypos should be included, for the large white blossoms are borne in great profusion, and, irrespective of this, it is a very ornamental shrub, and also quite hardy. It bears a great resemblance to the old Japanese Kerria, the double form of which is so frequently met with in gardens, and so free-flowering when favourably situated. The Rhodotypos is of quick growth, and by no means particular as to soil or .situation. It has been grown to a limited extent in this country for some years, but does not appear to have become very popular. In Japan it is very frequently met with. The Rose-leaved Bramble (Rubusrosiefolius). —The double-flowered form of this Bramble will produce its white blossoms during the autumn and winter months, and on this account it is especially valuable where flowers at this season are in demand. It is a small and erect-growing species, that soon forms a rather dense bush by reason of the nume- rous shoots that are produced from the base. It is easily propagated in the spring from cuttings of the young shoots, that are readily obtained from plants that have done flowering, and kept a little while rather warmer than usual. During the sum- mer the leaves are somewhat liable to be attacked by red spider, and on that account a good syringing should be frequently given. According to a recent number of the Botanical Maynzine, this Bramble is a native of the Himalayas, Burmah, and .Java, but is now widely spread over many parts of the globe. The fruits, which much resemble those of the Rasp- berry, are sold in some of the West Indian Islands under the name of Framboisier. From the same authority we learn that the double-flowered form was fir.st brought from Penang to this country, and it is now cultivated in Japan as a garden shrub.— The hardiest Laurel.— Several years ago I wa3 advi.sed to plant the Colchic Laurel where- ever any blanks occurred among the great num- ber of Laurels grown here, principally for game cover. It was said to be much the hardiest of the two, and such has certainly proved to be the case. In one instance a large island was planted principally with this Colcliic Laurel, and the plants have done remarkably well. Last winter many of the common Laurels hereabouts were nearly killed by frosts, those near the lake in which the island is situated appearing, notably after an exceptionally severe March frost, as if scorched by lire ; not so those on the island. They were browned somewhat, but soon recovered from this, and have continued to grow vigorously, while many of the common Laurels had to be out down to the ground. This Colchic Laurel also possesses another good quality, viz., it is distasteful to rabbits [Jan. 7/188S. I do not assert that rabbits will not touch it, but I can truthfully say they have not materially injured any of the young plants dotted among the common laurels where blanks occur, whereas the latter are alreadylvery badly barked. The Laurel under notice is here of a rather more erect growth than the com- moner kind, the leaves also being narrower. It is supplied at about the same price, and should there- fore receive the preference, especially in cold districts or where rabbits are numerous. — W. I., in Field. MUTILATION OF SHRUBS. The timely article that appeared on this subject in The Garden (p. (114) did not present an exag- gerated picture, but was truthfully drawn and to the point. Attention has been called to the bar- baric custom of so-called shrub-pruning before, but it seems a rule, that undergoes no variation, to regularly lop in the autumn of the year the shrubs to a stated height, and even this bold surgery is very clumsily performed. Along the Embankment gardens there are far too many things, so that we can understand that to prevent undue overcrowding restriction is essential, but why not adopt a wiser and more rational course by lifting those plants where they are placed too thickly, so as to give the others free space for the development of their branches ? Three or four gnarled spurred stems, unsightly, unhealthy, and distorted, represent some of the unfortunate shrubs, more like the pictures of the Japanese monstrosities than those in a garden in the centre of the metropolis. No plant when pruned so regu- larly and so severely can possibly display the beauty it is capable of when reasonably dealt with. Of course, it is necessary to cut in a little, as in the case of almost every plant, especially shrubs and trees, but to prune as Pear trees are frequently done is labour wasted and unnecessary destruction. It is not, however, only the bold cutting back that complaint should be made, but also of the practice of digging up the soil amongst the plants, so as to obtain, I suppose, a certain amount of neatness and order. Every gardener knows, or ought to know, that to dig up with a spade between the shrubs destroys a number of the roots, and harm is inflicted on the plants. This hurtful practice of digging the ground between shrubs is not only seen in the gardens along the Embankment, but in many a small plot, and, I am afraid, also in places where other things are, as a rule, well cultivated. The miserable condition of the shrubs in suburban gar- dens may be traced, not to the smoke, bad soil, or anything of that kind, but to this annual cutting and to disturbance of the ground. A jobbing gardener is called in and told "to make the place tidy for the winter," and dreadful is the injury inflicted. I have no wish to quarrel with the real jobbing gar- dener, as there are many men who thoroughly under- stand their work, but there are also many that have never been brought up in the profession, and there- fore know nothing of gardening. It is the fault either of the master or the man. E. C. The Strawberry tree (Benthamia fragifera). — It is much to be regretted that this evergreen shrub is not hardy enough to stand the winter in the open air except in Devonshire. Some fruits now before me, gathered from a large plant grow- ing in a beautiful garden in the south of Devon, each measure '.\^ inches in circumference. The fruit is so freely produced every year that a suf- ficient quantity is obtained for preserving. The position of the garden is in one of those beautiful valleys for which Devonshire is so well known. In this garden the Benthamia and several other plants that require the protection of a greenhouse in winter in other parts of the country thrive in the most .'satisfactory manner without giving any trouble. Here, in Somerset, the Benthamia grows trained as a creeper on a wall facing east, and is not often injured in winter, while the fruit ripens in favourable summers. The fruit is, however, much smaller than that from the Devonshire plant] which is 20 feet high, with a proportionate spread of branches. I have an idea that this plant would do fairly well in some sheltered gardens near the sea on the south coast. I may mention that we grew it here for several years in an un- heated house, but it did not prodiice any fruit. It was not until I planted it against an open wall that it fruited, and this seems to show that it does not like the confinement of a glass struc- ture.— J. C. C, in Field. NEW PLANTS OF 1887. The public taste for Orchids of all classes is fully illustrated by the great quantity of novelties which have made their appearance during 1887. New Orchids are very numerous both as garden hybrids and as imported species and varieties. Among the varieties produced by the skill of the hybridiser, the most interesting is, no doubt, Zygo- petalum Veitchi, which is the result of a cross be- tween Z. crinitum and Colax jugosus. The flowers partake of the characters of Zygopetalum, but are remarkable for the large smooth lip, which, like that of Colax jugosus, is beautifully spotted with rich violet on a whitish ground, while the petals are brownish, dashed with yellow. Next in importance we have Phalaenopsis Harrietts?, which is an interest- ing and likewise a beautiful variety, the result of a cross between P. grandiflora and P. violacea. The flowers, about half the size of those of the first-men- tioned species, are of neat and compact form ; the sepals and petals, being of nearly equal size, make uji a bloom of almost circular shape, the colour being greenish white, with the exception of the basal half, which is very bright and forms a pleas- ing contrast ; the whole flower is besides freckled and suffused with rosy crimson. In Cypripe- diums, which have been produced somewhat plenti- fully, the most distinct and handsome is C. super- ciliare, which somewhat reminds one of C. super- biens, of which it is a variety; its splendid broad foliage is, like that of this species, distinctly tessel- lated; the flowers, which are magnificent and of bold form, have a reddish brown lip ; the dorsal sepal, white, with green and purple veins, is very large ; the petals and sepals, dull-coloured, have their margins copiously furnished with conspicuous warts of a deep crimson colour. In C. orphanum we have, as its name implies, a produce of unknown parentage. It is a beautiful hybrid, with flowers of medium size, but remarkable for their particularly bright colours, especially that of the lip, which is rounded and well-proportioned, and of a bright rosy purple hue. The dorsal sepal, broad, white, veined with green in the centre, and purplish to- wards the sides, is rendered very conspicuous by the bold band of a deep chocolate colour, which runs down the centre and forms a splendid contrast to the white of the margin. The petals, which are peculiarly wavy and about 2 inches long, hairy at the base, are also ornamented with chocolate- coloured bands down the centre. Cypripedium leuoorrhodum is aprettyhybridbetweenC.Roezliand C. Schlimi album. The lateral petals are straight and pinkish white, as also the lip in its anterior portion ; the dorsal sepal is white, slightly stained with purple and marked with ascending green lines. The Calanthes Halli and Sanguinaria are also two excellent acquisitions, the former being the result of a cross between C. Veitchi and C. vestita luteo- oculata. Its pure white flowers, having no blotch in the centre of the lip, are closely set on a compara- tively short spike. C. Sanguinaria is quite dif- ferent from the one just described, as it is dis- tinguished by the intense rich crimson colour of its very large flowers, whose sepals and petals are re- volute. The lip is boldly lobed, and at its base the colours deepen sensibly, rendering the plant very attractive; as it is by far the darkest variety yet ob- tained, it makes a grand contrast when grown among such kinds as the ivory-white C. nivea, the rose- coloured C. Veitchi, the white C. luteo-oculata, C. Regnieri, and other pale-coloured forms. Some very good new species of Orchids have also been brought out during this year, the most striking being Cata- setum Bungerothi, with pure white flowers of massive character and waxy substance, produced from ten to fifteen on a spike ; the narrow sepals are pointed and pure white ; the two petals, equally white, are erect and of a peculiar shape, Jan. 7, 1888.] THE GARDEN. ■forming a sort of hood, the inner edges being close to one another. The most particular organ is the lip, which is very large and spoon-shaped, somewhat resembling that of certain AngriEcums ; its margins are finely serrated, its glistening white column being very conspicuous. The flower-spikes are produced .generally in pairs from the base of the pseudo-bulbs, which are of a glaucous colour, and furnished with foliage of the same colour. The perfume given off by the flowers reminds one strongly of aniseed, and is delicious. Its flowering season is from July to September. Dendrobium Stratiotes is an extremely interesting and thoroughly distinct species, with growth somewhat similar to that of J), bigibbum and D. superbiens. The flowers, which, like those of these species, are also produced at the extremity of the old bulbs, measure about 2 inches across and are unlike those of any other of the genus. The sepals, which are about IJ inches long, erect, and twisted, are dull yellow, the petals very ■narrow, white ; and the lip, peculiarly trilobed, is white and very prettily pencilled and striped with light purple. By their position, these flowers much more resemble those of certain IJarkerias than those of Dendrobiums. In Odontoglossum Harryanum we have a really beautiful species with long, broad , petals and sepals, undulated at the margins, heavily blotched with dark brown ; the lip is very large, ex- panded, spoon-shaped, yellow in the centre, richly veined with purple at the sides, and pure white at the upper part. The flowers in general expression may be likened to those of a MaxUlaria, and are of a rich and decided colouring. Odontoglossum Sohroe- derianum is another very distinct South American species, with (lowers about 2.V inches in diameter, somewhat resembling, though much larger than those of 0. liuve ; petals and sepals of a yellowish green, heavily spotted and blotched with dark 'brown. The long, broad lip, lijac-purple at the base, contracted in the middle, shows the peculiar marking also observed in 0. la^ve or Weltoni, and which consists in a broad band of purple colour cut- ting transversely the white ground, and rendering the flower very showy. Its dwarf grovrth, as also the form of its pseudo-bulbs, somewhat remind one of 0. hastilabium, but the flowers are produced in much shorter racemes. Cypripedium prfestans is an exceedingly beautiful species introduced from New Guinea, possessing to a certain degree the character of C. ,Stonei. The flowers are disposed in Ave or six on tall scapes, and are most attractively colo\ired ; the dorsal sepal is regularly striped with bands of . maroon on a light ground ; the petals, 4 inches to 5 inches long, are twisted, drooping, of a greenish colour at the base, and marked on their margins with narrow spots and warts of the same colour. In Cypripedium Wallisi, a native of Ecuador, we have a very handsome plant belonging to the caudatum section ; the sepals are light canary-yel- . low ; petals very long, of a little darker colour ; pouch large, fawn colour outside, spotted inside with dull crimson ; the mouth of the pouch is milk- white with a continuous border of crimson. Besides the above-described species and va- rieties which are the most noteworthy among the Orchid productions of 1887, there are also Lycaste plana Measuresiana, a beautiful variety with a white lip, spotted with crimson, and petals and sepals nut brown colour; Odontoglossum crispum leopardi- num, a beautifully spotted variety, with flowers large and of good substance ; 0. crispum, Thomp- son's variety, is a magnificent flower, nearly 5 inches across and of stout substance, white ground colour and bold spots of chocolate-brown ; Cypripedium Boxalli atratum, whose flowers have the waxy ap- pearance noticed in those of C. villosum, and a green dorsal sepal speckled with black-brown and a white upper margin. La;lia anceps Sanderiana has pure white petals and sepals, contrasting beautifully with the purple colour of the lip which is stained with yellow at the base; Cattleya Schrtederae is dis- tinguished from C. Trianas by the extraordinary curling of its lip and of its petals and by its exqui- site perfume ; Cattleya labiata leucoph^a, Saccola- bium Heathi, apparently a white Blumei majus ; Aerides expansum Leoni ; Cattleya Mendeli lim- bata ; Cattleya Mossiic, Darnell's variety ; Cielogy ne Dayana, in the way of the weU-known C. Massan- geana, but different in colour,"although similar in habit ; MasdevaDia luteo-oculata, a distinct variety of M. Harryana ; Oncidium Brunleesianum, Bar- keria Vanneriana, and many other varieties more or less distinct. We notice with great satisfaction that plants used for the decoration of the out-of-doors garden have this year received far more attention than they had for some years past ; and it is a very long time since so many good novelties in plants of that class have been produced during one season. Hardy flowering plants, coming within the reach of all, deserve special acknowledgment, and the im- provements noticed in P:eonies, Iris of the Ka^mp- feri section, and other equally decorative kinds afford us the greatest pleasure. Of all the hardy flowering plants the Rose is the greatest favourite, and to the list, already very numerous, of that beautiful genus have this year been added four good varieties, the most striking of which, Puritan, produces flowers of extraordinary lasting qualities, as was fully illustrated by the flowers of it which were exhibited at Kensington on April 12 : these were large, well built, pure white, and of exquisite form, petals roiind and of good substance, foliage stout and of a metallic green colour. Those which were shown on that occasion left New York on April 2, and were packed, some in damp cotton wool, and some with their stems in water, in an air- tight tin box. They all were remarkably fresh after the long journey to which they had been subjected. Rose Cleopatra is one of Mr. Bennett's grandest ac- quisitions and has splendid blooms of large size and good substance ; they are also of beautiful form and deliciously fragrant. The petals are exquisitely arranged and of a delicate salmon-pink colour, deepening towards the centre of the flower. In Rose Lady Alice we have a fixed sport from R. Lady Mary Fitzwilliam, exactly the same in shape and dimensions, but nearly white, faintly tinged with pink in the centre ; the petals are also edged with the same hue. The Bride is a pale cream or sulphur - yellow Tea Rose of very good form, while R. Golden Fairy is a fawn-coloured very diminutive Fairy Rose, and Minutifolia alba is an exceedingly dwarf, white-flowered miniature plant of free-growing habit, and foliage of the size and form of the common Box. Among the several new light varieties of the Iris Ksmpferi, Acquisition occupies a prominent position; its beautiful delicately coloured large flowers are white, veined with crimson-purple and yellow central blotches; the limb of the stigma is deep purple. Exquisite has the outer divisions of a lovely shade of lilac-blue, veined with white and blotched with yellow at the base, while Criterion is a splendid dark variety with large flowers of a rich colouring, their inner and outer divisions broad, rounded, nearly equal in size, regular in outline, and in colour purplish lilac, veined and suffused with a deeper shade. The varieties Magician, Aphrodite, and Figaro represent the improvements worked in that useful class of plants, the double Pyrethrums: the former variety is most distinct, -with flowers neat and finely quilled, pink tipped with yellow. Figaro is a neat bright crimson flower, tipped with white : while Aphrodite is a pure white beautifully quilled. Several superior forms of tuberous Begonias have been raised, among them being Alba magna. Snowball, and Edelweiss, three varieties with pure white double flowers; Mrs. Lewis Castle, a handsome compact double variety with very large flowers, of very good form, and of a salmon-pink shade; Jupiter, with flowers of an intense scarlet colour, and nearly as round as a ball ; Major Lendy, Adonis, Perfection, and Jubilee, the latter with flowers rosette shaped, and of a bright pink colour, have also to be added to the already long list of use- ful plants. Among'the"single-flowering varieties of Dahlias we noteCanterburyTales, a flower of massive character with petals broad and well shaped, colour crimson, shaded with violet, showing a somewhat novel effect produced by the combination of colours ; Miss Henshaw is a variety of very delicate pale primrose-yellow colour; Maude Millet is a flower of moderate size and of a pale mauve colour, deepening into an intense mauve at the tips of the florets, the base being white ; where- as quite a new departure in the disposition of colours, and one which may be worked up with advantage by florists is noticed in the variety called Miss Gordon, whose round and perfect single flowers, above medium size, have smooth florets overlapping, and of a deep yellow, with a broad band of crimson on the edges. D. Zulu is one of the Cactus section, with flowers of a deep crimson- velvety colour, and Henry Patrick is a very free- lilooming decorative variety of snowy whiteness, with flowers of medium size and somewhat flat. In Carnations, Alice Ayres, a distinct and beautiful bor- der variety, with white flowers of fine circular form, streaked with bright red, very free-flowering, and of good form, must be noted ; Purple Emperor, a large purple-crimson self flower ; Will Threlfall, a very handsome, bright, clear yellow self ; and Gravetye Gem, a showy variety, with orange-buff clove-scented flowers of a bright, unfamiliar, effec- tive terra-cotta tint. In Pseonies, among the Moutan varieties are Baueri, a large double rose- coloured flower ; Isis, a semi-double flower of fine form and cherry-red colour ; Lactea, a good-sized double white flower, with crimson at the base of the petals ; Zenobia, rich magenta, well imbricated, very full flower ; and Odorata Maria, a variety with very large flowers, of a blush or pale flesh colour, deeper at the base of the petals. There are also new Delphiniums, Gladioli, Azaleas of the mollis section, Mimuluses, and many other kinds which cannot all be enumerated here. Ranun- culus cortusiefolius is a veritable giant Butter- cup, growing 3 feet high, and very effective ; the flowers are fully 2 inches across. Heuchera sanguinea is a native of Mexico, and an ex- tremely pretty dwarf hardy plant adapted either for the rookery or for the border. It is of very com- pact habit, with small rounded dentate leaves, and its reddish scarlet tubular flowers are produced freely in neat spikes 18 inches to 2i inches long. It is so very free-flowering, that one plant frequently bears from forty to fifty spikes, which are very ornamental. The only novelties in ornamental trees are varieties or fixed sports of popular species, such as Abies excelsa mutabilis, a very distinct Spruce, with its young growth of a pale sulphur col- our, showing well against the other parts of the tree, which are of a dark green ; Abies canadensis argentea, whose young growths are of a very pleasing light green ; Juniperus canadensis aurea, of dense habit with foliage of yellowish green ; Sequoia sempervirens albo-spica, whose young growth almost white is very effective, &c. Syringa japonica is the only flowerint;' shrub of special interest this season. It is a beautiful and free- flowering plant which bears a profusion of large, dense clusters of creamy white flowers which have a very powerful fragrance. The leaves are elliptical, 6 inches long by about 4 inches wide ; the general appearance of the shrub is that of a Ligus- trum or Privet. The new Cherry called Emperor Francis is a distinct and fine variety which will no doubt prove a valuable market kind. It belongs to the late Bigarreau section, and has large scarlet fruits blotched with a purplish colour, and is of very good quality. In Jllle. de Soulange we have a small early table Pear, which cannot fail to prove useful, coming in as it does when few are ripe. Its flesh is juicy and well flavoured. In colour, the fruit is rich green, resembling in appearance and size that of Doyenn6 d'Ete, though perhaps a little longer and more regular in outline. Beauty of Bath is a dessert Apple of remarkably pretty appearance ; the fruits, of laediuiu size and regu- lar form, roundish and flattened, bright red on the sunny side, yellowish green on the other parts, are juicy and richly flavoured. Gascoigne's Scarlet Seedling Apple is another new kind, useful either for dessert or for the kitchen ; it is a pyramidal, large-sized fruit, light green on the shaded side, and bright crimson on that exposed to the light. The flesh is white, firm, sweet, and juicy, and with a pleasant aroma like that of a Ribston Pippin. A grand addition to the list of keeping Apples is Bismarck, a fruit in the way of Emperor Alexander, but flatterin shape,and keeping in good condition until March. It is also a kitchen THE GARDEN. [Jan. 7, 1888. Apple of excellent quality. Its colour is a deep red on the exposed side and green on the other, but very variable, as some fruits show bright flushes of crimson on an almost white ground. S. Ferns. W. H. GOWER. THE FERNS OF ST. HELENA. This peculiar and interesting island stands in tlie South Atlantic Ocean, and is some twelve hundred miles from Cape Negro, on the African coast, which is the nearest land. It is of vol- canic i>rigin, some twenty-eight miles in cir- cumference, the centre rising in a mountain which is nearly 2700 feet above the level of the sea, and which is called Diana's Peak. Most of these points, however, are tolerably well known, but it is not so well known that a goodly proportion of its flora is peculiar to itself, and is worthy of particular attention. Especially so is this the case with its Ferns, which, as far as I can learn, comprise upwards of two dozen kinds, of which about one-half has not been found growing in any other portion of the globe, whilst the others have a more or less extensive distribution, some of our native Ferns even finding a footing upon this lonely isle, viz., Asplenium Adiantum-nigrum, A. lanceolatum, and Ophioglossum vulgatum, all familiar forms to the lovers of Ferns, the fronds of the first- mentioned being now popularly known in Covent Garden Market by the name of French Fern. Nearly all of the species found in St. Helena are amenable to greenhouse treatment, so that any lover of Nature possessing that valuable adjunct to a home of taste can be assured of success in their culture. ASPLENITJM TENELLUii. — This is a very pretty plant, with spreading pinnate fronds from !l inches to 1 foot in length, slender, pendent, lanceolate in outline, and very proliferous at the points. The pinnaj are oblong obtuse, eared at the base on the upper margin and toothed on the edges, somewhat membraneous in texture and deep sea-green in colour. It thrives well in a cool house and, I believe, likes limestone ; it should not be watered overhead with the syringe in winter, as such treat- ment frequently turns the fronds black, rendering them unsightly and injuring the health of the plant. This form, which is more commonly known as A. reclinatum, appears to be peculiar to this island, but if all the kinds which are grouped with it are merely varieties, then it is a very variable species, and one that is widely distributed through- out tropical countries. ASPLEXIUM COMPRESSTJM.— A large and highly ornamental Spleenwort, producing fronds from 1 foot to .3 feet in length, and from (j inches to 1 foot broad. The pinn«, which are numerous, bear quan- tities of young plants on their upper surface, and are thick and leathery in texture, and of a rich deep green colour, whilst the numerous bold lines of brown sori on the underside add considerably to the beauty of the plant. It thrives well on the rockwork of a cool house. A. PLATYBASis. — This species resembles some- what A. falcatum or A. serra; indeed, it is by some considered to be only a variety of the variable A. falcatum, but this form would appear to be peculiar to this island. The fronds grow from 18 inches to 2 feet in length, and are leathery in texture. It forms a handsome specimen, but is by no means common. Aoo-sioPTERis sunniAPHANUM.— This is not a very showy Fern, but it is extremely interesting as one of the species that only exi.st on this solitary island. It has been frequently imported, but does not exist long in this country. It belongs to the Acrostichums, and is really a Tongue Kern (Elapho- glossum) with a few slight dillerences. The fronds are simple, some G inches or 9 inches long and about 1 inch broad, the infertile ones tapering at both edges ; the fertile ones are much smaller and are long-stalked, whilst the texture of both is coria- ceous; the veins are joined near the margin by a zigzag vein. Cheilanthes multifida.— A pretty species, which is also found in various parts of Cape Colony, and also in Java. It is an evergreen plant with tri- angular fronds supported upon stout, dark brown, glossy stems ; they are four times divided, the seg- ments being small, much recurved when fertile, and soft pale green. It should not be watered overhead with the syringe, neither should its roots be over- burdened with soil. DiCKSONIA AEBORESOBNS. — How few Fern growers know this plant, and yet it is the typical species, and was introduced to cultivation 100 years ago (1786). The stout stems have been in- troduced from time to time, but it is a difficult matter to start them into growth, and I imagine the best way to establish the species in our gardens would be to either import young plants or raise them from seed at home. It" is a bold and hand- some plant, totally different from any other species of Tree Fern, and is peculiar to this island, being found growing near the top of the mountain, which rises in the centre. I am told the quantity of plants in this, its only habitat, is not large, and it i Mlcrostaphylabifureata (showing fertile and infertile fronds) . is, therefore, to be hoped that the authorities will take proper steps to prevent the extermination of the species. The stems are stout, frequently branched, and attain a height of 10 feet or 12 feet, the crown and bases of the fronds being densely clothed with long, bright, amber-coloured, silky hairs ; the fronds are about (j feet in length, up- wards of 2 feet across, and light green in colour ; the rachises are clothed throughout with a short brown tomentum. DiPLAZlUMARDOHESCENS.— Alarge-growingplant, which develops a short stem with age. In well- grown specimens I have seen the fronds nearly 4 feet long and upwards of 2 feet broad ; the crown of the plant is enveloped with black chaffy scales, and the massive fronds are rich deep green in colour. D. NIGRO-PALEACEUM is a Very similar plant to the above, and, indeed, may be only a variety of arborescens. ELAPiiOGLoasUM DIMOBPHUM.— Another' small- growing Fern peculiar to St. Helena. It may be popularly described as a narrow, simple-fronded plant, and the only member of the genus in which the edges of the fronds are lobed or incised. It seldom exceeds a few inches in height. E. OONKORMB. — This species is widely distributed in tropical countries, and is well known in cultiva- tion. The fronds are simple, blunt at the apex. tapering towards the base, the fertile frond invari- ably the smallest, and covered beneath with deep brown sori; they are coriaceous in texture, and deep green in colour. I have never grown the St. Helena form, but specimens of it from other places I have found enjoy stove heat. Grammitis maeginella. — This is a: pretty little Fern with narrow Grass-like fronds some 6 inches or 9 inches ;long, blunt at the apex, and tapering gradually to the base ; it also has a narrow black line which extends round the margin of the frond. It is found in various other parts of the world. Gymnogramma Haughtoni.-^A small-growing species, which, as far as I am aware, has never been in cultivation in this country. It is of tufted habit, with ovate-lanceolate, twice-divided fronds, which are deeply divided and from 3 inches to G inches high, dark green, supported upon slender shining black stems. Htmbnophyllum capillacum is a slender- growing Filmy Fern with much the aspect of our native H. tunbridgense, but is quite distinct from it. I am not aware that it is in cultivation, but it would make a pleasing addition to a collec- tion. It is peculiar to the island. Lastrea Napoleonis. — In this we have a dis- tinct and handsome form of the Buckler Fern, and it is peculiar to this famous island. The fronds are deltoid in outline, from a foot to 18 inches high, and G inches to 8 inches across; the bases of the stems furnished with large pale brown chaffy scales and hairs : the pinnules on the lower pair of pinna; are much the longest, and form a distinct feature in the plant ; all the segments are somewhat blunt and toothed, upper side of frond bright green, the under side and the sori tinged with red. This species was introduced to commerce by the Messrs. Jackson, of Kingston, but has never becomip plen- tiful. Lastrea patens. — A somewhat common-looking Fern very much resembling Nephrodium molle. The fronds axe from 2 feet to 3 feet long, and from 6 inches to 0 inches broad. It will grow anywhere. This plant is also distributed throughout Tropical America, and is also found at the Cape. Lastrea coonata is a fine bold-growing plant, nearly allied to L. Napoleonis, and, like it, is pecu- liar to St. Helena. It is robust in habit, producing fronds some 3 feet or more high. These are some- what triangular-ovate in outline and coriaceous in texture. It is by no means plentiful in cultivation. Microstaphyla bifuecata. — This is the Adian- tum furcatum of Linnaius, and the Acrostichum bifurcatum of Swartz. It is found in no other part of the world, and is one of the most peculiar Ferns I know. I have frequently received masses of plants, but never kept them alive very long. I con- fess to having killed 'them by keeping them in far too hot and close an atmosphere. The infertile fronds are from 3 inches to G inches long, frequently forked in the manner of a stag's horn, whilst the fertile ones are nearly entire, but a reference to our illustration gives an excellent idea of this curious and most interesting plant. I believe this Fern will be found to thrive best in stony soil mixed with limestone. Phegopteris DIANJ3, Otherwise known as Poly- podium molle. — This is a large and extremely handsome species first introduced to cultivation by Messrs. Jackson, of Kingston, and is another of the Ferns peculiar to the island. The rhizome is densely clothed with large light brown chaffy scales, which are continued up the stem and rachis ; fronds arch- ing, from 2 feet to 3 feet long, and from 1 foot to 18 inches broad ; pinna; upwards of 6 inches long, and about 3 inches across. An extremely orna- mental Fern of quite a distinct aspect. It thrives best in strong, stiff soil. Plbopeltis lanceolata. — The fronds of this species are about 1 foot long, simple, tapering at each end, and coriaceous in texture, deep green above, furnished with a few scattered peltate scales ; beneath, however, they are more thickly coated. It appears to be widely distributed in tropical countries. Jan. 7, 1888.] THE GARDEN. Pteris palbacea. — This species I have never seen in good character. It is said to be found almost at the top of Diana's Peak, and would form" a valuable addition to a collection of greenhouse Ferns, from its umbrella-like form, as the fronds — which are supported upon long chestnut-brown stems — are nearly as broad as they are long. It is peculiar to the island. POLTPODIUM KUGULOSUM. — This is a handsome plant, with a stout, creeping, scaly rhizome ; fronds somewhat distant and triangular in outline, from 1 foot to 8 feet in length, intense deep green ; sori oftentimes very abundant. It thrives well in a basket, and also forms a handsome specimen planted out in a rather elevated position, but should not be planted on the ground-level. This species appears to be very variable, and is vridely distributed. Flower Garden. THE LANCE-LEAVED TICKSEED. (coreopsis lanoeolata.) This is the best member of a large genus over- flowing with inferior things, and supplying very few that deserve recognition as garden peren- nials. A border witliout C. lanceolata is not complete ; it lack-s a plant capable of making a profuse display of a rich yellow colour at a season when gaudy tints are disappearing and the garden shows an aspect of decay. Al- care is the one great requisite. There is another place besides the border that might be allotted to C. lanceolata, and that is the rockery, espe- cially where this approaches the size of the one, for instance, at Kew. In such arrangements as this there are wide ledges, huge tree stumps, Moss-covered boulders, and sheltered bays, where plants can have conditions as natural as it is able to give them when under cultiva- tion. Plant the Coreopsis on the higher tiers, in odd corners, that break in on the view, as there the gorgeous blossoms will not be hid- den by rampant growth. There is another thing that tends to make the Coreopsis popular, and that is the value of the star-like flowers when cut. They are borne on slender, but rather stiff stems, and may be arranged lightly in vases with excellent effect. The engraving accompanying these notes gives a good idea of the usefulness of Coreopsis flowers in common vases, as, unlike many of the blooms of hardy autumn-flowering perennials, they are of medium size, and therefore not lumpy or rough. A coloured plate of this appeared in The Garden, Nov. 29, 1884 (p. 4.60). E. C. LIFTING GLADIOLI. " Delta " in his interesting article on Gladioli in The Garden, Dec. 24 (p. 583), doubts the wisdom of leaving the corms in the ground so late as the The Liuoe-loaved Tiokseed (Coreopsis lanceolata). though old, it is excluded from many places where it ought to be welcomed as an in- dispensable hardy flower. It grows about 2 feet in height, in some specially favourable situations rising as much as 4 feet, and such a specimen, when well clothed with the un- divided leaves of cheerful green and smothered with flowers, is at once striking and ornamen- tal. Few plant.s are more easily grown, and to succeed well with it a light, well-drained soil, together with a sunny position, are essen- tial conditions, as cold, clayey ground it dislikes. It often commences to bloom in July, and, by . removing the flowers as they fade, a succession is maintained until far into the autumn, as the plant is not unnecessarily weakened. As in the case of most hardy perennials, it is a simple mat- ter to increase the stock. Lift the roots carefully, divide or pull them in moderate-sized pieces, and plant in ordinary well-prepared soil. They will soon become established if the dividing process is properly performed. Many recklessly chop and hack the roots with a spade, and then feel hurt that the plants never do so well afterwards. In all things, especially in such bold surgery as this. , end of November, and as he kindly refers to the system practised here, I should like to make a few ; remarks on the subject. ' The best time for lifting here is determined by the season and state of the plants, and is not a question of any particular week or even month, but depends entirely on the weather during October and November as to whether the frosts have been severe enough to kill the foliage, which even on plants which may have bloomed as early as the beginning of August keeps in a comparatively green state into December, should no severe frosts come in the interval to destroy the same. From [ this it will be obvious to anyone acquainted with a ! plant like the Gladiolus that the longer the plant 1 is allowed to grow the greater the chances of per- j feet maturation of the new corms, a most impor- ', tant point in their successful cultivation. There is 1 no fear whatever of any second growth taking place 1 so long as the foliage remains in a comparatively 1 fresh state. Some varieties, especially those making comparatively small corms, naturally make very large fleshy roots. Phtebus, Meyerbeer, and Benvenuto may be instanced as examples of this type, and, unless very closely examined, it is a very easy I matter to mistake the root-growth thrown out in July and August (from the newly-formed corms^ for a second growth, as the roots of this type are always large and fleshy, no matter when lifted. Those who may have noted the growth of the corms from their earliest stages know that first of all the old corm throws out roots which sustain the plant in its early stages of growth ; then, as growth proceeds and the new corm forms on the top, by far the most roots, which are no doubt the mainstay of the plant in its later stages of blooming and maturation, are thrown out from this. Like "Delta," we have been a little concerned should severe frost make its appearance previous to lifting any late-growing kinds, and have, like him, taken the precaution to cover with litter, though, perhaps, altogether unnecessary, as we had ample proof last winter that Gladioli are quite hardy in the dry, calcareous soils of the eastern counties. The corms in a bed in a neighbouring garden left undisturbed passed through the last severe winter and pushed up with great vigour in the spring, and up to the time of the dry, hot weather set- ting in, looked quite as promising as the spring- planted corms, but their later stages of growth were not equal to the others, possibly feeling the want of proper division in spring and the deeply worked fresh soil of the spring-planted corms. From this it may be inferred that to leave choice varieties in the ground all winter is a mistake. As further proof of hardiness, numbers come up here the following spring on the ground where the previous year's seedling plants have been grown, where, owing to their being grown thickly, some are missed at lifting time. Here, again, are further proofs that no second growth commences even so late as the early part of February, as I have examined numbers of corms when the ground has been dug over and found them even more dormant than the dry-stored conns, the coldness of the ground during December and January preventing any activity in this direction. This is even so with the moderate-sized seedling corms, which have a greater tendency than any to break into early growth. These notes have reference entirely to the ganda- vensis hybrids ; with some of the earlier-blooming species and hybrids of the ramosus section the case is altogether different ; these, being early bloomers, mature when the ground is in its warmest con- dition, and if left in the soil second root growth commences at once — in fact, many of these scarcely appear to have a resting period at all when in con- tact with sufficient warmth and moisture. There is an important matter connected with the subject, that is, our culture is carried on in a part of England where the maximum of sunshine and the minimum of rain prevail, the annual average fall of the latter being only about 20 Inches, and on soil both naturally and artificially well drained. Whether in districts with double the rainfall men- tioned and in soils abounding in humus it would be wise to defer the lifting so late as November is open to doubt, but that it suits the conditions here we have ample proof from the fact that we never fail to lift double the bulk of healthy corms in the autumn to what were planted the previous spring, the plants of some of the taller growing kinds in favourable seasons often reaching a height of nearly () feet. There are, perhaps, few Gladioli growers who will be disinclined to agree with " Delta " that the past season has been a favourable one for harvesting a good crop of healthy corms, although there may be differences of opinion as regards the blooming period, the great heat and drought in some of the hot districts during the month of August being too much for a fine development of spike. The fierce heat here on, I think, the 4th of August did great harm to the spikes just then showing out of the leaves— in fact, burnt the points out of many, and it was curious to note these, when blooming about a month later on, to find that in many instances the top buds were blind, and the lower buds on th'e same spike, not then piished out of the foliage on the date named, gave flowers of full size and good colour. Then, again, some of the dark varieties well exhibited by the northern growers, and gene- rally so fine in colour here, were pretty much the colour of brown leather, evidently froip the same 8 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 7, 1888. cause, as a few late spikes of these blooming in October came in good character. No doubt the great heat in August had much to do with the poor competition at the southern shows, for even the Gaillardias, so resplendent in tropical weather, hung their heads during the hot period referred to, as though they would have felt happier in a cooler atmosphere. J. Bdrhell. CavihrUhje, *,* With the above notes Mr. Burrell sent us some large, firm, and well-developed corms, show- ing how well the soil around Cambridge suits this favourite plant. — Ed. green from end to end with strong plants, all of which wUl be dibbled out during the month of March, thus allowing ample time for the development of strong growth before the usual summer heat occurs. It is of little consequence if few or none bloom the first spring, because the plants become so very strong the following winter, blooming early and very profusely. If the white Hellebore is rightly designated Christmas Rose, the Primrose should be termed spring Rose, as being much prettier and more applicable. However, there is not much in a name, and a Primrose under any other name would still be lovely when in bloom, and especially so the beautiful garden varieties. A. D. tions. It is said to excel that old favourite C. B. Admiral Curzon in brilliancy of colour. As it is now being distributed, ample opportunities will be afforded for testing it during the coming summer. — R. D. HARDY PRIMROSES. What is the derivation of the term Primrose? Does it mean primitive or original Rose, or does it mean prime or best Rose? The appellation of Rose to so many flowers in no way associated with the true Rose of gardens seems to be as anomalous as is the frequent appellation of the Lily to flowers which have no affinity with the true Lily. The Primrose enjoys one privilege denied to the queen of flowers: it blooms naturally far earlier in the year, and during favourable winters will even flower all through the cold season. What remarkable recu- perative powers Primroses have the recent season has fully shown. So recently as August last the plants bore a miserable, withered aspect, not even a green leaf, whilst smothered with thrlps. Practi- cally perennial or evergreen, it would hardly be imagined that the plants could recover from the combined attacks of heat, drought, and insects. Too often we see plants under such conditions succumb to the evils named, but Primroses, this year at least, would not be killed. Many hundreds of plants that looked quite dead two or three months ago have now developed luxuriant leafage, and are posi- tively showing bloom. Of old-established plants I do not think the drought has killed a dozen, but some young ones planted out in the spring have suffered a little, because less deeply rooted. Al- though the period of drought was severe and un- usually prolonged, I rather attribute the comparative immunity from harm to the plants to the lateness of the spring and the heavy rains of the end of August, which cooled the soil. But for that most acceptable rainfall we might have found Primroses, and indeed many other spring plants, greatly in- jured, as considerable drought followed for some weeks later. There are two seasons in the year for transplant- ing Primroses ; the best, for old plants lifted and carefully divided first, if found desirable, is during the early winter, after good leafage has been formed ; and the next in the spring after the blooming period. Plants now di\'ided and replanted, if they have plenty of leaves, soon form roots, and the plants get fresh hold of the soil. In the spring, however, after blooming, plants may be more thoroughly divided, even to the making of single crowns ; indeed it is well then to remove all the old roots and trust only to the new roots which come out from the base of each crown. All these crowns dibbled up into good soil soon get established, and if kept well shaded and watered make line plants during the summer. Some shelter from strong sunshine and frequent sprinklings during the summer are essen- tial to the welfare of young plants thus propagated. Old plants deeply rooted, 1 find, in stiff soils with- stand heat and drought well, but I have no doubt that a dry summer will seriously affect plants of any age when growing in a shallow soil. The rais- ing from seed of a batch of plants annually is, how- ever, a very easy matter. Strong seedling plants when well established withstand the severities of seasons, whether hot or cold, much more readily, than divided plants, and there is no reason why hardy Primroses should not be abundant in all gar- dens. Whilst some prefer to sow seed in the spring, I adbtre to my old plan of sowing almost as soon as the seed is gathered, simply allowing it to first become thoroughly ripened. Last summer I sowed the seeds at the end of .laly in a narrow north border and on fine soil. Of course constant waterings were needful for some time to induce the seed to germi- nate freely, but it did so, and the entire border is Ealalia japonica variegata. — In the article on this useful plant in Thb Garden, December 31 (p. 599), the two varieties appear to be confused. E. j. variegata is distinctly striped lengthwise of the leaves with white, while E. j. zebrina has bands of straw colour across the leaves, a curious and distinct form of variegation. Both varieties are very pretty, but I should give the preference to the first-named. Although quite hardy this is well worthy of pot culture, and when grown in a little warmth the leaves becomes more elongated and are gracefully recurved. It forms a very effective object either for table decoration or for the conservatory, and can often be used when more tender plants would be damaged by cold. A good stock may easily be obtained, as the plants may be readily increased by division. I may add that the green form is also a useful plant, especially where large conservatories have to be filled, the deep green foliage forming a good background for choicer subjects ; the inflorescence is also very attractive. The green form may be obtained from seed, seed- lings forming prettier specimens than those obtained by division. — A. Hardiness of Gladioli corms.— At page 583 of The Gabden "Delta" says, that "bulbs came up in a part of my Rose garden where I had not planted Gladioli for ten years or more, yet when one attempted to leave some in the ground to see what they would do it was a miserable failure." This is just my experience. Fifteen years ago I made my first sowing of Gladioli seed in the open, and ever since then on that particular piece of ground a good many plants come up every year, and some flower as strongly as those which are taken up and stored through the winter and other- wise well cared for. I do not crop the ground, and do nothing to it except to stir up the surface once during the winter. Strong plants also appear in other parts of the garden where Gladioli have been planted at different times, and they flower well, but if I leave out during the winter any bulbs that I have planted, they invariably die. What is remark- able is that the self-sown bulbs of the choicest kinds are as hardy when left in the ground as the commoner sorts. — J. C. C. SHORT NOTES.— FLOWER. Ripened Daffodil bulbs. — Would some of your readers mention the periods at which they plant tlieir bulbs for market forcing, the sorts they grow for cut flowers in (juantity, and what advantages are obtained by the importing of foreign bulbs above what can be gi'own in the south of Ireland or England ? — ■ W. B. H. Narcissus palliduB praecox is in full bloom now with me (Dec. 2.")), and Ard-Righ, or Irish King, neck and neck with it. The one Irish grown and naturalised for centuries, the other fresh imported bullis from the south of France. 1 wish we could grow our own Roman Hyacinths. Probably we could in the Clonakilty sand deposits. Certainly the island of Clonakilty would grow all sorts of bulbs to per- fection, and our winters are so mild, a reguljir green Christmas just now. Daffodils in the open (Ard- Righ : this is to be the name, I suppose) will flower to perfection tlio first week in February, as usual. — VV. ii. Haktlanii, Corl:. Carnation S. B. Robert Houlgrave.— It is soldr)m :l ('Hrnatinn shows such a distinct cluiract^r of growth :is docs Mr. Samuel IJarlow's new introduction under this name. It has a peculiarly close, wiry, and somewhat pendent habit of growth, and it can be readily picked out among a number of other Carna- Chrysanthemums. CULTIVATION OF THE CHRYSANTHEMUM.* As the Rose is considered to be the queen of summer flowers, in like manner the Chrysanthe- mum may be called the queen of autumn flowers, no plant having made such rapid progress during the last few years. The Chinese, or incurved sec- tion was introduced from China somewhere about the year 1764, but it seems to have found little favour until within the last twenty or thirty years, and now nearly every town holds its annual ex- hibition. As a mark of its increasing popularity, mention may be made of this year's Portsmouth show, where during the last three hours on the second day no less than 8109 visitors paid, for ad- mission, and this is no exception, for wherever good exhibits are brought together, the show is generally well patronised. The later introductions from Japan have had much to do with this, as they have such a striking appearance either on the plant or when cut. Their diversity of form and richness of colour make them most welcome during the dull months of No- vember and December. As they are so easily grown, anyone possessing a small garden might have a rich display in the autumn, and Chrysanthemum growing, when once taken in hand, will not be readily given up. I will now give what I believe to be the best mode of cultivation, and, first of all, I will deal with plants grown for large flowers. From the middle of December to the first week in January I consider to be the Ijest time to propagate. As there are so many varieties cultivated, it is necessary for the beginner to make a selection of the best and most popular sorts before starting, which is easily done by noting down at the exhibitions varieties most frequently staged by the successful competitors. I would advise growing only a limited number of sorts according to requirements, two or three each of the best rather than a number of uncertain and unsatisfactory varieties. I have tried several methods of striking, but have found the safest and best way is to set apart a light or two of a pit divided by a temporary wooden partition, with hot-water pipes running through, and filled with sifted coal ashes as near to the glass as the pots will allow. I very much object to a cold frame, although I am aware that a great many growers propagate in this way, for the reason that, owing to the bad weather we are likely to get at this season, it is necessary to keep them shut up and covered perhaps for weeks to- gether ; hence the cuttings must suffer from damp, mildew, &c., and at the same time remain in an al- most dormant condition. To obtain satisfactory re- sults the plants should be kept in a healthy condi- tion from the time the cuttings are put in until the flowering season comes round. The soil used for striking should consist of two parts light fibrous loam, two parts leaf-mould, with a good addition of sharp silver sand, using 3-inch pots, with a little Moss or rough loam placed over the drainage to keep it clean and sweet. Fill the pots moderately firm, and place a little silver sand over the top ; insert four cuttings in each pot ; these at all times should be clean-cut and not rooted suckers, choosing the strongest and most sturdy. Label carefully, water, and place them in the pit already prepared. For a few weeks they will require very little atten- tion, except a sprinkling overhead on bright morn- ings. Some sorts will be found to root much quicker than others. They should be taken out as they commence starting into growth and placed either in a cold frame or on a light, airy shelf in the greenhouse. The whole stock should be ready for potting into 3-inch pots by the end of January or the first week in February. Arrange them in a cold frame * A p:iper read by Mr. E. Beckett, The (iarjens, Aldcnham House, Elstree, at the meeting of the St. Albans Horticultural Society. Jan. 7, 1888.] THE GARDEN. facing south on a bed of coal ashes. Soil for this potting should be the same as before ad?ised ; thoroughly waterio and keep close for a few days, taking care to' protect them from frost. Give air freely as they commence to grow, and remove the lights on favourable occasions during the day. No- thing tends to strengthen and keep them in good health when ia a young state like fresh air. By the last week in March the plants will be ready for potting into 6-inch pots. The soil should now con- sist of two parts of good fibrous loam, one part well decayed horse or cow manure, one part leaf- mould with a good addition of coarse sand, and a few half-inch bones placed over the drainage. Place a neat stake to each plant and return them to the cold frame, treating them as before mentioned. At the end of April, if the weather is favourable, move them outside to a sheltered position ; the foot of a south wall or fence will suit them admirably. Let them stand clear of each other on slates or boards to keep the drainage perfect. The final potting should be made the first or second week in June. I should recommend 8-inoh pots, as these are large enough for all kinds, although a few of the strongest-growing kinds may be put into 10-inch pots. The compost for this potting should be three parts good loam, one part decayed manure, with a good addition of bone-meal. Drain well, using a thin layer of fibre taken from the loam over the drainage, which should be clean crocks and half- inch bones. If the soil is in good order it is impossible to pot too firmly. Secure the stems firmly to a stake, and place the plants where they are to remain for the summer months. The most suitable and convenient place is an 0]ien, airy position by the side of a walk, where the plants get the full benefit of the sun during the whole day. If neatly arranged and kept tied they are far from being unsightly. Make secure against the wind, which is best done by driving in strong stakes a short distance apart, and straining wire or strong string to fix the plants to. Syringe freely every fine afternoon. As the plants advance in growth and the pots become full of roots, manure water must be applied at every other watering. Attend to thinning out the shoots, allowing but three or four to a plant, according to its strength and the variety. Taking the buds is a source of great anxiety even to the most experienced cultivators, as sorts differ so much as to the time it takes them to expand. Experience alone can only make one perfect in this. But generally for those that are required about the middle of November, I have always found from the last week in August to the second in September the best time. From three to six flowers only to be left if extra large blooms are desired, and the central bud always kept. Disbudding should be performed by a steady hand and keen eye. A small pointed stick is what I use, taking the buds away when they are large enough, exercising great care not to damage the remaining bud. By the .first week in October all should be safely housed. When first taken in, allow them as much room and air as possible ; watering, when required, always to be done in the morning. A little fire-heat in damp, cold weather will greatly help to improve the quality of the flowers, particularly those of the Japanese section, and a little top ventilation will act as a preventive against the damping off of the petals, which often disfigures large, massive flowers. The dwarfing or cutting-down system, which in some localities is practised rather largely, is useful for some purposes, especially where dwarf plants are desirable, but from my own experience I do not advocate the principle, for the reason that the blooms lack depth and fine finish. They should be grown on in the usual way till the commencement of June, then cut back to within i inches of the pot. After this keep them moderately dry until they begin to break ; thin out the shoots, leaving three or four of the strongest, and treat in the usual way. DwAEF-TKAiNED SFECIMENS. — The principal points to be aimed at are flowers of fine quality and good foliage. Strong plants should be selected early in February, and placed near the glass in a growing temperature. When about I) inches high, the points should be pinched out and the plants shifted into O-inch pots when com- mencing to break. When they are established, they may be removed to a cold frame, and when the shoots are long enough training should be com- menced. Fix a wire under the rim of the pot, gently pulling down the shoots until they are in the required position. Admit air on all favourable occasions, syringing the plants early in the after- noon. When required, pot into s-inch pots, and attend to the tying down of the shoots as before. Harden ofiE the plants, so as to fit them to stand out of doors early in May, selecting a sheltered, but light position. Should the weather be frosty, they must be protected by light canvas. By the second week in June they should be shifted finally into 12-inch pots. Stand them on slates a good distance apart. A wire hoop, painted green, placed round them () inches from the pot, is the best means of training the shoots. On all fine days syringe in the morning and again in the evening. Stopping the shoots should be discontinued by the first week in July, or poor flowers will be the result ; if left later, the plants should be placed under glass about the same period as previously mentioned. They should also be staked before the flowers are too far expanded. The above remarks, in aU cases, apply to the large-flowering sections, viz., incurved, Japanese, reflexed, and Anemone-flowered. Pompons for pine flowers are best struck in February, and stopped once or twice during the spring. Disbudding must not be practised to such a large extent as in the case of large-flowering sorts, but a moderate thinning out of the buds will always repay. Manure water. — Many kinds have been re- commended, but I have found none to suit them so well as the following : In a large tub or cistern place one bushel of soot tied securely in a thin bag and one barrowful each of fresh cow and horse manure; fill with soft water. Stir the whole well up before using, and strain through a half -inch sieve; dilute to the colour of weak tea. Occasionally give them a change of weak guano water. The diseases and enemies of the Chrysanthemum in some seasons are very numerous, and the past season has been by no means an exception. I have always noticed that there are more blind and de- formed buds after a long spell of hot, dry weather. Mildew is sure to make its appearance, notably so on some varieties more than others; as a preventive, dust occasionally with sulphur. When the plants are young the green aphis is often very trouble- some, attacking the points of the shoots. Strong tobacco water is the safest and best remedy, dipping the plants thoroughly, and syringing two hours after with soft, warm water. Earwigs are also a troublesome pest from the time the buds begin to form until the flowers expand. These must be watched for night and morning; Bean stalks cut into lengths of about (5 inches and placed among the plants make capital traps. Another insect, commonly known as the jumper, does a lot of mis- chief to the young points and buds. I know of no remedy for this, except killing with the thumb and fino-er. But the most destructive of all that I have niel with is an insect which in its young state resembles black aphis, becoming a light green later on. At this stage it travels round the shoots very rapidly when disturbed, and when fully developed turns to a soft brown fly. I know of no remedy for this, except citching and killing it. Dust the points occasionally with tobacco powder during the season. Chrysanthemum? from suckers.— With reference to "J. C. B.'s" inquiry in The Garden (p. 575) on this subject, I may mention that for many years past I have propagated from suckers in place of cuttings. I believe that suckers make the earliest and best plants. This being so, it is a decided gain to increase the plants that way ; but, as "J. C. B.'' knows, there are so many of the best sorts which grow so late, that it is difficult to get even cuttings in good time. That was my reason for adopting the cutting-down system for the pur- pose of obtaining suckers or cuttings earlier. I am quite sure if the plan is fairly tried it will not dis- appoint.— J. C. C. Sweet-scented Chry/janthemums. — It is gratifying to notice that this subject has been taken up, as if the Chrysanthemum has one fault it is that the flowers have a pungent, unpleasant odour that prevents them being used so much as they might possibly be for decorations, a, bouquets, button-holes, &c. Some of the varieties are espe- cially notorious in this respect, but we have, happily, a few that rival the Violet and the Primrose in sweetness and delicacy of perfume. Progne is a variety famous for its 'Violet-like fragrance, and if only this most commendable attribute of the flower were encouraged, we should find the Chrysanthemum occupy a higher position than it does even now in the world of flowers. By all means develop a race of sweet-scented Chrysanthemums, and the step that the Hull Chrysanthemum Society has taken in this direction, I hope, will be followed by other societies, as it is only by offering prizes that atten- tion can be practically drawn to the subject. We are always striving after other novelties, so here is a chance for the hybridist, as we certainly want the disagreeable odour characteristic of many Chrysan- themum flowers driven out and something better substituted. Mr. Burbidge, in his excellent article on this subject in The Garden, Dec. 31 (p. liOCi). writes; "But all Chrysanthemum flowers have a rather sweet and aromatic smell." Surely this is a mistake— at least, I have found things very diffe- rent.—E. C. Mr. Peter Inchbald, F.L.S., in The Garden, Deo. 17(p.551),referringtothecompetitionforsweet- scented Chrysanthemums at the Hull show this year, states that " the prizes were awarded, I believe, by the committee." The duty was performed by the regularly appointed judges to the show. That some varieties of Chrysanthemums have a sweet scent is beyond doubt, and the ex-Mayor of Hull, Mr. J. Leak, being desirous of encouraging their cultivation, offered a prize for them at the last show and has repeated it for the next show. Some of my friends as well as myself having grown flowers for this competition, I can with certainty say that some of the single varieties have a most delicate perfume, whilst our old friends. Dr. Sharpe and Progne, are in this respect not to be despised. I hope the fact of the Hull Society giving prizes for sweet-scented Chrysanthemums will lead others to do the same, and thus encourage the cultivation of a class which cannot fail to become popular.— E. Harland. Varieties cf Chrysanthemums —It is well known that fashions and ideas vary with regard to flowers, as first one class and then another will be- come far more popular than they have hitherto been, and in many cases drop back again to much the same position as they occupied before. Two years ago single-flowered Dahlias were all the rage, while they have now already lost a good deal of their popularity, and two of the most fashionable among florists' flowers just now are the tuberous Begonia and the Chrysanthemum, neither of which from their beauty, and, in the case of the Chrysan- themum, the time at which it flowers, are likely to lose their hold on the public. One agent is, how- ever, strongly at work to dethrone the Chrysanthe- mum from its popularity, and th.it is, the practice of issuing such enormous lists of names and the sending out of so many so-called new varieties. I do notlsnow how many kinds are supposed to be in cultivation, but when one firm issues a catalogue of 1000 of the best sorts, it is evident that that number is much exceeded, and the question arises, what are the points of difference between some of them ? A perusal of the names of those that are exhibited at the principal shows will reveal the fact that they are limited in extent, and the same va- rieties crop up over and over again. In addition to those that are shown, there are, of courfe, some very useful kinds that do not fulfil (he requirements of an exhibition flower, and consequently are seldom seen in public; vet, granted all Ibis a list of 100 J varieties might, except in a few particular cases, be 10 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 7, 1888. reduced to one quarter of that number, and a good and representative collection could readily be made. As it is, one gets confused with such an array of names, and although some of the new varieties are undoubted acquisitions, there are, on the other hand, many that differ so slightly from the older kinds as to be indistinguishable, unless by close comparison, and consequently where one is grown the other is not required. — H. P. Kitchen Garden. W. WILDSMITH. KITCHEN GAKDEN NOTES. Protection of vegetables. — Since the 26th ult. the ground has been frost-bound, as we have had from 10° to 12° of frost nightly; fortunately for our work, however, there has been no snow, and there- fore whatever required shelter has been given it. Over the rows of Celery a moderately thick coating of stable litter, with the short manure shaken out, has been spread. Celery is of sufficient hardiness to 'withstand our ordinary winter weather, in such a dry position as ours is, without covering, but on all damp, low-lying ground and stiff soil protection is necessary, and though ours is of the very opposite description, we protect for safety, because the plant is in such large demand that we can ill afford to lose any from neglect of applying protection. The same remarks apply to Broccoli. Very rarely indeed have we occasion to shelter by reason of the severity of the weather, and autumn heeling over, as is so general in some parts, we never do. Late or spring-heading kinds are for the most part so hardy that protec- tion of any sort is unnecessary, but winter varieties require covering, as more than a half-a-dozen degrees of frost injure the flowers. Our invariable rale is to closely examine the plots about twice a week and break down the large leaves over the heads of any plants that are turning in, and this covering is now supplemented by the addition of strawy litter over the entire batch, except of such as may be ready for use, and these are lifted and kept in a frost-proof shed until required. Parsnips still in the ground, Jerusalem Artichokes and young autumn-sown Carrots that serve as new Carrots have all been given a light coating of litter, and to Cauliflower and Lettuce plants that are being wintered on narrow borders sheltered by the fruit tree walls, mat coverings, resting on hooped sticks, have been applied. Parsley, Lettuce, and Endive in cold frames have also to be kept constantly covered with mats in severe weather. Wheeling. — The weather has been perfect for this work, and a rich top-dressing of old Vine border soil has been spread over Asparagus plots and over the short manure that was some time since placed round Gooseberries and Currants. All manure wheeling required for mulching of Rasp- berries and alleys next to fruit tree walls, besides soil for top-dressing trees that require such help, are now complete, and once again the principal work is in the Manuee yabd and forcing ground. — Fresh linings are here being built round frames containing Potatoes and Asparagus, and new beds made up on which to put in other liatches of Asparagus, and for the raising of seedlings of various kinds, such as Tomatoes, Cucumbers, and Melons. A quantity of fermentin feet, gave this year rather more than three pecks of good-sized fruits, and this is what I should call an average crop for the variety.— John C. Tallack, Lirermcre, Suffolk. I finite agree with what Mr. W. Coleman says of this Apple in Thk Gahden, Dec. 21 (p. .OyC). It is of good flavour, but it is very shy-bearing. I have a tree here that must be over twenty years old, and all the fruits I have picked from it during the sixteen years I have been here would not amount to half a peck ; therefore, I cannot consider it one of our best Apples.— E. Petees, Chiernsey. For flavour this undoubtedly is one of the very best of dessert Apples, but with regard to its bearing qualities I incline to think it is one of the worst ; in fact, such has been the case here. For the past four seasons from a couple of trees which have been in bearing for several years I have not been able to gather more than three dozen Apples. Careful pruning has been most strictly adhered to, still, I can obtain no fruit, and for this reason I con- sider it is not worth growing here. — H. Makkham. Azalea Deutsche Perle. — This splendid ac- quisition is gaining favour, as it was at once seen it would do when first brought before the public. It is now used for early forcing at Syon House, Isleworth, as Mr. Woodbridge highly prizes its massive, double, and pure white Gardenia-like flowers, that are preferred before those of the old narcissiflora and even Fielder's White, both two favourites that have held their own for many years. The variety Deutsche Perle, while having flowers of greater usefulness than those of the other kinds, blooms with freedom. Odontoglossum Humeanum. — Few plants of this rare and chaste Odontoglot at present exist in this country. It is now in tlower at the St. Albans Nursery, where it has been in perfection several weeks. It first flowered in January, 1876, in the collection of the late Mr. Hume, of Winterton, near Yarmouth, after whom it was named. In habit it closely resembles 0. cordatum, having fine con- spicuous veins in the foliage, the same as in that species. The flowers are of the Rossi type, and measure 3 inches across, the sepals being beauti- fully blotched and spotted, as in O. cordatum ; the petals are broad and creamy white, with bright chocolate blotches at the base ; while the broad, flat lip is of a delicate rose colour. — A. M. The Silver 'Wattle of Tasmania is again the glory of the great temperate plant house at Kew, where the tree of it, 30 feet high or more, resembles clouds of gold, and, one might add, silver, for the ferny foliage is white with the silvery glaucesconce. From such big trees as these one can have an idea of the beauty of the Acacias in the Australian bush, though, perhaps, exposed to the weather, they are not so beautiful as these carefully nurtured specimens at Kew. This Silver Wattle (Acacia dealbata) is now quite a common thing in the London flower markets, as it is imported in large quantities from the sunny south, chiefly from ttie Riviera, at this season and onwards. The collection of Acacias at Kew is very large, and for the next month or two there will be a continuous succession of bloom. A new Odontoglossum, a variety of O. Alexandras, recently flowered at the nursery of Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea. This may not be great news, as forms of this Odontoglossum are constantly appearing, generally showing a distinctness in the markings of the flower. But in the one under notice the whole of the bloom is washed with a kind of rose tint, such as we find in Cattleya liOd- digesi or Miltonia vexillaria. It, however, lacks the rounded sepal and petal, fulness and substance characteristic of the finest forms of U. Alexandrse, so that its colour is the one great feature, and that a most noteworthy one. It would be almost an era in the history of the Orchid if a race of self- coloured Odontoglossums could be promoted ; and now that it appears a start has been made, there is no knowing what advances the hybridist will make, as we already have had such marked successes pro- duced by his skill. Mahernia odorata, or glabrata. — This, though by no means a new plant (having been in- troduced from the Cape in 17'.t2), seems to be a very desirable one, and having been, I believe, for many years lost to European gardens, its re-intro- duction cannot but be a source of pleasure to all lovers of pretty, easily-grown, and deliciously sweet- scented plants. I find young plants of this species offered among many other novelties in the cata- logue of Mr. J. L. Childs, of Floral Park, Queen's County, New York, and the very moderate price at which it is quoted of Is. each puts it within the reach of every lover of pretty flowers. Coloured portraits of this interesting plant will be found in the second volume of Andrews' " Botanist's Reposi- tory," plate 85, and in the ninth volume of the late Professor Morren's BelgU/ue Ilorticole, plate 19. It is described as a very beautiful plant, of compact trailing habit, and produces from February to May a profusion of bell-shaped, golden yellow blossoms, which exhale a perfume strongly resembling that of the Jonquil, one plant being sufficient to perfume a room. It only requires the protection of a cool greenhouse during the winter months, but in sum- mer it does best in the open ground. It is easily propagated by cuttings, which may be struck in a gentle hotbed in March, and quickly form good bushy plants. A constant supply of young plants should be kept up, as Mahernia odorata is short- lived, seldom surviving more than two years. — W. E. GUMBLETON. Christmas Boses. — Just as "Shandon bells" of Prout pealed in the new year 1888 and rung out the old, the enclosed Daffodil, Ard-Righ, or Irish King, saw the light. It is my first bloom. Had I put the batch that this first bloom was cut from into a continuous temperature of about 50° night and day, like some of my friends in England, I should have had blooms a fortnight since. Pallidus prjecox I already have sent you from imported bulbs. I also send specimens of Helleborus niger and its varieties, St. Brigid, Riverstoni, Mme. Fourcade, caucasicus, and Irish major.— W. B. Haetland, Temjile Hill, Cork. *i* A most interesting gathering of Christmas Roses, the flowers fresh and as pure as snow. The Daffodil is a fine variety of the trumpet section. — Ed. Carnations at Ounnershury Bark. — Amongst the many things that Mr. Roberts manages with conspicuous success are the Carnations, to which the greater portion of a house is devoted. The plants are of robust constitution, and show a moderate display of flowers, as almost as fast as they appear they are cut for decoration. It is at Christmas and in the new year that the flowers are so valued, as they are full, firm, and stand well when cut. There are only six sorts grown, and these are Empress of Germany, white, with rose- coloured flakes ; Brunette, a fine rich maroon ; Bright Phoebus, scarlet ; Irma, one of the best, rose- pink ; Tussot's Yellow, yellow ; and Purity, white. To obtain flowers at this season, the cuttings are struck, not in the spring, as is the usual plan, but in the autumn. A moderate degree of heat is given to induce quick root-formation, and about this time the cuttings are potted off. During the summer they are placed in a cold frame, and when the flower-stems begin to rise, taken to the house where they are to remain during the winter. Transactions of the Royal Horticultural Society. — "J.J." can obtain the "Transactions of the Horticultural Society," first and second series, complete, with coloured plates, 10 vols., half-bound in calf, 1792 to 184S, price ii'A 18s. Cd., at John Wheldon's, 58, Great Queen Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields. — Richard Yesey. Cut flowers for winter.— Will any reader of The Garden give the names of .some easily grown flowers (for a garden whore there is not much glass) to come in after Chrysanthemums? Large quantities of cut flowers, white ones in particular, and such as will bear packing, are re(iuircd. During the months of December and January the supply does not equal the demand until the forced bulbs come in. Camellia plants take too much room.— C. H., Gloucestershire. BOOKS RECEIVED. " Bulletin of Miscellaneous Infoi'mation." Colonial fruit (continued). Oflicial copy. Royal Gardens, Kew. Names of plants.— (2- S.— 1, Adiantum Sanctae- Catlicrina3; 2, Adiantum concinnum ; .3, Adiantum cuneatum grandiccps ; 4, Adiantum Luddemanni- anum ; 5, not roiogiiised. Salfitrd. — Please send better specimens with flowers if possilile. Names of fruit. — Ardee and C. H. — Next week. Jan. 7, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 21 WOODS & FORESTS. FORESTRY. The prices of timber, like those of other com- modities, fluctuate according to the supply and demand, and I have found some classes of home-grown timber difiicult to sell at any price. I have sold good Scotch Fir, Spruce, and Silver Fir at prices ranging from 4d. to 8d. per cubic foot. The timber was felled and prepared by the proprietor's men, but the purchaser had to take delivery from the plantations at his own expense. This same class of timber, cut up into scantlings of various sizes at the sawmill, I have supplied at lOd. per cubic foot, lathwood 5-16ths of an inch thick at 2s. 6d., half-inch boarding at 5s. 6d. , three-quarter-inch boarding at 8s. 4d. , and 1-inch boarding at 123. 6d. per 100 square feet. Lathwood boards are some- times cut up by contract at the rate of about 5d. per 100 square feet, and I have occasionally had it cut for less when the men were employed by the day at stated wages. A man will cut up about 1000 feet per day, and in cases where the work was done by contract and by working a little extra time I have known much more to be done. The price of labour fluctuates con- siderably in diflferent parts of the country, and the prices quoted here refer principally to the north of Scotland. On estates of any consider- able size, and where the plantations occupy a large area, it is an advantage for the proprietor to have a sawmill and some of his woodmen capable of working the same, by which means he can have his own timber cut up and prepared on the spot for general estate purposes. It is also an advantage when a proprietor can supply his tenantry with timber cut into scantlings and boarding of difl'erent sizes for building and other purposes at a reasonable price. By such a system of estate management the proprietor is enabled to utilise his timber to the best advantage, besides the great convenience thus afibrded to his tenantry and others in the neighbourhood. When I see an estate well stocked with fine matured timber ready for cutting, and yet at the same time when wood is wanted about the place for repairs or other purposes the order is sent to the wood merchant, I cannot help think- ing that there is something wrong in the manage- ment of such an estate. There is, however, something to be said in favour of the utility of cutting down trees when they reach the years of maturity, and if the timber is not to be used about the place it should be sold to the best ad- vantage. The item of carriage on newly felled rough timber is in many cases a heavy one, and often takes away all the profit. In cases where there is a sawmill on the property the trees should be cut up into such sizes as are suitable for the demands and wants of the district. In this way the slabs and waste of timber in the course of cutting it up have to be deducted from the cost of carriage, and if the wood is properly l^andled and allowed time to become dry, the weight, and consequently the cost of transit, are reduced. This item of itself would form a handsome profit to the proprietor, and as economy should always be a leading feature in estate management, owners of woodlands would only be consulting their own interests by acting on the lines thus indicated. When trees have attained their full size and are adding little or nothing more to their cubical contents they should be cut down and disposed of, as they are then not paying for the gi'ound they occupy ; and, besides, there is always the risk of such trees contracting disease, and indeed in many cases | heart-rot has actually commenced in some species before they have matured their growth. In order to realise the best results, trees, like other crops, should be cut down when they are ripe. The timber of some species of trees when allowed to stand too long gets dry and short in the grain, and conseqiiently defective in quality, and this defect I have noticed more particularly in the common Ash. No timber merchant or consumer will give the same price for old Ash timber, even although the trunks of the trees are clean and free of knots, that he will give for clean, well-grown trees of forty or fifty years' growth. Old Ash timber is used for a variety of purposes, but as it is wanting in elasticity it cannot be used with advantage for handle wood, so that young elastic trees are always preferred for that and many other purposes, and always command the highest price in the market. Trees are liable to be damaged by fracture during a storm ; sometimes they contract rot in the centre of the stem, while others are afl'ected with ring-shake, star-shake, and section-shake, any or all of which damage the timber to a serious extent, and consequently lessen its value in the market. It therefore follows that when trees are allowed to stand for an unnecessary length of time after they have attained their full size, the risk of loss is thereby augmented to a large extent, and this should always be guarded against by felling and disposing of them at the proper time. When cutting up old Scotch Fir trees in the natural forest I found the wood to be generally of a hard, firm tex- ture, but not so elastic as that of trees of from sixty to eighty years' growth. Some of these old trees were likewise damaged by section- shake ; whereas had they been cut at the proper time, the wood in all probability would have been perfectly sound. J. B. AVebster. Finus ponderosa. — Some time ago I gave in your paper a short description of the Pinus ponderosa as I saw it growing in the Kootenay Valley, British Columbia, and it may interest your readers to know that the opinion I then formed of it as a good timber tree is fully borne out by a report of my friend, Mr. Baillie-Grohman, who says, speaking of the Kootenay Valley : — The prevailing Pine timber (Pinus ponderosa) is, so far as I can learn, nowhere else in Canada cut for commercial purposes, its geographical distribution being very limited. Our millwright and other experts pronounce the timber which this tree furnishes to be of excellent quality, almost as good as that of the famous white Pine (Pinus Strobus), which is getting so rare, and which fetches £12 per 1000 feet. I caused one of the largest trees to be cut down so as to get accui-ate figures. It girthed 20 feet 4 inches, and con- tained thirteen sound logs of 12 feet each in length, and would furnish 8000 feet of timber, so that this tree when sawn returns us something like £2G net profit. — Thomas Bate, Kehierion. Destroying tree stumps. — You have on more than one occasion fully described the American method of destroying tree stumps, viz., by boring an 18-inch hole with a l|-inch anger, putting \\ ozs. of saltpetre in the hole, filling up with water, plugging and leaving for say six months, after which time the plug to be removed, and the cavity filled with petroleum ; the petroleum to be ignited, and the stump to smoulder away to the tips of the roots. All these instructions I have carried out to the letter, up to the point of lighting the oil, and nothing has happened beyond a very slight charring of the wood around the mouth of the hole. As I am experimenting upon some thirty or forty large stumps, I shall be greatly obliged to any of your readers who can not only inform me why I have so far failed, but who can also tell me what further steps are required. It seems to me that some im- portant point has been left out in the instructions, and that possibly the petroleum ought to be allowed a certain time to thoroughly permeate the wood. Failing any advice from your readers, this is what I shall try, for, having gone so far with the experi- ment, I do not like being beaten. — A. K. DECLINE OF BRITISH FORESTRY. The Select Parliamentary Committee's report on the conditions and prospects of British forestry has lately been issued, and the general and unanimous conclusions arrived at are to the efEect that our " woods and plantations " are neither sufficiently extensive, nor remunerative, nor in a satisfactory condition ; that for climatic, social, and economical reasons, and especially on account of the importance of tree planting as an accessory to agriculture, our woodlands might be, and should be greatly extended — the subject being described as " one of great im- portance and well worthy of early consideration.' Such is the report, condensed, as to the condition of British forestry, and as to what should be done in the future. What has actually been going on for years, and what is taking place at the present time under the long-continued adverse influences of de- pressed trade on the one hand and foreign competi- tion on the other, I shall endeavour to describe. There is nothing more certainly proved than that climate depends, more than anything else, on the physical configuration and condition of the land. It is equally certain that the destruction of the natural forests has been followed quickly by drought in summer, greater cold in winter, and consequent sterility in the land. I need only refer readers to the carefully prepared transactions of the Scottish Meteorological Society to see for themselves how much the rainfall and temperature vary in different parts of the country not far apart, and due, so far as we know, wholly to the physical features of the land. It is well known that trees encourage moisture and increase the rainfall. What I wish to show now is that our woodlands are being destroyed at a rapid rate, and nothing, or next to nothing being put back in their place, except here and there on a few large estates ; that this destruction has been going on for years, and is likely to continue at an increased rate as trade is at present. I will not say how much the phenomenal seasons we have lately had have brought this about, but recent droughts have this peculiar feature about them, viz., that they do not consist of " dry summers" only, but have been caused by a light rainfall pretty evenly spread over the whole year — winter as well as summer — hence the low re- servoirs not yet nearly filled— an unparalleled state of things. According to the agricultural returns published by the Privy Council office for the ten years ending 1881, the average annual increase in our " woods and plantations" was only about 1 { per cent., but as immense quantities of mature timber were sold during the same period, this gain, small as it is, is converted into a loss, and I have no doubt that I am well within the mark in sajing that during these ten years our woods were not added to, but greatly reduced in extent. For practical purposes the Privy Council records are valueless. It we had even an approximate idea of the quantity of timber in the country, instead of the acreage, and if the returns gave the quantity of timber removed, as well as added, we could get at it better. And this is not the worst. The Privy Council records from 1 881 till the present year give no increase whatever in our woods and plantations, while it is well known that millions of feet of mature timber, of which we have no record, have been cut during the same period . The quanti ty of timber that has been felled and sold during this period, I have reason to believe, is in excess of any quantity recorded in previous years. The turnover for years has been heavy be- cause of the depression in land. This is especially the case in regard to small proprietors, numbers of whom have been compelled to sell their timber to meet the pressing obligations without putting a tree back in the shape of young plantations. In Ireland, as might be expected, things are worse, according to the Timber Trades Journal 22 THE GARDEN. one of the best informed papers in the country. A few weeks back it stated that : — From causes which it is not onr province to discuss, owners of growing timber have in many cases realised it in vast quantities — in fact, have denuded their land "without any regard to reaiforesting. This only shows how necessary it is, in a matter which affects the whole community, that some controlUng power should be exer- cised in order to enforce a policy of reproduction. Timber trees are not like some products of Nature. The cornfield can be restored in a single season, but how different with the Oak and the Ash ti-ee, which require for their full restoration almost a whole cen- tury. That timber is a material indispensable in the industries which minister to the wants of all, goes without saying ; it is, therefore, on this ground alone, were there no other, incumbent on the authorities to enforce, if necessary, proper methods for reproducing those patriarchs of the forest which are removed with thoughtless inconsideration by many owners. Their removal cannot be objected to if judiciously carried out, hut that which it is needful to object to is the utter disregard on many estates, in this as well as in other countries, to the necessity of replacing them. It is also just as injurious to withhold from the market timber that has become matured, and which after that period deteriorates in quality, as it is to strip the land of its timber and withhold the means of supplying future generations with the same material. That the planting of forest trees in Ireland has been practically suspended for many years, owing to the unsettled state of the country, is a fact well known to foresters and nurserymen, and no one need wonder at owners disposing of what native timber they possess in order to pay their debts and meet their wants. In some cases the woods are the only security the creditors have got. In Ireland it is the large proprietors only that do plant or have planted, and if ever they withdraw from the country the much-talked-of " reafforestation of Ireland " is hopeless, unless the nation does it. In Scotland planting has practically ceased. As in Ireland, felling timber is the order of the day, where the cost of transport leaves the smallest margin, and even in such cases trade reports state that owing to the supply being in excess of the de- mand prices are kept to their lowest limit. In out- of-the-way districts forest windfalls, amounting to hundreds of thousands of feet of timber, have for years been lying rotting in woods, and cannot be given away, as the cost of carriage alone would ex- ceed the price of foreign timber delivered at the spot. Trade reports for Scotland state that since the season for cutting down began, felling has been pursued with great vigour on many estates, as if it was who to be first in the market, and that we should shortly have more than a sufficient supply of all kinds of timber thrown on the market. So handicapped are the producers of home-grown timber by foreign competitionandcarriagerates, that owners near railways and canals, and not far from consumers, can alone hope to realise a margin, and that margin, if measured by a debtor and creditor's account, would in few cases cover the cost of pro- duction. Favoured by much lower wages, cheaper inland transit, little or no expense of production in his natural or semi-natural forest, and by low freights and railway charges, the foreign timber dealer can underbid the most favourably situated timber grower in Great Britain, and at the same time deliver his timber in a prepared or partially pre- pared state, while owners of woods far from rail- ways or wharves here cannot enter the lists on any terms. Is it to be wondered, then, when we con- sider that British forestry depends almost wholly on private enterprise, that proprietors should decline to invest money in planting trees that at the best of times yielded but slender return, and which now hold out no prospect of return whatever? If our woods are to be maintained, aid Hvill have to be given to planters at the beginning or protection at the other end, because while timber-growing does not pay it is idle trying to persuade landowners to invest their money in such a hopeless enterprise. A word must be said for owners of large estates, and that is that to them almost wholly belongs the credit of having created what woods and planta- tions we have in this country. Were there any prospects of better prices, it would jiay to allow healthy timber to stand ; but no such prospect exists [Jan. 7, 1888. while our market is glutted with foreign supplies of woodwork of all descriptions, and pressed by cir- cumstances over which he has no control, the jiro- duoer of British timber is forced to dispose of it for what it will fetch, hence the large turnover which does not denote good trade, but absolute depression of the most marked description. One thing which presses heavy upon owners of English timber is the cost of transport by road and rail. The railway charges alone, in not a few in- stances, turn the scale in favour of the foreigner, as may be guessed when I state that a ton of timber shipped to Grimsby from Norway can be delivered at Sheffield for considerably less than it would cost to take one ton of English timber from Sheffield to Grimsby ; and when you consider that the cost of fell- ing and transport from our woods to the nearest rail- way station amounts on the average to about 10s. per ton, exclusive of loading and wharf charges, it will be understood how heavily handicapped the English dealer is under the most favourable circum- stances, and why owners of timber in remote places are simply out of the running, and have no interest in caring for the woods they have, let alone adding to them. At one time our collieries used more English timber than any other, and it was nothing unusual for one colliery to buy whole falls of timber for its own use, but these days are gone by, and now foreign timber is almost exclusively used for props and other purposes, and In some collieries not a foot of English timber is admitted. Nor is it " raw material " in the shape of round timber of which the foreign timber consists, but of timber either prepared ready for use, as in the case of pit props, or partially prepared, as in the case of logs, planks, deals, i:c. Notwithstanding all these drawbacks, there is no- thing left for the owners of English timber but to sell it when they can, especially timber that is ma- ture and not increasing in bulk, or that is decaying, as much of it is, because the money so realised can be invested to better purpose. The only hope for better times the Select Committee's report holds out for home-grown timber is "the waste of forests else- where ; "but that is such a remote possibility, and as- sumes such a want of foresight on the part of foreign Governments whose timber trade is of so much consequence to them, that I do not think such an argument is worth listening to. What kind of timber we should grow in the future to realise a price it is difficult to say. Such changes occur, and iron and steel are being so much used instead of wood; and foreign competition is blocking up every chaimel of demand in both the raw and manufac- tured condition. With regard to the Forestry Committee's report, it really states nothing that was not known before regarding British forestry, while it has missed the real point in not pointing out that so long as timber growing depends on private enterprise, and there is no prospect of it paying, it is unreasonable to expect landowners to plant trees. Either the planter must have a premium at the beginning or protection at the other end, or else the Government must take the woods under its own care. Large landowners have planted much from philanthropical motives in the past, not a penny of the value of which they will ever get back, and they would be foolish to spend more under present conditions while they can invest their money to better purpose, while, should the nation ever take the matter up, it is to be hoped it will manage our woods better than it does the limited area of woods it has under its care now through its Parliamentary representatives. The most telling and sensible paragraph in the Select Committee's report is that written by Mr. Lascelles, the deputy surveyor, on the present un- satisfactory condition of the New Forest, managed by Acts of Parliament. lie writes: — There are to bo seen, by the student of forestry, over K),0(IO acres of waste land lying idle atul worthless. But by Clause .5 of the Act of lh77 no planting may be done there. He will see several fine plantations of Oak, which are not only ripe and mature, but which are going back rapidly, and he will wonder why the crop is not realised and the gi'ound replanted, till be is referred to Clause Gof the same Act, by which ho will see that the gruuncl may not be cleared of the crop. Last, and worst of all, he will see some 4600 acres of most beautiful old woods in the country, most of which are dying back, and steadily going to wi-eck and ruin. But here again absolutely nothinglcan be done. . . It is sad to see them dying out, when all that is required to preserve them for future generations is to imitate the wisdom of those who made them at first, and by simply protecting, by enclosing them and removing dead trees, leave it to Nature to perpetuate them. . . . Those who framed the New Forest Act of 1877 desired to conserve these old woods, but their zeal seems to have carried them so far as to defeat the object they had in view ; and I cannot but think that had forestry been a science commonly taught in the past, as I trust it may be in the future, owing to the result of this inquiry, no such clause could ever have found a place in an Act of Parliament dealing with woodlands. The object of the Act of ^ 1877 no doubt was that the forest should be maintained in a state of natural beauty ; and as the efl'ect now appears to be to defeat this very object, the present condition of the forest demands the serious at- tention of the Government. I need say nothing of the loss to the labouring classes by the backward state of our forestry. On all estates the woods have always employed a large number of both men and horses, &c., which, in turn, helped other trades, but all over the country these have been reduced to the lowest number, while in some cases I could name, not a man is em- ployed. The woods are simply left to take care of themselves unless someone cares to buy when It (the timber) is sold standing at the purchaser's risk. —J. Simpson, Wood Agent, Wortletj Hall, Sheffield, in the Sheffield Daily Telegraph. Avenue in bad condition.— In The Gabden of December 24 (p. 594) " R. L. A." says :— I shall be much obliged it one of your corre- spondents will be good enough to inform me where 1 can get information as to the proper treatment of our avenue here. The part through the wood is in bad condition, though successive layers of gravel have been applied to it. Ought it to be broken up and a layer of broken stones, followed by gravel, be used 't Avenue roads through woods are often kept in a damp, wet state by the proximity of trees in the immediate vicinity excluding the rays of the sun and the free circulation of the wind to carry off surface moisture. Under such conditions, and in order to have a dry, firm road, it is absolutely necessary to have it properly macadamised with broken stones. Strip off the gravel on the surface to a sufficient depth, and apply a good coat of road metal ; spread out the stones in a uniform manner, allowing them to be rather higher in the centre of the road than on the sides in order that the surface water may run oif ; replace the gravel re- moved, and press the whole firmly together by a heavy stone roller. Smooth water-worn stones should not be used for road metal, as they never grip to make a firm road, and are always liable to shift by the pressure of wheels. It sometimes occurs that roads are damaged by the presence of subsoil water underneath ; this may be known by digging a few test holes here and there along the sides of the road, and if these should attract and retain any consider- able quantity of water, it shows clearly that the subsoil is wet and requires draining. When such is the cas4, cut a drain right along the centre of the road, lay a tile pipe along the bottom, fill up with stones, and finish in the way recommended above. When tree roots extend across the road they should be cut through at the sides of the road where they occur otherwise they will soon choke the drain and render it useless.— J. B. Webster. ■ ■ A correspondent complains of his avenue being in bad condition, and asks what to do. My avenue is in the same plight, and is caused by the roots of the trees growing out under it, and when the trees are disturbed by wind they shake up the ground and prevent the stones and gravel from keeping as hard and united as they otherwise would, ^'our correspondent must remove the roots, or put up with the evil. — T. W. Bbowninc, Carass Conrt, f 'mom, Ireland. What is the value of pond leaf-soil ?— C in any of your readers inform me what manurial pro- perties are contained in decayed leaf matter taken from a pond ? I have some hundreds of loads already stacked, but a really experienced gardener informs me that it is of no value. The ptmd contained no real mud, only decayed leaves. — A. K., Bentley Priory. THE GARDEN. 23 No. 843. SATURDAY Jan. 14,7888. Vol. XXXIII. " This Is an Art Which does mend Nature : chane;e it rather ; The Art itself is Nature." — Shakespeare. but THE CHINESE PRIMROSE. There is an exceptlingly good coloured plate of this plant in the Botanical Magazine (tab. 2546), and we are told that " this beautiful acquisition to our greenhouses was received from China and first cultivated in our greenhouses by Mr. Thomas C. Palmer, of Bromley, in Kent. " Mr. Palmer stated that it was generally considered shy in producing seeds, and remarked that im- pregnation was assisted by blowing into the flower. He treated it as a very hardy green- house plant, and found out that it was liable to rot oft' at the crown. The plant from which the drawing was taken flowered with Mr. Joseph Knight in the King's Road, Chelsea, in April, 1824. In 1825, a large collection of plants was cultivated at the Horticultural Society's esta- blishment at Chiswick. The flowers were stated to be purplish crimson, the segments of the corolla being deeply notched and separated from each other. The above historical remarks are appropriate at the present time, when our greenhouses are gay with the exquisitely beauti- ful varieties which have been produced during the past sixty years from this Chinese species. The horticultural public were startled in the early weeks of the past year by the wonderful exhibition made at South Kensington by several of the leading growers, notably Messrs. Sutton and Sons, of Reading, who obtained no less than six first-class certificates from the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural Society. They had evidently been growing and working up the various strains for several years, as numerous plants were exhibited of each type. The blue-flowered varieties were very conspicu- ous, especially two semi-double kinds ; perhaps the varieties exhibited produced flowers of as nearly a blue colour as anything we have yet seen ; the colour is a ))urplish blue or lilac-blue ; one variety had Fern leaves, the others had them of the usual form. Perhaps the blue varieties with well-formed single flowers would have most admirers. There were also double scarlet and double rose-coloured forms remarkable for their rich and pleasing tints. The variety with white flowers named Gip.sy Queen was quite distinct. It had well-formed flowers on a compact, handsome truss, the leaf- stalks being deep red, the leaves a rich dark green colour. I fancy the first white variety with red kaf-stalks was Waltham White, sent out by Mr. William Paul quite twenty years ago. It was propagated by cuttings or division, and may even yet be in cultivation. There was also a variety with large, well-formed, salmony rose-colourtd flowers named Rosy Queen, of surpassing excellence. The white varieties have been greatly improved. At the February meet- ing there were no less than three distinct white varieties exhibited. White Perfection, from Messrs. Cannell, of Swanley, was certificated a second time by inadvertence. Purity, from Mr. James, of Farnham Royal, and Snowflake, from Messrs. Veitch, were examples of the highest point of excellence yet attained in the white forms with green leaf-ttalks. In the last month of the old year some excellent va- rieties were exhibited by Messrs. Cannell and Mr. James. Bridesmaid, shown by the first- named, had very pleasing rosy pink flowers, and was thought worthy of the highest award given for new plants. Messrs. Cannell have also greatly improved the crimson flowt-red type. Mr. .lames had crimson-flowered varieties and his usual fine white strain Messrs. Carter, of High Holborn, also exhibited a fine collection in all the colours I have named, and it shows the esteem in which these beautiful winter flowers are held when so many of our be.st horticulturists vie with each other to obtain the richest and most varied forms, and who also grow them so well, for a great deal consists in the way in which the plants are grown. The largest proportion of them are raised from seeds, and when the plants have produced their flowers they are destroyed. But these plants can also be well grown from cuttings, and if they receive the proper treatment are very easily managed. A seedling plant is usually more vigorous than a propagated one, and when the seeds have been saved from the very best strain of plants, one may reasonably expect that, if many of the seedlings are not so good as the parents, some of them will be as good, and a few are likely to be superior. In fact, it is the pleasurable excitement of watching the flowering of the seedlings that is one of the charms of this branch of floriculture. The seeds may be sown at any time between the flrst week in March and the end of July. The latest sown will flower well in March and April, but of course it is as winter flowering plants that they are most valued ; and they make a truly beautiful display, whether it is the rich red and crimson or softer shades of rose and pink, as well as the pure white forms. They are free-growing plants if they have some rich open compost, such as good loam, leaf-mould, and decayed stable manure. They dislike a high temperature, but a low, damp atmosphere in winter will cause some of the plants to damp oft at the neck. Our plants intended to flower in March are now in a span-roofed house, the tem- perature of which at night is from 45" to 50°. They are showing their flower-buds and growing very vigorously. The plants are placed near the glass, and they receive plenty of light and air. This is quite essential to the development of all such plants as these ; in fact, it is owing to the want of light and air that they succeed badly in small gardens. Many persons attend the exhibitions of flowers in autumn, winter, and spring, and see these Primulas far more beauti- ful than any they can produce in their own gardens, and feel rather disappointed, and wonder how they, too, cannot obtain similar results. The fact is, it is all a matter of house accommodation. The plants seen at flower shows may have been grown in a house set apart for the culture of Primulas only, and it is quite impossible to grow such examples in an ordinary greenhouse, mixed up, as they must be, with a mi-i-cellaneous collection of other things, and perhaps at a long distance from the glass. The production of plants from seeds is easily managed, and the details of the work are known in every garden. Propagation from cuttings is not so well known, but the various operations are not difticult. Duiing the early summer months is a good time to attend to this work, as then the old plants will have finished flowering. If they are also bearing seeds, propagation must be delayed until these have well ripened. Place the pots containing the plants on a shelf near the glas?, and allow the soil to become quite dry, because if the juices of the plants are not Well dried up the cuttings are likely to damp oft'. Each cutting should be cut clean across the stem under a leaf, and be laid out to dry for an hour before planting it in a 2i-inch pot, using fine sandy soil. This ought to be mode- rately moist, as it is better not to water the cuttings for a week at least after they have been put in. Place them in a hand-light, plunging the pots to the rim in Cocoa-fibre refuse, which will aid in retaining the moisture. The lights must be kept quite close over them until roots have been formed ; in fact, I do not ore to water them at all until they are rooted, and as they will not all produce roi^ts at one time, the rooted ones must be removed from the others and be placed in another hand-light where moi'e air is admitted. J. Douglas. Chrysanthemums. E. MOLYNEDX. MANAGEMENT OP CUTTINGS. Those cuttings inserted at the time previ- ously advised will now be forming roots; in fact, the earliest and strongest-growing kinds will have rooted, and should be removed from the handlights to a position nearer the glass where the growth will become stocky. The plants previously having had more air given them will now bear exposure without flagging, but where they are removed direct from the handlights to shelves nearer the glass without first having had air given them to gradually harden the growth, the leaves are sure to flag. The varieties when they are well rooted should be thinned out in the handlights. The position they are to occupy is the next consideration. No better place can be found for them than on a shelf suspended from the rafters of the house ; in this way the plants being nearer the top of the house more air is able to play about them than if they were standing on the stages. Any house from which frost is simply excluded answers well ; in fact, they are much better in such a temperature, as growth is more steady and solid. If the house is not provided with shelves, temporary ones can easily be put up by suspending them from the rafters by means of strong wire and screws. The shelves may be about 9 inches wide, according to circumstances, and on each side there should be a groove to run the water ofl' to one end, which can easily be done by allowing a slight slope in fixing the shelves ; any plants standing underneath the Chrysanthemums are not then splashed by the water given to those overhead. When the plants are placed in this position great care will be necessary in supplying them with water as required. The pots being small and the plants receiving more air, they become dry sooner than when standing in the handlights ; there- fore, an examination of each should be made daily to ascertain if water is needed. On the shelves the plants should not be crowded. It is far better, instead of growing so many that overcrowding has to be resorted to, to confine the number to a reasonable limit ; the leaves of each plant should not overlap those of its neighbour ; in this way a free circulation of air can get amongst the plants. Where the method of striking the cuttings in a cold frame singly in pots, or by pricking out the cuttings in rows in prepared soil is followed, roots will now be forming. The pricked-out plants being probably the first to show signs of new growth, air should be admitted to both batches of plants to dry up superfluous mois- ture, gradually at first, until it can be in- creased daily. At present, if the lights are tilted on one side, by supporting them with a wedge, say 2 inches thick, for an hour in the middle of the day until the leaves are dry, the plants begin to grow, when a little air should be given daily and throughout the greater part of the day. Any leaves which show signs of 24 THE GARDEN. damping should be removed, then with improve*^ atmospheric conditions damping off of the leaves will be checked, and, as the plants make roots, will entirely disappear if treatment is adopted to prevent a stagnant atmosphere. Propagation of the large-flowered varieties, Japanese, in- curved, reflexed, and Anemone-flowered kinds, will by this time be complete, except for bush or decorative plants. When it can be seen that the cuttings pre- yiously inserted are certain to grow, no object is gained by allowing old stools to remain in the houses or frames where the room is per- haps required for other things. Such old plants are well adapted for planting at the foot of walls'or in the herbaceous or shrubbery borders. If this is the intention of the cultivator, any plants which have a profusion of growths spring- ing from the base of each should have such growths thinned out to about eight on each plant. Any sheltered spot at the foot of a south wall, where a mat can be thrown over them in the event of frost if the frames are required for other things, will suit them, other- wise the cold frames are perhaps the safest quarters for the plants for two months yet ; but where 'space is limited such means may be employed to preserve them safely. ; striking Chryaanthemum cuttings in heat.— I do not doubt that those who give directions for the striking of Chrysanthemums in unheated pits and cool greenhouses are recording their own practice, and state fairly the results obtained from it ; but when I have made the attempt to strike the Chry.-anthemums in mid-winter in cold houses, it has taken a long while to get the plants rooted, much longer, in fact, than the time stated by some growers to be necessary. For that reason I now place the cuttings in a warm house, and the plants are as leafy and give as fine flowers as those from cuttings struck in a cold frame. I always get the cuttings rooted as early as possible, but when the stock plants have to stand in the conservatory until near Christmas, the rising suckers often become so much drawn that it is a difficult matter to find any strong enough to make into cuttings. One often, in fact, has to wait until they get hardened. I now strike my stock in a temperature of from 55° to 60°, and all the cuttings it is possible to obtain I put in by the middle of December, and those that are taken after I strike on a good bottom heat. I am not, however, advocating the late propagation of the plants or the use of bottom heat when there is time to strike the cuttings without it; all that I wish to show is that there is not so much risk in striking the cuttings in heat as some seem to think.— J. C. C. Sweet-scented Chrysanthemums.— Perhaps it is my love for the Chrysanthemum which makes me blmd to its failings. But, certainly, I cannot see any great fault in its not being what is termed "sweet-scented," and I must enter my protest against its perfume being called disagreeable. I do not say it possesses such scent as we find in the Rose, Carnation, Violet, &c., but, strange as it may appear to "E. C," in The Gaeden, January 7 (p. 9), I, like Mr. Barbidge, think the scent of Chrysanthemums " sweet and aromatic." I often take a good long sniff at the blooms, especially when they first open in the autumn. To me there is something refreshing in their distinct perfume. But if not pleasant to everyone alike, it is not strong enougfi to be disagreeable. One may admire a house full of plants in bloom and not detect any particular scent, unless brought into close contact with them, or quantities may be placed in a room in a cut state without any inconvenience arising from an overpowering perfume, as is the case with some flowers. I do not think " sweet scent "—other than that which is characteristic of the plant— will ever be developed to any extent in the Chrysanthe- mum. True, there are a few varieties with a faint perfume, somewhat resembling that of Violets, but they would seem to have derived it by a freak ox [Jan. 14, 1888. nature, and from their being old varieties, one would suppose if " sweet scent " was to become one of the qualities of the Chrysanthemum it would be- fore this have been developed in it more extensively that is at present the case. Some of the single varieties are said to be "sweet-scented," but I think, as a rule, all single flowers are of stronger perfume than double ones. — A. Baekeb. Orchids. W. H. OOWEB. MICROSTYLIS. This genus comprises a good number of species, about a dozen of which are in cultivation, al- though not generally known, but I have had numerous inquiries for them during the past season, by which I infer that the taste for hand- some-leaved Orchids is reviving again. I venture to hope that we may again be able to feast our eyes upon the beauties of such plants as AnsectochUus, Physurus, and Goodyeras, as we were wont in days gone by. There are but few species of Microstylis which produce con- spicuous flowers, but the majority of them, re- markable for the beauty of their leaves, are all dwarf in habit, and their general contour is so distinct, that they are well deserving more general attention. The cultivation of these plants is extremely simple. They all form more or less stem-like pseudo-bulbs, from which the leaves fall annually; the soil should be rough peat and Sphagnum Moss ; the drainage must be ample, as they enjoy copious supplies of water during the summer; the atmosphere must also be kept well charged with moisture. Wliilst thus treated they should be well exposed to light and air, but I do not think they like too much sunshine. The following are some of the principal kinds which have come under my notice, but long descriptions of them are need- less : — M. METALLICA. — I recently saw at the Messrs. Low and Co.'s Clapton nurseries quantities of newly- imported plants of this species, which fact affords an ample proof that whatever plants are in demand the nurserymen are always ready to import and supply the amateur with. The species in question attains the height of about 8 inches ; the leaves are plaited, slightly undulate on the margin, the upper surface of a deep metallic-purple, whilst beneath this colour extends to the petioles, and is suflEused with a rose hue. The spikes are erect, and bear a profusion of inconspicuous, curiously-shaped, pale pink flowers. It comes from Borneo. M. PURPUREA. — The leaves of this plant are ovate, some 4 inches long and nearly 2 inches across, much undulated on the margin, the upper surface being rich, deep crimson-purple, while beneath they are of a reddish hue. The flowers are small, yellowish-purple. Ceylon. M. Josephine. — In this we have a member of the genus which is deserving of cultivation for the beauty of its blossoms. It forms a rather stout pseudo-bulb, which is somewhat oblong in shape and about 4 inches high. The leaves are upwards of 6 inches long, the upper surface being of a bronzy-copper hue, the lower surface green. The scape is terminal and erect, bearing from nine to twelve globose flowers, which are nearly 1 inch across ; the ground colour is yellow, suffused with a coppery tinge, and the lip, in addition, is blotched with reddish-brown. It comes from Sikkim. M. Lowi is a plant with lanceolate-acuminate leaves, the margins much undulated, upper surface reddish-brown, bearing a broad central band of metallic grey, petioles and under side rosy-pink. The flowers of this plant I have not seen. It comes from Borneo. M. CHLOROPiiRYS.- The whole of the upper sur- face of the leaves of this handsome plant is of a rich bronzy-purple, bordered with light green, the under side being dull purple, the flowers orange- yellow and purple. Borneo. M. DISCOLOR. — An elegant,[somewhat small-grow- ing species from Ceylon. The leaves are about 4 inches long, upper sturface rich, deep reddish- purple, narrowly bordered with light green. Scape erect, many-flowered, the flowers small, rich yellow, changing with age to deep orange. One of the most beautiful kinds with which I am acquainted. Other species of this genus are M. bella, Wallichi, Rheedi, calophyUa, &c. W. H. G. Vanda teres.— Many fail with this Orchid, but Mr. Roberts, at Gunnersbury Park, grows it with conspicuous success, and when it can be induced to give a profusion of flowers this is a grand species. The specimens are planted out in a bed formed by first placing in the bottom a layer of crocks, 3 inches or 4 inches in thickness, and over this a 4-inch layer of Sphagnum Moss. They are planted in this, and during the summer a night temperature of 75° is maintained, the day temperature varying, of course, with the sun heat, the thermometer sometimes registering as high as 120". The lights are closed in the afternoon, and syringing is given to create a humid atmosphere, such as this Sylhet Orchid revels in. The plants are put out at the end of May and this season they have made strong, healthy growths over 2 feet in length, and this is due partly to the heat, and partly to the abundance of moisture. During the winter the plants are kept dry, but moisture is again supplied when the flower-spikes appear, and sometimes the blooming season com- mences in April, though the usual time as recorded in the books is from June to August. The plants are cut down every year to. within about 15 inches or 16 inches of the base, and the small pieces at the bottom are inserted three or four together in pots and these supply the material for the bed for the following year. This practice, judging by the splendid results obtained, is worth following. It is simple, practical, profitable, which is not always the case when this Vanda is grown in pots. The plants promise to fiower unusually well this year. Grubs destroying Cattleya shoots.— I for- ward you some insects found on the young growths of Cattleyas, and from the destructive manner they do their work I think they will completely destroy every plant. Each young growth when about an inch long swells at the base, gets very pointed at the top, and turns reddish brown. I have opened several growths, and have found from five to ten insects inside, they having completely scooped out the centre. Hoping you can give me some informa- tion respecting it and the means to eradicate it. — F. Newman. * inches long, and stout, cylindrical in shape, inflated towards the base, broadly winged, and ciliated in front ; ground colour reddish crimson, marbled and spotted with yellow ; rim of mouth closely ribbed, some of these being blackish purple and others red. N. Dormanniana, a fine bold variety with pitchers (! inches long, dark crimson, marbled with greenish yellow. Other fine forms specially notable were N. Findlayana, Ratcliffiana, Hibberdi, coccinea, &c. In Mr. James's nursery at South Norwood Nepen- thes are exceedingly well done, although the quan- tity grown is much smaller than at the establish- ments of Messrs. Veitch and Mr. Williams. Here I noted some extra fine forms of X. Ma.stersiana in several varieties well pitchered, N. KalUesiana, N. Hookeriana, and the rare X. Nortliiana, and the curious X. ampullacea vittata, which had a cluster of several dozen pitchers upon the small lateral shoots at the base of the stem. In this place I am told it is the custom to grow the plants in a com- post of peat and loam, which, judging Ijy the re- sult, is quite suitable. N. Kafllesiana insignis of Mr. William Ball appears to be a very large and richly-coloured form; the pitchers are upwards of '.< inches long and much dilated at the base, broadly winged and ciliated in front ; the green ground colour is profusely marbled and blotched with pur- plish crimson and brown, rendering it a very showy variety. W. H. G. same time. To show you that it will bloom in mid- winter, I send you a spray of flower from a plant that has not been grown with any particular care. My plant has not had skilful culture, so that the flowers are not so good as they would be, but you will be able to judge of its merits. It is a stove plant, but does better in the cool end of such a structure than when exposed to more heat, and, except that large plants are more effective than small ones, it is as well adapted for small houses as those of large .size. The plants commence to flower when not more than (5 inches high. The tops of half ripened shoots strike very freely in the propa- gating pit, and with liberal culture large plants may be obtained in twelve months. While in active growth the young shoots may be stopped to induce a bushy growth, but the less stopping they have the longer the flower-spikes are. Medium-sized speci- mens are best obtained by giving the plants a rest as soon as they go out of flower, keeping the roots moderately dry, and placing the plants in an inter- mediate temperature until the end of March. They should then be pruned back rather hard and returned to the stove again. As soon as the young growth is about 2 inches long, the plants should be shifted into pots two sizes larger, as it is a strong- rooting subject. Give the plants, while making growth, the most airy part of the stove, and place a thin shade on the glass. When untrained the plants bear larger and a greater quantity of flowers. If, after the growth has extended from 1 foot to IS inches long, the plants are placed in a cool house, and where they can get more air, the result is much more satisfactory than when the plants are kept in a high temperature until they come into flower.— J. C. C. P. staminea, with long deep red flowers depending from a spike 2 feet high. Another of more modest growth, named P.muscosa, has showy scarlet flowers. The favourite old iKchmea fulgens has clusters of scarlet crab's-eye-like flowers. JE. Weilbachi, whose sepals, chameleon-like, turn from blue to purple, purple to bronze, and then to sooty black, has long been in bloom ; and so has the Parrot Til- landsia (T. psittacina), arrayed in scarlet and gold. Every day sees some new addition to the flowering plants, so that those interested in the family will be sure to see some in bloom for some time to come. W. G. Jasxiinum hirautum. — You speak of figuring the scarlet Spurge (l'.uph par- ticular variety of Peach results in the failure of every bud inserted ; whilst another variety will produce cent, per cent, of maidens of the finest quality, and this upon kindred stocks on the same quarter. To the majority of buyers of fruit trees these vagaries are unknown, but the nurseryman is well acquainted with the fact ; and although a clever propagator will convert roots and leaves, as well as buds and cuttings, into rooted plants, some, I am told, positively refuse to insert the buds of certain varieties of Peaches upon certain sorts of stocks, because they know they will not suit them. If Peaches and Nectarines, which are so closely allied, have their likes and dislikes in the matter of the two or three sorts of stocks invariably used, how can we expect Apples and Pears to turn out satisfactorily when any member of the Pyrus family that will grow from a pip or cutting is pressed into the propagator's service \ If the Englishman wishes his Apples and Pears to attain the dimensions of forest trees, he works them on the Crab or the wild Pear, and the Frenchman, on a warmer soil than our own, buds his Peaches on the Almond ; but what the fruit grower wants is a stock which, wliilst keeping pace with the scion at the junction and producing a clean, fertile growth, will give the first size and the highest quality to the fruit. From the Quince and the Paradise we obtain our largest Pears and Apples, up to the full standard in point of quality ; but, this said, the result which follows the use of seedling stocks must be pronounced a mere bagatelle. Before we can have trees we must have stocks, and when it is known that well-ripened Apple pips grow as freely as Peas, it is not surprising that seeds from the commonest Apples and Pears go to the production of nearly all the free stocks which in due time find their way into our orchards. This being so, with proof positive before me that a good variety of stock exerts an improving influence on the fruit, I would strongly urge all raisers of stocks for Apples and Pears to reduce their haphazard mode to a system. There is hardly a garden in the country which does not produce some parti- cular kind of Apple or Pear in perfection ; in many they may be counted by the dozen ; and what, I should like to know, would be easier than saving the seeds of the best sorts for nursery purposes l Take, for instance, the old, hardy, and excellent Apples, Normanton Wonder, or Mere de Menage, as the seed-pa- rents of stocks for culinary Apples ; the hardiest and best of the Pearniains, including Claygate, for dessert sorts, and I strongly suspect that a great improvement in size, colour, and quality would be perceptible in the first geiieration. Already we have made considerable progress, 34 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 14, 1888. not only in the management of our Apple and Pear trees, but also in weeding out inferior sorts ; but until we give up going to the cider mill for our main stock of pips, the fruit from a number of trees of any one kind worked upon chance stocks will vary in many ways, and, most important of all, in quality. Seedlings. — The pips of Apples and Pears, 1 have just observed, germinate very freely, and, treated as the rosarian treats the Brier, the seedling are fit for working in about three years. These, then, should be sown annually either in pots, boxes, cold frames, or on raised beds in the open air. The experimentalist who wishes to give this method a trial on a small scale might cast the decaying fruit, together with the cores from the kitchen, into separate receptacles handy to his fruit room, and he might even go the length of keeping his stocks under name or number, whilst the grower on an extensive scale, to whom time is money, might throw them into sections only. When the pot system of raising seedlings is adopted, say of Blenheim Orange, King of the Pippins, &c. , the best time to sow is as soon as the season of the particular varieties is over and the seeds have been washed out. This, however, on a large scale in the open air would hardly answer, as mice and rats have a peculiar liking for the tannin con- tained in the pips ; therefore they should be preserved in dry sand and sown broadcast on beds in March or April. If they make fair progress, the seedlings wdl be fit for planting out early in the following autumn, and at the end of the second they should be taken up, sized, and again transplanted. By this means the best would always be kept to the front, whilst the inferior miglit come on for succession or be destroyed. Pear Easter Beurre. — Some excellent Easter Beurre Pears have been sent us by Mr. J. Crook, of Fariiborough Grange. There can be no doubt that this is one of the best Pears in the world, but we will not let it into our list of standard sorts, because it does not ripen well generally in England, and even those that Mr. Crook kindly sends us have not the flavour of those ripened in France. Mr. Garcia informs us that very fine sam- ples of Easter Beurre Pears have lately come to our market from California— lA lbs. each in weight and perfectly grown. What is the use of English gardeners trying to grow Easter Beurre in the face of cultivation like this? That a Pear is first- rate in France or America is no proof that it will grow and ripen in our climate. The enormous number of Pears raised by the French and Belgians are only worth growing to find out which of them come to perfect condition in our country— like Doyenne du Cornice. What we want is to find Pears perfect here. Easter Beurre may be grown in England sometimes, but seldom good. So of the true Duchess, which comes from the west of France in such fine quality. Apple Cornish Gilliflower. — According to what one reads, the character of tliis Apple must vary a good deal in different places. With us in Somerset the cropping qualities are all that could be desired when the tree is grown in the form of a bush, as it bears both regularly and well, but it is only second-rate in quality, the flesh being too firm. Whether it is owing to onr strong soil, or not, I can- not say, but the flavour is never first-rate, even when the fruits are kept until the beginning of April. The longer it is kept the better flavoured it is, bat of late years we have used it as a cooking Apple. — J. c c Pear Winter Nelis in Scotland.— Thi^ is our best and most constant bearing winter Pear, and for quality is preferred to any other varietv at this season. I enclose a few fruits, that you may compare the flavour with those received frorii the more fouthern parts of the country. The tree from which these were gathered is against a south- east wall, and is grafted upon the strong growing Beuri(5 d'Amanlis. This was done to infuse greater vigour and to increase the size of the fruit, but does not appear to have done either, as the branches and spurs have the same weakly appearance, and the fruit buds are produced as abundantly as when single grafted. — James Day, Gallon ay House, tiar- liesinn, A'.B. If this Pear will not grow with Mr. Douglas, it grows uncommonly well with Mr. Crook, of Farn- borough ; but how do we know when we are told that a Pear does not do in a particular district that it has had a fair trial 7 It is well known that some Pears will not grow on the Qaince stock, and there is no fruit known, perhaps, on which soils have such an influence. A Pear of the highest quality in our country, like Winter Nelis, should not be given up because it does not do on any particular stock. It ought to be tried in different ways. When we have established the fact that a Pear will ripen over a large area in England it is a very important consi- deration. A great many of the finest Pears known will not do this, and, therefore, we may be sure we can give them up for the most part — like Duchesse d'AngouIeme and Easter Beurre. THE CAUSE OF SHANKING IN GRAPES. This disease has long been a source of agitation to many minds. It is not found among Grapes grown in the open air, and this circumstance narrows the question somewhat, as it proves that the cause must be sought for in the management of the in- terior of the vinery, or in the border containing the roots. Shanking is owing to unripe wood, says one cultivator ; it is caused by having the roots in a sour, pasty soil, says another ; it is due to over- cropping, says a third; you do not give sufficient nourishment, cries a fourth ; you pinch the growth of your Vines too much; extension is the only rational course to pursue, shouts a fifth ; and so on through the whole of the ups and downs of Vine culture. Now, there is no doubt, I think, that all the causes given above may have something to do with special cases of shanking. We know that un- ripe wood is indirectly a cause of shanking, but in tracing things to their source, we naturally ask the question, what is the cause of the wood not ripen- ing ? In nine cases out of ten we might safely assign it to the roots being in a cold, pasty border. But the question may be asked, why should Vine borders be pasty and sour? And if truthful, the answer would probably be, over manuring. A plot of land with its surface constantly sealed up all the year round with a heavy coat of manure must in the nature of things get sour in the course of time, no matter how well drained ; and therefore, I should say, one of the chief causes of shanking is the heavily-manured border. This is often the be- ginning. First, there is the gross, unripe wood, with the large, long-stalked loose bunches, and then the next season or the one after shanking sets in, and the only remedy is to lift out the roots, re- move all the sour, pasty soil, make a new border of fresh open soil, and profit by the lesson taught. Close pinching in summer by lowering the vitality of the Vines may, in some instances, be an indirect cause of shanking, and, on the other hand, I have met with cases where dryness at the root had led to the footstalks of the berries giving way at the critical moment. Shanking always appears just when stoning is about finished and the Grapes commence their last swelling. A close observer can detect a limpness in the footstalks of the berries of those Grapes which are failing in their work, and the berries will be found soft and flabby when touched. At this stage of the growth of the crop there is a heavy demand made upon the roots, and if these are in a border which is too dry, or it the energies of the roots are crippled through being surrounded by a medium that is too cold and wet for healthy action, the result will be pretty much the same, and a failure to supply proper nourishment to the bunches leads to a shrivelling up of the ducts or channels; and although the berries may hang on the bunch, they never colour or flavour properly. In some cases, if notired in time, a dressing of lime may avert the evil, and in the case of Vines which are be- ing overfed, the initiated may read in the gross wood and flabby foliage what is going on, and should take steps to correct the evils whilst there is yet time before the full mischief has been done. When shanking is caused by poverty, it is a very easy matter to stop it. I remember a case of a range of vineries some years ago where the situation was high and dry on a gravel subsoil. The Vines made splendid wood, showed good bunches, but always shanked. The gardener came to the conclusion that the Vines lacked nourishment, and he gave theiu liquid manure made from guano and various artificials, and mulched in summer, and the shank- ing gradually disappeared. But this treatment would have no beneficial effect upon Mnes in a sour, over-manured border. The remedy in this case must be a removal of the sour soil and replacing it with better stuff, enriching it with bone-meal and artificial manure, and helping its porosity with lime rubbish and crushed charcoal. Wood ashes or the bottom of the heaps where charcoal has been burned have a beneficial effect upon Vines, and tend to correct any undue acidity of the materials compos- ing the border. E. H. NOTES ON LATE PEARS. Winter Nelis. — With reference to the length of time this Pear keeps, I find that it and Glou Morceau are alike. This season I had good ri]ie fruit at the end of November, and still have it in prime con- dition. If I were only allowed to grow one kind I should select this one. I am not s) leaking of ap- pearance or size, as I think that, whatever is grown, flavour should be the first consideration. I have never known this Pear, wherever grown, to be of bad flavour. I know a large garden not far from here where many sorts are grown, and out of a very few good enough to send to the proiirietoi's table the above kind is always of first-rate quality. I grow it here on south and east walls. On the south wall the fruits are the clearest and come into use first, while those on the east wall are larger and greener, and I can perceive no difference in flavour. We have an old tree that has been yilanted many years on a north aspect, but never fruited satisfac- torily, until about six years ago I trained the shoots over the top of the wall on to the south side, where, although quiteexposed, these shoots have never failed to produce good crops of fruit. Grown as a bush, I find that Winter Nelis is not satisfactory. Al- though generally a small Pear, yet when the trees are in good condition and well thinned the fruits come of a good average size. Everyone who has room enough to grow a Pear on a wall should have a tree of this grand kind. The variety Prince Consort grown as a cordon on a south wall is only second-rate. Beune d'Aremberg grown in the same way I also find only of second quality. Ne Plus Meuris grown as an espalier comes of good size, but the fruit has the fault of dropping off the trees before the proper time, and in conse- quence is only fit for stewing. I have tried various methods to prevent this dropping, but have never succeeded as I should wish. This season I frequently watered the trees during the summer, and in this way was able to keep the fruit on much longer. The result of this treatment has been that some of the fruit which hung the longest have ripened and are of good flavour. I shall be glad if any reader will tell me the cause of this, as it is very annoying to lose a crop in this way. Zephirin Gregoire as a bush is here disappointing, although I have found it to do well as a bush in the cold part of Norfolk. Josephine de Malines grown here as a bush is good and very free-bearing ; on a south wall it is of poor flavour. The tree is of straggling habit; the fruit, of average size, is of good flavour, but not equal to that of Winter Nelis. In remains in use from December to the end of February. Nouvellc Fulvie grown as a bush attains a good size, and the tree grows well. The fruit is not good enough to be classed in the front rank, as it is apt to decay at the core. I think it would be good on a wall, and I intend trying it in that way. Bergamotte d'Esperen, growing on a west wall, is large and clear in the skin, while on an east wall it Jan. U, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 35 is not so large, bat in neither aspect is the flavour good. ■\\'e have three bush trees, and when grown in this manner the fruits are rough-looking and much smaller than those from wall trees. They are often apt to craek, but however small they may be the flavour is always good. The tree is a good bearer, and the fruits keep a long time after being ripe. I have kept good fruits of it as late as the end of March. My late employer would often come into the fruit room and ask me to let him have the fruit off bush trees in preference to those from the walls, remarking that he valued fruit for its flavour, and not for its looks. Of Easter Beurre, we have never been able to ripen fruit until this season. This year it promises to be of good flavour. This is a very good Pear when it ripens well. It does well at Frimley Park (about a mile from here) on a south wall. This Pear used to be good in a large garden in the neighbourhood of Sherborne. I have samples before me from Worcestershire and Dorsetshire, but none are so good as those from Frimley Park. Beurre Ranee on west wall here is seldom good enough to send to table. It is large in size, grows well, but is not to be depended on. During the last two seasons I put the fruits about Christmas-time in a warm place, the temperature of which ranges from 50° to 55°, and many of them ripened sufliciently to be fit for table. I have never found this Pear good, except when living at Venn Hall, Sherborne, some twenty years ago. It was growing on an east wall. The fruit was allowed to hang as long as possible on the tree, and was then l^ken into a warm fruit room, where it ripened and was highly appreciated during February and March. If this Pear could be depended on to ripen well it would be most valuable. Of Beurre de Jonghe, I have a cordon tree from which I have gathered during the last two seasons a few fruits which ripened and proved of good flavour. It also promises this year to be of good quality. Olivier de Serres I have placed last on my list of Fears, but by no means least. As a very late Pear, that is, February and March, this, as far as my observations goes, is the very best, and if I were asked which late Pear I should plant I should select this one. I have fruited it during the last seven years, and each year it has produced good fruit, and during that time it has never been of inferior quality. It ripens gradually and keeps a long time when ripe. It is below medium size, of roundish shape, skin greenish yellow, very russetty, the flesh juicy and melting and sweet. I never remove it from the cold room, and it always ripens perfectly. Here the growth is rather weak. I have several other late kinds here on trial, but not having proved them, I cannot speak as to their qualities. The twelve sorts which I consider the best after eleven seasons' experience, selected from fifty sorts, are Jargonelle, Bon Chretien, Mme. Trey ve, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Fondarite d'Automne, Marie Louise, Emile d'Heyst, Doyenne du Cornice, Winter Nells, Glou Morceau, Josephine de Malines, and Olivier de Serres. If more good and desirable kinds are desired the following may be added: Beurre Superfln, Beurre de Jonghe, Bergamotte d'Esperen, Beurre d'Aremberg, Beurrg Diel, and Conseiller de la Cour. John Crook. SHORT N0TM8.— FRUIT. Best six Pears. — Mr. Garcia selects as the best six home-grown Pears the Jargonelle, William, Marie Louise, CalebassG (or Doyenne du Comice), Glou Morceau, and Beurre Ranoe. He sent us some Beurre Ranee, aud very gritty and bad they were ! Apple Blenheim Orange. — The Rev. R. Hooper, vicar of Upton, has sent us a very fiue, highly coloured example of this Apple, grown by Mr. B. Nade, Thorpe Farm, Aston Upthorpe, and says that it was by no means the largest grown this year. Pear Olivier de Serres, which also comes from Mr. Crook, is not, according to those who judge of flavour by appearance, a very bright specimen — stony- lookiug aud brown, with a curious deep depression ; but it really has something in it in the way of flavour, and we shall be glad to hear how our readers generally tuid it. Apple Claygate Pearmain in Scotland. — Id reply to your note a short time ago respecting the above, I send a few specimens that were grown upon a pyramid tree, hut owing to the drought, they are rather smaller this year than usual. It ripeus here about the end of January, aud forms a good succession to Cox's Orange and Ribston Pippins. The tree does best in the bush form, as the spreading nature of the branches jjrevents it making a good pyramid. — J. Day, Galloway House, Garliesion, N.B. SMALL APPLE TREES IN GARDENS. One can but deplore the almost entire absence in many cottage and villa gardens of small and useful Apple trees. The cottager might reasonably enough plead that he is too poor to buy, and the owner — who too often exacts exorbitantground -rents and draws from a few acres of house property a very heavy sum per acre, and who docs little or nothing to improve it— regards it as no concern of his. Small bush Apple trees are well adapted for gardens of small space, especially those belonging to cottagers and the artisan class. Trees of this character, if worked upon the French Paradise stock, do not take up much room and quickly bear fruit. If the best cropping sorts of good quality are planted, such trees speedily become remunerative. They are easily managed by thinning out the branches when they become too crowded, and doing such pruning as might be necessary during the winter, but sorts that bear freely yearly do to a considerable extent regulate their own growth. Some little pinching back is occasionally necessary during the summer, but care is necessary that the shoots be not pinched too closely back, or they are in danger of becoming a mass of unripened young wood unfit to bear fruit. Should a tree become too gross in its growth, one of the best things to do is to take it up in the autumn and replant it, and the act of doing this will be pretty certain to throw it into bearing. The act of lifting in this way is an easy matter in the case of trees on the French Paradise stock, as they put forth roots near the surface, and, like the Quince, form masses of fibrous roots through being occasionally lifted. Apple culture on these dwarf bushes can be made very interesting to amateurs and cottagers, and becomes a great source of pleasure and recreation. In cases where gardens and trees alike are small, a commencement might be made by planting trees only IS inches apart, and when they begin to touch each other each alternate one can be taken out and replanted elsewhere. I remember Mr. John Scott, nurseryman, Crewkerne, once saying that in IsiJS he had as many as 1000 trees of this type of various sorts, many of them bearing six to twelve Apples, the trees being close together, and most of them from 1 foot to li feet in height. Mr. Scott said that all the large Apples which are generally strong growers and slow bearers, when grafted on the French Paradise stock bear abundantly in two or three years, and produce fine handsome fruit, better flavoured than when the trees are on the Crab or Doucin stock. Why, the very act of bearing is, in the case of these small trees, Nature's own method of pruning, and when they bear good crops they make but comparatively little growth. The management of these trees is very easy and simple ; that is, if any of them should show an inclination to grow too luxuriantly, all that is necessary is merely to lift them out of the ground, tread the soil down firmly, place the tree on the spot, spread out the fibrous roots carefully, and cover them with a few inches of soil, thus raising the tree on a kind of little mound. The roots will thus work near the surface, and, as a consequence, the wood will be well ripened and a fruitful tree formed. Little pruning is necessary ; a few over- luxuriant shoots pinched back slightly once in summer, and a neat and thin regulation of the branches in autumn and winter is all that is re- quired. Too much summer pruning should be avoided for the reason already named, and also because the trees are in danger of becoming too scrubby, stunted, and ugly. A generous treatment should be followed, not too much pinching or prun- ing, and the trees should not be cropped too heavily, so as to exhaust unduly their energies. And as it might be asked, What are the best varieties of Apples for growing in this way ? I would reply, generally endeavour to secure such sorts as are suitable for the district in which the cultivator resides. A well-known gardener or nurseryman of the locality would be in a position to give a reply to such an inquiry. R. D. HARDY FRUIT : " OUR OWN SELECTION." Writing lately to a friend who was anxiou.s to make a sure choice of Apples to plant, we named half-a-dozen of those we had reason to think, beyond all doubt, first iu merit. Our friend sent it to a nurseryman reputedly strong in fruit trees, and had a reply stating that most of the kinds named were not iu stock. The writer added, however. We could really do niitch hetfer for yon if you ivoitld leave it to our selection. We believe that a main cause of the state of our fruit gardens is owing to the leaving them to the nurserymen's own selection. Their business is to get rid of their stock ; but their bu3ines.s should never be to stock a garden. We know many nurserymen abo\e all suspicion of dis- honourable business of any kind — many whose knowledge of fruits is very precious ; but the nurseryman's work should be the growth of his stock. Frtiit-growing nurseries are usually stocked with many kinds of our hardy fruits, and the temptation to get rid of those that remain on hand is great. Therefore, we say, never trust a grower of young trees to select for you, though bis experience of how varitties do in his own district may be useful. The public are to blame for causing nurserymen to issue " fat " catalogues, and to grow a hundred kinds where they ought to have a well-grown stock of twenty-five. If the public ordered only kinds they knew to be worth eating when they Lad them, they would teach a valuable lesson to the trade. And they would help it too, for the trouble of growing and naming accurately a large number of varieties prevents full attention being given to getting healthy stocks of first- rate essential kinds. Above all things they should, in ordering standard kinds, resent any attempts to send others inste.id, with or without permission ; also trees or plants thrown in to "compensate for carriage 1 '' and insist on all trees being true to thtir kinds. If people waste their ground with useless trees it should not be through the nurseryman's advice. The grower for private use or for the markets should have his own way iu that, as his responsi- bility is serious. Many crops want but a few months for their perfecting; with poor kinds of fruit trees we lose many years. — Field. 'Vine borders in autumn. — Experienced growers always see that their Xine borders, particu- larly where the Grapes are hanging, are in a thoroughly moist condition before the winter is far advanced. Others sometimes allow their borders to become dry enough in autumn to cause the fruit to shrivel before mid-winter. This will be liable to occur this season, as many Vines did not receive suflicient water last summer, and the borders have become so dry throughout that it will take some perseverance in watering to get them thoroughly moistened again. It is a difticult matter to do any harm in a vinery by watering the border in good weather, so long as the ventilators can be freely opened; but as the days shorten, and ventilation becomes limited, watering the border must be done with more care. The operation cannot be per- formed in a close atmosphere without causing a 36 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 14, 1888. great deal of moisture to rise and cling to the Grapes, and this causes many of them to decay. October is a bad month for this, and all Vine growers would do well to see that their borders are thoroughly ■watered before then. By a thorough watering, I mean more than a mere sprinkling on the surface, as, where the borders have become dry, it will take more than one or two waterings to soak them, and before this is fully accomplished they may have to be watered half a dozen times. When I water a very dry border, I give a good quantity to it in the morning, and again in the afternoon, and this is re- peated day after day until it has been soaked. If a border is done in this way during September, or in fine weather in October, it may not require more water all the winter, as the leaves will begin to fall I off, and there will be no great call for moisture by the A'ine. The atmosphere can, therefore, be kept very dry, and this is one of the greatest aids to suc- cessful Grape keeping. In an ordinary season, when the rainfall is up to the average, it is always necessary to see that allVine borders are thoroughly watered before winter; but now, when the rainfall is far below the average everywhere, it is of the ut- most importance that the watering of the borders has special attention. — Cajibbian, in Field. FRUITS UNDER GLASS. Peaches. Not many years ago the ripening of really first- class Peaches about the middle of May was con- sidered good work, and gardeners who succeeded deserved more credit than we can lay claim to. Royal George, Noblesse, and Grosse Mignonne, still unbeaten for quality, were the varieties our fore- fathers depended upon, and in order to have the fruit ripe by the time I have named, the houses were closed for forcing by the end of November. With smoke -fiaes for giving warmth, and all the winter before them, the management of these trees was no sinecure. But all this has been changed, as we now have light, airy houses, well ventilated upon the best principles, and efficiently heated with hot water. External borders have been superseded by internal arrangements for the roots, but whether this is a great gain for those who use water sparingly is very doubtful, as the prevailing cry now is the dropping of the buds when they ought to be swelling freely. Add to these advan- tages the introduction of a host of precocious va- rieties, more or less clingstone and decidedly iaterior in quality, which can be started on the 1st of January, with every prospect of their fruit, such as it is, ripening in time for the Queen's birthday. This is quick work, and were it a decided gain upon the past we might congratulate ourselves ; but Peaches, like all other fruits, are iutended for eat- ing, whilst these small bags of sweet water and fibre have nothing but their earliness to recommend them. But I digress, and having shown that I do not approve of a step backward, I must return to my notes on culture. Waiving the sorts and the time at which the trees were started, I will assume that the roots are established in sound, well- drained internal borders, and fermenting material has been used for producing atmospheric moisture by which the drying influence of fire-heat has been counteracted ; that the borders, moreover, are tho- roughly moist, and the buds, thanks to a plentiful supply of water, are swelling freely. Started at a minimum temperature of 45", with a rise of 5^' to 10' by day, the progress will be slow, but sure, and many will be inclined to increase it to .'JO" at night; but, unless the weather is soft and mild and air can be admitted, the safest course will be a night heat of 1.5* until the flowers begin to open. There are, of course, exceptions to all rules; but patience must be exercised, and whenever a stride is made it should always take place iluring the hours of daylight. Syringe the trees backwards and forwards once or twice a day according to the state of the external at- mosphere, but avoid a sloppy state of the house, and always see that the buds are fairly dry at nightfall. Fire-heat more or less every day being necessary, it should be turned on early in the morning, when air in due cour.se can lie admitted, and very often the turning of the fermenting material for setting warmth as well as moisture at liberty will be found an excellent substitute for the afternoon syringing, when the ventilators for a few hours may be closed. As days increase in length and the sun gains power the buds will push forward rapidly, but before the first flower expands the house must be lightly and repeatedly fumigated. Green-fly may not be in sight, but this must not be an excuse for neglect, as the most promising trees are frequently ruined for the season when a trifle spent in tobacco-paper would carry them safely over the setting process. Succession Jioi/ses, recently closed, may range from 40" to 45° at night to 50" by day, always, if possible, with a chink of air. Many people do not think it necessary to give air through the early stages, but buds as well as leaves gain strength under its in- vigorating influence, and for this reason a circula- tion,no matter how trifling,should always be insisted upon when the hot-water valves are open also. When these are closed the ventilators may be shut for a short time, when the gardener's best aid — the bed or ridge of fermenting leaves— should be turned over and renovated with a fresh supply from the reserve it necessary. Old trees that have been forced for a number of years, and have never felt the want of water, invariably swell up nine- tenihs of their buds, and set an abundance of fruit which requires much thinning. This operation is a very pleasant one, but a moderate set always gives the finest fruit, and as all Peach growers prefer seeing their fruit pointing apex upwards to the sun, it is a good plan, as soon as the buds are safe, to draw the finger down the lower sides of the shoots and to carry away all with which it comes in con- tact. Another aid to these old and trusty friends will be found in a liberal mulch of good turf and rotten manure in equal parts, with 12 per cent, of bone-dust added. If spread over the whole area of the internal borders and well washed in with tepid water, the surface roots will at once get to work, and the trees will pay for this attention over and over again by the time the fruit is ripe. It is very easy to stimulate fruit trees into grossness of wood and leaf by the use of nitrogenous manures, but for producing short-jointed shoots and helping Peaches — indeed, all stone fruit trees over the stoning pro- cess—there is nothing to beat old calcareous turf and genuine bone-dust. Late houses. — As these will be retarded until the sun gains the victory, there yet remains plenty of time for cleansing and putting the trees in order. Meantime, as it is unwise to put off until to-morrow work that can be done to-day. advantage should be taken of inclement weather for washing and tying in the trees. If not well thinned out in the autumn the knife should now be freely used before the trees are loosened from the trellis, as the overcrowding of late varieties in late houses is a most serious defect, which the hottest and brightest of seasons cannot remedy. From 5 inches to G inches apart is not too much, and be it borne in mind that a young shoot should always be tied down upon the top of each old branch, as exposure of these to a burning sun is the most common cause of paralysis, by many called sunstroke. This burning of the stems and branches of Peach trees, not only under glass, but against walls, is far more prevalent than many imagine, and invariably the mischief is done before those who have not bought their experience are aware of it. Prevention being better than cure — in fact, there is no care — and so simple, the tying and training of young leafy shoots over all exposed parts where practicable, and shading the stems with thin boards, should never be neglected. Figs started about the end of November or early in December will now be breaking into leaf, and the young fruit will be the size of Hazel nuts. This, at least, is the condition of my own trees, and having had so little sun they have not been hurried Although Figs will stand more heat than Vines, the Muscat excepted, I never make any difference in the two houses until after the fruit is safe, when the Figs are treated to a higher temperature. These particular trees for a great number of years occupied 2(i-inch pots, and were plunged in a shallow pit filled at the proper time with fermenting material, but finding them too unwieldy for moving or potting, I burst their bonds with a hammer, packed the roots of each tree in a yard of compost, and trained the shoots to a trellis. As these cubes of compost do not fill more than half the pit, the remainder is filled in with fermenting leaves pure and simple, when the hoiise is closed, and, well checked in their youth, the trees do not break away from their short, stubby growth, which, as everyone knows, is abundantly fruitful. By occasional reno- vation from the reserve, the bottom heat is kept about 70°, tepid water in abundance is given, and whilst escaping the danger of dropping, brought about by want of water, by choked drainage, or other pot -culture ills, the young roots soon find their way into a medium that does not readily dry up, and the fruit arrives equally early at maturity. I do not condemn pot culture, quite the reverse, but draw attention to this mode of dealing with over-large pot trees to show that they cannot be too old to be profitable. When the leaves are nearly ripe we clear out the pit, pare oif a portion of the turf cube, roots included, build up a new retaining wall of turf, give one good soaking of water, and roast the shoots with sun-heat. When Fig trees at home have pushed into full leaf and the fruit begins to swell freely, good mulching and warm liquid will be necessary ; the syringe, too, may be plied twice a day, but not too late in the afternoon, as the foliage should always be fairly dry by night- fall. Thinning, too, must receive attention, but who ever thinks of thinning when the Fig is so wayward and persists in dropping, not a few, but all its finest fruit, just when the most coveted is wanted for the first dish of the season ? Leaving on one tree enough for two is not the way to redeem its character. Peaches under such treatment would drop at stoning time, and if Grapes did not drop they would shank and look red when they ought to turn black, and yet the abused Fig is handicapped with a double load to help it forward to a successful finish. If anyone doubts this theory let him give the roots of one tree all they require and thin off the inferior and underside fruit, and not only will those left finish well, but free varieties like Brown Turkey will become perpetual bearers. Succession Jiouses. — It the second house has not been started no time should be lost in getting the roots into action — first, by watering with water at a temperature of 90° ; second, by the introduction of a good body ot fermenting leaves ; and last, by a liberal use ot the syringe. It the bed of leaves Is well managed, fire-heat for the first fortnight will hardly be necessary, but when the buds begin to swell and the embryo fruits to push an increased circulation by day will be necessary. Old-established trees may be started at 50° as a minimum, unless the weather is very cold, with a rise of 10° by day, and these figures must be gradually increased until by the time the trees are in leaf the minimum touches tJO" and the air temperature is 70°. It syringed twice before 1 p.m., moisture in abundance will be produced, even on fine days, whilst one syringing, supplemented by moisture from the hot leaves, will be ample when the weather is dark and sunless. Cherries. When the buds in the early house begin to swell freely, the mean temperature may range about 45° by night and 50" to 55° by day always with air. Frequently these figures will be touched and some- times exceeded, without the aid of fire-heat, but this will not matter, always provided fresh air is admitted, when 5° to 10° higher during the preva- lence of sunshine will make up for enforced rest on severe nights when the ventilators are closed. As soon as this stage is reached and days begin to lengthen, the most gentle circulation on the pipes with top and bottom ventilators more or less open and syringing duly attended to, the progress of these excitable subjects will be very rapid, and pre- parations must be made for a clean bill of health during the time they are in flower. Although green iind black aphis may have been annihilated by the winter dressing, the temptation to introduce a few Strawberry or other plants is strong, and with them memies fatal to the crop may be discovered when I it is too late to fumigate. But independently of Jan. 14, 1888.J THE GARDEN. 37 this pardonable attempt to utilise space, three mild smokings should always precede the opening of the first flower. Every blossom will then be clean and strong, and there will be no necessity for hurrying forward the fertilising process, as fly cannot possibly become dangerous before the fruit is properly set. The above remarks apply to trained trees growing in internal borders, covered or banked up with a body of fermenting leaves, but trees in pots require precisely the same give-and-take treatment, as un- due haste in bad weather is fatal, whilst patience is rewarded with one of the most enchanting sights imaginable when they are in full flower. Many people give preference to pot trees, which, under good management, will last a lifetime; but being more liable to go wrong, two or three suitable varie- ties planted out in limited borders and trained under portable or movable roofs, whilst giving less trouble and more reliable results, are fast growing in favour with all good Cherry forcers. Having so often given lists of the best for forcing, repetition appears unnecessary; the same questions, however, year after year keep cropping up, not only in thi?, but in every other department, and as every calen- dar writer is supposed to be a walking catalogue, I may as well take the bull by the horns by saying May Duke and Empress Eugenie — an earlier and equally good variety— are indispensable. Early Rivers should not be overlooked. Black Circassian is the best representative of the early blacks; Governor Wood and the good old Elton complete the half dozen, which cannot be beaten. The early, also the large Black Bigarreau and Bigarreau Jaboulay, or Early Lyons, I believe, are equally suitable for the forcing house; but having a great liking for this section so rarely tasted at their best from open walls, I repeat my request, that all who can will give this family a house to themselves for forming a succession. Here, the three I have named should lead the way, and variety being charming, the handsome Bigarreau Napoleon and a few more of the best should be represented. If handsome pyramids on the Mahaleb stock, well fur- nished with flower-buds, were placed in pots or small tubs, a house of moderate dimensions would accommodate a goodly number of trees, which would lend a charm to any good garden not often realised. Good drainage and hard potting in sound Cilcireous loam, corrected with old lime rubble and a dash of soot and bone-dust, are first essentials. Fire-heat is not absolutely necessary, but knowing that a damp, stagnant atmosplisre in bad weithtr is unfavourable to setting as well as to the preserva- tion of the fruit when ripe, I would strongly ad- vise the introduction of a flow and return pipe for falling back upon in lime of danger. Plums, like Cherries, can be obtained in all forms, and laden with flower-buds ready for forcing, or comicg in late like the Bigarreaus. Their treatment in every respect is the same, at least through the early stages, and on this account many gardeners grow the two together. A time, however, comes when the precocious Cherry requires drier treat- ment than would be good for the Plums, and to accommodate the two no one will regret growing them separately, under the .same roof it may be. but with a glass division, with gentle tire heat and an abundance of ventilation. The lists of Plums are much too long, and when those of Apples and Pears have been passed down we hope the practical editor of The Garden will carry his shears into this department. Meantime we must make the best of our position by confining ourselves to a few of the choice sorts e-specially for pot culture. De Montfort, Kirke's, Jefferson's, and Transparent Gage are good sorts for forcing, if the Plum can be forced, but, like the Camellia, the secret of success is bound up in getting the trees and buds forward in the autumn and starting early. If this point is ne- glected the Camellia will take its time or cast its buds, and the Plum will refuse to go on to early maturity. The four varieties I have named are excellent for the dessert or for exhibition. Nearly all the Gages are worthy of pot-culture, and two of llivers's seedlings, the Early and Late Transparent, from the old Transparent Gage, a host in itself, are said to be excellent. The first, as a matter of course, should have a place in the early house, the second in the late one, where also Golden Drop should be well represented. Kirke's, Jefferson's, Transparent, the old variety, and Late Rivers, a most delicious Plum, may be duplicated to any extent, as they cannot come in at the wrong time, whilst some of them will hang until they shrivel and become perfect sweetmeats. The enemies to Plums, when in flower, and also when ripe, are a damp, sluggish atmos- phere, and last, but equally destructive, the black- bird. If I were confined to one variety, I would plant a house with Golden Drop, giving the trees an inside border and train them to a fixed trellis as we now train Peach trees. W. C. Ferns. W. H. GOWER. ADIANTUxM MONOCHLAMV'S. The accompanying illnsstration represents a very elegant Japanese Maiden-hair Fern, and was taken from a specimen gatlisred in that somewhat resembles the variety of A. Capillus- Veneris called Footi. A. SCHIZOPHYLLUM is also a pretty, neat, and distinct plant, which appears to have been raised in Mr. Williams' nursery at HoUoway. The fronds are supported upon slender, jet-black stems, and seldom exceed a foot in height ; they are much branched, all the branches being tripinnate ; the pinnules are small, somewhat distant, and rounded above, where they are deeply toothed. It is just now a conspicuous feature in the fernery at Hollo- way. A. BELLUM is a tufted species, with bipinnate fronds, which seldom exceed G inches in height; the pinnules, somewhat large for the size of the fronds, have short stalks, and are irregularly lobed and toothed on the upper edge, and bear two or three rather large sori on each. I recently noted this elegant little plant in the nursery of Mr. Bull, by whom it was introduced from Bermuda. A. GLAUCOPHTLLUM. — This species is now very handsome in the Victoria Nurseries. It is an ele- gant plant, and is considerably hardier than either of the previously named kinds, which can be readily understood when I state that it has been found growing in its native country (Mexico) at an elevation of from GOOD to 9000 feet. The fronds are deltoid in outline, usually four times divided; the pinnules stalked and narrow ; sori three to four on a pinnule when mature, chestnut-brown and conspicu- ous. Its fronds are light and graceful and as they last a considerable time when cut, are valu- able for table decoration. A. PKAGILE inhabits limestone rocks in various of the West Indian Islands, and is, I believe, toler- ably common in Jamaica, from whence I have received i,t upon several occasions. If in cultivation at the present time it is rare. It was introduced to cultivation by the late Messrs. RoUisson, but did not attain any dimensions with them. The fronds are tufted, G inches to I) inches high; stems slender, very short ; pinnules stalked and rounded on the upper edge; the infertile pinnse deeply serrated, while the fertile ones are broadly lobed. This plant betrays the careless attendant more quickly than any other Fern I know. Its pinnules appear to be jointed to the slender stipites, so that if the plant suffers from drought the pinnules all fall away, i leaving nothing but bare stems, which at once pro- claim the neglect from which the plant has suf- fered. This character will at once prohibit the use of the fronds in a cut state, but when grown into i handsome little tufts it is a veritable gem ; indeed, the above-named half-dozen small-growing forms of the Maiden-hair Fern are amongst the very choicest of their kind. A. fragile does not like much soil about its roots, and requires to be kept in a very equable state of moisture. It thrives well in limestone. Adiantura monoclUamys. country by the lite Mr. John Gould Veitch. The Messrs. A'eitcli have raised the plant from spores, and it is now growing in their collection. It grows about 18 inches in height, of whichabout half is a naked, glossy, chestnut-brown stem ; the frond is tiipmnate ; the I'innte distant ; the upper edges rather rounded, more or less toothed ; the texture firm and rather leathery ; s iri, singly on the piunie, being situated in a deep hollow, whiht the colour is pale green. ]t is a very distinct plant, and worthy of a p'aoo in every collection of Ferns. A. Feugusoni, another handsome Maiden-hair which I recently noted growing in the Messrs. Vtitch's fernery, is a beautiful companion plant. It has recently been introduced from Ceylon, where it has not, however, been found in a wild state, but was detected growing in a garden, nothing being known of its history. It appears to grow reidily from spores, and retains its true character. The fronds are erect, tripinnate, and about 2 feet in height, and vivid green ; pinnules large, irregular in outline, and dee^jly lobed on the upper edge. It Britisll Ferns at Kew.— The richest bequest that has fallen to the Royal Gardens at Kew since the late Mr. Joad, of Wimbledon, left, a few years ago, his entire collection of plants to the national garden, is that which has recently been made by the late Mr. Carbonell, of Usk, who during his long life made British Ferns his special hobby and study. His complete collection is now at Kew, consisting of some 4000 plants, repre- senting over 1000 named forms ! Without doubt, Mr. Carbonell's Fern collection is one of the richest extant, for he seems to have collected every known form, however slightly it differed from the type or sioailar varieties. One might imagine, from the prodigious number of named kinds^that many of them are alike to all except specialists ; but, for all that, we rejoice that at last Kew possesses the ma- terial for an open-air fernery which, if properly de- signed and planted, will become a source of special interest to thousands of vi-itors. The hardy P'ern collection has always been a weak point at Kew, and now we hope that there will be no cheese, paring policy at headquarters, but that a hberal grant will be made for carrying out in a thorough way a new hardy fernery, so that Mr. Carbonell's 38 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 14, 1888. priceless collection may be enjoyed by the public. There is a capital site for such a fernery adjoining what was the old rockery. It is a rising knoll, clothed with a few big trees, and it deep cuttings were made in this knoll, so as to form miniature ravines, a most picturesque fernery could be con- structed. But we do hope that whatever is done a painful excess of stone will be eschewed, for in Nature most hardy Ferns mingle rather with tree roots than stone. We hear that the plants are grand specimens, so that an immediate effect can be produced. The collection will not only prove of interest to the cultivator who wishes to select the most beautiful sorts, but will also afford solid food for the botanical studentwho may wish to study the excessive variability of British Ferns. — W. G. THE ROYAL FERN. (OSMUNDA REGALIS.) A NOTE by "0. G." in The Gabden, Dec. ;U (p. 612), calls attention to an article in the issue for 17th ult., by " S. G.," on Osmunda regalis (p. 5G5), in which it is stated that this Fern has only been found in three localities in Ireland, a statement on which "0. G." very properly casts a doubt, but his remark does not go nearly far enough. If "S. G." had referred to any standard work on the distribu- tion of Irish plants, such as the "CybeleHybernica," published by Dr. David Moore (late head of the Bota- nic Gardens, Glasnevin) and Mr. A. G. More, he would have found that the Osmunda is comparatively a common plant, and not a great rarity, as he states. Messrs. Moore and More describe it as " frequent, but avoiding limestone." It is recorded from every one of the twelve districts into which these authors divide Ireland. Anyone who has been at Killarney must have seen it in quantity ; and in some parts of county Cork it fringes every ditch, and- grows in favourable localities D feet or 10 feet high. I have myself gathered it in Wicklowand elsewhere. The spelling of the word Muckross "Mucruss" suggests that "S. G.'s" authority must be some very old author, older certainly than Mackay, for he says the plant is common iu many places, and mentions county Down, &c —Greenwood Pim. The thanks of all who are anxious to pre- serve this magnificent Fern in Wales are due to "S. G.," in The Garden, Dec. 17 (p. riG'j), for avoid- ing (purposely, no doubt) naming but one solitary spot in this country where it is known to grow wild, for, however careful we may be, tourists find the plants, drag them up and carry them away, no matter what the season of the year may be. Thus these destroyers soon annihilate large patches of fine plants, to no better end than to show on their return home to their friends a few withered fronds, and to dilate on their own wonderful powers as Fern-collectors. May " S. G." and others long keep such people in ignorance ot the habitats of our Royal and other fine Ferns,— A Lover of Native Plants. SHORT NOTES.— FERNS. Lastrea proliflca.— This perfectly hardy J;i.pa- nese form liiis been rt'contly introdur/cd, and is a de- cided ai-quitition, as it retains its brigVit green fronds throughout the winter months. I recently noted this species in Mr. Bull's nursery at Chelsea, but cannot say to what size it attains. Its evergreen character Bbould cause it to lind favour with the r)ow iinmerous amateurs who devote a portion of their garden to the cultivation of hardy Ferns. — W. II. (!. Adiantum asBimile cristatum. — Few Ferns are more handsome when grown in a hanging basket than the old and well-known A. assimilo, but the i'urin herenotodi.s strikingly distinct, and even more beautiful nndersiriiilar'-onditions. ThefrundHarnhnth hitigoraiid broader than those of the type, gracffully arfhed, and ornamented at their points with a dense spreading, tasselled crest, whilst the fart of its being a cool house plant will materially add to its popularity. It is one of Mr. IJulTs recent introductions from Australia. — W. n. C. Savalliafijiensis and D.fijiensisplumosa. — Grand examples of these two forms, perhaps the most elegant of all the Hare's-foot Ferns, are to be seen in the choice collection of these plants cul- tivated in the garden of the Rev. Canon Bridges, at Beddington, in Surrey. In the typical plant the creeping rhizome is somewhat stout and densely clothed with scales, the fronds being from 1 foot to 2 feet long and nearly a foot broad. The variety plumosa is a plant of bolder habit, the fronds being longer and broader, gracefully arched throughout their entire length, and deep shining green. These plants were, I believe, introduced to culti- tivation by Mr. Ball, in whose establishment at Chelsea I recently observed numerous examples in various stages of development. Two more beautiful evergreen Ferns it is scarcely possible to find ; there is no peculiar treatment required, both the species and its variety being of robust constitution. They appear to be tolerably common in the Fiji Islands, but have not as yet been found elsewhere. — W.H.G. FERN FRONDS FOR CUTTING. There is always a brisk demand for the fronds of the Maiden-hair Fern for bouqiiet-making, and those of Adiantum cuneatum are by far the best for this work. A variety of A. cuneatum named compactum is likely to be u.seful for filling vases on the table or for brackets in the drawing-room. A. gracillimum is light and pretty, but too fragile, and when used round a bouquet does not give green enough, though it might be used in the bouquet amongst Howers with cuneatum as a base. Adiantum Williamsi is a very free-growing variety, soon developing into a handsome specimen. It is useful for filling vases, but rather too heavy for the bonquetist. One advantage this variety pos- sesses is its great power of reproduction. We can cut and come again without exhausting the plant. Tlie new growth comes delicately tipped with gold dust, hence its name of the Golden Maiden-hair. Adiantum fonnosum is a very vigorous-growing form, and the fronds are last- ing in character, and though of no use for market cutting, they are useful for home work. t)ther Ferns which may easily be grown in quantity for cutting are Pteris tremula, P. serrulata, and P. cretica albo-cuneata. For creating striking eft'ects, fronds of Polypodium aureum and Wood- wardia radicans are useful. The most important matter in connection with the introduction of Fern fronds for cutting is their durability. National sentiment (a very powerful factor iu such cases) is in favour of Adiantum cuneatum being used on all important occasions. To ob- tain the necessary firmness and durability, the plants must be grown in the light, even if some sacrifice has to be made of the greenness of colour ; therefore, the house for Ferns for cut- ting must be light. Shade will be necessary in hot weather, but the plants must be grown near the glass. In growing Adiantums for their fronds I find a con.siderable advantage in having them in wire baskets suspended iu the full light near the glass. They require a little more at- tention in watering, but the baskets can be taken down and dipped in a tank or tub, and such a S(jaking will last a couple of days or longer in winter. E. H. OdontoBoria tenuifolia.— This is an extremely elegant Fern, yet cot seen so often in ferneries as its merits deserve. It appears to be a common plant throughout the greater portion of India, where in the Himalayas it grows up to about ."jOOO feet above the sea-level. It is also found in the Malay Islands, the Philippines, Java, Ceylon, Fiji and .Sandwich Islands, Madagascar, China, Hong-Kong, and Japan. With such a wide distribution, it is therefore not surprising that there are considerable numbers of distinct forms. In the normal condition ot the species the rhizonae is somewhat short and creeping, frondsfrom IK inches to 2feetlong,andfrom I inches to 11 inches broad, the pinniu being much cut up into narrow segments. In a variety which I have before me from China the fronds do not exceed 6 inches in height, 3 inches wide, the pinnules being broad and rounded on the upper edge ; this I take to be the variety chineusis. In examples of this Fern from Nagasaki, in Japan, I have the normal form saving stature, and it seldom appears to grow more than a foot in height. The Fiji Island form is a very handsome one, the pinnules being very long and narrow, but undoubtedly the handsomest form yet seen is that being distributed by the Messrs. Veitoh, of Chelsea, under the name of Davallia tenuifolia Veitchi. The fronds in this variety are longer than in the normal form, and instead of be- ing erect are beautifully arched, or, in fact, may be said to be drooping; the pinnie are also much longer, and the pinnules are much divided and slender, giving the whole frond the appearance of a delicate, lively green, lace-like screen. Its native country I have never heard ; the only form I have seen ap- proaching it came from Hong-Kong. The variety Veitchi is, beyond doubt, the most graceful Fern for growing in a hanging basket which hag ever been brought into notice, and as such I wish to re- commend it. It is a stove Fern, and should be planted so that the short creeping rhizome is not buried beneath the surface. The soil this species thrives well iu is rough peat, turfy loam, and sharp sand in about equal parts. — W. H. G. Kitchen Garden. WHERE TOMATOES SUCCEED. Nearly every gardener is supposed to grow as miny Tomatoes as possible, and if the supply is never-ending, so much the better. In very few instances, however, has any extra provision been made for the cultivation of Tomatoes, and con- sequently many and varied schemes are tried. It does not follow that all alike succeed in setting and ripening heavy crops of fruit, but if the attempt is made in an intelligent manner a failure rarely results. Although appreciated .at all times, I think that the fruits ripened early in the summer are most valued. The Tomato is not amenable to hard forcing, an important fact not yet fully realised, and a uniformly high temperature, or such say as Melons and Cucumbers revel in, is liable to induce plenty of growth, but fails to develop and set good clusters of fruit. Many healthy plants fail to set good crops in the autumn and early winter months, owing to the temperature of the house being kept at least 10° too high. They will set readily enough in a light house, where the temperature ranges from 50° atnightto (iO°byday, alittle top air being given whenever the weather permits. Those who can maintain these temperatures during the spring months will find them suit the Tomatoes much better than hard forcing. This fact was fully brought home to me somewhat recently. The bulb of the fruit was at one time grown and ripened in old houses in bad repair, a high temperature being out of the question. When the roof was reglazed the heat could be kept in, and the higher tempera- ture resulting quite spoilt the set on our earliest plants, till it ocoirred to me that less heat and more air would mend matters. I can now set the first cluster of fruit within 15 inches of the soil or pot. Stout seedlings are the best to start with, and these may be quickly raised at the present time. If the seed is sown thinly in pans or pots of light soil it germinates (juickly on a mild hotbed, and if stood on a shelf near the glass, still in gentle heat, the plants soon become sufficiently sturdy for potting off singly into small pots. Irl these they become tall and spindly ; whereas, if one plant was sunk up to the seed leaves into the centre of a 5-inch pot filled with good light soil, or two agaiost the sides of a ()-inch pot and set on a mild hotbed till re-esta- blished and then transferred to a shelf near the glass in a warm house, they become remarkably sturdy and soon arrive at a bearing state. What to do with these plants is the next consideration, and to a certain extent most cultivators have to decide this point for themselves. Some will do well to pot Jan. 14, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 39 them deeply into 10-inch pots, or even two or three sizes larger, and fruit them on the front or back wall of the pits in forcing houses, or they may be placed in as large pots as any convenient shelf will hold, and be trained up wires or strings taken along the back roof of a three-quarter span-roofed house. I have done well with them in these positions, and also with plants dotted thinly over beds in forcing houses given up principally to Kidney Beans. In some instances it is possible to devote the prin- cipal portion of the roof of a house to them, and in this case Tomato culture is a comparatively simple matter. To give the plants as much hotbed material and rich loamy soil to root in as Cu- cumbers often receive is not the surest method of securing abundance of fruit. When the plants are treated in a similar way to Cucumbers, that is to say, are allowed considerable head room, the crops being principally obtained from the lateral growth, they are less likely to be spoilt with a too liberal food supply. It is those planted closely, or about 12 inches apart, and confined to one stem that are unfruitful if afforded a very rich diet. Plants root- ing in narrow raised beds, enclosed with narrow walls formed with loose bricks, and not allowed to form any side branches, frequently produce very heavy crops of fruit, the clusters being formed throughout the length of the plants. Some people plunge 10-inch pots containing the plants in a bed of good soil, allowing them to root out into this at their leisure. Thus treated, no rank growth is formed, and the plants find plenty of food to enable them to perfect heavy crops of fruit. Plants in pots plunged in the borders, near the back wall of a new or only partially furnished vinery, nearly as thickly as they will stand, will produce very pro- fitable crops without greatly injuring the borders; in fact, it is my belief that Tomatoes dotted all about the border and fastened to strong stakes are much more remunerative than the best managed supernumerary Grape Vines. They must have plenty of light, and very rarely do Tomatoes fruit satisfac- torily against the back walls of established vineries. Plenty are grown at the ends of various fruit houses in boxes or pots, but I find they do not set very well even in these comparatively light places, too much heat being, perhaps, the principal reason for this. After good crops are set on the plants in pots grown in various light positions in our forcing houses, any of them in the way are transferred to the ends of the early vineries, and here the fruit ripens capitally. Partially furnished Peach houses, again, are ad- mirably adapted for Tomato growing, and the heaviest and most profitable crops I ever grew or ever saw were obtained between the Peach and Nectarine trees on both the front trellises and back walls. The plants were first established in 12-inch pots and then set on the borders wherever there was space for them to grow. Receiving plenty of water as well as liquid manure frequently, no harm was done to the legitimate occupants of the border with which the Tomato plants and roots soon mingled. Very good crops could also be obtained from plants in pots set on slates and boards and prevented from rooting into the border, but such require liberal top-dressings of loam, solid and liquid manure, and very close attention in the way of watering. Heated pits, notably those with span-roofs, are largely utilised for Tomato culture with the best of results. The plants are either put out and treated somewhat similarly to Cucumbers and Melons, hurdles, slates, or boards being placed for them to ramble over, or they are taken up to a temporary trellis, this being perhaps the best plan to adopt. If trained thinly over the bed or trellis, lateral growth being laid in only where there is space un- occupied, no difficulty is experienced in setting and ripening abundance of fruit. Should the plants be neglected and allowed to grow unrestricted in any way, they will not long remain fruitful. I have a deep pit, which this season will be principally devoted to Tomato culture. The plants will occupy a narrow border at the bottom, and be trained over hurdles laid in a sloping direction against the back walls. This will admit of the plants being at- tended to from the inside. I ought, perhaps, to add that when a trellis is placed in a pit the plants do best when planted in a small mound or bed of soil at one end or near the front, and trained on the extension system. Tomatoes do well in pits and frames in succession to early Potatoes. There is now a great variety, or, at any rate, there are numerous so-called distinct varieties to select from, any of which may be successfully grown under glass. The ribbed types, however, are the most reliable, these setting freely sometimes when the smooth round forms fail to do so. The true Dwarf Orangefield is, on the whole, the very best that can be grown, and market growers will find it as pro- fitable as any. The fruits, though rather small, are produced in extra large clusters, while the quality is unsurpassed. A good selection of the large red also proves very profitable, but the quality is inferior to that of the Orangefield. Hackwood Park I can also strongly recommend for culture under glass, and if Mikado, as selected and sent to me from America, does as well under glass as in the open last summer, it, too, is worthy of a trial. W. Iggulden. KITCHEN GARDEN NOTES. Manueixg, digging and thenching. — As yet the rainfall has been comparatively light, and but little snow has fallen, while several sharp touches of frost have been experienced. These conditions have been most favourable to the preparation of the ground for this season's crops, and a good start largely contributes to ultimate success. When this kind of work is not pushed forward early in the winter, or whenever the weather and the state of the ground permit, the chances are it will have to be done in very bad weather, and when heavy soils have to be worked in a very moist state much more harm than good is very often the result. It is possible to injure land for years by digging or trampling on it in wet weather, and rather than risk this I would prefer to leave land of a re- tentive or clayey nature undug till nearer cropping time, or even to let it go undug. Broccoli, Savoy, and other quarters not cleared may yet have the manure wheeled on to them when the ground is hard-frozen. The digging can then be done directly the old stumps are cleared off, and before heavy rains have saturated the ground. No general rules can be laid down, soils varying surprisingly, even in a single district. Thus some are all the better for being dug early and re-dug again after the surface has been pulverised, while others are best let alone till just before they are cropped. The former, if very roughly dug, do not get thoroughly pulverised, and large unworkable clods will be found underneath. They must be either dug and re-dug, or broken up rather more finely than is usually done, thus admitting of either the frosts or drying winds penetrating through the lumps. Some heavy soils, if dug long before they are cropped, are apt to run together like birdlime, and these are very difficult to manage. The lighter, and naturally more finely divided, soils resting usually on a gravelly or well drained sub-soil break down rapidly and fail to retain much of the soluble portion of the manures mixed with them. These are best manured and dug a short time only in advance of cropping. Being left in a comparatively firm state, much of the rain runs off, and con- sequently the soil, not being saturated, can be got into good condition for seeds and plants at almost any time, even if a wet spring is ex- perienced. Trenching where necessary or advisable should also be pushed forward in dry weather. Breaking the ground two or more spits deep, and at the same time bringing the subsoil to the surface, is very rarely either a wise or a safe proceeding, unless the subsoil has been previously prepared for it. Double digging or bastard trenching is the safest measure, as in this case only a small portion of the subsoil is brought to the surface, and this being subsequently well mixed with the top spit will usually put new life into it. It is the clayey subsoils that are so diflioult to bring into good working order, and very I little indeed of this should be brought to the surface at one time. Poor and perhaps newly-broken ground ought to have any rough manure mixed with the bottom spit, and partially decayed manure added to the surface soil. Land, however, that has been heavily manured for years, and perhaps not very closely cropped, will not need any manure ; but any kind of decaying vegetable added to the subsoil will tend to improve this in various ways. A great depth of rich soil encourages grossness in vegetables. In all cases the trenching should be done as soon as possible, in order to allow time for the settling of the ground before being cropped. It is the ground intended for Potatoes we would trench. Heavy crops of handsome tubers can be obtained from deeply-worked ground in almost any season, and the ground is left in excellent condition for Strawberries, Cauliflowers, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts— in fact, almost any vegetable that can be mentioned. Improving heavy land.— This is a slow and at times rather difficult undertaking, but the labour and whatever expense may be incurred are not thrown away. Much may be done by working heavy land at the right time as previously pointed out, and a liberal dressing of long stable liianure in preference to either cow-yard manure or any rotten and close material may well be given. Strawy manure cannot be so easily dug in as that which is more rotten, but, as a rule, it is better than rotten manure. If a good wide trench is kept open no difficulty need be experienced in burying a quantity of it, this serving to keep the land porous. Any quantity of it may be forked into the subsoil, and a repetition of this in the course of three or four years may render this more fit to come to the sur- face. Leaf-soil, peat, spent tan, burnt garden re- fuse, dust from the malt-kiln (an excellent fertiliser), both wood and coal ashes, burnt clay, and sandy soil from the rubbish heap are all valuable for lightening land. They should not be dug in, but ought rather to be well forked into the surface. Quicklime is serviceable in various ways, this both improving heavy land and rendering over-rich soil more fertile. This again should be given as a sur- face-dressing, and forked in when slaked at the rate of one bushel to every three square yards. Hotbeds foe early vegetables.— Hotbeds are of great assistance to the gardener who is supposed to supply his employer's table with early Asparagus, Seakale, Rhubarb, Potatoes, Carrots, Turnips, and salading, and those who can procure plenty of leaves have a decided advantage in this respect. These may be mixed with stable manure in equal quantities, or, better still, two parts of leaves to one of manure, and properly managed will give a fairly brisk, lasting, and sweet heat. If it can be avoided, the leaves should be used as soon as collected ; if stored in large heaps they are apt to ferment and otherwise waste their heat. Throw all into a heap together for a few days, and when the centre is found to be quite hot turn it inside out at once, well shaking out and mixing the materials during the operation, and leave it another week or more. If much manure is used it will be necessary to again turn the heap directly the centre is hot and allow it to stand another week before usirg in order to get rid of the poisonous gases. A fortnight or three weeks spent in the preparation of the heat- ing material is not time wasted, as prematurely formed beds are apt to over-heat, and besides having to wait till they cool, there is the risk of the centre being heated dry or to a white heat. Such beds are of little service, and the material is practically spoilt for any other purpose. Protection for veoetable.s.— A timely and heavy surfacing of strawy litter is of good service in keeping the frost out of the beds of Parsnips, Seakale, Rhubarb, young Carrots, Asparagus, or any roots that may be wanted for use or forcing during the prevalence of frosty weather. If portions of the plants of late Cauli Sowers and early Broccoli have been lifted and bedded in rich soil, these may well be further protected with strawy litter. Bracken, or mats in the event of severe frosts threatening. Lifting invariably reduces the size of the heads, but small ones are preferable to none at all, and we 40 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 14,- 1888. keep the central pit of a late vinery filled with plants. These are drawn from late breadths of the Autumn Giant Cauliflower, Veitch's Autumn Pro- tecting, and Snow's Winter White Broccoli. The last-named will not be interfered with till February, and none of them are lifted till the heart is begin- ing to form. Replanted in rich soil, and kept watered, they soon strike root into it, and well pay for the trouble taken. Pits and frames may be utilised in a similar manner. Strong leaves gathered and tucked over advancing hearts will protect them from a moderately severe frost. Salading. — We have had Perfect Gem and Early Paris Market Cabbage Lettuces up to the present time, a very little frame protection being needed for these. Mixed with well blanched Endive a good salad is formed, the Lettuce being more .crisp and sweet than Endive. We shall now depend princi- pally upon curled and broad - leaved Endives, Chicory, if needed, a little forced Tarragon, and Mustard and Cress. Endives do not keep well in a Mushroom house, but it is there both these and Chicory blanch most readily. Small batches of the former should be drawn from the fruit houses or frames in which they are stored, being first tied up much as Lettuces are frequently treated, and be replanted in the Mushroom house in moist soil. They will blanch thoroughly in a few days, and if of good size equal any produced by the noted French growers. Too often it Is badly blanched, tough, and dry. A few strong roots of Chicory similarly treated will yield good cuttings of beauti- fully blanched, crisp, and pleasantly bitter leaves, and these, in many good judges' estimation, greatly improve a salad. Failing a Mushroom house, the Endive may be blanched where it is stored, either by tying up or covering it with boards, slates, or clean hay; while Chicory roots, if placed in pots and closely covered and set in a forcing house or warm frame, will soon be fit for use. A few clumps of Tarragon lifted and placed in either pots or fiat boxes will need but little heat to cause them to grow freely. Gentle heat is needed for the boxes of Mustard and Cress, weekly sowings being usually sufficient. W. I. M. Broad Beans. — Although one of the hardiest and the earliest sown of vegetables, the Broad Bean is far from being the most popular ; indeed, it may be classed as one of the least popular, for less space is now devoted to Broad Beans than formerly, and market growers too often find even a good crop to be almost unmarketable. Sow as early as we may, ( it is difficult to get Beans fit to gather earlier than Peas will turn in, and with very few exceptions Peas prove to be by far the most popular of these rival products. It is curious to read even now in one of our most pretentious of seed lists that the first sowing of Broad Beans should be of the Maza- gan, and be made in November. Experience has shown that not only Is nothing to be gained by such early winter sowings, but also that the Maza- gan, when grown, is of very inferior quality. It is also a fact that the Early Dwarf Cluster, or the Seville Longpod, it sown early in February, will rival the Mazagan in earliness and beat it in quality ; still, the Seville is not a robust bearer, and if the first sowing be of Johnson's Wonderful or its synonym, a good selection of the Dutch Longpod, the gain in crop may be considerable. Those who prefer the true Broad Windsor Bean served up at table with the skins removed (the be.st of all ways to .serve up these Beans) will find none better than a good selection of the Harlington Windsor. Put into shape by a fair trial, it is found that we have not so very many varieties of Broad Beans after all, and some two or three are amjjle for all ordinary purposes. A few are grown in most gar- dens, but generally only one picking is made. No doubt the wondrous increase in varieties of other vegetables, and manifest improvements in them, have done much to deviate the public taste from Broad Beans into other and more acceptable direc- tions.— A. D. Veiteh'a Autumn Giant Broccoli.— The self-protecting; clianictcr of this Hroci.'oli makes it very valuable. 'i'lie leaves conipleloly hide the heart, which can stand 10° of frost without harm. ' Besides this, it succeeds the Giant Autumn Cauli- flower admirably. I am now, the end of December, able to take up a supply of plants that have already formed heads, which will continue to furnish all we want for two or three weeks. I have taken care to have them well protected from severe frost. If this Broccoli has one fault, it is that it grows too large. I find it quite as hardy as Snow's Winter Broccoli, and much more reliable.— J. C. C. Trees and Shrubs. W. GOLDRING. THE SCARLET HORSE CHESTNUT. (^SCULDS RDBICUNDA.) In the early days of June the Scarlet Horse Chestnut is, perhaps, the most admired of all trees, for then it is in full perfection of bloom, and if it happens to be in close association with a Laburnum, or some other shrub or tree that by contrast acts as a foil to its gorgeous array of scarlet bloom, the sight is more effective. One cannot complain that this is a neglected tree ; on the contrary, it is one of the corn- group of Horse Chestnuts, for the scarlet variety being of much smaller growth, a tree or two planted on the margin brings the sky-line down in a pleasing way. The Pavias, the close relatives of the Horse Chestnuts, are also useful for the same purpose. The Scarlet Horse Chestntit (flowers, flower- ing and fruiting branches of which are repre- sented in the annexed cut) flourishes undejr the same conditions as the common Horse Chestnut, which requires a deep, free, loamy soil ; but while the common Chestnut thrives best if sheltered, the scarlet kind will bear a deal of exposure to winds, being more compact in growth and not so large. The largest trees of the scarlet kind I have seen were not above 40 feet high, the average height being from 20 feet to 30 feet. The synonyms of ^Esculus rubicunda are somewhat numerous, but in gardens and nurseries it is either called JE. rubicimda or JE. carnea, which latter, if representing 'a variety, is not very different. It is also ca'led The Scarlet Horse Chestnut (.^sculus rubicuuda) ; flowers, flowering and fruiting branches. nionest, especially about the London suburbs, where, in company with the Almond, Labur- num, Copper Beech, pink and crimson Tliorn, it is as familiar as the Laurel. Being of moderate size, of dense and shady growth, so handsome in bloom and so indifl'erent to an impure atmosphere, it has become a popular villa garden tree. For the country park and garden, for the town park, garden, street, or square, tliis tree is alike valuable, for it stands the sweeping winds on a bleak hillside and the smoke and dust (if a big town. It is often seen planted by itself in a garden or park, but though it there shows to perfection when glowing with scarlet bloom, I think it also produces a better eft'ect when grouped with other trees of dissimilar growth. The dense, roundedoutlineof the treeis somewhat too lumpy for it to be called a tree of handsome growth. It looks well when grouped with trees like the LaV)urnum, the Lombardy Poplar, and Copper Beech, and that is why one often sees such pretty effects in villa gardens when the trees are accidentally— rarely in- tentionally— grouped. In park-planting it is useful for relieving the heavy appearance of a JE. coccinea, ^E. rosea, and used to be known as Whitley's Scarlet. From its near relative, Pavia rubra, which has also red flowers, it may be distinguished by its larger size and more vigorous growth, by its deeper green leaves, and by its prickly fruit, those of all the Pavias being smooth. It is supposed to be a native of North America, though I believe that there is doubt about the origin of the tree. Some think it but a variety of tlie common Horse Chestnut. There are numerous forms to be seen in gardens and nurseries differing chiefly in the depth of colour of the flowers, but in the best nurseries only the highest coloured forms are grown. W. G. Pruning of shrubs. — I met with one phase of shrub-pruning a year or two since to which Mr. Goldring, in The Garden, Dec. .SI (p. (114), makes no reference. Near Reading, in an otherwise very nice garden, I saw this phase exemplified, as every shrub both deciduous and evergreen was cut or clipped to a perfectly round form. Still further, each shrub was individualised, no one being per- mitted to touch its neighbour. A more deplorable or objectionable example of shrub-pruning I never saw. Happily, the plan is a very rare one. With Jan. U, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 41 respect to the charge made that head gardeners usually ignore shrub-pruning or leave it to garden labourers, I am disposed to think that Mr. Gold- ring considerably exaggerates. As a rule, I have found gardeners very particular on that head, espe- cially that whilst haphazard cutting and slashing may destroy the whole harmony of the shrubbery, so also may the flowering wood of the best shrubs be removed. That is a system which neither em- ployer nor gardener could long endure. Still farther, there can be no doubt but that in dry, cold weather there is considerable charm in shrub-prun- ing, and it is an occupation which most gardeners appreciate. It is doubtful whether the best prun- ing is performed when left to be done in bulk during the winter season. It is during the summer rather that an occasional and judicious use of the knife will prove most serviceable in keeping shrubs within reasonable limits. — A. D. A beautiful shrub for covering a wall is Forsythia suspensa. It is a Japanese shrub, which in early summer bears a profusion of bell-like flowers of the clearest yellow. It is slender- stemmed and straggling when grown in the shrub- bery, but if placed against a wall, with its shoots loosely nailed to it, the plant will form a mass of gracefully drooping growths, which, when in bloom, will be a mass of yellow. It has a habit of sending out roots from its stems, and very often a plant that has been grown against a wall for years will be found to have parts of its stem and shoots firmly rooted in the joints of the wall. An example of this may be seen on one of the old waUs in Kew Gardens. It is a common shrub in nurseries, and can be planted now and onwards till March —W. G Tnrner'd Oak.— Qaercus Tarneri is among the most conspicuous Oaks at the present moment in the arboretum at Kew, on account of its luxuriant evergreen foliage, which is as perfect throughout the winter as that of the common Q. Ilex. It is of more cheerful aspect than Q. Ilex, its leaves being of a lighter green, and the head is not so dense. There are two good specimens at Kew, each about 20 feet high, with rounded heads. The leaves are similar in size and form to those of Q. glandulifera, or what is known also as Q. austriaca sempervirens ; but while the foliage of that Oak already wears a shabby look, that of Q. Tarneri is quite green. The Luoombe and Fulham Oaks are also beginning to turn rusty, so that Q. Turneri is a better evergreen than either. It is not much known in nurseries, but Messrs. Lee have it in their Isleworth arbore- tum, where I saw a tree having the leaf-stalks dis- tinctly reddish. We want more of these fine evergreen Oaks in gardens in winter. Some object to the funereal look of the common evergreen Oak, Q. Ilex, but there are no evergreen trees known, ex- cepting Conifers, to surpass it for winter effect. Q. Tarneri is said to be a hybrid between Q. Ilex and our native Oak, which is not unlikely ; but, be that as it may, it is a valuable winter tree, and I should be glad to know if there are any fine trees of it in old gardens. — W. G. are growing it largely. It used to be ouly grown against a wall, for which it is very smtable, but it flowers quite as freely when growing as a bush, and I should always include it in the choicest selection of shrubs. — W. SHORT NOTES.— TREES AND SERUBS. The Cupressus figured in The Garden (p. 3) as Cupressus striota is synonymous with C. sempervirens, the former name having been used by Miller. Stricta is also given as a synonym in Gordon's "Pinetum." We insert this to prevent a possible confusion of names. — Ed. Veronica Tr aver si. —Allow me to add this to the list in The Garden, Dec. 31 (p. 617), of shrubs for t'ornung ornamental hedges. In Surrey, at any rate, it IS perfectly hardy ; its close growth, pretty foliage, and Howers made me try it for this purpose in an ex- posed part of our experimental garden at Oakwood, Wisley, so far with success.— George F. Wilson. Viburnum plieatum, having now become much commoner, and consequently cheaper in nurseries than it used to be, out;ht to he planted in groups of three or four together on the margins of shrubbery in a spot where its glorious masses of snow-white clusters will show themselves. I find it a strong-growing shrub, liking a heavy soil and a fully exposed position. Those nurserymen who believe in only the best things among hardy trees and shrubs have great faith in it, and Societies and Exhibitions. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL. January 10. The first meeting for 1888 was held on Tuesday last in the conservatory at South Kensington, and though this is a dull season for fiowers, there were several things of interest, the principal features comprising Primulas and Cyclamens which are now in full perfection. There were a few Orchids and other plants of minor importance. First-class cer- tificates were granted as under : — Angb^cum Sandbbianum.— This is a beautiful addition to the Angrsecum genus now abounding in choice species. It has something of the character of A. Ellisi, and in expression the flower may be likened to a small bloom of Dendrobium bigibbum, having the same exquisite neatness and compact- ness. A plant was shown on a block covered with Sphagnum Moss, and the racemes spring from the base of the dull green, thick, leathery leaves, that are fairly abundant. The raceme is about 18 inches in length, and stands out boldly, supporting several flowers of great purity and powerful fragrance ; the sepals are narrow, sharply pointed ; the petals being rather broader and about the same size as the lip ; while the glistening white spur is between 1 inch and 2 inches long. The somewhat loose character of the raceme gives it a desirable elegance, that would be plainly seen if several specimens were sus- pended in the Orchid house. Shown by Messrs. Sander and Co., St. Albans. CtpbipbdiumTautzianum. — Cypripediumshave multiplied exceedingly during the past two or three years, but there are few that can rival this for dis- tinctness. We have here a break away from the monotony of browns and shades of the same, the whole flower having a bright appearance. It is a hybrid between the old C. barbatum and C. niveum, and it has the lip of C. niveum and the foliage of C. barbatum. The purplish stem bears a flower of fine proportions ; the dorsal sepal showing lines and a suffusion of rose-drimson ; the centre tinged with green, and the whole set ofi" by a broad white upper margin. Rich colouring is given by the dull rosy red petals, spotted with deep brown, and edged with short black hairs ; the lip and crest also being of the same hue, relieved in the case of the former with a white base, the crest having a centre of the same character. From Mr. Tautz, Studley House, Shepherd's Bush. OxBEA PULCHELLA.— This will be one of the finest new plants of the year, and one that the gar- dener may well note, as likely to prove exceedingly useful during the winter season. It is nearly related to the Clerodendrons, and first received public recognition last year, when it was figured (t. (5938) in Botanical Magazine, hamng been found a com- paratively short time previous in New Caledonia. Those who care for warm greenhouse climbers will find in this Oxera a veritable gem. It runs freely over the rafter, clothing it with a Camellia-like foliage, and the ivory-white flowers are crowded together in large clusters or bunches that weigh down the flexible stems, and impart elegance to the specimen. Individually, the flowers are like those of a large Clerodendron, the corolla being bell- shaped, deeply cut, and proceeding from a smaller calyx, while the stamens protrude some little dis- tance from the main body of the blooms ; these have considerable substance, and even when much handled do not fall off. From Mr. F. Ross, gardener to Sir G. Macleay, Pendell Court, Bletchingley. Primula Miss Eva Fish.— The double varieties of Primula are being improved, a more robust habit and greater freedom of flowering being now notice- able. This is a noteworthy addition, as the flowers, besides their full double form, are of a peculiar and distinct colouring, being of a mauve shade with a thin white marginal line. From Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley. Rhododbndeon Pbimeosb. — Here we have another departure, by the crossing of certain species and varieties, so as to infuse a more bushy Azalea- like habit into the plant. Out of about halt a dozen plants shown this, which was selected for a certifi- cate, is a cross between the Sumatran species, R. Teysmanni, and the hybrid R. Maiden's Blush. The flowers are somewhat like those of R. Teysmanni in colour, and it is noticeable that the species in almost every instance has infused its colour into the variety. Here the flowers, which are rich primrose in colour with a shade of buff, are of fine form, and not reflexed, as in those cf R. Teysmanni. Another feature is the broad, deep green Camellia-like foliage. If a race of bushy- habited Rhododendrons can be promoted, it will popularise the plants considerably. Shown by Messrs. Veitch, Chelsea. L^LIA ANCEPS ScHECBDBE^. — We have several excellent forms of this Mexican Orchid, and another that must be recorded is this, from the collection of Baron Schroeder, The Dell, Egham. Flowers were exhibited that display the form of a good L. anceps, but the colour is very rich. The sepals are of rosy tint, petals deeper, and shading to a still darker hue at the tips. The upper portion of the lip is rich crimson, intensified with a yellow crest, and purple pencilling in the throat. Phal^nopsis F. L. Ames. — This has for its parentage P. amabilis (Blu.) or P. grandiflora (Lind ), and P. intermedia Portei, and is a very pretty and distinct hybrid. A plant was shown, the raceme carrying three or four expanded flowers with several in bud. The sepals and petals are white, while colouring is given by the lip, the upper portion of which has a flush of rose on a white ground, but on the lower half this rose colour is laid on a ground of yellowish hue. The lateral lobes are suffused and pencilled with rose, the base having spottings of purple that give rich beauty to the flower. From Messrs. Veitch. Mbdlab The Royal.— Medlars are never likely to become popular fruits, as their appearance is against them, and comparatively few appreciate the mealy, soft flesh. This is one grown by Mr. Rivers, of Sawbridgeworth,and was the best out of a number tried. The fruits are larger than those of the ordi- nary type, a little less acid — a disadvantage — and borne freely. They make' capital jelly, and for this Medlars are to be recommended, as they require to be quickly used, owing to their tendency to become mouldy. Mr. Rivers advises the fruits to be kept in quite a cool place if not wanted for immediate use. Cyclamens were a feature of the meeting, and a handsome group was put up by H. Page and Sons, Grove Nursery, Teddington, who cultivate this winter flower very successfully. The plants were full of flowers, which displayed various shades of pink, whites being numerous, and occasionally there were varieties of deep crimson hue. They were also of robust habit, and the stems vigorous and sturdy. That an advance is being made in re- spect to the Cyclamen is evident. A silver-gilt Banksian medal was awarded. Messrs. Cannell and Sons, of Swanley, made a fine display with double and single-flowered Pri- mulas. The whole of the plants were of excellent habit, and the trusses shown well above the leaves. Amongst the single varieties noteworthy were King of the Primulas, deep crimson, fine pip; Improve- ment, similar colour; The Queen, a handsome va- riety, blush, wavy edges, and of good substance; White Perfection, clear white; Princess Beatrice, pale mauve, pretty white edge; Swanley Giant, purple-magenta; Cannell's White Plain Leaf, pure white; and Princess of Wales, blush. Of the double forms the best were Miss Eva Fish, pre- viously noted ; Marchioness of Exeter, white, with a trace of blush; Earl Beaconsfield, deep rose-pink; and the old double white. A silver-gilt medal was awarded. Mr. James, of Farnham Royal, showed blooms of his fine strain of Chinese Primula. Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea, showed several Javanese Rhododendrons that will be the 42 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 14, 1888. progenitors of a new race; the object in view being to obtain a more bushy habit. ThisisbeirgHone by the crossing of various species and varieties likelv to produce the wi.-hed for result. The new forms ehown were Little Benutv, a crns-s between K Malayanum and H. Monarch; the flowers are of the same character as tho>e of the species, but larger, brighter, and borne far more freely ; Eclatant, pro- duced by cros.sing R. Curtisi with R. Princes.'^ Alexandra, the flowers deep crimson ; and R Prim- rose, already mentioned. A seedling shown was from R. jasminiflorum and R. Curtisi, the colour very deep. Orchids were few, but possessed considerable in- terest. Cypripediums predominated, and four inte- resting hybrids came from Mr. F, G. Tautz, Studley House, Shepherd's But^h. C. pleuroneuron has a dorsal sepal banded with green, the petals rich red and the lip narrow, reddish at the apex, yellowish at the base, and veined with green. C. concinnum is a loose flower of the venustum type, and C. Mar- shallianum, the result of a cross with C. concolor and C. venustum, has a flower like the former, espe- cially in respect to the lip, and the foliage of venustum. The shell-shaped dorsal sepal is flushed with rosy pink dotted with chocolate-crimson, as is found more or less in C. concolor ; the sepals and petals are broad, of the same hue, and the lip is yellow at the upper margin, and also freely spotted. It is a most distinct flower, but as shown wants regularity of form. Cypripedium Galatea came from Messrs. Veitch and Sons. It is a hybrid of uncertain parentage, but has something of the insigne character about it. The flower is large ; dorsal sepal spotted brown and flushed with green in the centre, and having a broad white upper margin ; the petals and lip are both lightly coloured. Mr. A. Smee, The Grange, Wallington, Surrey, sent Lajlia anceps Protherce- auum, with flowers about the same size as those of any ordinary form of the type, richly coloured, the lip finely striped inside with magenta and purple at the expanded front, the ridge yellow ; Epidendmm polybulbon, a small-flowered kind, the white lip forming the chief beauty of the flower ; and Odon- toglossum Rossi Smeeanum, like the type, but desti- tute of the rich brown spottings ; the only colour, save the spotless white petals, is in the light brownish sepals. It is no advance on the old O. Rossi as shown, but may improve with cultivation. Mr. R. Measures, Flodden Lodge, Camberwell, had Cypri- pedium insigne Fostermanni, with a curiously mot- tled lip ; C. regale and C. apiculatum, both bold, handsome flowers; and C. Sallieri, a fine flower; the dorsal sepal greenish, spotted deep red; the petals and lip light yellowish brown. Angnccum calligerum came from Messrs. Low, of Clapton. It is a coarse kind, the leaves stout, and leathery, the thick, deep green raceme carrying a few white flowers ; sepals and petals of about equal size ; the spur some .'! inches long, and the whole clear white. There were three expanded blossoms. As shown it is not of great beauty, but a better specimen may alter this opinion. A fine specimen of the old C. insigne with fifty-one expanded flowers came from Mr. J. Quarterman, gardener to Mr. A. S. Smith, Silvermere, Cobham. Fruit committee.— The exhibits were very few. The .Medlar named The Royal, shown by Mr. Rivers, will be found described in the list of certificated BuVjjects. Messrs. Pearson and Sons, Chilwell, Notts, exhibited fruits of Newton Wonder Apple, which was certificated at the previous meeting and then de- scribed. It is a showy variety, and remains for a long time in good condition. A Grape named White Gros Colman, from Mr, .f. Robert.i, The Gardens, Charleville Forest, Tullamore, Ireland, does not appear to be an acquisition. It has heavily shouldered bunches, but the berries are smaller than those of the type and of rounded form. It was raised from seed of Gros Colman. It would be unfair to give a de- cided opinion as to its merits, the bunches coming to hand considerably damaged. An improved heart- ing Kale was sent from Messrs. Hurst, of Hounds- ditch, and Tomatoes from Mr. E. Newton, Sussex House, Hitchin. The Royal Pearmain Apple came moderate grower and good and constant cropper. | W. G A seedling Apple, somewhat resembling Mincbal \ below Crab, was shown by Messrs. W. Bnrron and Sons, The Nurseries, Elvaston. It is highly coloured and of medium size. A special meeting was held in the East Crush Room of the Albert Hall on Tuesday last to con- firm the resolutions passed at the last meet- ing, which took place on Dec. 12, 1887. Dr. Hogg occupied the chair, and after the reading of the minutes the resolutions were confirmed, the only alteration being that clause 7 of the circular is now added to those of 6 and 8. Mr. Barr and Mr. Herbst made some remarks with reference to the guinea members, holding the opinion that these associates of the society ought to have a voice in its affairs ; but as the object of the meet- ing was merely to confirm resolutions, the matter was referred to the committee appointed to consult with the council. NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY. The January show of this society has become an annual event, and, the encouraging results justify its continuance. This year's exhibition was held, as usual, at the Royal Aquarium, and was a veritable surprise to those who know the difliculty of obtain- ing flowers as late as this. They were fresh, finely coloured, and, on the whole, of fair form, especially in one or two stands, which would have had no small place in an autumn competition. It is evi- dent that an interest is aroused in the late Chrysan- themums, and their value is unquestionable, as they withstand fogs and other evils that injure the flowers of many other things, especially if they are at all delicate. As time goes on the list of new late kinds will undoubtedly increase, and on this occa- sion two acquisitions were gained. There were several classes, and as good prizes were offered, there was an excellent competition. Mr. Joseph Lowe, The Nurseries, Uxbridge, was well to the front in the class for a collection, and he staged several boxes of flowers, which were un- usually creditable, and represented considerable variety ; grandiflora was well put up, also Lowe's Bronze, a highly coloured bronzy red Japanese, Elaine, Princess "of Teck, Thunberg, Ceres, Princess Blanche, good petal, clear fine white, and Lucien Baltet, rich crimson-magenta ; Mr. G. Bolas, gar- dener to Mr. H. Chandos Pole-Gell, Hopton Hall, Wirksworth, was second. For twenty-four blooms, any kind.s, Mr. R. F. Jameson, Hessle, near Hull, was first, and in his stand were unusually good flowers of Lord Alcester, John Salter, fine in colour and form, Fleur de Marie, Louis Bonamy, Mile. A. Brunei, a white flower, Mrs. Heale, Miss Mar- guerite, and Pink Christine. The second place was occupied by Mr. Sullivan, gardener to Mr. D. B. Chapman, Downshire House, Roehamp- ton, who had capital flowers of Ceres, and Mme. Auguste Tezier, a Japanese variety, of reddish- bronze colour, very pretty. In the class for twelve blooms, Mr. J. Kipling, gardener to Earl of Lytton, Knebworth, was the most successful, his stand con- taining a richly-coloured flower of Etoile du Midi, very deep crimson ; the second was Mr. H. Lister, gardener to Lord Brooke, the Gardens, Easton Lodge, Dunmow, Essex. In the class for twenty- four Japanese kinds, Mr. Sullivan was chief prize- taker, putting up fresh, full, and excellent flowers for the season of the year. Ainongst them was the Japanese variety D. li. Chapman, a mass of thread- like florets, forming a full, dense, interesting flower of considerable width ; the colour is wholly purple- magenta ; Ceres, gloriosa, Jlme. Audiguier and Duchess of Albany, yellow-shaded bronze, were noticeable ; the second award went to Mr. J. Horse- field, the Gardens, Heytesbury, who had large flowers, but wanting in finish ; Carew Underwood, a reddish-salmon Japanese variety, was well .shown. Mr. J. Kipling showed well in the class for twelve flowers, and an interestiog fea- ture was made by the class for six blooms, in hich Messrs. W. and G. Drover, Fareham, were the most successful. The six put up by them would from Mr. Dean, of Bedfo'nt, and is described as a have stood well at a November show, and included Drover, a new Japanese kind, described gloriosum, bicolor, and Mrs. W. Mencke. A special certificate of merit was granted. Mr. R. Phillips, gardener to Dr. Baker, The Deodars, , Meopham, came second. Bouquets of Chrysanthe- mums were a pleasing feature, as they were taste- fully put together. Mr. W. Brown, nurseryman, Richmond, won the first prize, for an elaborate arrangement ; Mr. Joseph Lowe, The Nurseries, Uxbridge, was second — the rich brown leaves of the Mahonia made a fine contrast with the flowers, and this foliage is not used often enough for asso- ciating with Chrysanthemums. Special prizes were offered by Mr. Owen, of Maidenhead, for twelve blooms of his Golden Gem variety. Mr. F. Weeden, Hillingdon, Uxbridge, showed it in fine form with the foliage. It is appropriately named, being a clear rich yellow, and both neat and full. Mr. A. Ives, gardener to Mr. E. C. Jukes, Hope House, Winchmore Hill, was second, but the blooms were not in character, havingadistinct reddish bronze tint. Amongst a few miscellaneous exhibits were new annual single Chrysanthemums from Mr. J. May, gardener to Captain Le Blanc, Northaw House, Ba,rnet, but their value at this season is not very evident — we prefer them in their natural season ; and a sport from Mrs. Carey, named Christmas Beauty, that may prove something good. It was shown by Mr. W. R. Strong, Wissington College, Wokingham. It would be unwise to depend on Chrysanthemums to make up an exhibition now, so other prizes were offered for Cyclamens, Primulas, and Solanums, &c. For a collection of Cyclamens in pots, Mr. J. May was first with plants full of vigour and well flowered. Mr. A. Carter, gardener to Alderman Evans, Ewell Grove, Ewell, was first for twelve Cyclamens ; Mr. W. Kent, gardener to Mr. H. Barry, Bushill House, Winchmore Hill, second. A good class was that for a collection of Primulas, Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, of Swanley, taking the lead. There were many varieties shown, particulars of which will be found in our report of the Royal Horticultural Society, at whose meeting they were also exhibited; Mr. G. Braid, Winchmore Hill, came second. Mr. A. Carter was first for twelve plants; his examples were well flowered, especially those of the old double white : Mr. A. Newell, gar- dener to Sir E. Saunders, Fairlawn, Wimbledon Common, was second, putting up single varieties, representing skilful culture. There were two classes for Solanums, one for six and one for twelve plants. In both instances Mr. P. Cornish, gardener to Mr. J. Downing, The Shrubbery, Enfield, secured the first places. The plants were laden with large berries. The finest exhibit of this section of the exhibition was the group of forced and foliage plants put up by Messrs. Henry Williams and Sons, Fortis Green, Finchley, who were first in the class for these. The Hyacinths were as fine as the majority of those seen in March. The same firm were first for a collection of thirty-six pots of Tulips, the bulbs ex- tremely well flowered and the foliage excellent. The display of Primulas and Cyclamens made by Messrs. Sutton and Sons, of Reading, was note- worthy, as it occupied considerable space, and the plants were full of flower. Amongst the Cyclamens, Queen of the Dwarfs, White Butterfly, both described below ; Cliant Rose and Giant Crimson deserve mention as showing the gradual improve- ment of this gay flower. The Primulas were well grown, and comprised numerous varieties, some of which were awarded certificates. A double blue was noticeable, and the single type was also shown ; a real blue is gradually being obtained. A silver- gilt medal was deservedly awarded. First-class certi- ficates were awarded as follows: — To Messrs. Sutton for Cyclamens Queen of the Dwarfs and White Butterfly ; the first has a dense habit and medium-sized white flowers ; the last- mentioned has clear white blooms, produced with great freedom; also for Chinese Primula Giant Red, a single variety of good colour, and P. Piootee- edged, a distinct break, white, with broad edge of pink, a pretty flower ; Primula Fern-leaf Scar- let, the first Fern-leaved variety in this particular line of colour yet raised, was commended. Jan. U, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 43 To Messrs. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, for Pri- mula Miss Cannell, a single variety, with white flowers tinged with rose-pink, and borne in a sturdy truss well above the foliage ; and P. Miss Eva Fish, which was certificated at South Kensington on the previous Tuesday. To Mr. John May, Gordon Nursery, Twickenham, for Cyclamen May Queen, a robust variety, with large flowers lightly tinted with magenta. To Messrs. W. and G. Drover, Fareham, for Chr j san- themum W. G. Drover, a coarse, large variety, dense, full, and in better condition than seen in the autumn. The petals are broad and rose-pink, making up a showy Japanese exhibition flower. To Mr. T. S. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Totten- ham, for Chrysanthemum Governor of Guernsey, a variet y of distinct appearance and thorough Japanese character. It was raised from seed in Guernsey, and has medium-sized blooms, full, dense, the petals sharply pointed and of a telling rich yellow colour. It will be strange if this does not And great favour as a late Chrysanthemum. A meeting of the general committee of this society was held on Thursday, the 5th inst , at Anderton's Hotel, Fleet Street. Mr. Sanderson, the president, occupied the chair. After the minutes of the former meeting had been read and confirmed, it was resolved that the annual general meeting be held at Anderton's Hotel on Tuesday, the 31st inst. A list of oilers of special prizes was then read and accepted. They were from Messrs. Webb and Sons, Mr. Deverill, Mr. Fidler. The prize from M. De- laux was not accepted until further particulars are received from him. Messrs. Cannell and Sons also made the offer of £20, as they did last year, but, after very much discussion, it was resolved that in- stead of these prizes being awarded by ballot the exhibits should be judged in the ordinary way. It was also resolved that a meeting of the floral com- mittee be held on the occasion of the January show. The Winchester Society was admitted in affiliation. New Fellows and members were elected, and Mr. Holmes having announced that all details for the January show having been perfected, it was hoped that every effort on the part of the members would be made to ensure a satisfactory display. NOTES OF THE WEEK. The plant figured last week under the name of Zephyranthes Atamaseo is Z. carinata. On a future occasion Mr. Moou will draw us both species on the same plate, and thus make better known two beautiful plants. Mr. Denman, of Catherine Street, has sent us several flowers of the beautiful Deutsche Perle Azalea, now in great request. Pine-apple Salvia (S. rutilans) is a familiar greenhouse plant that makes a great show of scarlet flowers during the winter season. Just now it is very good at Pendell Court, Bletchingley. A new public park. — We learn that 14 acres of ground have been given in Myatt's Fields, Camber- well, for the purposes of a public park. The new park will, it is believed, be bounded by KnatchbuU Road, Burton Road, and Flodden Road. A new Butterfly Orchid in the shape of a pure white Phalipnopsis Schilleriana, or vestalis, is, we learn from Messrs. H. Low and Co., now in flower in their Clapton nursery. This must he an interesting novelty. Lilies of the Valley.— Mr. W. Allan, of Gun- ton Park, Norwich, has forwarded flowers of the beautiful white Hoop-petticoat Daffodil (N. mono- phyllus). Iris reticulata, and Lilies of the Valley. The Wallflower-like fragrance of the Iris was most powerful, and especially agreeable at this season. Both the Berlin and Dutch varieties of the Lily of the A^alley were sent, and the Berlin type has the advantage. It makes a shorter, stronger growth, and the bells are rather larger, but the Dutch has longer spikes. Oalanthus corcyrensis. — Unless for eailiness of blooming, the plant now in flower at Kew under the above name differs extremely little from the typical G. nivalis. It may be briefly described as follows : Leaves two, about the same length and breadth as those of the type, but with a white line broader than the midrib on the upper surface. The flower is that of the ordinary G. nivali.", though perhaps a trifle smaller. If this be the natural time of flowering it is certainly an acquisition, as very few of the other kinds are as yet little more than showing themselves above ground.— K. Dendrobicm Fytchianum. — Mr. Frederick Bedford, Straflan House Gardens, Co. Kildare, has sent us a spike of Dendrobium Fytchianum carry- ing nineteen flowers, and mentions " It is a pretty small-growing species, not often met with." We quite agree with these remarks. This Dendrobe has frail and beautiful flowers of exquisite whiteness, relieved only by the tiny mauvy rose-coloured lateral lobes of the lip. It is a species that those who re- quire choice flowers for cutting should make a point of growing ; it comes from Moulmein. The spike sent is evidently from a plant that has been well grown, as about ten flowers in a raceme is the usual number. The Strawberry tree (Benthamia fragifera). — Devonshire is not the only county in which the Strawberry tree is hardy. It is equally so in the south of Hampshire, as there is a fine specimen in my nursery nearly 20 feet high and bushy, which has been growing in poor clayey soil in an exposed situation without any protection for upwards of fifty years. It has borne many bushels of its peculiar Strawberry-looking fruits, the seeds from which have readily vegetated and supplied number- less plants. Camellias, too, are quite hardy here. Six fine specimens, which were planted near to and at the same time as the Benthamia, are still quite healthy and growing luxuriantly. — W. H. Rogeks, Soxdhamjticm. Iiselia ancepa is the Orchid of the season, and there are few kinds that give such a surprising depth of vivid colours. At Gunnersbury Park there are two excellent forms, one of the plants bearing several spikes ; while at the Chelsea nursery of Messrs. Veitch there is a basket filled with this Mexi- can species, approaching more the variety Barkeriana in colour. At the same place the true L. Dawsoni is showing a small spike, and this impresses us with its purity and sweetness. It opens greenish at first, but this changes to a clear white, relieved only by the radiating purplish lilac lines on the inside of the lateral lobes of the lip, and the rosy purple of the expanded front ; there is also a yellow ridge near the column. At South Kensington on Tuesday last a fine form of L. anceps was certificated, as will be seen by reference to the report. Angreecum sesquipedale. — There are several plants of this noble species now flowering at the Chelsea nursery of Messrs. Veitch, and it is also the principal attraction in many Orchid houses at the present time. It is an extraordinary plant, grotesque as regards the expression of the flowers, but withal beautiful and interesting, displaying distinct and handsome characters. It is one of the introductions of the Rev.W. Ellis from Madagascar, and he found it thriving on trees. In colour the flowers are ivory white, of considerable width, and furnished with a tail about 12 inches in length, while they are borne at the rate of one to four on the sturdy peduncles. In close proximity to London, the flowers do not attain the beauty they are capable of in the country, as smoke, dust, and dirt, besides other evils in- separable from London, have to be battled with. The destruction to Orchid flowers by London fogs is enormous in such places as Chelsea. The Chorozemas are among the moreimportant of what are called New Holland plants, which a generation ago were largely grown. Fancy such a beautiful genus as Chorozema being banished from the average garden of to-day. A collection of well- grown plants of them in bloom is one of the prettiest sights in the way of flowers that one could wish for in January, and what dainty little coat or dress bouquets could be made with their bright flowers and prickly leaves like those of a miniature Holly. At Kew one may see just now several kinds in flower in the temperate plant house. The prettiest kinds are C. varium and its variety Chandleri, which has its Pea-like flowers coloured orange and purple- scarlet. Another, called C. flavum, apparently a variety of C. varium, also has flowers of clear yellow. C. cordatum has red atd yellow flowers, and one called C. elegans, though with tiny flowers, is an exquisite little plant. The specimens are smothered with blooms, which will last a long time. The flowering shoots are not tied in rigidly, which so often spoils half the beauty of New Holland plants, but are allowed to go free. The Chorozemas are not so diflicult to grow and flower well as some other hard-wooded plants which are well known f o test the skill of the gardener. The culture of Ntw Holland plants is, we fear, a lost art, although some people think it probable that hard-wooded plants will again come into fashion. A new plant for which we may predict a great future is Osera pulchella. This was the most inte- resting exhibit at the meeting of the Royal Horti- cultural Society on Tuesday last, and will be found described in the report. It is a magnificent acqui- sition, flowering, as it does, at this season, and hss the appearance of a thoroughly useful subject ft r climbing over a greenhouse rafter. There will l e no patient waiting for the plant to attain a re.'pecf- able size, as we learn from Mr. Ross that the speci- men from which the large clusters of bloom weie gathered was, about two years ago, a mere cutting, and first tried in a cool house with Lapagerias, but it failed to grow satisfactorily. All wes changed, however, when it was transferred to a warm house, where it soon rambled over the rafter, giving an abundance of ivory-white Clerodendron- like fiowers. We hope to give a coloured plate of this beautiful Oxera. Eucharis blooms in mid- winter.— I enclose a photograph of E amazonica, which was taken on December 22, 1887. The plant carried thirteen spikes and twenty-two open flowers. I also have another, at present in full flower, bearing flftetn spikes. The plants are grown in 10-inch pots, also a few in 4, 5, and (i-inch pots, a single bulb in each. These are just coming into flower, and are found very useful for house decoration. I grow Eucharis Sanderi and Eurycles Cunninghami, but they do not succeed nearly so well as the old kind. The plants I have now flowering with me bloomed in the early spring of 1887, and a few odd spikes appeared through the summer. There are from three to seven flowers on each spike. I also enclose you a flower-spike of one of the large plants, also one of the smallest bulbs in flower, taken from a 4-irch pot. — John Thomsox, Dennis Hall. *,5* With this note came flowers of E. amaznnica cut from an old specimen and a fuiall bulb that had been grown in a 4-inch pot. The flowers; were large and plentiful. Growing the Eucharis in small pots is evidently a good way. — Ed. The following table shows the amount of rain we had here during 1887 ; — , Inches. Inches. .lanuary ... 2-04 August ., 1-2,5 February ... 071 September . 3 09 March ... 1-53 October .. 1-48 April... ... 1-32 November . . . ... 2 20 May ... 2-50 December . . . . 1-53 .lune... ... 0-66 July ... 1-27 i;)-64 — W. Ingram Be Ivoir. " T." — The pubUsher of The Garden can supply the hook, post free, for 6s. 3d. Names of plants. — J. Asliford.—l, Eucalyptus sp. ; 2, Ccelogyne cristata ; 3, Correa speetabilis ; 4, Phormium tenax variegatum; 5, Aspidistra lurida; (!, Dicksonia antarctica. F. J. if.— Next week. ;- W. M. Jlfc— Apparently a Fittonia; send better speci- men. T. Bi-oioji.— Flowers were too much smashed to identify. Names of fruits.—^4s?i/oj-d.— Small Apple, Clay- gate Pearmain ; large. Winter Hawthornden. Ardee, — Apples, 1, Adam's Pearmain ; 2, Beauty nf Kent ; 3, Scarlet Russet; 5, Yorkshire Beauty. Pears, 1, Easter Beurre; 2, Beurre Ranoe. 0. H.— 1, Wal- tham Abbey Seedling; 2, Minchal Crab; 4, not known. W. A'.— Apple, Winter Strawberry. Learner. — 1, New Hawthornden; 4, Adam's Pearmain; 7, Northern Greening ; others next week. 44 THE GARDEN. [Jan. U, 1888. WOODS & FORESTS. THE ALDER. In view of the vast tracts of barren marshy ground, which in their present condition are yielding little or nothing to the owners of such, in Great Britain and Ireland, the question may well be asked. Can nothing be done to reclaim such and render them both profitable and useful ? It has sometimes been suggested to plant these places ; at other times we are told that they are incapable of producing timber trees of a proper size to pay the expense incurred in the plant- ing and yield a profitable return. No doubt there are a few species of trees unsuitable for planting in marshy ground, but happily there are several other varieties that can be planted with success, and one of the best is the common Alder. This hardy native tree not only grows, but thrives in such ground, and attains a useful size in a comparatively short time, and as its wood is keenly sought after and commands a ready sale, I can confidently recommend it to the notice of the planter. Although the Alder grows in marshy ground where few other trees can exist, yet to grow it successfully the ground should be drained as well as circumstances will allow. Some places of this description are liable to be inundated by water for a con- siderable time during winter. Such land, how- ever, I have planted successfully during March and April, and when once the Alder gets esta- blished the annual flooding with water appears not to hurt the trees in the least. This class of ground varies so much in character, that the mode of drainage must be settled in detail on the spot. In cases where there is a good outlet, a single drain cut at the most advantageous spot will sometimes dry a considerable area, while at other times the drains require to be cut at a distance apart of 6, 9, 12, and 18 feet, the depth of these to be regulated in a great measure by the depth of soil above the water line. The soil excavated here should be spread over the surface, which will improve the texture of the ground and add a little to its depth. Ground prepared in this way may be either planted or the seeds sown broadcast upon the surface. The Alder is so hardy, that self-sown seeds soon make fine trees. When once the trees are thoroughly established they make rapid pro- gress, and in order to attain success the trees should be grown rather thickly. The planter's object should always be to produce fine clean wood, free of knots or blemish of any ktcd that would lessen its value in the market. I have sometimes found certain classes of home-grown timber to be rather a drug in the market at any price, but in all my experience I have never found any difficulty in selling a lot of really good Alder at a fairly remunerative price. Some forty years ago I have known Alder sold at 12s. per t(jn, the purchaser to fell, prepare, and take delivery of tlie trees at his own expense, but the value of good wood has risen since that time considerably. In recent years I have sold Alder wood at KJd. and Is. per cubic foot. Sometimes 1 have sold it at 20s. per ton, the trees to bo cut and prepared at the proprietor's expense. If we deduct Is. Cd. per ton for felling and cross- cutting the trees into the required lengths, we have ISs. Cd. in favour of the jiroprietor as the .value of his timber. The weifiht per cubic foot of timber varies a little, acccirding to the age of the trees and the soil on wliich they were pro- duced, but, as a general rule, I have found that it takes from 2:j cubic feet to 25 cuViic feet of Alder to weigh a ton. Although the Alder is highly suitable for planting in marshy ground, yet it is by no means confined to such, and can be grown to a profit- able size on ground of ordinary texture, espe- cially such as is of a damp character. I have grown some very fine Alder upon damp clay soil resting upon a cold clay subsoil, and as such land had failed to give a profitable return by tillage it was planted with Alder and Oak, both of which grew remarkably well, the former, however, giving by far the quickest and best return. The inferior, useless class of ground capable of growing the Alder to a profitable size, and the facility with which it can be established at small cost, either by sowing the seeds or plant- ing, ought to induce landed proprietors to plant these barren bog lands with it. Trees, unlike many other crops that can be produced in one season, require in many cases nearly a lifetime to attain maturity ; conse- quently many foreign States, impelled by wise counsel, are taking time by the forelock and planting extensively in order to keep up the sup- plies. Notwithstanding the great fuss which we have often heard regarding German schools of forestry and the extension of their woodlands, it would appear that they cannot supply their own demands, as may be gathered from Kemp's Mercaniile Gazette. The new law which will shortly come into force for the preservation of forests in Russia has caused great activity for the time being in the timber trade. Extensive orders have been received from Germany and England. On the same subject the »S'f. Petersburg (Jazetfc declares that the exports in the coming season will attain colossal dimensions. The ex- pected export duty on wood, prepared and unprepared, ha? also led to the Russian mer- chants concluding as many contracts as jiossible with foreign firms. All these facts point to a probable rise in the price of timber before long, and there can be no doubt, when foreign supplies begin to get exhausted, or even curtailed to any great extent, that prices will rise. This ought to stimulate owners of waste lands in this country to extends their forest ground as much as pos- sible, with the view of obtaining a good and profitable return for the capital thus spent. J. B. Web.ster. PRINCE ALBERT'S FIR. (ABIES ALBEKTIANA.) The noblest specimen of this handsome and hardy Fir in the British Islands is, no doubt, one of the many trees at Hafodunos, in North Wales, the beautifully situated estate of Mr. Sandbach. When measured by the surveyors of the Ordnance Survey in the spring of 1S78 it was 56^ feet in height, with girth of stem at 2 feet, 5 feet, and 10 feet from the ground of 48A inches, 47 inches, and 44 inches. Responding to a kind invitation from the owner, who is well known as one of the most enthusiastic arboriculturists in the country, I, a few days ago, took the measurements of the above tree, and found them as follows : height OG feet, girth of stem at a yard from the ground 6 feet, diameter of spread of branches :i6 feet. It is, in truth, a noble specimen, perfect in every respect, and with foliage of the richest and freshest description, the lower branches sweeping tlie greensward, and being as lithe and yielding as could well be desired. The bole, al- though well covered with branches, is as straight as an arrow, and of gradual taper throughout its entire length — not carrot-shaped, as we often find in ill-grown specimens of this noble Conifer. Twice has the walk which runs hard by the side of this bieautiful siiecimen— a specimen that is highly prized and duly tended in every want by its worthy owner — been shifted further from the tree, but again the lower branches have outgrown the prescribed boundary, and another change in the line of walk is contemplated. The position occupied by this fine tree is by no means a sheltered one, it being partially exposed on all sides ; while it may surprise not a few tree- lovers to know that the altitude at which it is growing so luxuriantly is between 700 feet and 800 feet. A good and rich clayey loam, not stiff and plastic, but tending rather to a gravelly soil, and resting at no great depth on a rotten whinstone rook, may be said to be the soil of which the park is principally composed. An interesting feature of the tree is the great number of cones it produces annually, and with which it was well covered at the time of my visit. Mr. Sandbach pointed out a number of young trees that had been raised from this parent plant, and these looked robust and healthy, and with a greater inclination to form but a [single leading shoot than is usually the case in home-raised plants. Now, it is very questionable if a larger and finer' specimen of Abies Albertiana than that just described is to be found in this country, and it would be interesting to have in The Garden the measurements of some of the larger ones. When we consider that it is only thirty-six years since this tree was introduced by Jeffery, through the Oregon Association of Edinburgh, and by whom, if I remember rightly, seeds were given to Mr. Sand- bach, who raised the fine tree alluded to, it must be admitted that the growth has been very rapid, seeing that the tree is planted at nearly 800 feet altitude in one of the most beautiful of Welsh mountain valleys. At the Caernies, in Perthshire, there are some magnificent specimens of this Fir, and these are growing, two of the largest, at least, at fully GOO feet altitude, and in poor, moory soil resting on a stiffish clay. These are, no doubt, the largest specimens of Prince Albert's Fir in Scotland, and were raised by that enthusiastic arboriculturist, Mr. George Pat ton, from the first importation of seeds, which arrived in 1851. Perthshire would seem to be famous for the production of noble specimens of the tree in question, for both at Abercairney and Moncrieffe House there are numerous trees of large proportions, and which are now making rapid growth. On the Churchill estate, in the north of Ireland, this beautiful Fir grows with great rapidity, one specimen in particular, growing in clayey loam, having attained the height of .30 feet in thirteen years. Many other examples of the rapid growth of Abies Albertiana might be adduced, but enough have, perhaps, been given to clearly show that, under ordinary conditions as to soil and exposure, it is a tree well suited for planting within the limits generally of tree growth in this country. The giant Arbor-vita; (Thuja gigantea) is well known to be a tree of very rapid growth, yet I took particular note, not a week ago, of one instance at least in the chalky soil of mid-Kent in which the Albert Fir had nearly kept pace with it for a period of ten years. I do not here refer to a single specimen of each, for there werefully half a hundred, and all planted under almost similar conditions. In Scotland, at Culcreuch, in Stirlingshire, this tree has been known to grow in one season more than 7 feet ; but such is the exception, and not the rule. Although some of the finest specimens of this tree in Britain are growing in deep loamy soil, yet, in the choice of such, it is certainly far from particu- lar, for on referring to my note-book I find that it succeeds admirably on deep, well-prepared peat bog, decayed vegetable refuse, rather stiffish clayey loam (as in the case of the Hafodunos specimen), and alluvial deposit. The timber of Abies Alberti- ana, as exhibited at the late Forestry Exhibition in Edinburgh, was certainly of excellent quality, and thanks are due to the Right Hon. J. Inglis, of Glen- corse, and his intelligent forester for the practical way in which they tested the wood by using it for fencing posts. One of those exhibited had been in the ground for five years, and yet appeared but little the worse; indeed, to all appearance it seemed quite as sound as if it had been placed in the soil only a month before. In its native country — principally the coast of British Columbia — it attains a height of 200 feet, but the usual size is 150 feet. A. D. W. THE GARDEN. 45 No. 844. SATURDAY Jan. 27 J888, VoLXXXlIf, "This is an Art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; The Art itself is '^ atvrk." ^Sbakes^eare. Fruit Garden. W. COLEMAN. POMOLOGICAL PROGRESS. It is gratifying to find that the Apple and Pear question is now engaging the attention of horti- culturists from Land's End to John o' Groats, but very wide of the mark fall some of the shots which the best friends of the grower and con- sumer have in view. Extremes, we are told, sometimes meet, but how this meeting is to benefit the Apple-growing community it is diffi- cult to imagine, eapeciaUy when every variety yet named as being the best has been written oft" as doubtful or unprofitable in certain parts ot the country. All, I believe, agree in saying Cox's Orange and Blenheim Pippin are two of the best all-round Apples grown, but all cannot grow them, a fair proof, as I have always as- serted, that soil quite as much as climate has a great deal to do with success or failure. The one-Apple man, our well-known friend, Mr. Waterer, succeeds to his heart's content with Cox's Orange Pippin on the peat, and desires no other. The best Mr. Baines has seen was grown in the bleakest part of Yorkshire ; in this locality it grows and fruits well on the marl ; but one variety — no matter how well it may do or over how wide an area it may succeed — is not enough ; we must have early and late sorts to lead up to and follow this splendid variety. The same may be said of Blenheim Orange, and if Mr. Jefferies is correct, its varieties vary considerably in shape not only in the same locality, but in the same orchard, but do they vary in their season of ripening > If they do not, all we have to do is to select the best, work them on good stocks, and trust to other sorts for prolonging the season. Assuming that Mr. Waterer could grow the Blenheim as well as he grows Cox's Orange Pippin, a fortune possibly might be made, but filling his pocket with gold would not keep our markets and private houses supplied from Sep- tember to May, and this continuous flow of the best, and none but the best, being the point at issue, the one- Apple end of the extreme must be pronounced faulty. A correspondent writing upon market Apples breaks ground, which may be of infinite value to the London growers, but of very little use to the private gardener or amateur who wishes to have good fruit as early and late as possible — who wishes, in fact, to have his shelves furnished eight months out of the twelve instead of empty for that length of time. With all these facts before us we can only arrive at the conclusion that a selection of a matter of two dozen sorts for any one neighbourhood is a very fair come- down to start with ; indeed, the more this ques- tion is turned over and discussed the more it becomes apparent that a very important step will have been made when we have condemned all the varieties ot Apples and Pears which, at the best, are inferior or second-rate throughout the kingdom. Growers for market can take care of themselves ; growers for ornament have plenty of choice, but private individuals still cling to varieties innumerable. This difficulty got over, nurserymen will soon exclude from their lists varieties which few planters require or inquire for, but so long as the public persist in ordering second and third-rate sorts, so long will these gentlemen keep up the supply, and who can blame them ? Fat lists well pared down, no class will be more thankful for than the "trade," but the public must take the initia- tive, and as yet I fail to see how they can better strengthen the hand of the editor of The Gar- den in his difficult task of selecting a given number of Apples and Pears than by enume- rating a Sew, if only half a dozen, which stand first in difi'erent localities. The names alone of the sorts they have thoroughly tested will not suffice; each contributor should give the variety of stock upon which the trees are worked, the soil and subsoil, altitude and shelter, and last, but not least, as far as possible the writer's name and address should take the place of initials. I lately read a paragraph in a trade paper to the effect that many employers do not allow their gardeners to rush into priut ; hence the necessity for initials. But this matter of competition with our colonists is an employer's question, and gardeners are the men who must not only work it out, but educate the agent and the tenant. Nine-tenths of the landed proprie- tors whose interests are at stake know this and appreciate each man's best endeavour, and the tenth might be convinced if this important sub- ject wore approached, discussed, and explained in a common-sense manner. RE-GRAFTING FRUIT TREES. The re-graftiDg of fruit trees and Vines, whether for the purpose of converting a barren tree into a fruitful one, or that of introducing some new va- riety, is such an interesting operation, and one usually attended with such good results, that the wonder is that any barren trees should exist in our gardens, or that worthless varieties should, year after year, continue to occupy valuable space, and receive as much attention as is bestowed on those which yearly produce crops of good fruit. I think the reluctance to head down and re-graft a worthless or inferior tree arises from a dislike to see bare spaces on a well-filled wall, or a break in an even row of trees. I know it requires some amount of determination to decide upon a change of this kind, but in a few years' time, when the re- grafted tree begins to bear crops ot superior fruit, we wonder why we delayed the operation so long. On a high south wall in the gardens here there was a fine horizontal-trained tree of Dr. Trousseau Pear. It was the largest and most healthy-looking tree on the wall, and yearly produced good crops of fruit, and although it is not a bad sort with us, it ripened at a time when other superior kinds were plentiful, and consequently was not often used. I grudged the tree the valuable space it occupied, and decided to have something better in its place. Four years ago all the branches were cut o2 to within 1 foot of the main stem and re-grafted with Doyenne? du Cornice and Louise Bonne of Jersey alternately, commencing with the top tier. AH the grafts but one took and the first year grew well ; the second year they made good growth, but not too strong ; and the third season Louise Bonne of Jersey carried a nice lot of fruit, large, and of beautiful colour and good flavour; and last year we had a fine crop. Doyenne du Cornice has not fruited much yet, but is now bristling with fruit-buds, and I ex- pect the re-grafted tree will this year fill the space occupied by the original one. The above illustrates how soon by the process of grafting a good variety can be substituted for a bad one. Old or neglected trees may often be renovated in a short time by re- grafting them with another variety. It is surprising the growth grafts will sometimes make on an old stock if the roots are in good con- dition; in two or three years' time a dilapidated tree with long spurs and weak growth can be re- placed by clean, fruitful wood. It is well when cutting off the branches for grafting not to cut in too hard. On horizontal-trained trees a foot should be left next the main stem to graft on, and all the spurs, which will greatly assist the circulation of the sap, and if desired may be allowed to carry a few fruits. On bushes and standards the more branches left for grafting the sooner a good head will be formed. Weak or slow-growing sorts are much improved by grafting them on stocks of free growth. About five years ago I bought three trees of Loddington Seedling Apple. They were small, and I do not think they have doubled in size since, but from grafts taken from them I re-grafted two bush trees of Brownlees' Russet, which are now 8 feet high and 6 feet through, all fruit-bearing wood. On another sort I have grafted Margil, a good dessert Apple, but of slow growth, and it is now growing and bearing as freely as Cox's Orange Pip- pin. Besides the above varieties of Apples, Golden Noble, Stirling Castle, Boston Russet, and others of similar habit of growth are improved ; and Winter Nelis, Doyenne du Cornice, Beurr^ Superfin, Marie Louise, &c., amongst Pears. Grafting is not so difficult as many people ima- gine ; on the other hand, it is a simple operation, and if two or three essential points are duly ob- served, success is almost certain. The best time for grafting is just as the buds are bursting, as the f ap is then well in motion. The scions should be kept in an almost dormant state until wanted, by nearly burying them in the soil in a cool place. Another important point is a perfect fit ; the scion should be cut to the exact size of the space to re- ceive it and firmly bound in. The freshly-cut sur- face of the stock and over the scion should be covered with a thin coating of grafting-wax and the whole covered with clay. Clay is not necessary when wax is used, but it no doubt preserves the scion from drying winds, and should be used by those not experienced in the art. Of late years grafting has been extensively prac- tised, in vineries especially, by growers for sale. Since the kinds of Grapes which used to be grown have been superseded by those having large berries and handsome appearance, market growers have either had to root out and re-plant their Vines, or graft with the popular varieties. The latter mode has often been adopted with good results and a saving of time. With the private grower such radi- cal changes are not necessary ; he may want to introduce some new kind into his established vineries, or replace one which does not give satis- faction. A ready means of accomplishing this is afforded by grafting. There are several methods of grafting suitable for the Vine. The one I have suc- ceeded best with is inarching in a green state. The rod or rods intended to be grafted should be cut down to a well-placed spur near the bottom of the trellis when the other Vines are pruned. When growth commences, shoots should be selected and trained to the trellis. When about 3 feet or 4 feet long they will be sufficiently firm for the operation to be performed. Young Vines in pots should be started at the same time as the vinery, and will have made about the same length of growth. All that remains to be done now is to arrange the pot Vine in a con- venient place where it can easily be brought into contact with the green shoot on the stock at a point where the wood of each is of nearly the same size. With a sharp knife cut a piece from each shoot about 3 inches long and not quite half-way through, and fit them evenly and neatly together, bind with soft matting firmly, but not so tightly as to bruise the shoots. A union will soon take place, and as the graft grows, gradually shorten the other shoot to near the union, but do not sever the Vine from the pot until the wood is ripe. During the first year strong canes, which may be fruited the next, will be formed. A variety which does not succeed can, by adopting the above method, soon be replaced by another without disturbing the borderer the other Vines in the house. — Arthur Barker, HincUij). Now that attention is being directed to our orchards, and especially to the many worthless varieties that are allowed to cumber the ground year after year, to no good purpose, it may be well to remind owners that the readiest way to improve them is by re-grafting with some of the really good sorts that are known to succeed in their locality. It 46 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. is too soon to perform the operation of grafting, but it is not a day too soon to cut the grafts and lay them in by the heels in a cool, moist position, so as to have them ready directly the sap begins to move. Above all, it is the best time to get; the stocks headed down to just above where it is intended to graft them. I would strongly advise all those who would wish to make large heads of fruitful wood in the shortest time to adopt the plan that is largely practised in Kent, viz., to cut the branches off at a good distance from the bole of the tree, or where the branches are about the size of a man's wrist. Although it takes a little more time, it well repays the labour, as small branches heal over much quicker than large ones, and if a hundred grafts are put on the cut-back branches of a large tree a good crop of fruit may be obtained in about three years. I have seen whole orchards of ■worthless sorts treated in this way and grafted with Stone's Apple (a great favourite in the Maid- stone district), and the crops produced have been extraordinary. This variety being of large size and fit for market early in the season, is one that suits market growers that do not store any fruit, but clear everything off hand as soon as possible.— J. GeOOM, GpsiJort. good point, because the addition of sugar and other things makes the dish less wholesome. Since writing last week we have had some Newtown Pippins simply pared and cored and put in a stone- ware pipkin, without any water or addition whatever, and stewed by the fire. The result was a delicious dish, the right degree of sweetness, with a pleasant high flavour. Why should not this be the highest test of an Apple that it should be at once a cooking and eating Apple? There are certainly some kinds of Apples which lack sugar that are high in quality, but quite enough kinds could be raised to give us a class of Apples good in all ways. Having two so- called Apples is one of the causes of cramming the garden with more kinds than we want. Not one of the ordinary cooking Apples, no matter how enriched with sugar or other things, is so delicate or good as certain classes of Apples, hitherto com- monly called dessert, cooked in the simplest way. tivated, but it looked very inferior to well-kept Mus- cat of Alexandria. If the White Colman really has merit, it was adversely affected by the sample sent to South Kensington on Tuesday, and Mr. Roberts would do well to get some grower of capacity over here to try it, and have its late-keeping as well as its other assumed qualities fairly tested. Possibly the climate of Ireland fails to do the Grape justice. The berries are of medium size.— A. D. Early maturity of Pears.— I observe that some of your correspondents have recorded the early ripening of Pears. It has been, and is still, the case with our Pears at Belvoir. The quality of the fruits has generally been exceUent. A hot, dry season evidently hastens the ripening process. The summer drought of 1887 was excessive in this dis- trict—only 19-64 inches of rain having fallen— and the development of the fruit was checked; but with rain a fresh growth took place, and I feared deterio- ration of quality in consequence, but such was not the case. The late sorts most sensibly affected by the hot season of 1887 were Josephine de Malines, which ripened early in December; Knight's Monarch was fit for use at the same time, and Easter Beurre, which has anticipated its season of maturity by two months. Knight's Monarch proved with me the best mid-winter Pear. It has the great merit of keeping after it attains perfect ripeness. In my opinion it equals in quality the finest winter Pine- apple, but here it must be grown on a wall. — W. INGBAM, Belroir. Too many Fears.— We regret not being able to agree with Mr. Wildsmith as to the great number of Pears suitable for different districts. We believe this idea is partly to blame for the poor show of fruit one generally sees. It is too often quickly assumed that a kind which will not grow in a given dis- trict is of no value. A great number of Pears certainly do not come to perfection in our climate, and their character elsewhere is valueless to us. When Pears, such as Winter Nelis, DoyennS du Cornice, or Josephine de Malines, are found to do generally well in England, it is a precious certificate for the wise gardener. In planting such a Pear he knows it is one which suits our climate. We say nothing about the soil and the district, but the gar- dener should not be easily beaten. The usual way is, in consequence of the great number grown, to try a few trees of even fine kinds, and it may be a particular fruit is not on the right stock or under the conditions that suit it. It is well known that thousands of Pears have been sent out on the Quince not at all suited for it. To be trying a lot of Pears not known to be good in the country is a costly mistake. Apples, DO division needed.— In reference to our remarks last week, in which we stated that the division of Apples into cooking and dessert is a bad and needless one, the opinion is based on various experiments with Apples of high-class quality which are perfectly good to eat when raw and also delicious when cooked. Therefore, why grow sour and inferior varieties when first-rate Apples, which yield their own sugar, may be easily grown? Our test of a good cooking Apple is one that will cook without any addition; for example, Blenheim at its best is good as an eating and cook- ing Apple. Good Blenheims make a delicious dish without any addition of sugar, &c. That is a NOTE ON A FEW PEARS IN KENT IN 1887. PiTMASTON Duchess ripened perfectly, and was as good a Pear as one could wish to eat. Great care was taken of the fruit, and the care was well repaid. Bedrre Superfin. — I find this a very good Pear when I get a good specimen, but the fruit is often specked with little black spots, and in that case, shrivels and is tasteless. Emile d'Heyst.— I have found this Pear very prolific ; the fruit varies very much witliout any apparent reason. Fruit gathered on the same day, equally ripened on the sunny side of the tree, will vary wonderfully in quality when brought to table, though all may present exactly the same appearance to the eye. When the fruit grows in bunches, the bunches must be thinned, or the individual fruits will be email. Emile d'Heyst is a good Pear, and somewhat resembles Marie Louise. Beurre Bachelier. — Mr. George Bunyard, from whom I bought this Pear, mentions it in his catalogue as a green fruit ripe in November. To-day, Jan. 5, 1888, only two out of forty of these Pears are ripe, and they are bright yellow. In appearance they are very fine; one weighs 10 ozs. , the other a little les«. They are sugary, but resemble an inferior Glou Morceau, which i.s, a.s far as my experience goes, rather a flavour- lefs fruit when grown in England. L'Inconkub (Van Mon.s).— This Pear was left on the tree till it was falling, or ready to fall, but in spite of all care it shrivels and does not ripen properly. I hope that 1 may succeed better with it another year under somewhat dif- ferent treatment after gathering. T picked last year seventy-nine fruits from a pyramid planted in November, 1885. As far as I can judge about it in its present imperfect condition, this Pear does not show promise of very high flavour, though it i.s very sweet. Olivier de Serres. — 1 have 20 fruits off a two-year-old tree. They are (juite plump and healthy, and look like ripening satisfactorily. They had a purple tinge when gathered, but are now turning slightly yellow. H. M. Rogers. BnsfhaU Elms, near TimhruUje Wclh. "White Gros Colman Grape.— The samples of this Grape, which Mr. Hoberts, of Charleville Forest, Tullamore, Ireland, exhibited at South Kensington on Tuesday, the 10th, had very considerably sufirered in the journey, and were niuch rubbed and bruised. Still further, the berries were greenish, and bore an unfinished appearance. Generally, the bunches re- sembled medium-sized ones of Foster's Seedling as usually .seen in the summer, but lacking the hue of colour when that well-known kind is thoroughly ripe. Ttie Wbitc Colpan may bo ipgre easily cul- WATER FOR FRUIT TREES. I PROMISED to give some striking examples of the success of orchards on the lowland prairies of Illinois. In company with another in the summer and autumn of 1884 I made a series of excur- sions about portions of Champaign County, to examine into the state of the Apple orchards. In the neighbourhood and a few miles east of Tolono we found an orchard, mostly of the Snow Apple, planted from twenty-five to thirty years, the con- dition of which was remarkably healthy and vigorous. The fruit was large, fair, and plentiful, the foliage abundant and high coloured, and the growth made during the season exceptionally strong. The land had been prepared by throwing it into ridges, perhaps 18 inches high, and the trees were set on these about 30 feet apart. The site was a very low one, the soil a deep, black, prairie loam, and though the summer and autumn had been by no means wet, water had stood long enough between the ridges to kill the surface grass and vegetation. In fact, if the tree roots did not touch the water level during the growth of the season they were within a few inches of it. I may add that the development had been so strong that the branches interlaced and made a dense shade, to the almost entire exclusion of the sun's rays. Another trip took us to the east side of the county, along the banks of the salt fork of the Vermillion creek of the Wabash. This section was settled about sixty years ago, the first farm being improved along the creek and the orchards planted there, and nearly under the shadows of the primieval gigantic forest growth. These old orchards were almost obliterated and a majority of the trees were decayed . and gone, but those which did remain were in every case situated in the lowest portion of the orchard, or were along a draw, or had a depression which had been a mud hole or a hog-wallow for years under or near it. Along this creek there is a heavy growth of black Walnut, blue Ash, red Elm, Burr Oak, Sugar Maple and similar timbers rarely found except on a deep, moist soil, with an undergrowth of Papaw and Red Bud, shrubs equally exigent of high living. That the Apple, like these varieties of timber trees, should grow largest and bear best on a deep, rich soil, absolutely saturated with water for six months in the year and sufficiently moist for all purposes the other six, seems to be logical and reasonable. Outside of the Illinois prairie country I have found in the Apple the same love for a copious water supply. In Colorado, at Fort Collins, where all fruit is grown by irrigation,! saw the Apple vigorous and fruitful, and at AVheat Ridge, near Denver, very remarkably so. There, in two or three orchards, I saw the Ben Davis and Duchess trees of ten or twelve years of age in a state of fruitfulness, health, and vigour ; fruit large, fair, and highly coloured ; foliage green and strong ; growth for the year re- markable, superior to anything I had ever before come in contact with. Between the trees were ditches along which water was allowed to run freely whenever the ground was dry. But what need to multiply examples? The truth-seeker in this matter has but to observe closely to find sufficient proof to satisfy himself. Not long since Mr. Rodney Welch, the agri- cultural editor of the Chicago Times, accepted the fact that the Apple required for its best develop- ment low and moist land, and recommended that the orchard of the future be planted on the banks and borders of creeks and rivers. And lately Dr. Dubois, the editor of the Fruit O'roircr, of Cobden, in the fruit region, reported that few if any trees had survived the trying climatic ordeal of the last few Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 47 years, except they were growing on land perma- nently moist. On page 358 ot the October issue of the American Garden, Mr. Massey tells us that the famous Newtown Pippins of Albemarle County, \&., are grown in mountain hollows, where the soil is permanently moist, and where in the summer mornings the trees are bathed in dews and fogs for hours after there is a clear sky above and below. A similar fact was stated to the writer by Mr. Samuels, of Clinton, a nurseryman and fruit grower of large experience and wide reputation, who said the best and most fruitful Apple trees and orchards he was acquainted with were to be found in the ravines and draws made by the breaking of the watercourses through the bluffs into the bottom of the Mississippi River below in South-western Kentucky. — B. F. J., in American. Garden. BLENHEIM ORANGE APPLE. Peobably few persons living know more about the origin and history of this famous Apple than does Mr. Robert Fenn, of Sulhampstead. Having resided at the Woodstock Rectory for, I think, some twenty-five years, he had the fullest opportunity of learning all about Kempster, the reputed raiser of Blenheim Orange. More than once, when visiting Woodstock, I was shown the house and garden in which Kempster resided, and remember that it adjoined the ducal park, which, so far, has given the Apple its name. The original tree had then disappeared, bat there were many of its direct progeny about Woodstock. It is worthy of note that the Apple was originally named Woodstock Pippin, and later had added the designation of Blenheim Pippin and Blenheim Orange, the latter being, perhaps, the most commonly used. It is not a correct designation, because, whilst the Apple is round and yellow, it is also usually richly coloured. No Apple so well merits the appellation of Orange asthe Golden Xoble.theyellowest and handsomest of all pure, self-coloured kinds. Jlr. Jefferies indulges in the hypothesis that Kempsters and possibly some others of the ancient Woodstock Pippin trees were raised from pips taken from fruit from some even more ancient tree. That would be but to throw back the assumed origin of the Apple indelinitely, and, on the whole, seems hardly sound. I very much doubt whether any raisers of Apples, even from non-fertilised flowers, have ever found the parent form of tree and fruits to be so truthfully reproduced as is thus indicated. On the whole, experience points quite the other way, especially when we know the remarkable tendency on the part of seedling Apples raised even from the finest kinds to revert to inferior forms. I prefer to think, whether old Kempster was the original raiser of the Blenheim Apple or not, and if he was, he merits some worthy memorial, " that all existing trees of the true form have sprung from the original tree through grafting and budding." That there are slight divergencies in the character of the fruits on some trees, I admit; as, for instance, the Beauty of Hants form, which, I believe, origi- nated with Mr. Rogers, at the Red Lodge Nur- sery, at Southampton. I noted a large tree of it when in full fruit in the gardens of Glen Eyre, Mrs. Crabbe's beautiful place at Southampton, and compared the fruits with those growing on I3len- heim trees close by, the divergence being most marked, as the fruits of Beauty of Hants were much more conical, larger, and richer coloured. Still, I do not think the divergence has been so marked in the fruits since the kind has been put into com- merce, although here a tree of it invariably shows the conical form more prominently than does the old Blenheim Pippin close by. Stocks materially affect the character of fruits and also trees, as here, for instance, I have old trees of the same kind of Apple worked at the same time, some being double the size of others and producing the finest fruits. On the whole, I regard the Blenheim Orange as the most cosmopolitan Apple we have, as it seems to do well everywhere, and no one living will ever see it excelled as the most popular Apple of the country. A. D. Pears. — The information you are eliciting from various correspondents in regard to the areasdf profit- able cultivation of certain kinds of Pears, notably Winter Nelis, and your endeavours to obtain infor- mation concerning the merits of the various kinds of that fruit grown in different situations, with the ulti- mate view of restricting collections, is calculated to be of great use to fruit growers, both amateur and professional. There are very few gardeners who have escaped the necessity of rooting out unprofit- able fruit trees, and one hesitates to destroy a well- trained tree, even when successive seasons have proved its inferiority. Fully persuaded that the various circumstances of latitude, elevation, rain- fall, and soil influence the quality of the majority of our Pears, I have often warned the inexperienced of the difficulty of selection, and 1 have been un- able to refer to any comprehensive treatise on the subject. By taking one Pear at a time, as you have done Winter Nelis, you will be able to define its limits of successful cultivation. First, let me answer your question concerning Winter Nelis. Belvoir is in the north midland district, the fruit garden i'Al feet above sea-level and sheltered ; the subsoil is lias clay, but the borders are made. The trees are trained to both east and west walls, and the fruit is invariably of good quality, sugary, juicy, and melting, but rather small. The trees wear out sooner than others, and are liable to the attacks of American blight. — W. Ingeam, Belroir. FRUITS UNDER GLASS. Pikes. Although the British fruit-grower is closely run by Continental and colonial exporters to our markets, he still holds the monopoly in early Queen Pines. Later in the season, the Smooth Cayenne, from the Azores, is seen in every fruiterer's window, but as yet the delicious Queen, not only in the spring but throughout the summer, has been con- spicuous by its absence. It is, no doubt, easy enough to account for this, but so long as foreign growers find it does not pay, simply because it is too tender for their mode of culture, all the English gardener who still grows Pines, has to consider is the production of a goodly number of fair-sized fruit for filling up the gap throughout the early London season. In my last paper 1 advised the selection of a few of the most promising plants, viz., those with thick stems and the greatest num- ber of sharp-pointed centre leaves, as being the most likely to start into fruit without making a growth, for placing in sharp bottom-heat in a snug light compartment early in January. If this has been done, and the plants have been firmly packed with turf to keep them steady and properly watered, the minimum temperature in fairly good weather should now range about 70°, whilst that by day may run up to 80° from fire-heat, and a few degrees higher after the house is closed, with gleams of sunshine. The plants having been kept dry for some months, the application of water to the roots should be regular, until every particle of soil is properly moistened, but not saturated, as too much of this element at this early season is apt to injure the inactive roots when the fruit thrown up by the first batch will be deformed and useless. If plunged in tan or leaves, especially the latter, the roots will derive a great deal of moisture therefrom, and it is just possible the constant application of tepid water over the surface of the bed will cause the temperature to rise to a figure that may be con- sidered dangerous to the crock roots. A bottom- heat of iti;i° about the pots, and a little more beneath them, will do no harm, but should it rise above these figures it will be well to shake the plants a little in the centre rows, and to make the pots firm again when the violent heat is subsiding. By this means the strong heat and moisture confined in the bed will be set at liberty, and, whilst economising dry fire-heat, will benefit the foliage when syringing or dewing over even may be considered dangerous. The syringe, as a matter of course, may be plied freely to the walls, avoiding the pipes when highly heated,and, provided atmospheric moisture suitable to the growth of winter Cucumbers is produced, the less these newly-started plants are syringed over- head the better. Although air in small quantities only can be admitted, the supply should be evenly distributed, if only a chink on each ventilator, always with a rising glass when the temperature approaches 80° on fine days and 76° when otherwise. Close for the day not later than 2 p.m., damp the floors and walls, and again give a breath of fresh front air on mild evenings. General stoclt. — If the proper forethought has been exercised, a good body of well-worked tan or leaves will now be ready for renovating the bed for the main stock of fruiters. When in proper condi- tion, a thorough cleansing of the house and plung- ing-pit should always precede their introduction, and, this done, the bed should be made very firm, as solidity is a great check to violent fermentation. As a few of the plants selected for the early start will persist in making a growth, and others in the main batch will throw up at once, it may be advis- able by-and-by to exchange some, but, the stock being abundant, this pit for the present should be filled with the most promising early starters from the succession house. Having removed a leaf or two from the base of each plant and packed them firmly with lumps of warm turf, place them in shallow basins, and defer filling tight until the balls are properly moistened and the heat in the bed shows signs of declining. The plants left over, naturally the weakest, should be encouraged to make a growth before they start, and the better to secure this they should be replunged and carefully supplied with water and atmospheric moisture. Successions may still be kept quiet in a tempera- ture ranging from 00° at night to 70° by day, and 75° when fine and mild, or, the house being light and well appointed, they may soon be encouraged to make fresh root preparatory to potting. Nothing, however, is gained by undue haste ; therefore, unless there is likely to be a break in the supply of Cayennes and Rothschilds, the two favourite sum- mer and autumn varieties, it will be well to move cautiously until more of the wintry weather still due is left behind us. This, however, will not justify delay in getting a good supply of crocks, pots, soil, and correctives, the first clean and dry, the second warm and mixed, ready for use when the proper time arrives. Every day will now bring its own work, and when it is known that the compost should lie for a little time in a warm house or potting shed before it is used, a march in this direction is a double advantage. Suckers. — Pits containing these need not exceed 50° to 55° at night and a few degrees higher by day for the present. Very little water will be needed, but it will be well to examine the beds, especially where the pots are plunged close upon the bottom- heat pipes, and if found very dry to give the leaves or tan an occasional supply of tepid water. To prevent its rapid absorption by the dry atmosphere of the pit, the pots may be completely covered with half-spent material until the time arrives for the general potting. Vines. Disbudding, tying down, and stopping in the early house will now claim daily attention, as every hour's delay in the performance of this work, espe- cially of the pinching of the points of the shoots, deprives the Vines of a certain quantity of sap, which should go towards the development of the bunches. Vines on the single or double-rod system should be pinched at the second or third leaf be- yond the bunch, and again when the first set of laterals have made sufficient growth to cover every part of the trellis with foliage when tied down and the latter is fully developed. No one approves of crowding the shoots or foliage, as every leaf must have full exposure to the sun and air, and the more of such leaves the finer and better will the Grapes ripen. Remove all superfluous bunches from Ham- burghs and other free-setting varieties as soon as the best and most regularly placed clusters can be decided upon for the crop. Raise the temperature to about 00° on mild nights and 70° by day from fire-heat alone, but never drawahard-and-last line, as it is better to drop to 58° when the weather is unfavourable and redeem the loss by early dossing about 1 p m. on sunny afternoons. Counteract the drying influence of fire-heat by damping all bare 48 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. stems, also the walls and floors, avoiding the pipes when heated, and turn over a portion o£ the fer- menting mateiial every day. The outside borders, hitherto well protected by Fern or dry leaves, may now receive an additional supply of the latter in a fermenting state, and when the two have been turned and thoroughly mixed, the covers or tar- paulin should be replaced to keep out snow and wet. Many Grape growers have discontinued the use of fermenting coverings for their earliest Vine borders, but when protected from the weather, a good body of fresh Oak leaves produces a genial surface warmth which draws the roots upwards, and by the time the Grapes reach the stoning stage the top-dressing becomes one mass of hungry feeders. So far good, they say, but what about its removal and the check that follows ? Well, leave it alone until the Grapes are ripe and cut, then take it off piecemeal, leaving a few inches to serve as a mulch, and allow this to remain until the time arrives for top-dressing in August. Watering. — As more well-drained internal bor- ders sxifEer from the want than an over-abundance of this element, liberal supplies— always in a tepid state — should be given after the Vines have started, and again before they come into flower, but not, if it can be avoided, during the time the Grapes are setting. Old Vines will take diluted liquid from the outset, and the size and boldness of the bunches will be improved by its use in every way from the roots to the evaporating pans and floors. Young canes, on the other hand, are not so much in need of early stimulants, and, provided they are liberally supplied with pure water, produce the most com- pact " shows," with many points in favour of a per- fect set of fruit. This sometimes difficult stage safely passed, mild stimulants— including manure water, soot, and guano water alternately, and always in a clarified state— may be freely used up to the colouring stage. Ventilation. — This at this early season is a very difficult matter and requires incessant attention, but fresh air, more or less, must be admitted every day, and night too for that matter, where the heat- ing power is strong enough to support it. The greatest danger we have to encounter is the admis- sion of cold currents, which lower the temperature and chill the tender foliage, but, following the good and only safe method of slightly opening each ventilator, with a rising glass when the mercury touches 70°, and resting upon this until a higher figure is reached, a change of air can be secured every day unless the weather is extremely wintry. On bright forenoons the temperature may range from 75" to 80°, closing about 1 p.m. being regu- lated by the slightest tendency to a downward movement, when the house should be properly damped and a little more fire-heat turned on to prevent a too rapid decline before nightfall. As days increase in length and the sun gains power, the foliage will stand more air, always, be it understood, to prevent the house from getting too hot, never to lower the temperature, and the chink from banking time through the night should be on the front venti- lators. Succession liouses. — All late Vines, including the autumn Muscats, should now be pruned, cleansed, and the houses put in thorough order for starting. If only recently relieved of their fruit, a series of steady waterings should follow up pruning, but not until every knife-cut has been dressed with styptic, or painter's knotting to preclude the possibility of bleeding. The borders, too, must be cleared of all loose surface soil and old mulching quite down to the solid compost, which should be fall of brown, healthy roots ready to seize upon the new supply. The best top-dressing for established borders is good turfy loam, lime rubble, and bone dust, a compost which may be built upon, layer over layer, for years, as there is nothing in it to become sour and inert. Rotten manure, as a matter of course, is an invaluable agent, especially in old houses, but the compost gives all the roots require at the outset, and the mulch, fresh and good, later on helps the Vines when the foliage begins to draw upon them. Poi Vines must now be encouraged with frequent additions to the top-dressing, and liberal libations of warm diluted liquid whenever water is needed. The roots will now do without bottom heat, but time in this department being an object, steady warmth not only hastens their progress, but the material from which it is obtained being well stored with the elements of vegetable life, whilst hastening growth, feeds the roots and foliage and economises fuel. If the rods are trained upon an ordinary trellis, continue tying out the leading laterals until the whole surface is covered with foliage, but avoid crowding, as the leaves must have light and liberty to admit a free circulation of air. Gradually raise the temperature to 65° at night and 75° to 80° on bright days by the time the Grapes come into flower, and whilst damping all available spaces, keep up a constant circulation of air to prevent the moisture from condensing or settling upon the bunches. Fertilise all varieties with Hamburgh pollen, thin out the berries as soon as a good set can be ascertained, and carefully avoid heavy cropping. Jlne eyes may now be put into single pots or small squares of turf, as recently advised, but they need not be plunged in bottom-heat before the first week in February — that is, unless they are to be grown into fruiting canes by the end of the season, when a fortnight earlier may be an advantage. The general stock for planting out or cutting back have plenty of time before them, and as days will now be increasing in length, the best results will follow if they are rested in a cool pit through the present month, and started in February. Weak plants of last year's propagation that have been cut down to a single bud with the view to growing them into strong fruiters may now be gradually excited upon a bed of fermenting leaves in an intermediate pit. Once watered to moisten the small balls through, the syringe will keep them quite wet enough until the buds are fairly on the move. As soon as this return to life takes place and the young shoots have made 2 inches of growth, shake them out, trim the straggling and faulty roots, and repot in pots 6 inches in diameter. As these small plants will require another shift into 10-inch, or perhaps 12-inch, pots, the compost which is to form the nucleus of the future ball should be com- posed of sweet, rich, turfy loam, a little old hair plaster, and bone-dust. Let the pots and crocks be clean, the compost warm, pot moderately firm, and plunge at once into a bottom-heat of 70°. Water once to settle the soil, then sparingly until new roots are well on the move, but dew the plants over with a fine syringe twice a day, and keep the pit sweet and moist at a temperature ranging from BO" to 70°. Lifting late Vines. — The external roots of late Vines may be lifted and relaid in fresh compost as soon as the Grapes are ripe, say early in October, and, provided the inside borders are full of roots, the fruit will not suffer through November and December ; but unless the house is very lofty and the bunches well out of the way, inside renovation must necessarily stand over until the crop is cleared about the end of December. The sap being down and the Vines in want of rest, they should be pruned, cleansed, and slung loosely to the wires, but on no account should the border be disturbed until the sap is again in motion. Meantime the old border intended for removal being dry, it should be gradually moistened for the twofold purpose of filling up and exciting the buds and favouring fork- ing out without injuring the small fibres. A fort- night or three weeks before lifting is commenced mix up the new compost, using fresh turf with the Grass upon it as an aid to fermentation, add the usual correctives, not forgetting a good percentage of crushed bones, old lime rubble, and lively embers from an active fire in the refuse yard. Throw the whole mass into a sharp conical heap or ridge, and cover it up with a thick layer of hot stable litter. Unless the weather is very severe and the compost unusually obdurate, a fortnight will suflice for its becoming warm, when, the Vines being on the move, they may be renovated without risk or injury. As it will not be necessary to fill up the whole of the area allotted to the rootis, the space left for future additions of compost may be filled with sound Oak leaves in a state of strong fermentation. The warmth from this mass penetrating the retaining wall of turf and drawing into the drainage will keep up the temperature of the compost, when the oldest and blackest of roots that may have been useless, if not injaricus for years, will quickly throw out young fibres. As I may not touch upon this subject again, it may be well to remark that all decaying leaves, manure, and the like used for producing bottom- heat should be removed when the Grapes are cut the following winter. W. C. THE BANANA TRADE OF DEMERARA. In a recent report the United States Consul at Demerara urges his countrymen to establish a steamer line and fruit - growing company in British Guiana, of which he says " the profits must, in view of the magnitude of the trade, be necessarily large." As the opportunity _ is equally favourable for British merchants and in- vestors, it may be well to summarise the consul's statements on the subject. The soil of the colony along the coasts is extremely rich ; Cocoa-nuts grow near the shore, and large quantities of Bananas may be grown within three or four miles from the sea. The long yellow Bananas are in every way superior to those grown in the West Indian Islands, and equal to those of Port Limon and Aspinwall, which are so deservedly popular in the American markets. The first cost of planting an acre with Bananas is from £10 to £12, the production being from 600 to 800 bunches a year. The plants mature in nine months, and the fruit can be gathered every week in the year after it is well started. In Guiana all carriage is by water ; hence Bananas can be delivered at the steamer in better condition than in any other part of the West Indies, where they are carried by springless carts, on negroes' heads, &c. Hurricanes which decimate the plantations elsewhere do not prevail in Guiana. Demerara is 2200 miles from New York; the course crosses the Gulf Stream, which is said by shippers " to cook the fruit " in a much shorter time than that from any other West Indian port; Bermuda and Barbadoes might be made ports of call to the greatly-increased profit of the voyage. Vessels drawing 18 feet 6 inches can enter the Demerara river at high water. In 1885 Bananas to the value of £400,000 were imported into the United States, mainly at New York, New Orleans, Boston, and Baltimore. The cargoes realised from 4s. to 12s. per bunch for the best quality, and it is, Mr. Bunker thinks, highly probable that contracts could be made in Guiana for their delivery alongside at lOd. to Is. per bunch. A vessel of 1000 tons dead weight could carry a cargo of 20,000 bunches; the loss on the voy- age rarely exceed s 1 5 per cent., and if the balance were sold at the low price of 4s. per bunch the estimated profit on the trip would not be less than £1400 after payment of all charges. This does not include profit from general freight, passengers, or mails. Cocoa might be cultivated at the same time as the Banana, the latter giving the best shade for the young Cocoa plants. Banana plants yield an excel- lent fibre, and the Papaw, Lime, Orange, Mango, Guava, and Pine-apple might be added to the cul- tivation. Guiana being a Sugar-producing colony, a trade in canned fruits might be developed. The climate, the consul thinks, is much maligned ; Guiana is not, as is commonly supposed, a hot-bed of fever ; there is little variation in the tempera- ture, the thermometer giving an almost uniform reading of 84° Fahr. Sea breezes prevail for the greater part of the year ; cases of yellow fever are comparatively rare, and may be generally traced to dissipation or indiscretion. Under these circum- stances he suggests that American capitalists should establish a fruit-growing company in British Guiana, with a line of steamers running between Demerara and New York. — T/ie Times. Pear Winter Nelis.— I thoroughly agree with nearly all your correspondents as regards the merits of Winter Nelis. My first lot was gathered on October 16, began to ripen December 1, and lasted tUl January 11. It is certainly one of our best late Pears. — W. Fbancis, Mchmorvd, Surrey. Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 49 MADRESFIELD COURT, MALVERN. This beautiful baronial residence, a view of which is given, is picturesquely situated in its own finely-timbered grounds at the foot, one might say, of the Malvern Hills. It is the seat of Earl Beauchamp (lord-lieutenant of the county), and is well known to the readers of gardening literature by reason of the excellent Grape of that name, which was raised here by the late Mr. William Cox, who had the management of the extensive gardens and grounds at Madresfield Court for about forty years, and who is succeeded by Mr. William Crump. The apj^roaoh on one side (from Malvern Link) is by an avenue of stately Ehns and Oaks. The Covirt is a commodious and picturesque building. It is situated in the midst of charming woodland scenery, and, as viewed from the Malvern Hills, it forms the central figure of a very beautiful landscape. been made within the last three or four years, is an additional feature in these charming grounds. The pleasure grounds, which, in addition to the avenues indicated, include three others — the Oak, Golden Yew, and Portugal Laurel (the latter on stems 5 feet to 6 feet long), and grand Yew hedges, are very extensive, and have been laid out with great taste and skill, and judi- ciously planted with an assortment of choice trees and shrubs. Noticeable among the trees are Picea grandis, P. cephalonica, P. Pinsapo, Pinus excelsa, P. Strobus, P. Lambertiana, P. macro- j carpa, Abies Douglasi, Wellingtonia, Arauoaria, «;!';er, though he givesa long chapter to the various sortsof Roses then in vogue— includingamongst them Guelder Koses! Perhaps the Rose, by the irregular growth of its shoots, did not lend itself to cHpping with the shears, and thus was not included amongst the favourites of his luxurioiis Majesty. From the first the natural stems of the Dog Kose seem to have been used in France and in England. In Holland, where a sandy soil does not favour the vigorous growth of the wild plant, various kinds of the multiflora or evergreen kinds have been used for stems, but nothing beats good selected Briers from the hedgerows for making fine standard Roses. From the year 1851 to 1870, standard Roses seem to have been most in favour, the number grown being very large, we and other nurserjmen plantirg each 100,000 to 150,000 a year, and in every garden a Rose garden of standard Roses— standard Koses studding the edges of the lawns— standard Roses in place and out of place— was one of the leading features. Gradually as the Manetti and dwarf seedling Brier stocks grew into use, and exhibiting became the order of the day, they declined in favour, and beds of dwarf Roses, more in harmony with the fashion of dwarf summer bedding which then held sway, were used. Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 51 What helped partly to bring standard Roses into disfavour was the habit of working all kinds, whether vigorous or not, as standards; and the result was seen in most gardens, viz., huge stems with small, dwindling heads, which rather disfigured than ornamented a garden. When they were first introduced the kinds most popular were the fine vigorous Hybrid Chinas, such as Blairi No. 2, Charles Lawson, Paul Verdier, Miss Lavier, Madame Plantier and other large-growing profuse-flowering kinds, many with a good fine evergreen habit ; and standards of these sorts, each year becoming larger, were really good ornaments to the garden, and when in bloom, beautiful objects. As they are again rising in favour, growers must again revert to a more careful selection of the kinds to be worked in this way. Standard Roses can in nowise be dispensed with. In large gardens, with their big heads and good straight stems, they are of use in breaking the mo- notony of Grass surfaces, of herbaceous or mixed borders, in Rose borders at the edges of lawns, or by the side of long gravel walks. In small suburban gardens, where only a few can be grown, and where walls 5 feet or 6 feet high encircle the narrow limits, standard Roses lift up the Rose to the light and air, and allow the cultivation of Roses where dwarfs would be stifled by the want of circulation. I can recall many small suburban gardens where, under the unremitting personal care of enthusiastic amateurs, wonderful results in the way of fine fiowers are produced from small numbers of well- grown standard Roses. I have mentioned a few of the kinds which first won favour for the standard Roses, but they were summer once-blooming Roses. Perpetuals are now many of them vigorous enough to make fine heads. Which are the best? What are the desiderata? First, fine evergreen foliage, good vigour, combined with fairly even growth, great freedom, and conti- nuous habit of flowering, hardiness, so that they do not get injured in any but exceptionally hard winters. It is singular how few kinds fulfil all these condi- tions. Amongst the reds or crimsons Lacharme's Charles Lefebvre and its ofl'spring. Glory of Cheshunt, Annie Wood, Dr. Andry, Dupuy Jamain, Madame Victor Verdier, Marechal Vaiilant, Marie Rady, Senateur Vaisse, Ulrich Brunner, and the English red Roses, Beauty of Waltham, Duke of Edinburgh, John Stuart Mill, George Baker, and Brightness of Cheshunt. The spring-wooded Eclair, Duke of Connaught, Camille Bernardin, General Jacque- minot, and Maurice Bernardin do fairly well. Very dark or maroon- crimsons do not seem to make fine plants. At most three or four sorts make fairly good heads — Prince Camille, Reynolds Hole, Abel Carrifere, Sultan of Zanzibar, and Jean Liabaud. Eose and pink colours are more numerous. The old, vigorous Jules Margottin and its olfspring, Lacharme's Alphonse Soupert, and Clara Coohet, Abel Grand, Centifolia Rosea, Edouard Morren, Francois Levet (almost a Hybrid China), John Hopper, Madame Clemence "Joigneaux, Madame Gabriel Luizet (only it mildews), Madame Prosper Laugier, Magna Charta, Marquise de Castellane, Paul Xeron may "be named. La France is perhaps the type of what a standard Rose should be in the way of a flowering kind. Of the white or lightest shade of pinks. Captain Christy grows into a fine free standanl in time. Boule de Neige, Madame Lacharme, and Violette Bouyer are the finest whites. Duohesse de Vallom- brosa and Princess Louise A^ictoria are perhaps the two best pinks. Of Hybrid Perpetual sorts to be specially avoided as standards are such growers as Louise Van Hontte, Horace Vernet, Marie Coinet. Beautiful kinds, such as Marie Baumann, Marie Finger, Comtesse d'Oxford, are far more lasting and desirable as dwarfs, and make but poor, short-lived standards. In the other classes which really are worth grow- ing in this form. Souvenir de la Malmaison (a splendid dwarf when stubbed in yearly like a Willow) makes but a poor standard ; its seedling, Madame Isaac Perriere fulfils all the conditions. Of Mosses, Bath White, Lanei, Blanche Moreau, Madame Edward Ory, and Salet make fine heads. Of Noisettes, Aimge Vibert and Celine Forestier are the two best. Marechal Niel, Ophirie, Reve d'Or, and William Allen Richardson, as weeping kinds are graceful, and, with care, succeed. China— Mrs. Bosanquet is the perfection of a standard Rose; vigorous, evergreen, and always in flower. Lastly, we come to the fairly hardy Teas, and in the Dijon section we lind some of our best standard Roses, fulfilling all the conditions needed for stan- dards in selecting sorts. Bouquet d'Or is, I think, the best, even better than Gloire de Dijon, whilst Madame Berard, with its large spreading habit, is a fine object when at its prime. Belle Lyonnaise is a little tender, and hardly free enough. Of Tea-scented proper, which make good enough standards to be worth, except to the exhibitor, the trouble of protecting tall-stemmed Roses, there are very few and they complete the list. Anna OUivier, alba rosea, Ilom^re, Innocente Pirola, Francisca Kruger, Mesdames Lambard, Falcot, Margottin, and De Watteville, Marie Van Houtte, Perle des Jar- dins, Etoile de Lyon, Safrano, Souvenir d'un Ami, and I am tempted to include Souvenir d'Elise. Although not a very long list (and I would guard myself from criticism and misapprehension by stating that I do not say many other kinds will not make fair standards), but that anyone planting standards for garden decoration should select sorts such as I have named, and will not do wrong in having all I have, as the result of careful thought, given the names of. Finally, one word as to culture. Standard Roses are mostly planted as permanent objects in the garden, and so are worth especial care. No pains are too great to prepare the spot for each plant — considering it may stand there for years. If in a bed, carefully trench your ground and add plenty of manure before planting— if as a single plant on a lawn, take the same pains with the site as if you were planting a Conifer— and your Rose will give good reward for all your trouble. — Geoegb Paul, in " Rosarian's Year-JBook." SHORT NOTES.— ROSES. Eose Etoile de Lyon, referred to on page 28, is not one that growers generally find any difficulty in flowering well on Brier stocks under glass, where it proves one of the most beautiful and perfect of yellow Roses, but it is a fact that not only does this variety, hut a good many other vigorous Tea-scented Roses do exceedingly well on Rnsa polyantha stocks out of doors in this country as in France. Rose Mabel Morrison.— In the current num- ber of the .Journal des Hoses M. Fanquet describes a plant of Mabel Morrison, which produced during the past summer simultaneously white flowers charac- teristic of the variety, pink flowers like Baroness Rothschild, and flowers half white and half pink. Of course, it is a common thing to find a sport reverting to its original type, and Mabel Morrison, White Baroness, and Merveille de Lyon have all been known to produce flowers of Baroness Rothschild, but the production of parti-coloured flowers is certainly not common among Roses. China Roses for autumn blooming'. — " R. D." does well to draw attention to the China Roses for making a striking group where there is a large space to be filled. A great mass of the com- mon pink China is most efl'ective, and is continuously in flower, becoming especially conspicuous in autumn by its profusion when many other Roses are flowerless. It is to be feared, however, that Ducher cannot be admitted as a decorative variety. It is true that its flowers are " pure white, of large size, and double " — when they can be got to expand ; but they are produced so sparingly on such long stems, and so rarely open fair, even in flne weather, that the plant is quite worthless. The desirability of a good white China induced the trial of Ducher upon all sorts of stocks and in various situations, but always with the same results, until it was thrown away. A white China as free and perpetual as the common pink and Cramoisie Superieure is still among the desiderata of the rosarian, but in the meantime the two last-named are well worth planting in bold masses wherever Roses are wanted and places are required to look bright in autumn. — T. W. G. Chrysanthemums. E. MOLYNEDX. HINTS FOR THE COMING SEASON. The past Chrj'santhenium season was perhaps one of the most trying ever experienced. No doubt, many failures with certain varieties can be chronicled by growers. I think tliat a failure, more especially in horticulture, stimu- lates us to obtain better results in the future. Bad seasons are therefore useful, as they teach us what to avoid. It is not possible to experience a more unfavourable season for the growth and successful cultivation of the Chrysanthemum tlian that of 1887 was. In the first place, we had during several months a very dull sunless period, which prevented a free solid growth of the plants at the commencement. Chrj'santhemums in all stages of growth^ro matter by what nietliod they are grown or for what purpose they are required — are sun- loving plants ; therefore, a scarcity of that all-invigorating medium often causes mucli mis- chief. Possibly the absence of sun at this period had something to do with the extreme height which some plants attained, particu- larly where the convenience was not of the best. After that came, towards the end of April, cold cutting winds, and early in May again were the plants similarly affected directly after they were placed in their flowering pots and stood outdoors. Several collections that I know were so much battered about with wind at this stage, tliat the leaves were torn into shreds. This, of course, checked the plants in a wonderful degree. Where the position was high and in any way exposed to the east the damage was far worse. These LU effects were followed by an extra- ordinarily dry summer ; in some localities no rain fell for twelve weeks. Where this occurred in hilly positions the air wa.s excessively dry, as there were no night dews, as in the case of valle.ys and low-lying districts. Cultivators residing in the latter positions had an immense advantage over their neighbours on the hills, as after a hot dry day, a cool night, accompanied with dew, is immensely refreshing to the Chry- santhemum. Although this plant loves sun, it also likes moisture ; therefore the advan- tages I have referred to will be at once seen. To some cultivators another drawback occurred to their jilants. During the early part of September a severe frost occurred, which was sufticient to cripple many of the most forward flower-buds by turning tlie centres black, owing to the calyx splitting just about that period, thus exposing to the frost the tender petals in an embryo state ; flower-buds so aftected showed the results later on by bad centres. November being the wettest month of the year, it was not favourable in most localities to the development of blooms of the finest quality, which on all hands were admitted to be ex- ceptionally late ; the incurved section always suflers the most from the efl'ects named. Except under the most favourable conditions, the depth of bloom in this family is sure to be wanting, and there will be a roughness of the petals. Some persons are in a much worse jiosition than others regarding the water they use, where the supply of rain water is limited, and recourse has to be had to that from wells, or that sup- 52 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. plied by water companies, with no means at hand for storage in the sun's rays to warm the water preparatory to using it. The water from wells is often largely impregnated witli lime, and this applied direct to the roots and foliage of Chrysanthemums, without any means being taken to soften or warm it, must injure such plants. Having pointed out the reasons which have not been favourable to high-class de- velopment of flowers, it behoves all those who are at all aiiected by the causes here named to devise plans for preventing a recurrence of these effects in the coming season ; much may be done by a timely outlook when knowing what to avoid and aim at. The next thoughts of the cultivator are how to avoid the ill-effects of such a season as the past, and to ensure a greater measure of success in the future. I will point out a few of the remedies I would suggest for future guidance. The most important is that of giving more strict attention to minor details in the cultivation. Commencing with the first point, that of overcrowding the plants, the remedy for this is to limit the list to a reasonable length. It is far better to grow a smaller collection really well than attempt a large one merely for the sake of numbers and variety. It is well to re- member that the pint measure will not hold a quart. The next consideration is how to prevent damage to the plants by cold east winds at the time when they are first placed out of doors in an open situation. A little forethought will prevent a recurrence of damage to the jjlants in this way. Shelter on the east side by the use of sheep hurdles, mats, or boards ; in fact, anything that will break the winds will suffice. It is not to be expected that another summer like the past will happen this year, but in all seasons there is a spell of very hot weather, and extra attention is required to keep the plants in good condition as to water at the roots. In some hot, dry situations some plants are checked by reason of the roots on the sunny side of the pots being burnt. This more often takes place when the soil in the pots is allowed to become dry. Some persons may say, why not plunge the pots dur- ing the summer season ? I do not believe in the practice, for the reason that in showery weather it is not jiossible to ascertain correctly if the plants really need water at the roots or not. Often under such conditions the plants are suffering from drought when the cultivator thinks the rain has been sufficient to moisten the soil through. I prefer to apply shade to the pots on the sunny side, either by means of boards on edge placed alongside the pots, or by a covering of straw. Fern, or even ashes. Where necessity compels the use of water other than that from rain-water tanks, as much of it should be placed in casks or tanks as space will allow, standing the tubs, &c., in the full sun, so that the water may become warmed before using. Washing soda, used at the rate of quarter of a pound to 36 gallons of water, previously dissolving the soda in hot water, softens it if allowed to stand for a time afterwards, and also acts as a stimulant to the plants. Where the water is from chalk wells, the soda precipitates the chalk, and keeps it at the bottom of the tank or tub ; this sediment should not be used for the plants, biit Bh(juld be thrown away, as it contains a very large percentage of lime, which is not required for the plants, as soil wliich is taken from land overlying chalk is supplied witli sufficient lime, as is the case where chalk wells abound. Some towns, I believe, are wholly supplied with water from wells of this cla's. Amateurs and other cultivators residing near such towns are com- pelled to use such water. As far as my ex- perience leads me to judge, water of this class is about the worst to use for Chrysanthemums. If some of our scientific friends would give us their experience of water of this kind and the means of rendering it in the best condition for plant life in the shortest possible time, I am sure many besides myself would feel grateful for such information. Of course, there are circumstances over which we have no control, such as absence of sun in the early months of the year, excess of it during the summer,and a wetautumn,alltendingtomako the flowering late and the blooms not so good in quality as when the seasons are more favourable. What I wish to impress- upon the beginner is to look ahead with a view to obviate as far as pos- sible any known difficulties standing in the way of success. SWEET-SCENTED CHRYSANTHEMUMS. HAVE many times written in favour of sweet- scented Chrysanthemums, believing they would form a very interesting class both at home and at the exhibitions. Now that some of the single varieties possess a delicate pleasing perfume (which to my mind is more refreshing than even that emitted from Progne), we shall soon have more of them. The Hull Society set a capital example towards the encouragement of sweet-scented Chry santhemums by offering prizes at their late exhibi tion for this class. Nothing that I am acquainted with brings any section into prominence so quickly as the offering of prizes. Prizes offered in this way benefit two classes of people, viz , the raiser of new varieties and the grower. These two reasons generally go hand in hand, and where such elements predominate, something is sure to quickly arise. It is questionable if the Hull Society last year made the best regulations for the encouragement of this sec- tion when framing the class ; it reads thus : " Twelve blooms sweet-scented Chrysanthemums ; " to this they add the following : " In judging this class the scent of the blooms will be the chief point considered." I consider both the wording of the class and that of the added clause wrong, that is, if we must consider that pure fragrance of the flowers is the object the society wish to encourage. Why I think the wording of the class is wrong is that by asking for twelve blooms, such a variety as Mrs. Langtry, which is single, is too heavily handicapped to compete with the same number of blooms of Dr. Sharpe, for instance, as it is impossible to find as much scent in twelve small flowers as in the larger ones. Again, the Anemone Pompon variety Dick Turpin has a delicious perfume. Fancy twelve blooms of this variety, which is naturally very small as Chrysanthemums go nowadays, competing with those named pre- viously; had the class been for twelve bunches, the small-flowered kinds would have had an equal chance with the other sorts. A bunch of flowers of the variety Mrs. Langtryfullydeveloped emits a more pleasing perfume than any other variety that I am acquainted with. My reason for considering that the added clause is wrong is, that by inserting the word "chief" it Infers that scent is not the only con- sideration the society wished the judges to make. If theword"chief " had been omitted altogether, then scent would have been the only point to consider. I take it that the encouragement of fragrance In Chrysanthemums was the object of the Hull Society when offering the prizes ; therefore, I trust that the committee of that society will accept my criticisms in the manner they are given — for the encouragement of scented Chrysanthemums. A few notes on the culture of this class of Chry- santhemums may not be out of place here. The only varieties that I know possessing a fragrance are Progne, a small-flowered, rather tall-growing variety of the reflexed type, amaranth in colour, violet-scented ; Dr. Sharpe, also reflexed, magenta colour. If this variety be grown with the object of producing large flowers on what is termed the crown- bud principle, they have little or no scent ; even if there be any, it lasts a very short time; but when grown with a view to provide a quantity of blossoms — as it does readUy — the fragrance is much more pronounced. The single variety Mrs. Langtry, pale pink, is dwarf in habit, branching freely and flower- ing abundantly the whole length of the stems. One or two plants will perfume a whole house. Dick Turpin, with brightly - coloured ray florets and deep yellow-centred flowers, [is very highly per- fumed. Cuttings may be inserted in the ordinary way, or two in a 3-inch pot. Any time during the present month, when the plants are 4 inches high, pinch out the point of each to induce side branches; select about three of the strongest of these, re- moving any others. When those retained have grown from 4 inches to 6 inches long, once more pinch the points. From these select six of the strongest shoots. These may be allowed to grow unchecked, and will in time produce a plentiful supply of flowers. The varieties Progne and Dr. Sharpe should have some of the weakest-growing branches removed from the lower part of the main stems, and the flower-buds should be thinned some- what to induce a fuller development of the flowers remaining; but in the case of the single variety and Dick Turpin, when six of the strongest stems are selected upon each to remain, all branches growing from them should remain, and all bloom-buds allowed to develop. It is the freedom of flowering and graceful habit of the flower-stems when fully developed that lend such a charm to single and Anemone-Pompon Chrysanthemums. In some cases two plants may be grown in one pot where space is a consideration. The pots at each potting should be a trifle larger. Plants moderately grown will produce better scented blooms, whOe the colour of Progne and Dr. Sharpe will be richer if later pro- duced flower-buds are retained for flowering. — E. M. At page 605, under this head, I distinctly said that while myself and others like the odour of Chrysanthemums, even in their leaf odour, that "others object to it quite as decidedly." " E. C." (at page 9) seems difficult to please. I wish Mr. Molyneux or some other good grower would give tis a complete list of really sweet-scented varieties, as many would like to grow them. — 1". W. B. CHRYSANTHEMUM SHOW SCHEDULES. Mr. Molyneux always writes with authority upon all that relates to the Chrysanthemum, but some surprise wiU be felt in finding that he, whilst actually favourable to the existence of such huge classes as forty-eight incurved flowers, yet intimates that a class for forty-eight incurved and Japanese flowers is a very difiicult one to compete in. I should have thought that if it was difiicult to obtain twenty-four good incurved flowers, it would be far more difiicult to make up forty-eight blooms, even though twenty-four duplicates were allowed. I have never regarded the class for forty- eight blooms, half incurved and half Japanese, as seen at Kingston, for instance, as a difiicult class for exhibitors, especially as [competition in it is always large ; but I have always regarded it as a difficult one for the judges, because it is far from easy to balance Japanese flowers against incurved ones. And there is little sense in the combination. But the offer of a cup, which has to be won twice before it be- comes the property of the competitor, gives to classes of this kind an interest which they do not merit. Still, it must be obvious that it should be no more difficult for any ordinary grower to make up twenty-four incurved flowers and twenty- four Japanese flowers for one class than to put up twenty-four of each kind in two classes. I think it would be well if, in all cases, no class exceeded twenty - four blooms. But whilst I agree with the suggestion that the exhibitors in the 24 class should be excluded from the 18 class, that other growers might be induced to compete, I would establish also an open class for eighteen blooms, in which exhibitors should stage flowers quite diverse in variety from those in the 24 class, and thus bring to the front many beau- tiful flowers which are now left at home, because. Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 53 perhaps, not np to the ordinary show standard. Committees in arranging their schedules might, by cutting down the big classes, do a lot in this way to add interest to their shows, encourage the exhibition of neglected flowers, and promote a stronger feeling of competition amongst growers. I think Mr. Molyneux is wrong as regards know- ing the names of the judges before he agrees to exhibit at any show. This demand would place it in the power of other exhibitors, members of committee, to keep Mr. Molyneux from compet- ing by appointing as judges men objectionable to him. Why should such a condition be exacted in the case of the Chrysanthemum ? Surely we may have confidence in committees that they will do their best to furnish fitting judges, and as good men are needed for the summer shows as for those of the Chrysanthemum. On the whole, the less known beforehand of the judges the better. A. D. Flower Garden. PRIMULAS OF THE MARITIME ALPS. We are accustomed to hear much of the almost sub-tropical flora and of the climate of the Riviera, but it is seldom — too seldom — that ing plants are seen, such as Saxifraga coohlearis, Micromeria Piperella, Saxifraga lantoscana. It is not, however, my intention now to speak of the very many rare and beautiful alpine plants which are met with during such a walk, or to speak of the beauty and grandeur of the scenery, but rather to draw attention to one or two species of Primulas which are found there. P. LATIFOLIA (Lap.). — This plant, which is found in great abundance, varies considerably both in the size and the colour of the flowers. The blossoms are borne in large clusters on long naked stalks ; in some places there are only single plants, while in others (at high altitudes) it is found in large tufts. P. MABGINATA, which, I believe, is confined to these Alps, is found very plentifully. It generally prefers sunny positions, and soil freely intermingled with nodules of stone. It derives its specific name from the leaves having a white margin, which adds greatly to the beauty of the plant. The plant is also easily recognised by the whole of it being dusted over with a sort of yellowish-white powder. The flowers, bluish-lilac in colour, are large, and unfortunately appear so early in the spring that one is rarely able to see them, excepting at high positions on the mountains, where they appear later. It may be here remarked that there are many ^^^~mr>" Primula AlUoni. anything is told us of the snow-capped moun- tains which run almost parallel with the Medi- terranean coast, which is from 40 to 50 miles distant. They are, nevertheless, most interest- ing, rising to an elevation of over 10,000 feet. The lowest pass over the chain is more than 6000 feet high. The flora of this district is, in many respects, distinct from that of the Swiss Alps. There is one locality which the native popu- lation are accustomed to visit, viz., the Sanc- tuary of La Madonna Finestre — so named from the pass (8000 feet) immediately above. The sanctuary and other buildings are situated in a fine alpine valley, bordered on either side by lofty mountains. It may be reached either by carriage from Nice to San Martino Lantosca, from which place a mule track leads to the hotel, or by carriage or public conveyance, which runs daily, from Nice to the Abbey of San Dalmazzo, or to Tenda (3 miles further). From either of these places to the Colle della Finestre the journey is a most interesting one. In some portions of the route there is no well- defined path, so, in case of fog, a compass should be taken. To allow of ample time for botanising, an early start should be made. Immediately on starting, a number of interest- varieties of this, varying both in foliage and flower. At the Primula Conference, held in London some time ago, Messrs. Backhouse and Son exhibited some interesting varieties, which were collected in close proximity to where P. latifolia and P. viscosa (VUl.) are found. It is, therefore, probable that these varieties were of hybrid origin. P. VISCOSA (Vill.) is one which is found on most of the European mountains, and it is as beauti- ful as it is common. The leaves are very viscid to the touch ; the flowers are bright rose or rosy- purple, borne in dense clusters on short, sturdy stalks. P. FARINOSA occurs occasionally, but I have never seen it here so fine as in Teesdale and other parts of England. P. Allioni (Lois.) (see illustration, for which we are indebted to Messrs. Backhouse and Son), which I consider the best of all, is found in very peculiar positions. I well remember first discovering it. I retired into a large cave (limestone) for the purpose of shelter from the sun while partaking of food, and when the eyes became accustomed to the subdued light, something unusual was noticed apparently clinging to the roof of the cave. I at once com- menced to build a platform of loose stones, when a clump or two was secured — I say clump, for here it was in such masses that must have taken many years to produce. The tufts were found to be com- posed of neat little rosettes, 1 inch to 2 inches in diameter, clothed with nearly round or spoon-shaped, thick, fleshy leaves, the leaves thickly covered with glandular, viscid hairs. The blossoms, very circular in outline and varying in colour from pale delicate pink to rose-pink, are over an inch in diameter, and rest literally on the foliage. It was thought this plant would be most difficult to cultivate from the peculiar position in which it was found (it has, however, since been discovered in crevices f uUy ex- posed to air and light). Fortunately, it has proved by no means difficult to grow. It is better not to expose it to too much wet in winter. The Androsaces, which are closely related to the Primulas, are most interesting. There are about seven species. I have, however, only seen the follow- ing on these Alps : A. carnea, A. carnea var. brigan- tica, A. imbricata, A. villosa, and A. Vitaliana. A. brigantica is rare and very pretty, with small flowers of snowy whiteness. A. imbricata always occurs in narrow fissures of calcareous rocks ; it has silvery leaves and comparatively large solitary, pure white blossoms resting upon the leaves. The most brilliant of these is A. Vitaliana, which, when seen in full flower, resembles tufts of gold. Soldanella alpina is also very abundant, and is most conspicuous when seen with its bluish, bell-shaped, deeply-fringed blossoms appearing through the melting snow. Holgate, York. R. POTTER, NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. The Saffron-flowered Saxifrage (Saxifraga mutata). — I have never known this singular and beautiful kind to flower when less than three years old, and often the plants have been older. The species bears seed freely, and seed-raising is practically the only means of increasing it. I have never known a cultivated specimen to survive after producing seed. The plant is very apt to rot off at this season, especially if grown in lowland gardens, or on land of a damp nature. I believe that the dead, but very persistent foliage, owing to its hold- ing too much moisture about the softer part of the half-woody stem, causes its decay. Anyhow the plants that have not flowered for five years (as I have known many to do), and which have con- sequently become leggy, rarely succumb in the wettest of winters, owing, as I suppose, to the longer stem being harder and drier. There is a mode of growing this desirable Saxifrage by which two points are gained, viz., earlier flowering and a less proportion of losses from damp. It simply consists in growing the plants on a sloping and sunny part of the rockwork, on a patch that has been coated with sandstone to a thickness of 3 inches or 4 inches. Not only do the plants mature earlier when so placed, but the self-sown seed, according to my experience, has always vegetated more freely in the grit than it did elsewhere. The Scarlet Lobelia (Lobelia cardinalis) and other varieties of the tall and so-called hardy perennials are certainly not safe in all gardens if left out entirely unprotected. It may be questioned also if it is a good practice to dig up the roots and store them as we do Gladioli and Dahlias, for it has often been found that when the plants have been gone over in spring that nearly every ofl'set had more or less decayed. If one must dig up the roots, they should be separated from each other and kept rather dry in an airy place. I have, however, found the plan of protecting the roots where they have grown by a good covering of coal-ashes to involve both less labour and risk. If the clumps, which start into growth in March, be cut up, potted, and placed in cold frames they will do well for planting by the latter end of May. The Spring Gentian (Gentiana vema) is cer- tainly not difiicult to accommodate, but if I wanted it in big patches, I would take a little more time and raise seeds on the spot. The seed is cheap, and there need be no difficulty in securing it quite fresh. Plants flower the second year from seed. The most Important point is to prepare the soil for the seed, and the position should be fully ex- posed with a provision for moisture. My seed- lings came up freel^f when sown in a mixture of 54 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. free loam, small stones, and leaf-mould. This compost was laid 18 inches thick on a bed of small rubble at the base of a slope having a southern aspect. No plant could have more risks to run than the vernal tientian when planted so late as the latter end of November, unless the specimens had been previously established in pots. I should never think of planting short or fibreless-rooted alpines so near the times of frosts and thaws as we experience them. All such plants are sure to be thrown on the surface, and even if they are put back with the utmost care, they may have received an injury, and finally die off. Just a word about the term "fresh seed," only to make what may seem a very narrow distinction between "just ripe" and "just gathered" seed, owing to the way in which the pods retain their contents, you may have "freshly gathered " seed a month or more after it has been ripened, and when we remember that per- haps nowhere could the seed be kept to greater disadvantage than when left in the dried pods to bake in the summer sunshine, we may see the im- portance of collecting the seeds of certain kinds as soon as the pods split at the apex. The Scorpion Iris (Iris alata) has been fre- quently and fa%'ourably referred to of late, as it well deserves, but we must not be led to believe that it is capable of standing out-door exposure; in mild winters it may do, but already such as were left exposed have been killed here. J. Wood. ^you(h■iUe,K^'rlls^aU. plants (at the least fifteen years old) are one solid mass of bloom and foliage. I have had some speci- mens photographed, of which more another time. But there is a great future before the Christmas Rose when grown after my fashion, in conjunction under glass with Megaseas, and Daffodils for winter bloom, without fire-heat. To my mind, no plant is more valuable for producing white flowers from November until February. We have also a fine pro- mise of bloom with the Algerian white Corbularia and Narcissus triandrus albus planted out of doors. Both are now well in bud in a raised position at the foot of a south wall.— W. B. H , Corli. A good annual climber. — Anyone in want of a really good annual climber should not fail to in- clude the Japanese Hop (Humulus japonicus) in their order list. We have now a good number of plants suitable for draping unsightly walls, &c., but few equal this for grace and beauty, as well as rapid growth. The habit resembles that of the common Hop, the leaves, however, being more numerous, with more divisions and incisions, and of a much lighter or yellowish green. The plants may be raised successfully in the open air along with the other annuals. For covering trellises, verandahs, outhouses, unsightly walls, or as a feature in the pleasure garden or park this Hop is unequalled amongst the annual climbers at present known. The lively green of the leaves is retained until late in the autumn, and the contrast with the varied autumn tints is very marked. — K. Prematiire spring in the south of Ireland. — All sorts of Daffodils are well above the soil and promise a wonderful bloom. Then we have the Crocus, Snowdrop, Squills of all sorts. Glory of the Snow, &c., well above the surface, and in flower Gentiana acaulis. Paper- white Nar- cissus, Anemone fulgens. Winter Aconites, Iris stylosa with a perfume like that of Primroses, Ox- lips, Primroses, and Cowslips of many sorts, hybrid Primroses with the early sulphur double form, and in Hellebores (niger varieties), altifolius, St. Brigid, Riverstoni, caucasious, Madame Fourcade, three varieties of major, as collected from Teignmouth, Bath, and our Irish form — I should like to call it multiflorus — and to add a small Inte-flowering sort that may be recognised as H. niger vernalis. Among Daffodils the most forward — the beds being all covered with foliage and buds — are Ard-Righ, Tenby, Trumpet Maximus, Henry Irving, Golden Plover, Johnstoni, Leda, Corbularia, conspicuus. General Gordon, princeps, &c. Pallidus prtccox seems late for imported bulbs, so does nobili.s. The Italian double form of Telamonius, the bulbs here for four years known as praecox, will bloom probably at the same time as Ard-Righ, early next month. Then under glass in a cool house we have very forward the rare ryclamineus — astonishing! the smallest bulb of this variety gives its bloom to per- fection— capax, pallidus pricoox, Leda (White Trumpet), and in full bloom Ard-Righ, blooms of which were sent to The Gabden offif.e on New Year's Day. Its fine golden trumpets are very beautiful, and the pots jilaced at intervals with other plants have a good effect. In a cold houfe planted permanently in tubs :i feet in diameter we have a grand disjjlay of Christmas Roses. The CHRISTMAS ROSES. "J. C. C," in The Gaedbn of Dec. 31 (p. 509), writes ; — Hellebores evidently do not like being disturbed. Two years ago I very carefully lifted some plants bodily with a fork and transferred them with great care to their new quarters. They have, however, hardly recovered eveu now, &c. My experience is the reverse of "J. C. C.'s". Two years ago I lifted some for forcing purposes, and as soon as.the blooming was over the plants were put back in the place from whence they came. They are now a perfect mass of large, weU-formed flowers and buds, and to a casual observer look as if they had not been touched for many years. I must, however, make this admission, and which is perhaps the secret of success, that the ground was thoroughly enriched before they were put back in their old quarters. — W. J. D., Alton Nurseries, Headingleii, Leeds. My experience in dividing Christmas Roses differs from that of "J. C. C." in The Garden, Dec. 31 (p. 599). as I have always found that they succeed well when Ihey are divided carefully and all the soil shaken, or, better still, washed from the roots, and then planted in a suitable position in any fairly good soil. I attach some importance to clear- ing off all the old soil, for they appear to do badly when lifted and planted with a ball. "J. C. C." gives us an instance of this, as he says that some which he planted in this way two years ago have not yet made a good start, and he apparently infers from this that they would have done still worse had they been divided. I think there is far too much faith in lifting plants with balls of soil attached. No doubt this is an important matter with many things, but there are many exceptions. I am aware that Hellebores, as well as other plants, should be carefully lifted, but the care required is more to preserve the roots intact than to have a body of soil attached to them. The weight of the soil fre- quently breaks or wrenches the roots, and so defeats the object of careful lifting. Hellebores do not make fibrous roots, and if broken they rot back to the base, and probably cause still further decay. I know of quite small bits that were planted less than four years ago some hundreds of miles north of the home of the parent plant which have made very fine plants, and have produced large quantities of fine blooms this year. I prefer planting Christ- mas Roses during .January and February, provided the weather is suitable. — John C.Tallack, JJrer- mere I'arli. I admire H. niger angustifolius very much with its large, pure white flowers and ample foliage, but I am not altogether sure that the plant sent out by nurserymen under the name of H. niger ruber does not carry off the palm for simple beauty True it lacks the abundant foliage of H. angusti- folius ; but then, in the case of the latter, the leaves are often too numerous, while in H. n. ruber there are just sufficient to set off the flowers to the best advantage. In the open, however, unless in well-sheltered spots, H. n. ruber loses a great many of its fine, bold, dark green leaves; some git dis coloured, and the beauty of the plant, though not of the flowers, is marred. Angustifolius retains most of its leaves, though in some few instances they are discoloured. Another plant sold as H. caucasicus seems to me to be all foliage, and no — at least, very few — flowers, which are small, dirty white, and much inferior to those of the typical H. niger, which I consider the best of all. H. maxi- mus or altifolius and major are also very desirable varieties. — K. Iceland Poppies (Papaver nudicaule). — The original type was introduced one hundred and fifty years ago. The plants appeared to have suffered some neglect, but of late years they have rapidly grown into popular favour, and very pretty and striking tufts of them can be seen among other places in the London parks. They are well suited for rockwork, a position in which they do well. Then they are perfectly hardy, and produce an almost endless profusion of flowers. The habit of growth is neat and graceful, and the foliage elegant and somewhat Fern-like, and from amidst the tuft's formed by it rise slender stalks a foot in height bearing charming flowers. As a rule. Poppies are not persistent enough to be of much value for cutting, but P. nudicaule is one of the best for the purpose. The normal type is of a pleasing shade of yellow. Then there is album, which has pure white blossoms. P. nudicaule miniatum is a singularly bright and pleasing variety,having flowers of an intense orange-scarlet colour, and it has re- ceived a first-class certificate of merit. They can all be raised from seed. — R. D. Hardiness of Gladiolus corms. — With refer- ence to the paragraph about these on p. S, I beg to say that, having got several clumps of Gladiolus brenchleyensis frozen in by the early cold in autumn, 188G, I gave them up as done for; nevertheless, when I examined them in the spring, I found an increased number of sound and plump corms, de- cidedly better than some I had just bought for planting. I dug them out and replanted them with the new ones, and all came up, but (owing, I sup- pose, to the want of rain during the summer) none of either lot flowered. I have now left out both these and some hybrids, and hope to save them all, my soil being light and on gravel. Last summer I saw in Essex a magnificent clump of single Dahlias, three times as strong and handsome as either of the many other clumps in the same garden, and was told that it came from a root accidentally left in the ground all winter. I believe many bulbous and other roots which are not considered hardy might safely be left cut if planted deeply (a foot of soil will protect from a long frost) and well provided with drainage and with plenty of grit and fibre about them. Probably "J. C. C.'s" self-sown corms are much deeper in the ground than he ever plants any. The Winter Cherry, by the way, has always hitherto perished with me, whether in the form of seedlings or transplanted roots ; but I have never planted it deeply. — Wm. Simmons, Enjield. Some simple arrangements. — I have found the following combinations very effective: — One massing or combination is most beautiful — Heliotrope and Cineraria maritima. One or more big beds should be of these. Calceolaria amplexicaulis makes a grand bed, but does not mix very well with many flowers ; does well with sweet variegated-leaved Pelargonium. Pelargonium Indian Yellow, a lovely salmon-pink, with P. Lucius, a deeper pink. Verbenas, deep and light purple ; also with Cine- raria maritima and Centaurea ragusina. Verbenas, scarlet and pink together. French and African Marigolds. Bed of Zinnias and bronze-red Cannas. Small bed of Fuchsia, single white and scarlet (Cnnnell's Gem and Delight are two beautiful sorts). Salvia patens with green Cannas and sweet-leaved Pelargoniums. Some pink Pelargoniums, with Mme. Crousse, salmon-pink. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums towards edge. Calceolaria floribundawith Gazania towards edge. lieddicg Nasturtiums in any combination. I think this list includes the most desirable things in good simple mixtures. — J. Alpine plants on rockeries.— Mary of the snialkT alpiuoa, iiotwitlistaiuling the comparatively mild winter, are having a hard time of it. Id their native habitats they are uow snug underneath the warm snow, while on our rockeries they are subjected to rapid elmngcs of temperature, with a superabund- ance of moisture, which is anything but agreeable to .Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 55 .them. Squares of glass and other ingenious methods have heen tried with varying success. Bits of glass, however, or the shelter of a large boulder, do'niuch to preserve these alpine gems under ordinary cireum- btauces. — K. FLOWER GAEDEN NOTES. Herbaceous plants. — Last year all our plants were taken up, so that the beds and borders might be trenched and manured, and really they did so remarkably well, that I am half inclined to serve them the same this year. The only plants that re- sented the lifting were the Japanese Anemones, Lilies, Acanthuses, and Pieonies of all kinds. They evidently do best if left undisturbed for years, and, therefore, as soon as the weather is favourable and it is decided to lift the general bulk to be able to trench the ground, these kinds shall be left undis- turbed. I am so satisfied from last year's expe- rience that the general opinion that this class of plants when once planted will take care of them- selves is an erroneous one, that never in future will I fail annually either to lift and re-plant in order to give the beds a good dressing of manure, or to fork in plenty of good manure in as careful a manner as possible, so as to avoid injury to the surface-roots. I think the difficulty in regard to kinds that dislike annual moving might be surmounted by allotting separate beds or parts of borders to such kinds alone. I am having separate borders prepared that I may practically test the idea here expressed. What I shall call the permanent section shall have one bed, and the kinds that flower best when lifted yearly the other. It may be well to add that the new beds are to take the place of sub-tropicals, a change that a few years since I should have looked upon as retrograde. The opposite is the case now, and the change has come about by a closer study of hardy flowers. The success of last year has in- creased the desire to have still more. There is one drawback in connection with arrangements of these plants, namely, the difficulty of covering the whole of the soil of the borders. I have the honour to serve an employer who has educated his eye up to that stage of relinement, that he keeps constantly asking so long as a bit of soil is visible, " When will it be filled up ? " Personally, I do not object to a bit of bare ground ; at the same time, I do think that more might be done in the way of carpeting the ground with Sedums, Herniarias, Thymes, prostrate A^eronicas, and Antennarias, and in the new beds I propose to plant, the attempt shall be made. Sweet Peas. — Most people like these ; here they are in great demand, and therefore we strive to have them as early and as late as possible. Our first sowing in the open air was made on the 11th inst. in one of the quarters in the kitchen garden. The drill was thickly strewn with soot, and the Peas covered with the same material before the soil was put over, and neither mice nor birds disturb the seeds (they used to do till we adopted this dress- ing). As soon as the tops appear above ground they are dredged with tobacco powder, and a sniff of it is sufficient to deter the birds from making a second visit. We have a batch that was sown in 3-incli pots some three weeks since, and as soon as they are a couple of inches high they will be planted out, in small clumps of three and five plants each, in any warm corner near the shelter of fruit walls, which, together with the thick spray branches cut from the tops of Hazel with which they will be at once staked, will prove ample protection from the hardest frost. Lilt of the Valley and Pbimroses. — We have a nice plot of Lily of the Valley that has been left undisturbed for some years, and as fine flowers are always forthcoming in great abundance, the annual top-dressing of fresh soil and decayed cow manure is evidently relished. The crowns are just commencing to grow, and this is the best time to apply the dressing. But first remove any weeds and old foliage that may still adhere to the plants, then very lightly fork up the surface, so that the dressing to be applied may mix more thoroughly with the old soil. The aspect of the plot is north- east, shade from bright sunshine in summer being necessary for the well-doing of this moisture-loving Lily. The plantation of Primroses adjoins that of the Lilies, anij these also do well in the same aspect and soil. The strain is Dean's. The colours are of all shades, from almost pure white to vivid scarlet, and the plants might with truth be called perpetual, for it is very rarely indeed that flowers cannot be gathered from some or other of the plants, and from about the beginning of April to the end of May the quantity of flowers they produce is enormous. The plants are to be top-dressed after the manner named for the Lilies, but there being a quantity of self- sown seedlings between the rows of the old plants, these will first be taken up and the soil between the rows loosened, and this work must be done soon, as a great number of the plants are already showing flower. The seedlings will be transplanted into shallow boxes before being planted in the rockery amongst clumps of shrubs, and any that can be spared will be planted amongst the wild Primroses in the woods, where some of them are already established. Spring flowers. — Wallflower, Brompton Stock, Liiunanthes, Silene, Forget-me-not, and Nemo- phila are about all the early spring flowers we transplant in the autumn for spring flowering, and they are mostly in clumps of three or five plants in the open parts of Kose beds. The soil being light and dry, protection is unnecessary, other than that of making the smaller seedlings quite firm in the ground after each spell of sharp frost. This is specially necessary in respect of Silenes, as the frost not unfrequently brings these entirely out of the ground. These spring flowers are planted over or closely adjoining clumps of Lilium longiflorum and tigrinum, that begin to bloom about the time the spring flowers are over. There being a great depth of heavily manured soil this double cropping has no apparent injurious effect on the Roses. Propagation of bedding plants. — Though by a greatly increased use of hardy bedding plants this work has been much reduced, we still require a large number, and as we have not got too much space for wintering, we only propagate sufficient in the autumn to ensure stock cuttings in spring, and on that account the work has been commenced early. Ordinary hot-bed frames, made of leaves and long stable litter, are the handiest structures for rapid propagation of such plants as Heliotropes, Marguerites, Petunias, Iresine, and Coleus. The cuttings are inserted from nine to twelve in a 5-inch pot, and are partially plunged in leaves, the bottom- heat necessary being from G5'' to TC. Provided the heat is not greater than this, the cuttings will strike readily if a little air is admitted daily to carry off excessive vapour. If the temperature ranges higher than this, unless air be freely given, there will be danger of the cuttings damping off. Pelargoniums strike most successfully in a dry heat, and we put the cuttings in shallow boxes, and place them over the hot- water pipes in any of the forcing houses. Pink-flowered and white variegated Pelar- goniums are my favourites, and there are none, out of the almost numberless varieties, that excel the old pink Master Christine, or the white variegated May Queen, and the very old kind, Manglesi varie- gata, which is invaluable for mixing with any shades of blue or purple. Lady Plymouth, a sweet-scented variegated kind, and Lady IJetty, a lieautiful double- flowered pink variety, are also excellent for the same purpose. These are about all the variegated kinds grown here, soft or quiet colouring being sought after rather than novelty. For vases in which higher or brighter colours show to the best advantage there are no better kinds than Henri Jacoby and Bonfire. We had last year vases of these kinds alternated with what is now known as the Blue Marguerite (Agath:Baca3lestis), and the effect was very fine, and it will, therefore, be repeated this year. Sowing sub-teopicals. — We have not much space|to devote to sub-tropical or large-growing fine- foliated plants, and the few beds there are have mainly to be planted with seedlings raised in the spring, there being no house room to spare for win- tering large plants. It is too early to sow the rapid- growing kinds, such as Castor-oils, Maize, and To- bacco, but slow-growing kinds ought to be sown at once. Amongst these are Grexillea robusta, Sola- num pyracanthum, Solanum argenteum, Phormium tenax, Melianthus major, Cannas, and Eucalyptus. They all require a temperature of not less than G5°, and though bottom-heat is not indispensable, the seeds germinate better by having a little, such as that to be had from a bed of leaves that at this time of year is generally made up on the floors of early vineries for the production of a warm, moist atmosphere. The pots or boxes in which the seeds are sown need not be plunged ; if stood on the leaves, sufficient warmth will be imparted to the soil. W. W. Kitchen Garden. KITCHEN GAKDEN NOTES. Eaklt Potatoes. — These are not particularly pro- fitable crops under glass, but they must be grown whether there is any convenience in the shape of frames and pits or not. The best positions are deep pits provided with a single hot-water pipe, this being sufficient to keep out the frost. The pit should be nearly filled with a mixture of leaves and stable manure, which will retain heat long enough to mature a crop of Potatoes, and also to give a good start to a successional planting of either Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Melons, or Kidney Beans. If there is any likelihood of the bed becoming too hot (which frequently happens if formed with rather green materials), it must not be soiled over for a time. Our hot-beds being composed largely of leaves previously thrown together into a heap and turned frequently, seldom heat violently. We make the hot-bed rather firm, and on this place first a layer of the shortest of the manure, and then about 9 inches of light loamy soil, such as the sift- ings of old Melon and Cucumber beds, or old potting material. When finished off, the soil should be within G inches of the glass, as the mass wiU always settle sufficiently to allow plenty of head room for the Potato haulm. As soon as the trial stakes, plunged in the centre of the bed, denote a decline in the heat, if not already done, soil over at once, and plant as soon as the soil is warmed through. The sets may be forwarded in a warm house while the beds are being prepared, all that is needed being to set them closely together in shallow boxes, sprout end upwards, and sprinkle overhead occasionally. Nothing is gained by crowding the rows; in fact, the Potatoes mature much more quickly when al- lowed plenty of room. If the lights are 4 feet wide, or rather more, three rows are quite sufficient, but if nearer 3 feet in width, two rows in each are ample. Open the drills 6 inches deep, disposing the sets 9 inches apart, and carefully covering over. Those sets furnished with one good sprout give the best returns, and all side shoots should be removed. As the Potatoes come on very rapidly, it is not ad- visable to sow Radishes between them. They ought never to be dry at the roots, and the lights should be tilted up during mild days. • The successional, and in many instances the first crops, have to be taken from deep cold pits or frames set on gentle hot-beds, these being formed about 4 feet high at the back and rather less in front. The preparation of the beds and other treatment is in all respects similar to that just described in the case of those in heated pits, only it will be necessary to closely cover the frames with mats and litter every night. As the haulm grows more .slowly where there is no top-heat, a pinch of early Radish seed may be sown thinly over the surface of the bed and lightly covered. Several good bunches of tender roots may in this manner be obtained very early. Potatoes in pots. — Very early dishes are to be had from a few dozen plants in pots or boxes, and it is not yet too late to make a start. The plan is more especially to be commended to those with plenty of fruit houses and but few pits or frames. Fronts of early and late Peach houses, vineries, and on-hard houses are capital positions for early Pota- toes in either pots or boxes, and without much trouble several fairly good dishes may be there ob- tained. The shelves of these houses may also be utilised for a similar purpose, as it is possible to grow the Potatoes in 9 inch pots. The Chry- 56 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. santhemnm pots and old soil might be thus em- ployed while the young plants are being brought forward. The soil we use consists of two parts fresh loam to one of old Mushroom-bed manure, and when this mixture is also placed in the pits we sometimes get a crop of Mushrooms as well as Potatoes. Very little drainage is needed, and the pots are only half-filled with the soil, this allowing for a subsequent moulding-up with fresh soil, which should be given before the haulm is far ad- vanced. One set is sufficient for a 9-inch pot, two for those rather larger, and three for any 12-inch and upwards in diameter. If deep boxes are em- ployed, place a single row in those not more than 9 iuches wide, and a double row in any about 12 inches wide. The subsequent treatment consists in watering whenever the soil is at all dry, and the tubers are fit for use when as large as Walnuts. When wanted, take out the largest tubers each time and leave the rest to grow bigger. The true Old Ashleat and Early Border are the best for either frame or pot culture, but as these are not generally procurable, most cultivators must rely upon Veitch's Improved Ashleaf. Kidney Beans. — Those with a limited amount of house room seldom attempt to maintain a never- ending supply of this popular vegetable, and merely content themselves with gathering as much as they can from March till late in the autumn. The earliest crops are from plants in pots, and a sowing is made in January and repeated every fortnight until those in frames or the open ground com- mence to yield. The good old Osborn's Forcing was at one time preferred for the earliest crops, but this is being ousted by Ne Plus Ultra, the latter being quite as early as Osborn's and more prolific. We prefer 9 -inch pots (twenty-five being sufficient for a batch), drained lightly and filled with rich loamy soil. About a dozen seeds are sown in each pot, and if all germinate the plants are reduced to six in number. In order to get them up quickly set the pots on the hot-water troughs, or even the pipes in a forcing house, and here every seed will germinate strongly. New seed will usually come up regularly when the pots are set on a warm shelf or mild hotbed, but old seed, which sometimes has to be used, cannot be depended upon unless the pots are set on the pipes. The plants should be removed from the pipes before becoming drawn, and be ar- ranged on a light bench or shelf in a brisk heat, and to prevent them from tumbling about they should be supported either with a few Birch sprays or four light stakes and matting round them. The old practice of top-dressing the plants is only labour thrown away, as the roots rarely find their way into the fresh soil. My plan of filling the pots when the seed is sown obviates this difficulty, and the roots have the benefit of a full pot of soil. When the pots are well filled with roots plenty of water is needed, coupled with overhead syringings in order to keep down red spider, and liquid manure should be given frequently. The Beans ought to be gathered directly they are fully grown, a few hours' delay spoiling them as well as weakening the plants. TUBNIP.S IN FRAMES. — In numerous gardens Turnips are very scarce, nor are there many markets wjll supplied with them. Early sowings or those for affording Turnips during the autumn were in most cases complete failures, and the later sowings were stopped in their growth by cold weather and frosts. We were fortunate in securing abundance ot good roots by sowing seed on a north border ia July, Red Globe and Chirk Castle Blackstone baing especially tender and good at the present time. Fortunately, the introduction of the Early Jlilan Turnip renders it a comparatively easy matter to force a quantity of serviceable roots almost as quickly as Radishes. Our plan is to prepare a hotbed of leaves and manure about 3 feet high at the back and 2 feet high at the front, on this setting a three-light frame, one quarter filling this with short manure, and on this spreading a layer of loamy soil about C inches deep. If at all dry it is watered, and the seed is then sown broad- cast and rather thinly over the bed, and lightly covered with fine light soil. The frame is kept close till the plants appear, when air is given in the daytime when the weather permits, closing early and well covering with mats or litter every night. The plants may be thinned to about 4 inches apart each way, and it not kept too warm and properly watered, they will soon form bulbs. The Early Milan forms but little top, and if the bed is drawn from when the largest bulbs are about 4 inches in circumference the rest will be benefited by their removal. It is reaUy surprising what a lot of Turnips can be grown In a frame. The fronts of early and late Peach houses, or other fruit houses, may also be utilised for the production of a quantity of early Turnips. Forced Asparagus, Seakat.e, and Rhubarb. —Fitful supplies of these rarely give satisfaction, and the aim should be to maintain an even succes- sion. All are easily forced, the greatest difficulty being experienced in procuring sufficient strong roots for the purpose. In some few oases Aspara- gus is grown specially for forcing, but, as a rule, the roots are drawn from old beds that are to be destroyed. Gentle hotbeds, either in pits or formed in the open large enough to hold a two-light or larger frame, are most suitable for forcing Aspara- gus. The roots, carefully lifted, should at once be spread out on a layer of rich soil and covered with 2 inches or more of soil, this, if at all dry, being well moistened with lukewarm water. The frame being kept close and dark, the roots soon become active and the " grass " appears. On no account should the soil be allowed to become dry, and if a thin sprinkling of salt be washed in, it will en- courage strong growth. A bed ought, if not unduly forced, to remain productive for about three weeks. Asparagus may be forced in heated pits without the aid of hotbed material, but we prefer a gentle and less dry heat. Seakale roots may be lifted and forced in darkened frames alongside the Asparagus, or if placed in large pots and rich compost, set in a forcing house, and kept watered as needed, plenty ot fibrous roots are formed, and if liquid manure is given, the second cuttings wiU be greatly improved thereby. A warm Mushroom house being available, the pots may be set in this instead of a forcing house, or the roots may be planted in rich soil in a warm corner of the house. A few roots should be introduced into heat every fortnight, and the old roots stored and protected from frost till wanted for propagat- ing purposes. Rhubarb is also most easily forced in a Mushroom house or under the staging of a forcing house. Ours is obtained in a heated pit, darkened, and with a little top and bottom heat. Strong old roots of early varieties are lifted, though the giant late also forces quickly. W. I. M. Garden, Oct. 29, 1887 (p. 401), ia the purple large Gournay Winter Radish. — H. Martin, Paris, Garden Flora. Late-grown Tomatoes.— I find these most useful for prolonging the season during which fresh home-grown fruit can be had without any great amount ot artificial heat. To get young plants to ripen fruit at midwinter requires more elaborate means in the way of heated structures than many people possess, while by growing a crop in any cool house, so as to get the fruit well advanced by Sep- tember, they can be readily ripened off by applying a little fire- heat, or, if this is not possible, by cut- ting the stalks off with the fruit attached and hanging them up in a dry, warm house where they will ripen thoroughly, and keep up the supply until after Christmas. We utilise the back of a late vinery, which being wired for climbers offers a ready means of suspending them. When the autumn proves cold and wet, or frost sets in early, as was the case last year, I cut off the whole of the out- door crop and treat it in this manner, and fre- quently cut more ripe fruit than I have done during the entire season out of doors. If fully grown when cut, no matter how green, the Tomatoes ripen thoroughly with hardly any loss, and the demand is so great and continuous, that as long as they are to be had at a reasonable price they can be readily sold. In private gardens they are never more use- ful for cooking, and as our summers are rarely long enough to sufficiently ripen more than half the out- door crop, it is of the utmost importance to utilise the remnant of the crop as much as possible. — J. G. H. Radish Retteka of Sweden.— I fancy that the Radish referred to by Mr. Jas. H. Reeve in The PLATE 63S. BKAZILIAN FLAGS. (with a coloured plate of marica C^RULEA.*) Of the nine species of this interesting genus given by Mr. Baker in his " Systema Iridacea- rum " (pp. 149 and 150), the three noted below are certainly the most useful garden plants, although the others may be grown as curiosities where such are desired. The stove treatment has been that usually adopted for the members of this genus, although I am of opinion that a somewhat lower temperature, such as that supplied by the greenhouse, suits them much better. M. cserulea grown in a greenhouse re- tains the beauty of its flowers longer than when grown in a stove, and flowers at a time when the curiously marked blooms are a decided acquisition amongst half-hardy subjects. The variety called M. grandis, sent out by a Conti- nental nurseryman, seems to diSer very little from M. Northiana, and may be a form of that species, though our material was not such as to allow us to judge definitely. M. Sabini, de- scribed and figured by Lindley in the "Journal of the Horticultural Society," vol. vi., p. 75, t. 1, was sent by Don from St. Thomas's Island in 1822. It seems to be quite distinct, the flower-stera being so much longer than the leaves, pushing forth for some distance below its end a spathe-like raceme of four or five flowers, very slightly fragrant, opening two at a time at an interval ot two or three days. The outer segments are large, ultra- marine, whitish at the edges and point, and yellow towards the base, crossed with ribs of a brownish colour ; the inner ones, curved as in M. ceerulea, are sky-blue, white, chocolate, and yellow. M. hu mills, lutea, braohypus, glauca, and longifolia are the other species. M. c^BULEA is the tallest of the species now in cultivation, and although by no means easy to flower under stove treatment, the plant from which the figure in the accompanying plate was taken re- ceived, according to Mr. Bartholomew, nothing bnt ordinary greenhouse treatment, and threw up trip- lets ot flowers at intervals from the beginning of May until the middle of June. As shown in the figure, it is really a most charming Flag, and worthy the attention of all who possess a greenhouse or have the means otherwise of giving it accommoda- tion in a moderate temperature. The flowers, as will be seen, resemble those of the Tiger Lily (Tigridia), and, though like them, somewhat short- lived, an individual flower-stem will keep up a succession for a considerable time. The flower- stem grows to a height of about 3 feet, flat, almost like the leaves, which are 6 feet long and from 1 inch to 1 i inches broad. Native of Brazil, and figured in the Botayiical Magazine under the name of Cypella casrulea, tab. 5612. M. GRACILIS is another greenhouse kind, and is probably the most useful and easily accommodated of the species. It was first received at the Glasgow Botanic Garden from the famous collection at Woburn. This species is not unusually seen doing very well and flowering profusely in baskets sus- pended from the roof, although in pots it is equally effective and flowers abundantly. The flowers are much smallerthan those of M. Northiana, the outer segments of the perianth being white or bluish, and variously marked at the base ; the small inner ones are erect, recurved and spotted or marked • Drawn for The Garden at A. C. Bartholomew's, Park House, Reading, June 14, 1887, by H. G. Moon, and printed by G. Severeyns. THE GARDEN ^ 1m ^-tK""!^ BLUE E^RAZILIALT FLAG (MARICA CL/EPULEA. Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 57 with a velvety bine and reddish brown. It flowers all through the summer. Native of Brazil. M. NoBTHiANA is another charming species somewhat nearly allied to the above, so far, at least, as the colour of its flowers is concerned. Instead of the segments being almost entirely chocolate- brown, as in the above species, they are thickly spotted with the same colour. The flowers of M. Northiana are about twice the size of those of M. gracilis, and on this account it is well worthy a place, even in the choicest collections of stove plants. It was first known in this country in the collection of the Hon. Mrs. North, at Farnham Castle, who is said to have introduced it from the gardens of the Queen of Portugal about the year 1789, since which time its cultivation in our stoves has been pretty general. Its slightly fragrant flowers, produced in spring and summer, are much valued and admired, notwithstanding their fugacious character, the flowers rarely lasting more than a day, but each morning succeeded by a fresh lot. The winged stalk, about the same height and some- what resembling the leaves, is said to be sometimes viviparous. The leaves are sword-shaped, dark green, distinctly ribbed, and generally 2 feet or 3 feet in length. It is a native of Brazil. D. K. Stove and Greenhouse. T. BAINES. TOXICOPHL^AS. These are evergreen shrubs indigenous to South Africa. They form a limited genus, of which only some two reputed species are in cultivation. In their native country they are said to attain the dimensions of small trees, but they are so exceptionally free-iiowering, that they will bloom in quite a small state. Their dense, closely- packed bunches of bloom are composed of numerous tube-shaped flowers, with the limb divided into five segments. In general appear- ance the flower-heads are not unlike those of Bouvardias, only that they are larger, the in- dividual flowers being more numerous. They are white, and borne on the extremities of the shoots, and in pairs at the base of the leaves on the greater portion of the preceding season's wood ; they are powerfully and agreeably scented, for which alone the plants are worth growing. The time of blooming depends much on the way the plants are treated ; in some cases the flowers appear in spring, in others in winter. The time the growth is completed and the temperature afterwards kept up has, no doubt, much to do with the difierence in the time of flowering. It is not unlikely that these Toxicophleeas will succeed in a lower temperature than has hitherto been supposed necessary. They are propagated from cuttings of the young shoots, which strike readily when the wood has got a little firm. Growth begins as soon as the blooming is over, and consequently the earlier the plants flower the earlier in spring can cuttings in proper con- dition be obtained. As it is desirable that the young plants should get well established before the end of the growing season, it is best to get them struck as early as possible. The cuttings should be about 3 inches long and made from the stout shoots, which, when rooted, invariably grow faster than plants from weak cuttings. Trim them to a joint, removing the bottom leaf, and put them singly in small pots filled with sand. Place them under propagating glasses or in a striking frame, and keep the soil moist, giving only a little air. They will root in a few weeks if they can have a warm stove tempera- ture. After they are struck give more air, ulti- mately dispensing with the glasses altogether. When well rooted, shift them into 3-inch pots, which should be well drained and filled with good fibrous peat, to which enough sand has been added to keep it open and porous, as the plants do not like the old material shaken away with a view to replacing it with new in the manner that is practised with soft, quick - growing things. Keep the plants moderately close until the roots begin to move, after which expose them to the full air of the house. Stand the pots on moisture- holding material, by means of which much more progress will be made than is possible if they are placed on dry shelves or stages. Let them have a light position, keeping them near the glass to induce a sturdy habit. It will be neces- sary to use a thin shade in bright weather all through the summer. During the growing season an ordinary stove temperature will answer best, as through the early stages of growth they will make more progress with warm treatment than is possible under cooler conditions. Directly top growth has fairly commenced pinch out the points of the shoots ; this is necessary to induce the plants to break near the bottom. Keep the atmosphere fairly moist during the summer, closing the ventilators early enough to shut in sun heat, and syringe overhead once a day. By the end of July the plants oughtto require repotting ; give pots two or three inches larger. In potting make the soil moderately firm, as, in common with other hard- wooded subjects, the light potting often practised with soft, quick-growing things does not answer, as the soil when loose and open holds too much water. When the young shoots formed after the tops were pinched out have made 3 inches or 4 inches of growth they should be tied out horizontally; this will ensure the bottoms of the plants being furnished properly, and will cause the back eyes to break. By this means the thin, unsightly appearance wliich the plants, when they get older, frequently present will be avoided. The roots should be kept fairly moist during the spring and summer. In autumn give more air, and discontinue shading and syringing, but in thus placing them under conditions conducive to the ripening of the wood, the atmosphere of the house should not be kept so dry as is sometimes supposed necessary for stove plants. To avoid this the large amount of air often given in autumn should be reduced, and the floors, stages, etc. , not be kept so dry. An ordinary stove tempera- ture, such as answers for the other occupants of the house, will do for the plants. Before top growth begins to move in spring cut away the points of the shoots to again induce them to branch. When the days get longer give a few more degrees of heat in the night as well as during the day. As soon as growth has fairly commenced move the plants into pots from 2 inches to 4 inches larger, according to the progress that has been made. Now use the peat in a little more lumpy state than hitherto, adding a similar proportion of sand to the earlier pottings. Again syringe daily, and keep the atmosphere moister. In March, when the .sun gets powerful, shade as before in the middle of the day, and give a little air by opening the roof ventilators when the weather is warm, regulating the amount in accordance with the external conditions. When keen cutting winds prevail it is better to allow the sun's rays to raise the temperature con- siderably than to let in cold currents that injure the young tender leaves and encourage insects. Again train out the strongest shoots, allowing the weaker ones to remain erect. Treat during the ensuing summer as advised for the preceding, increasing the temperature as the season advances. If the plants make satisfactory progress they will most likely require another shift about the end of July; the condition of the roots and the amount of top growth that has been made will decide the additional root room necessary, but avoid the two extremes of using larger pots than requisite, and confining the roots so as to interfere with the top growth, the object being to get large specimens with little delay. Through the rest of the growing season treat as in the corresponding time last year, taking the necessary means to stop active growth and help the wood to ripen. Let the winter man- agement be similar to that recommended for the last, keeping the soil a little drier than in summer. The plants will now have attained a flowering size. If all goes satisfactorily they will bloom from every shoot. A good proportion of the flowers can be cut without doing any injury to the plants ; they will be rather benefited by it, as one-half the length of the preceding summer's shoots wUl be better removed. In i^act, if the shoots are not shortened to this extent when in flower, they will require cutting back after the blooming is over. Again give more warmth about the time previously advised, and as soon as the plants have commenced growth let them have a shift according to the root- growth made. After this, and onwards through the summer, treat generally as hitherto, except that no second potting will be necessary. In the summer, when the roots have got well hold of the sou, the plants wUl be benefited by ma- nure water once in ten days or a fortnight, being careful not to apply it too strong, as if the roots of plants of this description get injured to any extent, they are seldom of much use after- wards. The same holds good if surface-dress- ings of any concentrated manure are used. In all cases these should be applied in small quan- tities at a time, otherwise they often do more harm than good. In after years a continuance of the treatment so far recommended is all that is necessary, giving larger pots when requisite until the size reached is considered as large as desirable ; the strength can then be kept up by the use of stimulants, always using these when growth is going on. In this way the plants may be kept in a vigorous state for several years. The kinds in cultivation are T. spectabDis and T. Thunbergi. The former, under ordinary stove cultivation, usually blooms in the depth of winter, and somewhat earlier than T. Thun- bergi ; but, as already said, the treatment has much to do with the time of flowering. Vitality of the Pelargonium. — I have lately had an opportunity of observing the tenacity with which this popular ornament of the garden and conservatory clings to life. I had been in the habit of throwing away all plants, which having passed through a sickly stage, have turned black round the stem at the surface of the ground. Having one in this state of a good sort, the name of which I had unfortunately lost, I resolved to make cuttings of the three surviving shoots, one only of which seemed to be in a healthy condition. The result has been that I now have three fine plants of this same variety. I have since operated in the same way, and with equal success, on another that had turned black from the root upwards half the height of the plant. As I was myself unaware that it would be possible to raise cuttings from plants so affected, I send this to be inserted for the benefit of those who may happen to be as ignorant as I was myself be- fore the experiment was tried. — B. S. Seedling Abutilons. — Abutilons are not diffi- cult to raise from seed, but we have already so many good varieties, that it does not appear pro- bable we shall obtain new sorts of special value unless the raising of seedlings is carried out on a 58 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. large scale. Seedlings, however, make handsomer plants than those obtained from cuttings, and if the seed is sown early in the spring and the plants brought on in heat, they will flower by the end of the summer. When quite young the plants require a stove temperature to promote a free growth, but as the summer advances, a warm greenhouse suits them very well. With proper treatment I find that nice little specimens may be had in 3-inch and 6-inoh pots for flowering during the winter, but to keep them in bloom a temperature of from 55° to 60° is necessary. I may mention that the seeds take some time to germinate. It is therefore necessary to sow early if the plants are wanted to flower the same year, but anyone having a hotbed may raise the plants in five or sis weeks. — J. C. C. SALVIAS. Among the Salvias there are several species and varieties which are very showy and attractive. Al- though not of much commercial value, they should be grown by all who have to provide flowering plants for conservatory decoration, as they provide useful material for keeping up a bright display dur- ing the autumn and early part of the winter, a season when, with the exception of Chrysanthe- mums, flowering plants are not very plentiful. The most useful sorts are S. splendens or its variety Bruanti, bright scarlet ; S. Bethelli, a variety of S. involucrata, with large terminal panicles of rosy purple flowers, very showy ; S. Hoveyi (ianthina), deep violet-purple ; and S. Pitcheri, soft azure-blue, of rather a slender habit of growth ; if stopped from time to time during the summer it will form a compact plant for a 5-inch pot. In order to flower satisfactorily, the other varieties, which are of more vigorous growth, should be grown in 8-inch pots. Tbeatmest.— To provide stock for the following year, a few plants of each variety should be selected after they have done flowering, and placed in a favourable position, so that they may be kept healthy and free from insects. Cuttings struck in April will make good plants the same season, but the first batch should be put in as soon as they can be obtained, and the tops of these will later on give a batch of stronger cuttings than those to be ob- tained from the old plants. The cuttings will root freely in a close frame where there is a little bottom heat. In growing the plants on, the main points are to pot them on as they require it, giving them good rich loam, with a liberal addition of manure, and to keep them stopped from time to time until they have formed bushy plants. As soon as the weather permits, the plants should be placed in a cold pit, and later on they will do well out of doors. If kept in warmth too long the plants get spindly, and are also liable to the attacks of red spider, and when this is the case they will be ruined for the season. If, however, they are given a good start, the plants will give very little trouble afterwards. Although it is advisable to keep the Salvias well exposed, they should not be left out of doors too late in the au- tumn, or they will lose their foliage. " As .soon as they begin to come into flower they should be regu- larly supplied with liquid manure, which will con- Biderably prolong the flowering season. A. SHORT NOriiS.— STOVE AX/) GREENHOUSE Eucharis blooms in winter.— In Tjie Garden, Dee. 24 (p. r,7<.)), ".J. C. B." mentions that it is not easy to have theEucliaris in flower duringtlie shortest days of tlio season ; hut I do not see why it cannot be had in flower as easily in Dpcemhor as in the longest day of tlio year. I have several plants now in full bloom. — .JoFfN TnoMso:;. Paneratiums (G. Corypcr).— These are not dilli- cult to raise from .•ieeds if they are sown when ripe in shallow jiots or pans filled with loamv foil, to wliieh enough sand should he added to make it friable. Sow thinly, covering lightly with the compost, and place the pans in a house or pit where a temjierature of fid" is maintained. Give shade to prevent the soil hoini,' dried up too i|oickly, as it reijnires care in watering before the seeds have_ germinated, so as little of it should he done as possible. HERBACEOUS CALCEOLARIAS. The I'lorist for August, 1853, contains a plate of some of the best types of the herbaceous Calceo- laria grown in those days. The largest flowers scarcely exceed 1 1 inches in length, but they illus- trate the attempts made in that day to obtain form and symmetry in the blooms. Those were the days of named varieties when Calceolarias were propa- gated by means of cuttings and grown from these cu ttings into exhibition specimens, though more gene- rally from seed, as is the case now. Those were the days of Major and Gaines, Kinghorn and Constan- tine — all noted raisers, and who were doing their best to improve this rapidly rising flower. But the Calceolaria was then regarded as outside the classi- fication of florists' flowers. The varieties were of tall growth and spare habit, and the Calceolaria was regarded as an annual, and lovers of the plant were then contending that it was essentially necessary that a more shrubby habit should be infused into the herbaceous Calceolaria, a work that Mr. J. James undertook with such marked success a few years later. But what superb specimens were grown about 1853. Why, mention is made of some plants that were shown by Mr. Constantine at the metro- politan exhibitions : — Six of them measured from 7 feet to 9 feet in cir- cumference, and they were one solid mass of flowers, numheririg many hundreds on each plant. Our herbaceous Calceolarias of the present day may be said to have attained to an almost perfect habit, so close, robust, stocky, and compact is the growth. The size of the flowers has been consi- derably increased also, and they are now produced in large dense clusters, but mere size now appears to rule and form is sadly wanting, for the flowers are flat and baggy, and wanting in that symmetry seen thirty years ago. Presently, in all probability, something more will be done in the direction of securing better form, which is most desirable. Calling at Messrs. Sutton and Son's Portland Nursery at Reading a few days ago, I saw there some plants of herbaceous Calceolarias of an ex- ceedingly fine character that were growing in a low frame heated with hot water. The specimens, nicely established in their large flowering pots, were as healthy as one could wish, and I was in- formed that the temperature in the frame was not allowed to fall below 32°, nor to rise above 40'^. Here there could be seen the advantage of growing these plants through the winter in as cool a tem- perature as possible. It is painstaking culture that has brought the plants to their high state of culti- vation, and though in 13-inch pots, there was not a symptom of damp or decay of any kind. The plants have good drainage, good soil, a low tem- perature, plenty of air and light, and they are closely looked after in the matter of cleanliness. Thus is set forth the leading principles of successful culture. Extremes of heat and cold are fatal to their well- being; sharp frost, on the one hand, or a dry, parch- ing atmosphere leave their fatal marks upon the specimens. Damp does less harm than drought, and in the majority of cases where plants fail it is mainly from being grown in too close and dry an atmosphere, or in sour, soddened, and unsuitable soil. Seed can be sown at any time between May and the end of July, and, indeed, directly it is ripe. Good cultivators tell us that June-sown seed will produce the " quickest, strongest, and most robust plants." In their book upon the "Culture of Flowers from Seeds," Messrs. Sutton and Sons give the following useful directions for sowing : — The mould, whatever be its composition, should he rich, firm, and, above all, porous. Soil that has been carefully prepared will not require water, but should it become needful to moisten it, this must be done hy dippingthepans into water. Distribute the seed eveidy, and sift over it a mere dusting of fine earth. I^laee a sheet of glass upon each pet or pan, and the glass nuist cither ho turned or wiped daily to avoid drip. This will not only check rapid evaporation, hut will prevent the attacks of vermin. (Jermination is always slower in an open tlian on a close stag»>. Perhaps the Viest possible position is a moist shady j}art of a vinery, if only care be taken wheu syringing the Vines to prevent the spray from falling upon the seed-pans. Now, some seeds germinate slowly, and mention may be made of Cyclamen persicum as a case in point, for the seeds appear through the soil at long intervals. But Calceolaria seeds are soon active ; they are through the soil in eight days or so, and when the seed is new the whole crop may be said to come at once. As soon as this happens, it is best to remove the sheet of glass, otherwise the plants may damp off. When the second leaf puts in an appearance, small as the plants are, they should be pricked off into other pots, or pans, of soil prepared to receive them. A little practice enables this to be done deftly by means of two small sticks with sharp points to them ; one is employed to lift the plant from the seed-pan, the other to place it in its new quarters. At the first pricking off, quite 2 inches should be allowed between each plant. Here a caution is necessary, and I cannot do better than give it in Messrs. Sutton and Sons' own words. They say : — There is a singular fact about Calceolarias at this stage of their gi-owth which is well worth bearing in mind. With many subjects it is a safe rule to use the robust seedlings and throw the weakly ones away. That practice will not do in the case of Cal- ceolarias, as in this way some of the more charming forms may he lost. The strongest seedlings generally produce flowers iu which yellow largely predomi- nates. But it must not he inferred that because the remainder are somewhat weaker at the outset that ultimately they will not make robust plants. The occupants of each pan may generally he pricked off in about three operations, and there should be only the shortest possible interval between. In a month from the time of potting cff, each plant should have four or five leaves, and place them singly in 2^-iDch pots. In September they should have a shift into larger pots, according to the size of the plants, and then be kept as near the light as possible in a greenhouse or frame, where plenty of light can fall upon them from the sides as well as above. They should be kept cool and perfectly clean, carefully removing all decaying foliage. Early in March the plants can go into 8-incl3 or 10-inch pots, and in these they should be flowered. Let them have well-drained pots, suitable rich soil, and careful treatment, and fine specimens will be certain to result. The Calceolaria is some- thing of a gross feeder, and will take liquid.manure, but it should never be applied until the pots are well filled with roots. If the plants are growing strongly and robustly, a rather strong dose will suit them. Many Calceolarias are spoiled by being allowed to become drawn, and then they become infested with green-fly, and the plants rapidly go to the bad. Many gardeners who grow Calceolarias describe a certain amount of commiseration when they fail, as they have to cultivate their plants under trying circumstances, in unsuitable houses, and among other subjects that overcrowd them. To do them properly and thoroughly they should have a small frame to themselves, and then success is a matter of good and careful management. R. D. Treatment of Coburg'ias. — I have a quantity of offsets of Coburgias (incarnata and fulva), and shall be glad of any information as to their treat- ment. Ought they to be repotted, and should the bulbs be dust-dry when at rest ? — S. Nisbet. *jf* Coburgias should be kept quite dry when at rest. In early spring the bulbs should be repotted into rich loamy soil and placed in the stove. Dur- ing the growing season they enjoy strong heat and a very moist atmosphere, as well as an abundant supply of water to their roots. When the leaves are mature, reduce the moisture and well expose the plants to sun and light, in order to ripen the bulbs and thus induce them to develop flowers, which are produced at the end of summer before the bulbs go to rest.— W. H. G. Bbododendron prsecox under glass. This Rhododendron flowers naturally very early in the season when in the open ground, and being, like all of its class, amenable to gentle forcing, it may be had in bloom by the early days of the year, at which time the blossoms are bright and cheerful, and remain a long time in perfection. The habit Jan. 21, 1888.J THE GARDEN. 59 of the plant is dwarf and bushy, so that neat little specimens a foot high and as much through can be readily obtained. If grown under favourable con- ditions the plants will be bristling with flower-buds, and whether forced into bloom or allowed to ex- pand naturally in the open air the flowers are so numerous as to completely cover the whole plant. This Rhododendron is the result of crossing the pretty little purple-flowered R. dahuricum, which is a native of Europe, with the Himalayan R. ciliatum. Being so early in flower, R. prrecox is, when in the open ground, very liable to have the blossoms cut off by spring frosts. The slight shelter, how- ever, afforded by neighbouring bushes will often be sufficient to protect the blossoms, which perish when exposed. — H. P. The llexican Groundsel. — This plant, for- merly called Senecio Ghiesbreghti, but now simply S. macrophyllus, on account of its large leaves, is to b3 seen at this season in many old-fashioned gar- dens, and is generally to be found in out-of-date conservatories or orangeries. Its leaves, as also the flower clusters, which consist of a multitude of yellow flower-heads, are very large. The leaves on old plants are usually on the upper part of bare stems, often G feet high, and crowning all is the great broad, flat flower cluster. For any large greenhouse or conservatory it is a most useful plant in mid- winter. A fine specimen may be seen in the temperate plant house at Kew. — W. G. Daffodils in pots. — Amongst the many beauti- ful bulbs that adorn our glasshouses in early spring, there are none so useful as the common forms of single and double Daffodils. They are so easily managed, that those who have not yet added them to their regular list of pot-grown bulbs ought to do so without delay. I prefer home-grown bulbs, and generally lift a quantity after the foliage has died down naturally in summer, and store them in a dry, cool place until September, when they are sorted out, and all the largest bulbs are picked out for potting, and the weaker ones are replanted in rows for another year. At least a dozen bulbs may be put in a 6-inch pot, and as every one may be relied on to produce flowers, they make a fine display when in bloom. If potted very early and covered with ashes they may be started into growth by Christmas, and may then be removed to a cool house or pit, and will come on rapidly. As soon as the bloom-spikes are visible they may be assisted with a little rise of temperature, but if hurried in strong heat the leaves get drawn, and they are not so handsome as when allowed to come on more naturally. When In bloom they make striking effects in groups in the conservatory, or for filling vases for indoor decoration. For cutting from, the bulbs can be planted in boxes, and after the crop of flowers is gathered the boxes may be sheltered in a cold house until the season is sufliciently advanced to allow of their being planted out to mature their growth. — J. G. Young Camellias. — "Cambrian" at p. C0(! of the last volume of The Garden gives excellent advice on the subject of cutting Camellia blooms. Doubtless many young, thrifty plants have been seriously checked by the reckless cutting of the flowers. It appears to me, however, that young Camellias should never be allowed to undergo this bad practice. They ought never to be allowed to bloom until they are of fairly large dimensions. I much doubt if Camellias in their natural home bloom in a small state. We all know what a seed- ling fruit tree does ; it grows rapidly for some years before it bears any fruit. A crop in the early youth of any fruit tree would be dearly paid for later on. In the same way, though in a modified degree, the few blooms that are allowed to come on a young Camellia retard its progress. The use of the Camellia is to adorn conservatories where plants of fairly large dimensions are required, and to furnish cut blooms. It has not the same value in small pots that most flowering plants have; conse- quently the object of the cultivator is to increase the dimensions of his plants as rapidly as possible. It would surprise many to see the difference in the growth made by young plants that have teen disbudded in the autumn and those that have been allowed to bloom. By starting the plants early in the year, keeping up a brisk growing temperature through the spring, and pinching out the extreme points of the shoots when they show a tendency to form buds, it is possible to get a double growth out of Camellias every year. By this express method good-sized specimens can be had in less than half the time it would take to get them if the flowering is allowed to take place. — J. C. B. CROTON LEAVES. In almost all floral arrangements foliage is now ex- tensively used, and for this purpose well-coloured Croton leaves are especially valuable, the bright and variously tinted variegation of the different sorts producing a very effective display with the use of comparatively few flowers. To obtain highly-coloured leaves, it is essential that the plants should be grown in a high tempera- ture and fully exposed to the sun. It may perhaps be necessary to shade the plants lightly during the hottest part of the day in the summer, but the lighter the shading the better. Plants grown in a shady position never attain the bright tints that are produced on plants that have been fully exposed to the sun, and many of the sorts lose their variega- tion entirely when not properly treated. Another matter of importance is that the compost they are grown in should not be too rich ; light sandy soil should be used for potting, and although plants confined to small pots will be better for a little stimulant when making their growth, manure water should be used sparingly. Soot water is a good stimulant for Crotons. The following are a few of the best sorts to grow for foliage, but the varieties are so numerous and vary so much under different treatment, that it is difficult to decide which are the most meritorious, and so confine the list within reasonable limits. Several of the old sorts may still be grown in pre- ference to the newer ones, as they are more constant in their variegation: C. majesticus, for instance, is one of the best, the long, narrow leaves, which when well matured change to a bright crimson hue, being very effective; C. Queen Victoria is another good old sort ; C. undulatus, though a little inclined to get leggy as a pot plant, is one of the best for the purpose for which this selection is made ; C. Disraeli, when well done is a useful form and very distinct ; C. Warreni, C. Youngi, C. Massangeanus, C. Lady Zetland, C. Sunset, C. Rodeokianus, and C. Prince of Wales are all useful sorts in which the older leaves change to various shades of colouring. Of sorts which retain the yellow variegation in the old leaves, C. Weismanni is one of the best. C. Countess is a very pretty variety with narrow leaves, which are beautifully spotted and flaked with yellow. This variety makes a very pretty table plant. C. Johannis, C. hastiferus, and C. Mooreanus are useful ; and last, though not the least of the list, is C. angustifolius. A. The Scented White Freesia (F. refracta alba) is at the present time the most noteworthy feature in the greenhouse (No. 4) at Kew. (.)n one of the side stages there are a score or more plants uncommonly well grown and profusely flowered, and their delightful fragrance, much like that of Violets, but pleasanter if possible, fills the whole house. The plants are arranged in one bold group by themselves, and the contrast of the deep green grassy foliage with the spikes of large tubular flowers of snowy whiteness has a charming effect. We do not remember seeing the White Freesia grown and flowered so well in mid-winter before, all the plants being of sturdy growth and carrying as many as live or six flowers on every spike. It is an easily-grown bulb it attention is given to one or two essential points. In order to get bulbs to flower at this season, they must be potted about August, putting half a dozen plump bulbs in a G-inch pot, and using a soil composed of good loam, with sufficient peat and sand to keep it open. The bulbs may be kept in a light, well-ventilated frame, 3r(d no wa|;er must be given until they start into growth. When the foliage is well developed, weak manure water can be given, the object being to get a strong growth before winter sets in. Like most Cape bulbs, Freesias much dislike artificial heat and must have plenty of light and air, otherwise the growths become drawn and weakly. By potting bulbs at intervals till late autumn a continuous succession of flowering plants can be had through- out the spring. Seeing what a beautiful plant this is, and how cheaply it may now be bought, the wonder is that it is not more common. — Q. THE CINERARIA. Those who have an opportunity of reading the garden literature of the last fifty years may well trace the rise and progress of this popular green- house plant. It seems to have been produced from a reddish purple-flowered species, C. cruenta, introduced from the Canary Islands about the year 1777. The original species was in the hands of Messrs. Cannell, of Swanley, a few years ago, and they may probably have plants of it at the present time. The first coloured plate of a garden variety that I can find is in the FloricnUurol Cabinet for the year 1810. The description of the plant is very meagre, the raiser's name not even being given, but it is stated to be " a most desirable variety, well worth cultivating." The flowers are evidently the natural size, IJ inches across; the florets narrow, and wide apart at the tips. During the next ten years many good cultivators and raisers of new varieties bad greatly improved the Cineraria. The flowers were not so large, but the florets were much improved in form, and a coloured plate in The Florist in the year IS.'iU shows how much had been done in the improvement of form and variety of colour ; in fact, it was at that time the most popular of greenhouse plants, as I can well re- member, for it was at the commencement of my gardening career. The editor of The. Florist writing in that year says : — But it is not in form alone that the Cineraria has been improved. On account of the different sorts hybridising freely with each other, the most extxuisite colours that it is possible to conceive have been obtained. At that time every really good seedling raised was propagated and sent out under name. The seed firms of those days had not given their attention to the careful saving of seeds from the best varie- ties. The propagation of the named varieties was a part of the gardener's duties periodically, and long lists of named varieties carefully described appeared in the trade lists. The propagation of the plants from offsets is easy enough. It has to be done in the summer months, a shady position in the garden being the most suitable. 'The offsets can be taken off with a small portion of the roots attached, each to be planted in small pots, using fine sandy soil, leaf-mould, loam, and sharp sand in eijual portions. Place the pots close together in a frame or handlights. When well established admit air freely, potting the plants on as they require it. 1 grow them in frames in an open position when they are established, but the back of the frame is to the south. The glass lights are removed in fine weather. On hot days, with a drying wind, I would rather have the lights over the plants, well tilted against the wind, and shaded with light tiffany or some similar material. When cold, damp weather sets in, about the end of September or early in October, the plants must be removed to a heated pit or greenhouse. They grow quite as freely as seedlings and form as good plants. Seeds may be sown any time during the spring and summer months ; the plants speedily appear above ground, and when large enough may be pricked out and potted on as they increase in size. The largest plants are allowed to flower in S-inoh pots, and they make handsome specimens for exhi- bition purposes, as size always counts, although it does not supersede quality of the flowers, nor a per- fectly healthy state of the plants. The leaves are very easily bruised or broken, and some growers are not careful enough when moving the plants or when watering them. A plant fit to take the highest 60 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. honours at an exhibition should be perfect in leaf and flower. A still more frequent cause of dis- figurement arises from the plants being attacked by green fly, or that more troublesome parasite, mildew ; in fact, the last is by far the most difficult to deal with. It has been very troublesome in our house this year, and frequent dustings of flowers of sul- phur have not altogether prevented some of the best plants from being rendered rather unsightly by it. Tobacco smoke effectually destroys the green fly. Thrips get upon the leaves during sum- mer, and their traces are soon seen. Fumigating will also destroy these, but the plants may also be dipped in tobacco water ; this last is the most effec- tive cure for thrips, but it is not so cleanly. The Cineraria likes a rich compost, but a too vigorous growth is not altogether desirable. Four parts of good loam, one of leaf-mould, one of de- cayed manure, and a little sand will be found a very suitable compost. Of course there are many details of culture that can only be mastered by careful observation. Amongst them may be named the manner of potting, the quantity of water to be applied, the ventilation, and shading of the house. A'entilation is very important indeed, as drying winds exhaust the energies of the leaves to an alarming extent, causing them to droop and hang limp over the sides of the pots. To avoid this, sprinkle the paths of the house, and rather shade lightly than admit too much air. The same effect is sometimes produced by over-heating the pipes in severe frosty weather, but this, like the other, may be [mitigated by a judicious use of the water-pot, and being careful not to apply more heat than may be absolutely necessary to prevent the plants from being injured. Our house, which is 50 feet long and quite filled with these plants alone, is in an exposed position, but the temperature at night does not rise much higher than 40"^ nor fall below 35" during frosty weather. Useful flowering plants may be grown in 6-inch and 7-inch pots, and the plants of that size require no training or tying of any kind. The larger plants must be tied out in order that a weU-formed head of bloom may be produced. When the plants, whatever their size, have quite filled their allotted root space, the use of manure water is desirable, but it should be weak and not be used too often. I have seen the plants quite spoiled by too much sheep manure being used in the water, while frequent applications of soot water will also kill the roots. Many years ago I learned a lesson which will never be forgotten. I watched a splendid lot of exhibition plants gradually decline; parts of the plants died off, and before the day on which they were required they presented a miserable spectacle, and all brought about by too heavy applications of manure water. J. Douglas. WORK IN PLANT HOUSES. INDIA-EUBBEK PLANT (Ficus elastica). — This plant will stand for a long time in halls and rooms that would be too dark for most things. It looks best when confined to a single stem. To keep up a sufficient stock, cuttings should be struck from time to time. Tops of last summer's shoots taken off now with about four leaves to each will answer well. Kemove the lowest leaf, cutting the base even at the joint; put each cutting in a 4-inch pot, which should be well crocked, and half fill it with a mixture of peat and sand, or loam and sand, the top all sand ; press the material firm, and give some water. If covered with propagating glasses or confined in a striking frame they will soon root it they can have a brisk heat. If bottorh-heat can be given they will strike more quickly. The plants, from which the tops are removed, if kept in heat, will soon plump up the dormant eyes imme- diately below where the cuttings are taken. When these eyes are prominent and just before they have commenced growth, they should be taken off with the leaf attached and put in small pots. Treated in the way recommended for the other cuttings they will form roots and make top growth. These . single-eye cuttings do not attain a useful size so quickly as those taken from the leading shoots. The new golden-variegated form of this Fious de- serves cultivation, for not only does it afford a nice contrast to the green-leaved sort, but it is a hand- some plant in itself. The treatment under which the type succeeds wiU answer for the variegated variety. WiNTER-BLOOMINO CABNATIONS.— SEED SOW- ING.— Though it is not advisable for those who re- quire a supply of Carnations all the year round to rely altogether on seedlings, there is this peculiarity about seedlings of the perpetual kinds that is worth taking into account. When the plants are well grown and strong enough few of them will fail to flower the first winter, although in all probability most of them will not prove perpetual bloomers. There is also much interest attached to seedlings when the strain is good, as there is then a chance of obtaining some that are better than existing va- rieties. The first flowers produced by seedlings when the plants are strong are generally larger than those borne by plants which have been raised from cuttings. This is an advantage in winter when the flowers are generally small. To enable seedlings to bloom well in winter the plants must be raised early enough. The seed should be sown not later than the end of the old year or the beginning of the new; consequently no time should now be lost. Ordinary seed pans or shallow boxes will answer for the purpose. These should be drained and filled with sifted loam, to which add some sand ; press the surface sufficiently to make it smooth, and put the seeds an inch or so apart. Cover them lightly with a little of the soil, and stand the pots or boxes in a house or pit where there is a little warmth, being careful that too much heat is not used, or the plants will come up weak. Keep the soil slightly moist, but not wet. As soon as the seedlings appear they should be put close to the roof in the lightest place the house affords. This is im- portant, otherwise they will become dravm. Great care should be taken that the seed is true, as in this section of Carnations, unless the strain is right, all the attention given to the plants is labour thrown away. Petunias. — Plants of the double varieties of Petunia and also of any single sorts that are worth retaining, and that were cut in after they had flowered in autumn, will have made enough new growth to admit of their being repotted. Turn them out of the pots and remove as much of the old soil as possible without disturbing the roots too much. Give pots a size or two larger ; good fresh loam, to which has been added rotten manure and leaf-mould, with some sand, forms a suit- able compost. Pot moderately firm, and imme- diately they are potted the shoots should be tied well out. If wanted to bloom early in the spring the plants should be kept where they can have a few degrees more warmth than in a cool greenhouse. In the case of quick-growing things like Petunias, to have the plants sufficiently strong and bushy to ensure their flowering well, they must have plenty of light all through the winter and spring. The single varieties are especially adapted for hanging baskets, the display of bloom they make being little inferior to that of Achimenes when used in the same way ; whilst Petunias continue much longer in flower. Young plants struck from cut- tings at the end of the summer should be moved into larger pots as soon as the soil is fairly filled with roots. They wiU bear putting into pots two sizes larger than those they now occupy. The points of the shoots should be pinched out to in duce them to break near the bottom. The double varieties of Petunia, especially the white kinds, are very useful for cutting, as the flowers can not only be arranged well with others of a less massive chararcter, but they last longer. Petunias prom seed, — The seed may be sown any time during the winter, but it put in now the seedlings will necessarily more quickly reach a size that will enable them to flower freely. Sow the seeds thinly, and only just cover them with a little of the finest soil. Press the surface slightly, by which means the material will retain moisture longer. It is better in all cases to give as little w^ter (18 possible before the 6ee4 vegetates. Sta,pd. the seed in a little warmth, and keep the seedlings from the time they appear, in a similar temperature, untU there is enough sun-heat to help them to grow freely. In raising seedlings of Petunias, as of most other things, soil that is of a light open nature should be used, as when the little plants are re- moved there will be no serious breakage of their roots. Sifted leaf-mould is one of the best things that can be used with the loam, as it helps to keep it open, and the roots of most soft-wooded subjects have a peculiar liking for it. Another matter con- nected with raising seedlings, especially of quick- growing things, is to sow thinly, for if the seedlings are at all crowded before they are large enough to prick off, they get more or less drawn, even when exposed to all the light possible ; and, in addition, their roots become so entangled, that it is not pos- sible to separate them without injury. Tuberous Begonias. — To get tuberous Begonias large enough to give the full quantity of flowers they are able to, the seed should be put in early in the year. Some growers like loam better than peat for raising seedlings of Begonias. I find the loam answerswell, especially when some sifted leaf -mould and a little sand are mixed with it. Sow in pans or boxes ; do not put the seeds in too thickly, though it is not necessary to allow so much room as required by some things, as they need pricking off before the roots have had time to extend much. Stand the seed-pan in a temperture of 55° or 60°, and give plenty of light from the time the little plants appear. Lapaqbeias. — The best time for potting Lapa- gerias depends on the temperature to which the plants are subjected. No more heat is necessary for them than is sufficient to keep out frost, but it often happens that they are grown in houses where there are other things that require a little more warmth, in which case the potting should be carried out before the strong shoots that spring from the base have moved much, as they are liable to get injured. If the growths in question are much interfered with they seldom make satisfactory progress afterwards. Where the plants are kept quite cool, potting may be deferred for some weeks, but where, as I have instanced, they are kept warmer, it will be safer to pot at once. When the plants have attained considerable size, wide boxes or tubs are better than pots. Whichever are used the drainage must be ample, as though Lapagerias are moisture-loving subjects, there must be means for the water to pass away freely or the roots will soon get into an unhealthy state, from which the plants seldom recover. Lapagerias will grow in either loam or peat. Where the latter can be had of good quality I should give it the preference, but unless the peat contains plenty of vegetable fibre it is better to use turfy loam. Add sufficient sand to keep the soil open ; for large specimens the soil should be in a more lumpy state. In potting, make the material moderately firm, but not so solid as some things require. After potting give less water until the growth begins to move, but even when at rest Lapagerias must never be allowed to get so dry as necessary for many things. If any insects, such as scale, are present, advantage should be taken of the absence of soft, tender growth to give the plants a thorough cleaning. The shoots and leaves should be well sponged with insecticide, and the whole well washed afterwards with the syringe. T. B. Evils of deep planting.— Very few things really thrive when the soil surrounds the stem above what is termed the collar of the plant. Soft- wooded plants, such as the Balsam, that are capable of throwing out roots from the buried stem, do not appear to mind this much ; but even with the Bal- sam burying the stem has a dwarfing effect. Sooner or later, also, hard-wooded plants and trees die if their main stems are covered, even if the covering does not exceed a few inches in depth. Some years ago I was in a conservatory where many of the principal plants in the borders appeared to be losing health in a most unaccountable way. Inves- tigation proved that the plants were buried in the &o^l of t$e bp;rd^r^ ipore than was good for them, Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 61 and it happened in this way : The conservatory was a comparatively new structure, and the borders had been a few years before newly made, and of the best soil attainable. But the fact that the borders had settled had been overlooked, and the frequent top-dressings to make up the border had buried the stems of the Camellias too deeply. The plants were being slowly killed, but the discovery was fortu- nately made in time, and lifting brought them back to health again. This is the season for planting fruit trees, and it generally happens that the soil, having been recently trenched, has not had time to consolidate. When the trees are planted in this loose soil the collars are almost certain to sink too low. Who can say how many of the scrubby-look- ing, prematurely-aged trees owe their decrepit con- dition to deep planting ? When planting trees in recently-moved soil, tread it down firmly beneath the roots. And if there is the slightest reason to suspect any injury from this cause, lift the trees and replant ; in fact, it is a good plan to lift and replant all young fruit trees about four or five years after planting. This secures the proper placing of the collar. Burying the trunks of trees in making alterations is not an uncommon occurrence. I suppose that there is no person of experience in the management of gardens but can call to mind many Instances where valuable trees have been destroyed by placing earth around their stems. If this should ever be necessary, a brick wall should be built to sustain the earth far enough from the trunk to allow for growth. The top may be fitted with a wooden grating to permit of a free circulation of air. — E. H., in Field. Propagating. Primula Sieboldi. — There are now a great num- ber of pretty and distinct varieties of this Primula, and as they can aU be propagated by means of root cuttings, I employ this method for the increase of the newer kinds. Where there are large masses or clumps of any variety they can be readily increased by division, but with smaller plants this cannot, oj course, be carried out to any extent ; therefore cuttings of the roots are necessary for their rapid propagation. This is the very best time of the year for taking the cuttings, and the method we follow is to turn the plants out of their pots and shake off all the soil, which is not a difficult matter, as this Primula does not form a dense mass of roots. Then it will be found that the flowering crown is situated on the end of a rhizome, from whence the roots descend into the soil. A few of the roots from the end of the rhizome farthest removed from the crown can always be spared without injuring the future dis- play of bloom, and, of course, as far as possible, the thickest ones should be chosen. They should be cut up into lengths of about an inch, care being taken when laying them down that they are not mixed, as it will otherwise be difficult in some cases to distinguish between the upper and the lower parts of the roots. Meanwhile the pots or pans are prepared for their reception by thoroughly draining them with broken crocks and filling with a light sandy soil such as is used for various soft- wooded cuttings. Some of the rougher particles of soil that will not pass through the sieve may be placed immediately over the crocks before the finer soil is put OQ. The pots or pans should be filled almost to the rim with the prepared compost, which must not be pressed down firmly, as if just shaken into its place the cuttings can be inserted by simply pressing them into the soil. The cuttings must be put in perpendicularly, and at such a depth that the upper part is just level with the surface of the soil, and as that is some distance below the rim, a little dry silver sand may be spread over the top to form a layer not more than a quarter of an inch thick. The work is then complete, except a good watering through a fine-rosed pot. This will cause the sand to settle down in one unbroken mass, when the pots may be placed in a frame, or in some such a position till the young plants make their appearance. This will not be long, for in the spring little clusters of leaves will push through the sand, and when the earliest are fairly developed the plants may be either potted off or planted in a bed prepared for their reception. If the bed is sheltered by an ordinary garden frame, so much the better, as the young plants make more rapid progress when protected in this way during their earlier stages. Of course, after the cuttings are put in and before they commence to grow, the frame must be kept close, and the soil must also be watered when neces- sary. T. Orchids. W. H. GOWEB. ANGRxECUM CAUDATUM. The subject of our present illustration, en- graved from a photograph sent by Major C. H. Fisher, The Castle, Stroud, Gloucester, is a as the roots enjoy full exposure to light and air. The leaves, nearly a foot long, strap- shaped, and arranged in a two-ranked fashion, are tliin in texture and light green. The scape is pendulous, longer than the leaves, and bears from four to five flowers. Mr. Wil- liams, in the " Orchid Grower's Manual," says, "it sometimes bears twelve flowers," but I have never grown it so fine. The sepals and petals are greenish-yellow ; the lip is obovate, terminating in a long, ivory-white jjoint, spur 8 inches or 9 inches long, olive-green, shaded with chocolate. Its usual time of flowering is during summer and early autumn. By some this is considered a shy-flowering plant, but for some eight or nine years in succession the plant flowered with me, the latter part of the time producing two spikes each season. This species was growing in the collection of the Messrs. Loddiges fifty years ago. Angrsecum oaudatum. native of Western Africa, about Sierra Leone and Senegal. It was amongst the earliest of this Senus to arrive in this country in a living state, having been introduced upwards of fifty years ago, and yet to this day it remains a scarce plant, and is seldom seen in collections. This is the more remarkable, as the genus has become extremely popular of late years, and numbers of new and showy species have been introduced to cultivation, so that the remark of an old writer, " the species are, for the most part, small flosvered, and little better than weeds," is not applicable at the present time. This plant is an epiphyte, and thrives upon a good-sized block of wood or in a hanging basket, although it is sometimes grown in a pot ; but this latter plan I do not advocate, An effective group of Masdeval- lias. — I was much struck with a bit of colour exhibited by a few members of the above-named genus which I recently saw at Mr. Measures', The Woodlands, Streatham. Conspicuous was a fine form of M. ignea, with its cinnabar-red flowers, veined with lines of crimson. M. Davisi has numerous canary-yellow flowers, which are large for this species. Associated with these were a superb form of M. Harryana, with large flowers of a deep blood-crimson hue ; M. Liudeni, with bright magenta-purple flow- ers ; and the brilliant M. Veitchi. In front of these stood a fine plant of M. polysticta, with twelve spikes of flowers borne well up above the foliage, the combination being exquisite. I may add that above these hung numerous baskets full of M. Chimsra and M. bella, their large and curious flowers hanging down and adding considerably to the general effect. These plants are all grown as cool as possible, and they produce about three crops of flowers in the season, the intervals between each crop, however being filled in by casual flowers, so that I think I may safely say the Masdevallia house has never been devoid of flowers during the past twelve months. — W. H. G. Leelia praestans is one of the gems of the Orchid house at this season, and, to use a trite phrase, no collection should be without it. It is one of those Orchids that does not take up much room, and can be grown without difficulty in an interme- diate, or indeed a cool house, as, being a Brazilian mountain plant, it does not re- quire a high temperature. It has tiny bulbs and evergreen leaves, and, compared with the size of the whole plant, the flowers are very large, being as much as 4 inches .v*» .;.!!. across. The sepals and petals, being broad, overlap and spread out so as to make a flat, symmetrical flower, the colour being a bright rose. The lip is circular in outline, of a splendid purple-crimson, with an edging of white, much resembling in this respect Cattleya marginata. This describes one of the finest varieties I have seen, and this is now in bloom in the St. Albans Orchid Nursery side by side with other dwarf LiElias and Cattleyas, such as L. Dayana, L. pumila, and others, all of which are grown on suspended blocks in a light cool house where Odontoglossums thrive. Some of these were in flower, but are not so beautiful as L. pra3stans. — Q. Catasetums. — With the advent of C. Bange- rothi, these plants appear to be regaining their lost popularity. Some few years ago I grew upwards of twenty distinct kinds, and there is ample ma- terial in this genus for amateurs to indulge their fancy, both for novel combinations of colours and grotesque and fantastic forms. Quite recently I recognised an old acquaintance, which I took to be 62 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. Catasetum atratum, floweriDs; with Mr. White, of Winchmore Hill ; the sepals and petals are spread- ing, the ground colour being dull green banded with brownish purple; lip open, yellowish green, and more or less spotted with brown. It is a native of Brazil. These plants are not diflicult to grow, enjoying an abundance of sun and light and an ample supply of water when forming their pseudo- bulbs. During the resting season only enough water should be given to prevent the bulbs shrivel- ling.—W. H. G. MOTH ORCHIDS (PHAL.^NOPSIDS) AT HEATON HOUSE, CHESHUNT. When I first saw, and made a few remarks upon these plants, some fourteen months ago, sceptics ridiculed my statement?, professed to know that the plants had only been forced into abnormal growth, and prophesied that they would melt away like snow before the summer's sun, &c. 1 was, therefore, much pleased to visit them again and to find growth as luxuriant a? before ; and I have to report them as being in more vigorous health and flowering more freely than when I saw them last ; and I now challenge contradiction by saying that they are the finest lot of Pha^tnopsids in the country. I liave been acquainted wiih the majority of the best Orchid collections which have existed in the three kingdoms for some years past, and 1 can safely say I never saw Phalienopsids like these. I admit having seen isolated examples perhaps as tine (never better), but I have never seen so many of them in such remarkable vigour as are to found in Mr. Partington's garden at Cheshunt, and those who still doubt should go and see for themselves ; they will well repay a journey from the furthermost part of the three kingdoms. They will find Mr. Searing quite willing to show them, and to tell them all the details of his management, and the means he has adopted to achieve his great success in the cultivation of these gems of the Orchid flora. The Piralieuopsids at Mr. Partington's are grown in a lean-to house by themselves, saving some plants of Ficus stipularis which cover the back wall ; the large ones stand upon the front and side stages ; the smaller ones are growing in baskets suspended from the roof over the centre of the house, the middle of the house being entirely open, and the floor comiio.?ed of shingle, which is always kept moist, the same material covering the isfages. That these plants are not forced into an un- natural growth may be understood when 1 say that the night temperature during winter rarely exceeds CO", and during the day it rises some 5^ or 8° by artihcial means. On the day of my visit the sun was shining brightly and full upon the plants, and the glass stood at 70° at nooD, Init the hot- water pipes were nearly cold. There was a free circulation of air, and I believe tbis is iiiaintaiiieil throughout the wliole season bjth by day and night. The collection numbers about l(iO plants ; enme few of tliem arc small, recently iinpoited one.=, but the majority (say considerably over 100) are hirge specimens, with erect stems, in some instances from H inches to 10 inches high, Leaiing fnjiii six totilteen leaves of enormous fixe. It may be mtiitinned that some of tlie jilants have not lost a leaf for five or six year.<; now and tlien a leaf at the base will decay, but thi^ is quit-; excejitional. The kinds grown are P. Schilleriana, Stuartiana, Stuarli- ana nobilis, grandiflora (Java variety), grandi- flora (Burnean variety), amabilis, speciosa, vio- lacea, Luddemanniana, casta, Sanderiaiia, E^meraldi, and antenniferi At the time of my visit there Wdre about 300 flowers expanded ; many spikes had been cut for the decoration of the rooms in the house, and many other siiikes were not full size, but the whole formed a per- fectly unique exhibition of chaste beauty. Amongst the most notable plants in the collec- tion were first a fine P. amabilis, 9 inches high, bearing fifteen leaves, the more recent of which were upwards of a foot long and 3'- inches across, stout and leathery in texture, and rich deep green ; the flowers of this specimen were past when I saw it, but it still showed the remains of two stout spikes, which, I was told (and I do not doubt the assertion), had borne upwards of sixty flowers. Another remarkable plant of amabilis stood over 8 inches high, bearing fourteen large leaves, but its llowers were also over, whilst there were numerous splendid examples bearing six and eight leaves of remarkable vigour. Of P. grandiflora there were numerous extraordinary specimens, the dimensions of a few being worthy of record ; thus one plant of the Bornean variety has eight leaves, each of which is upwards of a foot long and i^ inches wide; the spike is 3 feet 6 inches long, and has three lateral branches. At present there are only twenty flowers open upon it, but these are over 3 inches across. Another plant of grandiflora, the Java variety, is bearing fourteen leaves, each a foot long and 3 inches wide. Most of the flowers on this plant are still in the bud, sixteen only being expanded ; these are :ih inches in diameter, but the spike is 3 feet long and just beginning to branch, so that it bids fair to become very grand. Another plant of grandiflora exhibits a curious freak; it is bearing fourteen leaves as large as those previously mentioned, and this season, in addition to the axillary spike, it also threw up a spike from the centre of the growth (terminal) which bore forty flowers ; this, of course, terminates its upward career in a direct line. The plant is still in vigorous health, and is evidently beginning to push out lateral growth. P. speciosa is represented by plants with seven and eight leaves, each a foot in length and 3J inches across. P. violacea is represented by plants bearing twelve leaves, each a foot long and 5 inches over. Plants of P. Schilleriana have seven and eight leaves, each upwards of a foot long and (> inches wide, one plant bearing a spike 3 feet long, which has eighteen branches and about seventy flowers; there are numerous similar examples. P. casta and P. San- deriana are represented by fine healthy plants and of good varieties, the latter especially so. But I think the greatest praise is due to Mr. Searing for two remarkable specimens of P. Stuartiana, which, as far as my experience goes, is not in a usual way by any means an easy kind to grow. In this collec- tion these plants are truly grand ; the best of the two carries eight leaves, each 14 inches long and 4 inches wide, and a spike of bloom considerably over 3 feet in length, with eight lateral branches and sixty-three flowers ; whilst another plant carries eight similar leaves and spike. The great success which has been arrived at in the management of these Phalienopsids is evidently due to not over- stimulating them by excessive fire-heat ; by the admission of free air liberally, while, at the same time, ensuring a sufficiency of moisture to counter- act any over-dryness ; and by allowing the roots to ramble freely instead of confining them. The plants in question have masses of roots, most of them hard and wiry, but there is no attempt to confine them, and even some of the largest specimens have scarcely more than a handful of Sphagnum about them. No spikes are allowed to remain on the plants for a second year, as they are considered to be very weakening to the plants without affordine any ade- quate return. W. H. G. Odcntoglossum cirrhosum. — I have received flowers of this species to name from no less than three parts of the country during this foggy week, one person sending me a large sjiike, which I antici- pate will last in its cut state for several weeks, while all the senders ask for cultural instructions. 1 am rather surprised to find this beautiful plant so much neglected ; it is only a few years ago since it was first inlrodueed in a living state, if 1 mistake not, by Mr. Wm. Bull, of Chelsea, when it caused quite a sensation in the Orchid world. Soon after its first introduction, however, the importation of | vast quantities so reduced its value, that several thousands of established plants which I had at that time were unsaleable at the low price of 33. each. It quite surprises me what can have become of all the plants that were in the country a few years ago, because it is by no means ditBcult to manage ; on the contrary, I have found it one of the easiest to establish and one of the earliest of all the Odon- toglossums to bloom after its importation. Then why has it become so scarce, for scarce it must be, or it would be more often seen in flower .' Who at the present time possesses large specimens of this plant! And yet it must ever rank as one of the most elegant species in a large genus remarkable for beauty. O. cirrhosum usually flowers during the months of April and May. It was discovered years ago growing in the valley of Mindo, which is in the mountains of Ecuador, at an elevation of about GOOO feet, so that it may well be Imagined very little artificial heat is required in its cultivation; indeed, I have found it grow vigorously and flower luxuriantly side by side with 0. Alexandrse.^H. G. DENDROBIUM BIGIBBUM. In my earlier days amongst Orchids this was a very scarce plant, and it appeared to be as difli- cult to manage as it was to obtain. Since that time, however, large quantities have been im- ported from some islands in Torres Straits, which appear to be of a superior form and more easily grown than the earlier introduced plants which came from North Australia. I recently noted numerous ex- amples of this beautiful plant flowering in the Messrs. Veitch's nursery at Chelsea, and also with Mr. Williams at Holloway, and it is hardly possible to imagine a Inore elegant subject for cut flowers. It is an erect-growing plant, the pseudo-bulbs being stout, from 1 foot to 2 feet in height, and bearing near the apex four or five oblong-lanceolate leaves. The spike issues from the top of the growth, and also from the axils of the leaves, as well as from the old leafless bulbs, the raceme being nearly a foot long, bearing from six to twelve large flowers, about half of which open at. the same time, and as the spikes are freely produced they make a grand display, and the blooms last in full beauty for many weeks. The sepals and petals are rich rosy- purple, the latter, round and full, being much the largest ; lip three-lobed, the side lobes erect, in- curved, the middle lobe slightly reflexed, the whole rich crimson-purple, conspicuously veined with a deeper shade of the same hue, the disc ornamented with a white warty crest. In my MS. notes I have a record of a white-flowered form which bloomed in Mr. Williams' nursery about the year ISiI!) or 1870, but I have never heard of the reappearance of a white variety. The plant in question was a very weak one, and the flowers were small, but they were the exact counterpart of the normal form, except in colour. There can be little doubt (hat a variety with white flowers, equal in size to those of the typical plant, would be highly appreciated, and be eagerly sought after. This plant requires an abundance of light, heat, and moisture, but it should be shaded from the fierce rajs of the mid- day sun. A temperature of 70" to 85°, or even more, by sunheat should be maintained during the grow- ing season, at which time an abundant supply of moisture to the roots and overhead with the syringe is absolutely necessary to its well-being ; during winter, however, the heat may be reduced to about 0(1° to 65°, and very little water will suffice. Pot culture suits this plant best, and the soil should consist of rough, fibry peat and Sphagnum Moss, well drained. The soil should be made very firm. W. H. G. Broughtonia sanguinea. — This charming plant, which I saw last autumn in Mr. Williams' nursery at Holloway, and more recently in Mr. I'artington's garden at Cheshunt, is well deserving of more attention than is usually accorded it by Orchid growers. It must be admitted that the plant has proved somewhat diflicult to manage, or perhaps the majority of cultivators have not studied its natural requirements. It is a native of Jamaica, Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 63 where it is said to be plentifal, and is usually found growing upon bare rocks in the full sunshine near the coast, and also upon the stems of the Silk- Cotton tree. Under cultivation I have had it grow well and flower regularly with special attention, and its lovely flowers amply compensate for any extra labour. My experience was that the plant dwindled away when subjected to shade, so I fastened the mass upon a large block of wood with but a trifling bit of Sphagnum, and hung it near the glass in such a position that it would get plenty of air and full exposure to the sun all day long. Every morn- ing during the summer the block was taken down and soaked in a tub of water, and again upon extra hot days about the middle of the afternoon. This extra attention was given because I felt determined, if possible, to solve the mystery surrounding its management, and under this treatment the plant thrived. It threw out a quantity of roots, which ad- hered to the wood, and appeared to like to be bare and untrammelled with soil. In winter the plant still occupied the same position, but less air was admitted, and the block was only taken down and dipped (not soaked) once in each week. The second year of this treatment the plant bloomed from the home-made growths, and from that time flowered annually until it passed out of my hands. The plant would appear to be nearly related to Lselia ; indeed, the genus is included with Epidendrum by Reichenbach. It is a dwarf, compact-growing plant with clustered, ovate,angularly-ribbed pseudo-bulbs, which bear one, or sometimes two, linear-oblong, leathery, deep green leaves: spike terminal, bearing near the summit a raceme of from six to twelve flowers, which are spreading, about IMnches across, and bright reddish crimson in colour. It usually blooms towards the end of summer, and lasts a con- siderable time in full beauty. — W. H. G. ORCHID FL0WER3. From Mr. Buchan, Wilton House, Southampton, comes a box of lovely Orchid blooms, which during this week of fog are truly refreshing. The flowers consist of Dendrobes, Masdevallias, Odontoglossums, Oncidiums, Cypripediums, Lycastes, &c. In Mr. Buchan's collection of alpine Orchids are some grand examples of Odontoglossums and Oncidiums, perhaps, in some instances, the finest in the country, and they are grown with very little artificial heat at any season ; whilst such plants as Aerides and Vandas are treated to such a low temperature, that many growers would consider it absolutely ruinous. I am glad to find that the cool system is fast ob- taining converts, for I claim for it, when applied rationally, at least three advantages, viz., less ex- pense in the culture of the plants, improved health and more vigorous growth, and a condition of the atmosphere in the houses which allows anyone, however delicate, to enjoy the flowers without the slightest inconvenience. Amongst these flowers are some specially notable- I find a large and very richly-coloured form of Den- drobium bigibbum, which more than bears out my remarks upon this species sent you recently, and a fine variety of D. heterocarpum (more correctly, perhaps, D. aureum), the flowers, which emit a grateful odour of ^'ioIets, measuring upwards of 3 inches across, the sepals and petals being bright primrose-yellow. These two Dendrobes should find a place in every collection, and require to be grown in the warmest house. A curious form of Lycaste Skinneri, in which the rich crimson of the lip is ex- tended to the lower half of each lateral sepal, is also included. Mr. Buchan says all the flowers are simi- larly marked, and that the freak is constant. It makes a greater displa,y of colour, but I do not think it adds to the beauty of the flower. A handsome and regularly blotched and spotted form of Odontoglos- sum Alexandrie; the delicate and pretty O. (Erstedi, with its pure white fragrant flowers, which are faintly stained with lemon at the base of the lip, and dotted with crimson ; two distinct and pretty varieties of O. ramosissimum, a plant too seldom seen in collec- tions ; the flowers, borne upon a much-branched scape, are numerous, the sepals and petals being pure shining white, profusely dotted with crimson ; lip small and purplish violet at the base. The other form is less distinctly spotted, and the lip is wholly white, saving a few scattered dots of crim- son ; this species is showy, well adapted for cutting, and is a winter bloomer, which should cause it to find more admirers. A form of the charming O. Pescatorei, having the flowers clear white, saving jast a suspicion of blush in the sepals, and a re- markably brilliant crimson form of Masdevallia amabilis were the most noteworthy in this hand- some gathering. W. H. G. PREPARING FOR DROUGHT. DuEiXG the past three seasons we have suft'ered more or less from the effects of drought, but the year just gone was especially disastrous to garden and field crops by reason of the soil being very dry when the summer commenced, a prevalence of dry harsh winds in spring having robbed the land of its moisture to a considerable depth. Consequently, directly the sun's rays became powerful, crops began to suffer, and as we did not get sufficient rain to benefit the roots until September, the effects are still plainly visible, not only in gardens, but in hundreds of acres of Turnip fields, where only patches of roots can be seen, or the intervening spaces filled up with late-sown crops with the object of getting some kind of green crop either for sale in market or to be fed off by sheep. The frequent recurrence of prolonged droughts renders it most necessary that we should prepare to meet drought before it actually sets in, for at the time little can be done beyond what may be termed temporary measures, such as watering or mulching, and although these may assist in tiding over the difficulty, there are other means even more effectual which, if put into practice in time, will to a great extent overcome the effects of the most protracted droughts. First on the list as a pre- ventive to the effects of drought I should put trenching, or thorough deep cultivation, as the universal testimony of those who have tried it is in favour of this remedy beyond all others. Trenching or double-digging must necessarily be done in different forms, according to the nature and depth of the soil. In old kitchen gardens that have been cultivated for years, and where the top spit from repeated manuring has become as light and rich as potting soil, the best plan is to take out a trench two spits deep, and after thoroughly loosening the bottom with a fork, and putting a layer of rough manure in, to turn the next top spit into the bottom of the trench, and on this put another layer of rotten manure. Then dig over the next spit on to this, adding a light sprinkling of manure, and finishing off by shovelling up all the broken soil on to the top. Proceed in the same way with every trench until the end is reached, and I think this treatment will in a great measure ward off the effects of drought. A friend of mine who ha? had charge of a garden where Peas, salads, i:c., always failed when even an ordinary drought pre- vailed, tells me that he has never failed since adopting this plan, and he considers that trenching is labour well spent. I would not advise all kinds of soils to be treated in this manner, for the simple reason that there is not sulScient depth of soil good enough to allow of the bottom spit being brought bodily up to the surface, for if at all gravelly, or composed of hard clay-like lumps, it must be enriched and broken up well below, and only brought to the surface by degrees. In these cases we take out one spit and the loose matter, and then, putting a coating of manure into the trench, we begin at one end and fork the soil over, mixing the manure with it. Then put some good rotten manure over it, and dig over the top spit of the next trench, finishing off with the fine loose soil, and leave it to settle down as long as possible before cropping. Mulching is a great help both in warding off the drought and retaining the moisture in the soil, and in light, stony ground such as prevails in the south of England, it i.s absolutely indispensable for many crops. Mulching may be done with various substances, but in the kitchen and fruit garden nothing answers so well as farmyard manure, as it serves the double purpose of feeding the roots, while the litter effectually breaks the sun's rays, checks evaporation, and at the end of the season can be dug in. Almost any substance, whether manurial or not, may be utilised in exceptionally dry seasons, and many people put a layer of stones over the roots of Roses, fruit trees, &c., to keep the moisture in the soil. In the flower garden. Cocoa-nut fibre refuse. Moss, and other non-manurial things are largely used, and are all more or less valuable in conjunction with Copious iheioation. — Never in my experience of gardening was the value of water more fully illustrated than towards the end of last summer, when all the rain-water tanks having been dry for weeks, and the only water within miles being that obtainable from the water companies' mains at so much per thousand gallons, we were warned that this supply could only be had at certain hours and in limited quantity, so that, except for valuable plants or crops, it became a question whether some crops would pay for watering under the circumstances. To obviate this, a good deal might be done in the way of storing. In underground tanks or reservoirs, rain water, which is now allowed to run to waste, as the supply from cisterns or tanks is rarely sufficient to last during a dry season. Now is the time to set about getting reservoirs, in order to get them filled before another drought conies round. Even with all the aids of deep cultivation, one must water newly-planted trees, shrubs or plants until they get well rooted, ami salads can hardly be had if the soil is dry. Let all, therefore, who value their gardens take immediate action, not only to trench the kitchen garden quarters thoroughly once in three or four years, but to provide tanks for catch- ing every drop of rain water that falls from sheds, outVjuildings, See. Deep cultivation is equally useful in very wet, as in very dry, seasons, as it provides a ready exit for siiperfluous moisture, and store tanks, if not wanted this year, will keep better full than empty, and will soon repay their cost when necessity comes for using them. GospoH. .JA3IE3 Groom. A NOXIOUS WEED: A WORD OF WARNING. The lato Miss Hope in her hook on " Gardens and Woodlands " speaks of Gout-weed (xEgopo- diura Podagraria) as being a fearful jJest in gardens, and in a note adds, "let not a variega- tion hobby induce anyone to admit the varie- gated form into a border.'' This amongst many good practical suggestions found in the above work I very emphatically endorse, and, I may add, be careful above all to keep this weed out of the rock garden. For years past it has jiroved a plague and a pest in various portions of the rockeries here, and it has also spread amongst bulbs. I am now engaged in the attempt to extirpate it from a rocky declivity traversed by a waterfall. Shrub.'; have to l)e removed, rocks lifted under which it has penetrated, and hardy ]>lants of all kinds cleared from the ground. There seems no more eft'ectual way of freeing the place of such an intolerable nuisance than to remove the top spit of soil altogether, fork up the subsoil, and replace with fresh soil ; and this I am doing, at a great sacritice of shrubs, plants, bulbs, and labour. I may reiterate the warning and say, where it occurs do not let consideration for bulbs ur choice plants, amongst which this weed has spread, deter you from at once attacking and rooting it out; left for a few seasons it spreails with alarming rapidity, and involves treble the amount of labour than would have been incurred if promptly destroyed. It is a weed not commonly found beyond the pre- cincts of the garden, or in any place frequented by stock or rabbits ; it is eaten greedily by the latter. It more generally occurs in waste ground near villages, about old religious houses, and in all probability was introduced by the monks. It 64 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888, had a reputation in old pharmacy, and is an illustration of the inconvenience and annoyance that may be caused by the introduction of a weed into our gardens, and in a small way may help us to understand the trouble and loss in- flicted on gardeners and farmers in Australia by the spread of our weeds over their half re- claimed and fertile land. W. Ingram. Belcoir. Trees and Shrubs. W. GOLDRING. THREE HANDSOME OAKS. The attention of planters should be directed to some of the newer kinds of Oaks that are show- ing every promise of becoming trees of the future, and which, from their handsome and distinct growth, are worthy of association with the finest hardy trees in parks and gardens. For some reason Oaks are not popular ivith tree planters, the general impression being that they are all of slow growth, and that genera- tions must elapse before they make large trees. But while this is true with regard to several of the Oaks, it is not so with all, some, particularly the North American species, being as rapid in growth as the generality of trees. The three species, of which illustrations of leaves are herewith given, are very little known in this country, though there is every reason to believe them to be of exceptional value as ornamental trees. They have not, it must be admitted, been planted long enough to enable one to apeak decisively upon their merits when fully grown, but in a young state they are extremely handsome, and two, at least, Q. Mir- becki and Q. conferta are unquestionably perfectly hardy in England, and the Japanese species, Q. dentata, may yet prove to be suit- able for our climate when once it has got beyond its nursery stage of growth. The Daimyo Oak, as Quercus dentata is called, bears the largest foliage of any Oak yet introduced, Leaf of the Daimyo Oak (Quercus dentata), quarter natural size. gome leaves in length by I have half as measured being fully 1 0 inches broad. The form of the leaf is shown in the subjoined outline drawing. It is a native of Japan, where it is generally seen as a small tree some 15 feet or 20 feet high. It grows on the mountains, and therefore it should be much hardier than many other Japanese trees which withstand our climate. But this does not appear to be the case, as the young shoots of small specimens are liable to be killed in a severe winter in the cli- mate of London. I have noticed that in several gardens and nurseries where young trees of it are growing the shoots almost invariably show signs of having been injured by frost at some period ; but, as in the case of other trees and plants, it may yet be found to be quite hardy. Its immense leaves are so handsome, that even in a small state it is an ornament to any garden. Further south the tree, even when small, would perhaps be unaffected by severe cold. This Oak is to be found in the principal tree nurseries, and is a particular feature in Messrs. Lee's arboretum at Isleworth, where it grows with remarkable vigour, developing the largest leaves I have yet seen. It is known generally in nurseries under the name of Quercus Daimyo. Mr. Nicholson, of Kew, is of the opinion that a Chinese Oak, Q. obovata, is identical with Q. dentata, in which case the tree would appear to have a wide range. Its leaves afford the food of a Chinese silkworm, so that it is of economic value. The Algerian Oak (Quercus Mirbecki), like Q. dentata, has not been in cultivation in this country long enough for any trees to attain a large size, but the several young specimens that have been planted Leaf of the Algerian Oak (Quercus Mirbecki), quarter natural size. in various parts of the countiy prove that it is per- fectly hardy, a rapid and vigorous grower, and very ornamental. I saw a tree last autumn in the arbore- tum at Syon House which struck me with the beauty of its foliage and sturdy and dense growth. Judging from what Mr. Woodbridge told me as to the date of planting this tree, 1 gather that its rate of growth is more rapid than that of most other Oaks, and as it is in good soil and in an open yet sheltered spot, it will soon make a fine tree. In Algeria and South-west Europe this Oak is one of the largest timber trees. The outline drawing here given of it was prepared from a leaf 9 inches in length. It is said that there are two forms of this Oak in nur- series, one having green leaf-stalks, the other red, but I have only seen that with green leaf-stalks, which must be the commonest. In the garden of the Villa Taverna, on the shores of Lake Como, the Algerian Oak grows to great perfection, and some of the finest specimens known in cultivation are there found. It is there quite an evergreen, and in- deed in England its leaves remain green nearly all the winter, though they begin to look shabby by the end of the year. In some nurseries it is cata- logued as Quercus Zan. The Hungarian Oak (Q. conferta), known also as Q. pannonica, is remarkable for its rapid growth, which is one of its cliief merits, though in beauty of foliage also it will compare favourably with any other European Oak. It makes a densely branched round- headed tree, and is not unlike the Algerian Oak in this respect. Its hardiness is beyond doubt, and fine specimens of it may be seen as far north as Leaf of the Hungarian Oak (Quercus conferta), quarter natural size. Edinburgh, where it has been planted for years in the Botanic Gardens. The deeply-lobed leaves are deep green in summer, and die off in autumn of a rich yellow-brown tint. It is a valuable timber tree in its native forests, the wood being very durable. THE ACACIA OR LOCUST TREE. (EOBINIA.) Few tree lovers will, I think, agree with "A. D.," in The Garden, Jan. 7 (p. 3), respecting this fine old ornamental tree. He complains of the gaunt and ragged aspect of old trees unless they are occa- sionally beheaded and induced to break afresh. Such may be the opinion of " A. D.," but it is con- trary to that generally entertained. Gilpin, whose opinion upon the ornamental aspects of trees is con- sidered authoritative, speaks of the Acacia as a most elegant tree and often very beautiful, and artists look upon it in the same light, and especially when it assumes that gaunt and ragged appearance in old age. A venerable old Acacia is one of the most picturesque trees I know. Its deeply seamed, rugged bark, oddly twisted branches, and scant foli- age combine to make it a striking object, particu- larly if associated, by way of contrast, with vigorous young deciduous trees or prim Conifers. In many of the old gardens I have visited in various parts of the country, old Acacias have impressed me with their picturesque beauty, and stamped the whole character of the gardens from recollections of these trees alone. Beheading large Acacias, as "A.D." suggests, simply renders them hideous, and worse than pollard Willows or Elms, though this form of tree, no doubt, is admired by those who can call the mop-headed Robinia Besjoniana beautiful. This particular va- riety is pecuharlyadapted as a smallstreettree, being dense in growth and of a luxuriant green, but a row of them, if the trees have been hard pruned, reminds one of a line of huge inverted mops. The common Acacia in a young state is extremely elegant. I do not mean the young trees grafted man high, as one sees in a nursery, but genuine seedling trees which are feathered to the ground. Last summer I saw in the neighbourhood of Weybridge a public road fringed on either side with seedling Acacias, and I thought at the time I had never seen so beautiful an avenue. It was like walking through a grove of Ferns, the seedlings being of all sizes, from a few inches to 20 feet high. The soil was sandy, yet not too dry, and was, therefore, just favourable for the Acacia. A great many Acacias 'are sold every year, and, presuming that they are all planted, the decline of the Acacia as an ornamental tree is not imminent, and seeing there are now upwards of thirty named varieties to select from, surely the tastes of everyone can be accommodated. Ahalf-dozen of the best would Include those named angustifolia, one of the most graceful of all trees, having small leaflets of pale green ; Bessoniana, best adapted for street planting, Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 65 though, on account of its distinct growth, it is de- sirable in limited numbers in parks and gardens ; fastigiata (also called stricta and pyramid alls), in growth like the Lombardy Poplar or Cypress Oak (inermis), with broad foliage, of a deep green, the growth being dense and spineless ; aurea, with golden foliage ; and Decaisneana, the finest of all as regards its flowers, which are pale pink, and produced in dense racemes. All these are more or less easily obtained from nurseries, and he would be difficult to please indeed who did not consider them all beautiful. As to the merits of the Acacia as a profitable tree' I think that is aside from the present question- There is no doubt that years ago it was a much overrated tree, and was planted largely everywhere for the value of its timber, which now is found to be of little use. The celebrated Cobbett, who called it "the tree of trees," is no doubt responsible for the large number of Acacias one sees in all parts in crowded plantations, but though it is valueless as a timber tree, its merits from an ornamental stand- point are worthy of being upheld. W. GOLDBING. Time for pruning Limes. — As regards the proper season for pruning Lime trees, " W. C," The Garden January 7 (p. 3), appears to me to answer his own question. He says that the branches of his January pruned trees died back to the trunk, while those pruned in August remained healthy. It is evident that the shoots cut in January suffered from some cause, probably from severe frosts acting on the newly-cut surfaces. It is not the usual practice to prune deciduous trees in August, but I am inclined to consider that midsummer is the most suitable season for the operation, for if done at that season the trees are then in tolerably active growth, and the wounds become healed over before winter sets in. The usual custom is to prune deciduous trees after the fall of the leaves, but this is mere rule-of -thumb practice, and it is by no means clear that it is best to prune trees when lea fless. The pruning of trees and shrubs, as I have recently had occasion to state, seems to be little understood, and there seems to be no principle upon which the general practice of pruning is based. I am of the opinion that if deciduous trees and shrubs were pruned soon after midsummer while in active growth we should not see so many fine trees with their trunks disfigured by scars and holes, often eating into the heart of the trunk. Provided that "W. C.'s" Limes are in good health, his case clearly illustrates the results of summer and winter prun- ing. The pruning of ornamental trees and shrubs is such an important subject, that it cannot be too much discussed, and I should like to have the opinions of others upon it. — W. Goldeing. Poplar Parasol de St. Julien. — In answer to W. Goldring, who inquires as to the history of this Poplar in The Garden, January 7 (p. 2), I should say that its history resembles that of many other varieties in demand by the planter. I will give its history in a few words. In the spring of 1865, one of the foremen of the establishment of Baltet freres observed a slender, many-branched, reflexed Poplar growing on the bank of a canal at St. Julien, near Troyes. He then procured branches presenting in the most marked degree the character that it was desired to reproduce, and crown-grafted them. After having proved and studied the new form during two years, MM. Baltet freres sent it out under the name of Poplar Parasol de St. Julien. It immediately became widely spread owing to its highly ornamental qualities. It is far more beau- tiful than the old weeping Poplar, and it is also hardy. It is probable (but one cannot affirm posi- tively anything in such a case) that the Poplar Parasol de St. Julien is only a form of Populus tremula (the Aspen), a form comparatively recent and of a more showy aspect than that possessed by the old variety. I may add that it does best when grafted on Populus allia (the white Poplar of Hol- land), and that it does not succeed on the Swiss Poplar.— Feed. Oayeux. Daphne Mezereum. — It is with great pleasure I read the note of " W. G." on the Mezereon at page 2 of The Garden (Januai-y 7). Being situated close to the Austrian Alps, I sometimes make excursions in search of wild plants. Amongst others I found Daphne Mezereum and the evergreen Daphne laureola in rather shady woods ; whilst the beautiful Daphne Cneorum grows in open places and nestles among rocks and short Grass. — Louis Kropatsch, Laxenhnrg. The ITepaul Barberry (Berberis nepalensis). — In mild localities on the south coast this noble evergreen shrub may be grown to perfection in the open air, provided it is sheltered from rough winds, but it is uncertain about London and north- wards, except against warm walls. There used to be against one of the old walls at Kew a fine speci- men of it which every year produced a profusion of golden flower clusters, but it succumbed to a very severe winter. This fine Barberry is in flower now in the temperate plant house at Kew, and, being one of the very few plants in flower, is conspicuous. Its enormous leaves, with prickly-edged leaflets of pale green, and its wide-spreading flower clusters of rich yellow make it a noble plant. It is about 10 feet high.— W. G. Junipetus rigida. — Among medium-growing Conifers suitable for single specimens on small lawns or similar spots, this Japanese species of Juniper should find a place, as it is pleasing in out- line, very distinct from any of the other forms, and is quite hardy. When in a suitable position it forms a broad pyramidal specimen, but one that is totally devoid of any stiffness or formality, for the branches vary a good deal in length, and thus, as it were, break up the outline of the plant. The principal branches are rather upright in growth, but the whole of the branchlets and young shoots are strictly pendulous, thus imparting a very grace- ful character to the specimen. The specific name of rigida is derived from the stiff, sharply-pointed leaves, which need almost as careful handling as a Furze bush. In winter this Conifer becomes slightly browned, but not to the same extent as many others, while the young foliage during the growing season is of a pale green hue, which becomes darker with age. It stands pruning well. — H. P. The hardiest Laurel. — Most of us know that the Colchio Laurel is hardier than the common kind, but that it is the hardiest of all the Laurels, as one would infer from the note of "W. I." in The Garden on January 7 (page 4), is questionable. There are at least two other varieties that will dispute with the Colchic variety the right of being called the hardiest Laurel. These are the Caucasian (caucasica) and the round-leaved (rotundifolia), both of which, I consider, are hardier than colchioa. It has been proved beyond doubt that the Cau- casian is the hardiest of all the Laurels, since, even in Scotland, it has withstood, uninjured, the severest winters for the past dozen years. From what "W. I." says I imagine that he possesses not colchica, but the true caucasica. He says that the Laurel he calls colchica has more erect growth and narrower leaves than the common kind, and this is a character peculiar to the Caucasian variety, while the Colchic always has a spreading, not erect, habit of growth. The leaves, moreover, are distinct in form, being broadest in the middle and of rich deep green. If " W. I." really has caucasica instead of colchica, he does possess the hardiest Laurel, and not only the hardiest, but one of the handsomest in other re- spects. It has a bold and vigorous growth, and quickly forms a dense mass. This is not an unim- portant question, for as most planters wish to buy the hardiest Laurel, they may be easily misled by ordering the Colchio instead of the Caucasian. The round-leaved variety (rotundifolia) is perhaps, of all others, the most popular among nurserymen, some of whom look upon it as the best of all, and second to none in point of hardiness. It has fulfilled aU that was predicted concerning it when it was first known in this country about seventeen years ago. It was first exhibited before the Royal Horti- cultural Society on January 10, l.'iTO, by Mr. W. Paul, of Waltham Cross, and though only a second- class certificate was awarded, it has since proved to be worthy of the highest certificate of merit that could be bestowed upon it. This is an instance of the unwise plan of exhibiting a specimen before it is fully developed. As I am now studying the nu- merous forms of the common Laurel, I should he glad if "W. I." will send me a fair specimen of the sort he has under the name of colchica.— W. Goldeing, Gloucester lioad. Ken: Ferns. W. H. GOWER. SELECT DAVALLIAS. The Squieeel's-foot Fben (Davallia bullata).— This is one of the most charming species of this well-known and deservedly popular genus. Not- withstanding that being deciduous, it loses its fronds in winter, as a basket plant in summer it has few equals, the bright chestnut-red of the rhizomes affording such a decided contrast to its bright shining green fronds. Some fine examples of this species treated as basket plants were spe- cially notable during the past summer in Baron Schroeder's garden at Egham, and this wmter 1 recently noted a fine specimen in Mr. Partington s garden at Cheshunt growing upon a portion of a stout Tree Fern stem, and hanging in all its natural freedom and grace; its foliage had not fallen, but was yet beautiful in its decay, exhibiting all the golden tints of a glorious sunset. The fronds of this species are from 6 inches to 10 incheshigh, and spring from a long creeping rhizome, which is densely clothed with bright chestnut-red scale.=. It is a native of India, growing in mountain dis- tricts as high as 4000 feet elevation. D. DISSBCTA is nearly allied to the preceding; it differs, however, in having its long creeping rhi- zomes clothed with long reddish brown scales, and in its fronds not being deciduous; it produces longer fronds than D. bullata, and they are not so broadly deltoid in outline; the colour is light green. It is a superb plant for a hanging basket, and some very fine examples of this species are to be seen m Baron Schrceder's garden as well as in the Kew collection. It comes from the Indian Archipelago, and requires stove heat. D. decora.— This is by some made a variety of dissecta, but under cultivation it appears to be a very distinct plant. The rhizome is very similar to that of dissecta, but the fronds are broader, more erect, and decidedly deltoid in outline; they are from a foot to 18 inches high, and from 10 inches to a foot broad at the base. This forms a fine exhi- bition plant when grown in pots. I recently noted nice examples in Mr. Williams' nursery at HoUoway. D. PALLIDA, perhaps better known in gardens under Dr. Masters' name of D. Mooreana, is one of the most beautiful Ferns in cultivation. 1 have seen it grown as a basket plant, but I think it dis- plays its beauty to greater advantage when grown in a pot. One of the finest specimens of this species which has come under my notice was growing in the stove at Park Hill, Streatham, the residence of Mr. H. Tate. The plant in question is upwards ot 8 feet in diameter, and its fronds are perfectly sym- metrical. The colour is a peculiar pale green, which has a very pleasing effect when associated with deeper tints of green. No fernery should lack this majestic and handsome species. It is a native of the island of Aneitum, and requires stove heat. D. TEICHOMANOIDES.— This species belongs, per- haps, more correctly to the genus Leucostegia. I am not aware that it is in cultivation, hut being a native of the Fiji group— islands which have re- cently contributed so many handsome plants to our stoves— I notice it here as being one of the most de- sirable plants yet to come. From specimens of this plant sent me by a friend, the fronds appear to be almost as finely divided as those of Trichomanes trichoideum, and the colour is a bright sea-green. Plant collectors in these islands should search for this lovely Fern, and enrich our collections at home with it. D. FCRNICULACEA is another extremely beautiful species, which I have received from the mountains of Naviti Leva, one of the Fiji Islands, which, if not already in the country, will be very shortly. It 66 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. is a distinct and beautiful plant, the delicacy of its fronds being sure to elicit admiration. These two species alone are ample proof that plants in abundance still exist in their native wilds superior to many of those we cherish as the finest of their kinds. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Gardens and Pleasure Grounds Fund.— We learn that the Mansion House committee have placed ±^5000 at the disposal of the Public Gardens Associa- tion, to be spent exclusively in the employment of labour and supervision in connection with the new pleasure ground of l-l acres at Camberwell and the conversion of a part of the Tower Garden into an open space for the public. Begonia manicata. — This Begonia is often met with in gardens, but, as a rule, in bad con- dition, yet when seen in rude health it is invaluable as a decorative plant at this season of the year. A beautifully-flowered and well-grown specimen is at present in one of the houses at Barvins Park, the residence of Jlr. J. R. Wood. Bouvardia President Cleveland has a great future, as it is now largely grown. The colour of the flowers is brilliant scarlet, eclipsed even by that of Hogarth and elegans. There are some small plants now flowering at Messrs. Hooper's nursery at Twickenham. At the same place were also two new double kinds, viz., Triomphe de Nancy, salmon- red, and Sang Lorrain, scarlet, which will ap- parently turn out something good. Chrysanthemum Qolden Gem. — Those who have not yet obtained this variety should do so, as it will be found invaluable for the greenhouse. It has a robust dwarf habit and retains its foliage well. — H. ViCKEEY, Huntsmoor Parli Gardens, Hvclis. *,* This late variety was well exhibited at the January show of the National Chrysanthemum Society ; its yellow colour is bright and telling. As a late kind it holds a foremost place. Carbonell collection of Ferns. — The repre- sentative collection of British Ferns bequeathed by the late Mr. Carbonell, of Usk, to the Royal Gar- dens, Kew, as notifled in The Gaedbn last week (p. :'i7), will be mainly planted on the mound, of which the old rockery formed part. The site is being rapidly prepared, so that lovers of Ferns will find this an interesting spot next summer. As the specimens are nearly all of large size, an immediate effect will be the result. Winter-flo-weringr Carnations have been excellent ibis season in the nursery of Messrs. Hooper and Co., Twickenham, and there are a few kinds now in bloom. The varieties that we noticed as worth cultivating are the old scarlet Alegatiere ; Mme. Carle, pure white ; J. P. Nugue, orange- scarlet ; Irma, rose-pink ; and Dr. Raymond, like the old Clove, very dwarf, sweetly-scented, and rich maroon-crimson. The plants are propagated from side slips in February, and a late batch is reserved for flowering in April. Orinum latifoliiun. — This beautiful Indian Crinum is in flower now in the stove at Kew, and bears from ten to twenty blooms in an umbel. The specimen at Kew is carrying one fully developed scape, and another that will be in perfection in a few days. The flowers, something like those of the Madonna Lily, are clear white, save a delicate tinge of red on the sides of the segments, and sweetly scented. It bears abundant foliage, and is most chaste and beautiful. As a Crinum for giving beauty to the stove at this season of the year, it has great claims upon the gardener. A beautiful Saxifrage is S. Burseriana major, a variety of one of the sweetest of all spring flowers. There are a few plants of it now a mass of bloom in the new alpinehouseat Kew,and thisis amost useful way to cultivate it, as the flowers are unharmed by dirt, winds, or heavy rains, which frequently spoil them when exposed. By growing them also in pots, the flowers appear early, frequently before the year has scarcely turned. These and the tufted leafage are both larger than in the type, but we can afford both, as there are few tufted Saxifrages that have such an inviting appearance in the rockery. Even out of doors it is the earliest to herald in the spring, and though of delicate beauty the plant is perfectly hardy, loving a light soil and a warm nook, where it will show well at the flowering season. If those who care for Saxifrages have not S. Burseriana, then they are without a treasure of no small value. Dombeya Kastersi. — This is a very beautiful flowering stove shrub, introduced twenty years ago from Tropical Africa. In growth it reminds one of the common Sparmannia africana, as it has similar large heart-shaped leaves, about 9 inches in length. The branches are few and slender, and shoot up almost erect. The flowers, produced in dense droop- ing clusters from the axils of the leaves on the upper part of the stem, are about the size of a shilling, with white petals and a pale pink centre, and are very fragrant. A fine specimen of the shrub is now in flower in one of the stoves at Kew, and has been in bloom for a fortnight. — W. G. Cypripedium Fostermani. — This exceedingly rare kind I recently noted flowering in the Cam- bridge Lodge collection at Camberwell. The plant has short, plain green leaves, which much resemble those of C. Spicerianum ; the flowers, however, which are totally different, are bold and handsome. The dorsal sepal is white. Hushed in the centre with greenish yellow, and stained at the base with reddish purple, streaked and blotched with the same colour ; petals broad, suffused reddish purple, with a yel- lowish green border ; lip short, flaked all over with purplish crimson. It is a very distinct and showy kind.— H. The Tenby Daffodil (Narcissus obvallaris) is one of the first large-trumpeted Daffodils that is brought in bloom to the London flower markets, and a very charming flower it is, so exquisite in form and so rich in colour. I saw this week a bouquet of it that pleased me much; there were about a dozen flowers of it placed loosely in a bowl with the coppery-tinged foliage of the common Mahonia (Berberis Aquifolium), of which large quantities have come into the market since Christmas. The mixture was perfect, and as the stalks of the Daffo- dils were of various lengths, the bunch did not look formal. The Tazetta Narcissi, particularly the Paper-white, are plentiful in the market, but do not " take " so well as the bold, big yellow-flowered varieties.— Q. Stanhopea eburnea. — For some reason the Stanhopeas are not very popular, even with those who make a speciality of Orchids. Some object to the overpowering fragrance of their flowers, and in some species this is certainly an objection, but on account of the noble character of the flowers of all the kinds and their quaint forms, they are amongst the finest of Orchids. One of the less common species, S. eburnea, is now in flower in the Kew collection, and its flowers possess a delightful fragrance, and not too strong. The flowers, too, are very showy, being large and with the sepals and petals of ivory whiteness, while the curious shoe-shaped lip is white and adorned with parallel lines of carmine- crimson dots. Suspended in baskets, the only way that Stanhopeas can be successfully grown, they have, from their dissimilarity to other Orchids, an interesting appearance when in bloom. Popularity of Christmas Koses. Never before has the white Christmas Rose been so plentiful or in such demand as it is this season. It is to be seen in all the leading florists' shops in London, and is made up into all manner of devices with other flowers and foliage, but is chielly used for wreaths and crosses. The large size of the flowers, their exquisite form and pure whiteness are sur- passed by no other flower at this season, and they last as long as Orchids. They fetch a high price, too, in market. On Christmas eve in Covent Garden single blooms were sold for twopence, so that those who hold large stocks of the best sort, which is angustifolius, are making a good thing of them. The altifolius, or maximus variety, which has beautifully formed buds of a delicate pint, sell briskly ; excepting in perfume, they are equal to Rose-buds. One of the prettiest arrangements of the white Christmas Rose was a wreath of open blooms and buds with a groundwork of bronzy Ivy leaves. The largest blooms are rather too big for coat bouquets, but for ladies' head or dress flowers they are matchless. This is another in- stance of the growing popularity of hardy herba- ceous flowers. Lachenalias in baskets.- Lachenalias are generally grown in pots, but sometimes we find them in baskets, and for this method of culture they are of great use. At Wimbledon House there are several large baskets filled with the old L. tri- color, suspended in one of the houses, and the leaf- growth they have made is robust and glossy green, forming quite an ornamental feature in itself. This, however, in a short time will be supplemented by a profuse show of flower-spikes, as these are now appearing. The bulbs are planted moderately thickly, and the whole of the baskets are enveloped in leafage. Those who have hitherto only grown Lachenalias in pots should make use of them as- basket plants, as although this is an old way of cultivating them, it is not carried out so much as it ought to be. We can hardly Imagine few prettier or more effective features in a greenhouse in the winter than a basket, or several of them, if the structure is large, occupied with Lachenalia tricolor. Cypripedium Lindleyanum. — This species is a recent introduction, and is both novel and rare. It is a bold-growing plant, wiih broad, shining green leaves, narrowly bordered with yellow. The scape is some 4 feet high and panicled, the sepals and petals being clothed with short brown woolly hairs, the dorsal sepal greenish yellow, prominently streaked with reddish crimson. The lip is narrow, compressed at the base, pale greenish yellow, and veined with crimson, the border broad and incurved, being heavily freckled and dotted with crimson. It appears that this plant was discovered by Sir Robert Schomburgk nearly half a century ago, but has only recently been introduced, in a living state, by Mr. Sander, of St. Albans. I recently noted it flowering in Mr. Measures' collection at Camberwell ; one, a large plant, was blooming profusely in a cool house, while the other, a smaller one, was in a somewhat higher temperature. — W. Chrysanthemum Governor of Guernsey. — I have much pleasure in sending you two flowers of my new Chrysanthemum, Governor of Guernsey, which was awarded a first-class certificate by the National Chrysanthemum Society, and one by the Royal Horticultural Society two seasons ago. The flowers, as you will see, are almost gone, owing to the vitiated atmosphere of the Aquarium, where they have been for two days. — T. S. Ware, Tottcn- liam *,* We saw this new variety exhibited at the show, and considered it an excellent addition to the late class. The flowers are of medium size, full, and of a fine clear jellow self colour, the florets pointed and arranged in the fashion of a bloom of Peter the Great type. It has also a hmg season, as it was in condition in the autumn. Such novelties as these are worth certificating. — Ed. The Tangier Irie, Iris (Xiphion) tingitana. — I send you an Iris which has been in flower some time. T'here is a second bud which will open if put in water. The first flowers opened about ten days ago, so it has the meiit of blooming early. This Iris was brought to me from North Africa and blooms in the month of February. The plants are in quite a cold house. I thought it might be inte- resting to you. I have it out of doors as well, but though growing strongly, it has not jet shown flowers. I got the Iris last autumn. — Olive Abdi- LAUN, SI. Aim's, C/imtarf, Cn. Duhlin. *,'* The Tangier Iris, kindly sent, is a beautiful flower, found by Dr Hociker and Mr. George Maw in North Africa, and figured in the Jiotaiiira/ Afaga- zinr (plate (1775). It has a flower as large as the German Iris, of delicate, soft colouring, the upper segments pale lavender, the lower richly coloured with a yellow central band ; the spreading lip pure white. It is an Iris that ought to become com- Jan. 21, 1888.] THE GARDEN. «7 mocer than it is, as it blooms early, when such choice things are scarce. The growth is tall and robust. — Ed. Societies and Exhibitions. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL. Scientific Committee. Hyhrid Rliododendrons. — Messrs. Veitch and Sons sent five hjbrids between East Indian forms, interesting as showing the effects of colours. The crosses were as follows: 1, Female, Rhododendron jasminiflorum, from Malacca (white); male, R. Cartisi, from Sumatra (small and scarlet). Hjb., scarlet corolla, a little broader than that of the male parent. Effect: male transferred colour and form ; female had no effect. 2, Female, R. jasmini- florum (white) ; male, R. javanicum (orange yellow). Hyb., R. j. carminatum (bright red). Effect: male transferred the red colour, but the white female eliminated the yellow. 3, Female, R. Maiden's Blush (very pale pink); male, R. Teysmanni, from Sumatra (palish yellow). Hyb., R. Primrose. Effect: yellow male transferred colour, unaffected by female. 4, Female, R. Princess Alexandra (large and white); male, R. Curtisi. Hyb., R. Eclatant (bright red). Effect: male, transferred colour, female imparted size. 5, Female, R. Monarch (a hyb. from javanicum, but of a more pinky tinge to the orange); male, R. Malayannm (very small, diameter three-quarters of an inch, but bright red). Hyb., Little Beauty (diameter IJ inches, bright red) Effect: male transferred red, and eliminated the yellow. The general results observable are : 1, the prepotency of the red male flowers and the impo- tence of white females to affect the offspring. When yellow is present— e.^., in orange, then either white or red can eliminate it (Nos. 2 and 5). The Princess Alexandra (female white of No. 4) arose in a similar way. A cross between the larger-flowered R. javanicum (orange) with the smaller, R. jasmini- florum (white), gave rise to Princess Royal (rose), the yellow disappearing. A further cross of the last with the parent, R. jasminiflorum, now elimi- nated the red; the offspring, however, retained the form and large size of the corolla of Princess Royal and R. javanicum. Mr. O'Brien observed that a similar elimination of yellow had occurred in Be- gonias, for B. Sutherlandi (orange) crossed by B. parvifolia Dregei (white) had given rise to a red- flowered offspring. Abutilons afforded another in- stance. Rliodode7idron Carr'nigioniir. — Baron von Mueller sent a description of this new species, which occurs on almost inaccessible declivities of Mount Obree, at elevations of 6000 feet to 7000 feet. The corolla is white (from Met. Katuralist, Nov., 1887). Tlie Silrcr Fir ^Ei'idiuiu. — Mr. Plowiight sent the following communication with specimens : — The extreme tips of the branches of the Silver Fif are ct'ten found bare of leaves and variously swollen and distorted. This condition Las been assumed to be the result of injury from their having been bitten off by squirrels or other animals. lu the specimens sent herewith, which have been given to mo by Mr. H. Munro, of Cleveland, Lyme Regis, the mischief is caused, not by animals, but by a fungus, the so-called Peridermium columnare. Robert Hartig worked out the life history of this fungus in 1880. lie found that the ..T^cidium columnare A.P.S. is a hetercecismal fungus, the teleutospores of which occur upon Vac- cinium Vitis-Id.'eajaud are known to mycologists under the name of Calyptospora Goeppertiana (J. Kiihn) The Calyptospora is not a British species, so that it is difficult 1 0 account for the presence of the a3eidiospores R. Haitig, Forst und Jagdzeituug, 1880. " Lehrbuch der Baum Kraukheitlu," pp. 50 to 61, t. ii. Prof. J. Kiihn has, however, recently repeated Hartig's cul tures with this result. He finds that there are two .^cidia on the Silver Fir, the true ^*Ec. columnare of Abertini and Schweitz, which has for its teleutospores Calyptospora Goeppertiana and another ^'Ecidium much resembling ^i^c. columnare, hut with a different life history. This ,-Eoidium he proposes to call ^Ec. pseudo-columnare, and it is most probable that the fungus which has injured the accompanying shoots of Silver Fir is Kiihn's plant. Potato tvHh incarcerated beetle. — Mr. Maclauchlan exhibited a Potato perforated and with a large in- ternal cavity. A predaceous beetle, Pttrostichus madidus, had somehow entered and apparently could not escape. The lining of the cavity, which had seemingly been excavated by some animal, was provided with a strong layer of cork cells. AhtmbiUim i7i plants. — Prof. Church called atten- tion to the fact that though large percentages of this metal are well known to exist in Lycopodiacea;, it was not hitherto suspected to be general in flower- ing plants. A Japanese chemist having discovered it in Rhus vernix, &c., in the gum of the lacquer resin. Prof. Church examined Cherry tree gum, gum arabic, tragacanth, &c., and found traces to be in- variably present. In the Anafy.'.-t for January it is stated that it is also invariably present in the gluten of Wheat, in this case as a phosphate of alumina. It does not occur in association with the starch. From the precautions taken it could not have been due to the millstones. In all cases it is probably accidentally absorbed by the roots and plays no part in vegetable physiology. Urthezia insignis, "Coccus" on Strobilanthes. — Mr. Morris exhibited specimens of this newly dis- covered " bug " on S. cuspidatus from the economic house at Kew. It has been described and figured in the "Journal of the Queck. Mic. Club," vol. iii , p. 169. Mr. Michael observed that its habits did not agree with those cocci of which the larvfe lie dormant beneath the parent, but the young were always very active. The genus was, in fact, on the border of the coccidse, and its nearest ally was iceria. A discussion followed as to the nature of the secre- tion of wax. It is generally believed to be renewed, the length of the secretion depending upon the age of the insect. Mr. Browne, in the paper alluded to, says it is spreading, and is now found on Scutel- laria, &c ,in the adjoining house at Kew. Mr. Lynch added that apparently the same species attacked Acanthaceous plants. Clerodeiidron, n. sjy.—Mx. Morris exhibited shoots of a new species received from Sir J. Kirk from Zanzibar. It is remarkable for having the basal parts of the leaves much thickened and curved for the purpose of support. The upper half of the petiole carrying the blade can oscillate, and becomes detached. It does not appear to be sensitive, but resembles the hooked peduncles of Uncaria and stipules of Dipladenia. Fomeijranale (English).— Mr. R. J. Lynch showed a small fruit, about IJ inches in diameter, grown on the walls of Emanuel College, Cambridge. Law. DUNSDON V. MOSS. This action, heard in the Queen's Bench Division on Monday last before Mr. Justice Stephen without a jury, was brought by John Dunsdon, of Furze- down Farm, Streatham, Surrey, market garderer, against Arnold Moss, of 39, King William Street, London (trading as Jacob Wrench and Sons), for the sum of £500 damages alleged to have been sus- tained by plaintiff for loss of crop of Early Rainham Cabbage grown from seed supplied by defendant in 1886. Mr. Lockwood, Q.C., and two juniors appeared for plaintiff, and Mr. Tindal-Atkinson, Q C , and Mr. Earle appeared for defendant. The plaintiff' stated that he bought a certain quantity of Early Rainham Cabbage from defen- dant's firm in July, 1886, at a cost of £2 Ss., sowed the whole of it on one day, viz., 22nd July, finally transplanting the produce en to 21i acres of his land during the months of September, October, and even November following. He affirmed that the land was properly prepared for such a crop. The result of his experience, he stated, was that instead of having a good crop of marketable Cabbage in June, 1887, he bad a crop of "wild things" all running to seed, which, he said, was an admixture of Savoy, Kale, wild Broccoli, and Brussels Sprouts. His claim was at the rate of £22 per acre for rent, rates, taxes, manure, labour, and other expenses ; in fact, for total loss of crop. When cross-examined by Mr. Atkinson he admitted that he had sold t?\inched Cabbages off these particular lot^ pf land amounting to perhaps £8 per acre, and he could not swear it might not have been over £10, but he had not kept any account whatever of this money ; also that he bad, in addition to plants obtained from Messrs. Wrench's seed, procured some from a neigh- bour and planted these in the middle of one of the fields, and included this in his claim against plain- tiff; that early sowing might cause Cabbages to run to seed the following summer, but early Cabbages always fetched more money than late ones. Four or five market gardeners were called on his behalf as witnesses. Each declared the same thing, viz , that he had never seen such stuff before as the plants on these 2\k acres, but eventually, in cross- examination, admitted that the runners might pos- sibly have come from Early Rainham Cabbage, and that early sowing, combined with the exceptional winter of 1886-87, and the peculiarly cold spring of 1887, followed, as it was, by a sudden change to mild and fine weather, might have caused any Cabbages to run to seed instead of forming heads. At the conclusion of the plaintiff's case, the learned judge said that it was quite useless to con- tinue the case further, as plaintiff had entirely failed to inake out his claim in any way, and, with- out calling on the defence, gave a verdict for the defendant with costs, remarking that had there been a jury in the case to whom he would have had to sum up, he should have used a few very strong expressions as to his opinion of the evidence of some at least of the witnesses called by the plaintiff. Ivy dying. — I herewith send diseased Ivy leaves, and would be glad to know what the disease is, and a cure for the same. The disease com- menced seme three years ago, and has gone on from time to time, breaking out in fresh places on Ivy banks bordering a carriage drive (soil sand and gravel, and with various aspects), and within the last three weeks a plant on the house has a patch of the disease. The leaves first get a spot, and gradually becoming brown all over, fall off, and the shoots ultimately die. — A. *ff* In reply to " A.," I have carefully examined the Ivy leaves, which are decaying in a very remark- able manner. I can find no insects on them, nor any traces of them. They are attacked by a fungus, but whether it is the cause of the decay or not I cannot say, but I should fancy not. — G. S. S. Iris ruthenica. — In answer t^ "F. W. B.," in Thk (iARDKN, Jan. 14 (p. 26), there should be no difii- culty in obtaining this plant, as it is offered in Mr. Ware's catalogue, and grown successfully at the Tot- tenham Nurseries. The secret in growing it successfully seems to be that it should be moved in spring when it starts into growth, as when planted in autumn it gene- rally fails. — G. R. I see that "F. W. B." inquires as to where Iris ruthenica can he procured. I will give him a plant cr two, as it grows well here in dry sandy soil, and does not appear at all difficult to cultivate. It is cer- tainly a gem, and does not lose any thing by comparison with I. Xiphion. — W.4i,t.ace Mouse, A'^.'-odi JViu-senps. The late M. Laeharme. — French horficul* turists are getting up a subscription for a monument to the late M. Licharme, who raised so many beauti" ful Roses. Subscriptions are to he sent to M. Bernaix* O.'i, Cours Lafayette, a Villeurhanne, Lyons. A. H. — Ycur Apples appearto have been touched by frost. Tfames of plants. — W. Bills.— Clematis graveo- lens. /. Morris. — Odontoglossum cirrhosum. J. Latvie. — We do not name fiorist's flowers. Sholio, — 1, Dendrobium endocharis ; 2, Maxillaria luteo-alba; 3, Cypripedium Harrisianum. J. W. F. — 1, Odonto- glossum cirrhosum; 2, Dendrobium bigibbum. T. Jackson. — 1, Odontoglossum aspersum; 2, Cypri- pedium Ashburtoniffi. If. B. — Both forms of Odontoglossum Rossi. Donald {Edinhiirgh). — Odontoglossum cirrhosum. Tovy {Cariterhury). — 1, Plrica herbacea ; 2, Jasminum nudifloruru. M. T. — ( )dontoglossum odoratum ; medium form. Fernery. — l.Asplenium Petrarche; 2, Neottopterisausfralasica; 3, Adiantum Wilsoni; 4, Myriopteris lendigera. J B. — 1, Lopholepis piloselloides ; 2, Sitolobium Pavoni ; 3, Diplazium zeylanicum. Ale^'ander Trail. — 1 he flowers were unfortunately very much bruised, but it is without doubt a good form of C. Veitchi. 0. B. — Lycaste lanipes. 68 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 21, 1888. WOODS & FORESTS. TREES FOR MARSH AND MOUNTAIN. The common Birch (Betula alba) is in some respects rather a remarkable tree, as it not only combines the ornamental with the useful to a large extent, but is also capable of growing and reproducing itself on all classes of soil and situa- tions from the boggy swamp up to the highest position where trees will live. This ought to be a great inducement for planters to use it largely in planting marsh ground and clothing cold, wind-swept hUl-sides and bare northern ex- posiires. The weeping variety of this tree, when raised from seed collected from the best trees in the highlands of Scotland, is highly ornamental, and may be used by the landscape gardener for the embellishment of the pleasure grounds and the improvement of park scenery with the best results. Whether planted as a single specimen on the lawn or mixed with other trees in masses, its light, airy, and graceful con- tour never fails to arrest attention. The seeds are ripe and ready for collecting during Septem- ber, and may be sown at once or kept in a dry, airy place till spring, turning them occa- sionally to prevent moulding. In spring they should be sown on thoroughly prepared ground of a light, sandy texture, and as they are of a small size they should be but sparingly covered with soO. When the plants are of sufficient size they should be planted out in nursery Hnes and allowed plenty of space to encourage the forma- tion of stout, stocky young trees. The powers of natural reproduction of the Birch are very great. Young trees of some 10 feet high and upwards are often loaded with seed, and as these are of a light texture, they are easily wafted away by the wind to a considerable dis- tance and lodged upon the surface of the ground and in chinks and fissures of rocks, and although there is sometimes very little soil on such places, yet the seeds germinate freely, and it is both in- structive and interesting to watch their progress and the tenacity with which they will struggle for life under adverse circumstances. On a piece of bog land on an estate in the north of Ireland the proprietor had a lot of Birch trees planted here and there rather widely apart, with the view of improving the dull, sombre appearance of the place, but as soon as these trees got rooted and established they began to produce seed, and within a short period the surface of the ground was found to be well stocked with young seedling trees. These have been thinned several times, and at present there is a fine crop of trees upon the ground. Although the Birch does not attain a very large size on bleak, exposed situations, yet it can be grown pretty thickly upon the ground, and as tlie wood is principally used by the turner for making spools and other purposes, all shapes and sizes of trees are looked after and command a ready sale. Many years ago, the price which I realiaeil for this class of timber delivered at the wharf for shipment was from 83. to 10s. per ton, but the supply being unefiO() feet of boards, which consti- tuted the entire exterior covering of a large farm barn. Earlier in the presept century another tree. three miles distant from this one, was felled, the stump measuring 6 feet in diameter and the height 124 feet. It furnished a large amount of fine tim- ber, and the annual growth being quite distinct on the stump. It was found to have been ninety years old when Columbus discovered America. Bryant, in his excellent treatise on forest trees as growing in the Western States, says that the Tulip tree sometimes attains the height of 140 feet, with a diameter of 8 feet or 9 feet, and, with the excep- tion of the Bnttonwood, is the largest deciduous tree of American forests. In Hough's "Elements of Forestry," the author states that it grows to a mag- nificent size, in good situations reaching 100 feet or even 150 feet in height, and from 6 feet to 9 feet and even 10 feet in diameter. — Country Gentleman. THE WHITE CEDAR. (CUPBESSUS THTOIDES.) Rabelt [is it that this handsome Conifer is seen in anything like good form, yet the aspect of a fine specimen pointed out to me lately fully corro- borated an old idea that I had about the value of this Cypress, or Cedar, as an ornamental tree, even in the colder portions of the British Isles. The specimen to which I refer is growing in a peaty loam and in a well-sheltered piece of ground between two plantations of Birch, the aspect being northern. Side by side, but at good distances apart, are growing along with this white Cedar some of the largest, best-furnished, and most healthy-look- ing trees of the old genus Chamiccyparis that I have ever seen, specimens that have created a feeling of jealousy in the minds of more than one of onr Conifer lovers. My object at present is, however, to point out the particular class of soil in which this interesting and rare Conifer does well, for, judging by the half -starved and only partially- furnished specimens one generally sees, even in mild southern districts, its cultivation is cer- tainly not well understood. It delights in a damp- ish, even damp loamy peat, and will even put on its best form in pure, but partially-reclaimed peat, and the fine specimen above referred to is growing in the latter class, and at not a hundred yards dis- tance from an old and gnarled Birch, whose lofty head and ample proportions testify to the fact that it also is quite at home under similar circumstances to those which suit so well the distinct white Cedar. At the time of planting a large pit was dug for the Cedar, and a portion of the peat substi- tuted by loam and road-scrapings, all three well mixed together and finely broken up, and in this compost has grown what I consider the finest specimen of the white Cedar in this oountry. Let us now compare with this tree another of the same kind, but planted in light soil of a gravelly nature, and where but little moisture is present, and note the difference, for, instead of the bright, healthy foliage and well-furnished stem, a gaunt, semi-starved appearance and thin, pallid foliage are the only reward for nearly a quarter of a century's coddling and care. To have this tree in perfection it is, therefore, well to remember that it is only suited for planting in damp ground and at low elevations, light, sandy soil soon causing even the most healthy plant to assume anything but a pleasing or desirable appearance. Upwards of 150 years ago (in 173(>) this Cypress was introduced by Peter CoUinson, and yet it is, comparatively speak- ing, a rare tree, and this probably owing to its being planted in soils and situations that were unfavour- able for its perfect development. At all stages of its growth, and when in the flush of health, this Cypress is a tree of great beauty, the evenly spread- ing branches, rich glaucous foliage, and dense pyramidal outline being its chief characteristics. As a timber tree it will not likely be of great value in this country, although in its native Canadian wilds it is highly prized, the wood being light, fine grained, easily worked, and remarkable for its last- ing qualities. For articles of domestic use it is much sought after, and enters largely into the manufacture of tubs, pails, and other utensils where strength and lightness are the main requisites, while fences erected of the white Cedar are almost indestructible. A. D. W. THE GARDEN. 69 No. 845. SATURDA K, Jan. 28, 1888. Vol. XXXII f. "This is an Art WWcli does mend Nature : change it rather ; but The Art itself is li^ a.tvre." Shakespeare, TOO MANY PEARS. A NURSERYMAN told u8 the other day that he hid about 240 kinds of Pears ! But he had only a stock of one that we should consider, beyond all doubt, a first-class fruit for Britain ! No wonder, owing to the confusion of too many kinds ! The grafting, budding, and keeping in good condition of so many are beyond the powers of any nurseryman who has other work to do. Everlasting recommendation of novelties un- tried in, or unfit for, our climate lands us in the absurd position of having a great number of kinds, learned books on distinguishing them. Pear congresses to add to the number, and no good fruit ! That is the truth of most of our gardens, and the statement cannot be doubted by those who know what is done in other parts of Europe. The supply in our markets, beyond the few common early kinds, is ridiculous. Some good Pears come from France in the autumn, but after Christmas it is rare to see any good Pear but Easter Beurru in the markets, and these are grown on walls in France. Among the kinds in the nursery in question, while one could not find Pears suit- able for growing in England, there was Diichesse d'Angoulucne, an excellent Pear in France, but of no use in our country, and only to be grotro by coddling, and then the fruit is nothing compared with what it is in Touraine. Those who want to know this fine fruit at its best should get it as it comes in boxes in the autumn to Covent Garden, and if they compare the best fruit with what one sees in England, they will see it is like other Pears which we have accepted at their French and Belgian valuations, but which are not suited for our country at all. Among the great number of known kinds it is possible to get a few suitable for oxir country. Wherever one goes in fruit-growing districts lie generally sees a leading sort which does satisfactorily, as, for example, the Duchess in the case we mention, Easter Beurre on walls in France, grown so largely and paying so well, and the Newtown, Baldwin, and Northern Spy Apples in America. The very number of kinds cultivated would prevent good fruit being grown. Although they all belong to one species, it is curious the ditFerences amongst them, and the diflerent treatment they require for their perfect fruit- ing. Either for market or the table only the best should be grown. Pears require a certain amount of study and labour before knowing the wants of each kind, and that could not be given to many kinds in any one garden. One first- rate fruit for each month would be ample in a private garden. We should be very glad to find even one first-rate Pear, in February or March, in any English garden. We should not accept anything like the miserable specimens of Beurre Ranee, recently sent to us, as a fine type of a winter Pear for our country ! Rigid, intelligent selection should take the place of the old haphazard Pear congress, fat catalogue collection, and after that should come the filling of our fruit-rooms and markets with first-rate fruit of our own growing. Really fine Pears at this season should be worth 12s. a dozen, and there would be no trouble in getting it in the market of any large city on the Conti- nent or here. First-class Pear culture is worth doing for other reasons than the supply of our own tables. In these days, when some of the more important branches of our agriculture fail to pay, this may be worth considering. The Pears below named are the beginning of our standard selection. If we coitld get a dozen as good we should be satisfied. Each is to be numbered, and we will stop at a fixed number, certainly not beyond twenty-five. The gardener should know the good Pears by heart. It would be easier for him than moving about in a maze of trees, half of them unknown to him. What is not worth knowing is not worth growing, and no Pear is worth growing that is not first rate when you get it. We cannot presume to teach the market grower, whose tenure of land is so uncertain, and who, to obtain quick returns, plants the Hessle Pear and the Keswick Codlin, and there often stops. But Tee Garden appeals to pri- vate growers, who have seldom to face a short tenure. Omitting very early Pears, which may be fancied by the grower, but which we wiU not count, we select : — Jargonelle. Marie Louise. Doyenne du Comicb. Winter Nelis. Josephine de Malines. There is no doubt that some people may find these not all they could desire, but we have proof that they do admirably in various parts of the country, and they should be cultivated where they can be grown best. The next thing we do will be to pnblish the history and culture of all the above, and we shall be glad if our readers, more particularly those in the north of England and Scotland, will give Tis any notes regarding them. My selection of the six best Pears for the country generally (north and south) would be : Jargonelle, Williams' Bon Chretien, Emile d'Heyst, fine, even in Scotland, the tree hardy and most fertile ; Beurr6 Superfin, as fine as Marie Louise, certainly hardier; Josephino' de Malines, Doyenne du Cornice. These AWays ripen in an adverse season, and I omit Winter Nelis and Marie Louise, because the trees are very tender. Even large trees were greatly killed back by the last year's frost. Marie Louise is very fine on open trees — when you get it, but is often " turnipy " from a wall. My six are good anyhow. — G. Bunyard, Ma'ulstune. I AI1.4.TN venture to direct attention to the Jersey Gratioli Pear, hoping that some of your correspondents will give their experi- ence of its quahties, as it appears to me very strange that its merits should have been almost entirely overlooked. I tasted it first in Jersey, and found it so excellent that I planted it without delay, and for the last twenty years, on the cold clay of Warwickshire, it has never failed either in quantity or quality. It ripens in long succession at a season when good Pears are not too plentiful, succeeding Williams' Bon Chriitien, and preceding the flush of Octo- ber Pears. It has a very distinct and piquant flavour, is juicy, and more refreshing than any other Pear within my knowledge, and forms a handsome jiyramid. Possibly, in explanation of the general silence in reference to it, it may not realise this character on some soils, but I have no knowledge of its failure anywhere. I believe it deserves a trial in the most limited collection, as I do not know a dozen better Pears. — Edmund Tonks, Packwood, Knowle. Rose Oarden. T. w. girdlbstone. ROSE STOCKS. The question of Rose stocks continues to be a fruitful theme for discussion, and has this season been again taken up with increased energy. There can be little doubt that the mass of evidence in favour of dwarf Brier as opposed to Manetti goes on steadily accumu- lating, although the latter recently found an un- expected advocate in one of the great trade growers who had hitherto been regarded as the particular champion of Brier cuttings. It must, however, be borne in mind that in speaking of stocks nurserymen are liable to consider only their behaviour as maidens, and that also chiefly in regard to their production of blooms available for exhibition; whereas innumerable amateur Rose growers do not exhibit, and are mainly concerned with the constitution of plants as cut-backs. For such growers the statement that plants on Manetti must be grown in order to obtain blooms in time for the early shows is entirely beside the point ; for while it is an un- disputed fact that maiden blooms are produced on Manetti earlier than on any other stock, and on seedling Brier latest of all, those on Brier cuttings coming midway between, yet it is equally notorious that, as established cut-backs, there is no appreciable dilTerence in the time of flowering of plants on the three stocks. When it is contended in favour of the Manetti that a collection of Roses on this stock planted more than twenty years ago is still flourishing, there is a temptation to ask the names of the varieties included, and also whether they have been examined to see if the roots are still those of Manetti or are the scion's own. There are not many of the Hybrid Perpetuals now most universally grown that would have been very generally distributed by the year (say) 1865, while there were many sorts now rarely seen but then in vogue which were vigorous enough to grow luxuriantly on any (or no) stock. It must also not be forgotten that plants that were originally on Manetti and are still flourishing are often found in reality to be on their own roots, the stock having long since perished. In the interesting series of papers on the subject of Rose stocks in the recently published " Rosarian's Year-Book," the Rev. J. H. Pem- berton puts the whole matter in few words when he says : ' ' For permanent plants, grow seedling Brier ; for maiden blooms, grow Brier cuttings ; for plants to bud from, grow Manetti." Here is the real merit of Manetti as a stock, so often previously alluded to — its horrid merit of convenience. Roses on it make magnificent maiden shoots, which, when abundant buds for working have been cut from them, yet remain fine saleable plants ; it is the easiest stock to multiply and to bud, but, says Mr. Pemberton, "^as cut-backs, I do not like them. This, indeed, is their weakest point, for they lose heart when pruned either hard or long, and break very feebly." In the face of so strongly expressed an ojiinion from so able and extensive a grower as the ex-amateur champion, such points as the ten- dency to coarseness in maiden blooms on Manetti and the impossibUity of growing on it either Teas or Noisettes or many of the smooth-wooded Hy- 70 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 28, 1888. brid Perpetuals out of doors appear quite minor details. But even the would-be apologist for the Manetti has to admit that it "has this dis- advantage— the plants are more liable to mildew and rust, and go oif flower quicker than those on Brier" ("Rosarian's Year-Book," p. 20). Nor, judging from the same series of papers, , is it only in the south that the Manetti is un- popular, for it seems even mors disliked in South Yorkshire than in Berks and Essex ; and though Mr. Burrell points out the desirability of growing plants on Manetti in old gardens where the soil is rich in humus in the cooler northern districts, yet he seems to believe in the Brier for Cambridgeshire. Mr. Mawley in the opening paper gives, in a table drawn up with his usual clearness and precision, the results of growing identical varieties side by side on Manetti, seedling Brier, and cutting Brier, in his Hertfordshire garden, which prove the first- named to have finished an exceedingly bad third in a field of three. It is not worth while to go into details about varieties that will grow on Manetti, but there is one Rose which amateurs almost everywhere will be endeavouring to increase their stock of, and which they will certainly find it desirable to bud on Brier in preference to Manetti, namely, Her Majesty, in whose ca?e there seems no question that Manetti spells "mildew.'' By the end of the summer plants of the great Rose on this stock were leafless, and the upper part of their shoots so white with mildew as to give the impression that they had been whitewashed. Moreover, some forty plants had not pro- vided more than one or two blooms that were not too rough and coarse to exhibit ; whereas an equal number on Brier cuttings close by all carried good, well -finished flowers, retained their foliage, and did not get mildew until they caught it from the plants on Manetti. SEEDLING ROSES. The experience of Kose growers 'n regard to the raising of Roses from seeds and thfdr conduct after- wards, as recorded in The Gardei^, Jan. 14 (pp. 27 and 28), is likely to prove as useful as it is interest- ing. As the American writer remarks, there is no mystery about the raising of Roses from seeds. The chief mystery as well as barrier to success is the prevalence of mildew among the youthful seed- lings. Unfortunately, too, it seems as if the finer the strains and the more choice the varieties, the more subject they are to mildew. Be that as it may, the strongest and most robust-growing seedlings are, as a rule, worthless. So implicitly is this believed by some, that the strongest and longest-jointed seedlings are rogued out to give more 1 ight and ai r to the weaker ones with greater possibilities of quality. It would be most interesting as well as useful to have the experience of such successful raisers as Mr. Bennett, the two Pauls, and others. It has also been sug- gested that there seems at times something like a connection between vigour and singleness as well as colour, though there is hardly sufficient proof to sustain the assumption that the more precocious the growth of seedling Roses, the fewer the petals and the higher their colours. It would also be interesting to learn how far single or semi-double Roses may be doubled by time and culture, and how much has been done in this direction. As the single Rosts have mostly been rogued out as soon as seen, it is feared that this field for improvement has been but fcantily culti- vated, it at all. It is hoped that the growth of single Roses now becoming fashionable in gardens may at least afford time for the transformation of some ot the more promising single Roses into double or semi-double ones; while it is certain that not a few of the many thousands of single Roses discarded at sight might have proved well worthy of a place in bed, border, or shrubbery. The latter might have been in fact marvellously brightened up and improved had the thousands and tens of thousands ot brilliant single Roses destroyed at sight been planted in the shrubberies and allowed time and space for development. Who shall estimate what we may have lost of vigour and colour among our seedlings through our unwillingness to afford them time and area for their development. Is there any rule of nature or canon of art that must needs cut, curb, cabin and confine a Rose — single or double seedlings, or other- wise— into the narrowest limits, while allowing free scope and most ample area for the fullest natural development of Box, Yew, Laurel, Lilac, and indeed all other shrubs ? Only those who have seen single, or semi-double, and some of our freer double Roses, clothed with all the imposing dignity and matchless grace with which Nature endows them when emancipated from the curbing and cuttings ot art, can form the faintest idea of their artistic merits for forming landscapes. It is more than probable, too, that were all the more vigorous seedlings afforded a chance of mak- ing semi-wild groups on lawns, in shrubberies, or home woods, some of them would develop new features of habit, vigour, hardiness, beauty, or fragrance that would render them specially valuable for the enrichment and enlivenment of existing landscapes or the formation of new ones. Every advance in the way of fragrance should be carefully noted and jealously preserved. It may be true that a Rose by any other name would smell as sweet, though I doubt it. But a Rose that does not smell at all is hardly worthy of its name — in fact, little better than a gay impostor — while those that smell something like semi-putrid water or bad meat— Queen Flora, forgive the com- parison— should be rooted out and destroyed. Were our raisers of seedlings as intent on new odours, and the enriching and deepening of old ones as they have been in spreading out the petals like pancakes, or heaping petal on petal until, through their prodigality, promising blooms have been wrecked in dire confusion, or their hearts hardened into frightful abortions, then, indeed, would our roseries out of doors and in have been infinitely sweeter than they are to-day. Say, ye great enrichers of our Rose gardens at home and abroad, is it any more difficult to produce or enrich an odour than paint a colour, control a form and impart substance to a Rose ? or is it be- cause odours do not tell in prizes that while most other qualities have advanced more or less rapidly, the odours of Roses have been almost stationary or retrogressive. Here is a good field for the National Rose Society, and I trust it will at once enter into its cultivation in one ot two ways — either by offer- ing liberal prizes at all its shows for stands of the most fragrant Roses, or excluding from its shows all Roses that are either not fragrant, or have a disagreeable odour. Then no Rose should be certi- ficated by the Royal Horticultural Society or other authority unless it is fragrant. By such and other means Roses might be expected to improve as much in fragrance as they have done in colour, size, form, substance — in two words, quality and beauty. D. T. F. SHORT NOTES.— ROSES. TTew Roses. — The number of novelties offered for the current sesison reaches the unprecedented total of more than 100 varieties, various raisers on the Con- tinent contributing tt3 varieties, of which one-third are Teas. The coloured plate in the Journal des Roues for .January represents one of the new Roses of this season. Souvenir tie Mine. .T. Metral, described as a Tea, although it is evidently a climbing Hybrid, and appears to carry on the race of the Waltham climbers. The variety is said to have been raised from Mnie. Berard, fertilised by the Hybrid Perpetual Eugftne Furst, and it should prove a valuable addition to the few good red climliing Roses, if it is as free from any dingy purplish shade as it afipears in the plate, in which tlie half-expanded flower might be accepted as a faithful rfjireBiMitation of the charming, but dwarf-growing Hybrid Tea Camoens. Rose Madame Georges Bruant. — In the Journal des Roaes for January there is also an eu- Sraving of the hybrid rugosa, Madame Georges Bru- J'nt (Bruant), which was raised from the red-flowered *'ype, R. rugosa, fertilised by the pollen of the white Tea Sombreuil. This hybrid is attracting a good deal of attention on account of its novelty and dis- tinctness. The plant is said to be as hardy and vigorous as R. rugosa, which it closely resembles in appearance; but the semi-double flowers are pure white, very fragrant, produced in trusses of from six to twelve, and the long buds are described as charm- ing for cutting. As it is also said to be thoroughly perpetual, Madame Georges Bruant's appearance will be awaited with keen interest. — T. W. G. Propagating. Lilies. — Sometimes on taking up a Lily bulb It will be found that, owing to an Injury or to some other cause, the centre of the plant_has become de- cayed, and nothing is left but a handful of scales. Should the bulb be one of L. auratum or of L. longi- florum, the probability is that each scale will have formed a small bulb, and whUe all Lilies more or less do this, the two mentioned above are far more prolific in this respect than any other kinds. It is therefore evident that if these small bulbs are placed under conditions favourable to growth they will continue to increase till they reach flowering size. L. longiflorum will do so without much trouble, but L. auratum is very fastidious in its re- quirements, especially during its earlier stages. We sometimes hear of this Lily being raised from seeds or scales and naturalising it in this country, but this is somewhat difficult, as failures are pretty frequent; meanwhile, the fact remains that an almost unlimited supply of young plants can be raised. It is a significant fact that the Dutch bulb growers do not send us any L. auratum nor the allied L. Krameri, as they wculd no doubt do if they could grow Ihem in that country, for the bulbs would arrive before those from Japan, and conse- quently, if good, command a fair price. L. longi- florum, on the other hand, grows freely from scales. There is, however, a great deal of difference in the varieties with regard to this matter, the slowest of increase being tbe long-tubed eximium, and the most prolific L. Harrisi. A good crop of this may be obtained by taking off any loose scales when potting the bulbs that are intended for flowering and placing them under conditions favourable to the formation of roots. In the case of large bulbs there are on the outside often two or three scales which are very loose, and can easily be removed without injuring the future display of bloom. Many of these scales are naturally jointed just in the middle, and when this is the case they may be at once broken in two, as each part will form a small bulb. These scales must be treated just like seeds, that is, placed as thickly as possible without touching each other in pans or boxes, and covered with light sandy soil. These pans or boxes must be drained thoroughly, and filled to within an inch of the top with a compost consisting of peat, loam, and sand, the whole sifted moderately fine. It placed in a gentle heat the joung plants quickly make their appearance, when as soon as sufficiently developed they may be potted off. So quickly do they grow, that by the summer these joung plants can be planted out, and will form nice little bulbs the first season; indted, a few of the strongest will flower. Of course only a few will bloom early, and those that do so will only produce one puny blossom. A very good method, and one that gives far less trouble than this, is to prepaie a place on a well-diaiced border and cover with a frame, as so treated the joung plants will not need to be disturbed. In either case, if the place is thoroughly drained, it is better to leave the bulbs undisturbed the first winter, protecting them from frost with dry leaves. Fern, or some other material. So treated, the greater number will flower the next season, and in the autumn may be taken up, when they are available for potting and growing under glass for indoor decoration if required. Besides this method of increasing these varieties of L. longiflorum, many of the bulbs after flowering divide into two or three, while small bulbils are formed on the underground portion of the stem, Jan. 28, 1888.] THE GARDEN. n especially if they are buried rather deeply. Some kinds increase very rapidly by means of division, notably L. elegans or Thunbergianum and its numerous varieties, L. umbellatum, which is so largely imported from Holland every year, and L. crooeum. Others, again, increase in this way, but very slowly, and of these mention may be made of L. monadelphum, pomponium, tenuifolium, and pulchellum. They, however, all produce plenty of seeds, which germinate readily enough. Those with creeping rhizomes, represented by L. parda- linum, puberulum, superbum, and canadense, are all easily increased by division; while some that can seldom be coaxed to grow are L. Washingtonianum, rabescens, Humboldti, columbianum,and Bloomeri- anum. The small bulbils in the axils of the leaves afford a ready means of propagating the Tiger Lilies and L. bulbiferum, for wherever they come in contact with the ground they at once take root and commence to grow. T. Fruit Garden. W. COLEMAN. NIGHT VENTILATION OF FRUIT HOUSES. The advantages that may be derived from a regular system of night ventilation are not so fully appreciated by the rising generation of gardeners as they ought to be. Many young men having charge of fruit houses look upon a current of sweet, fresh air as an enemy, and most religiously close every ventilator and light when a shower of summer rain is falling, appa- rently oblivious to the fact that the moist, genial 'atmosphere which it produces is of more value thanl the close, high and dry temperature in which their trees and plants are compelled to languish. The past school of gardeners, who allowed a margin of 2° above and 2° below the hard-and-fast line, had at least one leg to stand upon, as they had old-fashioned houses, from which which they could not, if they would, ex- clude a constant percolation of fresh air at every lap, and those were not a few in the roofs, sides, and ends. But all this has passed away. Cheap timber and large squares of thick glass, duty free, now enable the horticultural builder to erect houses as impervious to the ingress of fresh and the egress of foul or heated air as a Wardian case, and so perfect now is their me- thod of shutting out the gardener's best friend, that lively discussions on the shading or non- shading of Muscat houses are not unfrequent. In justice [to the horticultural architect, it is only fairjto say the arrangements for letting the fresh air in and the vitiated air out are on a very liberal scale ; but the ability to reduce the tem- perature of a vinery to that of the external atmosphere on the hottest day in summer, by opening the top lights first to let all the rarified air out, and then creating a cutting draught by turning the front crank, is not ventilation ; it is the foster-parent of scalding, rust, shanking, mildew, and red spider. And yet plants, like animals, require a continuous supply of fresh air ; but it is by the_front ventilators that it should be admitted, and in a way that it will pass under or through the stacks of hot-water pipes before it comes in contact with the occu- pants. It will then mingle with that of the house, and, provided the top ventilators are sufficiently open to allow vitiated air to escape, the house will be kept constantly full and the cutting draught will be avoided. I recollect, a few years ago, being taken through a range of double-glazed Orchid houses, in which the plants were by no means happy — neither was I, but was very glad to get out of the stuffy stew to inhale a breath of fresh oxygen. These poor Orchids had to endure it day and night, fortunately not for any great length of time, as the owner found he must change his treatment, or lose his plants. The next time I passed through the same houses the bricklayer's chisel had been introduced, and a stream of deliciously fresh air at every few feet was working upwards from the ground line, or a little below it, and after threading the hot- water pipes it conveyed life- sustaining food to the plants. This front venti- lation, by night as well as by day, is still going on, and Indian Orchids, to which a low night temperature and rough winds in their native habitats are no strangers, are a.^ healthy and free flowering as any in the kingdom. If Orchids resent coddling, what shall we say in favour of the night ventilation of Pines, and Grapes, and Peaches I 1 say, and persist in saying, give them more front air ; never mind the " chink " at the top, as it lowers the temperature and lets out the moisture when the occupants are actively feeding through the night. Let them recuperate in a fresh, free atmosphere in which the most delicate person can breathe and wish to linger, and although the mean temperature may run a few degrees too low for the express forcer, they will meet the morning light like giants refreshed ; they will make up for time apparently lost, as they will stand and enjoy a high temperature when, for a few hours, the houses are closed with sun and moisture on bright afternoons. If Grapes and Peaches must be forthcoming by a certain date, it is easy enough to start a little earlier than usual, and to force from the outset with front air, especi- ally through the night, increasing it as the season advances, always, be it understood, with or without the hackneyed top " chink," pi-o- vided the house is kept full and not reduced to the condition of a room with the door and win- dow wide open. Grapes, as a rule, under fair cropping, will then be free from spider and riist, black instead of red, and with a deep, dense bloom. Pines will not run to crowns a foot or more in height, and bud-dropping, of which we have heard so much of late, will be less preva- lent in the Peach house. In the Cucumber and Melon house or pit the effect will be equally satisfactory, as a body of impure, stagnant air acting on the collars of the plants aggravates the disease, and is very often the cause of the much dreaded canker. These plants we know revel in tropical heat and atmospheric moisture, but the latter must not hang about to become stagnant and produce confervee on the surface of the beds and walls, neither need it if proper attention is paid to ground-line ventilation. Fears. — There are certain sorts of Pears which maintain their quality under very varying circum- stances, and there is a general agreement amongst growers concerning them. Such, for example, are Jargonelle, Williams' Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise, Doyenni? du Cornice — all of which must be included in any collection. In addi- tion to the above, I may name others which can be grown successfully in this district. They are Doyenne d'Etg, a very early, prolific little Pear, sweet and juicy in most seasons ; Beurrfi d'Amanlis, B. Superfin, Fondante d'Automne, Beurr^ Hardy, Doyenne Boussoch, GIou Morceau, Beum; d'Anjou, B. d'Aremberg, Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Knight's Monarch, Bergamote d'Esperen, Easter Beurre, Ne Plus Meuris, Beurre Ranee, and Olivier de Serres. These are well-known Pears, and, where space permits, should obtain a place and the protec- tion of a wall. In addition to the above I have grown with more or less success, according to season, Gansel's Bergamot, Seckel, which passes away too quickly to be of use ; Brown Beurrf, Con- seiller de la Cour, Beurre Dubuisson, a little-known, but excellent Pear; Huysbe's Victoria, and Prince Consort, good last year ; Fortunee Belga, Beurr^ Diel, Duchesse de Mars, Beurrfi Supn'me, Ne Plus Meuris, Prince Napoleon, Doyennd d'Alenijon, Ur- baniste. Van Mens Leon Leclerc. Larger Pear.=, such as Souvenir du Congr&s, Pitmaston Duchess, Duchesse d'Angouleme, General Todtleben, Presi- dent Alphonge, Beurre Clairgeau, have the merit ef size, but are deficient in quality. Souvenir du Con- gres may be excepted, but it passes so rapidly from ripeness to rottenness, that unless watched by the hour the right moment for taking it at its best is lost. If my collection were to be limited to twelve sorts, I should grow Jargonelle, Bon Chretien, Beurre Superfin, Marie Louise, BeurrS Dubuisson, Doyenncj du Comice, Beurre d'Aremberg, Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, Knight's Monarch, Easter Beurre, and Beurre Eanoe. — W. I., Bclmr. GOOD PEARS. Beikg very much interested in the discussion now taking place in The Garden as to the merits of various Pears suitable for general cultivation, I send you the following notes : — My experience of the different varieties was principally gained when gardener to the late Earl of Chesterfield (better known as Sir H. Scudamore-Stanhope), of Holme Lacy, Hereford, who made the cultivation of the Pear a special study both in this country and in France, where he resided for several years. The soil at Holme Lacy is well adapted for Pear culture, so that if a variety had any merit as regards flavour, it had every chance. The Duchess and Easter Beurre were grown under various forms and aspects, in all of which the former was always gritty, but very prolific. The Easter Beurr6 was seldom melting, and when it was fit to eat my late employer used to say that the flavour was not equal to that of the fruit grown in France. As a rule I have found that the hand- some large Pears are deficient in flavour. The vinous-flavoured Pears were the favourites. Such varieties as Williams' Bon Chretien and Gansel's Bergamot were not allowed to be sent to table. Out of over 200 varieties the following were about the only varieties that were considered worthy of be- ing used for dessert : Beurr^ dAmanlis, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Beurr(5 Soperfin, Beurre Hardy, Marie Louise, Thompson's, Doyenne du Comice, Beurrfi d'Aremberg, Winter Nelis, Glou Morceau, Josephine de Malines, Bergamote d'Esperen, and Olivier de Serres, and these we could rely upon annually. I consider that there would be no difficulty what- ever in confining the number to twenty-four. For my own part, I do not think a collection would be complete without Jargonelle and Williams' Bon ChriStien. Beurre de Jonghe is a good Pear, and if it was generally cultivated, I believe it could be reported on favourably. Fondante d'Automne is a delicious Pear when taken at the right time, and by gathering it at intervals the season may be pro- longed. I know that the birds attack it sooner than any other variety. Zephirin Gregcire with us had a tendency to rot at the core. Beurre d'Aremberg comes much better flavoured and finer on the Pear stock than on the Quince, and the same may be said of Winter Nelis. Beurre Superfin is much better flavoured when grown against a trellis or as a pyramid than when grown against a wall. I do not think any late Pear should be condemned if only grown as a pyramid or bush ; they are better from a south or west wall. As a rule those varieties which ripen say up to the middle of November are better flavoured in the south when grown against a trellis or as pyramids. The Seckel is apf reciated by many people, and I think it is best when grown in the open. A YouKQ. Ahberley Hall, Stourport. Medlar preserve. — Mr. Rivers, of Sawbridge- worth, exhibited before the fruit committee of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 10th inst. a pot of Medlar jam, which was pronounced delicious. The jam had a soft brown or honey-liI.-e appearance, and was of a very refined character. Medlars liave_ rela- tively few admirers. They are notoriously unfit for food until rotten, so runs the phrase, but really when sleepy, and they wear an objectionable appearance, and are not pleasant to handle. Always a pretty tree —in fact, quite of ornamental appearance— throughout the season, the Medlar is not much grown, because its 72 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 28, 1888. fruits are so indifferently acceptable. That tliey can be converted into a delicious preserve is a new recom- mendation, and the Medlar may obtain fresh popu- larity.— A. D. Wellington Apple and the frost. — The great frosts of 1880-81 and 1878-79 (I cannot quite fix the year.-) killed back most of the young Wellington Apples and severely injured older trees, but since then they have recovered. Cellini has suffered in the same way, so that I now consider it hopeless as an orchard kind. — G. BUNTARD. GOOSEBERRIES IN MARKET GARDENS. Whilst collections of some thirty or forty varieties of Gooseberries are grown in trade nurserie.=, it would seem as if there was still a demand for variety, which the Gooseberry affords in no incon- siderable degree. We can have them either very large or small, in several colours, also rough and smooth, and then, not least, some are very sweet, while others are acid. But whilst the nurserymen continue to produce and maintain all these varieties, it is very certain that only a limited number of them find a place in most private gar- dens ; whilst in the huge breadths of the market gardens some two or three kinds seem ample for market wants. No doubt some market gardens furnish the smaller and pleasantly-flavoured fruits for special demand, but the great mass of growers fight shy of such very uncertain produce. To them a crop is of the first importance, and a good crop of fine fruits is indispensable if profit is to result. It is also needful that the crop should be a quick one and readily marketed. Necessity, therefore, lite- rally compels the reduction of market kinds of Gooseberries to some two or three which are hardy, prolific, and produce fruit of good size and early. Anyone may have Gooseberries in abundance to come in with the glut, but it is the iirst early gathering of fair-sized fruits that is profitable. Thus we find that the markets are chiefly supplied ■with Lancashire Lad, Crown Bob, and Whitesmith varieties, the first-named by far the most popular, and the second one coming next in order of growth. It is, however, rather the earlier, and it escaping the late spring frosts will furnish the earlier gather- ings. And yet it is neither so hardy nor so prolific as the Lancashire Lad, which mainly supplies the London and other markets. Whitesmith is yet but little grown, but in the majority of cases new plan- tations are made up from the two first-named ones. This locality (West Middlesex) sends out annually many thousands of small, two-year-old plants, large quantities of which go even into Kent, and that very large numbers have been already disposed of shows that there is no falling off in general planting, or that foreign or any other competition is checking speculation in fruit-growing. Certainly, in that direction, there are few safer ones than in the ex- tensive culture of Gooseberries for market, as bushes planted in good holding soil, clean and well manured, will furnish successional crops at a mode- rate cost for some twenty years, and it will be hard indeed if out of that period some exceptionally profitable seasons do not result. Gooseberries are subject to few physical ills, their robust growth, which renders hard pruning every year indispensable, being the chief one. The most harm done to the bushes comes from the birds in winter destroying the buds, an evil which is least felt on large breadths, and may be checked by a liberal use of powder and shot. The next is the occasional attacks of caterpillars, but this evil may often be prevented by removing some few inches of the top soil under the bushes into the intervening spaces, and digging it in deeply, replacing this soil with some from the open ground, and, finally, there is the danger of injury to the young blooms from late spring frosts. This latter is hard to check, except by heavy netting, but that is not possible in the case of considerable breadths. Generally it is found to minimise the evil if the bushes are not too hard pruned, as the leafage is then all the more dense. Still farther, if the bushes have over them standard trees some little protection is afforded. On the whole, it would seem as if neither of these three evils were of frequent occurrence, as good Gooseberry crops are the rule. That of the past season was a moderate one, but prices were fairly good. The crop of the preceding year was a heavy one, and there are indications from the plumpness of the buds that the crop of the coming season will be a good one also. Naturally the pruning is performed during frosty weather, for the sufficient reasons that other work is checked, and the ground being hard and dry is more fitted to endure the treading which accom- panies pruning. If the bushes have been badly grown, wood is small and weakly, and it is not easy to get a proper supply of cuttings. Where bushes are kept regularly and properly pruned and the culture is good, an ample supply of cutting wood is found. As a rule, unless men's work is otherwise at a standstill, women are employed to gather up and bundle the best or stoutest of the shoots removed by the pruner, and these are carried into a shed, stacked, and covered up with mats until an early opportunity is found to properly prepare them for the planting. This, too, is often done by women, who have from long practice become expert at the work. The cuttings are then prepared, tied in bundles of about 500, and laid by until the soil is ready for planting. Should the weather be open, of course that work is done immediately. The ground is, after being dressed with short manure, dug deeply with the spade, the newly-moved soil being cut down, and the cuttings placed in lines about a foot apart, well fixed, and then left to take their chance. If the spring is at all genial, some 80 to 85 per cent, make root, and grow into neat plants during the season. Very good, well-branched plants have resulted in some seasons from the first year's growth, but, as a rule, it is found desirable to lift the plants in the late autumn, hard prune both roots and heads, and then dibble them out in long rows in newly-moved clean soil where the ensuing year they make stout bushes, and when lifted for sending away are found to have compact clusters of roots, which ensure future life and early fruiting. I think I am correct in stating that such plants are sold wholesale at about 40s. per thousand, certainly cheap enough, and it enables a big breadth to be put down at moderate cost. Of course, with bushes of this kind little fruit can be looked for during the ensuing three years, but the ground may also be partly utilised for other crops, as Strawberries, Daffodils, Wallflowers, Violets, Spinach, Onions, &c., so that there is no risk. From the fourth year onward the fruit produce increases very rapidly, and the average amount per acre on good bushes is enormous. Happily, the fashion for using green fruits for cooking enables the grower to secure a long market, and where the crop is heavy, early gatherings of the finest fruits are not only profitable, but relieve the bushes and assist the development of the remaining fruit. Women here, again, find very profitable employment, for with their hands protected by leather gloves they can gather the fruits with great rapidity. No doubt the practice of gathering green Gooseberries thus early is one of the secrets of that free-bearing which is so remarkable in the Gooseberry, as the bushes are not over-taxed. When possible, quite two-thirds of the berries are gathered green, as ripe fruits find little favour, and should wet weather prevail, they split rapidly. On the whole, there seems to be ample evidence that the Gooseberry is one of the most profitable of market fruits. A. D. it against a south wall in a good loam, such as Melons may be grown in, and to see that it is on the Quince stock. My ti-ees of this sort are all horizontally trained, bear remarkably well, the branches being about a foot apart. — J. Garland, Killerton, Exeter. Messrs. Bunyard and Co., of Maidstone, have kindly sent ue a photograph of this deUcious Pear ; but we fear, however carefully engraved, that a satisfac- toi-y result would not be obtained. SHORT NOTES.— FRUIT. Melon Apple. — We wish to gather some informa- tion respoetiiig this Apple, and kindly ask our readers to inform us over what area of the United Kingdom it succeeds ? Pear Winter Nelis.— I am glad to see Winter Nelis is well spoken of liy .several of ycmr correspon- dents. Although the quality of its fruit is equalled by that of some other sorts, such as Doyenne du Cornice, Thompson's, i'c, yet when length of seasons and fertility are considered, 1 regard it as unequalled. I Avoulil advise those who lire about to grew it to plaiil FRUITS UNDER GLASS. Stbawbeeries. So far the month has been rainless, dark, foggy and sunless, and forcing, as a natural consequence, has not been quite satisfactory, but the year is young, and the sharp frost now threatening may bring bright days, which will soon make up for the past delay. Should this greatly-needed change drive away the fog which has destroyed so many plants and crops of flowers in and around large towns, but has only retarded them in the country, an effort must be made to redeem lost time by putting on a spurt during the hours of daylight. If, on the other hand, the pressure continues, patience must be the watchword, as it is better to be even a month late than fail altogether. But rain, what has the absence of rain to do with early forcing? A great deal, for not only is the land extremely dry, but springs are low and hothouse cisterns dependent upon roof water have been exhausted long since. Here it is not necessary to dwell upon the effect which the loss of a foot of rain will produce this coming season, but it is necessary to remind all engaged in forcing of the fact that a dry spring favours the spread of insects, especially of red spider, and the Strawberry being so subject to attacks, the most careful attention must be given to plants in every stage of their growth. Contrary to my usual practice, I shall commence my remarks upon the latest plants first, and as these will now be resting in cold pots or possibly plunged to the rims in the open air, the lights and covering on dry days should be entirely removed, as [even dry frost, unless the weather is very severe, is much more beneficial than coddling. The greatest drawback in frosty weather is the bursting of the pots by the frozen balls, but, provided they are well plunged up to, if not over, the rims, they will take very little harm, whilst watering, just now absolutely necessary, can be performed with safety. It is not usual to water late Strawberries in January, but apparently we are entering the second of a series of dry years, and when it is so well known that want of water is the forerunnner of living pests and mildew, the first consideration must be a judicious, but plenti- ful supply of this element. As space offers the most promising plants in the smallest pots must be worked forward, first into intermediate pits, then into the Strawberry house proper, or, lacking this, into the most suitable structure, where close to the glass they can be brought forward slowly. Cleanli- ness at the outset being half the battle, each pot should be well washed, the aperture examined to see that worms have not choked the drainage, a condi- tion that will necessitate a thorough soaking with clear lime water to expel them, for beneficial as they may be in deep marly land they are a great nuisance to the (Strawberry forcer. The next operation will be the immersion of the plants in a tub of strong soapsuds or sulphur water, and top-dressing with a mixture of rotten manure and stiff loam preparatory to placing them on the shelves. Sticrcssions. — Plants now in progress cannot be kept too near the glass, and the more air they get without exposure to sudden depressions or cutting draughts, the stronger will be the flower-stems and the bolder the flowers. Let the night temperature range about 50°, but not higher, and 00" by day; examine and water the plants every morning before they are syringed, as moisture from this operation sometimes deceives the eye ; raise the temperature by warming the pipes when the sun favours giving more air, and shut up early with moisture on bright afternoons. As the plants advance green fly may be expected to appear, first upon the young leaves, then upon the trusses, and fatal will be its work if smoking is neglected, as one may as well expect Jan. 28, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 73 Figs from Thistles as fruit from Strawberries that have ' a single fly upon them when the first flower opens. Prevention being better than cure, we now render the foliage distasteful by fumigating two or three times at short intervals, always when it is dry, and syringe well the following morning. Early plants. — As these come into flower they should be placed in a light house or pit where they can have a circulation of warm air passing con- stantly amongst them, and when the pollen becomes ripe and plentiful they must be carefully fertilised every day until the crop is set. If the flowers are very numerous, a few of the weakest may be pinched off each scape before they open, and it will be necessary to press down the foliage with the hand to give those left the benefit of every ray of light and security from condensed moisture. In days gone by it was the practice to keep all hothouse fruits in a very dry atmosphere when in flower, and very often the delicate organs of fructification suffered; now, we find a moderate supply of atmo- spheric moisture through the early part of the day with ventilation highly beneficial, always provided it is not plentiful enough to condense after night- fall. To this end all watering and damping should be performed early in the day, as dryness at the roots at any time is fatal. Cucumbers. Hard and continuous firing to maintain a mini- mum temperature is against old plants that have been some time in bearing and begin to develop a tendency to mildew and spider. Sulphur water or sulphide of potassium, a quarter of an ounce to a gallon of warm water, syringed over the foliage at night and washed off the next morning, will destroy the first and check the second ; but light cropping and good cultivation also are necessary conditions, as overloading and bad feeding go hand in hand with these pests. As growth proceeds the young shoots should be neatly tied in, the worst of the old leaves being' taken off to make room for them, whilst stopping must be regulated by the space still vacant upon any part of the trellis. The weather down to the present time having been so dark, it has not been safe to resume daily syringing, but so soon as the clouds break advantage should be taken of bright days for running up the temperature to 80° or 85", and well bathing the foliage above and below with soft water quite as warm as the air of the house. Daily and hourly attention to these matters of detail will soon work a marked improve- ment in the health and vigour of the oldest and poorest of plants, but their restoration will not be full and lasting unless the roots as well as the tops are kept in good condition. The bottom-heat, what- ever it may have averaged through the winter, should now be increased, say, from 70' to 75° or from 75° to 80°, not by hard firing, but by the reno- vation of the fermenting material with well-worked tan, or, better still, with Oak leaves, which cannot be turned over too often, as the moisture and warmth thus set at liberty keep the atmosphere charged with genial food, and economise syringing when external extremes render its effect fleeting, if not detrimental. Water, as a matter of course, plays a very important part in winter as well as summer culture, and it is to an insufficient supply of this that the failure of plants growing over heated chambers or hot-water pipes not unfre- quently can be traced. Bearing plants in pots, boxes, or narrow beds will take good, warm, diluted liquid at every watering probably two or three times a week; but no rule can be laid down for watering at any time, especially in winter, as so much de- pends upon the condition of the bed and the position of the hot-water pipes. When this element is needed, and it should not be given until it is, one thorough soaking that will penetrate the crocks will do more good than a series of driblets which deceive the eye, as water given in this way only benefits the surface roots, whilst those deeply seated languish in a dust-dry medium. The best top-dressing for Cucumbers is light, rich turfy loam, crushed bones, and old plaster or lime rubble, which should be kept dry and warm ready for use as the roots appear on the surface. If thin layers are placed on the surface, the roughest part being kept near the stems. Cucumbers can be earthed up to any extent during the season, but there comes a time when Spring-son-n planis beat the old ones, and the first batch being now well advanced, if not quite fit for turning out, the hills or ridges should be ready for their reception before they become pot-bound. When the hills are formed upon beds of fermenting material which is constantly sinking, the trellis for two reasons should be constructed and fixed upon a principle that will admit of its being lowered at pleasure ; first, to prevent the stems and roots from being strained or strangled, one of the most com- mon causes of canker; and second, to enable the cultivator to place the foliage quite clear of the glass through the summer months. The best plan, however, is to avoid this danger by forming a solid foundation of broken brick or lime rubble imme- diately above the bottom-heat pipes for the recep- tion of a thin layer of fresh stable litter followed by the compost. Then there will be no sinking, and provided common drain pipes are placed vertically a few feet apart upon the drainage, hot water or diluted liquid can be poured down in any quantity when moisture is needed, but it is not necessary to deluge the surface of the bed. Summer plants should not be pinched until they have climbed quite two-thirds of the trellis, and if more room than is generally allowed between the stems were given to them a great deal of trouble would be saved, whilst a few vigorous plants constantly extending would give the finest and greatest quantity of fruit. PHs and Jra.mes. — Where manure and labour are plentiful, materials for making up manure beds may now be got together and well turned two or three times, more or less, to get rid of rank and dangerous steam by fermentation. When thoroughly sweetened and the violent heat has passed away, brick pits may be filled and the old-fashioned beds made up, plenty of time being allowed for settling before the soil is introduced. Meantime, seeds having been sown in the nursing frame, the young plants should be well advanced in the rough leaf, if not pinched at the third or fourth joint ready for turning out as soon as the compost is thoroughly warmed through and a steady root temperature can be relied upon. The materials used for making up hotbeds are numerous, and include stable manure, tree leaves — Oak and Beech being the best — tan, spent Hops, cotton waste — anything, in fact, that will ferment and hold heat separately or combined for a con- siderable time, but, taken at all points, there is nothing better than the first and second in equal parts, thoroughly incorporated, the bed being made very solid in course of construction. Much as we object to the removal of every leaf as it falls from our noble timber trees, lawns, walks, and roads must be cleared, and so must the stable yard of two articles of home manufacture, not only cheap, but in every stage of decay, containing and giving off all the elements of plant life. These materials, which so many regard as a nuisance, we look upon as the backbone of horticulture, their best and most profitable route to the vegetable and fruit-tree borders lying, as a matter of course, through the frame ground. Thanks to hot water, the making and management of manure beds for Cucumbers and Melons is almost a lost art, but why discard the one when the two combined, whilst saving much labour, produce conditions favourable to the perfect cul- ture of all exotic fruits and plants ] and why worry the overwrought managers of small gardens when a flow-and-return pipe along the front of their Cu- cumber pits would save their cost in a single year ? If time represents money, the time devoted to the renovation of linings, to covering the glass, to watching the ventilation, as a mother watches an infant, to coddling with plants not seldom destroyed by a puff of steam when coming into bearing, and last, but not least, the shortening at both ends of the season of supply must represent a sum that, judiciously laid out, would greatly economise the management and increase the produce of the frame ground. Melons. Leading lights will now have plants in all stages, from the tiny seedling to frail occupants of the trellis, but the majority of growers will be barely on the move ; whilst others, with seeds still in the drawers, will congratulate themselves upon having escaped the most protracted and depressing fog we have experienced for a great number of years. The fog, fortunately, has lifted, and the sun once or twice has tried to penetrate the black pall of vapour which, in a condensed state, would be so useful in our soft-water cisterns, but so far the out- look has not been encouraging, as no amount of artificial heat will compensate for the loss of cheer- ing sunshine. Time, however, is going, and a sup- ply of fresh growing plants must be kept constantly on hand for putting out as the different compart- ments can be got ready for them. To keep up this relay of stock a few seeds should be sown once a fortnight, and, provided the oldest plants are as regularly thrown away, the common danger of starting a colony of red spider in the nursing pit will be avoided. Young plants can be shifted on into larger pots, but unless the variety be new or scarce, they hardly pay for the trouble, as seedlings can be raised so quickly, and all Melon growers know a quick start with plants whose roots have neither been checked nor mutilated is a very im- portant step towards a successful finish. Fruiting pots and ridges now thoroughly warmed through to a temperature of 80° may be planted as soon as the seedlings have commenced making the first rough leaf and the roots have fairly touched the sides of the pots. As Melons will not submit to earthing, the young plants should be kept well up to the level of the rims of the fruiting pots, whilst those placed on ridges should stand on little mounds when all is finished. Water will then draw away from the collars, and, provided they do not sink away from the trellis until the stems attain a crack- ing tension, there will be little danger of canker. Many people think canker is indigenous, if I may use the word, to some pits, whilst another garden is free, but I venture to think and to say it is the management that is at fault; further, that I would undertake to produce canker in the best Melon house in the kingdom. Before the young plants are turned out a neat stick should be placed in each pot or station, and to these they should be trained until they reach the trellis. If laterals start before they reach that structure, they must at once be pinched, but on no account in youth or mature age must an old stem-leaf be broken. The trellis reached, laterals may grow, all that do not show fruit being pinched at the first leaf, when the second break in almost every instance will produce a female flower. As the plant extends nearly all the laterals will show at the first joint, and the roots having made good progress all the flowers should be carefully fertilised, as a choice of two or three fruits of uniform size from this flush will form the crop for ripening. Some varieties of Melons do not show until the points have been pinched out of the leaders; others, like the grand old Golden Per- fection, often set their fruit before they are touched, and these fertile sorts undoubtedly are the best for early forcing. Like Cucumbers, these plants enjoy and require a brisk bottom-heat, say of 75° to 80°. They will stand more, and many get less, but 80° need not be exceeded. This should be steady, and the greater the quantity of fermenting leaves used for pro- ducing it, the cleaner the foliage will be, and of less consequence omission of the baneful practice of daily syringing. W. C. CONCRETING THE BOTTOMS OF WALL BORDERS. Where the subsoil is bad, 6 inches in thickness of concrete is of great use in keeping the roots out of the bad soil. I have met with old gardens where all the principal walls had a concrete foundation to the borders, not only for the Peaches and Apricots, but also for the Plums, Pears, and early Cherries, and this bottom of concrete had much to do with the hale and vigorous appearance of the old trees. But when the flued walls went out of fashion, a las feeling soon grew up about the use of concrete, it being looked on by some of the younger men who had not seen its value in the past as a useless ex- pense. There are positions where concrete is not 74 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 28, 1888. required, but deep rooting is an evil which has more to do with unfruitfulness than any other cause usually assigned by cultivators to account for the barrenness of many fruit trees on walls. In the old days I am thinking of, the concrete usually extended all along the border for two-thirds of its width, but when the sites are marked out for the trees, if the bed of concrete beneath the tree is 6 feet square by 6 inches in thickness, the re- quisite horizontal direction will be given to the roots,'and, if necessary, the extremities, if they take a downward direction, can easily be lifted and brought back, and this wiU give an opportunity of working in a little fresh turfy loam. This will i aduce them to make fibres and keep near the sur- face, for the roots will always go where they can find sufficient food. To plant a wall 100 yards long, say, with Apricots and Peaches 5 yards apart will require twenty concrete stations, which would take about a ton of lime and four loads of screened gravel to make a good job of it, so the cost, even if the gravel had to be purchased, would not be enor- mous. But a mixture of broken bricks, stones, and clinkers and lime will make a good concrete founda- tion, allowing the proportion of lime to be rather greater than when using good clean gravel. E. H. MARKET GARDEN NOTES. Wallflowers. — With a comparatively open winter, for after all we have had but little severe weather, we should, under ordinary conditions, have been obtaining fair cuttings from Wallflower breadths now. The plants are stout, stubby, and healthy, but the bloom is lacking. The drought of last summer is accountable for this, for if plants were put out early they made little growth, and if the soil was too dry to render planting out safe, of course no progress was made in that way. Hence it is that we see Wallflower plants so very dwarf and compact and so flowerless. Growers always select from their earliest, best- habited, and deepest coloured flowers for seed, and an early blooming strain is thus perpetuated. Still, the strain is contingent for early bloom upon early planting and strong summer growth. One large grower, during 1886, having a seed bed of strong young plants from an autumn sowing, thought he would ensure an early quantity of bloom by plant- ing these largely. Fortunately for him, he also planted largely of the spring sowing, as the majority of the autumn-sown plants were killed during the ensuing winter, whilst those of the spring stood unharmed. A dribbling bloom during the winter proves more profitable than does one coming in all together. The fine blood-red strain grown round London has no equal for richness of colour and perfume. Seed is usually sown broadcast, or in drills, early in February, and the plants are ready for planting out in May if ground be at liberty. These Wallflowers will thrive very well under orchard trees. Violets. — Dense cold fogs, low temperature, and, later, keen easterly winds have checked the pro- duction of Violet blooms, and thus the compara- tively open winter does not keep the promise of some earlier seasons. With Violets especially a long blooming time is much desired, as a better price is secured for the flowers during the winter than in the spring, when Violets are plentiful. Great areas of good land are cropped with the single Russian and Czar Violets, and, on the whole, given good seasons, few crops pay better, and few furnish more welcome labour in marketing. To myriads of women the Violet season comes with gladness, for with even but one penny per dozen bunches of bloom, with no leaves, really good wages are earned. Then from the market the flower-women find ample patronage during the season. Some complaint has been heard here and there of the quantity of Violets which come over here now from France and Italy, but these arrive only when ours are scarce. Still farther, they are profitable in part only when the weather is dry and cool, as dimp soon destroys them. As a grower said the other day, after all how many a jjoor person can get a bunch of sweet Violets for a penny now, and we ought to remember that this is excellent phOosophy, and teaches us that the world of flowers is not made for growers alone. The old plants lifted and pulled to pieces are dibbled out into fresh soil during the month of May, and usually stand if the ground be clean for three years. A good grower has a big breadth lifted and divided every year. Double Violets, it is found, suffer more from fogs and frosts than do the hardier single varieties. Winter greens. — Whilst the summer drought materially affected the extent of ground planted with all kinds of winter greens, and rendered the cost of getting out those which were planted con- siderable because of the watering needful, yet prices have during the winter been far better than was the case last season, and growers seem very well satisfied. It is thus seen that abundance is not an appreciable blessing to growers, as much reduced crops give, nevertheless, better returns. Certainly the winter has been very favourable to green stuff, even Spinach, of which there are many unusually good breadths, not having been, so far, at all checked. White Turnips are either few or small, and thus green crops have one competitor the less. Brussels Sprouts, Coleworts, Savoy Cabbages, and small white Cabbages have been excellent. The product of the winter will doubtless stimulate to big plantings next summer if the season be favour- able, and then a glut will follow again. Lettuces planted out largely in the open ground have suffered little from slugs, and nothing, so far, from the cold. There is now far better promise for a crop of spring Lettuces than usual. Autumn-sown Onions are rather smaller than usual, and will not be ready for pulling early. Still, there will be no lack of this salad when the spring comes. All white Broccoli looks well, but small, whilst sprouting Broccoli is a very medium crop, although, as a rule, so strong and abundant. Ground is now working well, and seeds of the earlier green stuff for next winter will soon be freely sown. A. D. Flower Garden. CHRISTMAS ROSES. Just now when the Chrysanthemum is on the wane in most gardens, and when outdoor blos- soms of really fine quality are at their very lowest ebb, the value of well-grown Christmas Roses is apt to be most appreciated. Formerly we had only the old Helleborus niger, then H. altifolius became known, but now, thanks in the main to large importations from Austria and elsewhere, we have at least a dozen varieties, all finer, more vigorous and free-flowering than H. niger, and all worth a well-chosen spot and good soil in the best of gardens. The best sorts as now known are the following: — H. niger minor i H. niger major n. variegatus ' n. m. (of Hartland) n. altifolius (maxi- n. major (of Bath) mus) n. Mme. Fourcade n. " Riverston " . n. sulphureus (De n. caucasicus (of Graaff) Ware) n. intermedius or n. (of Mr. Brock- scoticus bauk) n. latifolius, or " St. n. (of " St. Brigid ") ' Dulough's"(of Rev. n. vemalis (of Sweet) F. Tymons) n. ruber " Apple- blossom " There are other varieties or forms known, but the above represent imr practical knowledge of to-day, and show our wealth and discrimina- tion as contrasted with that of a few years ago. The very best of all the above I consider to be the following in the order named ; — H. altifolius or maximus H. caucasicus (Ware) "Riverston " variety ruber or "Apple- major (of Bath) blospom " " St. Brigid," or Mr. Brockbank's form As grown in one or two spots in Ireland, I should place "St. Brigid" third, that is, after the "Riverston," but it is a more delicate grower; whereas, H. altifolius and the " River- ston " are vigorous on most deep-dug, rich soils in England as well as in Ireland. For whiteness and shapely blossoms no other variety except the Manchester form can touch the ' ' St. Brigid " variety. It is perfect as grown on genial soil in Irish gardens. A friend of mine wrote two lines, in imitation of George Herbert, lately, on the new Aurelia (Narcissus) Brous- sonetti, now flowering at Kew. So white, so sweet a flower, it is A dainty, crownless Eucharis ! and this really applies to this Christmas Rose, which is quite sweetly odorous in a warm room at night. The characters distinguishing these six best varieties are as follows : — H. altifolius. — Stems of leaves and flowers heavily dotted or blotched with red or brown. Leaf- age very dark green. Flower cup-shaped. H. Riverston var. — Leaf-stems pale apple green, not dotted with red. Flower-stems slightly dotted with red. Leaflets dark green, serrate at their apices. Flower star-shaped. H. St. Brigid.— Both this and the Manchester form agree in having both flower and leaf -stalks of a pale apple green with no red dots. Leafage light green slightly serrated. H. MAJOR (of Bath). — A free-growing, free-flower- ing H. niger. Leaf and flower-stems dotted with red. Leafage pale green, moderately serrated. H. CAUCASICUS (Ware).— A strong, dark-leaved form of H. major, with very white shapely flowers. Leaf and flower-stems dotted with red. H. RUBER Applb-blossom. — This is one of Mr. Ware's choicest varieties, bearing rosy flowers, that remind one of its popular name. Leaves dark green, stems all dotted with red. We must once and for all give up the "pink stigmas" as a character for distinguishing Christmas Roses. Even " St. Brigid's " va- riety has pink stigmas sometimes, although no red appears in leaf or flower-stalk. The red or pink stigmas are not constant, any more than is the amount or depth of rosy flushing on the sepals, which, like it, varies from year to year, or varies on difierent soUs and in different aspects or exposures. Mr. Hart- land, of Cork, has sent me fine photographs of "Riverston," "St. Brigid," and his own H. niger, as grown in paraffin casks sawn in half, and in good, fresh, rich soil. These casks are about 3 feet across, and the foliage stretches a little over the rim on each side, so that the plants are nearly 4 feet over, and they now bear from 200 to 300 flowers and buds each, some perhaps more, but I want to keep inside the truth. I never saw such noble plants before, and there can be no doubt but that this system of tub culture in the open air will be largely followed, seeing that the plants can be readily lifted into the shelter of a cool house or conservatory at blooming time. On another occasion I hope to go more fully into Mr. Hartland's plan of culture, but now content myself with noting its advantages. The preceding notes have been jotted down in the hope that someone or other of the many readers of The Garden will favour us with their views. 1 hope to return to the subject again in more detail, but meanwhile am desirous of hearing what other amateurs have to say as to the dis- tinctions and vagaries of these beautiful hardy flowers of the mid-winter season. F. W. BURBIDGE. "The English Slower Garden."— This book is in preparation, but will take some months to reprint, as there are many additions. Jan. 28, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 75 LILIUM LONGIFLORUM WILSONI. LiLiuM LONGIFLORUM 13 One of the best of the hardy Lilies, and this variety is perhaps the best of all its forms. A good clump of it, as photographed in Mr. Tillett's garden at Sprow- ston, is shown in our engraving. The engraver's art, however, great as are its attainments, fails to render satisfactorily the snow-white glisten- ing brilliancy of the flowers. The bright shining foliage with flowers of the purest white and the expanding buds form a garden picture of refreshing beauty. The species is quite hardy with Mr. Tillett. The plants figured have grown in their present place for several years. Autumn-blooming Crocuses.— Looking over the results of the past autumn, which has by no ochrolencus, Salzmanni, a robust, free-flowering species generally, and one of the best, Clusi, and serotinus fared very little better. Until this year I have always been more or less fortunate with hadriaticus, Borji, and cancellatus, but I believe that from these three species (large clumps of each) a dozen really perfect flowers could not at any time have been gathered. C. sativus, one of the very commonest of the autumn Crocuses, flowered very feebly indeed, and one shower of pelting rain de- stroyed the blooms. C. medius, a tall, handsome I species, longiflorus, and Cambessedesi averted a total failure, these flowering when the weather happened to be favourable. From the above results, which I will take the first opportunity to remedy, I have learned a lesson, and that is, to plant the autumn-flowering Crocuses in the most sheltered spots available on the rockery, and always facing i south if convenient. Some clumps, which I tried Lilium longlfloram Wilsoni. Engraved for The Garden. means been a bad one for hardy plants, I have been more forcibly struck than ever with the failure to bloom of the Crocus species. When plants, bulbs included, are grown out of doors, and all the care and attention necessary to their well-being given them, we expect and deserve an ample return for our pains. This year, however, though more open, and consequently more favour- able in every way for autumn and winter- flowering plants blooming in the open without protection, my experience with autumn Crocuses has been very disappointing. C. Sharojani, the first to open, is a rare Crocus, and 1 believe found as yet in very few collections. It is the only orange species that flowers in autumn, and just as its blooms began to expand, the heavy rains of one night entirely destroyed my little group. Vallicola and zonatus were served in much the same way, and even speciosus, pulchellus, nudi- florus, and asturicus gave very little pleasure, unless at odd times, which indeed were rare. C. on the rockery, nestling at the base of large stones with a southern exposure, flowered very satisfac- torily, and, hardly any of the flowers were injured by rain or cutting winds. — K. FLOWER GARDEN NOTES. Dahlias. — I have somewhere read a paragraph that the single varieties were fast going out of cul- tivation, but surely "the wish was father to the thought," for as yet I have observed no diminu- tion in the popularity of that section, but rather the reverse, as I think there is an increasing interest being taken in them. This is indicated by the numbers of new seedlings that are constantly beirg sent out, and that they are well adapted for deco- rative flower garden work, or bedding out, goes without saying. We use them here with excellent effect in the centres of large oval basket-shaped beds, and grouped in masses in the centres of large beds, as well as for lines or rows of colour, to form a background for other kinds of flowers, such as Abutilons, Marguerites, Heliotropes, and Fuchsias. But I ought to add, that for the Dahlias themselves an evergreen hedge of some kind displays their merits to the greatest advantage. We give them positions of this kind, and as the habit of the plants admits of the branches being trained out and tied to the background — in our case a Cypress hedge— the mixture of colour is both novel and pleasing, and for this purpose alone they are worth cultivating. Many of the compact-habited types, such as gracilis perfecta, should be planted singly in large beds of dwarfer-growing plants, such as Pelargoniums, in which positions they add variety of colour and an undulating surface that are infinitely more pleasing than the flatness so prevalent in bedded-out gardens. Some three or four of the varieties that are known as the Cactus section are useful for a similar purpose, but they are so late in coming into flower, that I question whether they will ever be very popular. The best are the scarlet Juarezi, the creamy yeUow Mrs. Hawkins, and the white Constance ; this latter is the earliest to flower, and is invaluable for cutting. The show and bouquet varieties are too stiff and formal ; what few we do plant are relegated to positions where general effect is not so neces- sary. They are, however, well adapted for giving an abundance of flowers, as they stand for a long time after being cut. The single varieties, of which we require the greatest number of plants, are now being potted and plunged in frames filled with leaves that give out a little warmth, which soon starts the tubers into active growth, and as soon as the shoots are from 2 inches to 3 inches long, they are taken off with jast a particle of the old tuber at- tached— technically called a "heel" — and inserted in 2.^-inch pots and plunged in the same heating medium as the old plants. Here they quickly root, and make far better plants for a summer display than old stools or tubers. Provided the lights are thickly covered in frosty weather and always at night, linings round the frames for the production of top heat are unneces- sary, and, in fact, undesirable, as it only conduces to a weakly growth. About 55' is a sufBciently high tem- perature, and this the bulk of heating material on which the frames stand ought to produce with the nightly coverings advised. Cannas. — On dry, gravelly, and sandy subsoils in the south and west of England Cannas will sometimes stand the winter. They have here gone successfully through that ordeal on three or four occasions, but having lost them two seasons consecutively, we have not since left them to the tender mercies of the winter, but always now lift and pack them closely together in Cocoa fibre or dry soil in a frost- proof shed. Some two or three of the varieties to be increased by offshoots are now being brought out, divided and potted, and started gently into growth. Those varieties, of which we only require the old stools, will not be potted up before the end of March, to be then grown on slowly for planting out at the end of May. Seeds ought to be sown at once, as they take a long time to germinate. This, however, can be hastened by soaking the seeds for a week, or even more, in saucers of tepid water, kept in that state by standing them on the hot-water pipes of a forcing house. A strong, robust specimen Is unique as a lawn plant, and Cannas ought to be used in this manner rather than in the huge masses that they generally are. If planted 76 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 28, 1888. to fill ad entire bed, their beauty would be greater if each stood out separately, and if the bare ground is objected to, it can be easily clothed with a car- peting plant of some kind or other. Fuchsias.— For some years now we have used these in quantity in the summer bedding arrange- ments. Their graceful habit of growth, free and constant aowering character throughout the entire season, and the restricted use that is made of them in most gardens, all contribute to make them de- sirable plants for the purpose. Old plants always flower most freely. I do not say the flowers are so fine as those on young plants, but size is a small matter when general rather than particular decora- tive effect is in question, and there is another ad- vantage in having old plants, and that is, they have such woody stems, that no staking is required, and the plants are better adapted for the purpose for which they are most generally required, namely, as standards amongst more formal-growing plants These old specimens are lifted in early autumn and treated exactly the same as Cannas, and they will now very shortly be brought out and be pruned back to the live wood. A pyramidal form of bush is that most desired ; this is made as nearly as can be as pruning proceeds. The plants are then potted into the smallest-sized pots it is possible to get the roots, and are then started into growth very gradu- ally—the slower the better, because more sturdy and strong will be the shoots, and, therefore, not readily injured by harsh wmds or fierce sunshine when the plants are first put into the beds. Roses. — The bulk of our plants are still in full leaf, and occasionally we can still cut as nice a flower-bud as we can at the end of October and during November, but what will happen if we get severe winter weather is not pleasant to contem- plate. In their present unripened state many of the plants would assuredly be killed. Mulching is being applied thickly, and this will save all the plants from the ground-line, and pruning will not be attempted till the season of severe frosts is over. A few plants that we have on a south wall have hard, well-matured wood, and part of these we have, therefore, pruned in order to get flowers very early. This wall can be easily protected with canvas or mats, which will be put over should a long wintry spell supervene between the bursting of the new wood-buds and the flowering stage. We have still a quantity to plant, and as soon as weather condi- tions are favourable this will be our first work. W. W. are now in 3-inch pots in cold frames, may require to be repotted into 5-inch or fi-inch pots; these will be the earliest to flower, and the plants propa- gated from cuttings now will be the latest. Many persons object to the trouble of propagating hardy plants in forcing houses and coddling them in frames ; if this is the case, they must fall back on seedling's— they are no trouble. The seeds are sown out of doors early in May, and the plants, after being duly pricked out into lines about 4 inches or (5 inches apart, may be planted where they are to flower in the autumn, either in masses or as single plants in the herbaceous border. The plants also come very true to their colours from seeds, that is, if these have been saved from flowers not likely to have been impregnated by bees. All that they require in the way of culture is a rich, deep soil, plenty of water in dry weather, and stout 5-feet stakes to which the centre stem has to be firmly tied. J- Douglas. result. Besides, I have always maintained the lift- ing and drying merely completed the maturing process. I know a number of trade growers, and not one advisedly leaves them in the ground during the winter. Of course, like Dahlias, they might survive. W. J. Mubpht. Clonmel. Garden Flora. HOLLYHOCK SEEDLINGS V. NAMED VARIETIES. This stately autumn-flowering hardy plant may find a place in any garden. It is a noble plant, and I well remember when a boy how I used to watch the rapid motion of the humble bees as they loaded themselves with pollen from the single varieties. Now, every cottager may have the most beautiful double varieties, pure white, rich clear yellow, maroon, crimson, rose, and other colours. Those who have the means and are desirous of maintain- ing a good collection must now set about propa- gating young stock from cuttings, or by grafting. I find they have a tendency to damp off in ordinary hotbeds, but do well in a forcing house if there is S3me provision made for bottom-lieat. Each cut- ting should be taken off close to the stem with a heel attached, and be planted in fine soil in 2.Vinch pots, one cutting in each. I use the potting soil in a medium state of moisture and press the cuttings into it firmly. They are placed in a close hand- light, and it is not safe to give them any water until it is seen that they are rooted. The top of the glass should be removed daily and be wiped clean with a dry cloth, replacing it in a few minutes. Another plan is to graft the cuttings on to a short length of root, about the same thickness as the catting; merely tie the two together with a strip of matting and plant in small pots, the same as the cutting^. The top of the root should be close to the su'rface. Plants raised from cuttings or eyes daring the previous sammer and autumn, if they LIFTING OF GLADIOLI. " Delta," in his interesting notes in The Gar- den, December 31 (p. 583), refers to corms growing vigorously among his Roses where he has planted none for ten years, yet when he left some through the winter in the ground they miserably failed. Permit me to ask " Delta" whe- ther he considers those that bloomed among his Roses, seedlings, spawn, or continuous-blooming (of course, reproduced) old corms ? The point is very important, and was referred to by Mr. James Douglas in your columns ten years ago, but, as I remember, not explained. Neither does Mr. J. Burrell, in The Gaeden, January 7 (p. 7), and I think the statement has been misunderstood by " J. C. C." (page 8). He gives the quotation in full, and then adds, "This is just my experience!" His experience, however, has reference to where he made a sowing from seed fifteen years ago— I pre- sume, quite a different matter from " Delta's." " J. C. C." says every year for ihe past fifteen years on the same piece of ground where he scattered the seed many plants come up and flower as strongly as those taken up and stored. Does he mean to convey that those are some of the original seed- lings ? He concludes with a statement that requires elucidation also : " What is remarkable is that the self-sown bulbs (corms) of the choicest kinds are as hardy when left in the ground as the common sorts." I have grown Gladioli for more than twenty years, and I find that flowers can only be had from fully grown and matured corms of the previous year. Seedlings produce flowers in some instances the second year, but generally the third. If seed after being sown does not grow the first year, it will not grow at all. I fancy it would be a mistake to think seed would remain "dormant in the ground for one or more winters. Probably "J. C. C." does not mean this, though it might be inferred from his " having flowers for the past fifteen years where he strewed the seed then." The second method of reproduction is by spawn. Those that are shy in producing spawn will always be dear, especially if good exhibition flowers, and rice versa. This is the great point that regulates the catalogue price, as where hundreds or thousands of varieties are grown, as at Langport or Fontainebleau, cross-fertilisation is probable, and the variety wanted to be repro- duced may come from seed quite different. With- out wishing to anticipate the answer "Delta" may give to the above query, I may say, from noticing fine vigorous spikes of even the best varieties simi- larly coming up in my flower beds and borders where I planted none, I invariably attributed the fact to spawn from old corms that had fallen off when lifting or otherwise. The only other method (besides the natural production of one, two, and sometimes three new corms from the old one) of increasing the stock of Gladioli corms is by cutting them with a sharp knife into as many eyes as each contains. Rightly or wrongly, I am prejudiced against this method. Lastly, as to the hybrids of G. gandavensis being hardy in an ordinary winter, I do not believe it ; anyone who thinks so can lift a few in November and leave them exposed, and note the PLATE 633. ODONTOGLOSSUM HARRYANDM.* The subject of our present illustration is a plant of quite recent introduction and which took the Orchid world by surprise, as it represents quite a new departure, diflering from anything which had previously been discovered, its form and exquisite colouring causing it to at once take first rank amongst a genus already celebrated for the numerous beautiful species and varieties it contains. The opinion has been expressed that it is in all probability a natural hybrid, but I think all such ideas are erroneous, as I cannot imagine any two plants with which I am ac- quainted that could have produced the form and colour of the one now illustrated. The Odonto- glossum under consideration is evidently en- tirely new and thoroughly distinct from all the other types ia the genus, and consequently a series of modifications and hybrid forms from it may be expected when the district over which it is spread becomes thoroughly investigated. The exact locality whence this plant comes has not been disclosed, although I believe it to be from some part of the United States of Colum- bia. This, however, is rather a vague state- ment, as the area included by these words is a very large one. It is little more than three years ago since the plant was first introduced by Mr. Horsman, a nurseryman of Colchester, from wliom the entire stock was acquired by the Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea. Two plants of this consignment flowered at Chelsea in the autumn of 1886, but as they bore only two flowers upon the spike, their beauty was not then appa- rent. It was named by Prof. Reichenbacli in honour of Mr. Harry Veitch, head of the cele- brated firm at Chelsea. In 1887 Mr. Sander, of St. Albans, received from one of his collec- tors a wonderful consignment of this species, which at once showed what a fine plant this is likely to be when it becomes thoroughly established in our collections. Since the above named consignment was received several other smaller batches of plants have come to hand, but I advise all those possessing examples of this species to take good care of them, and not to hold them too cheaply, as the species is said to bo scarce in its native country, or, if not scarce, extremely local, and therefore home-grown examples are likely to increase in value. This plant does not appear to be difticult to establish, as I have seen numerous examples thriving well under somewhat cool treatment ; several of these have bloomed from the imported growths, and some at the present moment are showing flower from the first small growths which have been made in this country. These, however, will not display the beauty of the species to its full extent, but they aff'ord ample proof of its free-blooming nature. It is a bold-growing plant, somewhat resembling O. hastilabiuni both in growth and in the strength of its in- florescence. Pseudo-bulbs, oblong-ova.te, com- pressed, smootli wlien young, becoming fur- * Drawn for The Garden at Mr. Sander',s, St. Alban.s July 20, 1887, by H. G. Moon, and printed by G. Severeyns. Jan. 28, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 11 rowed with age ; leaves 6 inches to 1 foot long, oblong-obtuse, leathery in texture, and, like the pseudo-bulbs, pale green in colour ; scape 3 feet or more long, bearing from twelve to fourteen flowers, as shown by the scars borne on the spikes of the imported l^lants. The sepals and petals are chestnut- brown or chocolate, the former transversely streaked and tipped with deep, rich yellow, petals longitudinally streaked with purplish mauve and tipped with yeUow ; lip large and flat, three- lobed, the side lobes curved upwards, the front lobe pure white, passing into pale yeUow with age, basal portion heavily marked with feathery lines of bluish- purple, whilst the crest is rich golden yellow. Odontoglossum Harrya- num appears to thrive well under pot culture in a mixture of rough fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss ; it also apjiears to enjoy exposure to the light and a slightly higher temperature than the ordinary forms of Odontoglossum. This, at least, is the treatment under which I have re- cently seen some dozens of plants growing well and producing flowers, but experience with this species is at present very limited, and upon further acquaintance it may be found to thrive in equally as low a temperature as O. Alexandra. W. H. G. Orchids. W. H. GOWER. CHOICE DENDROBIUMS FOR BASKET CULTURE. There are few plants more beautiful than a collection of Dendrobes when well flowered and properly grouped, and those with the pen- dent, stem-like pseudo-bulbs are by no means inferior to the other sections for free-flowering qualities and richness of colour. Moat of this section are destitute of foliage at the time of flowering, so that one might suppose this would be a serious drawback to the efl'ect ; but so numerous are the blooms, and so rich and varied are the colours, that one becomes com- pletely absorbed in their contemplation and perfectly oblivious to the want of leaves. These basket Dendrobes should be planted in rough peat and Sphagnum Moss, with a few nodules of charcoal added, the specimens being made firm, so that when the baskets are taken down the plant does not move about. They enjoy strong heat and moisture and good exposure to light when growing, but when the bulbs are fully formed the water supply should be gradually diminished until it is entirely withheld, and then the plants should be removed to a cool house, wliere they may remain until their buds commence to swell, or longer if they are to be retarded for any particular purpose. It must be borne in mind, however, that although I advise a total cessation of the water supply, this is not a rule without an exception ; therefore if any of the plants show signs of distress by their bulbs shrivelling, a little water must be given to plump them up again. I prefer keeping them in the cool house until I see that the flowers are properly formed. These pendent Dendrobiums, if suspended near the glass, thrive admirably in the growing season in an ordi- nary stove in company with fine-foliaged plants, and they will be much benefited by sjirinklings from the syringe when the other plants are be- dewed, but I do not approve of hard syringing at any time. The following twelve distinct kinds are specially adapted for growing in hang- ing baskets : — D. Waedianum. — This grand species was origi- nally imported from Assam and flowered for the first time in this country under my charge in the then extensive collection of the Messrs. Jackson at Kingston, from whence it passed into the Ruckerian collection at Wandsworth. Beautiful, however, as the Assam variety was considered, it has since been eclipsed by a much stouter growing form which produces flowers correspondingly large. This, a plant of which I recently noted in the collection of Mr. Measures at Streatham bearing seventy-three flowers upon two growths, was Introduced from Burmah by the Messrs. Low. The individual blooms measure some 3 inches to -1 inches across ; they are thick and waxy in texture, and last a considerable time in full pierfection. The sepals and petals are waxy white, tipped with magenta, whilst the lip is similarly marked and ornamented at the base with a large blotch of rich orange, upon which near the base are two large eye-like spots of deep crimson. D. Paeishi is an introduction of the Messrs. Low, of Clapton, from Moulmein, through the gentleman whose name it bears; the pseudo-bulbs are stout and pendent, from 1 foot to 2 feet long, bearing numerous flowers, the sepals and petals of which are of a rich deep rose colour; lip slightly paler, and blotched on each side of the throat with dark purple. It blooms during the summer months. The late Mr. Turner, of Leicester, once exhibited a plant of this species at a June show at Manchester bearing eighty flowers upon one growth. D. CEEPIDATUM. — This plant is a native of Nor- thern India, and usually flowers in this country during the early spring months. It was introduced to cultivation between thirty and forty years ago, and although abundant in collections some few years ago, it is not seen so frequently at the present time. I was therefore much pleased recently at seeing some nice examples of it at Mr. Partington's, Cheshunt, where it has been kept quite dormant since its growth was completed. Its flower-buds are just pushing up, and promise to produce a grand display in a short time. The growths are pendent, upwards of 1 foot long, and the flowers are produced in pairs from the joints; sepals and petals creamy white, suffused and tipped with pink ; lip same colour, with a deep yellow blotch at the base. D. Devonian UM is a charming species, and ap- pears to be a very plentiful plant in Assam, from whence I imported a great quantity a few years ago. The stems are very slender, from 2 feet to 'A feet, or even 4 feet long; the flowers are produced in pairs from the joints and are nearly 2 inches in diameter; sometimes fully three-fourths of the entire length is covered with bloom; sepals and petals creamy white, tipped with pink or magenta; lip broad, white, stained with a blotch of rich orange on each side and tipped with magenta; the entire edge is bordered with a deep mossy fringe, which renders it both distinct and extremely beautiful. The flowers are somewhat short lived, especially if the plants are kept in the East India house during the time of flowering. I have found the life of the flowers much prolonged if the plants are hung in the intermediate house and kept shaded. On ac- count of the very slender stems of this plant, it requires considerable attention diiring the resting season. It is a spring bloomer. D. LITUIFLOEUM. — This Dendrobium remained one of the rarest of the genus for some years after its introduction, and its native country was doubtful until, about twenty years ago, I imported a tine batch from Upper Assam, which caused it to become better known and more widely cultivated. The stems are swollen at the base, becoming slender and almost uniform in size throughout, 2 feet to 3 feet long ; flowers usually in pairs, and about 2 inches across ; sepals and petals spreading, deep purple, slightly paler towards the base ; lip rich deep violet with purple throat, in the front of which is a broad band of yellowish white, the edge being margined with purple. Its splendid flowers are produced in early spring. D. Falconeri. — A very slender-stemmed species, with its joints much swollen. A native of Northern India, at some 4000 feet elevation. It is usually considered a shy-blooming plant, but I think this arises from its being grown in too high a tempera- ture. The Messrs. Rollisson used to flower this plant freely, and the majority of their plants were grown with the Odontoglossums and others at the coldest end of the Cattleya house. Its flowers are nearly 4 inches across ; sepals and petals white tipped with purple ; lip of the same colour, with a broad stain of deep, rich orange round the throat, and a large central spot of velvety-purple at the base. The gorgeous flowers open during the late spring and early summer months, and last about a fortnight in perfection. D. SUPERBUM, perhaps better known by the name of D. macrophyllum, is a bold-growing plant, with stout pendulous growths, which often attain a length of 2 feet or 30 inches. The flowers are cor- respondingly large, frequently measuring from 5 inches to 7 inches across ; sepals and petals rosy- purple ; lip of the same colour, with the addition of a pair of deep reddish blotches at the base. The flowers appear in early summer, and yield an odour resembling that of Turkey Rhubarb, which is not perceptible, however, saving when approached closely. D. PRIMULINUM produces stout pendent stems over a foot long ; flowers large, mostly solitary from the joints ; sepals and petals white, streaked and tipped with pink ; the lip is large, creamy yellow, with a few purple streaks at the base. It flowers in spring. D. chrtsanthum. — An old and well-known species, yet a very beautiful one. It blooms at various seasons and just as its growths are finished, so that in this instance leaves and flowers appear together ; the flowers are fleshy in texture and rich deep golden yellow in colour, the lip being orna- mented at the base with a central spot of velvety blackish purple. D. PiERARDi is another old plant, a free bloomer, and its flowers are produced through the winter months, thus rendering it a great favourite. The stems are slender, pendent, 4 feet to even (i feet in length; flowers produced from the joints in pairs along the greater portion of their length ; the sepals and petals blush-white ; lip creamy white, faintly tinged with sulphur-yellow. D. MacCarthi^. — This species is peculiar to Ceylon, and is by far the finest Orchid I know from that island. Stems slender, pendent, with a slightly swollen base ; the flowers are large, but do not s^iread, as is usual in the majority of Dendrobes, and are produced on a short raceme bearing from three to five blooms ; sepals and petals bright rose pink ; lip rich deep purple at the base, tipped with rose-pink or cerise. It blooms in summer, and, un- like most of the Dendrobiums, the flowers last many weeks in full beauty. D. AMOENUM. — A charming, brilliantly-coloured kind and an abundant bloomer, the flowers yielding a grateful perfume ; the stems are slender and about 2 feet in length ; sepals and petals clear white, tipped with bright magenta ; lip white, and stained at the base with yellow. It is a spring bloomer. Native of Northern India, at about 5000 feet eleva- tion. Odontoglossum blandum. — This is not only a rare plant in cultivation, but is said to have become very rare in its native country, which is near to Ocana, in New Grenada, at upwards of COOO feet elevation, where it inhabits the damp forests of that region. It is a small-growing plant, with somewhat the aspect of 0. na;vium, another very rare species, but it differs from that plant in various ways, more especially in the greater breadth of its lip. The raceme is dense and nodding ; sepals and petals are narrowly lanceolate, tapering to a point, creamy white, dotted and freckled with deep crim- son; lip similar in colour, but with larger spots, and ornamented with two yellow ridges on the disc. This plant is now flowering profusely in Mr. Measures' collection at Streatham, where it is kept very moist and cool, conditions under which it appears to grow vigorously. — W. H. G. Dendrobium Hilli. — This species is a near ally of D. speciosum, both being natives of Australia, the plant now under consideration having been sent from Queensland by Mr. Hill in ISiJO. It 78 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 28, 1888. differs from speoiosum in its longer, more slender, and more erect pseudo-bulbs, which are crowned on the summit with several large, leathery, dark green leaves; the racemes are also much longer and pen- dulous, whilst the individual flowers have more slender sepals and petals. The plant is also a much freer bloomer than D. speciosum, the flowers being creamy white, saving a small blotch of purple on the lip. A good example of this plant bearing numerous spikes of bloom is now to be seen in Mr. Measures' collection at Camberwell. — W. H. G. The brittle snake in the Orcbid house. — The brittle snake (Anguis fragilis, Lin.), or the slow-worm, is a native of Britain, common in Eng- land, though not in Scotland ; when full grown it is about 12 inches or 13 inches long, generally of a dark glossy colour, moves slowly, and has a beauti- ful snake-like head, with keen piercing eyes, is per- fectly harmless, and can be made a pet. I find this snake a grand assistant to the green tree frog in the Orchid house, as his principal food is snails. All Orchid growers hate snails, as they destroy flower- spikes and young bulbs. Some years ago a friend of mine purchased a rare Phalajnopsis for ten guineas. Next morning when he went to look at the rare plant he found to his disgust that a snail had made his breakfast off It — a most expensive breakfast, many will say. I would advise Orchid growers to give the slow-worm a trial. They can be pur- chased from any dealer in wild animals. — Alex. Patebson, M.D., Fernfield, Bridge of Allan. Xrtricnlaria nelumbifolia. — This singular form is, I believe, one of the largest of the known species, and I am pleased to see it has recently been introduced to this country in a living state by Mr. Sander, of St. Albans, who so recently imported living examples of the lovely blue-flowered U. Humboldti from the Roraima Mountains, in British Guiana. The plant in question, although only now brought to this country in a living state, was discovered by Gardner, who, when travelling in Brazil about the year 1841, found it on barren rooky places on the Organ Mountains growing in the crowns of large Tillandsias. He describes it as sending out runners to the tops of the nearest Bromeliad. The roots of the Utricularias descend into the water which collects in the crowns of these plants, and there form another runner, which goes on to the next re- ceptacle. The leaves are erect, and the exact counter- part in miniature of the so-called Sacred Egyptian Bean (Nelumbium). The raceme bears from six to nine somewhat distant flowers, which are said to be of a violet hue.— W. H. G. Grubs on Cattleya thoots.— From Mr. New- man's description of the above in Tub Garden of January 14 (p 24), 1 fancy his plants are affected with the pest known to Orchid growers as the Cat- tleya fly. It is a small black fly, which deposits its e^-gs in the dormant buds of Caltlejas and La3Uas, and the larva; or grubs feed on the inside of the young growths until in some cases only a mere shell is left. These grubs after passing through the various stages become flies, and boring their way out of their prison assist in carrying on the work of destruction. I have seen as many as six breaks on a small piece of Cattleya Eldorado, and as each shoot was affected, this was so much strength lost. I know of no insect, not even excepting thrips, more deadly in its effects if its presence is unsuspected, but as soon as discovered and war declared against it there is none so easy to exter- minate. The only sure cure I know of and one which I can confidently recommend is to go over every plant carefully, and with a sharp knife cut off every growth which appears to be affected and also destroy any stray flies that can be found. By doing this and watching carefully for any affected growths which may appear after the first operation, Mr. Newman will very soon rid his Cattleyas of this pest.— C. IlowB, Ximjieltl (larihns, Dttmjries. Cypripedium Harrisianum vivicans. — The orif(inal form of this our first hybrid Slipper Orchid was much prized wlien it flowered. Numerous seedling forms of it have, however, proved much supe- rior to the parent, but the variety vivicans is by far the finest of the kinds which li ive hitherto come under my notice. The fohage is tessellated, but much less so than in other forms, and the polished flowers are very dark, the sepals and petals being rich, deep vinous-purple, and the large lip deep purplish crimson. It is now flowering with Mr, Measures at Camberwell. — W. H. G. Ferns. W. H. QOWER. TRICHOMANES PLUMA. Thls feather-like Trichomanes is an exceedingly delicate and beautiful species ; it has a wiry creeping rhizome, clothed with black hairs, and W' ■-mA tzy f^ t-: ^%1^' y^v "A ■^■^ Trichomanes pluma. the fronds attain a height vaiying from 1 foot to 15 inches ; they are three or four times divided, the segments being very slender, as a glance at our illustration will show. Our figure was taken from a plant wliicli was imported some time ago from the neighbourliood of Sar.awak, in Borneo, together with otlier choice kinds, by the Messrs. Low, of Clapton, and 1 believe tlie same species was collected by Mr. Thomas Lobl) when travelling for tlie Messrs. Veitcli, of Chelsea. Messrs. Backhouse, of York, also included this superb plant amongst the grand collection of PUmy Ferns cultivated in their nurseries at York ; but it has always been an extremely rare species, if even it exists in our collections at all at the present time. If not, its rare beauty should be a sufficient inducement for its speedy re-introduction. Like all this class of Ferns, it requires an atmosphere heavily charged with moisture, exclusion from the sun's rays, and a temperature which does not fall below 60° at any season of the year. Ferns in cases. — A neighbour of mine, who has been highly successful in growing Ferns in a case, prefers one of octagonal shape to that of square or oblong form, on the ground that he gets more views of the contents, but, provided they are the proper sorts and well planted, they will do as well in one as in the other. When planting his Ferns, my neighbour broke up some light coke into pieces about the size of a Walnut, and laid them at the bottom of the case to assist drainage. On this was placed a mixture of peaty soil and Cocoa- nut fibre, the proportion being two of the peaty soil to one of fibre. In this a few Ferns were planted, but not thickly, and they soon commenced to grow freely. Almost all our native Ferns will grow in a case of this kind, and not a few intro- duced species also, so the planter can make a choice to suit his own tastes. Water is seldom required, and if the door be kept nearly cjnstantly closed, but little evaporation will take place. As a matter of course, the supply of water must be regulated by the season of the year. — R. D. Lastreas. — In answer to "Newcastle," your three specimens, all of which are Lastreas, are rare and handsome species, and so seldom seen outsice botanic gardens, that a notice of them may perhaps lead to their more extended cultivation. No. 1 is L. vestita, a fine bold-growing Fern, the fronds of which attain a height of between 3 feet and 4 f ei t (although as more frequently seen they seldom ex- ceed 2 f t ) and nearly 1 foot across in the widest part. Stem stout and densely clothed throughout with long woolly chestnut-brown hairs ; the fronds are pinnate, the pinna; nearly G inches lorg. the whole plant having a symmetiical character, wbich renders it quite charming. It comes from Brazil. No. 2 is L. fusipes, a native of Cejlon. It has somewhat the appearance of an Aspidiura of the cicutariim section. It, however, has free, not netted, veins and a reniform indusium. As I have the same form, which was named for me by the late Sir William Hooker, I have to hesitation in giving it this name. It attains a height of 2 feet or more ar d a breadth of about 8 inches, the stem being bare for nearly a foot, and more or less furni^hed with some- what large dark brown chaffy scales. It forms a handsome and effective plant. No. 3, L. strijjosa, has fronds from 1 foot to 2 feet long, pinnate, light cheerful green. A special feature in this Fern is the long jet-black hairs which clothe the base of the stem. It comes from the Mauritius. This plant, although retained in the genus Lastrea by authors, should, I think, be removed to Phegopteris. — W. H. G. NOVEL WAY OF SOWING SEEDS. Many methods of raising flower seeds have been described in The Gaeden, but the following, re- lating to alpine Auriculas, and which I take from the trade list of a large Continental nursery- man, will probably be quite new to most of your readers : — Sow from December till February in pans of sandy soil covered with snow, on which the seed is scattered. AVlieu the snow has disappeared, the surface is covered with chopped Moss, and the pans placed in a frost- proof frame. We are justified in assuming that this plan has been found to answer. A trade grower would not recom- mend a way of sowing his seeds that would bring dis- credit on himself. It is well known that there is something of a stimulating nature in snow. Plants that have been covered with it for a week or more always seem to look very fresh and green after- Jan. 28, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 79 wards. Is it a wonder that snow stimulates the germinating powers of certain seeds, and that to ensure their quick and certain germination they should lay for a time within its direct influence ? It is possibly so of many alpine plants, the seeds of which, I fancy, lie under the snow all through the winter apparently dormant, but really preparing to push through as soon as the snow goes. The advice above given to cover with chopped Moss is worthy of attention. Mr. Peter Henderson once gave some remarkable statistics relating to the comparative certainty of germination displayed by seeds covered with Moss sittings and those covered in the usual manner. The contrast was all in favour of the Moss, the disparity being so great as to be a serious item in the culture. The fault of soil — no matter how well prepared for the purpose it may be — is that it is liable to become hardened, and thus in a measure hinder the coming through of the seeds. Moss cannot become close, so that one need not be so particular as to the depth to which the seeds are covered. A little indiscretion in watering, too, is not so likely to produce evil results. There are certain plants that are found growing naturally where the seeds fall into pure vegetable matter. Christmas Roses, Primroses, and hardy Cyclamens are instances in point. In their case I believe that a considerable admixture of chopped Moss in the soil would promote the free vegetation of the seeds. J. COBNHILL. Stove and Greenhouse. NEPENTHES. In the very able and interesting remarks in The Garden of January 14 (p. 29), entitled " Pitcher Plants around London," " W. H. G." has given us much useful information about these singular plants, but as he has unwittingly promulgated a not uncommon error, perhaps he will be glad of the following particulars. The true N. distillatoria (Linn.), indigenous to Ceylon, is a uwarf grower with small pitchers ; it is known also in this country as N, zeylanica and its variety N. z. rubra. Therefore, this could not be the species he describes as a bold- growing plant with large pitchers, growing on the roof of a house. The species cultivated at Messrs. Loddiges in 1825, under the name of N. distillatoria, as also elsewhere in Britain at that time, should be described as N. Khasyana (Wallich). I am aware it was figured in the Bot. Mag. both as N. distUlatoria and also as N. phyllamphora, and Sir J. D. Hooker makes it a synonym of N. melamphora (Reinw.), but Dr. Masters has decided it to be N. Khasyana (Wall.). It is singular how very unfortunate the Bot. Mag. has been with Ne- penthes ; out of five species figured, only t. 5109, N. ampuUaria (Jack.), is correct. N. Hookeri- ana (Low. ) is figured at t. 4285 as N. Rafflesiana (Jack.), the two species having changed places in gardens, most probably in consequence. " W. H. G." does not make his meaning plain to your readers when he states he does not remember any records respecting seedling Ne- penthes earlier than those he raised himself in 1862-3. If he means true N. distillatoria ( = N. zeylanica), probably lie may be right, otherwise he is not, and the following may be inte- resting. Early in this century Dr. Carey sent seeds of Nepenthes to Wentworth House and to a firm of nurserymen in Liverpool which were supposed to be from Ceylon, but proved to come from the Khasyan Hills, in Bengal. These seedlingswere widelydistributed, and all the plants in this country up to the year 1828 were supposed to have their origin from these two sources. Dr. Lindley says there is a good account of the germination of Nepenthes seedlings in Jameson's Journal for 1830. Loxidon's Gardener's Magazine, July, 1836 (p. 333), mentions both sexes of N. distillatoria (N. Khasyana) as having flowered and matured seeds from which many plants have been raised at Dr. Neill's, Canon Mills Lodge, Edinburgh. In a newspaper cutting I find Mr. Lindsay, the able curator of the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh, when chairman of a meeting of the Scottish Horticultural Society, October 0, 1885, stated that the first seedling Nepenthes raised in Scotland was reared by Mr. Kelly, of Messrs. Dickson and Sons' nursery, Edinburgh, about forty years ago. Interviewing Mr. Lindsay on the subject, he says he has some remembrance of reading that Mr. Kelly was awarded either a gold medal or ten guineas by the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society for his success in this matter. The reference has at the moment escaped his memory. On another point in " W. H. G.'s " paper, I think the addition of the following localities will be of service to your readers. The most northerly, the Khasyan HOls, East Bengal ; the extreme eastern locality, New Caledonia and island of Pinetorum ; the extreme western, Madagascar and the Seychelles. Nepenthes Loddigesi, I find from my notes, was a purple-spotted pitcher, introduced from Borneo in 1847, and long since lost to cultiva- tion. I only hope I may live to see a pitcher of N. Rajah grown in this country of the dimensions mentioned by " W. H. G." Up to the present the dried specimens I have seen fall far short of these dimensions. Indeed, I may say the same of other unintroduced species. The dried specimens of the following scarcely agree with their recorded measurements ; nevertheless, the screw-like process which forms the peristome of N. Edwardsiana, N. Harryana, and N. villosa has a very extraordinary appearance, and with N. Burbidgere, I should be very pleased to welcome them to European cultivation. By the way, St. John gives 5000 feet as the elevation at which N. Rajah is found on Kina Balu. Bur- bidge says 6000 feet to 8000 feet, not 500 feet, as mentioned by " W. H. G." Probably this is a printer's error. — Wm. E. Dixon, ^ssoc. B.S., Edin. Cyrtanthus McKeni. — This South African bulbous plant has been from time to time noted in The Gakdbn, not only for the beauty of its blos- soms, but also for its persistent blooming qualities. That it is fully entitled to all that has been said in its favour on the latter point, I may mention that we have a couple of pans here closely packed with bulbs, and they have not been without flowers since September. No special treatment has been ac- corded them, as the pans simply stand on a stage in the warmest end of the greenhouse where Pelar- goniums, Fuchsias, and such things are wintered. This Cyrtanthus forms a bulb about the size of that of a large Snowdrop, and produces long. Grass-like, evergreen leaves, while the flower-spike reaches a height of from 9 inches to 1 foot, and is terminated by a cluster of flowers. The individual blooms, which are tube -shaped, about 2 inches long, and of curved outline, are of an ivory-white tiut and agreeably scented. Few bulbs are more easily cultivated, as they may be grown successfully throughout the year under the same conditions as a Pelargonium. Like a great many other bulbous plants, it flowers much more freely after the pots or pans in which they are grown are crammed with roots ; therefore in potting them it is necessary to use soil that will remain in good condition for several years. We grow ours in deep pans, as the Cyrtanthus does not require a very large amount of soil. Care is taken to drain the pans thoroughly, and the soil used is good, sandy loam, with a slight admixture of thoroughly decayed manure. In pot- ting, the bulbs are just covered with the compost. and the whole is pressed down firmly. At no tim of the year must this bulb be subjected to the dry ing -off process, but be treated entirely as an ever- green. Although our bulbs have been for some time so closely packed together that they are almost lifting each other out of the soil, there is no diminution in their vigour ; indeed, this treatment seems to suit them perfectly. — T. This is a plant that nurserymen should direct their attention to, for if it were known what a beautiful plant it is throughout the winter months, it would certainly become popular. It is one of the most continuous flowering bulbs that can be grown, and as its blossoms are pure white, and borne in elegant clusters on slender stalks, they are admirable for cutting. It is a Cape bulbous plant of evergreen growth, and begins to flower in autumn and continues till spring. At Kew it has been in bloom in the Cape house for several weeks past. What it would be if grown in quantity and special attention given it one can imagine. It is mentioned in the catalogues of a few nurserymen, but its value cannot be generally known. Even market growers, who are proverbially wary of trying unknown plants, might grow this bulb, as its flowers may be had at Christmas without forcing. — W. G. Himantophyllums in flower. — Though Hi- mantophyllum miniatum and its varieties are green- house plants, yet if the blossoms are allowed to ex- pand in the greenhouse, they are not equal to those produced by plants that have been, just as the flower-stems were pushed up, removed to a warmer structure, and allowed to bloom there. The posi- tion has also a good deal to do with developing the flowers of the Himantophyllum, as when they open in a light position near the glass they are much better coloured than when partially shaded by neighbouring plants. I was led to observe the great change a little additional warmth brings about, by the flowers of some specimens which expanded in a greenhouse being so poor that it was suggested to throw the plants away. The plants were, however, given another chance, and the follow- ing season were placed in an intermediate structure to expand their blossoms, the result being a very great improvement on those of the preceding year. — H. P. Amorphophallus Titanum. — This giant of the vegetable kingdom is the central figure in the A'ic- toria Regia house at Kew, where it occupies the middle of the tank devoted to the great Amazon Lily. It is uncrowded by other things, so that visitors may not pass by such an extraordinary plant without noticing its stateliness and curious character. The specimen is in a moderately deep pan inserted a few inches in water and rest- ing on a board, the surface of the soil in the pan having a covering of variegated Panicum. The stem is more like the trunk of a tree ; it is several inches in circumference, and rises many feet in height, the colour being of a deep green, freely interspersed with large dull white blotches varying considerably in size. At a height of about of 8 feet this huge stem divides into three, the immense leaf measuring in its native country 45 feet, and at Kew it is of great width ; the leaves are deep green, and by their abundance form a striking head. It is not in bloom at the present time, but the spadix when it appears is noteworthy ; it is purplish black, and of considerable height, the spathe having a width of over 2 feet. This Amor- phophallus is a native of West Sumatra, from whence it was introduced to this country in 1878- X. Chinese Primulas as basket plants. — I have never seen Primulas grown in baskets before, but, judging from a specimen we have here, one can see what beautiful objects they would be for the winter decoration of the conservatory. We have a plant here which I look upon as quite unique in this way. It has at the present time 150 fully open white flowers resting upon a rich background of sixty- two beautiful bronze-purple Fern-like leaves, and all facing one way. The history of the specimen is as follows : The basket (an ordinary wire one) hung below a high shelf at the back of a green- house, and contained a plant of Asplenium flabelli- folium. On this shelf Chinese Primulas are grown. 80 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 28, 1888. and some of them are allowed to seed there. One of these seeds dropped on to the mossy side of the basket and germinated there, and the plant was al- lowed to grow, for it was seen from the first that it would be a novel object if it grew well. The plant must be more than eighteen months old now, and has never been moved from its present position (which is about a foot away from the back wall) since the Primula was first noticed as a seedling. I am sure that any gardener having to keep a con- servatory gay during the dull winter months would admire it if he saw it. I should think from the healthy appearance of the plant that its roots have ramified through the Moss in the basket and revel in it. If I were going to grow a number of plants in this way I should sow the seed on the outer edge of the ba.sket close to the Moss, and allow the plants to grow without any transplanting. The plant under notice looks as natural and free as Primroses on a sunny bank in spring. — E. Lloyd, Brookivood. Tree or perpetual-blooming Carnations. — Time lost now can never again be recovered; therefore lose no time in getting in the cuttings of these choice plants. The earliest batch of cuttings should be in by the end of the month, the best place for them being a house with a tem- perature of about 50" to 55°. I do not like a very high temperature, as this causes weakly growth. There ought to be a nice bottom heat, and the cuttings should be covered with a hand-light, as they thus root more quickly, and scarcely any of them fail. If a hand-light is not available, plunge the pots containing the cuttings up to the rims, and lay a square of glass flat down over them ; the glass rests upon the labels with the cuttings immediately underneath, and they succeed equally well in this way. If they are plunged in an ordinary hotbed at this season no other adjuncts would be necessary. Thick cuttings of the main growths are the worst, and slips of slender growth taken from the sides the best. Light sandy soil, pressed moderately firm into 4-inch or 5-inch pots, with a sprinkling of sand on the surface, into which the cuttings are inserted, completes the operation. As a precaution, dip the cuttings into some soft soapy water to kill any green-fly which may, though unseen, be upon them. If any trace of it is upon the cuttings, the pest would multiply very rapidly in the warmer atmosphere. — J. Douglas. Camellia bnds falling.— Some years ago I took charge of a choice collection of Camellias, all of which, growing either in pots or tubs were, with four or five exceptions, very healthy. They had, however, always shed their buds just before burst- ing, while those that did flower developed bad and imperfect blooms. I learned from those in the garden that the plants had not been out of the house since they had been purchased; therefore, the following year I determined to let them set their buds outdoors, and for that purpose I selected a spot sheltered from the wind, but exposed to the sun. I put the plants out as each one had finished its growth, arranging them so that the air could circulate freely amongst them. In this position the plants set a large quantity of buds (as I was told they bad done before when kept inside), which were in time duly thinned out. My anxiety, of course, increased as flowering time came on to see if my ex- periment had the desired effect, which I was gratified to find it did, as very few of the strongest growing sorts threw any of the buds, and only those of more slender growth or perhaps badly rooted were un- satisfactory. An additional reason afterwards occurred which caused me to think my treatment so far was the right one, as in the course of time four of the largest plants, two white and two red varieties, were wanted for permanent places in the conservatory, from whence they could not be taken outside. These plants in two years also began to throw off most of the best buds, although they were as healthy as before. I therefore came to the con- clusion that outdoor treatment, for part of the time at any rate, was one safe point to follow, and I would advise those who complain of their Camellia buds falling prematurely to try this experiment. I do not assert that keeping the plants always indoors is the only cause of the buds dropping. Badly- rooted and unhealthy plants, unsuitable soU and bad drainage, or a sudden check in growth, too high a temperature, or neglect in watering, will all cause the buds to drop. I believe that in many instances Camellias are coddled too much, and, considering that they are a comparatively hardy class of plants, 1 am decidedly of opinion that to be successful no plant needs a more even temperature, and that at no time a high one.— Thomas Recced. WORK IN PLANT HOUSES. GLOXiNLiS, SEED SOWING. — Gloxinias raised from seed come in very useful, as they flower during the autumn, when the older plants have become ex- hausted with blooming. But, to give seedlings a chance of gaining sufficient strength to flower well, the seed should be sown early, say between the present time and the middle of February. Drain a large seed-pan, and fill it with compost consisting of equal parts sifted loam and peat, with some leaf- mould and sand. Enough of the two last should be used to make the whole light and open, so that when the time comes for potting the seedlings off they can be removed without seriously breaking the roots. Press the surface smooth, and give it a slight watering so as to close up the interstices, as small seeds like those of Gloxinias are liable to get too deep to vegetate. Sow thinly, and cover with as much of the soil as will hide the seed, again press- ing the surface smooth. Cover the pan with a sheet of glass to keep in the moisture, so as to avoid the necessity for giving much water until the seedlings come up. As soon as they are visible stand close to the glass ; this is most necessary with seedling Gloxinias, as otherwise the stems and leaves get drawn, and the flowers are too thin and soft to be of any use for cutting. Though the drooping or half-drooping varieties of Gloxinias are not now so much in favour as the erect-flowered sorts, they are equally deserving of attention from their less formal appearance. Caladium aegteites. — The leaves of this Caladium improve the appearance of most cut flowers, whether arranged as a bouquet, in stands, or in baskets. By a little forethought the plants may he had in good condition during the greater part of the year. With this object, some should now be potted. When the leaves are to be used for the purpose in question, it is better to grow the plants in small pots than in large ones, as they can then be more conveniently stood on shelves or in other places near the glass. This is necessary to ensure the leaves being sturdy enough to keep fresh and plump when cut ; without this they are of little use. Five-inch to 7-inch pots will be the best to use. The plants will thrive in either peat or loam, but in the latter the leaves have generally the most substance. Drain the pots well, putting some turfy material over the crocks to keep the soil from getting washed down. Avoid putting the tubers in as deep as is sometimes practised ; if the crowns are barely covered it will be sufficient. A tempera- ture of about (JO" in the night, with a little more in the day, is better than giving them more heat, as anything in the shape of forcing tends to weaken the growth. Do not give much water until the tubers begin to make roots, as until then they are liable to decay if the soil is wet. WiNTBK-FLOWERIKG STOVE PLANTS. — Any plants that have done [flowering, such as Sericographis Ghiesbreghti and Plumbago rosea, should receive less water, allowing the soil to become half dry, after which they may be cut close in. They should then be stood where they will have enough warmth to cause them to break slowly with a view to their furnishing cuttings to grow on to bloom next winter. Syringe the headed-in plants slightly once a day until they have again started into growth, after which give a little more water to the soil. The earliest lot of Poinsettias will now have done blooming. These also should be cut back. Young plants that were grown on from cuttings struck last spring may be headed down to within 0 inches or 8 inches of the bottom. Older examples should have their shoots removed to within a few eyes of where they were headed in to last year. The soil must always be partially dry before the tops are removed, and it must remain in this state until spring, when the plants are again started. The stools may be put away anywhere where they can have a little warmth, but not so much as will excite them into growth. Poinsettias that have been kept somewhat cool, with the object of their succeeding the earliest-flowered plants, may now be placed where they will have more warmth. Treated in this way, their coloured bracts will not come nearly so large as when the plants are kept through the autumn in a high temperature, but they will be quite as useful. Either when allowed to remain on the plants or when cut, the bracts will keep fresh much longer than when subjected to the heat that is necessary in order to obtain large heads of bloom. Gardenias. — Unless the plants have been espe- cially prepared for flowering in winter, there is generally a difficulty in getting the flowers to open at that time. The comparative absence of sun stops the development of the blooms to an extent not common to other plants, and which no amount of fire-heat can make up for. But if from this time the plants are kept close to the light and a tempera- ture of 68° or 70° can be maintained at night, there should be plenty of flowers in the course of a month. It is not advisable to syringe the plants much over- head, and this should be done early enough in the afternoons to admit of their getting quite dry be- fore night, as if water hangs about the buds for any length of time it has a tendency to cause them to fall oft'. Keep the soil in a fairly moist condition, but not too wet, for at this season any superabund- ance of moisture at the roots would cause the buds to drop. CupANIA FILICIFOLIA. — Amongst the various plants that are grown for the beauty or effective character of their foliage, this species of Cupania holds a leading place, its large feathery leaves being quite distinct from those of other things. It is a quick grower, attaining a height of 10 feet or 12 feet in little time. Where there happens to be a roomy conservatory, this Cupania is very effective, as it will do kept during the summer months in a house where there is little or no arti- ficial heat. The plant looks best when it is con- fined to a single stem. The foliage is not so en- during as that of some things, and so the speci- mens usually get bare at the bottom when they have made two or three years' growth, in which case they should be headed down to within C inches or 8 inches of the pots. Plants so treated make finer examples than young ones that have been struck from cuttings, as the growth that is made after heading down produces larger leaves at the bottom than younger plants are capable of do- ing. The best time for cutting back specimens that have got into the condition described is now, before the spring growth has begun to move. This will give a long season for the formation of new heads. Allow the soil to get partially dry before removing the tops, and afterwards stand the stools in a brisk heat and syringe overhead daily. Here they will soon push several shoots, all of which may be allowed to remain until they are 6 inches or 8 inches long, when all, except the one that is strongest and best placed, may be taken off and struck. After this, the plants should be turned out of the pots, and have as much of the loose soil shaken away as can be done without too much sacrifice of roots. Return them to the same pots, if these are large enough, and replace the old mate- rial with good turfy loam, to which a little sand has been added. If kept on through the spring and summer in a moderate stove heat in a light house, they will make handsome heads before autumn. RiiOPALAS. — These are well adapted for large conservatories where a limited number of specimens that grow tall without being bushy can with ad- vantage be introduced. The leaves of Rhopalas keep fresh and healthy longer than those of most things, so that examples that have reached a height of 10 feet or 12 feet may be often seen clothed with good foliage down to the pots. When they get bare at the bottom they should be headed down. As with the Cupania, the present is the best time Jan. 28, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 81 for carrying out the operation. After letting the soil get partially dry, sever the tops about 10 inches or 12 inches from the bottom. There is no necessity for cutting lower than this, as the new leaves will be sufficiently long to come down over the tops of the pots, and the more old stem that is left the stronger the plants will break. Most of the Rho- palas do not require much more than a greenhouse temperature, but after heading down, they are better for being kept in heat for some time, as when so treated they not only make greater progress, but the leaves also come much finer. They will bear moderate stove heat. All the shoots except one that appear may be taken off and struck after they have got G inches or 8 inches long. Afterwards re- pot in the same way as advised for the Cupanias. T. B. Kitchen Garden. KITCHEN GARDEN NOTES. Peas undee glass. — Where there is plenty of house-room in the shape of shelves, benches, or borders in various fruit houses and not far from the glass, early Peas may be grown in pots. It will be found by no means a profitable crop, fifty or a hundred pots rarely affording more than two gather- ings, but if these are available just when most wanted, they are certain to give more pleasure than any number of dishes later on. Both Chelsea Gem and American Wonder are suitable for pots, and may be at once sown thinly in lightly-drained 10- inch pots, firmly filled with rich loamy soil. They are not amenable to rapid forcing, but from the first should be brought on in very gentle heat, giving plenty of air as the plants grow. They ought to be lightly staked and have plenty of liquid manure from the time the pots are well filled with roots. We prefer to grow early Peas in rough pits, where they always do well. As these pits are at present filled with Strawberries in pots, and will not be available tUl the plants are housed or may safely be set in the open, we raise the Peas in boxes and plant out when about 4 inches high. The boxes are those used for bedding plants, and are filled with fine light soil, out of which the Peas may be shaken without much injury to the roots. The seed is sown about 1 inch apart each way, lightly covered, watered if the soil is at all dry, and then placed on the border of a late Peach house. Here the plants grow sturdily, and are ready quite as soon as wanted. Prior to planting, a slight hot-bed is formed in the pits, on this being placed about 10 inches of good loamy soil. When this is warmed through, deep drills are opened with a spade, the plants next shaken clear of the soil and laid in thinly, the roots being dropped to their full length into the soil, and firmly fixed and watered. The lights being put on and kept rather close for a time, a little protec- tion being also given every night, the Peas quickly take to their fresh quarters and should be lightly staked. If the pits or frames are available now, the seed may be sown where the Peas are to be cropped. In any case, the rows should be not less than 1 5 inches apart, and between these may be grown a row of Early Paris Market Cabbage Lettuce, the latter alone well repaying for all the trouble taken with the two crops. Early Peas in the open. — Autumn sowing is not often resorted to now-a-days, nor is this to be wondered at, seeing that it is possible to have them quite as early and with far less trouble by raising the plants under glass and planting out as early in the spring as the state of the ground and weather permit. Where slugs are troublesome it is almost impossible to preserve an even plant, and patchy rows are both unprofitable and an eyesore. The seed may be sown now either in 3-inch pots, troughs, turves, or boxes, as advised in the case of frame Peas, and be placed in a cool house to germi- nate, this being a far better plan than drawing them up weakly in heat. Being planted out before they become root-bound and lightly protected, very little check is given, and if not so vigorous as those sown where they are to grow, they are the quickest to mature a crop. Nothing is gained by sowing very early either on warm borders or in the open. The first or second week in February is quite soon enough, and rather than sow before the ground can be got into good working order, we prefer to wait another fortnight. Most of the early varieties grow to a height of 3 feet or rather more, and the rows ought to be at least 3 feet apart. The earliest crops are usually taken from warm wall borders, though it does not follow that they cannot be grown as quickly in the open. In most instances these borders are much too narrow, and tall Peas are apt to smother for a time both the valuable wall trees and any crop that may be growing at the foot of the walls. This difficulty may be obviated and better crops of Peas obtained if the tall varieties are about (') feet apart, and between these about four rows of the dwarf-growing Chelsea Gem, or, if preferred, American Wonder. Other spaces not needed for these could be devoted to Spinach, Lettuces, Pota- toes, or Cauliflowers, and all, including the wall trees, will get plenty of light and shelter. Peas without stakes.— Most of the Peas that arrive early in the markets are grown in the open fields and without the aid of stakes. No doubt gardens much sheltered promote the formation of taller haulm than is the case in the fields, but it will be found, if the plan is given a trial, that un- slaked Peas in gardens do not grow so strongly as those plants of the same variety that are staked. There is no better early Pea than William I.— in fact it is much superior to any of the small-podded, round-seeded sorts, and if the rows of this are drawn 2 feet apart, the seed sown in a single line, and the plants duly moulded up, a pro- fitable crop will result. Peas are naturally of erect growth, and if unable to retain that posi- tion they will yet keep their points well above the ground. Caractacus, a good form of Sangster's No. 1, is also a reliable early Pea, and has long been extensively grown for the markets. Spinach. — In but few gardens are there good breadths of winter Spinach, and as it is always in demand, seed should be sown as early as possible on a warm border. It is usually sown either be- tween the rows of Peas at this time, or between the intended sites of those to be planted out from boxes or pots, and being of quick growth, it is cleared off and used before the Peas unduly shade it. Round or summer Spinach is suitable for this sowing, fresh rows being sown as often as Peas. Victoria forms larger leaves and is less liable to run to seed prematurely — two good reasons for sowing it later on. If the ground about the winter Spinach is well stirred with the flat hoe occasionally, this will tend to promote the growth of large succulent leaves, so much desired by most cooks. Spinach Beet is more easily grown, and is very hardy and productive, but the quality is not equal to good Spinach. Begad Beans. — Where warm wall borders are of limited extent it is rarely advisable to devote any portion of them to Broad Beans. Ours are sown early in February in a sunny, open spot, and are usually quite as early as we need them. The old Early Longpod, or any good selection of it, is the most profitable for the earliest crops, being much more productive than the more showy Seville Long- pod. Beans delight in a firm, rich soil, and the seed may be sown or dibbled into double lines 3 feet apart or in single rows 2 feet apart. The plants ought eventually to be about G inches apart in the rows, as with plenty of room they branch strongly from the bottom. If extra early dishes are desired, sow the seed singly in 3-inch pots under glass, and harden off and plant out as soon as the weather and the state of the ground will peimit. Eaely Caeeots and Radishes.— Tender young Carrots are always appreciated, and a frame or frames may well be devoted to their culture. Shal- low frames are the best for this purpose, and these should be set on a gentle hot-bed, say about 3 feet high at the back and rather less in the front, and they ought to face the south. Some of the shortest of the heating material ought in most cases to be thrown into the frame, so as to bring the G inches of fine sandy soil placed over this very near to the glass, this being necessary to prevent drawn antl weakly growth, the more sturdy plants being the first to mature. If there is no danger of eventual over- heating of the soil the seed may be sown at once, or sowing may be delayed till the soU is warmed through. Form shallow drills with the aid of a short straight rod pressed into the soil and gently worked to and fro, and not less than 8 inches apart for the Carrots. Between these, also thinly in drills, may be sown the Radish seed, all being covered with a little fine soil. Our soil is usually moist enough, but when rather dry soil is used it should be moistened after the drills are opened and before the seed is sown. If kept close and dark the Radish seed soon germinates, and light and a little air must be admitted before the Carrots are visible, or otherwise the former will soon be spoilt. Pro- tect every night. French Forcing Horn is the earliest Carrot, but Nantes Horn is more profitable. The red and white extra early forcing Turnip Radishes grow very rapidly, and Wood's Frame is also first-class for frame culture and early borders. SUCCESSIONAL MUSHEOOM BEDS. — Much of the success attending Mushroom culture depends upon the quality and preparation of the horse-droppings used in their formation. If daily collected from corn-fed horses and stored thinly under an open- fronted shed, and not allowed to heat till sufiicient is obtained for one bed, a good start has been made. The next proceeding should be to throw all up into a square heap to ferment, the aim being to get rid of rank heat and poisonous gases without actually drying or robbing the manure of all its heating pro- perties. Directly the centre of the heap is found to be unbearably hot to the hand, turn it inside out, at the same time forking away any wisps of hay, and separating any masses of manure. A little short straw need not be objected to. Repeat this treatment every other day if need be, or, at any rate, often enough to anticipate a white heat, this quickly spoiling the manure. Three weeks is net too much time expended on the proper preparation of the droppings. If at any time the manure is found too dry to ensure decomposition, it must be watered, and when the fresh bed is formed, the material should be warm, moist, but not wet, well separated, and perfectly sweet. A bed may be about 15 inches high at the back and rather less at the front. It should be heavily trampled or beaten down with forks as each layer is added, and neatly finished off. If a plunging thermometer is not available, pointed stakes may be substituted. These, if thrust well into the bed and occasionally exa- mined, should denote, first, a steady rise to about iiO", and directly a marked decline is observable the time has arrived for spawning the bed. W. I. M. CULTURE OF THE CAULIFLOWER. The Cauliflower is at all times a favourite vegetable, but more particularly is it appreciated in early summer, and its cultivation receives attention at the hands of those whose aim it is to maintain an uninterrupted supply of good close heads as long as possible. In order to do this, autumn-raised plants, which are being wintered in 3-inch pots, and those pricked out in cold frames and under hand-glasses should be planted out between the rows of Peas in a piece of well-manured ground as early in February as the weather will permit. Draw the drills 3 inches deep and 24 inches apart. In these place the plants, disturbing the soil and roots as little as possible when turning them out of the pots. Press the soil firmly about the roots, then place a mixture of fresh soot and lime around the individual plants, in order to keep slugs at bay, following this with a protection of Spruce boughs— two to each plant. These, after an interval of a few weeks, should be remo\ed from one side of the plants to prevent them making a weaklygrowth, and, weather permitting, a week or two later they can be removed altogether, and the plants be earthed up in due time. Cauliflowers suffer very little in the process of being transplanted, and a few plants turned out of the pots carefully and planted about the same time at the foot of south walls, will, if protected from the ravages of slugs and attended to in the way of giving water at the roots when needed, yield an early supply of small useful heads. Later plantings should 82 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 28, 1888, be made at intervals of a week or two from the plants pricked out in pits, care being taken to have as much soil adhering to the roots as possible, and transplant in the manner indicated. Januabt-eaised plants.— Sow at once near the glass in a pit containing a gentle bottom-heat a pinch of seed of some good sort. The seedling plants, as soon as they are large enough, should be pricked out in boxes filled with rich soil, be watered, grown on near the glass for a few weeks, gradually hardened off, and in due time planted out as already advised. Sowings of Early London, Walcheren, and Veitch's Autumn Giant should be made in heat at the same time as Early Forcing and Snowball, and in other respects be treated alike. The produce of these varieties will give a succession ex- tending over several weeks. Sowings of the varie- ties mentioned should be made in the open on a warm border about the middle of April, May, June, and end of July, a week earlier or later according to the state of the soil. The young plants should be pricked out in nursery beds at (> inches apart, and be finally transplanted before they getorowded in the beds. During a dry summer the plants should be kept well supplied with water at the roots. Plants resulting from these sowings will, if subsequently attended to as already described, yield a supply of Cauliflowers well into the new year. In sum- mer the leaves should be bent over the flowers to keep them from the direct rays of the sun. In early winter the same practice should be had recourse to as a protection from a few degrees of frost. With the same object in view several heads with the greater part of the stems attached should be cut on the approach of frost and be placed on the floor of a cool house or shed where neither frost nor damp can harm them, and the Cauliflowers will remain fresh and in good con- dition for three or four weeks after being cut. H. W. W. duced remarkable crops. Peas suffer from drought, and thus it is that deeper sowing is necessary in light land. Mr. Eckford mulches the soil well about his Peas, and they stand well, and appear to suffer but little from mildew. This is good prac- tice, especially in the case of a dry summer like that of 1887. R. D. Trees and Shrubs. vr. GOLDRING. THE CAUCASIAN WALNUT. (PTEEOCAEYA CAUCASICA.) The chief difference between this and the true Walnut (Juglans) is in the fruit or nut, which, instead of being round and smooth, as in the common Walnut, has two wings on the outer shell or husk which envelops the bony nut ; hence the name Pterocary a. The Hickory nuts (Carya) are also closely allied to this genus. The Cau- casian Walnut is a very handsome and but little known tree, and, consequently, though often found in old gardens, it is seldom planted now- a-days. When fully grown it very much resem- bles the Hickory, having a wide-spreading growth and elegant leaves, composed of ten pairs of leaf- lets, which are of a beautiful deep glossy dark DEEP SOWING FOR PEAS. 1 THIKK that, as a rule. Peas are not only sown much too thickly, but also too near the surface. I was much impressed with Mr. Henry Eck ford's practice when visiting him at Boreatton during the summer. In testing his new seedlings (in all cases saved from flowers carefully fertilised), he sows the Peas 6 inches and 8 inches apart in the lines, and he also sows deeply. The result is really remarkable plants that branch freely from the main stem, and produce fine crops of very large pods. In this way he is able to ascertain what his new Peas are capable of, for they are thus subjected to a thorough test. As a rule. Peas are sown only to the depth of 2 inches or 3 inches, and probably in the majority of cases at the shallowest depth ; and when the freshly drawn-up soil over the Peas subsides to its proper level, they are not so deep in the soil as the sower often supposes. I know gardeners who say that if they sow to the depth of G inches the Peas will produce much larger crops than when sown H inches to 2 inches only. A good deal depends upon the nature of the soil. In soils of a cold and retentive nature Peas would be more likely to rot when sown at a depth of 6 inches, and, therefore, shallower sowing is de- sirable. Instances are recorded of this happen- ing. In the case of light, free soils, at least 4 inches should be given the seed, and especially in the case of strong-growing varieties like Cham- pion of England, Ne Plus Ultra, and British Queen. It is essential that these varieties should be of vigorous growth and stand well to produce good crops. The deeper the soil has been cultivated the deeper can the Peas be sown ; but Peas root deeply, and, provided the roots can go down well into the soil, the seeds need not be placed so far down in it. I have heard of Peas sending down their roots to tlie depth of :i feet, but it was in the case of soil that had been deeply trenched just previously and well manured. I never saw better crops of Ne Plus Ultra Peas than those taken from ground in which Celery had been grown the previous autumn and winter, the Peas having been sown in the lines occupied by the Celery after the ground had been well forked over. Here they rooted deeply and pro- has kindly furnished me with the dimensions of the tree, which are as follows : Girth of stem at 4 feet from ground, 11 feet 3 inches ; height, 4C feet ; circumference of head, nearly 70 yards. This tree is said to have been planted so recently as 1844, and this assertion is corroborated by an old inhabitant. If such be the case, this Pterocarya is of rapid growth, for the annual rate of growth would be about 1 foot. Mr. Burrell tells me that it is a gross-feeding tree, having widely-extending roots, which run just beneath the surface. He had occasion to cut a trench fully 15 yards from the trunk of the j tree, and there found a mass of roots which j when cut developed tufts of suckers at their tips much in the same way as Elms do. The ; Pterocarya should, therefore, be always planted ' in an isolated spot, where its hungry roots can- not feed at the expense of its neighbours, and especially Vines, as is the case at C.'aremont. j The Pterocarya is one of the first deciduous trees to burst into leaf, which, however, is no merit, but the contrary, inasmuch as the newly unfolded foliage is liable to be damaged by late frosts. Four years ago the foliage of the Clare- mont tree was completely blackened by a frost that occurred on the night of April 23, just when the buds had expanded. This so checked the tree that it did not recover during the whole season, the foliage not being nearly so fine as usual. The best position for a Ptero- Branch and leafless twig of Caucasian Walnut (Pterocarya caucasica). green, being often on young trees nearly 2 feet in length. Most of the specimens one sees of it are not much more than large shrubs with a number of slender stems springing from the base. This generally arises from the young trees having been cut back in an early stage of their growth, thus inducing the development of a number of suckers. For this reason the trees seldom make a distinct stem, and, therefore, never rise much above shrub height. I have met with but very few really fine specimens, and unquestionably the finest I have seen, and which is probably the largest in England, if not in Europe, is that in the famous old garden at Claremont, Surrey, now the residence of the Duchess of Albany. This is one of the grand places for trees, especially those kinds that were popular about the beginning of the present century, and, therefore, contains some very fine ornamental deciduous trees of various kinds. The Pterocarya at Claremont is growing in the old kitchen garden near — much too near — the range of vineries. When I last saw the tree it was at midsummer, when the foliage looked at its best, and the handsome spreading head, with branches sweeping the ground, had a very fine effect. Mr. BurrelJ, the gardener, Young leaf of Caucasian Walnut (Pterocarya oiucasica). carya, which is naturally a water- loving tree, is near the margin of a lake or stream, so that its roots may have plenty of moisture ; though some people say that if planted in moist soil in this country it docs 7iot ripen its wood well, and this may be true in some cases. In any place about a garden it is beautiful, and even when it is only shrub size, its long leaves, which are larger than on tall trees, have quite a sub-tropical appearance. It is a native of moist woods at the foot of the Caucasus, where it was first discovered by Steven, and subse- quently introduced to Europe about the year 1782, but it did not reach England till some time afterwards. It was at first known as Juglans fraxinifolia, the Ash-leaved Walnut, and Koch, the author of " Dendrologie," still adheres to the name Pterocarya fraxinifolia ; but Meyer's name, P. caucasica, is that by which it is best known in this country. Michaux called it Juglans pterocarpa, and other names for it are Rhus obscura and Fraxinus la'vigata. According to Loudon, the tree was re-introduced into Britain in his time by Messrs. Booth, of the Floctbeck Nurseries, under the name of Pterocarya caucasica. Loudon also sug- gests that it should bo grafted on the common Walnut in order to retard the foliage in spring, and, to induce it to form straight stems, he ad- vises that it be grafted standard high. thillyrea 'Vilmoriniana.— This new shrub has proved itself to be one of the finest of Ever- Jan. 28, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 83 greens for this country, being perfectly hardy and a good grower in any ordinary soil. Some of our principal nurserymen are beginning to appreciate its value and are working up stocks of it. It is totally unlike the ordinary kinds of Phillyrea, which are all small-leaved, while Vilmorin's has leaves as large as those of a Caucasian Laurel, of thick tex- ture, and deep green and shining. The growth is dwarf and spreading, and not nearly so slow as that of other species. It is, in short, a first-rate evergreen shrub, and one that will undoubtedly be much planted in future. It has withstood uninjured the severe winters of the past dozen years, notably those of 1879-80 and 1880-81. It goes by the names of P. decora and P. laurifolia, the last being more expressive of its character than the others. P. Vilmoriniana is, however, its correct name, being that given to it twenty years ago by Boissier, the author of the " Flora Orientalis." It was found growing in the mountain valleys at great elevations in Luristan, in Persia, and is said in a wild state to grow about 10 feet high, to which height it may attain in this country, seeing that it appears to enjoy our climate. — Q. Japanese Wycll Hazel. — The familiar Golden Jasmine and the Mezereon, hitherto the only flower- ing shrubs to be found in the open garden, have this week a beautiful companion, for the curious Hamamelis arborea has opened its myriads of flowers, which beset the leafless branches. It i; a much showier shrub than the commoner American Wych Hazel (H. virginica), as the flowtrs have vinous - purple sepals and golden yellow petals, which, being long, narrow, and twisted, have a singular appearance. It is in bloom at Kew, and will continue for some time. Though the name arborea indicates a tree-like growth, it is nothing more than a shrub like H. virginica, though in Japan it is said to grow 15 feet or 20 feet high. The other Japanese species, H. japonica and H. Zac- cariniana, are of smaller size. It is an interesting shrub for any garden, the more valuable as it always blooms in mid-winter. — W. G. NOTES OF THE WEEK. We learn that M. C. B-iltet, of Troyes, has been made a Knight of the L9gIon of Honour for his efforts in the promotion of horticulture. Mr. Burbidge, Trinity College Gardens, Dublin, writes : I never saw such a rich promise of flowers and of fruits as there is in gardens now. Every bulb and bud got thoroughly ripened up by the hot summer. American horticultural journals. — We learn that the Gardener's Monflihj and Horticnltnrist of Philadelphia has, owing to the death of its publiaher, Mr. Charles H. Marot, been sold to, and amalgamated with, the American Gardtn of New York. Mens. Benary and the Pansy. — A very showy plate of the Pansy, the nioat gorgeous yet devoted, perhaps, to this modest flower, comes from Mens. Benary. We regret, however, that the plate in question does as much as it can do to vulgarise the Pansy, as many plates and cuts do. Lily of the Valley tree (Andromeda flnri" bunda). — Mr. .J. Crook, Farnboro' Grange, Hants, has sent us flowers of this shrub to show how well it can be forced. It ha?, therefore, a double use, as it is in the open ground a lovely thing when in full bloom. More might be made of this Andromeda for winter-flowering. Crassula Septas is a little plant from the Cape of Good Hope, and resembles the London Pride (Saxi- fraga umbrosa) in its growth, foliyge and flowers. It 18 of about the sarao size, has rounded fleshy leaves toothed at the edges, and spikes of white flowers pro- ceeding from the rosettes of leaves, and is an interest- ing plant at this season. It is now in flower at Kew among other Cape pUnts. Iris alata. — I have lately seen several notes about this beautiful plant, and it may be interesting to some to know how it does here. It seems to be perfectly at Lome under a light at the foot of a south wall. In this pofeition, with the glass on during winter, air being given according to the weather, several small plants have grown to good flowering size, and this winter have flowered well. — R. I. Lynch, Cambridge. Oxera pulchella. — We have received from Mr. Ko's, of Pendell Court Gardens, Bletchingley, a spray of this beautiful plant, which was recently certificated by the Royal Horticultural Society. It is the most graceful and beautiful fiower we have seen for many a day. Dendrobium Fytchianum roseum. — This is a charming variety recently introduced from Burmab, and now flowering in Mr. Williams' nursery, at Hollo- way. In habit and growth it is the exact counterpart of the species, but the flowers, instead of being white, are beautifully suffused with a delicate shade of soft rose colour. White Freesias are in demand, and this will continue to increase as the public become acquainted with their thorough usefulness. Small bunches of the lovely, pure white Freesia refracta alba, it sent into the market in suflicient quantity, would com- pete severely with the Polyanthus Narcissus and others that are now held in high esteem. Zygopetalam Mackayi. — Mr. Rainbow, Broughton Hall, Yorks, has forwarded a fine spike of this handsome Brazilian Orchid. There were five flowers on the spike, and these represented an excellent form; the lip large, spreading', and beautifully pencilled with radiating purple lines; the sepals and petals boldly blotched with rich chestnut-brown on an olive-green ground. Double Chinese Primnla Marchioness of Exeter is one of the best varieties of its class, as the plants are at the present time crowded with perfectly double rosette-like flowers, large, full, and of an exquisite blush tint. A good one with a little Maiden-hair Fern is sufiicient lor a button-hole. If all the double varieties were only as free-floweiing as this and the old double white, we should see fewer single kinds. Highbury Fields are about to be beautified, as we learn that the Metropolitan Board of Works, urged on by the Islington Vestry, are about to do something towards making the Highbury Fields ornamental. It is the intention of the Board to form paths round the two northern portions of the ground, to plant trees and plants there, and to similarly improve the southern fields. The esti- mated cost, exclusive of labour, is over £1200. Kensington Gardens. — "We learn that a new- portion of Kensington Gardens has been thrown open to the public by the opening of a gate near the Palace Gardens. This has been done with the per- mission of the Queen. The new entrance has been rendered additionally valuable by the completion of new paths, the removal of a long high hedge forming the boundary of the gardens towards Palace Gardens Road, and the partial removalof the biick wall in the high road on the north tide of the gardens, and the substitution of open iron railings. New seats have also been provided. Hardy flowers at Tctteiiham. — Now that January is almost over, hardy flowers are appearing and will become more plentiful as the days lengthen. The following kinds are in bloom in an open border in the Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham : Crocus chrysanthus, C. alatavicus, C. Korolkowi, Elw€s' Snowdrop (Galanthus Elwesi), Iris Histrio and Mutcaii azureum. The latter is rather a new plant from Asia Minor, and one of the prettiest kinds of the genus; the flowers are very similar to those of the Grape Hyacinth (M. commutatum). Iris Var- tani is also in bloom. This is an exceedingly pretty Ir'.s, closely allied to I. Histrio, but it has rather smaller flowers, which are of a pale lilac colour, beautifully tinted with purple. This, I believe, has not previously flowered in England. — G. R. "Tamer Memorial" prizes for 1888.— An idea prevails that the prize money available from this fund should be set apart to give prizes for florists' flowers only. This is an error. The ex- pressed wishes of the committee were, that as the late Mr. Turner had a mind in active sympathy with every branch of horticultural work, and had introduced new varieties of fruits and vegetables as well as flowers, prizes should be given for fruits and vegetables. Acting on this assumption, the trustees have decided to give afresh prize of £10 at the Grand Yorkshire Gala, York, 1.3 th to 15th June, for a collection of ten distinct varieties of fruits. The society will j;ive £5, £3, and £2, as second, third. and fourth prizes. At the Crystal Palace, on October 11 to 13, the following prizes for twelve dishes of vegetables, distinct: first prize £1, second £3, third £2, fourth £1. These prizes are open to gentlemen's gardeners only.— JAS. Douglas, Hmi. Sec. tu " Turner Memorial" Fund. Itremorial to the rosarian, Francois La- charme. — M. L^viSque, on behalf of the committee in Paris and Lyons organised for the purpose of raising a memorial over the grave of this noted Rose grower, has asked me to distribute some circulais inviting the co-operation of English Rose growers. Naming the request to some members of the National Rose Society, it was suggested that it would be a graceful act if the contributions of the English growers took the form of a medallion with an English inscription on the tomb or monument, and on convey- ing this suggestion to M. LevCque, he writes that they would gladly accept such a contribution, and would give the English memorial a place of honour. Either Mr. D'Ombrain or I would be happy to re- ceive any contributions to this fund, which I need hardly recommend, so well was Lacharme's name known to all rcsarians. Subscriptions of 5s. to 10s. would suifice for all that is necessary. — Geobgb Paul. Death tf Mr. John Day, tf Tottetham.— It is with regret we have to announce the death of this gentleman, whose devotion to Orchids was widely known. He was a great enthusiast in the particular hobby he had taken up, and such Orchids as Lfelia Dayana, named in his honour, will keep his memory green in the minds of horticulturists. At one time he had one rf the finest collections in the country, this being dispersed in 1880. He did not, however, give up his favourite pursuit, but formed a collection smaller than the former, and only restricted to species and varieties of great rarity. So great was his love for Orchids, that it was his favourite pastime to make coloured draw- ings of the plants, spending considerable time in visiting collections famed for rarities and choice species. He also travelled abroad, visiting India, Ceylon, Jamaica, and Brazil, to gain a further knowledge of the plants by seeing them in their native wilds. We can ill afford to lose such an ardent specialist. BOOKS RECEIVED. " The Journal of the Linneau Society." Longmans, Green, and Co., London. " Fifth Annual Report of the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association." 188". "The Farmer's Frienda and Foes." By Theodore Wool, F.E.S. Swan, Sonnenscheim, Lowrey and Co., Paternoster Sfiuare. Names of plants. — CaWi/on.— SeeTnEG.ir.DEN, December .3 (p. 5t)5). UV fi'i'fc'j.-.— Pale form of Cattleya Triana;. H. D.— Celine Forestier. SJtrnh. — Ela-agnus pungens aureo-variegatis. A. ^r. — Clematis montana is a climbing species, with buds at the base of the flowering branches. C. Viticella is a shrub with climbing tendrils or pf-tioles. This species rarely, if ever, climbs, and flowers always terminate the branches, while C. montana flowers at the axils and continues grow- ing. li. B. (Snuthampton) . — The flower is not a Hydrangea, but appears to be a head of L-iurus- tiuus (Viburnum) tinus ; the other spray is a Grevillea, probablyG, alpestris. T. IT. — 1, male cone of Arau- caria imbricata; 2, cone of Pinus pungens; 3, ditto of P. parviflora. W. W. — 1, Oncidium Phalasnopsis ; 2, Pilumna nobilis. Sliirliy. — 1, Onychiuni japoni- cum ; 2, Adiantnm cirdiochlieuum. Kero. — 1, Bar- tramia crispa ; 2, B. ithiphylla; 3, Hookera lucens; 4, Dicranum adiautoides; 5, Bruim hornum. F. B. — 1, Saccolabium bellinuni ; 2, Masdevallia ichtlirdes. Record.—!, Cattleya choooeusis alba; 2, Maxil- laria picta. Names of fruit.— Ira»-7ipr.— 2, Waltham Abbey Seedling ; 3, Besspool ; 5, Lewis's Incomparable. • ¥, Bndijer. — Pear not recognised. Colonel Lork- ■u'Ohd. — We cannct tell what your Apples may be. They do not seem to us of nny value, as there are so many far superior. B. E. C. Chambers, — Y'ellow Apple, a fine specimen of Warner's King, well pre- .'^erved ; small Apple, not known. Pedro. — Aplpe Hambledon Deux Ans ; small Pear, Bergamote d'Esperen; other Pear, Vicar of Wlukfield. 84 THE GARDEN. [Jan. 28, 1888. WOODS & FORESTS. FORESTRY. In order to grow trees in the most profitable way, it is best to grow tbem ia large blocks. Trees planted in large quantities thrive better and give a quicker and better return than such as are planted in small numbers as belts and small plantations. This arises in a great measure from the shelter which the trees afford each other, and if thinning is properly attended to in the case of mixed plantations or where large timber is the object in view, the trees naturally attain fine straight stems with very little taper. As this is a point of much import- ance in successful tree culture, the advantage of such a system can be seen at a glance. When trees are properly thinned they require very little pruning, as the side branches gradually lose their vitality and fall to the ground, and it is only in cases where trees produce double leaders, or in the case of fracture by wind that pruning becomes necessary. When trees are grown in quantity and managed in this way the expense incurred for pruning is very trifling ; whereas trees in small masses and isolated posi- tions produce a larger quantity of branches, and consequently require mucli more attention in the way of pruning and training, and being more exposed they make less progress and often receive considerable damage during a storm. The great regulator of all commercial enter- prise is the price to be obtained for the article. In illustration of this I may state that the price which I have realised for fine clean Ash timber, the produce of large plantations, was Is. Gd. per cubic foot ; whereas timber of the same age, but grown in belts and small blocks, only fetched, as a general rule, Is. 3cl. per foot, while that of trees growing here and there only realised Is. per foot. These are the actual prices which I have received for timber grown under the con- ditions specified, and I think it is conclusive evidence of the utility of growing trees in large quantities. But Is. Cd. per foot does not represent the full advantage to the proprietor in this case. Trees grown in large blocks are generally clean, measurable timber for a distance of about three-fourths of the stem ; whereas trees grown in less quantities only average about two- thirds of a clean stem, and isolated specimens in many cases average OLly one-third. These are all points of much importance in tree cul- ture, and well worthy of the due consideration of extensive landed proprietors in the formation of their plantations. A great deal of this class of timber is used for shafts and handles, and when it can be supplied in quantity for any length of time it is an inducement to carpenters and turners, who use the wood extensively, to erect their machinery as near the plantation as possible, and thus render the cost of carriage in a rough or unprepared state very trifling. This is a matter of much importance, as I know that a consumer in the immediate vicinity of the plantation from whichlsupplied the timber saved about 4h. per ton in this way for carriage alone. When the timber is delivered from the planta- tion, it is cut up and made into shafts and handles of different shapes and sizes, and then packed iqi and sent off to its destination, where it is fitted on a variety of tools and implements, according to its make. By this system the owner has always a steady market, a fair price for his timber, and ready cash. One of tlie great drawVjacks to successful and profitable tree culture in this country is the heavy charge for carriage made by railway companies. As a general rule, their present rates should be re- duced at least one half, and in the case of rough. unprepared timber it should be brought down to even a lower scale. The cost of carriage in this country has always been a vexed ques- tion both to seller and buyer, and until some legislative steps are taken in the matter, I fear it wUl continue to be so. As an example of the evils of this high rate of carriage, I may state that in many cases the turner can have wood suitable for his requirements from Norway at a cheaper rate than I can supply the same class of timber and send it a distance of some forty miles by train. The foreigner in this case cuts his wood and allows it to become dry and seasoned with the bark on. He then cross- cuts it into suitable lengths according to order, packs it into bags, and sends it off to its desti- nation. By this means the weight and bulk, and consequently the cost of transit, are con- siderably reduced. On every hand we have abundant proof that, in order to grow timber in this country for profit, great economy must be the rule of the planter, from the time of the formation of his plantation until the trees arrive at full maturity. Large as well as small plantations require to be properly fenced at the outset, and the cost of fencing per acre varies to a large extent according to the size of the plan- tation. The cost of fencing small plantations is always higher in proportion to that of fencing a large area ; consequently this is another in- ducement to proprietors of waste land to plant their trees in large quantities, in order to reduce the expense of the formation as much as pos- sible at the outset. It is also more economical to purchase large quantities, as in this way trees can be obtained at a far cheaper rate. J. B. Webster. The Douglas Fir as a timber tree.— Con- sidering the widespread interest awakened by the first thinning o£ the trees of Abies Douglasi at Tay- mount, perhaps the following will be of interest to a large number of your readers. The plantation of Honey Hill, Soone Estate, consisting of 13 acres, was laid down in 1857, and is therefore now thirty- one years of age. The soil is moor, with a strong retentive subsoil, and is much exposed to the west and north winds. It was enclosed with an upright paling, proof against hares and rabbits. The trees were planted in lines at 9 feet apart, and 9 feet between the lines. The nurses were of Larch and Scotch Fir in equal numbers. All made a suocess- £al and rapid start, but during the Tay Bridge gale ninety-six trees of the A. Djuglasi were blown over. Some of these were set up again ; but the greater number were cut over, and their places filled up with fresh plants. In consequence of so many A. Douglasi trees having been blown over, the nurses are not yet all removed. This plantation is at present underKoing a regular course of thinning, which consists chiefly in removing nurses that are interfering with the trees ot A. Douglasi. The difference in the comparative growth of the A. Douglasi and Larch is worthy of notice. I measured three of the former: — cub. ft. First tree SOxlfi 27 6 7 Second tree ... 30 x 12i 33 6 7 Third tree 30x12^ 32 G 7 The largest Larch tree in the jilantation contains 12 cuVjic feet, which for the age is a large growth in Larch ; but the A. Douglasi trees yield a cubic foot for each year of their growth. The sale of the thinnings ot the plantation at Tayraount took place on the 2:ird ult., and they were sold at about the same rate as those o£ Larch. The largest class sold at about Is. per cubic foot — William M'Corquo- DALB, in the Pcrllishire Constitiitiimul. Carex divulsa.— In The Garden of Dec. 24 (p. 591) "M. A." recommends Carex divulsa as an excellent subject for covering bare places under trees in winter. I have used it as such, and found it to be in every way suitable for this purpose. It Is very hardy, as I have planted it successfully at an elevation of upwards of 1000 feet above sea level. It thrives well under trees and is adapted for planting either on the flat surface of the ground, or in masses on small mounds of earth or rock where a little soil can be procured to cover the roots. When the plants are established in this way their glossy green leaves during winter are very pleasing and attractive. — J. B. W. Preserving wood.— The EUeard Floral Com- pany ot St. Louis write us in regard to the merits of a new process for preserving wood, and which they believe will be of value to builders of green- houses, which of all buildings are most subject to decay through the alternate soaking and drying they are subject to. The company have the past summer built a Rose house 20 feet by 104 feet, con- structed entirely of the prepared wood (Pine), as a test ot the material. They have, of course, so far been able to ascertain only that the chemicals used are not injurious to the plants, which they state have made good roots and splendid progress. The pre- pared wood is guaranteed to last three times as long as that not treated, and the treatment costs but little. The wood is prepared by impregnating it with a solution of chloride of zinc and sulphate of lime. It is placed in large metal cylinders and steam introduced until the wood is heated to the boiling point, thereby destroying the fermentable elements and the sap, after which the steam is blown off and the solution above named is let in and heated by means of steam coils, being left to operate on the wood under a pressure of GO lbs. to 100 lbs. until impregnation is complete. One cubic foot of white Pine or Cypress will absorb from G lbs. to 7 lbs. of the solution. It is known as the zinc-gypsum process. Works for preparing the wood have been erected at St. Louis and are conducted by a company styled the American Wood Preserving Company. The value of anything of this kind can only be demon- strated by the lapse of time, and the result of this experiment of the Elleard Floral Company will be looked for with interest, as the value of the process — if the claims made are verified — cannot but be great to builders of plant houses. — American Florist. SHORT NOTES.— WOODS AND FORESTS. A covert plant. — The Royal Fern makes a good covert plant, and when grown in damp, boggy situations, under the shade of trees, it often attains a large size. It is said to be rather scarce in Ireland, and is only recorded as having been found at a few places in the south of that country. I have, however, found it in the Lough Neagh district, in the north, notably at AnagarrifT Lake, co. Armagh. — J. B. W. Rabbits destroying trees. — In going through the woods and planfcitions here (where rabbits are, unfortunately, very numerous) I found that during this mild winter many of the trees, such as Ash, Oak, Laburnum, Alder, all the IloUies and Liurels, and also several Beech trees, measuring from 4 feet G inches to 5 feet in circumference, had been peeled round to a height of IG inches. As t have never heard nor seen the like before, and always understood that the Laburnum and Laurel were rabbit-proof, I shall be glad to know if any of your readers have noticed the same. — J. W. Phing, Linghnme, Cumherland. The White Cedar (Capressus thyoides). — " A. D. W." in The Gahden, January 21 (p. G8), does not give the size of the tree he describes. We have a specimen here more than 50 feet high with a spread of branches of about 40 feet, the stem at the base being 8 feet G inches in circumference, and at 2 feet from the ground 7 feet 8 inches, where it branches off into two main leaders and other large branches. It is in perfect health and heavily laden with its small grey cones, the ground also being covered with them. Al- though it is described as growing nitarally in damp localities, the specimen is growing in pure loam, with a subsoil of volcanic rock on rising ground with a southern aspect, but well sheltered from north, east, and west winds. It seems, therefore, that shelter is most essential, as the brittleness of its wood and heavily-berried branches cannot withstand the gales wo are subject to. — J. Garland, KlUrrton, li.reter.^ *#* With the above note was sent a healthy, heavily- berried branch of this Cedar. — Ed. THE GARDEN. 85 No. B46. SA TURD A K, Feb. 4, 1888. Vol. XXXII f. "This Is an Art Which does mend Nature : change It rather ; but The Art itself is Nature."— 5Aateaj»care. THE UGLY PINCUSHION BOUQUET. To THE Editor of Thk Garden. Sir, — How much longer will any lady with the slightest pretension to taste persist in carrying to ball or party that great mass of jammed together blossoms stilted on wires and petticoated in lace, or, worse still, in a sham lace paper, and miscalled a bouquet] A good bold handful of fresh and fragrant blossoms and foliage, as choice and dainty as may bo, when cut with long stalks or stems, ar- ranged loosely, simply and naturally, and bound together by a bit of ribbon or a silken string, would serve every purpose for which the mushroomy masses of blooms known as bouquets are now used. As it is, every one bouquet is very much like another, and com- petition itself is limited to emulation as to mere size or to the money value only of the flowers of which the bouquets are made. "What I would like to see is a revolution as to this old fashion in bouquets. When I spoke to a professional florist on this point the other day, he said that bouquets were "good for trade," but I believe that the bold handful of any one or more kinds of choice flowers tied up gracefully in posy fashion would prove far more profitable to the florists in the long run than the ugly confection or heap of flowers now in use. The posy would lead to more kinds of flowers being used, and an assemblage of fair women might be a " flower show " of the sweetest and best. As it is, the " bouquet " has only one form, and that a bad and heavy one. Tlie flowers come upon one with irritating uniformity — Violets, Rose buds, Stephanotis, Tuberoses, Camellias, Gardenias, white Lilac, or perhaps a few Orchids are used for what are to be expensive arrangements. Each flower has its head nipped off' as if it were a venomous snake, and the head is then impaled on steel wire as if to carry out the resem- blance to the heads of traitors formerly exhi- bited on our old city gates or walls. But in the bouquet they are jammed together in a mass, and nearly, if not all, their individuality of grace, form, and exquisite shades of colour is gone, never to return. After I had seen the florist, I spoke to a lady, who, agreeing with me, said, " You must get the Queen or the Princess of Wales to carry posies instead of bouquets." But I think that ladies will consider the immense difference from all points of view — cost, grace, lightness, sweetness, and the great impetus they would give to floriculture if they would throw over the " big mushroom " and carry our garden flowers in their simple grace and beauty. Veronica. *^* It would be a great step this, but the posy itself was a "jam,", so we think the best way would be not to use the word posy — cut flowers is name enough. Let a lady wear her favourite flower, or two or three in simple association, and give up the dumplings ! There is a shocking waste of time and energy in making ugly arrangements of flowers; they all prevent the beauty of the flowers being seen. Will any lady readers of The Garden kindly give us their ideas on the point 1 — Ed. GROWING OUR OWN SUGAR IN OUR APPLES. Circumstances have hitherto prevented me from assisting in the present praiseworthy effort put forth with such vigour in The Garden to select the very best Apples and Pears for general culti- vation. But there is one point of such importance, that I hasten to back you up in at once, and that is tbe great necessity of growing our own sugar in the fruit instead of purchasing it ; and this not merely or chiefly because home- grown sugar is the cheapeat, but the best. The sugar which we add to our Apples only robs them of their specific and delicate aroma, reduces their quality, and renders them insipid and common - place. For example, cook a Beaufin or a French Crab in sugar, and you have a pulpy mass, or pieces of coloured matter that may be Apple, Rhubarb, or Swede Turnip, as the eater may fancy. But cook a Ribston, Blenheim, Cox's Orange, or Newtown Pippin, or even King of the Pippins or Cockle Pippin, and each will be found not only most agree- ably sweet, but so specifically distinct as to form a different dish. The finest Apples for cooking are, without doubt, the Ribston and the Newtown Pippins at their best, and both are not only greatly deteriorated, but half- spoilt in flavour by any additions of foreign sugar. I have, in fact, long held the opinion that the best eating Apples are also the best cooking ones. Convenience, the possession of kitchen varieties, and the perversity of cooks in heavily dredging all Apples with sugar frequently over- throw one's convictions, and go far to ruin the best Apple pies and puddings. As a fact, the popular custom of adding paste and sugar to most cooked Apples is largely responsible for the loss of most of their richest and most deli- cate aroma, as well as the source of their un- wholesomeness to so many consumers. Butter, batter, dripping, and sugars of the rankest, roughest character, but little superior to mo- lasses— in the name of all our finest Apples, why should these be allowed to destroy all the most delicate and delicious flavours of our choic- est Apples ? No ; if we wish to enjoy the latter in perfection, let us either roast them in their skins, or skin and core and place in a pipkin, as you did the Newtown Pippins, and enjoy a feast of Apples pure and simple, and free from the suspicion of paste, treacle and fat. I knew a lady once so determined to eat her Apples pure, that she would seldom eat them only roasted or baked entire. Beginning with the old Keswick Codlin, she went on to the New Hawthornden, Cellini, Alexander, King of the Pippius, Cox's Orange Pippin, Ribston, Calville Blanche, and wound up with Court Pendu Plat. All were enjoyed in their season, but the feast of aromatic pleasure culminated in the Calville Blanche grown on the bottom of Peach walls. The rule for all was little or no sugar, and that paste ruined the flavour of Apples. Few things would forward the growth of our own sugar in our Apples more than if the heads of houses would see to it that no sugar is allowed to be added to the Apples before cooking or eat- ing. This practice would not only improve the flavour of any Apples that needed additional sugar, but would open the eyes of the people to the enormous consumption of sugar in re- ducing all our Apples to a sort of dead level of mediocrity of flavour. Even the most common- place Apples are improved in being cooked or stewed in their own juices, adding sugar to taste afterwards. But by growing only the finest Apples an enormous saving of sugar will be effected, while the most wholesale deteriora- tion and destruction of Apple flavour, through the abuse of sugar, will be prevented. D. T. F. STANDARD PEARS FOR BRITAIN. No. 1. — The Jargonelle. Apart from early Pears, of which a few may be grown by those who care for them, the Jar- gonelle is the earliest of our standard Pears. We should like to have information concerning it from our fruit-growing readers in every county (both in England and Scotland) as to its hardiness, bearing qualities, the best style of cultivation (whether against a wall or in the open), and the most suitable stocks. Why is it not grown more in the south of England ? How far' north in Scotland is it profitably grown away from walls l Has it in some places been driven out of cul- tivation to make room for new or untried varieties ? How does it thrive in Ireland and the west of England ? We have evidence of the great value of this Pear for nearly four centuries in our country, and any information that will enable people to grow it better and enjoy it more will be very welcome to us. Next week we shall give its history. TOO MANY PEARS. Referring to my suggestion that you should ask your readers in all parts of the kingdom to send you a list of twelve sorts that each sender has practically tested as being in all respects good, and that from such data a list of the twelve best for all parts might be compiled, I fail to see in what way, as stated by you at p. 46, "such an idea is to blame for the poor show of fruit." To me it seems as if the very opposite must happen if a collection of varieties be weeded down from one hundred kinds to a dozen, and that by persons having special know- ledge of the varieties of Pears, as, of course, it must be inferred that none others would send you lists. I quite approve of the effort you are making to get the names of kinds that will turn out good in all parts of the kingdom, but I am not so sanguine as you appear to be as regards getting even a dozen, and with less than that it is ridiculous to suppose a constant supply could be had the season through. For argument sake I wDl take your list of five (p. 69) that you have already selected, and my opinion is the same as your own as regards four of them. As to Jar- gonelle, though of excellent quality and produc- tiveness, it rota almost before it is ripe, and therefore, in my opinion, is perfectly worthless. A few Unes lower down, in the same column, Mr. Bunyard— than whom there is no better fruit authority— falls foul of Winter Nelis and Marie Louise "because the trees are very tender." Hampshire climate, therefore, beats Kent, for they are not tender here. Another argument in favour of ray sug|estio5i is of 86 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 4, 1888. your obtaining the names of the best sorts over as wide an area of the country as possible. I am longincr to see your list of five increased to a dozen, and to take one kind off is not the way to Jo it ; but I substitute a better, and give you Williams' Bon Chretien for Jargonelle, and my other seven are Fondante d'Automne, Beurr6 Supertin, Thompson's, Glou Morceau, Huyshe's Victoria, Olivier de Serres, and Bergamotte d'Esperen. W. Wildsmith. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Bougainvillea speeiosa. — Mr. Frederick Miller, Nortlulown House Gardens, Margate, has sent us two magnificent sprays of the beautiful Bougainvillea speeiosa. The vi\'id rose-purple colour of the flowers is most striking by reason of the dense mass of bloom. Narcissus cyclamineus.— Mr. T. S. Ware, of Tottenham, has sent us a pot of this Narciss to show how useful it is at this season. An excellent engraving of N. cyclamineus is given in The Garden for May 28, 1887" (p. 483). Cypripedium Morganise is again flowering in Mr. Williams' nursery at Holloway. Not only can this plant claim to be the grandest hybrid yet obtained, and one of the very finest of all the Slipper Orchids, but it is one of the freest bloomers in the whole genus. — W. H. G. Chinese Date Plum (Diospyros Kaki). — We have received from Mr. G. F. Wilson, Heatherbank, Weybridge,a fruit of the Kaki, or Chinese Date Plum. It resembles very much a medium-sized Tomato fruit, as brilliant in colour, and with a Plum-like flesh. It is said that the Chinese use them as sweetmeats after they have been sun-dried. Cyclamen eoum. — The most beautiful spring flower now at ( )akwood is Cyclamen coum ; it is grow- ing in the full sun in a bed containing old mortar. After many experiments, I am sure that this treatment suits hardy Cyclamens better than any other we have tried. Both flowers and leaves are finer and brighter in colour. — George F. Winsn.v, Heatherhanl; Wetj- brid'je Heath. Violets and Lilies of the Valley.— I have en- closed a bunch of Swanley White Violets and a few sprays of Lily of the Valley for your acceptance. The Lilies are from crowns prepared at Lifton Park. — G. H. MouNsuoN, Lifton Park. *«* A beautiful gathering of double, highly fragrant Violets and Lilies of the Valley. Such flowers are delightful at this season. — Ed. White African Lily (Agapanthua umbellatus candidus).— Some time a<;o I noticed in The Gardex some remarks on the white Agapanthus, and the dith- culty of obtaining it. I send you a head of bloom of the above variety, which you will see is pure white. This, of course, has been forced. I will send you later on a head of bloom cut from a plant in the open, so that you may see that glass is not necessary to have the flowers white. We have grown it now some seven or eight years. It is easily cultivated and may be readily forced, while each bloom may be cut and wired, thus rendering the plant additionally useful. — E. Peter.s, Oucriixcij. Primrose flowers. — I enclose a few Primrose blooms to show bow well tbey open in a cold frame. We have had blooms out of doors as early as this, but very rarely are they fit to gather for at least another month, owing to frosts or gales of wind disfiguring them. Last autumn I lifted sufEcient roots to fill a good-sized frame, planting them in the soil from which Melons bad just been cleared. They are now a mass of bloom, and most useful at this dull period of the year for many purposes. After a spell of mild weather sharp frost has set in, and this morn- ing the thermometer stood at 17°, or l.'j'' below freezing point; it is to shelter these early-flowering plants that cold frames are so valuable. I have no doubt but that many of your readers would like to try them in pots.— ,1. Ghoom, O'osjMirf.. A yellow Oyrtanthus (C. lutescens).— A short time since we made a note of C. McKeni, remark- ing how beautiful it is, and liow valuable it must become as a winter-flowering plant. The yellow Cyrtanthus may be said to be the counterpart of the white except in colour. The flowers arc about the same size and borne in the same way, but are, ( instead of white, of a beautiful clear yellow. It stands out conspicuously from the numerous plants to be seen in bloom in the house at Kew devoted chiefly to plants from the Cape of Good Hope. This bulb seems to be deciduous, as the leaves are only par- tially developed, whereas C. McKeni flowers after the leaves are fully grown. The flowers are pro- duced in clusters of about half a dozen on the top of stems about 9 inches high. The bright and clear yellow flowers are a marked contrast to those of the white-flowered species. The hybrid, C. hybridus, a cross between C. sanguineus and ^'allota purpurea, is also again in flower. The D' Arcy Spice Apple. — Mr. Bunyard sends this from Maidstone. A delicately flavoured, tender- fleshed Apple, of which more ought to be known. It is worth eating. But King of the Pippins is the most popular Apple, at least according to the report of the Apple congress — " what does it matter so long as it sells and looks well outside ? " llasdevallia racemosa Crossi. — This is a natural hybrid, and seldom to be met with in such perfection as we lately saw it in The Dell collection, where it is now in bloom. It is placed in the coolest house, and thrives vigorously in a very moist situa- tion, growing well in a basket. Its blossoms are of a brilliant orange-scarlet, very effective, and borne well above the foliage. Out of several recent im- portations but few plants have arrived in a living state, owing to the thin, fleshy nature of the stems. —A. D , Jlerfs. Violets from Mayo.— Herewith I send you some flowers of the Violet, Cooloronan Hybrid, which is blooming with great freedom. I have had the plants in flower for nearly two months, and they are planted in a cold frame, always kept open by day. I have also Pan Anemones in full bloom, also many of the common single sorts. *f* The flowers received were large, paler in colour than those of Marie Louise, and finer than those of the well-known Neapolitan. Their full fragrance is delicious; a small bunch scents a room. —Ed. Flowers at Pendell Court. — Amongst the interesting plants in bloom at Pendell Court, Bletchingley, are a few things worthy of special note. The beautiful Astrapsea WaUichi adorns the stove with its drooping umbels of scarlet flowers, and in the Lily house Canna Nouttoni is flowering freely ; this and the better-known C. Ehemanni make a charming couple when planted by the edge of a tank. They throw up robust leafage and fine spikes of flowers. C. Nouttoni has narrower, more glaucous leaves and brighter- coloured flowers than C. Ehemanni. Another fine jilant now in flower is Billbergia decora, a most handsome Bromeliad ; it has large, boat-shaped leafy bracts of a beautiful warm rosy colour. There is also in bloom the scarlet Spiranthes speciosus. Snake's - head Eestrepia (R. ophiocephala purpurea) — This is a very singular little Orchid, and one that I do not remember having seen in flower before. Though called a Kestrepia, one can- not see the relationship at first sight between it and the well-known K. antennifera. It is a good deal like the latter sjiecies in growth, the leaves being thick and rounded. The flower comes from the top of the leaf-stalk, and is about an inch across, the two rounded sepals being like a gaping mouth. The colour is a bright vinous purple, with mottlings of white at the base of the uppermost one. It is, I believe, also called a Pleurothallis. A true Orchid lover, such as the late Mr. .John Day, would have been delighted with this little gem. It may be seen in the Kew collection, and it promises to last a long time in bloom. — W. G. The Loquat flowering' in Worcestershire. — I beg to enclose a spray of the Loquat (Erioboti-ya japonica), gathered from a treegrowingin the open air at Levant Lodge. I believe there is no record of this plant having flowered so far north as this before. The plant at Kew, which has been there many years, has, Sir J. Hooker tells me, never bloomed. Mr. Kent planted two little trees here about ten years ago — one is against the front of the house facing the east, which has grown well, but has shown no .sign of flowering ; and the other against the kitchen wall, which has a south aspect and forms part of a court- yard; the house gives it protection from the north and east winds. This tree flowered once before, about three years ago, in March. It has now been in blossom since September, giving out a most frag- rant scent whenever the sun shines. It has had no screen but such as is provided by its large ever- green leaves. I thought that some of the readers of The Garden might be interested in this account. A few blooms are forming fruit, but it cannot be expected that the fruit will be matured. — Edith Kent. *f* It will be interesting to see if the fruit ma- tures. There is a record in The Gakden, April 2 (p. 345), of a Loquat in the gardens of Stawell House, Richmond, bearing a fine crop of fruit. About a dozen bunches were on the plant, each bunch composed of from five to ten fine fruits. But this is in a southern county, and therefore warmer than Worcestershire. — Ed. Callas are extensively grown for the market, and the bold, handsome, laly-like flowers never want buyers. It is at this season that they realise the best prices; and to have them now it is necessary to give plenty of stimulants and a moderate amount of heat. In the Swanley Nursery are plants in rude health throwing up many spikes, each bearing a flower of fine proportions and exquisite colour. The propagation is effected by the side shoots that spring up round the base of the plant, and these are taken off, potted up, and when well established planted out for the summer in trenches. Here they gain strength for a full display of flowers in the winter. When autumn comes they are potted up and kept in heat. Manure water is given, and this induces handsome foliage and finely-developed spathes. Clematis indivisa. — A plant of this beautiful New Zealand Clematis is trained under the glass in one of the houses in the nursery of Messrs. H. Cannell, Swanley. One of the special points of usefulness in this plant is its quick growth, as it covers a comparatively large space in a short time, the graceful twining shoots being crowded with white, fragrant flowers, that when seen in a mass are delightful. It is of such a free-blooming nature, tliat one specimen will afford consider- able material for filling epergnes, &c. In its native home of New Zealand it is said to be very common, smothering lofty trees with its rambling growth, and doubtless hedges, as is the wont of our own native Traveller's Joy (C. Vitalba). Those who have not yet got C. indivisa should include it, as it is easy to grow in a large greenhouse, or a small one for that matter, only restriction would be necessary. A coloured plate of the variety lobata was given in The Garden for Oct. L'T, 1877. Iris fimbriata might be appropriately called the greenhouse Iris, it being the only one of the many Irises in cultivation that is always grown in the greenhouse. It is a very beautiful plant, flower- ing in the middle of winter and at other seasons, but for winter alone it is invaluable. It has ever- green foliage resembling that of other broad-leaved Irises, and the tufts are gracefully reflexed. The flowers are about 4 inches across and of a lovely pale mauve colour, with blotches of bright yellow. The erect stigmas are finely fringed ; hence the name fimbriata. It is also called I. cbinensis, as it is a native of China. It requires ordinary green- house culture, and may be grown t3 perfection with but little attention ; in fact, it only requires potting at wide intervals, as it seems to flower most abun- dantly if the roots are pot-bound. It is especially adapted for planting out in a cool house. Anew race of greenhouse Rhododendrons is being promoted by Messrs. A^eitch, of Chelsea, and it is likely that good results will be obtained, as the object in view is to induce a greater compact- ness of growth and bushy habit than is characte- ristic of the Javanese varieties that have now proved their usefulness in many ways. If these have one fault it is their leggy, rambling habit, but by selecting hybrids from this section and crossing them with the Sumatran R. Curtisi, R. Teysmanni &c., it is hoped to accomplish the desired end' From what we could see of the many seedlings Feb. 4, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 87 this will be secured, and one variety we noticed showed a great advance. This was the result of a cross between Teysmanni and Lord Wolseley, a hybrid of the Javanese section. The flowers were deeper in colour than those o£ the species, full, large, and altogether of exceeding beauty, the head comprising several blooms. Here we get the colour of the species, and, as pointed out a short time ago, the species gives the colour, and also, where it is scented, a desirable fragrance. One variety was agreeably sweet, this having R. Curtisi for one of its parents, which is slightly fragrant, and has the bushy habit now wanted in the new group. We have so far, as the result of the intercrossing of the Java and Sumatra Rhododendrons, an inter- mediate race as regards flowers, with a compacter habit of growth in the plant. And there is plenty of material to work upon now that the Javanese hybrids have been raised to such a high condition, as they seem ever improving, the flowers showing a remarkable diversity of brilliant and soft-toned hues, with an evenness, substance, and boldness that render them of immense value. As will be seen from the report of the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society at South Kensington, one of the new race of hybrids, named Primrose, was certificated, and there are others in store for us. Cape Ivy is the popular name given to one of the climbing species of Groundsel from the Cape of Good Hope. It is Senecio macroglossus, and is more like an Ivy in growth than any other plant, the leaves being of similar size and shape as those of some of the forms of Ivy. The flowers are 2 inches across, in shape like those of an Ox-eye Daisy, and of a clear yellow. They are borne on slender stalks, and hang from the long twining stems in a most elegant way. It is a pretty plant to festoon a pillar or rafter of agreenhouse,andbeing a winter flowerer, it is appreciated. It ought to be- come commoner than it is. It adorns one of the rafters in the Cactus house at Kew at the present moment in a most charming way. Cineraria cruenta, although by some con- sidered rather weedy, has its uses, and one is for supplying cut flowers during the early part of the year when Primulas and Cyclamens are the chief things available. It is also interesting as the type of the great race of florists' varieties, very few of which, we venture to say, have the brilliant colour, more like magenta than anything else, but perfectly pure, that characterises this Teneriffe species. In the Swanley Nursery there is a batch of plants commencing to bloom and a few specimens show- ing a good head of flowers are most acceptable at this season for beautifying the greenhouse, con- servatory, or apartment. The plants are propagated by division, and only care is necessary to have them iu good condition at this season. It should be a favourite of all who require pleasing flowers during the winter months. NOTES FROM HANTS. After five years' absence a correspondent sends us the following notes : " I arrived here after my long illness too late in the autumn to see the shrubs with their leaves on, but I think the brown stalks of the Comptonia are a witness to its still growing well. My doctor will not trust me near a tree till I get stronger, but, alas ! I fear I never shall be strong. Continual over - exertion both from planting in the fields, and finally sight- seeing in old Rome, have ' finished ' me, and I have to go mostly in a Bath chair to give directions for cutting down and transplanting. The loss in herbaceous things here from my long absence is woeful ; and, alas ! the labels. I took great pains with them. My rustic gardener could not read, and thought that so long as a label was stuck in I should not be aware that (e g.) a Pieony was not a Maple. There has been dreadful havoc among them. Still, it was pleasing to find that the P. lasio- carpa, Nordmanniana grandis, Sabiniana, nobilis, Douglasi, Pinsapo, Laricio, and orientalis had grown into splendid trees. One of the loveliest is the (improved) Hemlock Spruce (Abies Mertensi or Albertiana). Then the Ilexes have made a wonder- ful growth ; from being stubby little bushes they have quite an Italian aspect. I think, however, that the variety I. Fordi is more interesting than the ordinary one. I had such a lovely Fordi — per- fect, though it had been transplanted (a severe trial for an Ilex), and, imagine — the day before Christ- mas Day, hearing a noise as of chopping, I caught the two sons of my ' respectable ' tenant high up in its branches, cutting down with an enormous chopper their own Christmas decorations in my own private plantation. What lovely plantations suffer from the callous roughness of English urchins is untold. They have shaved my lovely Swedish Junipers and cut off tops of the rarest things. " Among herbaceous things which have shown their capacity for survival under most adverse cir- cumstances, I note some Pelargoniums, especially Andrewsi and a blue one (I think, Endlicheri), but of these herbaceous things I can hardly give a good account until the spring. Sternbergia lutea is still in flower with me. I wonder if you have ever seen the Anemone ranunculoides growing really well in this country. On my last journey home from Rome I visited Rousseau's Les Charmettes, near Chambery. The lane bank was covered with them. I imported some in my portmanteau, but fear, in the lahsez aller here, they may be no more. Builders trampling down the garden have finished what absence from home began. They tumbled a brickbat into the centre of a lovely Chamterops which was really thriving in the open. The Himalayan Bamboo has done gloriously here, and has quite a sub-tropical aspect ; likewise a set of spiny shrubs which I lilanted in a semi-public thoroughfare, to see if they would resist cows and stray creatures of all sorts — Caragana spinosa, Berberis stenophylla, Dar- ' wini, dulcis, Colletia ferox, Olea ilicifolia, Picea cephalonica, Berberis asiatica (the pearl-like berries were lovely this autumn), Spanish Gorse. Some of the Crata3gus have not done well ; of course they were mostly grafted, and their heads are scarcely bigger than when I put them in years ago. Crataegus Oliveriana, mexicana, and punctata rubra have died, and C. Aronia, which Loudon says is good for tarts, will, I fear, make my mouth water for a long time to come, as it grows so slowly. " Among Hollies, Shepherdi appears to me a very fine variety, its broad leaves and well-clothed stems making a capital screen." M. A. Robb. Chrysanthemums. E. MOLTNEUX. MANAGEMENT OF YOUNG PLANTS. The cuttings fir.st inserted will now have formed sufficient roots to allow of their being trans- ferred to larger pots. This is easily determined by turning one or two out of the cutting pots and examining their roots, and if these have reached the sides of the pots and commenced to circle round the ball of soil, they are ready for their first shift. It is not wise, however, to allow them to become pot-bound, as this would cause a check to that free growth so desirable. A steady rate of progress is what is desired to guarantee ultimate success ; therefore commence to pot those earliest rooted and follow on with the remainder when ready. From the cutting pots in which they are now growing they should be shifted into pots 3^ inches wide. I prefer to give the sizes of the pots in inches, for the reason that the cast sizes vary so much in different potteries as to be misleading to many, as scarcely two are alike. Great care must be taken that the pots are quite clean. I recommend a small shift at this time in preference to a large one, as by placing them in small pots the whole mass of soil is thoroughly filled with roots, and the plants occupy less space. Carefully place the crocks in the bottom of the pots, over these putting some of the rougher parts of the com- post, which should be composed as follows : two parts flibry loam, one part leaf-soil, and one part of spent Mushroom bed materials, with a free use of sharp silver sand. If the loam is inclined to be heavy, add crushed charcoal, which will render the whole porous. In preparing the soil, I examine it carefully so as to remove small worms, which often do much damage. The soil when used for potting should be neither too wet nor too dry, which will be the case if the dift'erent parts are under cover. If the soil is in a proper condition, the plants must be potted fii-mly, and if it is moist, no water will be needed after potting for a day or two, after which the plants must not be neglected in this respect, but watered when required. After potting, return the plants to the shelf close to the glass. I prefer this position to a cold frame, for tlie reason that should sharp frosts prevail directly after the plants are placed therein, they will not root properly, as perhaps light is ex- cluded from them for several days at a time, owing to the bad weather. As soon as the roots reach the outside of the ball of new soil, the plants are ready for removal to a cold frame, as at this stage the plants will grow freely ; there- fore, they need air and all the light available. A cold frame with a southern aspect i.s suitable, and it should be so placed that when the lights are tilted to give air, winds from the north or east do not blow directly across the plants. To prevent the ingress of worms to the pots, make the drainage so that superfluous water may pa.ss quickly away from about the pots, and to raise the plants as near the glass as possible, nothing is so good as a thick coat- ing of ashes upon which to stand the pots. Place a neat stake to each to secure the plants in an upright form, as some have a tendency to hang down. Allow suflicient space, so that they do not touch each other; keep the frame rather close for a few days, gradually . admitting air on favourable occasions, always on that side opposite to which the wind, if there is any, is blowing from. On very fine days re- move the lights entirely, as by this means the plants are kept sturdy and dwarf, more so than they would be if allowed to become drawn up weakly, either by overcrowding or a want of air. Every night the frame should be covered over with double mats. Judging by ballot. — The frequenters of the National Chrysanthemum Society's November exhi- bition will be pleased to see the decision arrived at by that body at the annual meeting respecting the judg- ing of Chrysanthemums by ballot as tried at the last November exhibition in competition for the valuable prizes offered by Mr. H. Cannell. No doubt the idea was a novel one, and likely to attract attention, but such a method of deciding the qualities of Chrysanthemums does not com- mend itself, for the reason that it is much too slow. I know that upon the occasion in question I left the exhibition building at 5 30 p.m., and even then the result was not made known. Fancy an exhibi- tion of the size of the " National" being judged on the ballot principle ! New inventions which present no improvements upon old methods ought not to be put forward. The present method of judging by points appears to me to be the best method avail- able, as each bloom gets full value accorded, and mistakes seldom occur. — A. B. Sweet-scented Chryaantlieniums. — The best way of growing the sweet-scented Chrysanthemums so as to enhance their perfume as much as possible will, I believe, consist in judicious starvation. Of course, I know size of flower will be well-nigh im- possible under these circumstances, but If odour is to be the object, a free larder is not the way to get the most of it out of any given variety. The single and semi-double flowers like Mrs. Langtry and Dick Turpin seem to point towards these classes giving 88 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 4, 1888. more perfnme than Dr. Sharpe or Progne, but when starved a little both these last-named varieties also produce semi-double flowers, and I have often noticed that they are then more fragrant than when perfectly double. The larger proportion of the plants common in the desert of Arabia are highly odorous, and we know that starvation or drought is a factor in developing aroma in Melons and other tropical and sub-tropical fruits. If we are to offer prizes for fragrance or odour in the Chrysanthemum, let it be for fragrance and not for size or quality of the blooms. It would be easy to offer three prizes —one for single flowers, one for Pompon flowers, and one ior large blooms, scent or perfume in all cases to be the standard or test of excellence. I also believe that the colour of the Chrysanthemum, is enhanced by starvation and fuU exposure quite as much as is perfume, so that by offering prizes for perfume we shall be likely to kill two birds with one stone.— F. W. Burbidge. Chrysanthemum culture.— In Mr. Beckett's admirable paper on the cultivation of the Chrysan- themum in The Garden, January 7 (p. 8), he says, in speaking of the cuttings, "these at all times should be clean cut, and not rooted suckers." Will Mr. Beckett tell us n-hy rooted suckers should not be used, as I notice on p. 9 of the same issue " J. C. C." says that suckers make the earliest and best plants I If " J. C. C." would also inform us why, in the production of early plants, suckers are preferable to cuttings, he would assist in clearing up a matter upon which there appears to be a doubt. I should have thought that striking the cuttings four in a pot, as recommended by Mr. Beckett, was not so advantageous to the plants as inserting them singly, or even two in a pot, the check caused by dividing the plants when potting them off being liable to in j ure the future develop- ment of the plant. From the last week in March, when the Chrysanthemums receive their shift into 6-inch pots, to the first or second week in June seems rather a long time for the plants to remain in the small pots, as in that time the roots would have become so matted as to cause a check, and thus, in the case of the incurved varieties, at least, spoil the quality of the blooms. One other point in Mr. Beckett's paper, I note, does not coincide with the writings of other noted growers — that of " taking the buds," as he terms it. Mr. Beckett says, " I have always found from the last week in August to the second week in September the best time when the flowers are required about the middle of November." I note that other writers recommend a much earlier date for the selection of buds of some Japanese varieties. Does Mr. Beckett consider that the date he names is early enough for Boule d'Or and Meg Merrilies, for instance, two varieties which other writers say require earlier bud-selec- tion than the bulk of the sorts of this family ? — Inquirer. minimum subscription being 10s. From the names of the ofEoers who have been appointed, we have no doubt that this society wiU have a long and successful career. Chryeanthemtim cuttings.— Now is a good time to take the cuttings of Pompon, Anemone- Pompon, and single varieties. For " bush," or deco- rative plants, if space is at all limited, two cuttings may be inserted in one pot. These, when rooted, can easily be divided by breaking the ball of soil in the middle, and placing the plants singly in pots. In some cases the two plants as struck may be grown together throughout the season, the only difference required in their growth being that rather larger pots must be used than when the plants are grown singly and in smaller pots ; the number of branches must also not be so large. Select short the glass as possible, as the seed will not germi- nate so quickly as when placed in a warm shady position, but the seedlings will be much stronger and less liable to damp off. Of course, they re- quire a little extra attention, but in a house where a moist atmosphere is maintaioed, they will be safe enough. As soon as the seedlings are sufficiently developed they should bepricktd off, an operation which requires a little care ; every plant should be saved, for if only the strongest are saved there will sure to be a pre- ponderance of purples and dull reds, as these always take the lead. If a greater number of seedlings are obtained than can be grown on into good flowering plants, the surplus might have sufficient attention to get a bloom or two so that stocky cuttings, avoiding all such as are weak or : ^j^g j^ggt varieties may be selected, and these sickly, and insert them in the usual way as to soil - - - - - . . and position. Keep the handlights close until the cuttings begin to callus, when air should be ad- mitted freely. — E. M. Chrysanthemum Mrs. C. Carey sporting. — During some seasons a particular variety of Chry- santhemum seems to sport in a remarkable manner. The variety in question appears to have sported freely during the past season. From Guernsey I have received blooms of a pale yellow variety named Guernsey Hero, which, from the description given in The Gaeden, Jan. 21 (p. 66), seem identical with the flowers shown at the late Aquarium show by Mr. T.S.Ware and named Governor of Guernsey, but as I did not see those there shown, I am unable to say positively. The blooms submitted to me were excellent in every way, being medium in size, with long, narrow-pointed florets, the centre ones up- right, while the outer ones have a downward ten- dency. The colour — pale yellow — is particularly attractive. I am told that it has appeared in four collections during the late season. From Berkshire comes another sport with deep lilac flowers, and much larger than those of its parent, and the florets do not incurve as do those of the parent variety. In form and colour it somewhat resembles the old variety Sultan, but is fuller than that kind, the florets also showing a tendency to droop more than those of Sultan. As a late-flowering kind it is a grand acquisition. — E. M. SHORT NOTES.— CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Pompon Maid of Kent.— This is one of the best white varieties that I am acquainted with. The habit of growth is dwarf, while it blooms at a time when the bulk of the Pompon varieties are past their best. To secure the best results from this variety the plants should have their points pinched twice or thrice during the early season's growth, allowing all the shoots to produce flowers. 'The flower-buds ought not to he thinned. — S. Blue Chrysanthemums.— One of the London daily papers lately stated that "a wreath of blue Chrysanthemums " was sent from Paris to the tomb of Napoleon III. Were these dyed Chrysanthemums, or have onr friends across the Channel really got a bine Chrj'santhemum or an approach to it? Probably, however, it was some other flower, perhaps the blue Marguerite, as Agathtea caelestis, now in flower, is CiUed. Chrysanthemums in the west.- The cultiva- tion of this extrenifly popular class of plants has re- ceived quite an uncommon impetus in the west of Cornwall during tlju past few weeks. We learn that an exhibition lia.s been arranged to take place at Truro next autumn, but w« believe that no prizes will be awarded at this prospective exhibition. A Chrysanthe- mum Society has just been formed at Penzance, the Stove and Greenhouse. GLOXINIAS. Within the last few years the named varieties of this lovely class of plants have almost dis- appeared and seedlings have taken their place. Previously a good display could only be secured by purchasing named varieties, and this meant a considerable outlay, as the seedlings could not be depended upon on account of their tendency to revert to their normal character. However, by continued and careful selection the good va- rieties have now become more fixed in character, and at the present time seed may be obtained which will produce flowers as good as any of the will be useful for growing on for an early batch the following year. They may be gradually dried off as soon as they have flowered, and after the foliage is withered the corms should be kept in a dry place until they are started into growth again. The first batch should be started early, and others started later for succession. With a little management a regular succession may be kept up throughout the summer and autumn. By raising seedlings every year and selecting the best varieties, an excellent stock may be maintained. If any variety of special merit is obtained, the stock may be increased by the usual method of propagating from leaves. General treatment. — To grow Gloxinias successfully, they should, from the time they are started, be kept as close to the glass an possible, and only have sufficient shading to prevent the bright rays of the sun scorching the leaves. They like a moist atmosphere and rather a high temperature during the early stages of their growth, but as they come into bloom the temperature may be reduced, and if brought into flower in a cool bouse the flowers will be of greater substance and last much longer than when developed in a shady, moist place. Potting. — The corms should be started in small pots, and potted on as soon as they have started into active growth. They should bo in their flowering pots before they have made too much growth, otherwise it will be difficult to pot them without damaging the foliage. Various composts are recommended for Gloxinias. I like good fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and peat in equal parts, with a little well-rotted manure and a liberal addition of sand. The size of the pots will depend upon the plants, but one- year-old corms may be flowered well in 5-inch pots. I have had plants in this size which have produced over twenty good blooms, but when grown in small pots they require great care in watering and a liberal supply of liquid manure from the time they first show their flower-buds. If allowed to get too dry or otherwise receive a check a great portion of the flower-buds will insect pests, thrips are Moisture will go a great named sorts and give a great variety of colours. , _ . The seedlings also have the advantage of being , reniain dormant. Of of a more vigorous habit of growth than many their greatest enemy. of the named sorts, which have become weakened j way towards keeping thrips oft', but if they make by contiaued propagation from the same stock. | their appearance, regular fumigation is the only The present is a good time for sowing the seed. In preparing the pots for seed it should be re- membered that the plants must be pricked off as soon as they are large enough to handle ; there- fore, instead of filling the pots half full of crocks, it is better to use only a few crocks and then fill the pots about three parts full with loamy soil. This will prevent the light sandy soil, which is used for the surface, becoming dry so quickly, and, consequently, surface -watering will not be necessary (after the pots have had one good watering) until the seed has germi- nated. I like to place the seed pots as close to way to check them. Fumigating will not da- mage the flowers if it is done carefully and there is no moisture on them at the time. A. Peristeria elata. — G . TT'.— The very finest ex- amples, and those which flowered the most freely, were grown in a compost consisting of peat, leaf- mould, and loam in about equal parts. The pseudo- bulbs should be raised above the rim of the pot, but the plant should bo potted in the same manner as an ordinary stove plant, leaving ample room to supply water, of which it enjoys an abundance when growing, both to its roots and overhead. It also requires strong heat when growing. — W. H. G. Feb. 4, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 89 THE FLAMINGO PLANT. (anthurium scherzeeianum. ) The accouipanying illustration represents a fine example of this beautiful, showy, and dwarf species, grown by Mr. Lucas, Belmont, Taunton. Few plants have so long retained their popularity and improved in the size of ilowers more rapidly described as a singular little plant, remarkable amongst its congeners for its small size and the brilliant colour of its spadix and spathe. The spathe is described as '■ovate, about an inch long, and bright scarlet. " Now we have numerous forms of this species — some pure white, deep crimson, and curiously mottled. Of plant bearing spathes upwards of G inches long and 4 inches wide. The plant was first found in Guatemala by M. Scherzer, and afterwards in Costa Rica by Herr Inspector Wendland, of Hanover, who first brought it to Europe in a living state, and he .states that he never saw it producing large, showy spathes in a state of The Flamingo Plant (Anthurium Scherzeriannm) . Engraved for The Garden. under cultivation than this species. In 1861 I these last a coloured plate appeared in The nature, so that its increase in size and variation brought the first plant to England, a present from Garden, Nov. 13, 1886, and the chief va- Herr Inspector Wendland, of Herrenhausen, in rieties of this species are described in detail. Hanover, to the Royal Gardens at Kew. In the It.s increase in size is very remarkable, for following year it flowered, and was figured in although on its first flowering its spathes were the Botanical Magazine (t. 5319), where it is only 1 inch long, we now have forms of this iu colours would appear to be entirely the result of cultivation. W. H. G. Justlcia speciosa.— Among easily-grown plants that flower at midwinter this should find a place, 90 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 4, 1888. .for with bat little care and attention neat bushy specimens can be obtained that at the end of the year will be quite a mass of cheerful purple- coloured blossoms. Cuttings taken iu the spring and early summer root in a few days, when they may be potted oft and shitted into larger pots as required. During the height of summer they may be kept in a cold frame, the object being to en- courage as dwarf and sturdy a growth as possible. For this reason the young plants should have the points of their shoots pinched out frequently during their earlier stages. One great advantage of main- taining a stock of such easily-grown subjects as this is" that should the flowering specimens be used for indoor decoration and receive injury therefrom, it is not of much consequence. — H. P. Zephyranthes carinata. — I once saw this plant in Fenang, and shall never forget it as long as I live. On our voyage out to Singapore we stopped two days at Penang, and I had letters to Dr. Veitcb, then colonial surgeon of that island. I left my letters, and was invited to breakfast with our ship's doctor next day. We went out through Cocoa-nut Palms and orchards of Mango, &o., the roads fringed with hedges of Bamboo and covered with the white Thunbergia fragrans, with here and there a bush of Mussieada frondosa. Dr. Veitch's house stood back from the road in a meadow, and in the Grass, in irregular clumps, this soft, rosy Zephyr flower was very abundant. The flowers looked like champagne glasses made of rosy Venetian instead of white glass, and there were hundreds of them and of their buds set off by the surrounding verdure. Peter Wallace told me they were used to edge the garden walks in Ceylon. — F. W. Burbidgb. Khododendron Princess Alexandra. — This, one of the tube-flowered section of greenhouse Rho- dodendrons, is one of the most vigorous-growing, as well as the freest-flowering, of this beautiful class of plants. We have three small bushes that are scarcely ever without bloom, as every new growth is terminated by a flower-bud. On account of its vigorous growth, this Rhododendron is often em ployed as a stock on which to graft the more deli cate varieties of this section. One that succeeds far better when grafted than on its own roots is Duchess of Edinburgh, whose bright-coloured blossoms form so conspicuous a feature at this season : indeed, if asked to name the three most useful and distinct varieties of this section, I should give Princess Alexandra, blush-white; Duchess of Edinburgh, orange-crimson; and Princess Royal, pink. I gathered some pods of seed from one of our plants of Princess Alexandra, and of those that have already flowered the whole of them show no variation whatever from the plant from whence the seed was gathered. . Seedling plants often bloom when not more than a few inches high. The seed from which our plants were raised ripened in early spring, and was, therefore, sown at once, when it quickly germinated. — H. P. Cyrtanthera magniflca and C. Liboniana. — These two line Acanthacea3 are rarely to be met with now-a-days, and even in places where they are grown they seem to be rather neglected. S'ears ago they were oftener seen in cultivation, and I have heard old gardeners speak highly of them. The number, however, of gorgeous and newly- introduced plants has drawn them out of the lield. C. magnifica produces large, terminal crown-like corymbs of a delicate soft rosy pink colour, each floret being carved and inserted in greenish bracts. The leaves are ovate-acuminate, of a pale green, produced by a whitish pubescence, which is plenti- ful on the whole plant. C. Liboniana much resembles the former, and is as attractive, although its habit is a little more straggling. The flowers are of a much more decided hue, being ncarlv red and dispo-sed in the same way. The plant is gla- brous, the leaves larger, deep green, and tinged on the obverse side with a dull metallic purple, this colour being extended to the petioles, stems and bracts. Both C. magnilica and C. Liboniana are easily propagated from cuttings. When timely pinched, in order to induce a bushy growth, and kept in an intermediate house, the plants soon form free-flowering and attractive specimens. Some of them are always in flower, but especially in the autumn and the beginning of winter, when they are very useful for the conservatory and the house. When planted out in the winter garden they grow vigorously and reach a height of 5 feet or 6 feet ; the leaves of C. Liboniana measure then 10 inches or 12 inches in length by 5 inches or U inches in width. When loaded with blossoms in spring these shrubs present quite a sight, and form an effective undergrowth for large Ficuses and Palms. — J. Salliek, St. Germain eii-Laye. FLOWERS FOR MID-WINTER. The above subject suggests itself through a ques- tion asked by a correspondent in The Gabden, January 7 (p. 20), as to the supply of flowers to succeed Chrysanthemums. This is a want felt by a great many gardeners now that the demand for flowers at all seasons has so greatly increased. Chrysanthemums, by the wealth of flowers which they yield, their infinite variety of forms and hues, and the ease with which they are obtained, have in a measure spoiled our taste for the flowers which follow. A good supply of Chrysanthemums can be kept up until the end of December, after which the blooms will be small and poor in quality. The secret of obtaining a good supply of flowers at mid-winter is the thorough preparation of the plants during the preceding summer. Strong growth must be encouraged and the blooming powers, as it were, stored up for future use. Although there are many kinds of plants which may be grown to pro duce bloom during the winter, I shall only mention a few, which, provided the plants have been duly prepared, can be relied upon to yield a good supply at the time above mentioned. Marguerites are worthy of particular attention. Cuttings of them should be struck at once and grown on in pots until they can be planted out of doors atthe end of May or beginning of June. A place fully exposed to the sun where they may be planted 4 feet apart should be chosen. Do not stop the shoots after planting, but keep all the flower- buds picked off closely as they appear until the plants are lifted, potted, and taken under cover. This should be done about the end of September, when the plants will in some cases be 4 feet through. After lifting, place them in a cool house — an early vinery or Peach house will do. During December and January they will produce quantities of flowers which are always acceptable. We have a score of such plants at the present time, from which we could cut many flowers, notwithstanding the quantity previously gathered. The old double white Primula stands unrivalled as a winter flower. Although excellent single and double varieties can now be raised from seed, all must yield the palm to the old variety for quantity of bloom and purity of colour. Some find a difficulty in growing it satisfactorily. With us the treatment is simple and produces the best results. Any time during February I take the necessary number of plants reqaired for stock, clear them of flowers and old leaves, and fill the .space between the surface of the soil and the plant with Moss, into which the offsets root. In about a month the offsets may be severed from the old plants, potted into single pots, and placed under hand-lights in a warm house or in a propagating frame. They are sprinkled occa- sionally to prevent flagging, and there need be no fear of damping if the cuttings are kept fresh and erect. When the roots touch the sides of the pots, the plants are then removed to a more airy posi- tion and repotted. During the summer season a cool pit or frame is a suitable place in which to grow double Primulas. We finally shift them into il-inch pots, in which size they make fine plants. All the flower heads .should be pinched out as they appear until the plants are housed in September. When repotting, ample drainage should be provided. A layer of lime rubble placed over the drainage forms a good rooting medium and i.s a safeguard against over- watering, as anything approaching stagnation of the foil is fatal to Primulas. Tea Roses can be had at all times during the ' winter from well-prepared plants. Young ones, no doubt, give the largest blooms, but for quantity we obtain the best results from large bushes. During summer the plants should occupy a position fully exposed to the sun. The roots must be attended to, repotting or surfacing as required, and encourag- ing a good growth by frequent applications of liquid manure, not too strong. At the same time keep all the buds picked off. It is a great temptation to leave these buds to open. This is frequently done to the detriment of the plants, and consequent loss of blooming power in the winter. In October the plants must be taken under cover, and a batch placed in warmth as required. The most troublesome enemy to Roses under glass is mildew. A good preventive against this is frequent syringing with a weak solution of Gishurst or weak soft soap and water. The Cyclamen has become one of the best and most reliable of winter flowers. It is surprising the quantity of bloom which a batch of good plants will produce. I do not favour the gigantenm strain, but prefer those with compact clusters of leaves and numerous flowers which rise well above the foliage and remain erect without artificial support. When a strain of this description is obtained, a few plants of the best habit and blooming qualities should be .set apart for producing seed, and an excellent stock will in time be obtained. The seed should be sown as soon as ripe, and if not too thick the seedlings may be allowed to remain in the seed-pans during winter. About February pot the seedlings off into single pots and treat them to a moist, warm atmo- sphere, being careful that they do not become drawn. When large enough to be repotted into 5-inch pots, remove the plants to a pit with a cool bottom, shade them from bright sunshine at all times, and syringe them every afternoon. In this position they will grow into nice plants by the end of September. As good results may be obtained the second year by shaking out and repotting the corms if these are not subjected to the drjing-off process. For giving flowers of bright colour double zonal Pelargoniums are excellent. They require a light position in a warm house to bloom satisfac- torily, and if this is at command a good supply of bloom is readily obtained. The plants must be grown for the purpose during the preceding summer and autumn, and must not be allowed to flower until wanted. They are best not stopped after July, but allowed free growth, merely keeping the blooms picked off. Two good varieties are F. V. Raspail and Guillen Mangiili. Eufhoebia .jacqdini jeploea, if planted out in a stove, will well repay for the space devoted to it. When established it grows freely and blooms \ ro- fusely during the winter months. Brown scale is a most troublesome pest to this plant; therefore, before planting out in a peimanent position, be sure that this insect is not upon it, as it will be almost impossible to clear it off afterwards. I will conclude my select list of winter flowers with the Arum Lily. It is a noble flower, and one we cannot well have too many of. Some growers plant out the crowns during summer; others grow them all the season in pots, (iood plants may be grown either way if the operation of planting out or repotting is (lone early. After the plants have finished flowering, care should be taken to preserve the old foliage; also, when they are divided, this should be tied up until it turns yellow. The Arum delights in plenty of water at the roots, and liquid manure may be freely used to encourage the forma- tion of stout crowns, which will not require much forcing to cause the flower-scapes to develop. JlbidHj). A. Baekeh. Amaraboya splendida. — A short time ago I sent a note to The Garden giving a brief descrip- tion of two other lovely members of this most beautiful family of Melastomads, recently figured in the Belgian periodical, L'lUvstraliim. llort'icoh, on plates 4 and 9 respectively of the first volume of the fifth series of the work, under the names of A. princeps and A. amabilis. I mentioned at the same time a third variety, A. splendida, a portrait of Feb. 4, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 91 which is now given on plate Si of the same volume of the work. It is, indeed, a most beautiful and apparently easily-cultivated shrub, requiring only the temperature of a cool greenhouse. This third variety comes nearest to A. amabilis, of the two previously described, but has flowers at least twice as large, with a diameter of about G}, inches. The handsome flowers seem to be freely produced in bunches of from three to four at the extreme tips of the branches, and are of a deep shade of carmine at their outer edges, shading off to pale rose colour, and becoming nearly pure white towards the centre of the flower. The prominent style is also of a bright deep red, surrounded by yellowish stamens. The foliage of the plant is also extremely con- spicuous and handsome, of a bright shade of light green above and of a light shade of red underneath. This fine plant when distributed by Messrs. Linden, of Brussels, should be eagerly sought after by all lovers of flowering greenhouse shrubs. — W. E. GUMBLETON. The Wreath Lily (Myrsiphyllum asparagoides). — This beautiful evergreen climber is far too seldom seen. Puny specimens in pots are frequently met with, but these give a very poor idea of the beauty of the plant when planted out and well established in a suitable situation. A mistaken idea prevails that it 13 too tender for an ordinary conservatory and that it belongs more to the stove. A good posi- tion for it is planted against a wired wall in a tem- perate house. The border should be well drained and the soil sandy loam; very little attention is needed beyond an occasional watering, or having a few of the strongest shoots tied ; the weaker ones will cling to these. The beautiful glossy foliage as- sumes almost every shade of green. The plant makes fresh growth annually in July or August, and the old shoots should be cut away or taken down before the new ones get too far advanced. As it grows rapidly, the trellis is soon covered again. If used freely with cut flowers, it brightens otherwise formal or heavy arrangements. The roots at the base of the stems resemble a cluster of miniature Dahlia tubers with the tips curving downwards after the manner of Ranunculus roots. These tubers are quite white and fleshy at first, though when exposed to the air they soon turn brown and gradually lose all their moisture. From under these spring black fibrous roots which fill the surrounding soil. A plant in the north-east corner of a tall span- roofed conservatory here covers a space of 14 feet by 5 feet. The partly shaded position suits it well. It is now showing hundreds of its tiny flower-buds, which will presently open and give an agreeable perfume. They are greenish white and something like the flowers of the common Asparagus. Alto- gether this is a most desirable plant, and as interest- ing as it is useful. — John C. Tallack, Lirerniere Parlt, Burij St. Ednuinds. Freesias in flower. — Within the last few years these beautiful bulbous flowers have become com- paratively popular, and it is probable they will be still more extensively grown than they are at the present time. The Freesias have been largely cultivated in Guernsey for some years, but the English market is now extensively supplied with bulbs imported direct from the Cape of Good Hope. These bulbs generally reach this country early in the autumn, when they may be at once potted (or at all events those that are required for the earliest batch), as, in order to maintain a succession, it will be better to divide them into two or three portions and allow a fortnight or thereabouts to elapse between potting the different batches. A good open soil, consisting of about two-thirds loam to one of well-decayed leaf mould, with a little sand, will suit them per- fectly. If six or seven good bulbs are potted in a 5-inch or -IJ-inch pot, they form, when in bloom, neat little specimens. A greenhouse temperature and a situation well exposed to the light will suit them thoroughly, and as the flower-stems appear a few can be shifted into a warmer structure, in order to have them in bloom earlier than the bulk. If care is exercised a succession will be maintained for a considerable period, and just now the beauti- ful clear white fragrant blossoms attract greater attention than Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissi, or other well-known subjects. In potting the bulbs it is as well to keep those of one size together, as by this means they flower in a more regular manner than if large and small ones are put into one pot. As they do not need much root room, good sized masses may be formed, if required, by filling large pans with them. The bulbs in this case should be about an inch apart. Freesias can be readily raised from seed, as the young plants quickly make their appearance, and, unlike many other bulbous plants, do not take a long time to reach a flowering size. I had a quantity of seed and sowed it in early spring in some light sandy soil, and pro- tected it by a frame. The young plants soon appeared above ground, and grew away throughout the summer, When they lost their i foliage the bulbs were allowed to remain in the same quarters. Care was taken during the winter to protect them from frost, and in spring, before starting into growth, a slight top-dressing was given. Many of the plants bloomed beautifully in little more than a year from the seed. — T. WORK IN PLANT HOUSES. BouGAiNViLLEA GLABRA. — This is the most free- flowering of the Bougainvilleas. It will do well in an intermediate temperature, especially when planted out. It is most useful when grown in pots, as then the plants can be moved to a cooler place when in bloom. There are different ways of treating it. When the plants are started early, say at the beginning of the present month, and they are pushed on in a warm stove, they will produce two full crops of flowers before autumn. Examples that have been at rest since autumn, and have the soil quite dry, should have the balls well soaked by plunging the pots for several hours in a tub of tepid water. If the specimens have much weak wood in them it may be cut out, as this species only blooms from the young growth, and it is only the strong shoots that flower freely. Plants that are in large pots should be turned out, and have some of the old soil shaken away, replacing it with new. Train the branches round the trellises that are in- tended to support them, keeping them well down over the lower part. The plants will bear a night temperature of H0° to 6.j° at the time of starting. Sjringe overhead once a day, and from the time the young shoots appear until the flowers are three parts grown, the former should be kept in an erect position ; if not, they will break back in place of extending and setting bloom. As soon as the plants have got fairly into growth, the roots will require plenty of water, and care should be taken that the soil does not get too dry, otherwise many of the shoots will receive a check that will cause them to set a few flowers prematurely in place of producing a full crop. No shade is required at any time of the year. When some progress has been made give manure water freely once or twice a week. BOUOAINVJLLEA SPECIOSA AND E. SPECTABILIS. — These strong-growing species do best planted out in an intermediate house, where they can have plenty of head-room. They will also succeed in a higher temperature, provided the atmosphere is not kept too moist during the summer and autumn, so as to interfere with the wood getting well matured. Without this they will not bloom. These kinds should not be pruned until after they have flowered, as, unlike B. glabra, they bloom from last year's shoots, only making a few inches of growth before the flowers appear. See that the soil of the border is thoroughly soaked, and to make sure of this it should be examined, as, after being kept entirely without water at the roots, as these kinds require to be during the season of rest, it takes more water to moisten the soil than is often supposed. About 2 inches of the old soil should be removed from the surface of the border, replacing it with new, to which a liberal addition of rotten manure has been made. CleeodendeonBalfouri. — There are few plants so accommodating as this Clerodendron, as it will bear starting early in winter, or may be kept at rest if not required until later on ; consequently with a suflicient stock a succession of flowers can be had for several months. It usually takes from eight to ten weeks to get the plants into flower from the time they are started in a moderately warm house. With more heat they will come in less time, but the flowers are not so enduring when the growth is hurried. Soak the soil well before starting the plants, as without this they will not break evenly. When once the shoots have pushed irregularly nothing will induce the eyes that have remained dormant to move. Young plants that are to be grown to a larger size may be repotted into larger pots before they commence to make growth. Old specimens that are already in pots as large as it is advisable to give them should not be repotted until after they have flowered, when they ought to have their branches shortened back to within a few inches of where they were cut in to last year. After they have again started they should be turned out and have half the old soil shaken away and a portion of the roots reduced, replacing them in similar sized pots in good turfy loam well enriched with rotten manure. Shrubbt Cleeodendbon.s.— Old plants of C. fallax, C. Ksempferi, and C. fragrans, that were cut close in last autumn after they had done blooming, will by this time have made young shoots several inches long. They should now be turned out and have half the old material shaken away, shortening any long, straggling roots. Put them in pots of a similar size to those they have been in. Use soil of a like description to that recommended for C. Balfouri. Ceoweas. — Although these are greenhouse plants, yet to have them in bloom at the time when the flowers are most useful, viz., from September up to near the end of the year, it is necessary to start them in heat about this time. Shorten back last season's shoots to within about fi inches of where they were cut in last winter. The plants will bear a stove heat, but an intermediate tempera- ture will answer for Ihem. Stand them where they will get plenty of light, as without this the young growth will be weak and deficient in substance. Syringe overhead once a day, and keep the soil a little drier than usual until the growth has begun to move freely. When the young shoots are an inch long any plants that require larger pots should be shitted. Though Croweas root freely they do not attain a large size ; consequently they do not need very much root room. Small examples will flower well in 6-inch pots; for large specimens 12-inch will be big enough. They will thrive in either peat or loam. I prefer the former where it can be had of good quality. Add enough sand to keep the soil open and porous, as the plants should not be shaken out at any time. Azaleas. — It often happens that Azaleas after being forced early are allowed to remain in a cool conservatory or other house where there is not enough warmth to help the young growth that has already begun to move. The result of keeping them too cold at this time is that the shoots come thin and puny, neither attaining the strength that is necessary to enable them to produce a full crop of bloom, nor length enough to admit of the requisite amount of wood being cut with the flowers. As soon as the bloom is over the plants should at once be placed where they will have a genial growing temperature of something like 55° in the night, with a proportionate rise in the day. Syringe over- head freely once a day. Stimulants should be given without delay. Previous to putting the plants in heat they should be examined to see if tLey are free from thrips. If these are discovered, even in small numbers, the plants should be dipped in, or syringed with. Tobacco-water, or fumigated with Tobacco. It is better not to pot any that require more room until the growth has made some progress, as the roots of Azaleas do not begin to move until the shoots have attained some length. More plants should now be put in warmth to keep up a succes- sion of flowers. Where a portion of the stock is required to bloom as late as possible, tte plants should be kept cool without allowing them to be frozen, and as soon as the weather becomes more sunny they should be shaded. Epacrises. — As the plants go out of bloom they should be immediately cut in. If this work is de- 92 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 4, 1888. layed, the yonng growth that starts directly the flowering is over has to be sacrificed, and in this way there is waste of strength. All last year's shoots should be shortened back to within from 4 inches to 6 inches of where they spring from. Previous to catting in allow the soil to get as dry as it is sate to do so, and give the plants compara- tively little water until some growth has been made. Ebicas. — Plants that flowered during the autumn or early part of winter should be cut in at once. It is necessary to cut back the shoots of these soft- wooded, free-growing varieties much closer than in the case of the slower -growing sorts, and there should be no delay in carrying out the operation. As soon as the plants have done blooming they will begin to make new growth, the formation of which will be a waste of strength if the cutting-in is, as often practised, deferred until later on. The autumn and winter-flowering Heaths that have been grown by those who cultivate them for sale need careful handling to get them to do well after they have bloomed, as in most cases the plants have been over-stimulated by the use of concentrated manures, through which many die off. As soon as the flowers fade the soil should be kept drier previous to cut- ting in. One-half or two-thirds of last summer's growth may be cut away; this will not be too much, as when the branches of these erect-growing varieties are left long the plants soon get too tall. Continue to keep the roots a little drier until some growth has been made, when water may be given more freely. Later on the plants will require mov- ing into larger pots. T. B. Flower Garden. THE CHRISTMAS ROSE. (hellebokus nioer ) How many gardens are tliere, I wonder, that are without even one good tuft of this charming hardy winter flower? Yet when one reads fiaming descriptions of wondrous novelties in nursery catalogues, it would be difScult to say more than can be said in praise of the Christmas Rose. A white winter Buttercup, witli large pure white, salver-shaped blooius on stout stems ; stamens abundant, and tipped with yellow or gold ; pistils ivory-white, pink, or even purple; leaves handsome, evergreen, and spreading — above all, flowering freely at midwinter out of doors, and thriving in all soils save the very driest and poorest. Surely such an advertisement for a new flower would cause a great demand for the treasure. Had it not been for the taste and enthusiasm (){ the late Miss F. H(jpe, who first drew atten- tion to hardy winter flowers, and latterly to the exertions of nurserymen who have searched out and collected the various good forms of this Hellebore, many of us would still be in ignorance of the beauty of thi.s (lower. One especial reason for the neglect this plant fell into was the preva- lence of inferior varieties in old gardens, which year by year productd but .stunted and inferior flowers, and caused a general belief that the Christmas Rose wa.s either an inferior flower, or that it was so difficult to grow, it was not worth wliile bothering about. In Yorkshire, at any rate, tliis has Ijcen the case, and it is only in gardens where the Bath or Scotch va- rieties have been obtained through friends in past years that I liave ever .seen a specimen of what the Christmas Rose should bo. To those who declare they cannot grow Chri3tma.s Rohuh I would say, Are you not growing an inferior variety that never can pro- duce good flowers; In most cases I ani con- vinced that this is tlie reason of their want of Bucuoss, and consequently detail my own ex- 1 perienoe, which has ended in success, after attempting vainly to make "a silk purse out of a sow's ear." The fortunate possessors of a good collection of Christmas Roses are enjoying a feast of beauty this winter that must surely encourage others to plant yet more of this gem that braves the winter darkness and brightens the smokiest town garden. It is remarked on all sides how abundantly these flowers have been produced this winter, and I think there can be little doubt that the heat of the past summer is a chief cause. When we remember how abundantly this Hellebore grows on the wooded shores of the Italian lakes where the Grapes hang in purple clusters on the hillsides, it is evident that it cannot dislike heat, and yet in our far colder climate it is often said you should grow the Christmas Rose in shade. I suspect this i^ that fatal thing, a half truth — that is to say, it is quite true that if you plant a Christmas Rose in a hot, dry border, and never water or look after it in any way, it will dwindle and die to a certainty ; while, on the other hand, if planted in shade, it will grow and flower more or less freely. Yet if you plant it in a sunny and sheltered border, and mulch and water it freely in summer, that plant will soon outgrow and out-flower the plant in the shade treated in the same way. What does injure the Christmas Rose is drought, and if the leaves perish through drought the flowers will be stunted and undersized, and if repeated several seasons, the plant will die or linger on in a ttowerless state. Another com- mon cause of injury is damage by slugs eating the young leaves in spring, or the rising flower- buds in autumn. This at any rate can easily be prevented by a few handtuls of sand, horsehair clippings, or sawdust round the collar of each plant when necessary ; and the only other cause of injury I have noticed is damage to the large leaves by winds. So low-growing a plant can easily be sheltered, even in the windiest situa- tions, but a naturally sheltered position is always the best. No plant is more indifferent to soil, for it will thrive not only in stifl' clay and in barren sand, if only it be well looked after as to water- ing, but equally well in limestone soils and peat ; while a deep sandy loam that is never sodden with wet or parched with drought will produce the very finest growth and flowers. Next to injury caused by drought, that caused by transplanting must be mentioned, so that impatient gardeners should be reminded that they cannot expect perfect beauty of flower until after two years of undisturbed growth. Once established, let well alone, and year by year an increasing harvest of beauty will re- ward the cultivator. A striking proof of the oblivion into which the Christmas Riose had fallen is exemplified by the complaint that it seldom or never flowered in time for Christmas ; while as a matter of fact the largest, and perhajis flnest, variety of all, that called raaximua, begins to flower early in November, and is generally past its best by Christmas-tide. This variety is well marked by its very large leaves and mottled stems, with pink-tinted flower-buds on long, sturdy red- brown stalks, that overtop the highest leaves bef* Put on your studying cap, and let us have your selection. — En. The Jargonells Pear in Scotland.— It is much to be desired that a race of Pears as good as this for some northern climates could he originated. It is tbo Pear of Pears for Scotland, and does well fifty miles north of Aberdeen, as well as in many otlier parts of the country. Some of the trees appear to be a century old or more. — "J. O.," in The Garden, UctoheriS, 1876. Pears in Covent Garden. — In answer to an in- quiry which we made as to whether there were any good English Pears in the market, we have received the following answer from Mr. Solomon : " There are no good English Pears in the market. The only good Pears we have now are the Californian, which run rather high in price I " FRUITS UNDER GLASS. Plums. Although the weather has been dark, it has not been severe ; consequently the temperature necessary to the forcing of Plums has been maintained with the aid of very little fire-heat, especially where warmth and moisture from fermenting leaves have been secured in the usual way. A temperature of 45° at night and 55° by day, with a slight circula- tion of air, is quite high enough until the trees come into flower, when a gradual increase to 55° and (lO", still with air, will produce a buoyant atmosphere favourable to the setting of the fruit. A damp, stagnant condition of the air of the house, which renders the petals and pollen moist and pasty, is more detrimental than cold, as I have often found the temperature nearly down to freezing on sharp mornings, and yet, the atmosphere being dry, the fruit has set quite freely. I do not, as a matter of course, advocate this close sailing, but of two evils I would choose a low, dry condition of the house with air, in preference to the maximum I have given without it. Young men of the present day think more of the temperature than they do of the condition of the atmosphere and look upon fresh air more as an enemy than a friend, hence my reason for directing special attention to the importance of forcing, not only Plums, but all stone fruits with a plentiful supply of air. The loss of a week or two is of little consequence, but the loss of a crop is a serious matter, and I know for a fact that many crops of puny and imperfect flowers are brought forward in this way. If the sun breaks through the gloom before the flowers open, the gentle circulation need not be shut off the pipes, but a little more invigorating front air may be given through the early part of the day, and the trees may be well syringed with tepid water when it is shut ofE for a few hours, about two o'clock in the after- noon. Worked on in this way the bloom will be as bold and fine as that produced by trees in the open air, pollen will be abundant, and daily fertilisation with the camel's-hair brush will secure an abun- dance of fruit. Before this stage is reached the fumigator, I again repeat, must be introduced to render certain the destruction of eveiy green fly by the time the first flower opens. If none are in sight, so much the better, but, absent or present, the operation must not be neglected. Trees in pots, especially those in suitable condition for forcing, will take liberal supplies of tepid water, not in driblets, to keep want away, as the crook roots under this system suffer, but in quantity suflicient to penetrate the wh^le mass of compost now full of active rootlets. In some cases it may be necessary to give water during the time the Plums are in flower, but trees growing in borders, like Peaches, should be liberally supplied in advance of this stage, when they will carry over the setting period. Late trees, it may be assumed, are now indoors and safe from the ravages of bud-destroying birds. If they are not, they must be netted, as bullfinches are already busy amongst Plums, Cherries, and Pears. Nothing, however, will be gained by leaving them out longer, and as these bold marauders ruin a tree in a few hours, the wisest and safest course will be housing and netting the doorways and ven- tilators, which can then be left open in all weathers. Large old trees in perforated pots may be plunged at once to the rims in the borders, mulched, and well watered; others not intended for ] dunging will require water at shorter intervals, but this labour and risk of drought can be greatly reduced by filling in amongst them with a light packing of Fern or stable litter. 100 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 4, 1888. Chbhkies started with the Plums will now be in advance of them, but the same attention to each detail.from watering and syringing to airing and fertilising, must be observed. Cherries perhaps more than Plums suffer from a damp atmosphere when in flower, also when the fruit is ripe; hence my reason for advising keeping them separated by a division of glass, although the heating of the two compart- ments may not be distinct. "This arrangement, as a matter of course, is to be preferred, and as all hot-water work has been greatly simplified, and in the majority of places taken up by a man upon the premises, the introduction of a system that_ will make each house independent of the next adjoining is worthy of consideration. We now put together all our pipes with vulcanised rings and screw joints, and, independently of the time saved in fixing or taking down by a handy man, we find joints made years ago still remain sound. The treatment of these two fruits being so similar, it is hardly neces- sary to repeat my remarks upon Plums, but one word of advice I must give : never hurry the trees through the night or on dark, dull days, but give them rest and give them time, and they will pay with interest in the long run. Never confine the fertilising brush to each variety, but cross backwards and forwards from the May Duke to Circassian, and rice versa. Never introduce the brush until the trees are in full flower and the pollen is ripe and in fit condition for the immediate performance of its ofiice. When the Cherries are set syringe carefully on fine mornings to free the fruit from the decaying petals of the flowers; run up a few degrees in the afternoon with sun heat, but give air again at night, and keep a sharp eye on the fruit, otherwise it will fall a prey to the weevil. Peaches. A little rain having dispersed the black fog which overhung this part of the country for nearly three weeks, we now ha\-e bright and seasonable weather, no doubt highly acceptable to the forcer of early fruits, but by no means assuring to those whose principal crops are obtained from trees grow- ing in the open air. Early Peaches have had a bad time for setting, and never perhaps has the old adage, "More haste, less speed," been put more severely to the test than it has been since early houses were closed for forcing. Patience and plenty of fresh air are the main factors in this department, and where these in a proper manner have been brought to bear the trees will have performed their part in a satisfactory manner, although possibly they may be a week or two later than usual. This is a small matter compared with a good set of fruit, as the time will come, but not just yet, when lost time can be redeemed without distressing the trees, and the fruit at the finish will be fine in proportion to the way in which their energies have been hus- banded. If any of the latest trees are still in flower, the camel's-hair brush should be passed over them when the temperature of the house has reached the maximum about noon every day, and when the fruit is safe, syringing may be resumed. Some never dis- continuesyringing,but dewthe flowers overevery fine day, but fine days so far having been few, the trees must have had matters pretty well their own way, and, provided the roots are right, they may be just as fruitful as their owners can wish. As the young growths and fruits respond to the tepid bath and the influence of sun - heat, disbudding, shorten- ing back, and thinning must be carried on conjointly, and, the better to avoid a check, these operations should be performed piecemeal— here a little and there a little from day to day. If the foreright and strongest growths near the extremities, especially the upper parts of the trees, are taken first, those nearest the base will gain in strength, and when this even balance has been secured the whole body of each tree may be reduced to the proper number of shoots for tying in. 'J'he first thing to be considered is an even spread of shoots for producing fruit next year, and aa these cannot be secured too near home, the best near the base and another at the point for ex- tension must not be interfered with ; then, provided the modem method 9f thinning ovit instead of short- ening back at the winter pruning has been adopted, it will be necessary to retain others at intervals of a foot or so for the present. Those intervening with fruit clustering at the base we do not remove bodily at once, but pinch them back to two or three leaves which act as feeders, and take them away by degrees as the thinning of the fruit is proceeded with and the base shoots require room for extension. By adopting this plan, every part of the tree is kept full of foliage, and, it is needless to say, the short spurs so formed are a great help to the fruit when swelling and stoning. Next as to thinning the fruit, we always reduce triples to one, and after taking off the weakest, especially those which are pendent, we leave enough and to spare with points upwards for the crop. The house having been regularly fumigated before the blossoms opened, it is hardly likely that fly will have put in an appearance ; still a sharp eye must be kept on young growths near the hot-water pipes, as these pests multiply rapidly. Light smoking at first, when the foliage is dry, is advisable, as I have seen fine sets of fruit seriously injured by a heavy volume, when a few puffs with Bloxham's excellent f umigator would have cleared the parts infested. As days increase in length and the sun gains power, the syringe must be freely plied backwards and forwards, but not too late in the afternoon, and the closing temperature may be slightly increased whenever this can be secured without having recourse to extra firing. By this means, 70° to 75° for a short time will help the trees, always provided air is admitted along the front, and 50° to 5G° is not exceeded through the hours of darkness. Water having been withheld through the flowering stage, internal borders, as soon as the fruit is safe, must be looked to. To weak trees that have been heavily cropped and again look promising, the first light mulch may be given, to be well washed in with weak clarified liquid, whilst younger and stronger trees will make most satisfactory progress not only without the manure, but with plain tepid water. Peaches re- quire an abundance of water, especially when they are in free growth, but unless they are decidedly weak, it is always best to err on the safe side in the early use of stimulants. Siiceession houses, started since the turn of the year, will now come on freely, and, provided they are well watered and syringed and liberally aired, the setting of the fruit wiU cause little anxiety. For all this, it will be well to fertilise, as we may yet have a long spell of wintry weather, and rain, I hope, in abundance. The roots being inside, ad- vantage should be taken of this long-wished-for change whenever the cisterns are full, otherwise the barrel must be employed to secure a thoroughly moistened condition of the borders during the period of fertilisation. If any of the trees are swelling up a superabundance of flower-buds, they may be relieved by the removal of a goodly number by drawing the finger closely down the under sides of all the shoots, when those left will open stronger and set better than if all were left, whilst the fruit on the upper sides will be in the proper position for swelling to maturity. Lafe houses. — All pruning, dressing, and training should now be brought to a close, when internal borders will require pointing up with a fork as a preliminary to top-dressing and watering. Although we have had so little sun, the buds inside and out are swelling at a rate that is alarming, but by no means surprising when we take into account the dry and warm condition of the ground. This being the case, the hose should be freely used prior to mulching, whilst external borders may safely be watered be- fore and after they are mulched to make up for the deficiency in the rainfall. In order to keep the trees in check, all plants that require the slightest protection should be removed from the latest Peach house, when the lights, ventilators, and doors can be left open by day and night until the flowers begin to open. The only danger attending this course is sudden attacks upon the buds in dry seasons by small birds. They do not often interfere with Peaches, but when driven by hunger they will spoil a tree in a few hours. To prevent them from getting in, fine-meshed Strawberry pet-p thrown loosely over the openings answer admirably, as they do not impede light or interfere with the circulation of air. Figs. Pot trees grown upon the compact bush principle will now be fit for pinching, and the fruit most likely will require some thinning. Pinching, like all other checks upon the flow of sap, should be performed piecemeal, little and often as the strongest growths show signs of taking the lead to the detriment of the lowest and weakest parts of the trees. Sun and air being essential to the growth of good fruit, some of the shoots may require tying down, with here and there a stick to keep the heads open and in form ; whilst others can be trained in the way they should go by the daily pressure of the hand. All useless spray, as a matter of course, should be pinched at the first leaf or removed entirely, and suckers must be suppressed the moment they are detected. Top-dressing rich and warm, also diluted liquid, will now benefit all trees carrying full crops of fruit, and the syringe must be vigorously plied on fine mornings, and again when the house is closed about 2 p m. On dark, dull days the foliage may remain dry, but the stems, walls, and all dry corners must not be neglected, neither must the constant turning and renovation of the fer- menting leaves introduced for giving bottom heat and moisture be omitted. Young trees in- tended for next year's forcing should now be pushed on upon a bed of warm leaves, and when they have started freely into growth they may be shifted from the pots in which they have wintered into others two sizes larger. The compost, consisting of light, rich turfy loam, old lime rubble, and bone-dust, should be warm and dry enough to bear ramming without becoming adhesive when used, the pots and crocks clean and dry, and the plunging bed in suitable condition before the young trees or plants are disturbed. Having thoroughly moistened the balls, each plant should be divested of old crooks, sour and inert soil, and straggling roots, firmly potted and plunged at once where it is to make its growth. A moderate supply of water will then be necessary, and the plants as well as the walls must be regularly moistened with the syringe whenever the weather is favourable. Alight, compact bottom- heat pit suitable for young vines is the best struc- ture for pot Figs, which cannot be kept too near the glass, provided the leaves do not touch it, and, sunlight being so necessary to a short, stubby growth, ample room should be allowed for their full development. Cutthiffs put in a few weeks ago may now be plunged in bottom heat, the closer to the glass the better. The bed being moist they will require very little, if any, water until young roots and leaves are formed, but, like Vine eyes, they must be lightly dewed over every day with the syringe to main- tain a growing condition of the atmosphere. When they have filled the small pots with roots and the growing points have made a few leaves, they must be pinched to induce side breaks before they are shifted into others a size or two larger. Esiahlishcd trees growing in borders of limited area must never feel the want of warm water. If started in December and fermenting leaves have been freely and judiciously used, the roots will be active and ready to receive the first top-dressing of fresh rough turf as the staple, with lime rubble and perhaps a little rotten manure according to the crops they are carrying. Being so subject to spider, the trees should be well syringed every morning when there is fair promise of a fine day, and again when the house can be closed with sun heat. If dull, and there is danger of the foliage remaining wet through the early part of the night, the second bath must be substituted by a thorough damping of the stems and walls and the turning of a por- tion of the fermenting material. A night tempera- ture of Ii0° will now be safe with a little front air, and it may rise with the day until 70" is touched, when top air must be given. Increase this as the temperature rises, and shut up before there is any appreciable diminution. W. C. Feb. 4, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 101 MARKET GARDEN NOTES. The weather being favourable for outdoor wort, market growers are preparing for the coming season with all speed by clearing oS the remnant of green crops. Looking at the green crops now, one would hardly believe that so much growth could have been made since the end of August, when there seemed to be a great scarcity of green vegetables. Owing, however, to more genial weather, our mar- kets have been well supplied with all kinds of green vegetables for the past three months. First on the list of market gardeners' specialities that are grown in vast quantities and sent to market by wagon- loads is The Autumn Giant Cauliflower. — I can tsstify, from observation during the growing season and the splendid quality of the great loads passing by road, that Cauliflowers could not be grown better for exhibition than they are for ordinary market sale by our local market growers. The seed is sown thinly, and the plants as soon as they are large enough are put out on clean, well-enriched soil and allowed plenty of room. In dry seasons like the past these Cauliflower plants get plenty of sewage, or liquid manure from the farmyard, and the soil being kept frequently stirred, thick-stemmed plants that yield very large heads of flower are produced. After Christmas the supply is kept up by Veitch's Self-protecting Winter Broccoli. which is quite as valuable a vegetable for mid- winter as the Giant is for autumn supply. This variety has taken several years to get thoroughly established as a market grower's favourite, for half a dozen years ago one only met with it in large private gardens, but now it is grown by the acre. It is treated exactly like the Giant, but is far hardier. The mass of leaves that fold down tightly over the crown keeps it safe from a tolerably severe frost ; in fact, there has not been a single break in the supply this winter, although the frost has been severe enough to admit of skating close by the fields where this Broccoli is growing. If there is any danger of the frost injuring the heads, they are cut, even if the leaves are hard frozen, and packed to- gether in a cold shed and allowed to thaw gently, and in a day or two they will be just as good as if no frost had touched them. By looking them over frequently and cutting all that show any signs of opening, a supply is kept up until the early spring Broccoli comes in. This variety has superseded Snow's and other winter white Broccoli, and has been realising high prices during the few past seasons when it was little grown, but now that it is so largely cultivated the price has gone down considerably. Cabbages are being planted in great quantity, as those that were planted early in the autumn have made such rapid progress that they will soon be fit for use. The season having been very favourable, hardly any gaps are visible in the rows. AuTDMN'-sowN OsiONS are being cleaned by hand-palling the weeds and then hoeing, for Groundsel has grown so luxuriantly in the rich soil that it is now nearly a foot high and in full bloom, and threatens to smother the crops if left any longer. Lettuces of the Brown Cos and hardy Cabbage kinds are being planted out from seed beds on the best and most sheltered spots that are available; plenty of manure is used for this crop, as the soil can hardly be too rich for growing salads; while at no period of the year do they sell better than during the spring and early summer months. ^ Radishes of the Long Scarlet and French white- tipped kinds are being sown in quantity in beds 4 feet wide. These beds during the night are covered with litter, which is taken off whenever the weather is mild. Pruning of all kinds of fruit trees and bushes is being pushed forward, and manuring the land around the roots is attracting more attention than hitherto, the conviction that only good culture will pay having become an established principle with market cultivators. J. G. Gosport. Value of pond leaf-soil.— In answer to "A.K., Bentley Priory," in The Gauden, Jan. 7 (p. 22), who inquires "what manurial qualities are contained in leaf matter taken from a p^nd," I wiU not attempt to define its real value, but can with confidence recom- mend it as a top-dressing for lawus impoverished by constant mowing and sweeping, and for Moss-grown pastures. If applied now to the depth of at least 1 inch, and a few Grass seeds sown and raked in two months hence, the result will soon be apparent, and will not fail to be satisfactory. — J. Bell, Strathfield- saye. Ferns. W. H. GOWBE. LASTREA SANCTA. This charming Fern originated some few years back in the nurseries of tlie Messrs. Jackson at Kingston, in Surrey, having been raised from fpores received from Jamaica without a name. Listrea saneta. Engraved for The Garden. Plants of it were sent to the Kew collection, and the authorities there pronounced it new to culti- vation, but known as Phegopteris sancta of Fee. After having been in cultivation for some time, however, the sori were found to be furnished with an indusium, so that it was transferred to the genus Lastrea in the Oreopteris group. This Fern has never been plentiful, but it is elegant, and well deserves a place in every collection. It may be grown as a pot specimen or planted out in a Wardian case. The habit is tufted, and the fronds are arranged in a rosulate manner. They vary from 3 inches to 0 inches in length, are lanceolate in outline, and somewhat thin in texture. They are bipinnate, the segments being flnely-dividtd and rich deep green in colour, the undersides when fertile being thickly studded with small black sori. If grown as a pot specimen it should be confined to a some- what small-sized pot, as its roots do not appear to like a great quantity of soil about them. It grows freely in a mixture of peat, leaf-mould, loam, and sand. A good supply of water to the roots is beneficial, but sprinklings over the fronds with water from the syringe are apt to turn the fronds black, and by no means enhance their beauty. A somewhat close and moist atmo- sphere is necessary for the health of the plants and the full development of the delicate fronds. BOLD-GROWING DIPLAZIUMS. This is a much-neglected section of the Asplenium family, and yet it contains some exceedingly hand- some plants. It is true that Diplaziums do not pos- sess that elegance of outline for which some of the Aspleniums are remarkable, especially some of the Dareoid section. They, however, have a bold and distinctive character, which not only affords a pleasing contrast when grouped with more delicate kinds, but materially assists in the general efltec- tiveness of a collection of plants. Diplaziums are distinguished from Aspleniums by having the sori and involucres situated upon each side of a free vein, each opening back to back. This distinction is found not to be so constant as could be wished ; and Mettenius, a German professor, wished to refer them back to Asplenium, but that genus is already so large, that it would doubtless have caused considerable confusion and annoyance. Although the genus is a large one, there are a good many species that I should not recommend a Fern grower to trouble about, unless he happens to possess unli- mited room, but the few kinds here enumerated are well worthy the attention of all. They are plants of easy culture, and all of them, unless specially noted, are subjects for a warm or stove fernery. D. PLANTAUINEUM is a simple-fronded species, of striking interest on account of the intensity of its colour. The fronds are from 1 foot to IS inches high and 1 inch to 2 inches wide. Native of Mexico a-:d Brazil; it also appears to be a common plant in Jamaica. D. GRANDIPOLIUM.— A handsome pinnate species, with fronds between 2 feet and 3 feet high, with from twelve to eighteen pairs of large, distant, and broad deep green pinna3. It is one of the hand- somest of this section. Brazil and West Indies. D. integrifolium.— This is also a pinnate- leaved Fern, with the pinna; broader and bolder than those of the previously-named kind. The fronds are 2 feet or more long, coriaceous in tex- ture, and deep green. The sori upon the under side of the pinna; in this species as well as in grandi- folinm are very conspicuous and ornamental. Indian Archipelago. D. JUGLAXDIFOLIUM.— Fronds upon good ex- amples are nearly 4 feet high, simply pinnate; pinnas numerous, about 8 inches long and 2 inches wide; when fertile the chestnut-red sori are very conspi- cuous and handsome. It is a very effective plant. Jamaica. D. Franconis is an elegant plant, with much- divided fronds, which are triangular in outline, 2 feet to 3 feet long and upwards of a foot broad ; the lobes finely - toothed ; colour bright green. Jamaica, &3. D. COSTALK.-A bold and effective species, but still rare, I believe, in cultivation ; the fronds are from 4 feet to 5 feet long and 2 feet broad ; sori conspicuous and handsome. Jamaica, &c. Besides the above, the following are handsome and effective, bold-growing kinds : D. Kotschyi, conchatum, coarctatum, expansum, umbrosum, and arborescens. W. H. G. Davallia fceniculacea. — This distinct and beautiful Fern is in cultivation. It was introduced a few years ago by Mr. B, S. Williams, of HoUoway, by whom it was sent out in 18SG. I lately saw some good examples of it at Mr. Williams' nursery, and I have also seen it at Mr. May's nursery at Edmonton. It certainly deserves to be extensively grown, but I am 102 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 4, 1888. afraid it will prove rather troublesome to Pjopag^te ^^ the rhizomes do not spread, and most of the kinds are slow to reproduce from spores. — A. Fern fronds for eutting.-Seeing a paragraph in The G.«den, January 14 (p. 38), in reference to Fern fronds for cutting, in my opinion there is no 1- ern for cutting equal to Adiantum decorum. _ I have tried most Ferns. I find this one lasts better in water^and is just as easily grown as the commonest 1? ern.— w. Vj. Marshall. Orchids. W. H. GOWER. SMALL-LIPPED ONCIDIDMS. This trroup received originally the generic name of Cyrtocliihim. They have, however, been merged into the genus Oncidium, in Lmdley's group Microchila. The species contained in this group for the most part produce large and showy flowers ; they are also remarkable for the great length of the climbing panicles, which are much branched and many flowered. The flowers are diflerent to those of the majority of Oncidiums, which have a large and sho^vy lip and small, somewhat inconspicuous sepals and petals ; the contrary is, however, the case with Oncidiums of the ]\Iicrochila group, for with them it is the sepals and petals which are the conspicuous parts. It is not surprising to find these plants becoming daily more popular, as they are very robust in growth, and free - flowering, provided they are kept Eufliciently cool. Being mountain plants, they cannot endure a high temperature, but succeed well in the coolest end of an Odontoglossum house. The spikes are several months before the attain their full length, and until this is accomplished the flowers do not appear. The finest member of this group yet introduced is, undoubtedly, O. jiACBANTHUM, an excellent coloured plate of ■which was given in The Garden of December 1, 1883 (p. 4 Hi). It is a native of Peru and New Grenada, and has been found on the Andine Mountains at TiinO feet and 14,000 feet altitude. The large ovoid pseudo-bulbs are upwards of 3 inches high, smooth and deep green when young, but becoming much wrinkled and paler in colour with age ; the leaves are bold, being upwards of 1 foot long, and l.V inches broad, and deep green. The flower-spike is scandent, from 11 feet to 12 feet long, loosely - branched and many - flowered ; between forty and fifty flowers may sometimes be seen open at one time upon a single panicle, and they con- tinue many weeks in full beauty. The individual flowers are from 3 inches to 4 inches across, round and full in outline ; sepals roundish oblong, thick and fleshy in texture ; ground colour deep yellow, tinged with purplish brown ; petals golden yellow, streaked with deep blood colour at the base ; lip small, very thick, and leathery in texture ; side lobes rich, deep purplish brown, front lobe yellow. There are several superb varieties of this plant in cultivation. One that I noted last season flowering in Mr. Ball's nursery at Chelsea was remarkable for the perfect rotundity of its blooms, and for having both sepals and petals of a rich golden yellow. In the variety Williamsianum the sepals are curiously blotched with Indian purple, which renders it very distinct. I recently noted numerous fine examples of this species both in Mr. Williams' nursery at HoUoway and also in Mr. .lames' nursery at Norwood, the plants having numerous panicles of bloom not yet fully developed ; in both establish- ments the plants are kept in the very coolest hoiises, and abacdantly supplied with moisture and air. 0. suPERlilENS is a plant similar in habit to the preceding. It is a native of New Grenada and Venezuela, growing up to noOO feet altitude, and therefore succeeds best under the coolest treat- ment. The scandent panicle is several feet in length, and bears from fifteen to thirty flowers, each of which is about 3 inches across ; the broad sepals are rich chocolate-brown, the upper part narrowly bordered with yellow and crisp at the edge; petals somewhat smaller than the sepals, ground colour yellow, the upper half clear rich yellow, the basal half transversely banded with chocolate-brown; the hp is of the same colour as the sepals, and bears a yellow crest. This species is well figured on p. 2"i; of the " Orchid Album," 0. lamelligebum.— This is still a somewhat rare plant. I, however, recently noted nice ex- amples of in Mr. Measures' collection at Streatham, also in Mr. James' nursery at Norwood and in Mr. Measures' collection at Camberwell. By some it is supposed to be a natural hybrid ; the plant, how- ever, is the exact counterpart of 0. macranthum in growth; the panicle is scandent and many-flowered, the upper sepal being large and reniform, deep brown, bordered with yellow, the lateral ones being much narrower and similar in colour; petals yellow, the basal part blotched with brown. It is a native of Ecuador. O. Sebbatum was introduced many years ago by M. Linden, of Brussels, who distributed it as 0. diadema, which name, from the peculiar shape of the petals, would have been very applicable had it not already possessed a name. This plant is not so often seen in collections as it deserves, for a good variety is really very handsome. The scandent panicle is from G feet to 10 feet long and many- flowered ; flowers some 3 inches across, and bright chocolate or cinnamon-brown; the sepals and petals are crisp at the edges, and the latter are drawn together, forming a perfect crown or diadem to the column. It succeeds well only when grown quite cool. 0. MONACHlctJM is a somewhat similar plant to the preceding; the flowers are large, chocolate- brown, blotched with cinnamon, and narrowly bordered with pale yellow; the petals are much crisped and drawn together over the column. It comes from the mountains of New Grenada, where it is said to grow in the vicinity of a similar species named 0. metallicum. 0. undulatuji is another very fine species, an example of which I recently noted with a very long, but undeveloped flower-spike in Mr. Measures' col- lection at Camberwell. It is said to have large flowers, the sepals of which are chocolate-brown, and the petals are white, suffused with mauve at the base; but the accuracy of this description I hope soon to be able to verify. And now a word about the training of the scandent flower-spikes of these plants. Of course, those who grow them for sale endeavour to keep them as compact as possible for the con- venience of removal, and hence we generally see in nurseries the spikes trained round three or four upright sticks placed just inside_ the pot. Those who use their plants for exhibition generally train them in this manner, but it is by no means the best way to display their beauties. I once saw a quantity of spikes of several of the above-named kinds trained care- lessly over the roof of a small Odontoglossum house between and through some shoots of Myrsiphylluiii. The efl'ect was charming, and although I have tried various plans to improve upon this style, I have never succeeded, and 1 strongly advise those who do not wish to remove their plants when in flower to adopt this plan, and dispense with the ugly sticks. Phajus Humbloti.— This is still a rare plant, and one of which Orchid cultivators do not yet nppenr to have learnt the proper treatment. I have observed that it appears to be of a rambling habit, and its roots :ippear to be impatient of confinement. Tho bulbs are stem-like, bearing several plaited leaves; the raceme is erect, bearing several large showy flowers, which are china-white on the outside, rose-coloured within, curiouslv blotched and streaked with red, white, and orange. ' It is one of the introductions of the Messrs. Veitch from the island of Madagascar, probably from the coast region, as it requires strong moist heat to grow in, all the season, although when m bloom it is verv beautiful, and a most interesting and distinct species. I do not think it will ever make a handsome plant. It mav, however, improve in appearance with longer acquaintance. It is now flowering lu Mr. bouth- gate's collection at Selborne, Streatham.— n . Anaellia africana.— Though a species that is by no means a novelty, it is uncommon in collections, notwithstanding its freedom of flowering and bold beauty. A specimen at Mr. Bull's has two pendent spikes that carry many flowers, and in Williams' "Orchid Manual" a plant bearing a spike with a hundred flowers is recorded. This must have been a picture, as even when there is not half this amount of bloom the plant is ornamental. It will do well in an East India house during the growing season, but should when in bloom be removed to a cooler quarter to preserve the beauty of the flowers as long as possible. The habit of this Orchid is robust; the stems about 3 feet high, and the pendent racemes of considerable length ; the sepals and petals aie yellow, also the lip, but the former have rich spot- tings of lustrous brown. It is named in honour of Mr John Ansell, who is stated to have discovered it growing at the base of a Palm tree in Fernando Po. liselia anceps is an Orchid that has a consider- able progeny, and the type varies greatly as regards the colour of the flowers. This species is bloom- ine freely at Mr. Bull's nursery at Chelsea, and a va- riety named Hilli is noteworthy for its clear whiteness relieved by lilac colouring on the expanded portion of the lip and the inner margins of the arched lateral lobes. In one of the houses there was also blooming a new Lailia, described as a natural hybrid, and it; certainly is of the anceps type, its flowers having the same character. These are compact, about the ^ame size, or perhaps rather smaller than those of an ordinary anceps, but richly coloured ; the sepals and petals deep pink, almost magenta, and showing but little difference from the lip ; the throat of the latter is orange with purple stripes. At Messrs. Veitch's a plant of L. anceps WiUiamsi was flower- ing; this has the sepals and petals pure white, the lobes of the lip coloured inside with gold and purple, the base yellow. Dendrobium euoEmum leucoptertun.— This is another addition to the list of beautiful Orchids raised by Mr. Seden. and it is flowering now at the Chelsea nursery of Messrs. Veitch. It is a hybrid between the lovely D. endocharis and D. nobile, and from such parents we might expect a beautilul progeny It originated from the same pod as euosmum, which flowered first, and euosmumroseum, the second to blossom, the subject of this note appearing last of all. The flowers are about the same size as those of an ordinary form of nobile the colour snow white, save the base of the hp, where there is a blotch of rich purple-magenta that sets ofi the purity of the other portion of the flower. Its delicate beauty and chasteness will raise it to a high place amongst its fellows. D. euosmum has a flush of pink absent in leucopterum, and the variety euosmum roseum has a still deeper shade ot the same hue. As tar as one can see, it is as free- flowering as the old D. nobile, and has the advan- tage ot a delightfully pure colour that we do not find in this old favourite. Fish manure for Orchids.— Much has been written upon the beneficial results of the applica- tion of fish manure to Orchidaceous plants. I must confess to have always been an unbeliever in its ad- vantages, and therefore may be considered some- what prejudiced against it. It has been said that plants to which this manure has been applied have made enormous growths and produced wonderful crops of bloom, but after upwards of /twelve- month's observation, I am fully convinced that it is not beneficial to Cvpripediums. In Mr. Soutbgate s garden at Streatham there exists a good representa- tive collection of these Slipper Orchids, mostly of large examples, and some twelve months or more ago the fish manure was applied to them, and all last sea- son I visited them from time to time to observe the effect, and upon each visit it was plainly visible that they were deteriorating. The plants declined in health, the leaves assumed a bad colour, and it was too plainly evident that they were going wrong, io- Feb. 4,' 1888;] THE GARDEN. 103 wards the autumn, Mr. Salter being convinced that this state of things was attributable to the fish manure, he speedily removed the plants, cut away the dead roots, o£ which there were quantities, washed the remainder, and repotted them into good, sweet peat and Sphagnum Moss. Since then the plants have been rapidly improving in health, the colour has returned, the leaves have plumped up, -and they are producing roots in abundance ; so that ■whatever Orchids are benefited by the application of fish manure, it is evident that Cypripediums are not among the number. I should like to hear the ex- perience of others that have used this manure; it may suit some Orchids, and if so, cultivators would be glad to know what particular plants it does per- manently benefit. — W. H. G. COOL-HOrSE ORCHIDS AT CHESHUNT. After the Phalaenopsids, the most notable Orchids in Mr. Partington's garden are the Odontoglossums, 'and at the time of my visit great numbers of Odontoglossum Alexandrte and 0. odoratum were in flower — perhaps as many as one would see open here at any one time, as the spikes are cut most lavishly for purposes of indoor decoration. About half-a-dozen spikes, some of which bore as many as forty flowers, were cut whilst I was in the house. These Odontoglossums receive, except during the hottest days in summer, as much light as it is pos- sible to give them and air in abundance, which is, however, tempered with moisture, whilst the temperature is kept as low as possible. The plants ' are in the most robust health, having made very large bulbs of an intense deep green, and the majority of the plants of 0. Alexandra; are bearing two gigantic spikes upon each bulb, many of the spikes being branched. These branching forms, I am told, came out of a batch of plants imported by Mr. Shuttleworth, and it would be well if more of these varieties were imported, for they are very showy and beautiful. The flowers on the majority of these branched spikes are not so large and full as the flowers -of the types, which are considered by some as the most desirable. Several of them are producing superb full blooms, richly spotted and of fair size, some being large, and all of them equal to the form figured by Bateman in his " Monograph of Odonto- glossums." The quantity of tiowers is quite astonish- ing; for example, 1 noted one plant bearing two spikes from the bulb; each spikehad seven branches; one of the spikes bore forty flowers, and the other fifty flowers. Fancy what a display ninety flowers — and these of large size — from one bulb would make. I also noticed several plants bearing six nnbranched spikes from three bulbs. Indeed, it seems to be quite the normal condition of the plants to produce two spikes from a bulb, even of the best forms. A finely-grown plant of the Lily-of-the- Valley-like 0. pulchellum majus was bearing four- teen spikes of bloom just opening. Masdevallias are doing well in a lean-to house with a north aspect. They are kept very cool. Flowering now are dozens of grand specimens of the lovely M. tovarensis bearing hundreds of its flowers. Besides these were numerous examples of the brilliant M. ignea and M. amabilis and the curious M. troohilus. Fine varieties of Sophronitis also formed a pleasing and striking contrast to the white Masdevallia, and numerous Lycastes will soon afford an additional variety of colours. Intermediate house kinds were also very gay, numerous Cattleya Trianiu being conspicuous. These plants, it was said, had been obtained from the Messrs. Low as the ordinary kind, but some very distinct and desirable varieties appear to be amongst them ; indeed, every plant that has as yet flowered is diffe- rent. I noted one form similar, if not identical, with the kind called RoUissoni, another very similar to that called Schncderfe, another like Atalanta, and one quite an ordinary form. Here also were flower- ing in profusion numerous plants with numbers of spikes, the lovely Lfelia albida and its variety bella being noteworthy. These plants have been esta- blished for some years, and flower regularly upon the home-made growths. L. autumnalis and L. anceps were in abundance, and several examples of the va- riety Percivaliana and Hilli. The latter is a very chaste flower, the sepals and petals white, lip white tipped with pale pink, with an orange-coloured disc. Associated with these were numerous Ccelogyne cristata, which will soon constitute an exhibition of themselves. Vanda Cierulea, the flowers of which were over, is grown here in the intermediate house all the year round. In the East India house An- grfecum sesquipedale was very fine with five spikes, bearing in the aggregate eighteen flowers of the purest ivory whiteness I have ever seen. Saccola- bium giganteum was still flowering, although late, as also was the white S. Harrisonianum. A very fine plant of the rare Aerides vandarum was just opening its white blooms, and dozens of Dendrobium nobile, grown in small pots, are densely covered with buds just bursting; while in a cool house many more of this fine old species are being kept back to form a succession. Aerides japonicum, a curious Japanese plant, very little known and but seldom seen, appears to thrive here in the intermediate house ; it is now pushing up numerous spikes. Cypri- pediums are not very much grown at Heaton House ; nevertheless, nice examples of C. insigne, C. Spicer- ianum, and C. Harrisianum represented the genus. W. H. G. SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS. In the Garienflora of January a capital plate is given of Cattleya velutina var. Lietzei, an Orchid represented with medium-sized flowers, sepals and petals brownish, spotted distinctly, but sparsely, with red ; the lip white, lilac stripes, and broad margin of primrose ; the column lilac-purple. The ■white Lycaste Skinneri. — We occasion- ally find this in private collections, though it is still very rare. A plant is blooming at Mr. Bull's, and the flowers represent a good form, the sepals and petals massive and pure white. It is certainly one of the choicest of the Lycastes, as there are no spottings or markings of any colour; so we have a bold, chaste flower. Broughtonia sanguinea. — In regird to cul- tural directions upon Broughtonia sanguinea, I have found that it has done exceedingly well with me over a tank with Vandas and Nepenthes. It luxuriates in a warm and moist atmosphere and fully exposed to light, and I believe that if it has a preference it would do best on a piece of Tree Fern stamp. — W. SOI'EK. Aerides Pieldingi. — This is a beautiful dis- tichous-leaved Orchid from Assam, popularly known as the Fox-brush Aerides, from the length and density of its racemes ; the flowers are rose-coloured and white. It is an old inhabitant of our stoves, yet it does not appear to have been figured in any of our botanical works. Au excellent portrait of this species is given in the December number of the "Orchid Album." Masdevallia amabilis lineata. — This is a pretty variation from the original 11. amabilis. Its flowers are of a deeper and richer colour, and strongly lined with crimson-purple on the sepals. In other respects it does not differ materially from the type. It may be seen in flower now at Kew, together with various other interesting species of Masdevallia, none of which are so attractive to the general visitor and favourites with everyone as the snow-white M. to- varensis. Twin-flowered Lady's Slippers. — Last autumn twin-flowered spikes of C. insigne and other Cjpripedes were shown as examples of monstrous growth, but, as we stated at the time, this is not of un- usual occurrence. A plant of C. insigne at Devon- hur.st, Chiswick, carried this season several spikes, half of which were twin-flowered. Mr. Wright, the head gardener, informed us that the soil used was a mixture of bone-meal and Sphagnum, the robust health of the plants inducing this free-flowering character. Cattleya maxima decora. — This is said to be a very finely marked form of this species, and a plant of it is now showing flower in Mr. Southgate's collec- tion at Streatham. The manner of its flowering is somenhat remarkable. It appears that two years ago this plant formed and matured a strong pseudo-bulb, which bore a sheath on its apex. This bulb before long made another bulb from the same bud, which also bore a sheath, hut, contrary to expectation, neither sheath produced flowers. Last year, again, the plant made two bulbs in the same manner, both with sheaths, and I observed when visiting there recently that this spring all four bulbs will produce a raceme of flowers, as they are already pushing up through the sheaths. — W. Kitchen Garden. MODERN MUSHROOM HOUSES. No garden may be said to be complete without a Mushroom house, and very few places ot any size are without one. This is as it should be, but, unfortunately, tlie improving hot-house builder has had too much to do with their erec- tion of late years, and as a consequence they are much more ornamental than of old, and not nearly so well adapted to the retiuirements of the Mushroom. Numbers of houses are to be seen on the north side of a range of forcing houses or vineries, and fully exposed to the cold cutting winds from all northerlj' directions. The walls are usually of 9-inch brickwork and the roof slated, bol;h conditions being most favourable to lowering the temperature of the house, for which, however, ample provision lias been made in the shape of two or more rows of hot-water pipes. Bench after bench is formed, or many more than are ever occupied by the beds, and all so contrived as to render it ex- tremely awkward to get at the beds. Alto- gether such houses very frequently prove most disappointing, a good crop of Blushrooms rarely being seen in them. Nor are the reasons far to seek. They are either too cold or too hot, and are not capable of keeping out currents of cold, dry air. The best Mushrooms and the heaviest crops are grown without any fire-heat, but not in the modem structures just described, but either in the old-fashioned Mushroom houses, in cellars and caves, or the open air. Old hi>uses are usually in a less exposed position, the best of them being sheltered from both sun- shine and cold winds. The walls are thicker, and the roofs either thatched, or if tiled or slated, have an inside ceiling. About one broad bench, in many cases supported by an arched brick wall and not less than 4 feet from the ground, is taken nearly all round the house, the advantages of which arrangement are obvious enough. Then if the doorway is arranged some- what similar to that adopted in some ice houses, tliese having two doors, one opening outwardly and the other inwardly, currents ot either hot or cold air may be excluded. Failing the double doors, a thatched hurdle or doubled mats may be made to fit closely to the door, these making several degrees' difference eitlier way to the tem- perature of the house. No tire-heat whatever is needed or ought to be given in a good old Mush- room house. Not so the modern structure, at at any rate, if a uniform temperature is con- sidered necessary. As a consequence, the fire- heat is turned on pretty freely too at times, this also necessitating a free use of the syringe or watering-pot, these often doing as much harm as the high temperatures. That these modern structures are not well adapted to Mushroom culture, any intelligent reader in "The Parks and Gardens of Paris" of the way in which such immense quantities of Mushrooms are grown in the caves and quarries about Paris must admit. According to this authority, the cultivators zealously guard against an.y flucliuations of temperature, and the venti- lation is cleverly contrived accordingly. Dis- used vaults and cellars are frequently utilised in this country for Mushroom culture with ex- cellent results. These are available nearly all the year round, as they never reach a very high temperature or fall too low, and, it is almost needless, to add, neither fire-heat nor cold air 104 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 4, 1888. reaoli these places. One of the most successful examples of Mushroom culture in a disused wine-cellar may be seen at Gunnersbury House, Acton. It is away from the house, or for sani- tary reasons it would not be available for the purpose, and Mr. Hudson has few or no failures. I do not wisli to infer that Mushrooms simply grow anyhow in suitable structures. A certain amount of skill and experience is necessary in all cases, so much depending on the quality of the manure, its preparation, and the formation and subsequent treatment of the beds. A suitable house simply renders Mushroom culture easy and profitable. What is wanted is not merely a few small gatherings of poor Mushroom.s, but a long supply of fresh juicy ones. Modern structures, as before stated, being liable to let in cold currents of air, they are sup- posed to necessitate the employment of fire-heat, in order to keep the temperature somewhere about 60°. Now, it is no easy matter to nicely re- gulate the heat of hot-water pipes or the flues with which some houses are warmed, and it fre- quently happens the temperature is very near 70°. This, according to my experience, is fully l!i° too high, a uniform temperature of about 55° being ample. At times the heat of a new bed will raise it 5° or more, but this is very different to the heat generated by the pipes, and which dries the beds to a most injurious extent. We learn that in the low-roofed quarries where the highest temperatures prevail the beds are the quickest to arrive at a bearing state, but do not last so long as those in the high-roofed, and therefore cooler, caverns. Plenty of English growers could corroborate this statement, and those who consume the produce could also truthfully add that the Mushrooms grown in rather low temperatures are much the best in point of quality. In reality a well-screened Mushroom house ought to need no fire-heat whatever. It will never be too cold, especially when new beds are formed at short intervals. Preserve the heat in the beds as much aspossible, as it is there where it is most needed, and trouble less about the top-heat. No amouut of fire-heat will long benefit a bed formed with horse-droppings which have been badly pre- pared, whether by being overheated, or allowed to become unduly saturated with moisture. If the heat of a bed declines rapidly after being spawned, eventually becoming quite cold, no amount of fire-heat will ensure a good crop of Mushrooms. When such beds are on the floor there is no obviating the difliculty, but if it is on the old-fashioned and rather high bench, a gentle hot-bed formed with well -prepared mate- rial, such as stable manure and leaves, may be placed under the bed, and this being occasion- ally renewed will keep the heat up capitally overhead. We have frequently saved our beds in this way. Unfortunately, for the past two seasons we have been unable to procure fresh droppings, and have to be content with those that can be shaken out from rather stale strawy manure. We prepare these piincipally by fre- (|uent turnings in order to dry them somewhat, outdo not ilepend upon them for the bottom- heat, this being supplied by a solid hotbed of wtUprepared leaves and manure. The droppings merely act as a medium for the spawn to spread in. We gathered Muslirooms in the coldest weather, an<23, the late Sir Anthony l!uller (who was a judge in India) sent to his brother-in-law, the late Mr. John Hearle Tremayne, of Heligan, various seeds, among which were some of the Benthamia fragifera. Of these, two were successfully raised ; but eventually, becoming too large for the green- house, and never having shown flo%vers or fruit, they were planted out in the open border. When about twelve years old they commenced to flower and fruit, and the numerous plants raised from them have flourished luxuriantly here ever since. The carriage drive for upwards of a mile is lined with Benthamia fragifera (many being self-sown), the creamy white flowers of which form a most striking and beautiful feature, contrasted with the purple bloom of the Rhododendron ponticum, over which they tower, many of the trees being upwards of 43 feet high. They fruited in great abundance last year, notwithstanding the previous unusually severe winter, and we gathered a plentiful supply for Christmas decorations. In 1838 two specimens were exhibited at the Royal Horticultural Society's show at Cbiswick, for which a silver medal was granted. The society, not knowing the species, named them after Jlr. Bentham, the then secre- tary to the society. — WILLIAM OsBORKE, Heligan, St.' Austell, in FicM. Abies brachyphylla is a Conifer that can be highly recommended as a beautiful hardy and rapid- growing lawn tree. It is more like A. Nordmanni- ana than any other I know, except it be the common Silver Fir (A. pectinata). It is hand- some in growth, having regular whorls of branches densely beset with leaves of a very deep green above, silvery beneath. Its annual rate of growth in warm soils and sheltered positions ranges from 9 inches to 15 inches, the latter where the plants are much sheltered. It is, no doubt, perfectly hardy, as young trees have withstood the severe cold of recent winters, and it is said to stand the Danish winters. It is a Japanese tree, growing wild on the mountain plains, and was introduced to Europe about seventeen years ago. It is one of the Conifers I should include in a selection of the very best. — W. G. The green Euonymus at this season stands out conspicuous from all other Evergreens in London gardens on account of its cheery and healthful appearance. It is certainly the shrub for smoky town gardens, being perfectly indifferent to a pol- luted atmosphere, and, probably on account of the absence of variegation, undoubtedly hardier than the variegated silver and golden Euonymuses which are so popular as window-box plants. I notice that in the squares and gardens in the East End of Lon- don, especially in the neighbourhood of the docks, the green Euonymus thrives with astonishing vigour, and grows so rapidly, that small plants planted five years ago are now great bushes a yard high and as much through. It is of symmetrical growth, dense and round-headed, and grows well in any soil. Too much cannot be said of its merits as a town Evergreen. In exposed country gardens it is not so suitable, as it is liable to be cut off by frosts. Like the Plane, its home seems to be the London square. — Q. SHORT NOTES.— TREES AND SHRUBS. Berberis nepalensis.— Believing the above to be a rarity out of doors, excepting perhaps in f,>ivoured spots along the south coast and Ireland, it may interest some of your readers to know that on the lawn here (N. Wales) we have a specimen in robust health fully 12 feet high by 18 feet diameter. Unfortunately until a few years since it was smothered up with com- mon Rhododendrons, &e., or probably it would be now of much larger dimensions. " W. G.'s" note of the plant at Kew is my excuse for writing this. — J. B., Tan-ll■hu■lcll,^\W. In The G.iRDEX (p. 65) there are some remarks on this Berberis, a fine specimen of which is growing here without any protection. It is about 10 ft. high and from r feet to 8 feet through, and flowers freely, but will not be in bloom for a month yet. The position is very much exposed to north-west winds, and after a strong gale the edges of the leaves become brown, but the growth docs not seem to suffer. — E. Peters, Gvernsey. Hardy Laurels. — I remember exhibiting Laurus rotundifolia before a committee of the Royal Horti- cultural Society seventeen years ago, when it received a second-class certificate only. Outsiders, however, .=aw what the committee failed to see, although it was shown in good condition, and the stock of it sold rapidly. That it is a first-class Evergreen has been long acknowledged, but whether it is hardier than colchica or cauuasiea I could scarcely say, as these three sortfl are equally hardy here. All three are greatly superior to the common Laurel. L. rotundi- folia is the smoothest, neatest, and the best for dressed grounds; L. colchica is the grandest and the Feb. 4, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 107 best for shrubberies and such positions as are most suitably filled by a hardy Erergrreen of diffuse habit. — William Pai'l, Paul.i' Nurseries, Waltham Cross. The Acacia or Locust tree.— Referriug to the note in The Gakhen, Jun. 21 (p. 64), I may say that most of the hedges along the railway from Vienna to Buda-Pesth consist of this Acacia. I noticed it par- ticularly on very sandy districts where no other shrub could exist. In the park attached to the Imperial Gardens at Godollo, near Buda-Pesth (the soil being of a sandy nature), the majority of the old trees are Acacias. Taking a stroll through the village, I observed the Acacia planted in masses about the isolated houses of the peasants. In Austria the Acacia is frequently planted along the sides of roads, but when so grown it is occasionally beheaded. — Louis Kropatsch, Lai-en- burg, NOTES ON SHRUBS. Gabeta ELLiPTicA. — " J. C. C," in The Garden of December 31 (p. OKJ). recommends this plant as being suitable for the Grass lawn as well as the shrubbery, and I quite agree with him. " J. C. C." further says, " It is unfortunate that severe frost injures the flowers, but I have never known any other part of the plant suffer from keen cold." I may, however, state that I have had the shrub killed by frost when planted in a sheltered situation at an elevation of about 10(10 feet above sea level. The Potato Tree (Solanum crispum). — In The Garden of December 31 (p. 615), "J. M." asks If this tree ever fruits in England, and is the fruit of any ornamental merit ? Here against a west wall there is one which annually makes shoots S feet and 10 feet long, and as thick as a man's thumb. . . . From its extraordinary vigour, I suspect the roots have found their way into a drain that runs at no great distance. I have never seen this tree bear fruit either in Eng- land or Scotland, but I have seen it in Ireland. A tree planted as a standard in a sheltered situation on the lawn at an elevation of about SO feet pro- duced for a considerable time during the summer plenty of flowers, which were followed by some fruit. The latter is of no ornamental merit what- ever, being of a round globular form, and of the size of a small bullet. The roots of " J. M.'s " tree may have found their way into a drain, which probably would stimulate its growth ; but the tree naturally grows with great vigour, so much so that it gets top-heavy, and it is only by staking and tying that it can be kept in position. Lime trees dtiko. — In The Garden of Jannary 7 (p. 3), " J. C." says :— Would any of the readers of The Garden kindly advise as to the best time to prune Lime|trees? 1 pruned some in January last, and others I cut in in August. Of those that were pruned in the early part of the year all are more or less dying back to the main trunk. In all respects, except in the case of the branches that have been pruned, the trees are quite healthy. You should prune your Lime trees in the month of July. When branches are removed or cut back at that season, the bark soon forms a callus round the margin of the wound, and the healing process com- mences immediately. In cases where the saw is used, care must be taken to have the surface of the wound pared and smoothed with a sharp knife to prevent the lodgment of water. J. B. AV. Bambaea viridi-glaucescens. — This is one of the very best of the hardy Bamboos, quite unsur- passed in point of gracefulness and beauty, and appears to be perfectly hardy. N ear a small stream, and thereforegrowing in moistground, I have a speci- men about 10 feet high and over 13 feet in diameter. It is a fine specimen, and last year when Thamno- calamus Falconeri, the commonest Bamboo of gar- dens, was killed to the ground by the unusually biting winds of spring, it was uninjured. For this plant I am indebted to M. Jlax Leichtlin, who sent it under the above name. In Nicholson's dictionary it is given as a synonym under B. nana, and this may be correct, but I prefer to keep the old name until I can study the nomenclature of these hardy Bamboos. The little plant grown as B. nana has no title to the name. In the above dictionary B. nana and B. aurea are figured, and to give an idea of what this specimen is like, I may say that it has the fine arching habit of the former, with the light gracefulness and complete furnishing to the ground of the latter. — R. Irwin Ltnch, Botanic Gardens, Cambridi/e. Propagating. SOLANUMS. — Where it is intended to propagate Solanums for nest winter's display, no time should be lost in putting in the cuttings, as plants increased in this way are preferable to those grown from seed, being more fruitful in a small state ; while seed- lings cannot be depended upon to reproduce plants all of which are equal to the parent. Where the fruiting specimens have been kept in a greenhouse throughout the winter they will by this time in most cases have made a few shoots, which will form the best cuttings. The shoots selected for the pur- pose should be clean and sturdy, and especial care taken that they are quite clear of insect pests, as if these are present on them they will, in the close at- mosphere of the propagating case, increase rapidly, and severely injure the young foliage. There is also a kind of white fly which sometimes attacks the under sides of the leaves, and which is diflicult to di>lodge when once it obtains a foothold. If the cuttings are dibbled into pots of light, sandy soil, and placed in a close propagating case, they soon form roots, after which they must without delay be hardened off. Shoots taken from the upper part of the plant make more satisfactory cuttings than those from the lower portion of the side branches. So readily does the seed germinate, that I have fre- quently seen it commence to grow while still in the fruit on the plant. Soft-wooded plants. — A great many soft- wooded subjects, such as Fuchsias, Heliotropes, Petunias, Lobelias, &c., are kept during the winter drier than usual, and this, combined with the lower temperature, causes the plants to go partially to rest, and when they start in the spring they make more rapid progress than those that have been growing throughout the winter. In the case of those varieties which it is desired to increase as much as possible the plants will start into growth more strongly, and, consequently, yield a much larger number of cuttings if they are repotted now. Not only are the shoots more numerous when the roots find their way into the new soil, but they also gain considerably in vigour. So rapidly do the shoots grow, that where it is desired to take the fullest advantage of them the stock plants may be gone over every week and a crop of cuttings taken. Plants of this class do not entail much trouble in their propagation, but the cuttings stiike more quickly if kept close, though it is by no means necessary, as they will form roots if exposed to the ordinary atmosphere of the house. Again, a manure bed may be made up and employed for the propa- gation of such things, but the better way with most, if rapid increase is desired, and there is not a propagating house for the purpose, is to have a small ease or two made on the same principle as an ordinary garden frame, and place them in a house which is maintained at an intermediate temperature. If so arranged that the pots can get just a little bottom heat so much the better. I have sometimes seen the cuttings struck in a bed of Cocoa-nut refuse without the need of pots at all, but this is not to be commended, as it is then necessary, to prevent the delicate roots decaying, to pot off the cuttings directly they are rooted (which is not always convenient). Again, when in pots they may, if needed, be shifted into a lighter position to keep them from becoming drawn directly the first root or two makes its appearance, and before they are sufliciently advanced to be potted off. A soil well suited for the general run of soft- wooded cuttings is a mixture of loam, well-decayed leaf mould, and sand, the wholebeingpassed through a sieve with a quarter of an inch mesh. The rougher portions of the soil that do not pass through the sieve may be used as drainage in the bottom of the pots, and in a general way it will be ample : for pots 4 inches in diameter are quite big enough for the purpose, though should larger ones be preferred it is better to put a few broken crocks in the bottom. The soil should only be made solid enough to hold the cutting in its place after it is inserted therein. A word as to the taking of the cuttings may not be out of place, for where it is desired to make the most of a stock plant, the young shoots must not be taken off altogether, but the bottom pair of leaves should always be allowed to remain, as the dormant buds there will then start into growth, and in their turn yield a supply of cuttings in much less time than would be the case if the young shoots were entirely severed. Should there be a space of 1 inch or more between the joints the cutting may be taken off immediately above the leaves that are to remain on the plant, thus there will be at the base of the cutting and below the bottom buds a length of naked stem. In a general way this will be long enough when buried in the soil to hold the cutting in position, it being dibbled in just deep enough to allow the bottom leaves to be level with the soil. There is a wide-spread opinion that it is absolutely necessary to leave a joint at the base of all cuttings, but it is a mistaken idea, as they strike root just as well if the length of naked stem below the joint forms the bottom of the cutting. 0£ course, far more plants can be propagated in this way than if a joint is to be left at the bottom of each, as an instance of which I may mention that where as rapid a propagation as possible is needed, a shoot, say of Fuchsia, may be taken with perhaps five pairs of leaves and the terminal bud, when with a sharp knife the stem may be cut clean through just above each joint. The result is it is divided into five portions, each consisting of a pair of leaves and their accompanying buds, with, of course, a length of naked stem attached to each. These may be dibbled at such a depth that the leaf-stalks are level with the soil, and each will strike as readily and form as good a plant as if the entire shoot or the upper part only was used as a cutting. Of course these remarks apply only to young shoots that are sJill in a soft-growing con- dition, as when they show signs of flowering (be the plant what it may) cuttings are far more difficult to strike. Though Lobelias of the speciosa class are often raised from seeds, great numbers are still propagated by means of cuttings, and a very good way of successfully dealing with them is to keep the stock plants rather close for about ten days or a fortnight, when the additional warmth and in- creased atmospheric moisture will cause young roots to be pushed out from all parts of the stems. When cut off and dibbled in as cuttings into pots, pans, or boxes, they start away at once, or the stock plants may be split up into as many as are re- quired, each with a certain number of attendant roots, and when potted, if kept close for a few days till root-action recommences, they will give no further trouble. Where seedlings are to be raised the seed should be sown at once in boxes or pans of soil, the same as that above recommended for cuttings. Before sowing the seed the surface of the soil should be moistened through a fine rose and the seed at once sprinkled thinly thereon. It must be covered very slightly with some fine sandy soil and then placed in the coolest part of the stove or in some such structure. A pane of glass over the surface of the pot will assist germination by maintaining the soil in a regular state of moisture. Directly the young plants make their appearance they must be shifted to a shelf near the glass to encourage as sturdy a growth as possible, and by degrees be re- moved to a cooler structure. Of course the seed will germinate equally well in a greenhouse tempe- rature, but it takes a longer time and the plants grow slowly during their earlier stages. Pelargoniums can be rapidly increased in early spring, and it is of great advantage where severe losses have taken place dtiring the winter : indeed, spring propagation of these plants is now carried out to a much greater extent than it was formerly. Unlike all the preceding subjects, the cuttings of Pelargoniums strike better in a dry heat than in a close atmosphere freely surcharged with moisture, and another difference is that they require to have a joint left at the base of each cutting. It is not 108 THE GARDEN. absolutely necessary for the success of the cutting, but the most satisfactory results are obtained by those that are out oflE at a joint. Where the cuttings are large the bottom leaves may be removed altogether, but where small it is by far the better way to leave them untouched, as they soon shrivel up and can easily be removed from the plant. It matters little whether the cuttings are put singly into small pots or several in a larger one. In either case a watering may be given sufficient to settle the surface of the soil, and the cuttings then, if possible, stood on a shelf near the glass in a warm greenhouse. They will not require any more water for a little time- indeed, the soil may be allowed to become pretty dry before any is given, otherwise too much mois- ture will cause the very succulent ones to damp off. By this method the more delicate kinds, such as the tricolor-leaved varieties, can be rapidly in- creased ; those of the show and fancy section and such classes are not propagated till later in the season, while the Ivy-leaved kinds will strike now with great freedom. Where it is intended to raise any Pelargoniums from seeds, this is the best time of the year to sow them, as they grow away at once without any check, and if sown earlier in the season they are apt to damp off. As soon as the first rough leaf makes its appearance the young plants must be potted, and at such a depth that the seed- leaves are just above the surface of the soil, as, it potted at too great a height, the young plants are liable to topple over and decay. Not only does this apply to Pelargoniums, but in the case of most sub- jects a very good guide in pricking or potting off seedlings is to bury the stem nearly to the cotyledons. T. Bainfall of 1847.— The following are the num- ber of days in each month of the year 1887 during which rain or snow fell. The amount is shown in inches, and if above or under the average, as ob- served at Bury St. Edmunds. It will be seen that, with the exception of the months of March and May, the rainfall is under the average for each month. The first-named, however, is 0 23 inch above, and the rainfall of May is precisely the ave- rage. _ The rainfall for the year is shown to be 17-78 inches, and this fell in the form of rain or snow during 141 days. Rainfall of each Month of the Year 1887. No. o! Rainfall Above Under Months. davfl on which of the months average in average in rain fell. in inches. inches. incheg. January .. 12 1-75 007 February ... 5 060 1-21 j March ... 12 1-00 0-23 l:Apnl 12 1-26 0-35 May 17 1-94 .Tune 1 0-10 1-99 July 12 1-04 1-50 August 10 1-5L 069 September. . 18 2-02 0-52 October ... 13 209 0-57 November.. 15 2-26 018 December... 14 1-22 1-10 , 141 1778 Rainfall of year, 795 inches under average P Grieve, Bur?/ St. Edmvnds. The rainfall in 1887 at Currygrane, in the county of Longford, was as follows : — Inches. Inches. January ... 279 August ... 2-4« February ... ... 2-43 September ... ... 3-09 March ... 1-10 October ... 1-78 April ... 1-.55 November ... ... 3-30 May ... ... 1-.j8 December ... ... 2 61 June ... 0-17 July ... 3-06 26-00 Average for the last nine years, 3.5-48. My station here is very near the centre of Ireland, and, as you will notice, the total rainfall is very much below the average, and, in fact, most of the usual water supplies ran .short, thus giving an im- mense amount of extra labour in the garden, as it was with difficulty that plants were kept alive. [Feb. 4, 1888. Curiously enough the Grass did not seem to suffer as much as in the county Dublin, and, in fact, for farmers the season was by no means disastrous. The highest recorded maximum reading of the thermometer in the shade was 84° during the week ending June 27.— J. M. Wilson. Law. MRS. REYNOLDS V. WRENCH AND SONS. A CASE of considerable importance to seedsmen and growers came before Mr. Justice Denman in the High Court of Justice on Monday last. The action was brought by a Mrs. Reynolds, a seed grower in Huntingdonshire, against Messrs. Jacob Wrench and Sons, seedsmen, of London, to recover £35. This amount was admitted by the defendants, but they raised a counterclaim for damages under the follow- ing circumstances: In 1884 they sent to the plaintiff some stock seed of Yellow Tankard Turnip, and in due course received what they thought was the produce, amounting to about 60 bushels. This was sold in Nov., 1885, to Peter Lawson and Son, Limited, of Edinburgh, as Yellow Tankard Turnip seed, and as such sold by them to various customers. It was afterwards discovered that the seed was Purple Mammoth Turnip, and claims were made by Peter Lawson and Son's customers pgainst them amount- ing to nearly £400, which they in turn claimed against Messrs. Jacob Wrench and Sons, who claimed the amount from Mrs. Reynolds by way of damages for the breach of contract to grow the stock seed sent her. The action came on for trial at the Huntingdon Assizes, when the jury found in the defendants' favour on the question whether Mrs. Reynolds had returned the wrong crop, and the case was adjourned to London on the question whether the defendants could claim from the plaintiff the amount for which they were liable to Peter Lawson and Son, Limited, or whether they were entitled to nominal damages. It appeared that the defendants' custom was to print on their in- voices the following non-guarantee clause : — Messrs. Jacob Wrench and Son give no warranty, express or implied, as to description, quality, produc- tiveness, or any other matter connected with the seeds they send out, and they will not be in any way respon- sible for the crop. If the purchaser does not accept the goods on these terms they are to be at once re- turned. This clause was on the invoice which accompanied the stock seed when sent to the plaintiff to grow, and was also on the invoice which was sent by the defendants to Peter Lawson and Sons, Limited. The contention on the part of the defendants was that, notwithstanding that clause, they were liable to Peter Lawson and Sons, Limited, as at the time the seeds were sold to them it was understood that they were selling Yellow Tankard Turnip seed, and no other ; whereas the seed sold was Purple Mammoth Turnip, and evidence was adduced to prove a custom in the trade to the effect that when the words " seeds of seller's own growth and stock " were used, it meant that the seed in question was grown from seed specially selected by the seed merchant, and consequently the non-guarantee clause did not apply, and that in the event of any other seed being supplied, the seed merchant would be liable to all the consequences. But, apart from this, it was contended that the words in the non- guarantee clause could not be applied in this case, as the word "description" referred to the goods sold, which were Yellow Tankard Turnip and not the Purple Mammoth Turnip which was delivered. On the part of the plaintiff the alleged custom was repudiated, and her counsel relied on the non- guarantee clause used by the defendants as showing that it was part of the terms on which the seed was sold, and that there was no liability on their part. He also contended that the question turned on the construction of the contract between the plaintiff and the defendants, and no damages could be given which were not in the contemplation of both parties to the contract at the time it was made. By the defendants inserting the non- guarantee clause on the invoice accompanying the stock seed sent to the plantiff they had given her notice that they did not hold themselves liable to their customers, and consequently such damages could not be contemplated by her in the event of a breach of contract to grow the seed, and she could not know that any arrangement had been made when the seed was sold which was inconsistent with the non-guarantee clause. In the result the judge held that the defendants had failed to prove the alleged custom in the trade, and that the defendants must be held to their non- guarantee clause, and that there being no liability on their part they could only claim nominal damages against the plaintiff for the breach of her contract, which he assessed at Is. He gave judg- ment for the plaintiff for the amount claimed less the Is., with costs of action. Death of Professor Asa Gray.— America has lost one of the greatest botanists it has ever pro- duced by the death, at the age of seventy-seven, of Asa Gray. This occurred at Harvard Uni- versity, Cambridge, Massachusetts, last Monday. And not only America, but the whole scientific world, wiU mourn the loss of one of its ablest ex- ponents, a man to whom Darwin was indebted for help in solving many a problem, and whose works are considered of the highest authority. Amongst his books that will have an honoured place in the library of the botanist are " Botanical Text-Book," " Structural and Systematic Botany," and " Manual of Botany," besides many others. He was appointed Professor of Natural History at Harvard College in 1842, and when he relaxed his active duties there in 1873 he travelled much, visiting England, where, by his genial disposition, he won a large circle of friends and admirers. The death of Dr. J. T. Irvine Bos-well, one of the foremost botanists of his time, occurred on January 31, at Balmnto, Fifeshire. Dr. Bos- well was for many years curator to the Botani- cal Society in London, and was a lecturer at the Charing Cross and Middlesex Schools of Medi- cine. He was a man whom we knew well— a real botanist and plant lover. His collection of wild plants was charming to see, and contained speci- mens from every locality. He was one of those botanists who really like and know plants in a living state, and who do not merely approach them from the text-book side. We never met anybody who could so quickly see and point out the diffe- rences separating closely -allied species. At one time, when in London, he was a great hunter after British wUd flowers in all the famous localities about town. The last edition of Sowerby's "Botany " —which is not very remarkable for its plates or printing — is a monument to his care and knowledge of botany. He told us that before writing a de- scription of the plants in the book, he referred to about forty books to see what had already been said of them by the authors of British and Conti- nental floras. He had a great deal to do with the London catalogue of British plants, a very useful publication. Abutilon -vitifoUum.— I should be glad for in- formation as tothe average duration of this, and as to the size and age of the oldest specimens in the country and the conditions under which thev grow. — T. Smith. We learn that a fourth edition of Mr. Lewis Castle's interesting and useful book on "Orchids, their Structure, History, and Culture," is in preparation. One sign of its popularity is that it is being translated into French and German on the Continent. In the list of new Roses for 1887-88 given on pp. 487-88 of Vol. XXXII. there was by an over- sight included the dwarf Polyantha Rose Kiithe Schul- theis (Soupert et Netting), which was distributed the previons season. — T. W. Girdlestone. Lethorion. — Can any of your correspondents give their experience as to the efficacy of "Lethorion," the new substance for smoking plant-houses f Being so much more expensive than tobacco paper it ought to he very efficient and innocuous to make it worth its cost. ■ — A. R., Windermere, Names of plants.— Subso-jJcr.—l, Diplacus glutinosus; 2, Croton longifolius ; 3, Begonia fuch- sioides; 4, Cypripedium venustum ; 5, C. barbatum. R. Lhiyd .—CjpnpeAmm Fostermanni. Fep. 4, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 109 WOODS &L FORESTS. TREES FOR MARSH AND MOUNTAIN. The Aspen Poplak (Populus tremula) is one of our hardiest native trees, and it is not only hardy, but likewise highly ornamental and capable of reproducing itself on all classes of soil and aspects — from the waterlogged marsh in its native glens up to the top of some of our rugged hills. In bare, rocky, exposed situations the Aspen Poplar does not attain a large size, but from its conspicuous position in such places the smallest trees can be seen to advantage, and when these are clothed with their pretty golden coloured foliage in autumn they are highly at- tractive, and when mixed with other trees of a sombre character their character is very marked. In its native wilds the best and largest trees are to be found on damp alluvial soil well mixed with organic matter, and I have likewise found trees of a useful size growing in boggy marsh ground that contained a considerable quantity of stagnant water. In order, however, to grow the tree to the best advantage in such places it is better to have the ground drained, and al- though this wUl entail a little extra expense at the time of formation, yet the quicker growth and larger size of trees produced in this way will far outweigh the extra outlay. The tree may also be grown for profit and utility on ground of ordinary texture, especiallj' such as rests upon a cool clay subsoil of a damp charac- ter, and which has proved unsuitable for cul- tivation. On such a soil I have grown some fine trees of this species which proved both use- ful and ornamental. When cutting this tree in the natural forest I found many of the trees growing upon loose shingle and dry sandy soil to be affected with heart-rot, and although the external appearance of some of the trees at first sight betokened a healthy interior, yet, when cut, in many cases the trunk was but a mere shell. Although I had no means of knowing the age of these trees, yet it is not improbable that had they been cut at an earlier stage of their growth, the stems would have been found to be less afi'ected by this disease. The planter, however, had better not plant this tree on dry, shingly soil and bare rocky places for profit, as I have found young as well as old trees aftected with rot in such positions. On the other hand, where profit is only a matter of secondary consideration, it may be planted on all classes of soil and situations in order to give variety and improve the beauty of the scenery. The timber is used for a variety of purposes, and when sound and of good quality commands a ready sale at prices ranging from 4d. up to 8d. per cubic foot. I have likewise sometimes sold it at 10s. per ton. Cuttings made from twigs and branches of this tree refuse to grow, but cuttings made from the roots and inserted in sandy soil root freely and make fine trees. In the natural forest the tree reproduces itself from seed, which is ripe in early summer. The seeds being surrounded by a soft, cottony sub- stance, are easily carried away by the wind. The Goat Willow (Salix caprea) is another hardy native tree that will grow to a useful size in both marsh and mountain land, and I am astonished that it is not more extensively grown in such places. Although it is generally found inhabiting low-lying, damp ground, yet it is by no means confined to such, and some of the best trees I have ever cut of this species were growing on a juountain slope on loose friable soil resting upon limestone, and at an elevation of about 1000 feet above sea level. The trees referred to here were growing in the natural forest, and although they were not tall, yet they had fine clean trunks of suflicient size to be cut up into planking and boarding fur a va- riety of purposes. The wood is highly prized by ipiarriers and contractors, who use it exten- sively when it can be got for linings to carts, wagons, barrows, feet in circumference, and the diameter of the cavity 16 feet. In the presence of the Archbishop of Guatemala and the Bishop of Puebla more than one hundred boys entered the hollow trunk of this remarkable tree. The stem of the tree for a short distance up is usually hollow, as are likewise the larger knees, these latter rising from 3 feet to 6 feet high, and with a diameter at the base of from 18 inches to 2 feet. A. D. W. WOODED STREAMS. The value of forestry as a practical science has long been recognised both in England and on the Continent, but it is only within a comparatively few years that the people of the United States have awakened to a sense of its importance. The great waste in the destruction of the original forests which has steadily been going on in this country since its first occupation by Europeans has long been recognised as a great and growing evil by thoughtful and observing persons, but, as is usual in such cases, it has taken a long time for the views of the learned to filter down, as it were, to the masses of the people. We are at last, however, be- ginning to learn the true value and use of the forest, and to appreciate the importance and necessity of preserving that which has been left. The general observance of Arbour day has given an impulse to ( popular opinion on this matter. The press seems also to have taken up the subject with considerable vigour, editorial and magazine articles conveying to the public a great deal of popular information con- cerning the science of forestry. One cannot but deplore the wilful and, in many cases, useless destruction of the fine original forests which were scattered so widely over the Eastern States. Our forefathers seem to have been pos- sessed of a burning desire for cleared land, and that propensity they have transmitted with full vigour to us, their posterity. Whether the Government will ever exercise the right of eminent domain in regard to the preservation of the forests which are on lands subject to private ownership, is a matter ot considerable uncertainty. Certainly public in- fluence is not at present suflSciently educated to call for, or even to suffer such an assumption of authority over the right ot the indivdiual to do what he will with his own; but in this country public opinion, when it once begins to form, crystallises very rapidly, and perhaps the time is not so far dis- tant when it will clearly be seen that the doctrine that a man may not use Ids property to the injury of his neighbours or of the State, applies with equal force to the preservation of forests and streams as it has already been applied to other subjects. The effect which large forests have upon the rainfall, and upon the course and volume of rivers and streams, is too well known to need repetition. It is rather the object of this article to point out what may be done in an easy and inexpensive way upon almost every farm where the land is hilly or . oiling. Anyone who has lived much in the country must have been struck with the number of water- courses in the open fields, which are quite dry during the summer, and in time of heavy rains overflow their banks and inundate the adjacent soil ; while streams that flow through a bit of wood seem to retain their volume of water even during the greatest summer heats, and also appear to be less afllected by the freshets in the spring and autumn. The reason of this difference is that in the latter case the banks are kept in place by the roots of the trees, and the temporary obstruction which fallen boughs and occasional heaps of dried leaves and underbrush form retards the progress of the water. The protection from the sun's rays, afforded by the overhanging branches, also aids. In the case of large tracts of woodland, an action and re-action by which the moisture in the atmo- sphere is precipitated to the earth in the form of rain, and again returned to the atmosphere in the form of vapour, go on, but let all the trees and underbrush be cleared away, and in a short time we shall have, instead of the pleasant forest stream, a dry ditch in summer and a rushing torrent in winter, with the bed ot the stream growing deeper and wider every year. On the contrary, if one of these ditches be treated in what may be called a curative way, the effect, while perhaps not instan- taneous, will be far more gratifying. The precise kinds of trees that may be used with advantage to turn such a dry ditch into a running stream vary according to the climate and other peculiarities of the locality; but Nature herself, if carefully obsersred, will afford ample suggestions. Willows, in all their numerous varieties. Birches, and the well-known Beech all thrive well, and are ornamental in their appearance. Bushes and young trees may be transplanted with little trouble from neighbouring streams, the banks of the ditch graded, and where a little trouble and time can be afforded the bare portions of the slope may be sown with Grass seed or neatly turfed. The effect from the first will be pleasing to the eye, and will increase in beauty as time rolls on. The room which these trees and bushes take up on the land will be com- pensated for by the amount of soil which they will actually save by preventing the washouts which would otherwise occur. A systematic draining of the soil so as to turn all the water possible into one stream will both have a good effect on the soil and add to the beauty of the watercourse. Where the original ditch has been washed very deep and wide, temporary obsbructions, in the way of old logs and loose stones, can be thrown here and there across the bed so as to give the water a chance to back up and be held in a sort of reservoir, thus checking the severity of the freshets in winter, and preventing the extreme drying up in the summer time. A wooded stream is one of the greatest adjuncts to the natural beauty of a country place or farm, and is not only ornamental, but also extremely useful in checking the waste of the soil, and affording during the heat of the summer a cool and refreshing place for the cattle and horses to water and rest. — J. H. B., Battinwre, Mil., in Country Gentleman. The Cherry Birch (Betula lenta), a native cf America, I find grows liest in a rich, moist, light soil, in a free, open situation. Its usual height is 00 feet. The bark is black, and the leaves resemble those of the Cherry tree. The catkins are without peiluncles, and consist of simple imdivided scales. The bark and buds have an almond-like flavour, and the wood emits a fragrant odour. The sap is used in a similar manner to that of the common Birch. The Cherry liirch yields the timber known as " mountain mahogany," and the volatile oil, called "oil of winter green," is derived from its bark. B. Bhajapaltra, called the Indian Paper Birch, is a beautiful Indian species. B. acuminata ot Nepaul is another Asian species, with very taper-pointed, smooth leaves, and a beautiful, pendulous, oval shape. Among the best European White Birches is the variety pubescens, bearing leaves covered with beautiful white hairs, as well as 15. a. urticfefolia, i.e., nettle-leaved, a deeply-cut, serrated, and hairy variety, and a variegated kind of the same with leaves blotched with yellow. — J. H. M. THE GARDEN. Ill Ho. 847. SATURDAY, Feb. 11,1888. Vol. XXXIII. " This Is an Art WMch does mend Nature ; change It rather ; but The Art itself is Nature."— SAoA-e^peare. THE BLENHEIM OEANGE. The above Apple was raised by a shoemaker of the name of Kempster, of Old Woodstock. The first time I saw the original tree was soon after I went to reside at Woodstock, in 1847, and the last time was in company with the Kev. Mr. Clarke, who had then recently become curate of Wootton. Old Woodstock was then a hamlet of Wootton. Mr. Clarke resided in apartments at New Woodstock, and, as the adage has it, " birds of a feather soon flock together." Both of us had horti- culture on the brain, and, of course, the old tree was an object of great interest. So much so to J\lr. Clarke, that he had an illustration of it put in the pages of the Ilhistrafed Loudon News. I am sorry I cannot give you the exact date, or the year even of the issue, as I unfortunately lost the bundle of my extracts in coming here. I think it must have occurred about twenty years ago. Soon after I learned of poor Mr. Clarke's death I called on Grimmet (a basket-maker), the successor of Kempster, to try if I could purchase the old stump, in order to work it into some sort of memento of my late friend, and also as being a fragment of the famous Apple tree. I found, however, that Grimmet had grubbed it up and burnt it ! There were two healthy and almost grown up young trees which crowded out the old one, seedlings from it which Grimmet had raised himself, and, in consequence, the old tree, he said, " was in the way." Grimmet has long since joined the majority, and the seedlings just mentioned may also be destroyed, as great alterations have been made since I last saw the place. I brought ])lants with me here, however, which I grafted with scions taken from the seedling trees that Grimmet raised, and I must say that their removal from the garden which I rented at Old Woodstock does not suit them. Colonel Trevor Clarke, perhaps, could give some of its history, as it was through the endeavours of his brother that the tree was illustrated. The parish register books of Wootton would in all probability have a record of the death of Kempster, and certainly the time that Mr. Clarke was curate there. I scarcely now know of anyone thereabouts to whom I could send to obtain any further information respecting the subject. Robert Fenn. Siilhampstead, Reading. contrast to this is the 3d. per pound received by a grower here for very good samples. It is possible that Tomatoes at that price may pay to grow in large quantities, but the owner of a limited area of glass will natiirally wish to employ it more profitably. There must be something radically wrong in a system which only gives the grower one-third of the price paid by the consumer. Large as is the quantity of To- matoes consumed at the present time in the country, it would be infinitely greater were the producer and consumer brought nearer together. We cannot expect the working classes to buy To- matoes at the price of meat. At from 3d. to 6d. per pound they would be purchasers, and To- matoes ought to be sold at this price in the height of the season, and leave a fair profit to the retailer. It is a pity that a great portion of the population should be deprived of the enjoy- ment of a wholesome esculent through the ex- cessive greed of the middleman. — J. C. B. Tomatoes. — A lady friend, living in the neighbourhood of London, tells me that she could not buy English-grown Tomatoes last summer under Is. per pound, the lowest price for imported fruit being 8d. In remarkable FLORAL ARRANGEMENTS. If "Veronica's " remarks on bouquets in The Garden, February 4 (p. 85), are intended to apply to bouquets of the present time, I think his experience must be very limited. About ten years ago I should have been inclined to agree that some reform was necessary, but within the last few years I have had opportunities of seeing the productions of some of the best florists in London, and I finng enough to get hold of. sary in keeping the plants in the summer liberally supplied with water both at the root and overhead. If red spider once obtains a foothold it is ditficultto eradicate it, and I find soot- water a capital antidote to this pest. All the runners must be kept cut off closely, and by September the plants will be fine clumps, full of flower-buds. They should be carefully lifted with a good ball of soil, and potted in G, 7, or 8-inch pots according to their size, using good rich soil. Pot firmly, and after a good soaking of water they may be set in a cold frame or in the shade of a wall out of doors while the weather is mild, but as soon as the nights get frosty they should be re- moved to a shelf near the glass in any cool house. Keep them moist at the root and all decaying foliage picked off. Very fine blooms will then be produced in quantity. When the plants are in pots the flowers are less liable to get soiled as when they are in pits or frames. — J. G., Hants. The Blood Flower (Hicmanthusnatalensis).— This is a plant that once seen will be remembered, as there are few that have a character so striking and brilliant. It must, perhaps, be regarded as more curious than beautiful, but those who need a gorgeous display of scarlet at this season should add it to their collections. The thick, fleshy stem rises before the leaves and bears a brush of vivid scarlet filaments tipped with golden anthers, that, though stiflE, formal, and unlovely, give a rich har- mony of decided hues. These are intensified by the lustrous brown spottings seen at the base of the stem and also on the bulb. The Hsemanthuses are not hard to grow, and even when out of flower pos- sess some value by reason of the abundant orna- mental foliage. They may be, when going to rest, removed for the winter under any ordinary green- house stage and kept quite dry. I have seen them grown exceedingly well with French Pelargoniums, receiving similar treatment, and never failing to reward the cultivator. They can, however, be brought on easily in heat.— R. T. Eranthemum pulchellum.— This seems to be more popular than it was a few years ago, and no wonder, for the beautiful blue blossoms are unri- valled at this season, and the plant is also of easy culture. Plants for blooming at this season should be struck in the spring, at which time cuttings are easily obtained, and if put into light sandy soil and kept close, they root in a week or ten days. The cuttings should be made from the young and suc- culent shoots. If the plants are kept growing freely, and pinched from time to time, in order to encourage a sturdy habit of growth, they will be by the winter neat little bushes, every branch of Which is terminated by a spike of beautiful blue flowers. The latter, unfortunately, drop directly they are taken off, and on that account they are of no use in a cut state. Though the plants re- quire theheatof a stove during autumn and winter, they may in the summer be grown quite cool, as so treated they can be kept dwarfer. A moderate amount of manure water will help them, and during the growing season they must not be too much shaded, otherwise the plants will be weak and bare of foliage at the base. During hot and dry weather they are somewhat liable to the attacks of red spider which if not checked will cause a good deal of the foliage to drop. This Eranthemum is a very old inhabitant of our gardens, having been intro- duced during the last century, but it would be missed much more than many recent novelties.— H. P . Marie Louise Violets in pots.- This beauti- ful Violet is one of the very best for pot culture. To have good plants for potting in September, the runners should be planted out on rich soil in April, a partially shaded position being the best (at least in the southern counties), and great care is neces- Nepenthes.- Replying to Mr. Dixon's remarks upon these plants in Thk Gauden of Jan. 28 (p. 79), I have to thank him for the information respecting the earlier raising of these plants from seed. I had always been taught that all our earlier Pitcher plants were the result of propagation by cuttings from imported specimens, and I was not aware that seedlings had been raised in this country previous to the batch which I raised from Ceylon seeds. The altitude, of course, was a printer's error. There is, however, some little mystery respecting N. dis- tillatoria The plant that I allude to as having had charge of when a lad was the first and only species of the genus which I knew for a long time. The plant was fully 20 feet in length, and produced thick and leathery leaves, which were from 1 foot Feb. 11, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 117 to 18 inches long; pitchers pale green, some 4 inches or 5 inches long, with a ring of dull red just below the rim of the mouth ; the throat also had a tinge of the same colour, and the inside of the lid bronzy red. Now, this is certainly not the N. zeylanica which I raised from seeds; neither is it the plant known as N. phyllamphora, of which I have had under my charge some very large specimens up- wards of 25 feet long, and which bore hundreds of pitchers. In this plant the leaves are very thin in texture, and, together with the pitchers, of a uni- form pale apple green. The plant known to me as N. distillatoria I bad lost sight of for many years; but in the early part of last season I saw it again in a gentleman's garden at Streatham, and more recently I have seen the same plant in Mr. James's nursery at Norwood. I believe it is also to be found in the nurseries of Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea, and Mr. Williams at Holloway, although I have not myself seen it in those establishments. This is the plant which I knew originally as N. distillatoria, and under which name it is now in cultivation. It is certainly distinct from any other kind I know, but I am quite ignorant of the locality from whence it comes. — W. H. G. A CYCAS NURSERY. " If you should go to Leipsic, do not forget to pay a visit to Wagner's Cycas nursery," said a German friend. It so happened that I went to Leipsic a few months later, and, bearing in mind the advice given, I went to see the establishment in ques- tion. It was rightly named the Cycas nursery, for nearly all the houses were filled with Cycads in various stages of development, from the adult speci- men with trunk-like stem 10 feet or more in height, down to the miniature plant with a stem no larger than a hen's egg. One large house contained a number of plants, the like of which — taking quan- tity and size into consideration — would not be found in Europe. It was like walking in a miniature forest, the big Fern-like leaves meeting overhead on all sides. Readers of The Garden generally will wonder how it can pay a trade grower to keep such a quantity of large Cycads, seeing that so few of them are in demand. The fact is, that a large sum would be required to tempt the owner to part with them. Their existence is due to a curious custom peculiar to Saxony and, I believe, to some portions of Hanover. This consists in the mourners at funerals carrying in their hands Evergreens of some kind. Those who can afford to do so use Palm and Cycas leaves. Hence, there is a constant demand for such, and selling old specimens that produce large leaves that realise high prices would not be thought of for one moment by those who have them. In another large establishment I visited I went through a large house entirely filled with big speci- mens of Latania borbonica and Corypha australis, the two favourite Palms for this purpose. The owner told me that every leaf on them was worth about 4s. Independent of the utility of Cycas revoluta for the above-mentioned purpose, it is a very favourite room plant all over Germany. It would run Aspi- distra lurida very close indeed in the race for popu- larity, but it cannot be sold at such a cheap rate. Still, a Cycas can be had much cheaper in Germany than with us, as the demand being con- stant, a special culture of this plant has sprung up in Cuba, where, I am told, it is grown in large quantities in open fields. One large German nur- seryman imported a great number of small plants suitable for pots from 4i- inches to 8 inches in diameter, and they were packed in Latania seeds. When these Cycads come over they are more or less hollow at the base, many of them half way up the stem. This cavity is filled with crushed charcoal, and they are then put in pots that will just hold them, half filled with drainage, and are put in strong bottom-heat. I have treated hundreds in this way, and had but few losses. Great care has to be taken in watering, or the lower portion of the stem rots. In the Leipsic Nursery all the young plants were pushed along in bottom-heat, and I was told that by starting them early, giving a rest, and then putting them back in fermenting material, two growths are made in the course of the year. To obtain a good head of leaves in two seasons bottom- heat is necessary. Until the plants get a good root- hold, they ought not to be subjected to cool treat- ment. J. C. Byfleet. GREVILLEA PREISSI. The genus Grevillea contains several species that merit more extended cultivation, but the majority of them flower during the spring and summer months ; while this kind will bloom more or less continuously throughout the autumn and winter. This species is of rather free growth, and forms quite a bush, composed of long slender shoots clothed with much-divided leaves. The pink flowers are borne in closely-packed terminal clusters ; the bright red style also forms a prominent feature. In a structure that is free from damp the blossoms last a long time in beauty, and a succession is also maintained for a considerable period. The low, dense-growing G. ericifolia, with needle-like leaves and clusters of bright red blossoms, also commences to flower in the early days of the year, and, given a favourable situation, it will continue to bloom till midsummer. Two other species well worthy of cultivation are G. sulphurea, which shares with G.rosmarinifoliathe reputation of being the hardiest member of the genus, and G. sulphurea, a dense, much-branched bush with narrow-pointed leaves, and during the summer months the branches are clothed with sulphur-coloured blossoms. Individu- ally they are not showy, but the profusion in which they are borne compensates for this, and renders the plant when in full flower very attractive. In the south and west of England this will survive many winters in the open ground ; indeed, treated as a wall plant around London it is seldom injured. G. rosmarinifolia, mentioned above as one of the hardiest species, is a dense-growing shrub that pro- duces its flowers in closely-packed clusters at the end of every shoot. The flowers are of a reddish purple colour, and last a long time in beauty. Under greenhouse treatment this Grevillea will commence to flower at the end of March or beginning of April, but in the open ground it is, of course, later. G. punicea, a bright red-flowered species, is a very de- sirable kind, but it is scarce and also more particu- lar in its requirements than the others. In all the above the flowers form the most conspicuous fea- ture, but the species that is met with by far the most frequently of any (G. robusta) is grown only for the sake of its foliage, for I am not aware of its having flowered in this country. It is commonly used in sub-tropical gardening, and is also brought into Covent Garden Market in considerable numbers during the summer. The short space of time in which this plant can be grown into an efliective specimen and the elegant character of its foliage are its great recommendations. Seeds of this are imported in considerable quantities, and to obtain good results they should be sown as soon as re- ceived. T. Spot on the leaves of Pelargoniums.— I can well remember when growers of Pelargoniums for exhibition used to be troubled with what they called " spot " upon the leaves of these plants. This appeared in spring, the leaves being much disfigured by the breaking out of brown spots, which, as a matter of course, afEected the appearance of the plants \ipon the exhibition stage. Last year my attention was called to some plants affected in the same way, and I think the real cause was misman- agement. I do not think brown spot is so com- mon as it was thirty years ago, and I attribute its decline to some extent by the fact that we now grow Pelargoniums of a more robust habit. It was then that our florists were engaged in deepening the colours of the flowers, and striving for greater stoutness in the petals and better form also, consti- tutional vigour of habit scarcely receiving the atten- tion it deserved. Some of the principal growers of that day were of opinion that one main cause of the spot was traceable to the habit of standing the plants out in the open in order to ripen the foliage before they were cut down, and allowing the soil about the roots to become thoroughly sod- dened by rain when the plants were comparatively at rest. One effect was that when the plants were cut down the sap would exude to such an extent that the specimens literally bled to death. If the plants become thoroughly soddened by being placed in the open, it is best to allow them to dry off some- what before cutting them back, and this can be done by laying them on their sides for a time. One well-known cultivator states that Pelargoniums cannot be too dry when they are cut down. The practice of placing the plants out in the open after they are cut do^vn also encourages spot. It is much the best plan to place them in a cold green- house, or pit, until they begin to start into growth, and then they can be repotted and kept close for a time before being put in a light and airy part of the greenhouse. — R. D. CAMELLIA BUDS DROPPING. I CANNOT agree with all Mr. Record's remarks on the above subject in The Garden, Jan. 28 (p. 80). As he justly says at the conclusion of his note, de- ficiency of root-action, sour soil and bad drainage, too much or too little water and a high moist tem- perature may one or all account for bud-dropping ; but his main point, that this failure may also be attributed to keeping the plants indoors all through the summer months, is a theory, in my opinion, that cannot be proved by general experience. I fancy his success with the plants that had hitherto failed was more owing to judicious watering than to turning them outside. For if the latter treatment were to be accepted as indispensable, how can it be reconciled with the fact that there are hundreds of Camellias about the country planted out in beds, and which have to remain there all the year through? In our case the plants have probably been established in their present quarters nearly eighty years, and there is no bud-dropping. At least in my six years' experience of them those that have failed might be counted annually on the fingers. Nor has the house in which they are growing the merit of being well ventilated, as it is a span-roofed one with a very flat pitch. It has high side-lights, which all come down, but which are of little service as far as the top of the house is concerned, the in- ability to open at the apex of the house naturally preventing a free circulation of air. Three essential points in the cultivation of the Camellia, whether in pots or in beds, that are likely to tend to the proper development and preservation of buds are suitable soil and good drainage, judicious watering, and a dry, equable temperature with tho- rough exposure at all times to the sun. In the case of the plants here, the drainage is so good that we are enabled to give a thorough soaking that pene- trates to all parts of the bed ; this is done once in ten days during summer, and from three weeks to a month in autumn and winter. Shade of any kind I think is a great mistake, as it has a tendency to make the foliage soft and tender and very suscep- tible to the sun's rays. Sufficient care can always be exercised with the ventilation, and this, with a cool, dry, equable temperature, is a sure safeguard against scalding. I may mention that there is every prospect of a capital display of bloom, all the va- rieties being well set with buds. Especially notice- able is a very large plant of an old variety that I find figured and described in Mrs. Loudon's green- house plants as C. japonica pomponia. This is a capital variety for cutting; it is not so stiff and formal as many of the newer sorts, and is most serviceable at this season for specimen glasses, &c. All varieties are considerably later than usual, a fact I find it rather diflicult to account for, as the hot, dry summer of 1887 should have tended to the earlier development of the buds. It i.s perhaps owing to the lengthened flowering season of last year, causing the pruning and thinning out to te deferred, and the corresponding lateness of growth which succeeds the annual top-dressing of cow manure which the plants receive after the pruning and tying are finished.— E. Burrell, Claremont. Under this heading, Mr. Record gives us in The Garden, Jan. 28 (p. 80), his mode of treating Camellias to prevent them from dropping their buds. The point brought forward most promi- nently is the fact of his plants having been placed 118 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. out of doors for a while after having made their growth, and when so treated bud-dropping ceased, though it re-asserted itself on four plants which were placed in a house from which they could not be moved. The bud-dropping of Camellias is a cause of frequent complaint, and a discussion as to the best means of preventing it will be useful. That it can be prevented without going to the labour of placing plants out of doors is certain, and I need only point to the grand plants which are growing in the long corridor at the Fulham Road end of Veitch's nursery at Chelsea in proof of this. These plants are a grand sight either in or out of bloom, and do not appear to suffer from bud-drop- ping or any of the other ills to which Camellias are subject. A smaller group of plants, but equally healthy, used to be grown some twelve years ago in a lofty old greenhouse at Wynyard Park, Durham. These were in tubs, and were never taken out of doors. Daring the three seasons I knew them I saw no bud- dropping, though they set great num- bers of buds which were only very slightly thinned, as all the flowers were required for London. To meet the strain put upon them they were top- dressed annually and had large supplies of manure water, while clear soot-water was also frequently given. The soil used was mostly good fibrous loam. Many object to using a large proportion of loam for Camellias on the ground that it has a tendency to make the foliage yellow, but a plentiful supply of soot-water will counteract such a tendency, pro- vided the loam has plenty of fibre. Where the plants are large and labour is scarce the extra work of getting them in and out will be a serious matter, and one to be avoided if possible. If they can be equally well grown in the conservatory, what better background could there be in a large house to set off the flowering plants than the dark, glossy foliage of a healthy lot of Camellias ? I agree with Jlr. Record that bud-dropping is caused in many ways, and foremost I should place neglect in watering. A sudden check is also bad for them, and this they might easily get by being placed out of doors in full sun in an arid atmo- sphere, after being grown in a more humid one. No place would seem to give them the " even tem- perature " Mr. Record thinks requisite better than a conservatory which is managed in the best possible way to lengthen the blooming season of the flower- ing plants it contains. — John C. Tallack, Lirer- mere Parh, HiiffoVt. Thyrsacanthtis rntilans. — This stove plant, which is now commencing to flower, is by no means a novelty, yet it is but little grown, notwithstanding its highly ornamental qualities. It is a free-grow- ing subject that quickly runs up to a considerable height ; indeed, it is seen to the greatest advantage when it has a stem a yard or more high. The flowers are tubular in shape and of a bright crim- son colour, while they are borne in long drooping panicles. When the plant is, say, 4 feet high and devoid of foliage towards its lower part, the flowers are especially noticeable. It is easily propagated and grown, for cuttings of the young growing shoots strike readily enough during the spring months, and may then be pushed on quickly. Large speci- mens that flower every year may be grown on season after season and yield a greater display of blossoms than young plants. — T. Iiibonia floribunda.— For continuous bloom- ing during the dull winter months this has but few equals, as when the plants are favourably situated the brightly-coloured flowers will be produced for a long time, and that when blossoms of any kind are scarce. The .same treatment as that accorded to Bouvardias that are intended for winter blooming will suit the Libonia perfectly. About this season a few old plants that have done blooming may be placed in a little additional heat, when plenty of cuttings will soon be produced. The.se when long enough may be taken off and inserted just the same as Fuchsias, Bouvardias, and such things usually are. They will not take long to strike in a close case, when they must be hardened off and as soon as possible potted. After this the young plants must be pinched occasionally to encourage a bushy habit, and shifted into larger pots when required. A cold frame is the best place for them during the summer, and plenty of air must be given throughout that season to cause the plants to assume a short, sturdy habit. As they are somewhat liable to the attacks of red spider, the plants should be fre- quently syringed at that season to keep these pests in check. Towards autumn, as the pots get full of roots, occasional doses of liquid manure will be of service ; and a still more particular item is that the plants should be occasionally watered with soot- water, as this will cause the foliage to acquire (and, what is more, retgin) a healthy green tint, which the Libonia does not always wear. The yellowish tinge of the foliage often detracts greatly from otherwise perfect specimens. — T. DAPHNE INDICA. In answer to " W. G. M,," it is very remarkable that this plant should be so seldom seen in our green- houses, whilst its flowers yield perhaps the most grateful odour of any knovm plant. It is usually said to be troublesome to grow, but I do not think it is at all difficult to manage ; indeed, I am inclined to believe the plants as a rule are more often killed by being too frequently repotted ; the consequence of which is that the roots are overburdened with soil, and that too in a loose condition, so that the roots become soddened and die. When this happens, the tops naturally soon decay. The roots require to be somewhat confined, and the soil should be made as firm about them as possible. I was led to believe in this system of growing Daphnes from observing some large plants which were under my care in an old-fashioned orangery, on one side of which the lights which opened as doors reached the ground, but on the other side the lights were fixtures, and were supported on a wall about (5 feet high; this wall, which was about U) feet or CO feet long, was entirely covered by six plants of Daphne, which flowered regularly and most profusely. They were cut so hard every year, that I never saw much difference in their size during the three years they were under my charge. These plants were in a narrow border covered with York flagstone, which formed a part of the walk on that side of the house, a half circular cavity round the stem of each plant, into which water was poured in abundance, being left. These Daphnes had originally been planted in a well-drained border consisting of two parts rich loam, one part peat, and half a part of sharp sand. The soil was allowed to settle, and then rammed firmly after the plants were in posi- tion. I saw these Daphnes from time to time for several years after I left the place, and they were growing vigorously and produced enormous crops of flowers, although the soil had never been disturbed. I have never seen either finer plants or a greater quantity of flowers in any private garden, and I would therefore advise you to use compara- tively small pots and to make the soil very firm. The house in which the above-named plants were growing was kept very cool, their companions being Camellias planted out, large Oranges in tubs, clim- bers, such as Kennedyas, Hardenbergias, Banksian Roses, and the finest plants of Clianthus puniceus that I have ever seen. This last was planted in the same border as the Daphnes. W. H. G. SHORT NOTES.— STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. Acacia Irng-iflora mucronata. — A pl.int under this name is flowering in the temperate hon.se at Kew, and is noticcalile for the beautiful feathery ch.aracter of its leafage, from which tlic pule lemnn globnlxr flower heads stand f>ut clearly. It is nut, so showy as A. dealbata, now seen every- where, but it has many ^ood points. Erici. roelanthera —Though far less beautiful than K. hyomulis, th's is a most dcsiraljlc Heath, a=t 1ho ^<]ants arc j.t the present time a ni.ss of small pinky white floweis that are conspicuous t y reason of the almost black centre. Hardly a bit of leaf can be seen for the jirofusion of flowers. There are several spccim^.n^ at Kew, and they have been quite a feature for weeks past. The Spanieta. Jasmine (Jasminum grandiflo- rum). As in the case of several members of the genus, the flowers of this Jasmine are highly fra- grant, equal almost to that of the popular Daphne indica. It is of a loose habit of growth, though it can be flowered in the shape of bushy specimens in pots. The foliage is a good deal like that of the common Jasmine, but it is deeply tinted and ever- green,'while the large white blossoms are slightly tinged with red on the outside. It is a native of the Himalayas, and is commonly cultivated through- out the Tropics, as its deliciously fragrant blossoms are much appreciated. Cuttings of the young shoots, after they have lost a little of their succu- lent character, will strike readily in the spring, and in the temperature of a warm greenhouse will grow rapidly ; such a structure is indeed necessary in order to flower them well. — H. P. Azalea amcesa. — This is the first of the Azaleas to flower, and this character, combined with the neat habit of growth, renders it a very useful sub- ject; for greenhouse decoration during winter. It may be easily forced, and, so treated, may be had in bloom before Christmas. The flowers last a good while in perfection, and owing to their neatness and long-lasting qualities are very useful for making sprays, button-holes, and such purposes. This Azalea is quite hardy, and is well adapted for edg- ing a Rhododendron bed, as the soil and situation suit it perfectly. There have been many hybrids raised by crossing this with the different garden varieties of the Indian Azalea, the progeny being in most cases about mid-way between the two. Mr. Carmichael was, I believe, the first to cross them, but since then others have followed in his footsteps. One of the prettiest of these hybrids is still Mrs. Carmichael, the blooms of which are of a rich ma- genta colour and borne in great profusion. — T. WORK IN PLANT HOUSES. Grafting Camellias. — Large plants of inferior varieties of Camellia are often retained, though they are of little use. These specimens should be cut down and grafted with better kinds and they will quickly make new heads. Cleft-grafting is the best for those specimens that have attained a medium or large size, heading the plants down to within 9 in. or 10 in. of the collar. Where work of this kind has to be done no time should now be lost in heading down, as if the tops are removed later on the stools will bleed so much as to interfere with the taking of the grafts. Plants that have stems from 1 J inches to Ij inches in diameter will take four scions, and all that is necessary is to tie round with bast so as to keep the scions in their places, and cover over with ordinary grafting clay. Stand the newly-grafted plants in a genial growing tempera- ture, such as a vinery that happens to be at work, or in any house or pit where the heat is sufficient for Camellias that are making their growth. Keep the soil somewhat dry, as, in common with other plants when cut down, the roots are not in a state to bear the soil being wet. Later on, when the grafts have begun to grow freely, the points should be taken out so as to induce them to branch. Planting out Camellias.— Where Camellias are to be planted out either in beds or in borders for covering walls, this had better be done at once, even if the plants have not finished blooming, as the growth they are expected to make during the coming season is of more consequence than the flowers. The young rootlets of Camellias are excep- tionally brittle, so that they break with the least disturbance. This being the case, they are much more liable to get injured than those of most other things. On this account I do not approve of the roots being opened out from the balls in the way that usually is practised with most plants when planted out. To ensure the water passing through the balls, it is well to pierce them freely with a piece of strong wire. In addition to this the soil all round the balls mu.st be made quite firm, raising it about an inch higher than the surface, so as to form a basin. Previous to Camellias being p'anted out they should be well cleansed from any insects with which they may happen to be affected. The beds or bordersmust be well-drained and made deep in proporiion to the size of the balls of the plants. Good turfy loam with enough sand added to keep it porous is the best material to grow Camellias in, though the plants grow to a larger tize and have deeper coloured leaves when they are Feb. 11, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 119 grown in peat, but they do not usually flower so freely. Kerns. — Ferns of all kinds do not like to be dis- turbed at the roots"after they have commenced to grow. It is better to carry out the potting of such as may require additional root-room before they commence to grow. This applies both to the tree kinds and to the dwarfer sorts. Ferns are less par- ticular in the matter of soil than most things ; either peat or loam will answer for them, provided there is enough material added to keep the soil per- manently open, so as to admit of the large amount of water the roots require passing freely through it. Though moisture-loving plants, they cannot stand a stagnant soil, and, therefore, the compost should be well prepared. In addition to sand, the soil should contain about one-sixth of broken crooks, charcoal, or coal cinders — any of these will answer. The colour of the fronds of most Ferns attains a deeper shade of green when the plants are grown in peat than when loam is used, but in the case of some kinds that are chiefly grown for cutting, such as Adiantum cuneatum, the pale yellowish green tint is now much preferred to the dark green. Use the soil in a more or less lumpy state, according to the size of the plants. One mistake that is often made in growing Ferns is in giving them too much root-room. Even the largest of the tree species will do with pots or tubs not more than half the size they are often put in. The idea that used to pre- vail of Ferns not liking manure water is now proved to be altogether wrong, as, when reasonable care is taken that it is not used too strong, it may be given at short intervals all through the growing season. By its use the plants may be kept in a vigorous, thriving condition, with much less pot-room than would otherwise be necessary. There is one class of Ferns that should not be kept in pots of too small a size — that is those with creeping rhizomes, such as the Gleichenias and Davallias, which, when wanted of large size, must not be pinched for space, as if their creeping stems have not enough surface to push their roots into, they are not only liable to get injured, but also fail to thrive as they should. The Gleichenias especially suffer in this way if the pots or tubs they occupy are not large enough, as when most of the extremities of the rhizomes perish for want of space to root in, the other portions, as a rule, break very weakly. After Gleichenias get as large as they are required, it is best to divide the specimens into pieces, being careful not to break them up too small, as the larger the pieces are left the less check they receive. Gleichenias are shallow- rooting plants, and even when the specimens get large they do not require the soil to be deeper than 6 inches or 8 inches ; consequently the pots should be filled with drainage material so as not to allow a greater depth than this. The Davallias strike their roots less deeply than most species, and, therefore, they should also have less depth of soil. Ferns that produce a number of crowns, like Adiantum cunea- tum, A. gracillimum, and others of like character that can be increased by division should, when stock is to be raised in this way, be divided before the growth begins to move. In break- ing up old plants it is better to divide them into small pieces than large ones, as the former generally grow away more freely than the latter. After repotting or division. Ferns should in all cases be kept more moist at the roots than in the case of most other plants. A few degrees more warmth should also be given them so as to start them into growth, but with the exception of the Gj mnogrammas and a few other kinds that do not succeed with cool treatment it is much better to give Ferns less heat than used to be considered necessary. Most kinds do better with a night temperature of about 50° in autumn and winter, with a slight rise in the daytime, than when kept hotter; (50° in the night in summer is quite enough. Another mistake commonly made is the use of too much atmospheric moisture and the absence of suflicient light, particularly when the fronds are required for cutting. Under the conditions named the plants make larger and deeper-coloured fronds, but when cut, even if kept in water, they do not last half the time that they would do if the plants had been subjected to plenty of light and more air than is frequently given them. This points to the advisability of not using more shade than is absolutely necessary all through the spring and summer. The pots must always be well drained ; some sort of fibrous material, such as Sphag- num or the roots of the Grasses that the soil contains, should be placed over the crocks or cinders to keep the soil from getting washed down amongst them. Tuberoses. — To have a succession of these flowers it is necessary to pot the roots at different times, for, although a good deal may be done by pushing the plants on in heat or by retarding them, still it is better to vary the time of potting. More ; roots may now be potted to succeed the earliest. | It is not advisable to use pots much larger than will ; suffice to hold the bulbs when put two or three together. See that the soil is not too wet, as any excess of moisture should be guarded against until root fibres are formed. Stand the pots on a slightly moist bottom, so that little water will be required until growth commences. As soon as the earlier potted bulbs have made a fair quantity of roots they may be put in heat. Let them have a place where they will get plenty of light, so as to prevent the heads from getting drawn up weakly. Give water freely as soon as the plants are in full growth. FREESIA8. — More plants may be put in heat to succeed those that were started some time since. with I would point to the one at Kew, which I think is in the intermediate house. I have two distinct varieties ; one has an ovate, glaucous leaf, and the other distinctly acuminate, while the growth is freer, and both are supplied by nurserymen under similar names. The flowers of the acuminate form are perfect in perfume, but look as it one flower had been flatly placed into the lobe of the other. The Kew plant, of which I possess a specimen, is totally different in flower; the bud is globose and opens with fuUy incurved fleshy petals. — William SOPEE. Flower Garden. IRIS TINGITANA. The flower of this species figured in the Botanical il/((;/(Ci)ii' came, I believe, from a batch of bulbs collected by Mr. G. Maw and Mr. Horace White from a locality on the road leading from Tangiers to Tetuan. Mr. IMaw told me that even in their native home the plants were not flowering freely, and the cultivated bulbs have, according to my experience, been also shy bloomers. Moreover, the flowers which have appeared have been very much alike in colour, diflering very slightly from tlie one figured in the Botanical Magazine. Chinese PsEonies in howl. These plants come on quickly in a medium tempera- ture. The flowers are more enduring when they are not hurried. Water freely when top growth is active, and give all the light possible. T. B. CHINESE PEONIES. Latt spring Capt. Jekyll, brother ot Miss G. Jekyll, very kindly sent me a number of bulbs gathered in a locality near Tangiers, as far as I can make out, but diflerent from the one visited by Mr. Maw. Oapt. Jekyll told me that the plants were blooming very freely, and that the floweis varied very much in colour. I have now one of Capt. Jekyll's plants flowering in a cool greenhouse. It has all the characters of I. tingi- tana,but dift'ers widely in colour from all Mr. Maw's plants which have yet flowered. The outer perianth seg- ments (falls) are of a delicate pale yellow colour, with a conspicuous orange signal, while the inner seg- ments (standards) and styles are of a light lavender hue. When I say that these colours obtain in a flower more than twice as large as and more graceful, less stiff in outline than the common so-called Spanish Iris (I. Xiphion), the reader wHl understand that I. tingitana is not to be despised. Miss Jekyll has, I believe, in her possession bulbs of a pure white form, and it seems to me probable that I. tingitana will be found to vary as much as I. Xiphion. It is worthy of the attention of cultivators. In my bleak garden I. tingitana lives, but has not yet flowered in the open ; it thrives and these lowers sparsely in a cold frame. In a pot in a White, delicate pink, tosj and crimson, uncc^ , - -j. - j. • j r j. - n, grand flowers need no addition to make a glo- greenhouse it seems, to judge from two or thre rious table bouquet, and in a glass bowl that jears^experience, to be exceedingly happ^ ; it holds plenty of water they last better than then flowers about the same time it does in its almo;tany other summer flower, and they havea ^atjve home. It adapts itself to pot treatment pleasant smell, something between that of a Tulip ^^t*"' tl'^^ ^"y °^^'''' ^'^1^°"'^ ^^'^■ and a Rose, that is not too strong in a room. It In the open ground, or when planted out in a is strange to see how many so-called good gar- cold frame, it should have heavy, stift' soil, and dens there are where these grand flowers are"not even in a pot the soil should not be too light. It grown— indispensable where cut flowers of bold is quite a mistake to suppose that all bulbous type are wanted and of the highest value as Irises revel in pure sand. I need hardly add garden plants. Jasminum Sambac fl.-pl. — I should be much indebted to any correspondent if he would give me some information as to Jasminum Sambac flore- pleno. With me it has proved disappointing. I have tried it in every soil and position. It does neither in a hot nor intermediate house. that I dry and roast my plants of it as much as possible in summer. M. Foster. Winter Stocks. — It is pleasant to be able to report at the end of January that Brompton and Queen Stocks — the only kinds which will endure ordinary winters outside — are comparatively un- it is not injured, and looking remarkably well. Such a good shy flowering, but it simply refuses to make growth, report could not have been made during several past As a type of the plant which I desire to succeed , winters, and, therefore, although we are a long way 120 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. from being out of the wood, yet there is some reason to hope that for once our eyes in due time will be gladdened with a good show of one of the greatest favourites of our gardens. Plants of Brompton Stocks in diverse stages of growth, from big ones a foot high to small ones dibbled out late, all look thriving. Still, it is obvious that if any plants be injured, it will be the more robust ones, and these alone give to us those superb spikes of double flowers which no other garden plant can possibly rival. The sorts here, viz.. Giant Scarlet and White Brompton, are growing on a south border. The Qaeen Stocks are mostly found in the market and cottage gardens, where their dense branching habit render them so useful for furnishing cut flowers. Intermediate Stocks in pots or dibbled out in frames have stood remarkably well ; indeed, it is long since we have had a winter which, so far, has left biennials looking so healthy. Hope for a further spell of immunity is buoyed up by the general aspect of the winter, which seems disposed to be through- out fairly mild and dry. — A. D. NOTES ON HAEDY PLANTS. Early bulbous Iris (I. reticulata). — If you plant this bulbous species and leave it alone, it will pro- bably not flower after the first season until the middle of March. At any rate, this is my experi- ence in the Yorkshire climate. By proper treat- ment, however, you may get flowers nearly two months earlier. Take up the bulbs in early autumn, and after they have become hardened so that the outer netted tunics come off easily, plant them in new soil in an open or sunny place. If this is done with bulbs taken from the old and late clumps, the flowers will appear in January and early February. Saxifraga Burseriana major. — This is now (.Jan. 11) in flower, though many plants in the open ground are lifted quite out of the soil by the action of frost and wet. We seem to be bavint;- similar weather to that which proved so trying to open-air plants last winter — wet and frost, a partial thaw, and then more wet. Short-rooted plants, especially alpines, are frequently lifted out of their places, even when they have made a summer's growth there, by this kind of weather. The worst efllects, however, are to be seen among alpines in pots when plunged and half-plunged in sand or ashes. Dur- ing a thaw, owing to the soil being saturated with moisture, the water remains about the crowns of the plants, so that in such cases as the splitting of the pots no better thing could have happened. To obviate this evil, I have just given directions for some pots to be made with deep cuts all round, from the rim to half their depth. I hope by this to avoid pot-splitting and lodgment of wet about the crowns of the plants. In the case of phmged plants, I also aUow more liberty to roots which may run into the sand. Large blue Hepatica (H. angulosa). — Spring flowers are appearing. Some flowers, no matter how unfavourable the season, will come nearly true to time, and this Hepatica is one of them. It is quite three weeks earlier than the triloba sorts, and the flowers are about twice the size. There is a distinct and larger form of angulosa which has flowers of a pale blue or mauve colour, and in si2e and shape they remind one of those of Ane- mone stellata. Both the young and old leaves are greyish compared with the better-known form, and considerably larger. Here it proves the earlier of the two, for 1 had a few flowers at Christmas. Houtan PsBOny. — In order to retard the de- velopment of the buds, I am trying root-pruning As yet, however, the buds are plump and promising, though evidently not so forward as those on plants not operated on. The root-pruning was done with a spade last autumn. Showy Lady's Slipper (Cypripedium specta- bile). — This is a trying time for the young roots No matter wliat the quality of the soil may be, the points of the young roots will appear, and often be seen in winter bristling above the surface. I have found it a good plan to mulch with old Moss or Moss litter in the autumn. Primula AUioni.— Mr. Potter (p. 53) empha- sises his statement that this pretty alpine is not diflicult to grow, but his concluding words, "It is better not to expose it to too much wet in winter," convey to my mind a great difliculty — viz., that of giving dry, but airy conditions to a hardy plant in our muggy climate. I ask those who have experience in the culture of the rarer alpines if they do not find this to be precisely the most difficult condition to battle with, especially when seeking to accommo- date subjects with small, closely-compacted, and glandular-haired leaves ? Would Mr. Potter advise us to plant such things as are usually got from the trade on the open rookwork without or with a glass to throw off wet ? Does he mainly grow his stock in frames or in the open air ? Because if not the latter, I do not see that his statement is fully borne out by his practice. If we may not grow alpines on rockeries fully exposed without their dying off year after year, and under varied forms of treatment, such plants must be considered difficult to grow. I have followed the hints given by Messrs. Backhouse and Son, but as yet I can only say I just manage to keep my plants alive. True, I keep them out of doors ; but if they will not do there, with a little help in the way of shelter from a pane of glass, they cannot be called hardy. Many other growers have failed with this Primula, and I fancy that Mr. Potter is aware of this. If he has recently found out how to keep it vigorous in the open, I am sure many would be glad to know how he treats it. WuodriUe, Kirltstall. J. WOOD. CHRISTMAS ROSES. Simultaneously, January 28, 1888, in The Gar- den (p. 74) and in The iTardcners' Chronicle (p. 77) we have notices of these favourite flowers. In the latter by Mr. Brockbank, in the former by Mr. Burbidge. Mr. Burbidge has come to a conclusion which, valuing his opinion as I do, I trust he will reconsider. It is this : " We must once for all give up the pink stigmas as a charac- ter for distinguishing Christmas Roses."' Why ? Because " even St. Brigid's variety has pink stigmas sometimes, although no red appears in leaf or flower-stalk. " This is undoubtedly true ; it is also true, more or less frequently, in Mr. Brockbank's, in Morrison's, and so in the Riverston, the Glasnevin, and in any number of garden crosses, as well as in the type of reds (maxi)nus). This is not anew discovery, though it has only gradually developed itself. We know so much now, mainly I must say through the indefatigable researches made by Mr. Brock- bank, that we appear to ourselves as if we had been familiar with it all along. We have, how- ever, only to look back a very short way in the volumes of The Garden to discover our ignor- ance. H. niger maximus was then almost un- known in one part of England, and niger type as little known in the other; and amongst those wlio took most interest in the question, old authorities were either unknown or for- gotten, and it required some assurance in any- one to determine the position of H. n. maxinuis, whether it shcjuld rank as a wild plant, or as a garden variety. It was Mr. Bmckbank to whom we were principally indebted for certain infor- mation on this point; it was through him also that we became acquainted with the Brockhurst variety. Thus such an impetus was given to the whole subject, that within a short time other competitors started into notice from various parts of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and 1 do not suppcwe that we have yet heard the last of them. 1 hope ncjt ; the more the better, so long as minute dift'erence.s are not insisted upon. My apology for asking Mr. Burbidge to reconsider his conclusion is that I think his data are insuflicient. In the article to which I have alluded Mr. Brockbank recalls attention to what I believe is perfectly correct, that, broadly speaking, H. niger type is from North Germany ; niger major in many varieties from the Austrian Tyrol ; and niger maximus and angustifolius from the soiithern side of the Alps, both in Austria and Italy. As these three approximate to each other in habitat, so they do also in habit ; but what I present to Mr. Burbidge's consideration is that in the northern wild speci- mens the red stigmata are absent; in the southern wild specimens, maximus and angustifolius, the red stigmata are existent, either apparent or latent ; generally apparent in maximus, occa- sionally showing themselves, like a black lamb in a white flock, in angustifolius. If this be a fact, as 1 believe it to be, it cannot be contro- verted by the presence of red stigmata in River- ston, Glasnevin, St. Brigid, &c., of whose origin we are ignorant, and in garden varieties promiscuously raised, but rather really to dis- prove it, wild specimens of maximus and an- gustifolius must be found with stigmata which never become red, and wild nigers typical, or niger majors which do so. But we are not left to draw our distinction between the two divi- sions by colour of pistils alone ; a practised eye like Mr. Burbidge's cannot but detect such peculiarities of leaf and stem in the one famUy as would lead him to expect the existence of the red stigmata ; whereas these do not present themselves in the leaves and stems, whether green or spotted, in the niger and niger major section true. — T. H. Archer-Hind, ^'okWiDctoii. I note the resumption of a discussion which I had thought settled, viz., whether theremovalortrans- planting of these plants checks their blooming the next, or even for several following years. My ex- perience, which has been considerable, entirely co- incides with that of "J. C. C," that removal, as a rule, does check their blooming. Hence, I gave the advice a year or more ago in Tub Garden to neither disturb nor transplant Christmas Roses, un- less compelled for material for forcing or purposes of propagation. A little more experience but con- firms the soundness of the advice. My impression is that considerable misunderstand- ing has arisen in regard to this matter by the dif- ferent meanings attached to the simple phrase " bloom." Few plants vary more widely in the quality or quantity of their flowers than Christmas Roses. In one garden you will find each patch or tuft carpeted with a struggling phalanx of white blos- soms too numerous to unfold in the given space ; or it may be the patch has run out into a huge mass, looking in the distance like a bed of snow on the green Grass. In not a few other gardens the Christ- mas Roses have a few leaves mixed rather than closely carpeted with six, eight, or perhaps a dozen flowers. Not seldom these are deficient in size and lack vigour, stature, and quality. Of course, all this is written of the typical species, H. niger, still by far the best for general cultivation. But let no dis- putant side off from the matter in hand on this mere difference of opinion, which is introduced here only to show that these contrasts occur in the same species — that they are mostly the result of soil, climate, culture is obvious. And again and again I have found paucity of bloom to follow disturbance, not only among Christmas Roses, but Lilies and other plants. I freely admit there may be a good deal in the mode of removal and in the richness or attractiveness, or otherwise, of their new root-runs. I also agree in the main with Mr. Tallack's protest against lifting Christmas Roses or other plants with balls. The advantages of these removals en miixse are greatly exaggerated, while the wounds, bruises, breakages are unseen and unsuspected. On the other hand, I can see no advantage, but the reverse, in washing the roots, as recommended by this writer, unless where, indeed, the plants have been grown in a foul or completely exhausted bed. But I also agree with Mr. Tallack that the new place for Christmas Roses, or other plants, should be made suitable for them. Because such plants are hardy, not a few seem to think that any soil, site, Of treatment is good enough for them. Feb. 11, 1888.J THE GARDEN. 121 This is altogether a mistake. No plants respond more generously to liberal treatment than Christ- mas Roses. I only differ from Mr. Tallack in affirming that, as a rule, they do not re- cover quickly after removal. Nothing could ex- ceed the profusion and quality of the blossoms on Christmas Roses this January that were planted three years since. But that is long to wait. And it is pleasing to find that Mr. Tallack, through divi- sion and washing of the roots, has succeeded so well in reaping an immediate harvest of bloom. I also doubt whether January, or even February, is not a month or more too early for the division of Christmas Roses, and would still counsel aU readers of The Garden to leave these charming plants alone unless forced to increase the stock. Even under such circumstances let no one lift more than half their Christmas Roses in any one year, and thus the partial or complete failure of blooms will be the less missed. HoKTUS. Annnal Sunflowers. — The number of varieties of these is rapidly increasing, and the difficulty soon will be to know which are most worthy of culture. There are, however, two that for some time are not likely to be discarded, viz., the Miniature and the Grand Double. The first named has flowers about the size of those of Coreopsis grandifiora, forms compact bushes about 4 feet high, and blooms all the summer and autumn. For the supply of yellow flowers for cutting, I know of nothing like it. Grand Double is apparently a selection from H. flstulosus, and is a fine variety when it can be had true. It has, however, a great tendency to variation and the best flowers are so double that very few seeds can be got from them. It is the perfection of a double Sunflower. Unifiorus is the Sunflower for those who want something big. It concentrates its energies on the production of one immense flower, of which truth must be told it has but size to recom- mend it. There is about a yard of disc with a fringe of very short petals, so that it is quite destitute of elegance. Its seed-bearing powers are, however, enormous, and those who require a quan- tity of Sunflower seeds will find this variety suit their purpose. A kind that I much like is Lady Leighton. It grows about G feet in height, is much branched at the top, and the flowers, of a clear light yellow, are elegant in form. It is a dis- tinct variety, and suitable for small gardens. There is really something very noble in the Sunflower when it is grown under the most favourable condi- tions. I had some plants last year more than 10 feet high, and which were clothed with good foliage to within a foot or 2 feet of the soil. They were put out early, and the soil was well manured. — J. C. 1'.. Mimulu^es — A note concerning the autumn sowing of Mimulus seed was sent to The Garden a month or two since and published. Since then the seedlings, so tiny when that note was written, and thick in the seed pans, have been dibbled out into a bed of soil in the greenhouse, where, pro- tected on frosty nights with two or three news- papers, they have become so strong that the largest have been potted into :!-inch pots, and are fast getting established. Under ordinary conditions of sowing the seed would not have been thus used until the middle or end of February, but here I have now many plants rapidly filling the pots with roots, and which will be in bloom almost by the time the spring-sown plants would be ready to dibble out. So great is the gain in time thus found to result from autumn-sowing that it can be highly recommended. Mimulnses are fairly hardy ; even plants out in the open ground which have started into growth during the winter, 1 ob- serve, are uninjured. It is, therefore, easy to pro- tect the plants if a frame is at disposal. Then the growth from autumn-raised plants is so much finer, and, of course, the blooms are also large. The spring-raised plants usually run up to one stem only, while the autumn-raised plants having ample time to root and spread will send up several shoots at the same time, and, of course, finer plants result. The months of April and May are the best for Mimuluses to bloom, and after they are over Gloxinias take their places in the greenhouse. In cool positions in the garden, however, Mimuluses will bloom profusely through the summer, and pro- duce a fine effect. — A. D. SEEDLING CHRISTMAS ROSES. It may interest growers of these lovely winter flowers to know that your correspondent "St. Brigid " has been very successful in raising a very fine batch of cross-bred seedlings, fifty-one in num- ber, no two being alike, and none of them quite like the named varieties as at present grown. The seed was produced by the St. Brigid form of H. niger, and the pollen used to fertilise the stigmas of that variety were H. niger altifolius, H. niger ruber, H. niger major, and other kinds. Unless cross-ferti- lised, the St. Brigid variety does not seed freely, although if other kinds be growing in proximity, bees and flies are most industrious in carrying the pollen from flower to flower, and then, of course, seeds may be produced. The fertilisation of the above seedlings took place in January, 1885, and in September of the same year the seed was sown in wooden boxes filled with soil, and covered with slates to exclude vermin, prevent drought by eva- poration, and also to exclude the seeds of weeds. In December and January germination took place, and the seedlings were eventually planted, a foot apart or more, in a deeply-dug, well-enriched bed, and top-dressed with leaf-mould from time to time. Eight of the strongest seedlings flowered in 1887, and this year, 1888, nearly all are in bloom, so that where soil and climate are suitable for seeding Christmas Roses, one has not long to wait for results. The plants themselves vary considerably in leafage and in blossom, but all have a very erect habit, the blooms being well elevated above the foliage ; nearly all have pale green leaf-stalks, and nearly all the flower-stems are more or less dotted with red. The flowers are white, or white suffused with pale rose or flesh colour, and the stigmas vary from greenish white and pale rose to a deep red almost blood-coloured. The flowers fall into three groups, viz., cup-shaped or much imbricated flowers, saucer-shaped or much imbricated flattish flowers, and starry flowers. In which the sepals do not over- lap much, if at all. The leaves fall into three groups, and resemble those of H. niger, i.e., with short, compact, dark green leaflets ; of H. St. Brigid, in which the light green leaflets are elon- gated and narrow, with very slight serratures ; and those of H. n. altifolius, where the leaves are very large, and the leaflets long, broad, coarsely serrated, and of a dark green tint. About a dozen of the variations out of the total of fifty-one plants are bold and noble in habit, and all bear fine shapely flowers. Some of the saucer- shaped blooms are fully i inches in diameter, with very broad and waxy sepals ; some are pure white, others heavily suffused with deep rosy colouring behind, and in some cases this shows through the wax-like segments as a pale flesh tint in front; while some of the snow-white flowers are centred with blood-tinted stigmas. All the plants have been carefully numbered and records made for future reference, and there is every promise of these seedlings inaugurating quite a new epoch in the history and culture of the Christmas Rose. F. W. Burbidge. Dividing Christmas Rosep. — The successful cultivation of this useful and interesting plant (Helleborus niger) is very easily effected. I have at the present time eight plants that I raised last year, and others also that were planted at various periods. Last year I lifted one that had grown on the same spot several years and placed the whole mass of earth and roots just as it was in a tub full of water. In this it was allowed to remain several hours. Then with a blunt-pointed stick and with frequent shakings and stirring about I gradually removed every particle of soil with very little injury to the roots. It then became easy to ascertain into how many portions, each having a separate crown, the plant could be divided. Having found that there were eight that could be treated in this way, I planted them in a row about 2 feet apart, and for about a fortnight protected them at night and occa- sionally from the sun's rays by day with large gar- den pots. In the year preceding I could only obtain four sets from an old plant treated in the manner described. But not one of the plants faUed, and all are now in blossom. The time I chose for this operation was in March or April, as soon as the plant had no more blossoms to produce, and when the seed vessels were just beginning to make their appearance on any of the stalks that may have been allowed to remain. If these directions are carefully attended to, a good supply of these useful flowers can always be secured. A top-dressing of decayed manure put round the plants in November will aid the production of flowers in the blooming season. — B. S. Fentstemons. — Although named varieties of the Pentstemon are still catalogued, yet it is only needful to secure a good strain of seed to have in abundance all the excellent qualities found in this capital biennial. It is worthy of notice that old plants so far have stood the winter well, and should they remain unharmed they will give a very fine show of bloom presently. With a succession of seedlings ready to plant out early, a long blooming season from Fentstemons is thus ob- tained, as the spring-raised seedlings will flower freely up to the end of October, and sometimes later. If seed is sown at once in shallow pans or boxes, and stood in a greenhouse or frame without heat, large numbers of stout young plants will be ready to go out during the month of May. These will simply need dibbling into fairly good garden soil, and they will require little further trouble. If there is any trouble in wintering these plants after their autumn liloom is over, it will be well to sow seed in the month of July, and thus have strong young plants to winter thickly in a frame, where they will stand well. Then, if transplanted out carefully into the open grounil in April, they will flower profusely during the summer. Pentstemon spikes are not suited for use as cut flowers, but they look remarkalily gay when on the plants. Those who do not know what really good Pentstemons are, shovild get a few named plants also. — A. D. Notes on hardy Cyclamens. — Wherever accommodation can be afforded in a garden for the plants of the Alps, we consider no collection com- plete without a selection of these charming little Cyclamens. Mr. Atkins, whose praiseworthy efforts, as everybody knows, have long been crowned with success, cultivated these plants for over thirty years, and eventually succeeded in obtaining a hybrid race, many of the varieties of which are really beautiful, and when grown together make up a picture one rarely sees equalled on the rockery. They are as easy to grow as the most ordinary alpines, essentially lime-loving plants, requiring free drainage and plenty of warmth during summer. In making up beds for these Cyclamens, we always choose a position fully exposed to the sun or with a south-western aspect, protecting, if possible, from east and north. The protection referred to may be afforded by a large boulder or dwarf, dense-growing evergreen shrub, either of which will be found ser- viceable, as the Cyclamens begin to flower early in spring out of doors, and unless protected are liable to be affected by our late cutting winds. Every care, as before hinted, should be taken to have the drainage perfectly free, as no plants sooner resent a stagnant soil than the Cyclamen. The soil should be composed of loam, leaf-mould, and a liberal addition of lime rubbish or mountain ih'lirix. C. europ;i'um especially is fond of the latter, and will often send its rhizomes a long way from where the original was planted. C. Coura, ibericum, and the Atkinsi varieties revel in lime or chalky rubble, and if left to themselves will soon put the chances of success beyond all doubt. Atkinsi is a natural hybrid between Coum and ibericum. The raising of seedlings may be done by anyone interested in ob- taining new varieties, and no doubt improvements are possible even yet. Coum and ibericum will reproduce themselves true from seed. C. neapoli- 122 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. tanum is an autumn-flowering species, and well known under the name of C. hederaefolium, the latter name, however, being misleading, as it origi- nally included two distinct plants, one vernal (C. repandum) and the other autumnal (C. neapolita- num). The latter has, we believe, been naturalised in parts of Cornwall, where we have seen corms almost a foot in diameter and flowering freely every year. Its leaves, large, angular, and beautifully marbled, are the chief feature just now, and have been all through the winter exceedingly pretty and attractive. This species does well under trees, and is a first-rate subject for the woodland walk, where scattered groups, away from the influence of Elm roots, will give lasting pleasure. C. africanum, or macrophyllum, we have tried out of doors, but without success so far. It flowers in autumn, and develops its leaves in winter and spring. A native of Algiers. — K. FLOWER GARDEN NOTES. Arched trellis fob Roses and Clematis. — Over a walk we have a length of trellis, the span of which is 8 feet, and the height is the same. Such trellising for climbers is, I am aware, no novelty, but the arrangement of the plants is novel, as the trellis is furnished throughout alternately with climbing Roses and Clematis, the selection of both being made with a view to have flowers for as long a season as possible. Thus we have the earliest, midseason, and latest flowering Roses, and the same of Clematis, though as regards the latter, not know- ing the varieties well, catalogue descriptions had to be relied on. Planting was done little more than a year ago, and the plants have made excellent pro- gress. As the object is to cover the wire- work as quickly as possible, neither Roses nor Clematises will be cut back. I note that the latter are already making plenty of new side growths, and when these growths have extended about a foot in length on both sides of the main stem, the points will be pinched out to induce lateral growth. The plants, of course, will not flower so early, but part of the season's bloom we shall be content to sacrifice so that the trellis may get more quickly furnished with growth. Once the allotted] space for each kind of plant is covered, the intention is to prune regularly and always on the spur system, the aim being to have each, as it were, in separate divisions. To some extent, especially as regards the Clematis, the plan is new, but it shall have a good trial. No trouble was spared in the first preparation of the ground, this being trenched to the greatest depth possible, and besides vegetable mould, a liberal supply of the most lasting manure, quarter-inch crushed bones, was put in. Anemones'and Ranunculuses. — These flowers are of the greatest use during May and Jane. We are now planting the roots, and a west border is selected, as this gets plenty of sunshine. The ground was deeply dug and well dressed with the best rotted manure we had, and this being done in the autumn they had got well settled, so that shallow drilling could be done with ease. The drills were drawn some 4 inches in depth and !) inches from each other, and a thick layer of sharp sand was placed in each; then the tubers were planted, with eyes upwards, 6 inches apart in the drills, and before they were covered in another sprinkling of sand was applied. By this mode of planting the tubers are placed at an equal depth, and this mainly ensures them flowering together, for though they are intended more especially for cutting, one likes to see a mass of flowers, however short-lived they may be. The Turban Ranunculuses are most favoured on account of their great vigour and long-lasting quality, both in the border and as cut flowers. As permanent groups in herbaceous borders both Anemones and Ranunculuses are ex- cellent. By good preparation of the soil when first planted, and care taken to prevent injury to the tubers either by digging or treading on the borders, the groups will last and flower well for years.- Of course, I am supposing that the ground is well drained and the soil free and open, as on heavy, cold soils they would [die the first winter — Ptanun- culuses certainly. Anemones might survive a year or two, but the flowers would be poor. On wet soils annual planting is indispensable, and February is the earliest time it should be done. Seedling Vekbenas. — Some three years since a friend of mine induced me to grow these, and I am glad I followed his advice. The seed is cheap, and no seedlings are more easy to raise by all who have an ordinary Cucumber frame. Sow now in pans of light soil, only very slightly cover the seeds, keep constantly moist — never really wet — and place the pans in a frame or pit having a minimum warmth of 50°, and look for the seedlings in from a fortnight to three weeks after sowing. As soon as large enough to handle prick the plants off into the same description of light soil, and again place in the frames until large enough to be potted singly, when they should have a more airy temperature and be grown on as sturdily as possible. Finally transfer them to the borders about the middle of May. Not- withstanding heat and drought, we had no more effective border flowers than these last year, which shows the greater vigour of seedlings over cuttings, as plants thus raised have for so many years turned out all but a complete failure. Seed-sowing and peopagation. — Through the long-continued drought of last summer, seedling Petunias continued to grow and flower in the most marvellous manner. They were used here for trail- ing over the edges of large basket beds and vases, and grew so luxuriantly that they had to be cut back to prevent them interfering with the growth of such other strong growing plants as Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums and Cobsea scandens ; as a matter of course therefore, we intend to use them again, and shall shortly sow the seeds in light soil, and place them in a temperature of not less than from 55° to 60*. Other seeds that are now to be sown and raised in a similar manner are annual Chrysanthe- mums, Anagallis grandiflora, Cuphea miniata, double-flowered Groundsel, Jacobsea, or Senecio, and Salvias. It is early yet to sow several other excel- lent annuals that are equally suitable for the garden, and to which allusion will be made in due time. As fast as cuttings of the best summer flowering Pelar- goniums can be had, they are taken off and struck in shallow boxes and pans arranged on bricks over the hot-water pipes of fruit and plant houses. A good watering is given as soon as the cuttings are inserted, and rarely needs to be repeated before the cuttings have begun to root ; at any rate, water must be sparingly applied until roots are emitted, otherwise they may damp off. The variegated Mesembryanthemum and all succulents strike suc- cessfully under the same conditions, and it is now time these were all inserted. Lobelias, Heliotropes, Ageratums, Coleus, and Iresines strike best in a close, moist heat, such as that of a Cucumber frame, and it is not unusual to make up a hotbed purposely for the propagation of these. This hotbed, as the heat cools down, and is of no further use for propa- gating, can be utilised for the raising of Cauliflower, Lettuce, Cabbage, and Celery plants. W. Wildsmith. piece of plantiug is Acacia lophantha and the blue African Lily ; and another probably quite as eff'ective would be the blue and white intermixed. Garden Flora. SHORT NOTES.— FLOWER. Aeeratum Lord Salisbury.— Would some readers kindly give their experience of the merits of the .above Ageratiim? I cinnot find the name in any catalogue.— Lilium Parryi.— I shall bo very grateful for hints cm the culture of LUium Parryi from tliose who have gained practical success in the management of it. With me the old bulljs seem to break up into numerous little bulbs. — A. C. Bartholomew. White African Lily (Agapanthus umbollatus candidus). — This is a lovely flower, and an excellent companion to the blue-flowered type, as the colours of both are decided and pure. A spike of the white form, sent by Mr. Patera, of Guernsey, recently, showed whai^ a really fine acquisition it ia, as the umbel was crowded with flowera that individually would make a neat but- ton-hole. Specimens of these beautiful plants should he Been in every garden, aa they are both easy to grow and have a stately habit that adapta them for planting singly in a vase or the centre of a bed. A very happy PLATE 635. BORDER CARNATIONS. (with coloured plate of carnation comtesse DE PARIS.*) The coloured plate of the very beautiful border Carnation given this week again reminds us of the great value of this class of plants for fur- nishing our hardy flower gardens with objects of beauty all the year round. The beds and borders of vigorou.s, healthy Carnations, even when out of bloom, are always interesting to the lovers of these plants, and are by no means unattractive to ordinary observers. For va- riety and beauty of foliage, seedlings are by far the best ; the leaves of the plants are as distinct in their way as the flowers are, and one can almost pick out, by the difierent shades of colour in the leaves, the flaked and bizarred varieties from those that will produce flowers of a uniform self colour. The time for propagating and planting out border Carnations is the autumn, as they seldom succeed if taken up from the open ground and planted in spring. Spring-planted stock, unless the plants have been carefully turned out of pots, has not time to become established before the flower-stems are thrown up ; consequently the roots are unable to supply nourishment to them, and the stems as well as the flowers are far inferior to those produced from plants esta- blished in October. The time for sowing the seeds is at hand. Perhaps the last week in March or the first in April is as good a time for this as any other. I always get strong, healthy plants from April- sown seeds. Some of them have produced up- wards of 200 flowers the following season. If good seed were sown in fine soil out of doors it would vegetate, but all of it is not good, and many experienced growers have a notion that the slightly imperfect seeds produce the best varieties. The late Mr. John Keynes, emi- nent as a raiser of seedling Dahlias, said he cared nothing for plump, perfect seeds, but preferred those that were thin and not so well developed. It may be so with Carnations, and such seeds vegetate best if sown in pots, which can be plunged in tlie mild bottom heat of an ordinary hotbed. I have seen plants appear within seven days of the seed having been .sown. Sometimes a space of two or three weeks will intervene before the seedlings appear. The plants are very liable to damp off in the close, moist atmosphere of a hotbed, and if they remain for any length of time in the pots before they are pricked out, the stem below the seed leaves becomes very long and weak. I prick the seedlings out into boxes, planting them in fine sandy soil as deep as the seed leaves. There is danger of their damping oti' before they are pricked out, none after. If the ground is ready the plants may be planted out early in June, but on no ac- count must they be allowed to become crowded, and to avoid this I have frequently replanted them in boxes a second time. Any good garden ground will do in which to bloom the plants. Kitchen garden soil that has been trenched 2 feet deep and well manured is as good as any other. We plant them after Tulips and Ranunculuses. The beds for these are • Drawn for The Gaedbn at Gravetye, August 3, 1887, by H. G. Moon, and printed by G. Severeyns. THE GARDEN. ,Ji24h-.' Feb. 11, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 123 always trenched and well manured, and when the bulbs are dug up in June the ground is merely forked over for the Carnations, and they succeed remarkably well. Good seeds of Carnations can be purchased, there is no doubt, but I recommend saving the seed from well-marked and good crosses. The best self or border Carnations are obtained from flakes and bizarres or from Picotees. The plants intended to bear seeds are set apart by themselves and are carefully hybridised. I stated last year in The Garden that I had ob- tained very good purple self Carnations from seed of Her Majesty, a pure white Picotee with a very narrow light purjjle edge round each petal. In the seedlings the white had disappeared, and the purple colour siilfused every petal. Of course, there were amongst the seedlings many Picotees. Scarlet bizarre Carnations produced many beautiful maroon and scarlet selfs. The flakes are, as a rule, most productive of selfs. White varieties are sometimes produced, but less frequently than the scarlet, purple, maroon, rose, and red. I have never had a blush variety like the sub- ject of the plate, but this, of course, could be obtained freely enough from blush or pale flesh-coloured parents. The raising of seedling Carnations is very easy, and there is no more fasoinatins; pursuit in the whole range of floriculture. We gi'ow all our best Carnations in pots, although a large num- ber are cultivated out of doors. Some persons afiect to despise the culture of Carnations in pots, but for my part I would rather see the stages of the greenhouse filled with Carnations and Picotees than with any other plants. Fill two greenhouses of equal size one with zonal Pelargoniums and the other with Carnations, and it is easy to predict which would be chosen. We will repot our Carnations about the end of February or early in March — two small or medium-sized plants in an 8-inch pot, and the same number of strong plants in a 9-inoh one. The plants are placed in cold frames for a few weeks, and afterwards turned out of doors until the flowers begin to open, when they are placed in the greenhouse. It is a good plan to fumi- gate them when they are taken in, as thrips get inside the pods even before the colour of the flower can be seen, and quite destroy the petals, while green-fly attacks the youngest leaves. Both these pests can be destroyed by fumigating. Earwigs — which are also troublesome, as they lie up in the pods and eat the petals quite through at the base, so that when a flower is shaken they all drop out — may be caught at night by the aid of a lamp. It is a good plan to place a dressing of some rich compost on the surface of the pots some time in May. The numerous plants in beds and borders out of doors do not require much attention. Keep the ground clear of weeds of course, and, if necessary, stir the surface of the ground with a hoe or a small fork. I treat the out-of-door plants the same as those grown in pots, and top-dress them in May. To make these few remarks more complete, I would just allude to the tree, or perpetual - flowering varieties. The preliminary part of their culture is given in The Gaedbn, Jan 28 (p. 80). Many amateurs may not know the difierenoe between an ordi- nary border Carnation and one that is termed perpetual flowering. Suppose a young plant of each is grown together ; they would each throw up their flower-stems, and so far would appear alike ; but the perpetual flowering variety would throw out from the flower-stem many lateral growths, which would in their turn produce flowers. This peculiar habit, at first obtained casually, in time became fixed, and now we have a whole group of beautiful self-coloured varieties with this habit. The following is a list of good border Carna- tions in the various colours : — White. — The Bride (Hodges), Bridesmaid (Gor- ton), Gloire de Nancy, W. P. Milner. Blush.— The Governor (Cross), Comte de Chambord, Souvenir de la Malmaison. Phik or rose. — Lord Rosebery, Mary Morris. Scarlet. — Scarlet Gem, Coroner. Purple. — Purple Emperor, Prince Imperial. Huff. — Mrs. Reynolds Hole, Amber, Florence. Yellotv. — Ernest Benary, Will Threlfall, and Edith. J. Douglas. Fruit Garden. FRUIT PROSPECTS FOR 1888. It may seem early to write of these, yet it is not too early to note that the drought of last season has well and truly laid the foundations of fertility for the present year ; and that seems to me almost the only promising legacy it has left us ; and even as to that, it is but a promise, which may or may not be ful- filled. If the views that have been recently expressed on the efiects of root-drought on fruit- bud-dropping under glass are sound, a reduc- tion of the rainfall from a mean of 24 inches to 17 inches for the year just closed may be ex- pected to tell injuriously on the actual fruit yield of 1888. Stone fruits, too, especially Plums, are actually on the move. We have had a few days of semi-summer weather (this is written on January 25), and the Plums, as fre- quently seen, are the first to feel the stirrings of new life, and to make dangerous tracks to- wards precocious development. These suffice to show the prodigality of bloom, and this is the more striking, as Plums here were one of the heaviest crops of the season last year. The old saying, that there is seldom two heavy Plum crops in succession, is, therefore, not very likely to be verified this year. As it is profitless to prophesy unless we know, it must suffice for the present tu note the plentiful promise of blossoms and fruit on Plums in particular and stone fruits in general. Apples and Pears are much later and give less pronounced notice of coming events. However, these also promise a full fruit basket this season. Bush fruits and Raspberries also promise well. Strawberries in some gardens suffered much by the early frosts, and such sorts as British Queen and even President are almost leafless. Still, such early, and even almost entire, denudation does not greatly, nor always seriously affect the yield. The year 1887 was not really favourable for Strawberries ; the crops were generally seriously deficient and uuprecedentedly evanescent. One, two, or three gatherings were all that were ob- tained in not a few gardens. In others, and chiefly by turning a river over them, the yield was up to an average alike in quantity and quality. The deficiency of runners, however, was almost universal. It seemed impossible to fetch these up to average time, quality or quantity, do what we might, and in very many gardens a serious lack of plants both for forcing and planting in the open was the worst result of the uuprece- dentedly severe and long protracted drought. HORTUS. Winter Pears. — There was not a good Eng- lish grown winter Pear in Covent Garden last week ! A man who has a quantity of good winter Pears would have no difficulty in obtain- ing Is. apiece for them. What is the value. then, of the winter Pears fit for our country in any part? Pear growing is a costly delusion, and must be changed root and branch. STANDARD PEARS FOR BRITAIN. With reference to Mr. Wildsmith's note in The Garden, Feb. 4 (p. 85), we certainly cannot leave out Jargonelle in favour of Williams' Bon Chretien. Although Williams' Bon Chretien is considered a good market variety, we shall not include any Pear of second class flavour in our list of standard varieties. We want the very best flavoured sorts, and those that will do well over the length and breadth of the United Kingdom. Jargonelle has been in cultivation for centuries, and we think that a Pear which has maintained its character for such a length of time is worthy of being included among the standard Pears for England. Jargonelle is per- haps the best tried Pear in the world. How does the Jargonelle fail ? Is it from the climate being too warm, or from being grown on a wall in a warm county and district ] For the slightest defect in flavour we will not pass any fruit. Many people either have no taste, or use it so badly, that they praise fruit of low quality. We quote the following note sent by Mr. A. Young, formerly gardener to Sir H. S. Stan- hope, of Holme Lacy, who grew the best Pears in England : — As a rule I have found that the large handsome Pears are deficient in flavour. The vinous-flavoured varieties were the favourites. Such varieties as Williams' Bon Chretien and Gansel's Bergamot were not allowed to be sent to table. We shall be willing to exclude Jargonelle if our readers wish, but it must be for a better fruit ! We shall not include Williams' or any of its class. It may go with the early Pears, but no fruit is to go in our •' Standard Pears for Brita'n " the flavour of which is offensive to any one person. We think that musky ffavours are not merely objectionable in Pears ; they indi- cate unwholesome ones ! The Jargonelle Fear in Essex. — I have grown this Pear on light, and also on heavy, soUs in this county, but it is not so good as it is in Scotland. We have it here as a large tree on the Pear stock, and as a dwarf bush on the Quince, and again on the Pear stock trained to a north wall. The best flavoured fruits are obtained from the dwarf bush on the Quince stock. And they are quite as large again as those gathered from the large standard tree on the Pear. Those from the wall are the largest, but have not quite such a good flavour. I have noticed that this variety of Pear does not form a good union with the Quince, a large swelling being produced at the base of the scion. I plant the tree deeply enough to cover the lower part of the swelling. For a permanent tree in the south of England I recommend planting it against a wall facing the north or west. Worked on the Quince and planted as I suggest, it forms a dwarf fret - bearing tree. It is quite hardy and bears freely under any conditions. The fruit, however, unfor- tunately, decays quickly after it has been gathered, and I do not know any fruit more liable to le attacked by wasps and birds. — J. Douglas. The six best Pears. — In answer to your in- quiries respecting the best sis Pears, I will send seven, as I am very doubtful which to place first out of the two first on my list. I think their points are about equal ; they are as follows ; Williams' Bon Chretien, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Marie Louise, Doyenng du Cornice, Winter Nelis, Josephine de Malines, and Olivier de Serres. These are, from my observations, the best, and although only small in size and poor to look at in comparison to many, I fail to see the use of growing fruits that are 124 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. deficient in flavour, let their appearances be what they may, and I think flavour should be the first consideration. It may be just worth asking those who are promoters of horticultural exhibitions if they are teaching the public the value of good fruit by encouraging on the exhibition table large Pears, that have no merit except appearance, as most of the prizes go to this class of fruit.— John Ceook, I'arnhorowjli Grange, Ha)its. PEAR WINTER NELIS. I THOROUGHLY agree with you and your numerous correspondents in placing this Pear at the very head of the list for quality. I have grown it in various places and positions as cordons, bushes, pyramids, and on walls, and in all forms, shapes, and sizes, and have always found the quality first- rate. The fruits have been largest on west, north- west, and east walls. But one of the most notable features of this Pear is its uniformly high flavour on widely differing soils and in a great variety of con- ditions. While the size of the fruit varies much under different circumstances, I have never found the flesh harsh or gritty, nor lacking in that pecu- liarly delicate aroma and rich vinous flavour that seem constant in this fine variety. This constancy is well-nigh invaluable among Pears, among which changes of quality are so constantly occurring, that no one, not even the most experienced, can ever be quite sure of what they may find in the majority of sorts. I should be glad to hear the opinions of others on this point, but the flavour of AVinter Nelis has never failed me, provided the fruit was fairly ripe. Most of the authorities give its season of ripening from November to February. But that very much depends, as the East Anglian farmers' wives mysteriously affirm. With us it is mostly in season from October to the end of the year. Pos- sibly it might keep longer, but its superb quality and popularity finish it up by Christmas or there- abouts. It is too small and sober-looking ever to become a profitable market fruit. More's the pity. But in the market the eye of the purchaser must be satisfied before the grower's pockets can be filled; and hence to a great extent the numbers of hard, gritty Pears that crowd our stalls and tables to the exclusion of such genuine sorts as the Winter Nelis. Its modest size, slender, long stalk, undemonstrative colours of green, drab, and russet, conceal rather than reveal its transcendant merits. The skin is specially thin, and the flesh tender, rich, and melting. The tree is hardy, of moderate — some might say weakly — growth, and so continuously fertile as seldom to miss a full crop. Take it for all in all, it is difiicult to name a Pear to equal Winter Nelis, while no one but a gourmand among Pears need wish for one to beat it. I write thus advisedly after many years' experience, and with the full consciousness that some have dubbed the flavour of Winter Nelis flat ! D. T. F. SKOR T NO TES.—FR HIT. Pear GratioH of Jersey.— I have always found this Pear of K'"''<1 tlavijur, and consider it one of the best early kinds. I have Iieard that it ia grown for market round London, for wliich purpose 1 shoidd say it is well adapted, tteinf; vury prdific and of good habit of growth. — A. Baekeii, llunU'.J,. Oaljfoniiati Pears.— Dviring ihe p:st week we ex- ?iiiincd Bnme tpecimens of Californian Pears, which were the best in Ihe market, though by no nieaiia so gord as we t-hould expect to find them. Mrs. Lewis Solomon told us that in two small c.-tses thtre were as many as five dozen deeayei fruitd. Bf-ing the only good Pears available, the trade had t*> give a higli price for thein. Naturally the re- tall price mubt therefore lie very high ; but what we want t.» jioint out is, that if the winter Pears that our friends speak of as good at this time exist there is a gond market fur thcni. Pear Easter Beurre.— We have bought some noble Easter lieurr<'s in Covent Garden, wonderfully fine and rich in flavour, but the freshness of tlii/ir juice a little gone oir. Doubtless it will not bo Luig before this precious fruit, which now brings Is. to l.s. 'JJ. apiece in tlie London market, will be grown in other countries suited to its wants, and there will not be the slightest need to grow it in England, where, indeed, it is grown only with great trouble, and with the best care only becomes a most imperfect fruit. The space given to it in our country is wasted. THE PEARS TO GROW. The individual properties of most of the popular varieties of Pears are sufficiently known to those who have had much experience in Pear growing. In choosing a limited number out of the perplexing quantities that have hitherto been grown, there is usually a difference of opinion as to what varieties it is best to include and what should be left out. Soil and climate have a greater influence on Pears than most fruits, as they vary so much in different localities. I may here say that the selection which I have in view refers to such varieties as are best for growing in a private garden where the object is to have a continuous supply for home use during the time in which Pears are in season. This, need- less to say, is quite a different matter to growing for sale, where the aim is to limit the kinds to such as will make the most money, regardless of either the quality of the fruit or the length of time the supply lasts. If there is one thing more apparent than another, it is that with Pears, as with most fruits, the tendency for a good many years has been to put size before quality. Without in any way disparaging a fine appearance when combined with more essential properties, size in any variety of Pear only holds an inferior place ; quality, which includes both flavour and texture, stands first ; freedom in bearing, with a sufficiently hardy constitution, se- cond ; and size, third. In making a selection of varieties I hold that these are the points to be guided by, taking them in the order they are put. It is also important that the list should consist of sorts that do not ripen too much together, a matter that Pear planters of the past seem to have given little attention to, through which in most places where Pears are grown to any extent there are as many sorts ripe during October and November as would suffice for the whole of the Pear season if a better choice had been made. Fortunately, some of the very best sorts thrive and bear freely, producing fruit of good quality in places where soil and other matters are widely different. One of the chief considerations to be kept in view when making a selection of varieties that can be 'relied on for planting in different parts of the country is to choose the kinds that succeed under widely different conditions. Any Pear that will only answer in exceptionably favour- able localities should not be included in a list that is made with the object of confining the selection to a reasonable number of the best varieties that will give a regular supply through the Pear season. With one or two exceptions, I have proved aP the varieties in the accompanying list in parts of the country where the conditions are so far different as to show that these might be depended on for general planting anywhere where Pears will do fairly. Ilipe in Juhj or Auf/iist. — Doyenne d'Etc, Citron des Carmes, Beurre de I'Assomption. JCiul oj Aufiiist orScj)teinliei\ — Jargonelle, Fondante d'Automne, Williams' Bon Chretien, Beurre Supetlin. (hiiiher or A'oremher. — Comte de Lamy, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Seckel, Marie Louise, Doyenne du Cornice, Beurre Diel. Nnremher or Veceniher. — Prince of Wales (Huy- she's), Beurrfi Duval, Glou Morceau. Zlecemhcr or January. — Knight's Monarch, lieurrfe Bachelier, Beurrt? d'Aremberg. Janiiarji and Frhruarij. — Marie Benoist, Beurre Sterckmans, Winter Nelis, .losephine de Malines. Frhriiary, Mari'li, April, or Mai/. — Beurrfi Ranee, Ne Plus Meuris. I give the months in which the different va- rieties named may be expected to ripen with the intention of showing that at no time will there be too many sorts in — a mistake that in most places where Pears are largely grown usually occurs, and through which much waste follows. In some years, such as the past. Pears ripen so much out of season that there is no certainty about them. After hot, dry summers the late keepers usually are much later in ripening than they are after cold, wet summers. After a hot summer I have had Beurre Ranee in April, and Ne Plus Meuris in May in better condition than I ever saw them when they have ripened two months earlier. Those who have grown Pears on moderately light soil, and also on land of a clayey nature, cannot fail to have noticed the superior flavour of the fruit of most \arieties from the light soil. There are exceptions to this, however. Williams' Bon Chretien, for instance, grown in the heavy, tenacious soil about London is of finer flavour than I have ever met with it from any other part of the country. Fruit of any good variety of Pear when of medium size is almost invariably better than the same va- riety is when very large. Of this, Louise Bonne of Jersey may be named as an example. With me, in a season when a tree happened to carry only a few fruits, which attained a large size, they were never so good as others not more than half as big borne by other trees that carried a full crop. This excellent sort has few equals, taking all its pro- perties into account, including the hardiness of the tree, its freedom of bearing under varied conditions, and the quality of the fruit. Amongst fifty picked varieties that I had in a garden where Pears of better flavour and finer in texture than I have ever met with elsewhere grew, Louise Bonne was one of the three best, Seckel and Marie Louise being the other two. For a considerable time back the tendency which I have already mentioned, to give too much favour to size, has been gradually spreading. In proof of this, one has only to look back to the Pears that used to be shown at the leading exhibitions of hardy fruits in times past as compared with those that are now staged. 'Take, for instance, the Royal Horticultural Society's autumn shows that used to be held before the South Kensington Garden was in existence. Then the highest-flavoured, finest-tex- tured small varieties not only held their own, but had the preference o\er the bigger and better- looking, but worse-eating sorts that now leave some of the best kinds out of competition alto- gether. At the exhibitions held by the Royal Horti- cultural Society, in the class of single dishes of Pears, ripe and fit for immediate use, any variety was admis- sible except Seckel, which, if my recollection is cor- rect, was excluded, a separate class being made for it, by reason that Seckel was then looked upon as so much better than the large varieties that now have preference, that they had no chance in competing against it. Now, Seckel or any other really good small variety is rarely seen on an exhibition stage, the reason not being far to seek. The exhibitors feel that with the preference given to size, the presence of small sorts, however fine in quality, would tell against their success. It is not alone by the encouragement that is given at the exhibitions to the biggest kinds that people are led in the wrong direction, but equally so by the prominence that is almost invariably given to the largest examples of the respective varieties shown, though more often than not they are coarse and much inferior to medium or small examples of the same variety, a fact that is not likely to be disputed by anyone who has had much to do with Pear growing. When collections of Pears are shown at the autumn exhibitions, say in from twelve to twenty- five varieties, it will generally be seen that the awards are given to the exhibits which have the greatest number of sorts in them that are ripe and fit for use at the time, yet a collection that was composed of varieties that would give a regular suc- cession up to the end of the Pear season would be much preferable. To some extent the preference that exists in favo\ir of ripe fruit accounts for the awards being made in this way. Many are led to select the sorts they grow from what they see ex- hibited, and if those who have the arrangement of the schedules for the autumn hardy fruit shows would insert a clause to the effect that in the Pear competition the collections that contained the best kinds for keeping up an unbroken succession would have preference, it would be a step in the right direction. T. B. Medlar preserve. — The Medlar may be con- sidered ornamental at all seasons, but when in flower it is really beautiful. The fruits, too, ar0 Feb. 11, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 125 more useful than is generally supposed. In The Garden (p. 71) it is stated that Mr. Rivers, of Saw- bridgeworth, exhibited before the fruit committee of the Royal Horticultural Society a pot of Medlar jam, which was pronounced delicious. Might I ask if this was a jam or a jelly, as the two are, of course, distinct. If " R. D." meant jelly, then he is wrong in supposing that this is a new use for the Medlar, as this excellent conserve has been made in this neighbourhood during the last thirty years or more. As regards its quality, the two small pots which I send will speak for themselves. The contents of one were made last December, and the other about the end of the year 1881. In case any of your readers may wish to preserve a portion of this fruit, the directions for doicg so are as follows : Let the fruit be ripe, or nearly so, put it in a copper sauce- pan, and cover with spring water. Let it simmer gently until the fruit becomes a pulp. While quite hot strain through a hair sieve, pressing the fruit very gently. To every pint of juice add 1 lb. ot lump sugar. Boil for about three-quarters of an hour, stirring all the time, when it may be poured into glass, saucer, &o. — P. G., Bury St. Edmmids. PEACH BLOSSOMS DROPPING. In this note Peach also means Nectarines and Plums. It is needful to be precise to prevent future inquiries as well as fatal mistakes and needless reiteration. In brief, then, the cause of the dropping of Peach buds is dryness at the roots. There may be, there are, other causes, such as immaturity of wood, over-cropping, in- sufficiency or an excess of food ; but while any or all of these causes pull off their hundreds of Peach blossoms, drought at the roots causes tens of thousands to fall. Neither is the cure so simple as it may seem, for though drought is without doubt the cause of the buds dropping, it by no means follows that a deluging of water at any given time will with equal certainty keep them on. The ques- tions of time of drying as well as of watering are, in fact, the very core of the question as well as that of the degree of drought. The time when the mischief is done is, as a rule, far earlier than is generally supposed. The popular fallacy that dryness at the roots hastens and heightens the maturity alike of fruit and wood is very much to blame for much of our bud-dropping. Translated into every-day prac- tice, these phrases mean that the wood is the harder, the buds the plumper, and the fruit the more highly flavoured in proportion to the dry- ness at the roots. Tliis is assuredly not so in regard to stone fruits such as Peaches, Necta- rines, and Plums. On the contrary, moderately moist root- runs favour the highest quality alike of fruit-buds and wood. Thjy also so firmly strengthen and cement the union between buds and wood, as to hold them firmly attached until they are transformed into fruitlets, when any danger of the vital connection being severed ceases. If all this is true, those who attempt to hasten maturity through root-drouglit not only miss that mark, but lose their buds as well. For it is aljsolutely certain that root-drought during the finishing process endangers the stability of the buds in several ways. For example, it prevents them being perfectly finished or filled up. And it is well known that unfinished or imperfect buds are those most liable to lie withered up or dropped in the early process of further develop- ment. The roots as well as the l)uds are also checked by drought ; and the supplies of moisture as well as food needful during the dormant season to sustain the connection being forcibly cut oil', the buds are so loosened that fall they must when the slightest extra vital or atmospheric strain is put upon them. And once this inclination to drop is esta- blished, it is almo.st impossible to cure or change it. Even the most obvious means of cure — a sudden rush of water — not seldom aggra- vates and confirms the predisposition to fall, and the buds come off' with a rush ; while as for watering in the spring as an antidote to bud- dropping, it not seldom proves worse than useless, though indeed it is diflioult to see what else anyone can do. Instead, however, of soaking or drowning them by one drenching, it is far safer to water gradually five or six times in succession, thus making the transition from drought to moisture as gradual and impercep- tible as may be. But the only real cure for bud-dropping is prevention, and the secret of prevention is simple enough, and repeated at large by every outside Peach border throughout the kingdom every year. In a word, it is simply, never allow the routs to get dry, and there will be no bud-dropping. Who ever saw Peach blossoms drop in the open air in this country I No one. Why ] Because the roots of the trees in the open are always rather too wet than too dry. Climatal extremes, hoar-frosts, east winds may blight and destroy the blooms in the open air, but such mishaps are widely different from the common phenomenon of wholesale bud-dropping under glass. Occasional, indeed sudden and severe rises of temperature exaggerate, if they do not cause this evil in houses. But these are but accidental outbreaks of one of the most provoking incidents of Peach culture indoors. And of that it may be allirmed with aljsolute confidence, that the buds drop because the roots are too dry, and tliat they will cease to drop provided they are supplied with from 25 inches to 30 inches of water, skilfully distributed over the entire year. Some would confine it to the growing season — a most misleading phrase, for growth, like life, is continuous, and a constant supply of water at the roots all the year round is the first necessity of both alike. D. T. F. HARDY FRUITS. Timely mulching. — Work in the hardy fruit garden this season should not be in arrear, for as yet we have hardly lost a single day through stress of weather ; moreover, the ground being so fresh and dry and thoroughly pulverised by the intense drought of the past summer, root-prun- ing and planting have gone on merrily. A mild dry, open winter no doubt is very pleasant for all engaged in outdoor operations, and to young gar- deners who have to spend so many hours shivering against brick walls especially so ; but what about the future .' With 1(1 inches of rain due at the end of the past year and a dry January, the chances run strongly in favour of gardeners paying back with interest the comfort Nature is lavishing upon them by toiling on many a long broiling day with hose and water-barrel wherever that useful element can be found for horticultural purposes. Water in this part of the country is very scarce indeed, and although several who have the means have been discussing the wisdom of making large tanks and tapping our richly stored hills, the matter, so far, has ended in talk. Here, fortunately, provision for domestic use, fire, and irrigation purposes was made years ago, but it is very sad to see our neighbours so lukewarm upon a matter of vital importance. It is yet early to talk of watering, as we may have a wet spring, but, supposing the rain does not come, the man who now looks ahead and shuts in existing moisture by liberal mulching will have many points in his favour next season. The pruning, nailing, and cleansing of all wall trees will now be finished, and the most important seasonable work I can think of is this timely mulching with manure or other non-conducting materials. Manure in all cases, be it understood, is neither necessary nor desirable, but all trees and plants, like Pears on the Quince, Apples on the Paradise, Cherries on the Mahaleb, Raspberries and Strawberries, which revel in a rich larder, will take it in any quantity. Peaches and Apricots, on the other hand, growing in the best of compost and with roots already creeping into the heavily manured vegetable border, will do equally well, if not better, with a good shake down of long stable litter. If rain comes, so much the better ; if not, why then much good will be derived from the timely application of water. Apricots are the first to show the effect of a too dry condition of the border through the autumn and winter, and Peaches come next, but I never knew either of these drop their buds to any extent after a wet season. The retention of moisture is not the only advantage the trees derive from mulching, especially in for- ward seasons. Just now the buds are swelling very fast, and next to shading — a troublesome, if not an impracticable business — I know of no more effectual mode of retarding than preventing the sun from striking into the surface of the borders. By this means we kill two birds with one stone, and now, before work becomes pressing, is the time to perform this operation. Pkotection of feuit blossoms. — Although timely mulching, to which I have just drawn attention, will retard the flowers by keeping the roots of the trees cool, it will not shield them from the effect of spring frosts. At the present moment the buds are rather forward, but our climate, being so fickle and changeable, the impending earliness, as well as the drought, may yet be set aside by a cold, wet protracted spring. The later the season, many people say, the brighter our fruit prospects ; but this adage of late years has been reversed, as we have witnessed the total loss of promising crops of fruit when frost has never touched the trees during the time they were in flower. A cold, sunless spring or continuation of winter, with the tempera- ture ranging between 30° and 10° for weeks together, by checking and weakening the flow of sap, although slower in its action, is sometimes quite as fatal as frost itself, and, unfortunately, this climatal con- dition cannot be corrected by any amount of artificial covering. This fact, however, does not justify our neglecting the preparation of the best materials we have at command for warding off frost, as we never have two seasons exactly alike, and the sooner these are got in readiness for use the better. Peaches, Apricots, Pears, Plums and Cherries all need protection to ensure their safety — blinds, glass copings, fishing nets and light Spruce or Yew branches, one or all being most frequently used for this purpose. Glass copings 2 feet in width, with movable blinds extending from the ground to the eaves, no doubt look and answer best ; but the masses cannot incur the expense, and search for rougher and cheaper materials than which, I question, if there is anything better than a broad coping board with two or three thicknesses of fishing-net suspended 1 foot or 2 feet from the trees. Whether the boards do, or do not, check radiation, it is quite certain that they are a powerful aid in warding off storms of rain and sleet from all points excepting the south, whilst the nets in front let in light and air, and give very little trouble, as they can remain a fixture until the fruit is set. I have used Frigi-domo canvas and other expensive materials which require daily attention, but now for some years the broad coping board and fishing- nets have taken their places, ajid I cannot say when I lost a full crop of Peaches. Late peuning. — With the exception of Figs, all fruit trees, including Gooseberries, should now be pruned and cleansed by hand washing or copious supplies of soapsuds from the garden engine. Hardy fruit trees will stand strong insecticides through the early part of winter, but great caution now the sap is on the move should be exercised. Soapsuds, however, are not only sate, but coming regularly from the laundry they may be plied long after the trees are trained. When Moss or Lichen become troublesome, we sometimes add a few gal- 126 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. Ions of lime water to the soapsuds for Apples and Pears, but this I do not think absolutely necessary, as the latter, without the lime, produces the desired eflfect. When Gooseberries are pruned, birds, now numerous and troublesome, must be kept at bay. Here, the beautiful bullfinch is most troublesome, and having a great aversion to killing, I have dashed the trees with a wash of soot and lime passed through a fine sieve, and down to last spring always saved the crop. Literally starved out, or the birds having acquired a taste for this condiment, they commemorated the jubilee by devouring the buds in spite of the dressing, and I am now obliged to use nets, not permanently, but from the time I prune untU the fruit is set. The crop safe, insect- eating birds have full play until the wary blackbird appears upon the scene. Peaches. — These we have detached from the walls, and every tree has been well washed with soap water, but the walls have not yet been dressed, as we prefer putting off this work until the worst of the wintry weather has passed away. Practically speaking, the pruning of these trees was performed last October, but, as usual, we now find a few more shoots may he spared, and a general smoothing of cuts necessarily left rough when the leaves were upon them will be deferred until they are loosened from their supports for nailing in. By keeping the branches a good distance from the wall the swelling of the buds is more or less retarded, and in this position they remain until the flowers show colour, when further delay might prove dangerous, cer- tainly injurious to the swelling buds. I do not object to the removal of a quantity of blossom buds after the trees are trained, but when they are knocked off by the workmen we are apt to think they have not made a judicious selection. If not already done, Peach and Apricot borders should now be well covered with fresh stable litter, as there will be much traffic over them for the next two months, when, independently of a clean, com- fortable foothold, a mulch of this kind will keep in a great deal of moisture. The roots of Peaches and Nectarines lifted and replanted three months ago have made considerable growth, and will continue this satisfactory progress if a check from drought does not overtake them. To such trees, the fresh soil being abundantly rich, we give a thick surfacing of old lime rubble, but not one atom of manure, the only stimulant being a trifle of ammonia in the stable litter, which a dry atmosphere soon absorbs. Digging amongst FExni thbes. — When pyra- mids and bushes upon open quarters have been pruned and dressed, it is necessary to turn over the surface of the soil if only to destroy weeds and expose it to the pulverising influence of spring frosts; but this work in many gardens is sadly over- done. Once in my life I saw a man digging a heavy dressing of rank manure into a Vine border in a nobleman's garden, and in my own mind strongly condemned the practice, but in degree I question if this man on the Vine border was more out of place than he would have been on a square of Quince Pears or Paradise Apples. These fruits form wigs of roots on the very surface, and their disturbance or mutilation with the labourer's spade is fatal. Top-dressing and mulching, which keep down weeds, they may have, and a steel fork may be used for loosening the surface between the rows, but beyond this the less the soil is disturbed the better. Gooseberries, Currants, Kaspberries, and Strawberries, it anything, are still more sensitive, but the first and second being so subject to the caterpillar, the surface soil should be raked from beneath the bushes and burned to destroy the larvic. A good dressing with quicklime will then settle the account with any that remain, and at the same time kill Moss and Lichen upon the branches, ■when a top-dressing with fresh soil or rotten manure will finish the work as far as the space covered by the branches extends, lieyond this limit, digging can do no harm — possibly much good— on cold or heavy soils, whilst other.s which are thin, light, and subject to drought will be the better for an uniform mulching. The introduction of spade or fork amongst Raspberries at one time only is pardon- able, and that is when suckers a distance away from the stools are ready for removal. This done, the light mulch oft repeated is the best weed-killer, and certainly the most profitable pottle-filler. Strawberries that were well mulched or top-dressed in the autumn for the present may be left alone, but the time is at hand for giving old plantations light, but repeated broadcast sowings of old soot, to be washed in by rain. Soot is an excellent fer- tiliser, and being distasteful to slugs, which harbour in the old stools, three sowings at least may be made through February and the early part of March. New soot which is more fiery should be sown sparingly over the rows or stools, especially after the crowns begin to swell. If young plants have been upheaved by frost, advantage may be taken of the present dry time for treading firmly, when a rough cast of old Mushroom manure will do them no harm. The oechard. — All pruning and cleansing, espe- cially of large old trees, should now be brought to a close, but cutting down worthless varieties and preparations for planting may still be carried on. November is considered the best time for planting, as the roots then have time to take to the soil and the trees are less liable to be affected by a dry spring. This season, however, has been so exceptionally fine and the land in such excellent order, that few, I think, would hesitate even in December and January. Last year I planted a number of standard trees in a Grass orchard early in April, mulched well and watered once, and so well have they done, that I have decided on repeating this year on a larger scale. This driving the work so late into the spring is not altogether a matter of choice, as I have made a clearance of sixty cumberers of the ground, con- verted the butts into cordwood, and the branches into ashes — the best of all fertilisers in exhausted plantations. The ground cleared, new stations 8 feet wide, 2 feet deep, and 30 feet to 40 feet apart have been prepared in the following manner : The soil being stiff, but well drained, the bottom of each station was deeply broken up by steel forks ; the stake for supporting the tree as well as the three posts for forming the cradle were then fixed in position, and two cartloads of fresh soil from the roadside — an accumulation of years as well as a nuisance — worked in with the best of the old, have raised the mound to the height of 1 foot above the ground line. When settled, although there is no danger of the stakes sinking, the trees will be planted, mulched, and once watered before they are left to shift for themselves. The sorts are Blenheim Orange, Cox's Orange Pippin, Northern Greening, Hambledon Deux Ans, Hanwell Souring, Brabant Bellefleur, and Bramley's Seedling. Having already an abundance of early and mid-season sorts and plenty of store-room, we want a good supply of late Apples that will keep fresh well into the spring. It is easy enough in a good fruit room to keep early varieties for months after their usual season, but they get woolly and lose their sharpness, whilst four out of the six I have named do not reach their best before February. A few kindly Bitter-sweets have been headed back for grafting with the same sorts when the proper time arrives. This French Apple makes poor cider, but an excellent stock, and it would be well if thousands in this part of the country were converted into rent-payers by being grafted with better sorts. Now is the time to head back for this purpose, but not too close, as the more small branches the size of one's wrist and those furnished with old spurs for producing foliage are left for grafting, the better the chance of re- covery and the quicker the formation of a new head. Here we generally use two years' growths for scions and put on more than we actually require, our object being an abundance of young wood and foliage for carrying off the superfluous sap the first and second years. Many large trees are killed by being headed too close and the removal of every liit of spray and spur, when by cutting further away from the bole and working on a greater number of smaller branches, the shock would be less severe and the tree would quickly recover. The cost of putting on an extra score of grafts compared with the loss of the tree is trifling, and these superfluous growths make the best of all scions for future opera- tions. A whole batch of old, but kind stocks treated in this way with Blenheim Orange four years ago are now bearing trees with heads nearly as large as those of the originals. Peepahations foe gkafting. — If trees of mature age have not been shortened back to within a foot or so of the most suitable point for the inser- tion of the grafts, this work should no longer be delayed. Early in January the sap in Apples as well as Pears which are forwarder was flowing freely, a sure proof that it is high time to look after the wood intended for grafts also. When these are obtained from a suspicious tree, they should be well washed or soaked in an insecticide that will destroy woolly aphis, and laid in under the shade of a wall until they are wanted for use. Stocks in like man- ner may be scraped, scrubbed, and dressed, not only to free them from Lichen and insects, but also to expose the bark to the invigorating influence of sun, and rain, and air. When stocks infested with the aphis have been headed and cleaned, the scrapings from the ', stems as well as the lopped branches should be carefully cleared away and burned, toge- ther with hedge-trimmings, roots, clay, and other refuse, for forming the best of all fertilisers for application to the surface-roots of bearing trees in May and June. Headed stocks on Grass land may be greatly assisted by the removal of a few feet of turf from the boles, when the impoverished soil lying immediately below it may be forked out and replaced with fresh compost and a good dressing of quicklime. If these bare circles are unsightly the turf may be relaid — not otherwise, as the Grass soon impoverishes the new soil and robs the surface- roots of the trees of a great deal of moisture. The temperature, moreover, under a rank sward being lower than it is under friable compost, the replace- ment of the turf, especially in cold, heavy orchards, is an unquestionable disadvantage. These remarks do not apply to headed trees only, but to Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries in full bearing. W. C. Longr names for fruits. — There are some fruits which have names of greater length than could be ever adopted for common usage, but as they are varieties which will never find their way into general cultivation, they can afford to carry those cumber- some names for the little usage they will ever meet with. Such fruits are Baron Deman de Lennick, Jalousie de Fontenay Vendee, Edwards' Seedling Saint Germain, Delices d'Hardenpont of Belgium, Queen of the Low Countries, Twenty-fifth Anni- versary of Leopold I., &c. But there are other sorts of more merit, and which may become favourites in some localities, that deserve to be shorn of their heavy load, such, for example, as the excellent little Pear known as Bonne du Puits Ansault and the showy Pitmaston Duchesse d'Angouleme, the first of which is properly shortened to Ansault, and the latter to Pitmaston. The widely-known Duchesse d'Angouleme is commonly called Duchesse ; but there are several other sorts by the name Duchesse, as Duchesse de Brabant, Duchesse de Bordeaux, Duchesse de Berry, Duchesse d'Aremberg, and some others, and hence the greater fitness ot the name Angouleme. The common Louise Bonne of Jersey is in general usage cut down to Louise Bonne, but as there are two or three others of this name, it would be both more convenient and more correct to adopt the simply word " Louise," as there is no other Pear with this name. Josephine de Malines (which retains its excellent flavour till mid-winter, and is scarcely equalled at this season, and is always best when well grown) must have its name abridged either to Malines, or, as some colloquially call it, Jo-Malines. Among Apples, King of Tompkins County may properly be reduced to Tompkins, as the fact that there is a county of that name need not be announced every time the Apple is mentioned, and it is not specially appropriate to be ushered in as a King. The American I'omological Society has very properly made desirable changes in nomencla- ture, to which other changes may be properly added. Some of the new and valuable Strawberries liave been unfortunate in the length as well as in the bombastic character of their names, such ones, for example, as Monarch of the West, Miner's Great Prolific, Cumberland Triumph, Great Amtri- Peb. 11, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 127 can, Triple Crown, &c. More commendable are the simpleappellations of Sharpless, "Wilson, Manchester, Hovey, Downing, and others, which have not needed any grandiloquent adjectives to aid their popularity, as well as C. A. Green's new and promising variety with the modest name Jessie. — Couninj Gentleman. DESTROYING BLIGHT AND SCALE ON FRUIT TREES. JosT as the spring is the usual time for cleansing dwelling-houses, so are the winter months the most favourable for the thorough and radical cleansing of gardens. By this is not so much meant the eradication and subjugation of weeds, though the winter months are the best for these purposes, as also for the destruction of such persistent insect pests as those above indicated. These can hardly be suc- cessfully grappled with unless during the season of semi-dormancy, for the best of all reasons, that they are hidden by the leaves, and cannot be destroyed without injury to buds and bark when the trees are in a state of active growth. There seems but three modes of destroying these pests successfully, smearing them in, touching or shower- ing them to death ; the first is the oldest and the clumsiest method. Like not a few old-fashioned practices, however, it had its advantages, apart from the direct purpose for which the mixtures were applied. They were meant to kill all insects in- festing wood, bud, wall or trellis, and they assuredly cleared off all JIoss and Lichen and got rid, to a great extent, of earwigs, woodlice, and the larva; of many other insects. By using manurial matters in the mixtures many of the old cultivators also imagined that not only the buds were fed, but that nutriment was directly imbibed through the bark and wood. This is more than doubtful, but it is as certain that the manurial matters added to their adhesiveness — the latter proving a vital factor in their potency. So much was this the case, that the efficiency of not a few of the old cures for insects might be measured by the time they would stick on, and the closeness or firm- ness with which they hugged the branches, boughs, and stems. Most of the old mixtures, in which oils, soap, grease, tallow, or tar formed important constitu- ents, owed most of their potency to the close- ness with which they hugged the trees and the long time they adhered to them. The insects were, in fact, slowly, but surely killed. The poisonous constituents of such dressings as arsenic, nux-vomica, or nicotine were designed to hasten the process of destruction. But even most of the poisonous insecticides were mostly potent in the ratio of their thickness ; and hence the heavy white or other coloured washings to which trees and plants in the old times were subjected. But smearing may now be said to be virtually abolished in favour of the lighter andswif termethods of touching or sprinkling insect pests to death with spirits of wine, pure or methylated, tur- pentine, paraffin, and train oil. The first is the safest, the swiftest, the cleanest, and the best, and but for the extra cost the pure spirit of wine is to be preferred. Use a tmall cup or other handy vessel, pour out a very small quantity at one time, and keep the bottle closely corked, as the spirit is highly volatile. Dip a small brush in the fresh spirit and touch the blight, bug, or scale with it, passing the brush rapidly over^it. The effect on the blight or bug is prompt and peculiar. The white filaments disappear like snow at the touch of hot water, and the fleshy, flabby insects perish under the burning touch of the spirit. The influ- ence on scale is less rapid, but almost equally cer- tain. From the harder character of their structure and texture it is not apparent at the moment ; but it will be found if all are touched with the spirit most of them perish, and a second doze will seldom be needful. Turpentine is equally potent, but not so safe ; and paraffin, as generally sold, is about half-way between the spirits of wine and turps. It must, however, be borne in mind that all these, if applied neat, must be carefully used, and by no means carelessly applied. They are powerful reme- dies, and should be swiftly as well as sparingly applied, and so as to touch the insects solely or only, and the stems or branches as little as possible. The process of showering or syringing these in- sects to death is far less certain or safe, as well as infinitely more extravagant. Some may be disposed to call the last statement in question. They assert that the saving in labour will more than pay for the prodigal waste of material. In answer to this, it may be replied that, by applying such mixtures overhead, the material as well as the labour is often almost wholly wasted. StiU, certain mix- tures of nicotine, paraffin, petroleum, methylated spirits may be so used on fruit trees as to destroy American blight and scale. One of the readiest ways of preparing mineral oils is to thoroughly incorporate, say, a pint of petro- leum in a quart of boiling water, violently agitating the two with an egg whisk or syringe until the whole is whipped into a frothy liquid like thin cream ; add a pint of this to a gallon of water. Mix thoroughly and apply overhead with the syringe, or the concentrated mixture thus diluted may be applied with a brush more freely, as recom- mended for the application of spirits of wine ; in fact, the touching of these very troublesome insect pests to death is far preferable to any wholesale attempts to shower or wash them off. True, it is tedious, but then it is a saving of material, and every touch will carry death to a fresh insect or colony. Practice in such matters also begets dex- terity, and measuring up work by results is the only sure test of its value. I have no hesitation in say- ing that the touching of such troublesome insects to death is not only the surest, but cheapest mode of destroying them, while it may be pronounced absolutely safe for the trees, and ensures the cleanli- ness and wholesomeness of the succeeding crop of fruit. HOETUS. assumes in autumn, and for this alone they are invaluable in planting for ornamental effect. A well-coloured Scarlet Oak in October forms a glorious picture ; and what, again, can be more charming in May than the delicate primrose Trees and Shrubs. W. GOLDRING. THE BEST AMERICAN OAKS. Op the many Oaks which are natives of North America there are about a dozen species that can be recommended as suitable for planting in England ; the rest, though interesting to those who make a study of trees, need not be con- sidered in making selections for park or garden. This selected dozen can again be reduced to one half the number if only those are required that Leaf of Black Jack Oak (Quercus nigra). Quarter natural size. are very distinct. My selection would include the Scarlet Oak (Quercus coccinea), the Pin Oak (Q. palustris), the Willow Oak (Q. Phellos), the Laurel Oak (Q. imbricaria), the Black Jack Oak (Q. nigra), and the Chestnut Oak (Q. Prinus). These, all difl'erent from each other, as well as from the European and Asiatic Oaks, are quite hardy, of quick growth, and calculated to grow into fine tree.s in all but the poorest soils and wind-exposed places. One of the beauties peculiar to some of the American Oaks is the richness of tint which their foliage Leaf of Plane-leaved Oat (Quercus bicolor pannoea). Quarter natural size. tints of the unfolding leaves of the Pin Oak, a tree 1 would plant in every garden, if only for the exquisite tints of its leaves? Plant a Pin Oak near a Copper Beech, and let an early- leafing Lime be near, and you will have a pleasing picture in spring for a fortnight, especially if the background be that of Ever- green Oak, Holly, Yew, or some deep green Conifer. The Pin Oak (Quercus palustris). — From the name it would appear that it preferred marshy or damp places, but it is a mistake to infer from this that a swamp is essential for it. It grows well in dry sandy soils, and only last week I saw it growing luxuriantly in Hampshire near the edge of a deep railway cutting, which must obviously drain the soil of moisture. The light and elegant foliage of the Pin Oak makes it a remarkable tree throughout the year, and as its leaves change in autumn to Leaf of Scarlet Oak (Quercus coccinea macroyl:; 11 1). Quarter natural size. various shades of red and brown, it is the more noticeable. Placing the Scarlet Oak first, I should look upon the Pin Oak as the second best American Oak for ornamental planting. The Scaklet Oak (Qaercus coccinea). — So much resembling this in appearance is Q. tinctoria (ca'ltd 128 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. the Quercitron Oak of dyers, because its inner bark yields a dye), that one can hardly tell the diiference, and it need not be included in a selection, while its foliage in decay does not turn to red or scarlet, but to a coffee-brown colour. The Ked or Champion Oak (Q. rubra) nearly resembles the Scarlet Oak, although its autumnal tint is a dark brownish red, and not nearly so brilliant in this country as that of Q. coccinea. Mr. Anthony Waterer has, by the way, a wonderful new form of American Scarlet Oak that is superior to all the others in the brilliancy of its autumn tints. I saw some young trees of it in the Knap Hill Nursery last November, and though the foliage was past its best, I thought I had never before seen anything so striking in the way of autumn tints. The Tupelo and Liquidambar are dull compared with it. It is presumably a form of Qaercus cocciuea, but it may turn out to be some- thing different. Those who plant special groups for autumn effect (a practice much to be com- mended) should go to Kuap Hill to see it in October. I think it is not in commerce yet. Q. COCCINEA JIACROPHYLLA — a name given in nurseries to a form of the Scarlet Oak — has certainly a bigger leaf than usual, and Mr. Webb, the mmager of Messrs. Lee's arboretum at Isleworth, will tell you that it differs in other particulars. He gave me some specimens of it last year, and from a leaf in this nursery the little outline drawing given with this was prepared. The leaf measures 1 1 inches in length, by 7 inches in width. The young trees of it with their great leaves have a very handsome appearance, and if they assume as bright a hue in autumn as the ordinary form it must be indeed a fine thing. Another form in the Isleworth arboretum is called Q. coccinea borealis, the leaves of which differ from the ordinary form in shape, but are not remarkable for large size. The Willow Oak (Qatrcus Phellos) is so very distinct from all others, that on this account it is worth planting. There are some very big trees of it in this country in old gardens, and a venerable specimen at Kew is the admiration of tree lovers. Its leaves are about 4 inches or .5 inches long by about half an inch iu width, and look more like those of a Willow than an Oak; hence the name. It grows in the States of New Jersey and Kentucky as high as 50 feet, but it is a long time ia reaching that height in this country ; in fact, it cannot be recommended as a quick grower. I planted some young trees of it about five years ago, and I noticed last autumn that they had grown only about a foot It is not a common nursery tree, but good trees of it can be obtained. It is very twiggy, and its branches are horizontal and inclined to droop. The Laurel Oak (Q. imbricaria) is very unlike an ordinary Oak in its leaves, which, instead of being cut into lobes, are quite even and edged like those of a Laurel. It is an uncommon tree even in good tree collections, and in only a few nurseries in this country is it grown. At Lee's arboretum, at Isleworth, there are some good trees of it, from which I have leaves measuring '.i inches long, and in shape just like those of the Laurel. But the largest tree I have seen is that growing in Mr. Maurice Young's nursery at Milford. It is, I daresay, one of the fine trees that Loudon so often alludes to in his writings, for it must have been a big tree when Loudon used to visit the place fifty years ago. The tree has a dense head, rounded and symmetrical, and as it stands out clear from every- thing, it shows itself to the best advantage. The Black Jack Oak (Q nigra) has large and handsome leaves to recommend it. These are of pecu- liar shape, as may be seen by the accompanying out- line drawing of one. They are of a deep green colour with reddisli veins. I do not know much about this as an ornamental tree, but it is unquestionably a fine tree in a small state. Gray in his "Manual" says it grows from 8 feet to 25 feet high. A variety called nobilis in some nurseries is preferable to the typical form, as the leaves are larger and the tree is a stronger grower. It costs twice as much as the type, but is worth it. The Chestnut Oaks include Q. Prinus, Q. bi- color, Q. monticola, Q. pannosa among others. All are fine-growing trees, with large leaves cut into lobes in a varied way. These names are to be found in the catalogues of nurserymen who make a spe- ciality of trees, but the trees they have correspond- ing to the names are not always the same in different nurseries. The finest of them, I think, as an ornamental tree is what is called Q. bioolor pan- nosa— an outline of which is here given— a name now, I believe, "not kept up," as the botanists say, but is considered to be a variety of Q. bicolor, which again Gray puts as a variety of Q. Prinus. Anyhow, the tree is pretty well known as Q. pan- nosa in our nurseries, but Lavallee puts it as Q. bicolor platanoides, or Plane-leaved Oak, which is not a bad name, because the leaves resemble those of the Plane. The leaves of this Oak are very distinct, being covered on the under sides with soft velvety down. This character has apparently not been overlooked by botanists, as among its synonyms are Q. velutina and Q. mollis, both in reference to its downy or velvety leaves. It makes a handsome young tree, with a dense head, and its leaves are uncommonly effective, being almost as broad as long. The other American Oaks worthy of the planter's attention are Q. alba (the White Oak), Q. stellata, Q. falcata, Q. aquatica, and Q. cinerea (the Grey Oak). MAGNOLIA MACROPHYLLA. Of the varieties of Magnolia introduced during the last century, not many seem to have obtained a great amount of favour with planters, specimens being seldom met with, and (I suppose from the fact that the demand is very limited) many sorts are not to be found in the ordinary tree nursery catalogue. I cannot quite understand the neglect of the tree, for In its several varieties it meets many requirements. M. acuminata, for instance, is a capital subject for the large lawn or pleasure ground, and may be associated with such trees as the Gym- nocladus, Ailantus, Tulip tree, &c. M. macrophylla and tripetala are highly ornamental trees for the small la«'n or sheltered nooks in the pleasure ground, and glauca, purpurea, and others are very useful either as isolated specimens or for the mixed shrub- bery. M. macrophylla, although introduced from Georgia as far back as 1800, is the least known and the most ornamental of all. I know of no tree nor shrub, either indigenous or exotic, and considered hardy in this country, that can approach it for size of foliage. Our paiticular specimen was prob.^bly planted about 1840, and has attained a height of 35 feet, a girth of 2 feet 6 inches, and a spread of branches of 28 yards. There is not much to rcrom- mend it in its winter garb, as it presents a some- what naked appearance with its irregular outline and long, straggling shoots coming out at wide intervals from proportionately long, straggling branches. But in summer it is decidedly one of the most striking features of the pleasure ground, its immense leaves forming a dense canopy of foliage that has justly earned for it its synonym of the Umbrella tree. The indi\idual leaves average with us a little over 2 feet in length and about 8 inches in breadth, and I find they are considerably in- fluenced in size by the rainfall, being smaller, for instance, in the hot and dry summer of 1887 than I have ever noticed them. The flowers, which are produced in fair quantity, are of large size, averaging 10 inches across, nearly flat, and of a somewhat ragged appearance ; colour white, or rather a dirty white, with a tinge of purple at the base of the petals. I find they are described as fragrant, but with us the scent is hardly perceptible. If anyone feels inclined to give this Magnolia a trial, I would advise the .selcrtion of a spot well sheltered from the north-east and north-west, and, at the same time, well exposed to the sun, as the neglect of the latter precaution will have a prejudicial effect on the ripening of the wood and the pro- duction of flowers. In common with other Mag- nolias, the variety macrophylla does not seem very particular as to soil, as it will do fairly well alike in a moderately stiff loam, a sandy loam, or peat. In all cases where the subsoil is not first-class, and. indeed, with very few exceptions. It is advisable to provide at planting time a fair amount of prepared soil, say a good cartload to each tree, in order to give it a fair start. I find equal parts from a good heap of road-scrapings and old potting soil answer capitally for the purpose. Nearly all ornamental trees and shrubs take kindly to such a compost, and the good start made will lay the foundation of a handsome specimen. The tree is propagated from seed and layers. It seeds freely here, but I have not been able as yet to ripen the seed, nor have I heard that it has been done with any amount of success in England. E. Bueebll. Clarevumt. Japanese Allspice (Chimonanthus fragrans). — It was a happy thought to give this Chimonan- thus the specific name of fragrans, as its flowers have a fragrance which few possess, rivalling the delicious odour of the Stephanotis and quite as powerful. At this dull season it is quite refreshing to find a specimen, for we may travel far without find- ing our wish gratified. Although an old introduc- tion, it is, strange to say, uncommon, notwithstand- ing having merits of no mean order. There used to be a fine spreading plant on the wall facing the lawn in the Royal Horticultural Society's gardens at Chiswick, and the leafless twigs every winter from December to January were beset with the curiously formed, pale yellowish flowers. It could be detected, though unseen, loading the air for yards around with its heavy, penetrating fragrance. As much of the young wood as possible was laid in each year, the rest spurred back, so as to obtain as much neatness as possible, consistent, of course, with the proper treatment of the plant. The main branches were well spread out, so that a good space was covered. The way to propagate it is by the suckers that spring up comparatively thickly round the base of the main stem. It is a plant that would delight the amateur, and we hope will be brought from obscurity into the position it deserves. In small gardens there is generally a wearisome mono- tony of shrubs, resulting in a sameness that be- comes tiresome. Here, however, is a plant that will give pleasure all the year round ; it shows plenty of good foliage in the summer, and a profu- sion of deliciously fragrant flowers during the very time we want them, viz., December and January. I may add that it grows best on a wall facing south or west and in a deep light soil. — X. ■Varieties of Capressus Lawaoniana.— Of the hardy Conifers there are none which vary so much as Lawson's Cypress. It will be, as a rule, possible to pick out several forms that differ greatly from each other. Owing to this, the list of recognised varieties is a long one, and among them are some very distinct forms. In looking over a large and varied collection recently I noted the following as being some of the finest : C. L. erecta viridis is an erect-growing variety that never loses its character, and its lich green foliage enhances its beauty. C. L. intertexta is very different from the last, as the branches are stouter and less com- pact than in the ordinary form of Lawson's Cypress, while the habit of the plant is far more graceful. It has also a peculiar glaucous tint. This variety is well suited for planting as a single specimen ; so also is C. L. filiformis, which has long branches and branohlets. The last-named bears a very great re- semblance to Retinospora filifera. C. L. gracilis pen- dula is a free-growing variety, the branchlets being light and graceful, and the foliage is of a pleasing glaucous tint. C. L. lutea is the best of the yellow- leaved kinds, for it is vigorous in growth, and throughout the growing season is of a rich yellow colour, which is retained during the winter. The dwarf variety C. L. nana and its glaucous form are two pretty little shrubs that seldom grow more than a couple of feet high. They are well suited for plant- ing on rockwork or in any place where dwarf shrubs are needed. It is also noticeable that some strike from cuttings far more readily than others. The easiest of all to strike is erecta viridis, while the most difliicult is the loose-growing intertexta. The habit of the plant is a very good guide as to the diffi- culties attending its propagation, for, as a rule, the Feb. 11, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 129 compact-habited forms root more readily than those of a looser character. Though the varieties must, of course, be propagated either from cuttings or grafts, seeds of the ordinary type are readily obtain- able, and the young plants raised in this way are not only of good constitution, but also grow away quickly during their earlier stages. Lawson's Cypress may, when it grows out of bounds, be pruned, and if this is carefully done the graceful character of the plant will be preserved. — H. P. Myrtle-leaved Portugal Laurel. — This va- riety differs from the common Portugal Laurel both in habit and foliage. It is denser in growth and dwarf er; the leaves are narrower and altogether smaller. It makes a pretty dwarf bush, particularly suitable for planting in masses that have to be kept within certain defined lines. This is the variety that one sometimes sees trained into those prim conical specimens G feet high or more. For geo- metrical terrace gardens where strict formality is essential, these cone-shaped. Myrtle-leaved Portugal Laurels are well suited, as they require but little attention in the way of pinching to keep them in perfect shape. This variety is perfectly hardy, and stands exposure exceedingly well. — W. G. Ford's Evergreen Oak is one of the best of the numerous varieties of Quercus Ilex. It is more densely branched, and always has such a tendency to spread out horizontally that the branches sweep the ground. The leaves are much narrower than those of the common kind, more shining, and of a brighter green. It is so distinct that it may be at once recognised. I saw it last week in great per- fection at Cbiltley, Liphook, in Mrs. Robb's arbo- retum, which includes, I imagine, all the forms of the common Evergreen Oak besides the rarer species, such as Quercus gramuntia, Ballota, and virens, all of which seem to succeed well with her. It is to be regretted that there is such a difficulty now in getting in nurseries good plants of Evergreen Oaks especially of such varieties as Q. Fordi, &c. — W. G.' Pruning deciduous treea.—Mr. Goldring will hardly find gardeners generally agree with him if he proposes that all tree-pruning should be done in the summer and autumn. Apart from the many objections inseparable from performing work of that kind during busy seasons, and especially when it would create needless litter, there is the fact that pruning whilst the trees are in leaf is apt to induce the formation of numerous small shoots behind the cuts, and these unable to ripen prove of more harm than good. If there is one instance in which de- ciduous trees, and the Lime amongst the rest, have suffered from winter pruning, there are pro- bably thousands of cases in which no harm has resulted. Whilst the removal of a branch here and there which disfigures the outline of a tree may be desirable in the summer, it is obvious that syste- matic pruning can be best performed in the winter ■when the leaves have fallen. It is peculiarly objec- tionable to prune Lime trees in the summer or autumn, especially young ones, because these being shallow-rooted too readily feel the effects of drought and drop their foliage all too early ; therefore not a leaf can be spared during the leafy season. I should prefer to prune young Limes or similar trees, the branches of which needed regulating, rather towards the spring than in the autumn. Whilst in the latter case there would not be time for the bark to grow over the cat, the strong growth in the spring will help to that end admirably. After all, winter pruning is mostly a matter of convenience, because the work can always be done best when frost is prevalent and other labour is less pressing. Winter pruning may always be performed with safety after warm ripening summers, but after cold, wet summers the later the pruning is deferred the better. A. D. The Wis: tree, or Venetian Sumach (Rims Cotinus). — Not for a very long time liave I seen this peculiarly distinct shrub iu such good form as I did the other day when paying a visit to Down House, the residence of the late Charles Darwin, and iu the grounds of which it formed a tall, spreading shrub of the most peculiar appearance from the feathery blooms with which it was thickly covered. Although the flowers are small, yet the plant is one of great interest during the autumn and winter months. To anyone in search of a rare and peculiar shrub, I would strongly recommend them to pm-chase this pai'ticular Sumach. — A. D. Webster. AUTUMN COLOURING--" JACK FROST" NOT THE ARTIST. It is really surprising in these modern times that so many cling to the old and foolish notion that the autumn colouring of deciduous leaves is produced by the action of frost. I, too, was interested in the pleasant descriptive article of " B. C. R. " on these autumn-foliage pictures (page 474 of the last volume of The Garden), but, like "D. J. Y." (p. 496), I was impressed with the erroneous assumption of the writer as to the cause or agency of this glowing trans- formation of our landscapes. Many a writer has been moved to pen delightful pictures upon this theme, and ofttimes admiration for their pleasing imagery has led me to seek anew fur some plausible excuse for so much clever error, but all in vain. There is absolutely no founda- tion for any suoli theory. "Jack Frost," if I may be permitted thus to use the familiar per- sonification, is indeed an artist of great versa- tility and the highest possible ability. In proof of this we have only to look upon our window- panes on a sharp wintry morning, or step out- side and examine a tiny flake of snow, the full beauty of which no microscope yet invented has been able to reveal. And then the silvery sheen with which he gilds the trees and shrubbery, causing them to scintillate in dazzling splendour and defiance in the morning sunlight. An artist ! Aye, and a most consummate workman. And, despite all his blighting cruelty, proceeding from his native enmity to animal and vegetable life, we are compelled to admire the exquisite beauties attending his method. But he is iiuly an artist in " black and white." His icy touch upon the tender leaf only blackens it and hastens its decay. There are no gorgeous pig- ments upon his palette. His favourite imple- ment is the pencil rather than the brush, and at times he wields it ruthlessly always to the obliteration of colour. N(iw, if the autumn colouring of leaves was due to the action of frost, we would see a very different state of things. In the first place, every observant person knows that the leaves begin to colour long before the advent of frost every year. Weeks before Jack's hoary breath foreshadows his icy tread the leaves and leaflets iu every forest and garden have fully decided upon the tint they shall wear, just where the charming splashes of colour shall be, and just how the soft gradations shall blend into the cellular groundwork. In August, and even in July, in the latitude of New York, before any suspicion of frost, brightly coloured leaves may be found in every woodland, especially upon the Sumach, which is usually the first to colour. The only influence Jack can have is to out short the brilliant season of the leaf's existence by blackening its gorgeous robes, when it soon separates from the twig and falls to the ground. It is thus apparent that frost destroys rather than causes or induces any portion of these regal robes of autumn. Our prettiest leaves are secured before frost comes at all and before they fall from the tree. Once fallen, their beauty is half spoiled. No intelligent leaf-hunter will delay her fascinating ramble untU after a sharp frost. No ; I believe these garlands of simimer would colour and fall, attract and decay, just the same if frost never came at all. The leaf attains maturity ; it has performed its oflices in the de- velopment of flower, fruit, and vegetable fibre ; and it dies clothed in a glowing robe of glory. How and by what subtle influence these gor- geous robes are produced none can tell. There is, perhaps, no process of Nature where all is more mysterious than this very thing. The best conjectures of scientific men allude learnedly to the transformation of chlorophyl at the autumn season by the action of certain elements imparted to the sap of the tree or shrub at this period. But all this only complicates the pro- blem. Nothing is more beautiful in death than the leaf, and its entire life is a profound mystery. There it hangs in mid-air, carefully performing its ordained functions in the respiratory economy of Nature, and whispering its part in her grand symphonies ; and anon it is woven into a gorgeous chaplet for the crown of autumn, king of the year, presenting every colour of the spectrum and every shade of blended hue, challenging the admiration of the civilised world. Kiiiffsfun, N.Y. H. Hendricks. Crataegus liselandi. — Where protected from birds, this variety of C. Pyracantha still retains its berries in as bright a condition as ever. Taken altogether, however, it is one of the finest of our wall shrubs, as even should the beauty of its fruits be but short-lived, the neat evergreen foliage is ornamental at all seasons, and the clusters of white blossoms so freely borne in the spring impart quite an additional feature. That it will fruit freely in a small state is shown by some specimens which I recently saw not more than a couple of feet high, and heavily laden with berries. They had, however, been propagated from cuttings, which is the best way to increase the good varieties, as seedlings are apt to revert to the type. Cuttings strike readily if taken early in the autumn and dibbled firmly into some sandy soil protected by a frame. — H. P. Daphne Mezereum. — When we consider how valuable and well-knovpn an old garden occupant the above plant is, it may be considered fortunate that Louis Kropatsch has corrected the mistake " W. G." has made regarding the situation best suited for it. The latter says, " it particularly resents being overshadowed by any other growth;" while Louis Kropatsch rightly adds that this pretty shrub he found " in rather shady woods " in the Austrian Alps. This latter quite agrees with what I have noticed regarding its likes in its native wilds, or where it has become naturalised in abund- ance, and in planting, most gardeners usually assign to it a situation where partial shade is secured. Unfortunately, but particularly for amateurs, too much dependence must not be placed on the suita- bility of positions chosen for hardy plants at our great public garden— Kew; indeed, a friend and myself some time ago were not a little surprised to see there a specimen of the Chili Pine struggling for life beneath the shade of lofty trees, and where the Daphne Mezereum would have found a most congenial home. — A. D. W. The Iiily of the Valley Tree (Andromeda floribunda). — This low-growing- shrub is very beau- tiful when in the open border, or at the outside of large mixed beds of shrubs on the turf. It thrives well in good peaty loam, and does best on the most sheltered side of beds in cold or exposed situations, as it commences to bloom early in the year and is often injured by frost should the weather be severe. We have some bushes in a warm sheltered situation that make a grand show in good seasons, and form a fine contrast to the hardy Heaths with which the beds are edged. But it is as a pot plant for growing under glass that I wish to recommend it. This autumn I selected plants of this Andromeda that were well set with blooms and potted them, placing them first in a sheltered spot outside. They were put in a cold house for a short time, and then brought into warmer quarters as wanted, the tem- perature maintained being between 45° to 55° by night. I find the flowers come much whiter when the plants are placed at a distance from the glass. Flowering specimens are useful for conservatories, especially if these are dark. I have also found 130 the blooms useful for making wreaths, as they asso- ciate well with Christmas Eoses. The plants do not suffer when taken up and potted in large pots, boxes, or even when wrapped round with mats or bast, that is, provided they are kept moist and not forced too quickly. When the flowers open the plants can be placed in a cold house. All who re- quire a supply of flowers for winter and are short of room, &c., should give Andromeda floribunda a trial. All the Andromedas are beautiful, especially pulverulenta and Japonica. The last-mentioned wUl be a great treasure if it proves a good grower and is hardy. — J. C, Farnboroitgh. THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. Kitchen Garden. DEAC^NA IN GUERNSEY. The hardy Dracsena is often seen doing very well in the south and west of England or Ireland, but we do not remember to have TOO MANY VARIETIES OF VEGETABLES. For a long time past it has been felt that too lengthy li.sta of various kinds of vegetables are published. This, coupled with the custom pre- valent throughout the country of nearly every seedsman claiming a considerable number of Continental as well as home-selected novelties as their own specialties, has had, to say the least, a most bewildering effect upon a good many vegetable growers. It was bad enough about six years ago, but has grown worse since the introduction of a legion of genuine novelties. A weeding -out process is neces- sary, but who is to begin? The Chiswick trials are conclusive enough, and prove what Ilardy Dracccna iu Guernsey. Engraved for The Garden from a photograph by Lieutenant Horton, R.A. seen it growing so gracefully and vigorously as , a number of so-called distinct varieties may shown in the pliotograiih of this bush, taken | be classed as synonymous, yet no heed is in tlie Hon. J. .Sauiiiarez's garden in ( Juernsey, )Since the photograph was taken we hoar tlie j)lant has assumed (juite tlie iirojiortions of a tree, flo\voring and .seeding with great freedom. It is one of the few plants of its family whiuh gi-ow well in our gardens. CoUetia bictonensis.— Under this name I met with one of the Colletias in a Devonshire garden a few years ago. As the plant appeared to thrive within a few yards of the seashore, 1 have looked for it in other gardens, but without tuccess. I call attention to it now because I think it should be better known by those who reside in a good climate by the nea. The plant in question grows in the form of a low-growing shrub with spreading branches. I waw told that the original example was found in the gardens at Bicton, and was distributed by one of the Exeter nurserymen many years ago. — J. C. C. paid to the carefully tabulated results arrived at. Were it otherwise, and each variety was given its proper name, we might tlien be better able to discuss the merits of really improved varieties. As it is, all the new arrivals only serve to swell the lists, and every successive disappointing trial furtlier disgusts tliose who make tliem. A craving for novelties may have much to do with the advent of so many more or less distinct varietiep, but they would not be so readily forthcoming were it not for tlie chance it gives of high prices being obtained for them. I would respectfully urge the most noted and reliable seedsmen to he careful how they set the example of claiming every good thing as their own, attaching their prefix being, as I under- stand, a method of conveying that impression. The firm introducing a really "good thing" may be justified in connecting their name with it, and taking every credit for the same, always supposing that the real raiser has no objection to being in the background. When, however, it is discovered that about six claim a certain variety which may have originated on the Con- tinent, no English prefix ought to be attached to it. No doubt it pays to include so-called novelties in the various catalogues, but eventu- ally it will lead to a re-action among purchasers, these refusing any longer to purchase them, and as a consequence real improvements will not be given a trial. The bulb trade is much inter- fered with, owing to foreign competition, and if the English seedsmen lose their good name for straightforwardness or honest dealing, they will find that their Continental rivals will gradually steal away their seed trade also. One of the worst features of the case is the fact that exaggerated descriptions of va- rieties of vegetables very frequently lead to the swelling of various seed orders. I do not affirm that those responsible are now in the habit of increasing the sum total of the money spent on seeds, but when lesser quantities of well-tried varieties are ordered so that more novelties may be included, it is certainly a doubtful gain. By all means find room for what appear improvements on old forms, but do not hastily discard old favourites. The in- dependent enthusiast may grow as many va- rieties as he can find room for, but those who are not conijemed about names but know what is good when served and what is only middling object to almost daily changes. When too many and much varying sorts are grown they not only bother the cook, but the consumer is annoyed by these frequent changes, and this sometunes leads to unreasonable orders being given to the gardener. Thus one gentleman will have nothing but Telephone Peas ; another pins his faith on the good old Champion of England, and a third insists upon having Ne Plus Ultra both in and out of season. All are of excellent quality, but each has its season. Add William I. for the earliest sowings, the others in the order given, and a good supply will be maintained for a whole season. Order enough seeds for several rows of each, and de- pend on these and not the novelties on trial. Too many varieties of Potatoes are grown, and it is in connection with these that novelty lovers get into most trouble. Weekly changes consequent upon storing forty bushels in forty varieties inevitably end badly. Better by far depend upon four or six well-tried varieties, growing these in quantity and the untried novelties sparingly. Old Ashleaf, Myatt's Ash- leaf, Scotch Champion, and Magnum Bonum constituted the sole selection at one time grown in a large garden connected with one of the best establishments in this country, and if Champions could have been supplied all the year round the "family" would have been well pleased. The gardener was actually invited to grow them in frames on hotbeds. The Champion does not suit all soils, and others must be substituted ; but that is no excuse for forming unlimited collections. The vaiitties of runner Beans are also beifg added to, those having immense pods being in the ascendant. For exhibitieai purposes they are doubtless valuable enough ; but as regaida table quality, they are greatly inferior to the old scarlet, and, seeing how heavily the latter crops, it is surprising that it should have been largely ousted out by the coarser, long-podded varieties. Brussels Sprouts are deservedly popular, but they woulel not long have remained so if the Aigburth variety had superseded all others. Feb. 11, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 131 It is a sure cropper, but the sprouts are much too large and strongly flavoured. Plenty of other examples could be given, bnt I will conclude with Lettuces. According to the cata- logues, numeroiis improvements on the Paris White Cos and Black-seeded Brown Cos have been effected, but only a very few of them merit the glowing description.s given ; in fact, it is doubtful if there are any real advances made in this direction. Both, if given the treatment accorded to novelties, can be grown large enough and good enough for all purposes, and I find them of the greatest value all through the summer and early autumn months. W. I. SEAKALE. Ten acres of Seakale, the ground rented for the season ^at £12 an acre, shows that the culture of this root on a large scale is a costly business. Ten acres should give many thousands of roots, and only a grower in a large way could undertake the responsibility of producing so large a quantity, as, ere any profit is derived, the roots have to be forced in suitable places, an immense quantity of long manure being employed for the purpose, with, of course, a very considerable quantity of somewhat expensive labour being utilised also. The ground when Seakale is planted largely is first deeply ploughed and subsoiled, thus moving it to a depth of 15 inches. Then a heavy dressing of manure is added and ploughed in the ground, harrowed down, and rows marked out either with lines or by means of an ordinary field -marker. The sets, some 4 inches long, are prepared, carted to the ground in baskets, and quick hands dibble the holes, whilst women follow, plant the sets, and fill in. As the real grower in the above case forced his Seakale several miles away from the growing area, of course the cost of labour and cartage, even with the soil previously prepared by the farmer from whom the land was rented, was considerable. To have really good single crowns to the roots, it is advisable to have all duplicate crowns removed early in the growing stage. If that trouble is taken, the expense is added to. Then it is not possible to work the horse-hoe amongst Seakale, and hand labour in hoeing and cleaning, too, is costly ; still, it must be done. Presently the strong growth will smother the weeds, and the breadth is for the rest of the season fairly clean. Great labour is again needful in the winter in lifting the roots, for the leaves die off so late that the lifting cannot be well done until after the middle of November, and sometimes later. Seakale, like all tapering roots, cannot be ploughed out or even dug out rapidly, as Potatoes are. The roots have penetrated some 12 inches at least, and must be got out with care, for the branching rootlets are needed to furnish sets for the following year. Naturally, in the face of all the heavy charges in- cidental to Seakale culture in a large way, for the same course must be gone through each year, the cost of good forced Seakale heads must be consider- able. People sometimes advise cottagers to embark in Seakale culture, but they could only do so in a very small way ; they would be at their wits' end to find forcing material and space, and very likely be unable after all to find a profitable market. With- out doubt to the bulk of cottagers an equal area of Potatoes, Parsnips, or Cabbages would pay far better. After all, even the best of forced Seakale must have the best of cooking and dainty accom- paniments when served up to render it acceptable. In private gardens provision for an ample supply of Seakale must be made if the table of the household is to be supplied during a difficult period of the year with a vegetable which proves most helpful to all gardeners in its season. A. D. Potatoes. — Some Potatoes were cut in two. Holes were found in the middle, which rendered them totally unfit for table. There was, however, no outward mark or sign of the (disease?) imperfection. 1. What was the ciuse? 2. What remedy? — E. B. Milstead. *#* Kindly send samples and we will endeavour to assist YOU. — Ed. KITCHEN GARDEN NOTES. Value of wall bobdees. — The borders in front of garden walls are generally very closely cropped, more so, in fact, than any other part of the garden ; but it is not often that the ground Is utilised close to the walls. In most instances a narrow ungravelled walk is formed about 18 inches from the walls, and it is the narrow space between this and the walls that can be made to produce very serviceable early crops of vegetables. Instead of digging these narrow borders, loosen the soil, and on this place first a layer of half-rotten manure, and next a depth of about (i inches of good loamy soil. This being made fairly firm, it is then fit for the reception of a row of either Ashleaf, Early Border, or Mona's Pride Potatoes, these being planted 8 inches apart and about 5 inches deep, temporary protection of the haulm from late frosts being all that is needed. Radishes may be sown in front, and the bulk of these will be ready for use before the Potatoes cover the ground. If preferred, a row of American Wonder or Chelsea Gem Peas may be sown about 9 inches from the wall, and in front of these plant Early Paris Market Cabbage Lettuce. The Peas, being lightly staked, will not encroach upon the Lettuces, and both crops will be appreciated. Our sunniest borders are devoted to Kidney Beans and Lettuces, these being more in demand than either Peas or Potatoes. The former are either sown early or planted out from small pots, and in front of these the Lettuce just mentioned is grown. A narrow similarly raised border at the foot of a west wall is cropped with Brown and Hick's Hardy White Cos Lettuces, planted 10 inches apart, and in front of these there is a row of the Paris Market Lettuce, and a capital lot of salading results. Later on these raised borders may be occupied with Capsicums, Tomatoes, and, if need be. Beet, raised in heat and transplanted. Seeds to be sown undee glass. — An early start with several kinds of vegetables is a decided gain, and in many instances it is the best plan to sow the seed under glass. If it can be spared, either a two-light or larger frame should be set upon a gentle hotbed, inside of this being placed a firm layer of short heating material, and on this about 0 inches of sifted soil. Water the surface, divide into squares, sow the seeds thinly, and cover with fine soil. What should be sown at the present time are Cauliflowers, Veitch's Autumn Giant and Eclipse ; Cabbages (if there is a scarcity of autumn raised plants), EUam's Early Spring, Heart- well Marrow, Wheeler's Imperial, Defiance, or any other selected variety ; Brussels Sprouts, Ne Plus Ultra, Exhibition, Perfection, or Matchless, one or two varieties being sufficient ; Broccoli, Veitch's Autumn Protecting; Lettuces, Black-seeded Brown Cos, Paris White Cos, or one of the many selec- tions from the same ; and Early Paris Market and Perfect Gem Cabbage Lettuces. Give plenty of air after the seedlings appear, and draw the lights off on sunny warm days, thus producing a sturdy growth and hardening off the plants for pricking out in the open. Those who cannot afford hotbeds and frames ought to raise a few plants under glass at least of Brussels Sprouts, Broccoli, and Cauliflowers, and the rest if badly needed. The seed may be sown thinly in pans or boxes, and set either on shelves near the glass or in a cold frame or pit. Plants thus raised will be much earlier than any obtained by sowing in the open. Snow's Winter White Broccoli ought not to be sown until near the end of April, those plants raised much earlier being apt to develop into monstrosities. Large Leeks. — If extra fine Leeks are needed, and they cannot well be grown too large, a pinch of seed ought to be sown at once in a pan of fine soil and plunged in a gentle hotbed. When the plants are well advanced, set the pan on a shelf in a warm house for a few days preparatory to pricking them off into shallow boxes of [rich loamy soil. Keep them in heat till strongly rooted, when they may be hardened off and finally planted in shallow trenches prepared as for Celery. The Lyon variety grows to a great size and the quality is good. The monstrous Carentan is too coarse-grained. Scarcity of Onions. — Onions in many districts were not so large and plentiful as usual, nor do they keep well. As they are indispensable to the cook some steps ought at once be taken to forward as many as possible. Instead of throwing away all those that have commenced growing in the store room, these should be bedded out thickly in any convenient border, where they will grow strongly and form fresh bulbs. These are known as " seal- lions," and may be drawn, trimmed, and sent to the kitchen in advance of the autumn-raised Tripolis. Those who have a row or breadth of autumn-raised plants of The Queen and Golden Queen ought, on the first favourable opportunity, to plant them thickly on a well-enriched warm border, where they will bulb quickly. Seed of the former kind may also be sown in heat and planted out, and thus treated will be fit for use some considerable time in advance of any of the same or other varieties raised in the open. Many of the largest and best ripened spring- sown Onions to be seen at various exhibitions are raised in boxes or pans of fine soil in heat, hardened off, and transplanted to the open ground. For this purpose, those of the White Spanish type are to be preferred, these including Banbury Im- proved, Improved Reading, Naseby Mammoth, and Rousham Park Hero. Retarding Broccoli. — Few good heads will be cut from the open quarters during February, and when this is the case an undesirable glut occurs the following month, or it may be as late as April be- fore Broccoli is abundant. It is the large breadths of one variety that are the most troublesome in this respect, and rather than have too many avail- able at one time I prefer to transplant a portion to a north or north-east border. If all were of equal quality there would be no need to take this trouble, but there are four varieties that ought to have their respective seasons prolonged as much as possible. These are Veitch's Spring White, Leamington Model, and Late Queen. During the prevalence of dry, mild weather a portion of the plants of each variety most preferred on the table should be carefully lifted any time this month, with a good ball of soil about the roots and carried on hand-barrows to where they are to be closely bedded in. Open a trench across the west end of the bor- der, lay in a row of plants, sloping them to the west, cover the roots with manure, and on this firmly pack the soil obtained by opening a second trench, pro- ceeding in this manner till all are planted. The stems being buried will not be injured by severe late frosts, and the tops sloping away from the morning sun thaw gradually whenever frozen, while the roots take possession of the manure and assist in the growth of fine heads. The Leamington may be kept in this manner till late in May, Model and Late Queen keeping up the supply tiU near the end of June. Seed Potatoes. — These ought never to be mixed among " ware " Potatoes or those stored for table use, nor should they be neglected in any way. It is advisable to store seed Potatoes thinly on benches, shelves, orin trays, but all have not sufficient room for thus treating them, and various contrivances are frequently adopted to keep them from starting into growth too early. If stored in heaps or hampers in either rooms, outhouses, or cellars, they are certain to sprout prematurely, and a number of greatly weakened sets has to be planted in consequence. It is the Ashleaf section that is most injured by the loss of the first strong or central sprout, the side shoots being invariably of a much more weakly character, and these tubers, at any rate, ought to be stored on their ends in trays, shallow boxes, or flat baskets. This is advisable even if the first sprout is lost. All, both round and kidney varieties, ought to be thoroughly overhauled. Plenty of light and air ought to be admitted to them, warmth and dark- ness inevitably Inducing premature growth. Those left in the ground and well moulded over usually remain fresh and plump, sprouting much later than those lifted and stored. The best geeen winter vegetable. — It is a curious fact, and rather surprising, it may be, that tlie dwarf Ulm Savoy should be selected as the favourite wipter green, but such is the case with us. 132 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. We have a constant supply of either Cauliflowers or Broccoli, abundance of close and good Brussels Sprouts, plenty of Cabbage, including tender Cole- worts and Chou de Burghley. The last-named is uncalled-for, being far inferior to the Savoy under notice, and the latter is also preferred in the din- ing-room to either Broccoli or Sprouts. The seed was sown late in April, and the plants put out, 15 inches apart each way, on a good, open piece of ground. All through the late autumn and winter, or up to February 1, we have cut almost daily from this breadth, and there are yet a few more heads available. The Ulm Savoy is of dwarf, close-grow- ing habit, forming neat, well-blanched heads, which when boiled whole are very tender and mild in flavour. No other Savoy proves so serviceable and good, and room ought to be found for it in every garden. W. I. M. Orchids. W. H. GOWER. STENORHYNCHUS SPECIOSUS. This, one of the most showy of the West Indian Or- chids, is now flowering beautifully in Mr. Buchan's gardens, Wilton House, Southampton, and it is re- markable that, although so extremely showy and in- troduced to this country so long ago as 1790, it is seldom seen in cultivation. In my earlier days it was more frequently to be seen in collections, but usually in a very neglected state ; while even then it would produce quantities of flowers, so that, its scarcity does not arise from any difliculty in its management. The roots are numerous, very thick and fleshy, and from these the leaves spring in a rosulate manner. The inflorescence consists of an erect dull red spike, bearing a dense many-flowered raceme clothed with numerous brilliant red bracts, from which the flowers protrude in a similar man- ner to those of Bromeliaceous plants ; the footstalks of the flowers and the sepals are also bright red, the petals and the lip being pure white. The various members of this genus are all terrestrial, and this plant in its native haunts is found in shady woods and banks of streams in stiff loamy soils. Under cultivation it thrives best in a stiff loam, which seems to suit it when made very firm. When growing it requires an abundant supply of water, and when the leaves die away, which they do annually, less water should be given. Too often the roots are deprived entirely of moisture during the time the plant is dormant, the consequence of such treatment being that the plant gradually decays. It used to be largely grown in the Messrs. Jackson's nursery at Kingston, and should certainly obtain a greater amount of favour than it does at the present time amongst Orchid growers. I regard it as one of the \ery few showy West Indian Orchids, and it deserves a place in every collection. Coelogyne asperata.— This is one of the early introductions of Me-si^rs. Low, of Clapton. It has never become common. I recently noted a fine ex- ample of it in Baron Schrtcder's collection at The Dell, Kgham. An excellent illustration of this species forms the Sllth plate in the " Orchid Album" for December last. The plant is also known as ('. Lowi, and is said to require a high temperature and a very moist atmosphere. Dendrobiums in baskets.— Referring to the article on the above in The Garden, Jan. 28 (p. 77), growers of Dendrobiams should remember that the beauty of their plants is liable to be much spoilt by any interference with the position of the pseudo- bulbs when once the flowers are opened — that is to say, it is natural for the blossoms to expand with the lip below, not at the top of the flower, as in an Epidendrum. If a bulb of D. Wardianum, for in- stance, which has been hanging over the edge of the basket or pot is raised from its position by being tied to a stick, the effect of the flowers on their backs, their sides, or their heads is anything but as pleasing as it might be. The plants so often *iave to be moved when in bloom from their previous quarters, that it is worth taking the trouble before- hand to drill them ready for their inspection, and the frequency with which in a photograph one sees them in doubtful and inconvenient attitudes shows the necessity of attending to such a simple detail. — C. K. S. D. Dendrobiuta snperbiens is a native of North Australia and various islands in Torres Straits. It is one of Mr. Williams' introductions, and he says it is a most profuse bloomer, and that the old bulbs continue year after year to produce fresh spikes, evi- dent proof that the display of flower would be con- siderably reduced under the pruning system. The flowers are said to retain their full beauty for three months, and I have now before me a spray of this species which was sent me about the middle of December. Although I cannot say it is as fresh as ever, the flowers are in fairly good condition. The colour is delicate warm rosy purple. The plants require a very moist atmosphere and full exposure to the sun (" Orchid Album," plate 312). Cattleya eldorado splendens. — An excellent portrait of this beautiful Cattleya appears in the December number of the " Orchid Album." The sepals and petals are clear rose colour, the large cuoullate lip being deep orange in the throat, bor- dered with a band of white, and the front portion is rich violet-purple. This plant was introduced some years ago by M. Linden, of Brussels, from the district about the Kio Negro, where it passes into the mighty river Amazon. The country about there is somewhat low and hot, and consequently this plant requires more heat under cultivation than the majority of the kinds. It appears to remain scarce. Lselia snperbiens. — This grand plant is a native of Guatemala, where it is said to be called the Wand of St. Joseph. It was discovered by that indefatigable collector, Mr. G. Ure-Skinner, and in- troduced to this country about the year 1842, and for many years an immense specimen adorned the con- servatory in the Horticultural Society's gardens at Chiswick. It is a somewhat shy-flowering plant under cultivation until it has attained some con- siderable size and age. The above fact has led to its cultivation being discontinued in many gardens. A form of this species, however, now flowering in the Studley House collection would either appear to produce its blossoms in a smaller state than usual, or the result has been brought about by superior management. The bulbs are very bold and stout, and the scape is several feet in length, the flowers being borne on a clustered raceme near the top; the flowers are some 5 inches across, and the lovely penoillings of the lip are more beautiful than usual. The sepals and petals are of a deep rose colour, lip large, the side lobes yellow streaked on the inner side with radiating lines of purple, the middle lobe rosy purple, beautifully veined with deep crimson. It is a plant which enjoys full exposure to the sun, but very little artificial heat. — W. H. G. Oypripedium Marehallianum. — This is a perfect gem among the Slipper Orchids, and the fact of its having been exhibited before the com- mittee of the Royal Horticultural Society without receiving recognition is one more proof of the necessity of establishing a special Orchid committee to adjudicate upon these plants. The great number of gentlemen who grow these plants and are deeply interested in them, independent of the intrinsic value of the subjects exhibited, would fully warrant such a step, and it is to be hoped that this subject will receive the early attention of the newly elected officers of the society, as its adoption would doubt- less tend in a marked manner to increase its num- bers and render the society popular. This Cypripe- dium, one of the earlier hj'brids raised by the Messrs. A'eitch's, has from some cause become very rare ; indeed, the plant I recently noted flowering in the collection of Mr. Tautz, at Studley House, Shepherd's Bush, is the the only one known to exist at the present time. It is thoroughly distinct from any other kind. It is the result of a cross between C. venustum and C. concolor, and, like all the hybrids from the concolor section, is very slow growing. The leaves are dark green curiously marbled over the upper surface with deeper green, the flowers are large, the sepals and petals being particularly beautiful. The dorsal sepal is broadly ovate, white suffused with rosy pink and profusely covered with dots of deep crimson, mostly arranged in irregular lines, the petals being about 2 inches long, nearly an inch wide, and about the same width throughout, white suffused with rosy carmine, and dotted with deep crimson ; lip pale straw colour, in front dull crimson, the interior being also covered with deep crimson dots. It is evidently one of those kinds which require strong heat to develop its beauties.— W. H. G. RARE ORCHIDS AT KEW. Among the Orchids in bloom at Kew at the present time, Maxillaria aureo-fusca is quite out of the ordinary run. It is a small plant with round bulbs as big as pigeons' eggs and thick stiff leaves. The flowers are in shape more like those of Ada aurantiaca than Maxillaria flowers usually are. The colour, too, is uncommon, being best described as terra-cotta with pencilliEgs of brick-red, so that it is pretty as well as rare. Sophronitis violacea is a gem in its way, and is one of the very few Orchids having a peculiarly bright rose-magenta, or, as an artist would call it, a rose-madder. It is also a dwarf grower with egg-shaped one-leaved bulbs, and flower-spikes carrying from one to three flowers. It lasts a long time in bloom, and being so bright is noticed even among the crowd of other things. Being a native of the ( )rgan Mountains, it is grown in the cool house. Aeiides vandarum, also known as A. cylindricum, resembling in habit of growth Vanda teres and V. Hookeri, both of which it mimics by its quill-shaped leaves, seems to be per- fectly at home among the Cypripediums. The flowers, which are pure white, curious in shape, and chastely beautiful, are about 2 inches across and produced in pairs on slender footstalks. It seems to delight in a moist and warm atmosphere such as suits most East Indian forms. The lovely Saccola- bium bellinum is particularly fine in bloom. Many think it the most beautiful of all the Saccolabiums. Remarkable for its tininess is Angraecum hyaloides, which has dense little clusters of white transparent flowers — a contrast to its giant neighbours A. ses- quipedale and A. eburneum in flower on the same bench. In the cool house, Pleione humilis is note- worthy, being the only Indian Crocus in bloom, the others being past long since. It is a good deal like r. priecox, having pale mauve flowers, with a lip bearded at the edge and marked with crimson-pur- ple. Its chief value lies in its being the latest of all to bloom. Near it is Cattleya Walkeriana, a synonym of C. bulbosa, one of the prettiest of the dwarf species. Its sweet perfume adds to its value. Other noteworthy Orchids in bloom are Coelogyne lentiginosa, not by any means a common plant. It has a profusion of Pea green flowers, each lip being marked with bright orange. Among the Cypripe- diums is C. meirax, a hybrid that well exemplifies that the result in intercrossing beautiful species is not always satisfactory. The hybrid in this caseisnot so beautiful as its parent, C. venustum. W. G. SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS. Sophronitis violacea. — Thi.s is quite different to tlie ln'illiantly coloured S. gtandiflcira, and in it.s way qii-te fl.s beautiful. Eueh of tlie small pseudo-bulbs carries a narrow leaf, the scape bearing a dainty little rtower, almost round, and of a fine magenta bue— certainly more this colour than violet. It is one of the sweetest of winterHoweriDg Orchids. AnRrsecum eburneum.— This Orchid is In bloom now in several collections, and is one of the most robust and free- tlowering species of the genus. The racemes cany many tlowers. which appear upside down by reason cf the curion.sly twisted ovary. The ivory-white lip is the great feature. There is an inferior variety with smaller flowers named A. e. virens. Cattleya Trian» alba.— The pure white form of this magniticent Cattleya is flowering at Mr. Bull's, and though rare it cannot long remain so, now that Orchids receive such marked favour. The only colour in the flower is the lemon stain at the base of the fringed lip. A tine specimen in full flower must be a lovely picture. OdontogJossum blandum. — Of the many Odontogloseums that now have a place iu our plant houses this is one of the most beautiful. It has small Feb. 11, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 133 flowers; the sepals and petals nari'Ow, pointed, and beautifully freckled with crimson on a white ground ; the lip is of a similar colour, but the spots are larger. A small plant was I'ecently flowering at Mr. Bull's, Chelsea, and the wonder is such a gem is not more seen. But this is the fate of some kinds, notably the lovely O. cirrhosum, which was also blooming here freely. Masdevallia racemosa Crossl. — " A. D., Herts,'" at p. 86, says of this plant that it is a natural hybrid. I should be glad to learn his authority for making that statement, or, if it is a conclusion of bis own, how he arrives at it. I may say that M. racemosa is the proper name of the plant, Crossi being a garden synonym. There are extra good varieties of the species, and it would be simple courtesy to attach the name of Mr. Cross to one of the best of them, as I believe he tried more than once to get it to England wlien on his Cinchona excursions. — James O'Bhikn, Narroii-on-fhe-HiU. Dendrobium chryseum. — This is a pretty species, which I have not before noted in flower. The stem-like pseudo-bulbs are slender and erect, from G inches to 9 inches high, and bear near the top a pro- fusion of golden yellow flowers, which yield a pleasing fragrance. Although the individual flowers are not large, the plant is well deserving of a place in every collection, on account of the season of the year at which it blooms and the grateful perfume which the flowers emit. I recently noted it flowering with Mr. Taut/, at Shepherd's Bush.— W. H. G. Dendrobium Dominianum. — In giowth this pretty variety resembles D. Linawianum, and the flowers also remind one of that species, which for so many years has been grown in our gardens under the erroneous name of D. moniliforme. It is one of the Veitchian hybrids, and bears the name of the first Or- chid hybridiser, Mr. Dominy. The plant is the result of a cross between D. nobile and D. Linawianum ; the size of the flower is nearly that of D. nobile ; sepals and petals white, flushed with rose, and tipped with rosy purple ; lip white, tipped in front with rosy purple, and blotched in the throat with deep purple. This plant is flowering with Mr. Tautz at Shepherd's Busb, where it is grown in the intermediate house. — W. H. G. Saceolabium bellinum. — One of the prettiest Orchids in flower at Ke^vis this Burmese Saceolabium, which is grown in a small basket suspended near the light in the East India house. Tiie flower-stem is in- clined to be pendent, and bears three medium-sized blooms of the richest hues, and herein lies the great beauty of the plant. There is a combination of pure and vivid colours ; the sepals and petals ovate, fleshy, and thickly blotched, almost entirely covered, in fact, \\'ith rich brown, that shows up strikingly against the olive-green ground ; the upper portion of the lip is pitcher-shaped, fleshy, and blotched inside with lake, the expanded portion being pure white, and coated at the apex with short, thickened hair-like processes ; the centre rich yellow. It is a choice and dainty gem. Cypripedium nitens. — This is the result of a cross between C. villosum and C. insigne Maulei, and the beauties of both parents are remarkably well blended ; the leaves are similar to those of V- villosum; the lip and petals are also much like those ot the first-named parent, and they have that fresh varnished-like appearance which is so peculiar to villosum. The dorsal sepal is exceedingly beautiful and much larger than that of C. insigne Maulei. Nearly the whole upper half is soft woolly white, as in C. Maulei, and extends on both sides to the base in the shape of a broad border. The centre of the dorsal sepal is greenish yellow, over which are scattered in an irregular manner large spots of purple. It is a bold and handsome kind, forming a conspicuous object at a great distance. It is now flowering in the Studley House collection. — W. H. G. White Leelia anceps. — Two magnificent forms ot this species are now flowering in the Studley House collection, one named L, anceps Sohrtcderie, in which the flowers are very large, the sepals and petals broad and spreading and of the purest white ; the lip is also large, the front lobe very square and pure white with a yellow disc, the side lobes being heavily streaked with deep crimson. The other form is L. anceps Williamsi, and is scarcely less beautiful ; the sepals and petals are pure white, as also is the front lobe of the lip ; disc yellow ; the throat is white, bearing numerous broad streaks of deep crimson-purple. Both these forms, I believe. were introduced to cultivation by Mr. Sander, ot St. Albans, and appear to thrive under exactly the same treatment as the typical plant. — W. H. G. THE GLASSHOUSE GARDENER. The introduction of the greenhouse to English gardens was a great improvement, but, like other changes, it has cut in two ways, and not always bene- ficially. If the glasshouse always took its proper place in our gardens, we should have nothing to say. Few things can be more pleasant in the middle of our winter than the enjoyment of the flowers of warmer climates. If a man makes a garden in or near a town where he cannot grow outdoor things, a good way is to have a greenhouse. But in our country — a de- lightful one for gardening in — we can do so many things in the open air that the best conservatory of all is the open air. At one time our gardeners had no chance of displaying their skill indoors, but of late years they have become so possessed of the greenhouse idea that many of them despise every- thing else. A nurseryman was telling us the other day that youths of the roughest kind who came to him to learn their work, when asked what kind of place they desired to go to, always said that they would like to go where there is plenty of glass. It is very unfortunate for our gardens. A consequence is that it one has a beautiful outdoor garden for which a gardener who has a knowledge of fruits, flowers, and vegetables in the open air, is sought, it is often difficult to get one. The other day we offered a man a good place. He was out of a situa- tion and seemed anxious to get one, but when he heard there was no glass, and that it was an outdoor garden, his heart seemed to sink within him, and he gave it up. Many people pay attention to their hothouses and to nothing else, and do not even mind sticking a glass shed against some beautiful old house — a hideous mistake. No money is spent out ot doors except in simply keeping the place clean ; no trees are planted with any taste; no flowering shrubs, except the commonest; no grareful, lasting, hardy flower garden, but a common bit ot evanescent bedding out. It is natural, perhaps, that gardeners, under such circumstances, and not having any opportunities of knowing better, should suppose that the best of everything in gardening is in the hothouse ! A greater mistake there could not be. In any country with a mild or temperate climate the best gardens may always be made in the open air. A man ignorant of outdoor work is useless for any of the beautiful places throughout the country. If people's eyes are shut to the manifold interests that gardening ot the nobler sort may unfold to them, they do well to grow nothing but Orchids ; but it will be a misfortune if young gardeners are led to belie\e that such specialities are the only things in gardening worth doing. If we had any proper way of teaching gardeners, they would all be sent to the outdoor departments of a good garden before they took up the cultivation of hothouse plants. Now-a-days many peojile, thinking of a better system of gardening than the caiiiet-bedding and the bedding-out of the last generation or so, seek a man who can make a change for them, but it is not easy to find him. So, again, nothing is more important for the health and pleasure of a family than first-class vegetables. It is a common thing, we know, to talk about Covent Garden as the best of gardens. There can be no greater mistake. A well-cultivated kitchen garden, in which one can get fresh vege- tables and herbs, is one of the best investments that can be made in health, if in nothing else. In the case ot a family, how very important it is that one should have first-rate vegetables ! What a diffe- rence in the weekly bills, avoiding all carriage and all purchase, and being able to get the numerous things that in our mild and moist climate a good kitchen garden may afford. Few fairly appreciate its advantages, but people who keep houses in London and get all their supplies from Covent Garden know well that the bill is a very heavy one, and that the goods are far inferior to those which they get from their own gardens. We have often bought, regardless of cost, the best that Covent Garden could afford, and compared it with the pro- duce of a country garden. "The difference is enor- mous in favour of one's own garden. Some things, for example, Peas, are never tasted in proper condition at all in the market. How important it is then that a gardener should be a good vegetable grower ! Take, again, the question of flowers. How much more important is it that a gardener should know, say, the best Roses and be able to grow them well than that he should be an expert in some family of greenhouse plants! There is no reason why be should not do both, but hardy plants, that it well grown and well chosen adorn the open garden and attord plenty of cut flowers, should come first. No system of greenhouses, unless carried on in the most extravagant way by a millionaire, could equal a good garden of hardy flowers for eight months out of the twelve. Hence we say that people should resent this pre- tension to exalt the greenhouse and stove above far more important things, and should insist on gar- deners being trained in outdoor gardening as well as in the hothouses. — Fiehl. NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY. The annual general meeting of the members of this society was held on Tuesday evening, Jan. 31, at Anderton's Hotel, Fleet Street. The meeting was by no means largely attended. The usual pre- liminaries having been disposed of, the report and balance-sheet for 1887 were read and adopted. As evidence ot the progress that the society is making, it is only necessary to quote the following items : Members' subscriptions, flCii 10s. r,d.; donations, £149 Is. ; total income from all sources, £701 odd. The amount disbursed in prize-money at the three shows was £398 1.3s. (>d. The hon. treasurer, Mr. Starling, rendered his account of the reserve fund, which now amounts to £78 19s. id. Consols. New members and Fellows were then elected, and the secretary announced that Lady Lytton had consented to become a patroness of the society. The following societies having applied to become afliliated, it was resolved that their wish be acceded to : Wimbledon Chrysanthemum Society, Tooting and Balham Horticultural Society, and the Pem- brokeshire Chrysanthemum Society. The next business was the election of officers, which resulted in the following appointments President, Mr. E. Sanderson ; vice-president, Mr. R. Ballantine ; treasurer, Mr. Starling ; hon. secre- tary, Mr. W. Holmes ; following this the election ot auditors and members of the general committee. It was resolved that in future the floral com- mittee be constituted ot fifteen members, with the officers as permanent members, and that one-third of the members retire annually. The election of this committee was referred to the next meeting of the general committee. A long list ot special prizes and donatioDS was then read and accepted. Professor Alexander Dickson. — It has been remarked that no obituary notice of Professor Dickson, of Edinburgh,hasappearedin TheGakdsn. Will you allow me, as his cousin , to correct this Y Scotch and English papers have done justice to him as a land- owner, a botanist, a lecturer and friend of his class, but I have not seen his love of garden flowers noticed. Among his favourites were Pansies ; he h.ad some very tine sorts in his garden at Hartree, in Lanarkshire. Our best ones at Wisley came from there. — Geobge F. Wir.sox. Names of plants. — Salforth. — 1, Taconsia yar. cannot name unless we see flowers ; 2, Deutzia gracilis; ;), Kleinia repens ; 4, Acacia armata; 5, Kalosanthes coccinea. J. M. Wilson. — It is the ordinary form, and has evidently been grown well. The flowers ai'e always sweet-scented in this variety. ^— IF. Leach. — Azalea obtusa, a Chinese variety intro- duced nearly fifty years ago. A. Charlton. — 1, Calanthe vestita Inteo - oculata ; 2, flower arrived smashed. A. S. W. — India-rubber plant ; see The Garden-, Jan. 21 (p. GO). .7. He.— Ajiemone fulgeus flore-pleuo. Treeittrick. — Smilax tamnoides. 134 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 11, 1888. WOODS & FORESTS. THE HAWTHORN. The common Hawthorn is a hardy, useful and ornamental small tree, and forms a good standard on the lawn of a suburban villa or other places where the grounds are of limited extent. Notwithstanding its hardiness and great beauty, it seems to be a neglected and, in many cases, a badly-uaed tree. We often see trees of this species hacked and slashed in .such an unmerciful way by the hands of the ignorant that the sight cannot be otherwise than re- pugnant to all who have acquired the slightest knowledge of tree culture. The great rage, for some time back, has been for trees and shrubs of recent introduction, and I by no means despise the practice of giving them a fair trial ; at the same time 1 think that the culture of the Hawthorn might be extended and improved with the best results. It is an excellent tree for planting on vacant ground along railway lines, as it will grow on almost any kind of soil and in situations where many other trees and shrubs would perish. I was deeply impressed with the usefulness of this tree for that purpose whilst travelling on the Ulster railway, between Belfast and Lurgan, about the middle of last June. At that time the trees were loaded with their beautiful white fragrant flowers, and as I passed them they appeared as if mantled in snow, and attracted the attention and admiration of everyone. One great mistake in the culture of this tree for ornament is the pernicious practice of clipping the branches with a shears in order to form a uniform head, as when the trees are subjected to an annual pruning of this kind they very seldom 25roduce flowers ; con- sequently the principal beauty of the plant is lost. This is to be regretted, and cultivators should take note that the top can be kept in a perfectly uniform shape by using the pruning knife only. When the tree requires pruning, the strong rambling side branches should be cut back, and in doing so, the branches to be removed should be cut off at the base of a lateral twig. By this practice the top can be kept in perfect shape, and as the twigs and branches left are not interfered with, they produce their flowers and fruit in great abundance. This tree is also a capital subject for the town garden, and as such is largely used, but a great many cultivators complain that their trees do not flower, the cause of which and the remedy I have already pointed out. Although the Thorn is perfectly hardy, yet it is impatient of wet at the roots ; consequently the ground where it is to be planted should be thoroughly drained, more especially soils of a stiff, heavy texture, as well as those of a light mossy character. In addition to thorough drain- ing, this class of soil would be much improved by being dug up into rough ridges and exposed to the weather during winter, by which means the stiff', retentive nature of the soil would be broken up and rendered more fertile and pliable for the roots fjf the trees, while the mossy por- tions will be much improved by the reduction of the tanniu properties winch they contain. Both classes of soil would also be much bene- fited by a good dressing of lime. When the trees are planted as standards, the work of planting may be proceeded with when the ground is in proper working order any time during autumn, winter, or early spring. In mild, open weather the Thorn bursts into leaf early, so that I always prefer autumn and winter planting, and on no account should the work ))e delayed until the buds are beginning to move. In planting moss ground a little clayey soil should be incorporated with the staple, as it assists decomposition and renders the whole mass more fertile. Well-prepared young trees that have been specially trained as standards should be selected, always choosing such as have good roots, a straight clean stem, and a well-balanced top. In lifting the plants care should be taken not to cut or in any way muti- late the roots. Plant the trees very carefully, afterwards staking them to prevent their being wind-shaken. Those who are fond of variety may also jJant the double crimson, double pink, &c., all of which can be had at any nursery. The Hawthorn makes a very good hedge, and is largely employed for that purpose, and when used for the division of fields it aflbrds excellent shelter for grazing stock, while the numerous sharp-pointed spines form an efficient barrier against the inroads of cattle and sheep. Not- withstanding the usefulness of this fence, a person may travel in someparts of the country for miles and not see a well-kept Thorn fence. This state of things is to be regretted, for I believe in many cases the expense incurred in looking after and mending gaps exceeds the cost of pruning and keeping the hedge in proper order. The average cost of pruning an ordinary hedge being but Id., or at most IJd. per lineal perch, there is no excuse for such a system of mismanagement. Nothing gives an estate such a ragged and ne- glected appearance as badly-kept hedges. The best time to prune a Thorn hedge is the month of August — at least, such has been my practice for a great number of years, and with the best results. In planting a Thorn hedge the line of fence should be marked off and the ground trenched to a depth of some 20 inches or 30 inches, and about 6 feet broad, and in cases where the soil is of a poor, thin texture a good dressing of rich compost and fresh soil may be added with advantage, the quantity used to be regulated according to the circumstances. I have sometimes used well-decomposed manure, and although it gives the plants a good start, yet it is not so lasting as the fresh soil. Stout plants with good roots that have been properly prepared in the nursery should be used,- and may be inserted at a distance of about 5 inches or 6 inches apart trasts well with others of a more sombre appear- ance. In spring it produces a great abundance of beautiful golden catkins, laden with pollen, in con- sequence of which I have never found it necessary to fertilise the cones artificially. It generally pro- duces cones abundantly, these being of a pretty purplish colour, and ripe and ready for collect- ing about the end of harvest. This Pine thrives on any soil of ordinary texture, provided it is thoroughly drained. In soils of a stifE clayey nature I have found it beneficial to mix a little bog earth with the clay, exposing it for some time to the weather previous to planting. It is perfectly at home on peat bog, my practice being to mix a little soil with the bog at the time of planting. — J. B. DURABILITY OF SILVER FIR. With a view to test the durability for railway sleepers of the wood of the Silver Fir compared with that of the Baltic Pine, I made the following experiment : — On the 17th April, 1877, I had four Silver Fir sleepers laid beside new Baltic Pine ones on the Caledonian Railway line four miles north of Perth. On the 21st June, 1884, one of the four Fir sleepers was raised for the purpose of having it exhibited at the forestry exhibition held at Edinburgh. Al- though it had been seven years and two months in use, it was in a remarkably good state of preserva- tion; whereas, many of its Baltic Pine companions had been thrown out after being but six years in use. In August last, 1887, when renewing sleepers on the line, two of the remaining three Silver Fir ones were thrown out, the fourth being considered still fit to retain its original bed. As the success of my experiment seemed fairly satisfactory, I consider the result obtained worthy of all publicity,[forwhen it is remembered that the average duration of Larch sleepers is about eight years, it cannot but be re- garded as noteworthy that those of the wood ex- perimented on should have attained a duration of ten years and four months before being thrown out. But durability is not the only point in which the Silver Fir is equal to the Larch, for it luxuriates and produces sound timber on soils that will affect injuriously the Larch with dry rot, which lessens so much the ultimate value of Larch so affected. I do not know any coniferous tree (Abies Doug- lasi excepted) that equals the Silver Fir in pro- ducing bulk of timber per acre, for on reaching and extending beyond its fiftieth year, it outstrips all These may be had at the other Conifers in size. rate of about 20s. per 1000, and sometimes less, but a shilling or two extra is always well spent in procuring healthy, well-furnished stuff. The hedge should then be protected until it gets thoroughly established, and it is very important to keep the plants free from weeds for a series of years, and even in cases where no surface weeds appear I have always found the plants thrive better by breaking the crust of the surface occa- sionally during the growing season with a hoe. Although the Thorn is not grown as a timber tree for profit, yet the wood is of excellent quality, and is used by the turner and others for a variety of purposes, and I have never ex- perienced any great diificulty in selling good sound stuff' at prices ranging from 20s. to 30s. per ton. J. B. Webster. Pinus parviflora — This Pine, so named from the small size of the male catkins, which are very numerous and thickly crowded into a cylindrical spike 1 inch to 2 inches long, is indigenous to Northern Japan, where it attains an average height of from 25 feet to 30 feet. In_this country it has proved to be perfectly hardy, and when allowed plenty of room to extend its side branches it makes a handsome .specimen for a lawn, more especially in places where the grounds are of limited extent. Its habit of growth is conical. It extends its rather long and slender branches in a horizontal direction, and as these are well furnished with small lateral twigs clothed with abundance of rich glaucous foliage which it retains for three years, it con- In planting this tree great attention should be given to the selection of favourable sites for its growth. Humid situations should be avoided. On estates upon which my advice has been asked, I invariably recommend the planting of Silver Fir on suitable sites for the permanent crop, at about 14 feet apart, and filling in the intervals with Larch only, to 4 feet apart over all. When this mode of planting with Silver Fir and Larch has been adopted, and atan early stage of their growth, if the trees intended for the ultimate crop give indications of becoming healthy, the Larches may be gradually thinned wholly out, and the per- manent crop may consist purely of Silver Fir; or the plantation may be grown as a mixed one; or should the Silver Fir trees fail to advance satis- factorily, the plantation may entirely be made up of Larch. — William M'Corquodalb, in the Perthskire Consiitutional. SUORT NOTES.— WOODS AND FORESTS. Transplanting Larch. — Will any reader of The Garden say if it is possible to move with safety Larch trees 10 feet to 12 feet high ?— H. Poplar for timber. — I have for some years been sensible of tlie jirofit of planting the larger kinds of Poplars, for the wood of which there is now so much demand for railway breaks, i'C, and find the Abele Poplar grow rapidly in slieltered situations, but the Black Italian does better where the situation is more exposed. A damp clay or near the side of a runnel suits Poplars well ; and in all cases their light fibrous roots require the soil to be well loosened when the trees are planted. — R. T. THE GARDEN. 135 No. 848. SA TURDA Y, Feb. 18, 1888. Vol. XXXIII. " This l8 an Art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; but The Art itself is Nature."— SAoicsTieare. NOTES FROM SCARBOROUGH. What a lovely Carnation you figure to-day! Comtesse de Paris must find its way to Scar- borough when it is obtainable. As it is, I do not remember having seen its name before. Have you got a young plant or two of Clarisse f I know you agree with me in thinking it excellent in many ways. I find that Raby Pink, Beauty of Boston, Clarisse, Knapton Yellow, John Harrison, and several varieties of the old Clove are the only Carna- tions that really grow on for years and years without needing constant yearly propagation. Many excellent varieties (or indeed all) thrive under yearly propagation, but otherwise succumb to a hard winter, generally speaking. I shall be curious to know how far your ex- perience coincides after a year or two. No good white Carnation that I know of has ever grown here into a great mass 4 feet across, as the varieties I have named will do here. Gloire do Nancy requires starving, or its grossness destroys it, and I have never kept a plant for more than three years as yet, but hope to do so now. Anemone blanda (Ingram's strain) is per- fectly exquisite here, growing close to that handsome and hardy evergreen Fern, Lomaria chilensis, and with a bold clump of golden Munstead Oxlip just above it makes one think of April rather than Fe])ruary. Your Pear notes are always interesting to me, and I (juite think that Jargonelle should be a select Pear. For my part I do not like Bon Chretien or Louise Bonne in England, though I think the former delicious abroad. I fear there is no chance of any English-grown Pears being good enough for market at this season unless some new Phffinix should rise in wonder, for it is not warm enough in October and early November to properly finish the fruit before it is gathered. Once plucked, growers can only mature what they have col- lected. If we could ensure really ripening weather in October, generally speaking, then we could grow first-rate late Pears; but still, while owning fully and freely the inferior quality of English late Pears, I should be sorry to leave out Easter Beurre, simply because there is no other Pear at all that we can put on table so late in season and so sure in crop. Owing to our rather favourable autumn, w-e find it very pleasant, though, of course, far from the de- licious flavour of a Lyons or mid-France- grown Easter Beurre. Marie Benoist is, I fully expect, the best Pear for Christmas and early January, but it is newish, and not by any means well known. Has anyone praised it to you? We ate one on Christmas Day of our own growing, which really was as good as Marie Louise in No- vember, and about the same size, though wider at the base. Edward H. Woodall. CUT FLOWERS. To THE Editor op The Garden. Sir, — I have read "Veronica's" letter and the remarks following. As you ask for the "ideas ot some of the lady readers," I venture to send you mine on the subject of Bouquets versus Posies. Let me say at once that I consider posies a decided improvement on the old stiff pin- cusliion bouquet ; indeed, if well arranged, there can be no more suitable and becoming hand accompaniment to a pretty toilette. As to the nomenclature, the posy ''by any name will smell as sweet ! " Too odorous it should not be. But why change a name so suggestive of all that is charming I The word posy has a delightfully youthful sound, suitable alike to the young debitfante and to lajeiine Mariee, and it may even bring to the mind's eye of the quiet, but imaginative chaperone a pleasant picture. Often during the last two or three seasons, when I have been patiently sitting in a heated ball-room, has the sight of an apparently careleEsly - tied bunch of flowers, and the words, "Oh ! may I leave my posy while I dance," given me a sudden day-dream of an old English garden full of the dear old-fashioned flowers which supplied the posy of olden time. That posy I imagine to have been a bunch of flowers gathered, one here, one there, for the pleasure of the beauty or the sweet scent, or maybe for the association, like the posy gathered by poor, stricken Ophelia, and tied with a bit of thread or of ribbon. But the posy of modern days should be fashioned rather differently. It has a purpose to fulfil in the world of fashion. It is intended to be the last finishing touch to the full dress of the day to be worn at ball or fete. The flowers composing the posy should therefore be either in harmony in colour and kind with the gown and its artificial floral trimmings, or else in complete contrast. A hand- ful of flowers of one sort with its own green foli- age seems best suited to this purpose, though here and there may be exceptions, and it must be tied with a ribbon of suitable kind and colour. And here comes in the art. It should appear to be carelessly tied together, but in must in reality be so fastened, that it will not easily come to pieces. And the stalks must also be so covered, that they will neither discolour the glove, nor yet themselves suffer from contact with the heat of the hand. One of the greatest difficulties in posy making must be to choose the kinds of flowers suitable for the purpose. They must be sweet enough (unless perfectly scentless), yet not too sweet, and sufficiently tough to stand a few hours in a heated room. No doubt the reason for nipping off the heads of flowers and wiring them in the old stiff bouquet was to enable the arranger to twist a bit of damp cotton wool carefully round just under the petals ; and certainly those poor heads lasted fresh for a long time — longer, I think, than the more naturally arranged posy. Pei'haps the next triumph of the florist's art will be to invent some way of keeping the lovely blooms fresh without spoiling the graceful sim- plicity of the posy ; and as it is one of the prettiest fashions of hand bouquets that has ever been devised, I hope that it will find favour with the leaders and followers of the mode for many a long day. E. F. present. What we want is for our experienced readers to help us to say which is the next best Pear after the five chosen. What is No. 6 to be. Here are the chosen five : — 1. JARGONELLE. 2. MARIE LOUISE. 3. DOYENNE DU COMICE. 4. WINTER NELIS. 5. JOSEPHINE DE MALINES. Standard Fears for Britain. — We do not want any more "selections" of Pears at Rose Garden. T. W. GIRDLESTONE. STANDARD ROSES. In his interesting article on standard Roses in the " Rosarian's Year-Book," quoted on pp. 50, 51, Mr. George Paul sums up the whole matter in the one word " selection." The whole question of the desirability or other- wise of growing Roses as standards resolves itself into one of means to ends. If only growers would make up their minds before planting what they really want, and then sec wliat varieties of Roses there are that will fulfil their purpose, more fine standards would be seen in gardens, and the foolish and ugly proceeding of making a bed or plantation of "huge stems with small dwindling heads " set at equal distances of 2 feet or 3 feet apart would more quickly become as extinct as it deserves to be. If really great Rose trees are wanted for isolated and conspicuous positions, the number of available varieties is very limited, and recourse must be had to the Hybrid Chinas or the Dijon Teas and their hybrids; not that this involves any hardship, for there is nothing more beautiful than a great plant on a stem some 5 feet high of such aRose as Blairi No. 2 or Madame Plantierwhen sheeted almost to the ground with bloom ; they bloom but once a year, it is true, but then it must be held in compensation that the pro- fusion of their solitary flowering is not equalled, nor in most cases approached by the sum of all the flowers produced by an ordi- nary Hybrid Perpetual throughout the season. In addition to the above-named two varieties, which are both quite admirable for the pur- pose in view, there are one or two others to which Mr. Paul does not draw attention; one of these is Chem'Jole, a brilliant red Rose, still unique in its telling brightness of colour and most charming, and another is the Persian Yellow, whose masses of rich gold are un- surpassed and indispensable in the early sum- mer. Even the single Japanese Bramble- blossom Rose (R. multiflora) makes a most beautiful standard when worked on a tall 6-foot stem, and the flower continues in beauty for a considerable time. When it comes to autumnal bloomers that will make genuine trees, there are only the Dijon Teas and the hybrids that have sprung from them. Gloire de Dijon and Bouquet d'Or run a close race for first place, the former a little the freer, the latter the more beautiful — the handsomest, in fact, of the family; and for a pale yellow, in place of Belle Lyonnaise, which, as is justly pointed out, is too tender 136 THli] GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. ■'or a standard, the unduly-neglected Emilie ■Dupuy, almost identical in colour, may well be grown. There is, unfortunately, a lack. of first-rate red Eoses of sufficient vigour, for though Mme. Isaac Pereire "fulfils all the con- ditions," yet it is a rough, coarse Rose at best. But one very good one may be found in Eeine Marie Henriette (the one bright and pure-col- oured variety among the Hybrid Teas), which makes a fine head, and flowers exceptionally freely as a standard. Of those other Hybrid Teas, more happUy named the Noisettes, the evergreen white cluster Eose, Aim^e Vibert, quickly makes a handsome tree, and with the coppery Ophirie is especially valuable from its lateness in flowering. Eeve d'Or, often as glorious in young growth and foliage as in flower, is attractive throughout the season; and the unique bright orange William Allen Eichardson is immensely free and quite hardy. All these varieties have the great advantage of being so free in growth that their branches become sufficiently pendulous to hide more or less the point of junction of stock and scion, and so give the tree a more graceful and natural appearance ; for when any stifl-grow- ing Eoses are worked as standards, such as Baroness Eothschild— which otherwise grows very well as a standard and makes a large and healthy head, the transition from stem to branches is so abrupt that the effect in- the garden is anything but pleasing. "While mentioning the fact that there are few dark crimson Eoses which make good lieads, Jtlr. I'aul gives one or two which most amateuis fiud difficult enough to grow as cut- back dwarfs, but omits to mention several which have been conspicuous successes as standards. Of these Jules Chretien II. is a very distinct and handsome dark crimson, very free and constant, always expanding well, a good autumnal, and not much liable to mildew, and very vigorous and hardy. Prefet Limbourg is another fine crimson, which makes an immense branching head, and is one of the brightest-looking Eose trees in the garden either in summer or autumn ; and a third is Dr. Hogg, one of the seedlings sent out from Cheshunt(although horribly maligned in their catalogue), which has proved itself a thoroughly harily, vigorous, and reliable deep crimson Eose by no means dingy, but de- cidedly rich in colour. The.se three, with Abel Carricrc and Mr. Paul's own very useful Duke of ('(innaught, will probably be found tiic best of their C(jlour to grow as standards, for prince Camille de liohan gets terribly aillicted with mildew, and .lean Liaba\id is not very constant, and bums brown in the sun on very .slight provocation. If, however, one or two additional varieties are wanted, Mons. linncenne is exceedingly vigorous and free, although the form of the expanded llnwera is not so good ns that of some of the above, and Due de ]\Ionti)ensier is also a very strong grower, and there is smiie- times* a very rich dark .shade in its dazzling crimson flowers, which are developed' in ex- ceptional beauty in the auturfin. Mr. Paul's list of light Roses could not be improved on, with Boule de Neige, Mme. Lacharme, and Violette Bouyer for whites, and Duchesso de Vallombrosa, Princess Louise Victoria, and, of course, La France and Mrs. Bosanquet for lights, though, perhaps, to the latter might be added ]\Iiss Hassa,rd, wluch makes a large tree, and is very free and of a pretty shade of colour ; and the Bourbon Marie Pare, which deserves to he better known, for its pleasing flesh- coloured flowers, which are freely produced early and late, and are most attractive either in the cut state or on the tree. Everyone probably would uphold the recommendation of the reds, Charles Lefebvre, Glory of Choshunt, Dr. Andry, Dupuy Jamain, INIarechal Vaillant, (not always one of the most valuable, but very vigorous and bright), Ulrich Brunner, Duke of Edinburgh, John Stuart Mill, (none too bright, but an immense grower), (Jamille Bernardin, and General Jacqueminot, of which the handsome dark form Prince Arthur might, no doubt, be added, as well as Thomas Mills, Duke of Teck, of which some splendid standards have been grown, and Ella Gordon. Eugene Appert, too, although old, and with flowers expanding somewhat flat in shape, still deserves to be included, if only for its lanique crimson colour and glorious foliage. Similarly among the rose colours the de- lightful Anna Alexieff cannot possibly be dis- pensed with, making, as it does, the finest standard of its colour (which is the freshest rosy pink), always in bloom, and is among the hardiest and best-constitutioned of garden Eoses. Besides Jules Margottin, Alphonse Soupert, and Mme. Gabriel Luizet, Mme. Nachury makes a fine free standard, and grown in this form is bright and never coarse ; while "William Warden may well replace the somewhat dull Eose from which it is a sport, and which it resembles exactly in vigour and hardiness, only being far fresher and more at- tractive in colour. That among the best Teas to grow as stan- dards must lie included such varieties as Anna (Jlivier, Homere, Francisca Kriiger, Mme. Lambard, Marie Van Houtte, Souvenir d'un Ami, and Souvenir d'Elise is incontestable, but the omission of two such vigorous and handsome Roses as Caroline Kuster and Jean Ducher appears somewhat unaccountable, as well as the fact that in recommending the in- dispensable Safrano, no mention is made of its rosy form, commonly called Red Safrano, which is just as vigorous and free, and makes just as fine a head as the orange form, and in some places is even more popular for cutting. One of the greatest winter dangers to which standard Eoses — of Tea-scented varieties espe- cially, on account of the persistence of their foliage— are expo.sed is the risk of being liroken down by snow, and this danger is, of course, one which annually increases with the growth and extension of the plant, but though to ensure complete safety from .snow involves a somewhat elaborate method of staking, no trouble is great that will preserve a favourite plant from destruction, and it is better to be somewhat over-careful than to run the risk of having to deplore the neglect of simple pre- cautions. SHORT NOTES.— ROSES. Odours of Roses— "T. W. G." puts a query about this (p. Do). Few senses are so capricious as that of smell, and, therefore, possibly your correspon- dent may differ from me. Most Roses that are not sweet are, .it least, not disagreeable, and I shall not attempt a list of those that are otherwise ; sufhee it to say, that such Bourbons as Sir Joseph Paxton and Souvenir de la Malmaison suggest the odours named. But I would rather discuss the sweetest Boses with " T. W. G.," and suggest that he leads off on this more pleasant tack with the sweetest dozen. — D. T. F. Slauuiiag Bcses.— There is no plant that enjoys plenty of good manure more than the Rose, and a lack of this will always result in scraggy plants and miserable blooms. Mulching the surface over the roots in summer is all very well, but it is not half so good as placing the manure under the soil and close to the roots. All Roses are much benefited by being well manured immediately after pruning. Manuring should not be left until the shoots are several inches in length, as then the roots are active, and it cannot be performed without injury to the rootlets ; indeed, it is much better to manure Roses some time before pruning than afterwards. The manure from cows, horses, and pigs is very beneficial, while good artificial manures are also excellent.— J. M. Ferns. W. H. GOWER. HARDY FOREIGN FERNS. I WISH to draw the attention of the readers of TtiE Garden to a few of the hardy exotic Ferns which produce fronds so totally different from those of any of our native species, that a judicious admixture adds materially to the eflectiveness of an outdoor fernery. This is too much neglected by suburban residents, for there are frequently spots in small gardens where no flowering plants will succeed, and such places are often just the ones in which Ferns would thrive. Altliough the spot may not be large enough to grow an extensive collection, a judicious selec- tion of exotic kinds will greatly add to the effect. It does not much matter what the aspect is, but if facing the north or north-west, so much the better, as Ferns love shade. If the situation, however, is a somewhat sunny one, a greater supply of water will be necessary during the summer months. Although in a small spot such as I have mentioned above nothing grand can be effected in the way of rockwork, yet the surface may be diversified by the use of old bricks, burrs, and clinkers (the last are the worst), and such like things, and after having been arranged in position as irregularly as possilile consistent with providing accommoda- tion for the plants, they should be sprinkled or brushed over with a little cement. All this may he done and the place fully prepared at a mere nominal outlay. The next thing is the selection of plants to mix with the Britisli species, which are now supposed to have been planted in the pockets and crevices of the rockery. The Sensitive Fern of North America (Onoolea sensibilis) is a noble plant, and produces fronds of two kinds, both of which are totally distinct to anything amongst British Ferns; it is deciduous, and its fronds are produced annually from a creeping rhizome. These attain a height of about 2 feet when the plant is well established; the seg- ments are broad, more or less lobed, and bright green, the fertile frond being erect, scarcely so long as the sterile one, and the berry-like segments resemble a bunch of Grapes. It is a robust plant, and should be grown in loam and a little peat. Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 137 Tub OsTEicH-FEATHEii Febns form striking ornaments, and they also produce dissimilar fronds. Struthiopteris germanica is a native of the north of Europe, and is often called the king of the hardy Ferns. The rhizome is subterranean and widely creeping, often extending its runners for several feet and then throwing up its fronds, by which means it in time forms a dense miniature forest of plume-like, rich green fronds from 18 inches to 2 feet high. The sterile fronds rising in a circle round the crown arch outwards, whilst the fertile ones, which have all the segments contracted, rise in a cluster in the centre. It loses its fronds in the winter, as also does S. pennsjlvanica, which is a native of North America. Canada, and some parts of Northern Asia. It differs from the preceding in being more erect in contour, usually grows much taller, and is larger in all its parts, whilst the fertile segments are longer and very feathery in appearance. Anchistea vieoinica is another strikingly hand- some North American and Canadian Fein, which produces from an underground stem fronds from 1 foot to 3 feet in height and from Ij inches to 9 inches broad ; they are lively green in colour, the arrangement of the sori on the under side adding conside.'ably to their beauty. The fronds die down ia winter. The Eoyal oe Floweeing Feens are well re- presented in England by the grand Osmunda regalis, bet one or two others from America are distinct and handsome, as 0. cinnamomea, which, however. Is not confined to North America, as I have received it from the West Indies, and I believe it is also found in Brazil and New Grenada. It is, however, common in Canada, and plants from that country thrive well in the open-air fernery in Britain. The fronds are deciduous, the fertile and sterile being distinct, the latter attaining a height of 12 inches to 3 or more feet. They are from G inches to 9 inches broad, the segments somewhat glaucous, and the stems densely clothed with dull red woolly hairs. The fertile fronds are smaller, seldom ex- ceeding 2 feet in height, all the segments being closely covered with cinnamon-coloured woolly hairs. 0. interrupta, sometimes called 0. Claytoniana, is another handsome and singular species, which also loses its fronds in winter. The latter attain a height of 3 feet, and a breadth of nearly 1 foot when the plant is strong, the stems being woolly when young, but naked when mature. The seg- ments are broad and of a brilliant green. It must be borne in mind that the Osmundas are swamp or sub-aquatic plants, and therefore require abundance of water during the summer season. The Maiden-haie Fern of Canada and the United States (Adiantum pedatum) should never be absent from a hardy fernery. The fronds are from 1 foot to 18 inches long, the segments bright green, and the long stem is jet black. It is a decidu- ous plant. SHORT NOTES.— FERNS. Lomaria gibba. — Would you or any of your numerous correspondents inform me through your columns if Lomaria gibba is considered a hardy Fern in England, and if it has been known to stand planted out in the open border in England without suffering any damage ? — A. P. *#* Lomaria gibba is certainly not a hardy Fern in England, and assumes a very miserable appearance in a cool greenhouse in winter. — W. H. G. Adiantum decorum. — Like W. G. Marshall, in The Garde.v, February i (p. 102), I find this Adian- tum to be one of the best of Ferns for cutting, more especially if it is grown in a cool structure and well exposed to the light. As an ornamental Fern, apart from its usefulness for cutting, it occupies a prominent place, and when grown in a greenhouse temperature the bright tinting of the yonug fnmds forms a very attractive feature. In a higher temperature, however, the colour is not nearly so pronounced. I have a large demand for Ferns in small puts for indoor decoration, and find this is one of the best of the Maiden. hairs for that purpose, as not only does it stand for some time, but even small plants produce an abundance of fronds, which are arranged in a bold and regular manner.— T. FILMY FERNS AT BINFIELD HOUSE. Fjlmt Ferns, alihongh of comparatively restricted interest, are undoubtedly deserving of more atten- tion than they usually receive at the hands of Fern growers, and it is always with a feeling of gratitude for the many hints given by the late and deeply regretted Mr. J. Cooper Forster that one refers to the jastly celebrated collection which he patiently collected, and which at his death In the beginning of March, 1886, was left to his only son, Mr. Smart Foroter. These valuable plants, then known as the Grosvenor Street collection, were absolutely unique as regards either the varieties or the sizes of certain specimens. References to these plants were from time to time published, and always received the approbation of the owner, who always strongly recommended cool treatment for i them, and to whom the success in their cultivation in many private places as well as in Kew Gardens is prin- cipally due. It is to his repeated entreaties that a few years since a case suitable for them was pro- vided in that great national establishment. For years past Mr. J. Cooper Forster contended that, with very few exceptions, all the Trichomanes, Hymenophyllums, and Todeas might with advantage be grown in a temperature allowed in the winter to reach within a few degrees of freezing point, for, as he justly remarked, even those kinds from tropical countries are generally found in mountainous parts where they usually grow at a high elevation. There are certainly a few exceptions, which do not greatly affect his theory, as the result of his tuition is fully exemplified by the appearance of the majority of the Filmy Ferns, which have undergone a notable change for the better since their transfer from the warm to the cool department at Kew. While at Upper Grosvenor Street, where the atmosphere was by no means congenial to them, it was only by constant attention, carefully bestowed upon them by a most diligent observer and devoted admirer, that these plants were kept in perfect condition. They were, however, greatly admired by all Fern lovers, as they were also a source of constant re- creation to their owner, who possessed such a thorough knowledge of their requirements, and was acquainted not only with their names, but also with their various habitats, and, in many cases, with the history of their discovery, and was particularly fond of discoursing upon the same, thus imjjarting a most valuable and somewhat miscellaneous information to his visitors. Their present owner had a house built from his father's instructions and according to notions which that excellent cultivator had found was the most suitable for them. The structure, a lean-to with a walk in the centre, is sunk about 2 feet below the surface of the outside ground upon which the glass roof rests, so that there are no upright front lights. The house extends from north to south. In this way the Ferns have to be protected but very little from the sun ; the more so as the dwelling-house itself produces a semi-natural shad- ing. The central path is really a tank covered over with iron gratings and constantly supplied with water, producing a not very abundant, but constant amount of moisture, so beneficial to these plants. The house was also provided with a flow-and-return hot-water pipe in the event of very severe weather. I am not aware that this has ever been used. In such a structure not only does the temperature re- main pretty even, but the atmosphere itself is always moist and the advantages of such a combi- nation are seen in many ways, as, in addition to the healthy condition of the plants, the trouble they give to their owner is reduced to such a point, that the house being lightly shaded so as to produce a subdued uniform light, it may, during anyone's absence, be safely closed for several weeks without any harm resulting to the inmates. The rockwork, of which but a small portion is seen above ground, is made of huge pieces of sandstone cemented to- gether, and resting on a foundation so built as to render the under part completely hollow, and thus prevent the stagnation of water. With the exception of one specimen, all the Ferns have been planted out since the middle of May, l.sstj. Pnrirg that comparatively short period, and taking into consideration the reputation for slow growth of the majority of these plants, it is really surprising to note what progress they have made. Most of them had already last summer taken such a firm hold, not only of the ground, but also of the stones, that no one would have thought they had been planted so recently. This result of their unwonted vigour will add a serious dilBculty to the work of removal which is contemplated. As may be gathered from a note which appeared recently, Mr. Stuart Forster has generously pre- sented the collection to Kew, where it is to be hoped they will continue to flourish. It will be very interesting to watch the effect of the transfer, and if, as is confidently expected, the Ferns do not suffer from it to a greater extent than woidd other plants under similar circumstances, it will be one more good point in their favour, as two sudden changes within two years can hardly be expected to benefit any class of plants. If these operations do not seriously affect them, then it undoubtedly proves that the idea of their being too delicate for general cultivation is, as has been frequently shown, an erroneous one. Not only such species as the commonly met with Todea superba and pellucida, Hjmenophyllum de- missum, Trichomanes radicans, which are there seen in a state of perfection, but the most uncom- mon species, such as Trichomanes exsectum, T. javanioum, T. venosum, and especially the extremely curious and beautiful T. reniforme, are there in better form than anywhere else. The specimen of T. reniforme, which is the only plant remaining in a pan (all the others having been planted out), measures fully 30 inches across, and is a perfect mass of fronds, new and old, testifying not only to the good treatment received, but also showing the suitability of the spot selected for it by the innumerable rhizomes. These have extended on all sides over the rim of the pan, and through burying themselves in the material surrounding it, gather up additional strength as they grow and form a perfect mass of vegetation. The lovely little Trichomanes parvulum from Japan is another of the choicest plants to be found in the collection. It was imported acci- dentally some eight years ago on a block of wood covered with Dendrobium japonicum, and is still growing on the same block, from which the Den- drobinms have been detached. Its exceedingly pretty little miniature Palm-like fronds, of small dimensions, and of a particularly dark green colour, are very transparent, and are admired by all visitors. In Hymenophyllums the collection is particularly rich, for there are a couple of fine specimens of H. Forsterianum, a species which has the general appearance of a much-enlargf d H cau- diculatum, and which was also imported accidentally among some Cattleyas from Brazil. Then there are H dilatatum, chiloense, flesuosum, caudiculatum, asplenioides, pulcherrimum, pectinatum, &c., which are also very handsome specimens; but the rarest gems among the Hymenophyllums are undoubtedly the beautiful H. dichotomum, the curious H omen- tum, the downy H. obtusatum and asruginosum, the rare H. valvatum, and the beautiful H. pectinatum superbum, a variety which greatly surpasses in beauty the typical species. Besides the above- named Hymenophyllums, immense masses of the long drooping form of H. demissum, very seldom met with now-a-days, and of the lovely H. nitens and crispatum, as well as huge clumps of Trichomanes radicans and its varieties, concinnum, Andrews! and dissectum are subjects which will considerably improve the already very rich collection of Filmy Ferns, for which Kew will now be without a rival either in botanical gardens or in private establish- ments. S. Giubs destroying Ferns — I herewith send you some grubs which I have found in the soil of some of my Maiden-hair Ferns, the yrung fronds of which they have eaten away below the .--urface of the soil and nearly destroyed the whole plants. Will you kindly advise me as to the best methcd of destroying them 1 — J. B. *^* In reply to "J. B.." the roots of your Maiden- hair Fern are infested with the grubs of a beetle, the blac]j Vine weevil (Oticrhyncbus sulcatus), or 138 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. another member of the same genus. They are very destructive insects, both as weevils and grubs ; the former destroy the foliage of various greenhouse plants, and the grubs feed on the roots of Primulas, Cyclamens, Ferns, and various soft-rooted plants. I cannot suggest any plan of destroying the grubs but lifting the plants and picking them out. No insecticide is of any practical use. The weevils only feed at night, during the day hiding them- selves, so that it is very difficult to find them. They may be caught by placing the plants on which they are feeding on a white sheet, and in the evening causing a bright light to shine upon them suddenly; this will alarm the weevils, and they will probably fall, feigning to be dead ; if they do not fall, even after giving the plant a sharp shake, search the latter well.— G. S. S. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Algerian Iris (I. stylosa).— We have received flowers of this from Mr. Burbidge, Trinity College Gardens, Dublin. It has been charming in many Sussex gardens this spring. We have received from Mr. W. Gordon, Twicken- ■ ham, two Camellias, named respectively Lady Gordon and Lady Kekwick. They are both described as new, and, though single, have a good breadth of petal and excellent form. The first named is white and the other red. Camellias in Cornwall.— It is not at all an un- common occurrence for Camellias to be in full flower in many sheltered parts of Cornwall at Christmastide, but it is unusual for them to burst into blossom in the middle of January at such an exposed part of the country as Rosemouran, Galval,near Penzance. — W. Roberts. Orchids from Perth.— We have received from Mr. W. Macdonald, Woodlands House, Perth, N.B., a choice gathering of Orchids, including amongst other things a spike of the brilliant orange-red coloured Lselia harpophylla and a deUcately-tinted form of Cattleya Trian*, the lip pale purplish lilac, coloured inside the throat with orange. Primroses in Devonshire.— I send you a little gathering of early Primroses on this snowy February day (14th). Ground covered with snow and freezing hard.— R. W. Beachey, Kinffskerswell , Devon. *»* Accompanying the above were some excellent flowers of Persian Cyclamen. The flower trade at Scilly.— A very large consignment of flowers was brought over recently by steamer from SciUy, to the mainland. Mr. Richard Mumford, of Holy Vale, St. Mary's, shipped 6000 bunches of yellow Daffodils, whilst Mr. W.' Trevellick of Rocky HiU, despatched .3.300 bunches of yellow and white Narcissi. There were nearly 1000 " flats " of other flowers in the same steamer. Cymbidium eburneum.— Mr. Thomas Wheeler. Ihe Gardens, Jesmond Towers, Newcastle-on-Tyne, has sent us flowers of this beautiful Cymbidium, one of the finest of the genus. Its leaves are abundant, narrow, and deep green, from which the pure white fra- ^nt flowers stand out in hold relief. It is an Orchid that all who require waxy whito flowers should obtain. It lasts in perfection for some time. Leelia elegans Schroederiana— This was named hchro;dene in my note of last week (p. 133), as reported flowering at Mr. Tautz's at Sliepherd's Bush. The plant in question has a very large, bold, pure white flower, savmg numerous radiating lines of deep crimson mside the convolute side lobes of the lip. The specimen now flowering in the Studley House collection is said by Mr. Sander, its importer, to be the first that has flowered in this country. — W. H. G. Pansy King of Yellows.- 1 send you flowers of this variety to sliow what an early sort it is. (Jld plants have not ceased to bloom through the winter. The flowers sent are from young plants, and, though large, lack shape and purity of colour. This, however, 18 easily accounted for by the hard weather. It is the best of all yellow bedding Pansies. *,* A fine, rich yellow Pansy, the flower large and handsome. Chilian Crocus (Tecophylasa cyanocrocus).- There is every prospect, so far as I can see, of this very if n u"^ proving quite hardy. One year-old seedling bulbs, that have never been covered or protected in any way, are now well above ground and appirently quite unafEect«d by the spells of bitter weather we have had; 15 fact, they have all the appearance and seem as robust as seedlings of the common Scillas near by. — T. Smith. *#* A coloured plate of this beautiful flower was given in The Garden for July 16, 1881. White Hoop-petticoat Daffodil.- 1 have been rather successful with Narcissus monophyllus this year and send you a photograph of a plant in full flower. We are having extraordinary weather, almost summer, and no rain, bringing on things much too fast. — A. Rawson, Windermere. Ccelogyne cristats Lemoniana. — A speci- men of this beautiful white-flowered Orchid grow- ing in the gardens at StrafEan, Co. Kildare, is now bearing forty-one spikes of flowers. As thus seen, it is one of the very finest of winter-blooming kinds. Another excellent variety is the large form of C. cristata, which produces longer spikes of five to nine flowers, the sepals and petals being less undulated than in the type.— F. W. B. Flowers from. Glasnovin.- Mr. Moore, of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Glasnevin, has sent us flowers of Lachenalia aureo-reflexa, noted in The Garden last week (p. 113), the stem bright green and the flowers clear yellow. It is certainly a dis- tinct and handsome variety. There also came L. Nelsoni, rich yellow, the flowers at the apex suffused with quite a pinky tinge; and the yellow Cyrtanthus lutescens. These three flowers are most welcome at this season, all displaying shades of yellow. Veitch. Hemorial prizes for 1888.— We learn that the trustees have made the following grants of medals and prizes for the present year : Shropshire Horticultural Society, one medal with £5 in money for a collection of vegetables ; Glasgow and West of Scotland, one medal with £5 for Roses, and one medal with £5 for Grapes ; Crystal Palace, one medal with £5 for a collection of fruit; Hnll and East Riding Chrysanthemum Society, one medal with £5; Bath Floral, one medal with £5. The Lace-leaf plant (Oavirandra fenestralis)- — A very fine example of this living skeleton of a plant is now to be seen in a tank in one of the Orchid houses at Burford Lodge, Dorking. In these days, when it is too much the fashion to dis- card old plants, it is quite cheering to see such a specimen ; it has dozens of very large and broad net-like leaves, and daring the past season has evi- dently been flowering, as I noted numerous seed- lings amongst the shingle. This veritable wonder had been long known to exist in Madagascar, but it was reserved for the late Wm. Ellis to be the fortu- nate introducer of the plant in a living state in the year 1855, after a vast amount of care and anxiety. — W. H. G. Stanhopea platyceras is an Orchid that illus- trates the extreme beauty and singular, not to say grotesque, character that marks some of the members of thisgreat family. Thisparticnlar Stanhopea, which was recently blooming at Sir Trevor Lawrence's at Dorking, has a flower of large size, robust appear- ance, and delicious fragrance, while the colouring is distinct and beautiful. The richest portion is the pouch of the lip, which is of a lovely velvety crim- son colour, fading to the deepest possible purple, the front portion with the two horn-like processes being creamy white, sparsely spotted with crimson ; the long column greenish on the upper surface, the point purplish. The massive sepals and petals are covered with crimson markings on a buff and flesh- coloured ground, so that we have a variety of hues. It is strange that the Stanhopeas are still held in the background, though possessing distinctive cha- racters as regards shape, kc, and a strong fragrance, but the time will doubtless come when they will have a share of the popularity that is now accorded to the Cypripediums. An acceptable change in the weather. — A slight fall of snow on Sunday night broke the spell, and there is now a fair prospect of the short, but proverbially rainy, month of February doing something towards filling up our ditches. Yester- day (Monday) the sky looked heavy, and towards evening the welcome flakes again commenced fall- ing, continuing steadily through the night. Al- though 5 inches fell, the sharp wind from the north prevented a lodgment on the branches of our Ever- green Oaks and Conifers ; consequently, bo far we are safe and delighted with this thorough check upon vegetation. After a few hours' lull, the storm has again set in, and I hope it will continue. Snow, it is true, locks up land and labour and makes the townsman miserable, but for all this I question if this first instalment of the downfall, producing, as it does, a uniformly cool atmosphere, is not worth thousands of ponnds to the country. When the pre- sent month has redeemed its reputation, we may hope for still further showers, long enough and heavy enough not only to reach the lowest roots of our fruit trees, but also to fill up the wells, ponds, and streams in all parts of the country. Only the other day, when on a visit to a large domain in Yorkshire, the trout in a series of ponds, through which torrents usually rush from the hills were dying by scores for want of fresh water. — W. Coleman. The Oardeners' Orphan Fund. — Mr. A. F. Barron, of the Royal Horticultural Gardens, Chis- wick, writes : " I should feel obliged if you would kindly notice in your next issue, for the information of the hon. local secretaries who may be pleased to attend, that the meetings of the executive com- mittees have been fixed to be held on the last Fridays in each month (excepting March 30, which, being Good Friday, the meeting will be on the 23rd), at the Caledonian Hotel, Adelphi, 6 o'clock p.m. Nomination forms for the first election of six children to the benefits of thef and on July 13 are now ready, and may be obtained on application to me." Goethea Makoyana, formerly called Pavonia Makoyana, may be included in a select list of good winter-flowering stove shrubs. A good-sized flower- ing specimen of it in the Victoria Water Lily house at Kew is just now particularly showy. The flowers have an epicalyx or outer covering, which is cherry- red, while the rest of the flower is plum-purple, with a tuft of protruding stamens tipped with blue. The flowers are produced in dense clusters at wide intervals on the upright growing stems, and last a long time in good condition. In order to bloom well this shrub should not be pruned, but allowed to grow freely, so as to make stout stems. G. mul- tiflora, known also as Pavonia Wioti, requires the same treatment, and both are very useful when well grown. In nurseries they are known under the original name of Pavonia. Indian Azaleas in Wales. — Having been for some time a subscriber to your paper, I think, per- haps, you might consider the enclosed photograph interesting enough to reproduce in one of the num- bers. This white Azalea has been growing over twenty-five years in the open without any pro- tection whatever until the very severe frost in the winter of 1886, when a mat was thrown over it. This photograph was taken early in June, 1887. Never having seen this plant grown out before, I shall be interested to know whether you consider it at all unusual. — G. Campbell-Davts, Llanilarery, South Wales. *j* Many thanks for photograph of this beautiful Azalea, an engraving of which we give in this week's issue. It is pleasing to know that this fine old variety succeeds so well in Wales. — Ed. Notes from Oakwood,— One of the latest novelties at Oakwood is a miniature mountain modelled partly after Schiehallion, in Perthshire. When the question of planting it arose, I was fortunate enough to find Mr. Anthony Waterer disengaged, so we inspected and thoroughly discussed his dwarf Conifers in tlieir beds. I had no conception that he had such a number of beauti- ful forms. These and some species of Box, Euony- mus, Osmanthus, &o., were duly planted, and towards the base of the east side a collection of hardy Heaths, and in the same line on the north side a number of seedling Menziesias taken from our old Heath bed, where they sow themselves very freely. The west side of the mountain is planted with seedling Conifers grown in the wood from seed kindly sent me from the Himalayas. The north side slopes down to a bog, of which, so far, the only inhabitants are offsets from a large plant of Bog Myrtle brought by me many years ago from Perthshire.' So far all the plants look extremely well.— Geobge F. Wilson. Feb. 18^ 1888.] THE GARDEN. 139 WHITE AZALEA INDICA AT COOL- HURST. There are few plants or slirubs in our gardens that will produce such an intensely white mass of blossoms as this ; consequently the effect which it creates when seen flowering as shown in the engraving, is to a great extent diff'erent from most of the things which we usually meet with. Few plants give so little trouble when once established, and even though the late frosts 'may now and again spoil the beauty of the flowers, yet in the intervening years it is something to be grateful for. J have before this called attention to its habit of* growth when planted out and left alone, not much more than 3 feet or 4 feet in height, dense-growing and spreading, neither suggestive of a white um- brella lined with green nor of a gigantic sugar- hovering about, and that it woidd be a mistaken kindness to choose any place, such as under a south waU, which would tend to make the blos- soms open earlier in the season. We have some plants under a north wall which do admirably, but they seem to like association with other things and not to be spotted out by themselves in the open. The variety which does best here is the old typical white. Overgrown plants of other colours from the greenhouse have beeu turned out sometimes, but they do not seem so happy or produce so good an eflect. I cannot but think that a good race of hardy sorts might be raised either by hybridisation with some other species or by careful selection of sturdy growers. Perhaps Messrs. Isaac Davies, of Orms- kirk, might turn their attention to this point and render us indebted to them for treasures of Flower Garden. GLADIOLI CULTURE. The more that attention is drawn to this beau- tiful tribe of autumn flowers, the better it will be for its growth and for our gardens. Theories which have held their sway for a long time be- come exploded ; new facts with regard to their growth are educed, and as these are brought forward the difficulties of culture become les- .sened, and it would be a good thing if the eliciting of these facts should induce more ex- hibitors to come forward. There is, however, this diSieulty, that there is only one metropoli- tan show where encouragement is given to the Gladiolus, viz., the Crystal Palace ; while the prizes ofiered at provincial shows are so small, The White Indian Azalea in a wood at Coolhurst, Sussex. Engraved for The Gakden. loaf which has been packed in coloured paper, as some of the much-praised inhabitants of the Azalea house usually are. The engraving shows a bush over 10 feet across with a shadow thro^vii over the upper part by a tree of Magnolia acuminata, which grows at the side. ( >n the south-east is a large clump of Rhododenilrons, &c., completely cutting oft' the morning sun, and behind it are Hollies, Rhododendrons and Spiraea flagelliformis. This, perhaps, may give some idea of the posi- j tion it occupies and apparently is satisfied with, namely, shelter from cold winds and too fierce a sun on the flowers or on the roots. Anyone who intends to plant this Azalea should remem- ber that it flowers naturally at a time when there may still be late frosts and cold winds this description. It would be worth while, as the eflfeot produced by Azalea indica is far more distinct from that of mollis or any similar variety than one might expect. The photo- graph from which the engraving is made was taken last year, not because the bush was flowering more freely than usual, but because an opportunity presented itself by the kind- ness of a worthy friend. C. R. SCEASE-DlCKINS. Will someone kindly recommend what they have proved to be a good top-dressing for lawns ? A com- position of soot, wood ashes, fine earth, &c., would be preferable to London manure, as there would be little labour afterwards in sweeping. The lawn here is about 4 acres in extent. — W. that they prevent any but those living in the immediate neighbourhood from coming for- ward, for, while money will not be the chief consideration, yet there must be some hope of paying expenses, or at any rate a portion of them. Although exhibitors were to "sweep the board," they could not hope to pay ex- penses with the few shillings to which the prizes amount. Gladioli are not by any means easy flowers to carry to a show, and require a good deal of personal attention in transit, and yet one sees the same amount of money oftered for Asters as for them, the Aster being the most easily carried of all flowers, except Chiysanthemums, and a half-crown packet of seeds being . perhaps the amount of expendi- ture—not half, perhaps, of whit has baen paid 140 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. for one bulb of Gladiolus. I do not, however, wish to convey a wrong impression as to the price of these bulbs ; a great change has taken place in this respect, for while new varieties are brought out at higher prices perhaps than ever, they much sooner drop in value, while good ex- hibition varieties can be purchased at a price which no one begrudges for Hyacinths, although they have to be thrown away, while the Gladio- lus will reproduce itself, unless attacked with disease, which all growers of the flower must expect. With regard to soil, I become more than ever convinced that, while Gladioli will grow almost anywhere, they thrive best in a calcareous soil, and least on a soil containing much humus. My attention was first directed to this point by Mr. Burrell, of Cambridge, and I was enabled to try the experiment in my own garden, for although I am in the midst of the chalk forma- tion, a portion of my garden has either been made with other soil, or else the continued cul- tivation of it for perhaps hundreds of years has led to its being full of decayed vegetable matter. I found a good deal of difl'ertnce even last year between the growth of the bulbs in this as com- pared with a portion of the garden where the soil had been less highly manured and was more calcareous. So much do I feel this, that I am going to fork in some lime in my beds. I take this opportunity of replying to "W. .T. M.," who appeals to me in The Gardes, Jan. 28 (p. 76), on one or two points connected with tlie culture of these bulbs ; one was about the bulbs that every year keep coming up amongst my Roses, although it is ten or a dozen years since I grew any there, and as to whether these were from seed spawn or old bulbs. In answer, as far as my knowledge goes, entirely from spawn. There may have been one or two instances where I omitted to take the bulb up, and then it reproduced itself, but still it was from spawn originally ; but in the great ma- jority of cases they were spawn bulbs. There is, I find, a good deal of difference in the appear- ance of the corms, whether they are from old corms or spawn. In the former case the base of the corms is large and exposed, where, in fact, it has grown on that of the preceding year ; whereas in the spawn it is small and gathered in, as it were, so as to present a very different appearance ; and it would seem that the French growers, Messrs. Souillard and Brunelet — Sou- chet's successors at Fontainebleau — send over in a great measure what I call spawn corms, doing thus much as the Hyacinth growers do — growing them up to a certain age, and then exporting them in what they believe to be their prime. We have found out that Hyacinths will do well after they have bloomed if properly treated and transferre 1 to the open ground ; and although it was at one time thought that the French bulbs of Gladioli deteriorated after the fir.st year's blooming, 1 am convinced that it is not so, but, on the contrary, that as fine blooms can be had after they have been grown four or five years in England, and that the corms increase in size. There is a curious fact connected with this. In looking at Vilmorin's catalogue for the present year, it will be noticed that, while he inserts the two varieties Hercule and Leila, he puts opposite to thera mawiHK, implying that he has none for sale, ani yet in Messrs. liurrell and Caiiipbell's lists b:)th varieties are inserted, and I can testify that their bulbs are very fine and healthy. This is, I should think, sufficient evidence that the varieties do not deteriorate, and that they only require proper soil to continue healthy and vigorous, barring disease. 1 am very much inclined to think that the Gladiolus can stand a good deal of frost in the ground, and that those which I left in the ground as an experiment all the winter were killed, not through frost, but wet and the attacks of worms of one kind or another. I am confirmed in this by the experience of those which have come up amongst my Roses. If they succumbed to frost, they would assuredly have perished, especially as we know it is the habit of all bulbs to come nearer to the surface each year, and, as a matter of fact, I found some of these within 2 inches of the surface, which is, of course, not half as deep as one would plant them, and which must have brought them much more under the influence of frost. But that is a very difterent thing to taking them out of the ground and leaving them exposed to its influence. I im- agine there are a good many hardy things that would not stand this ordeal. I cannot understand why " W. J. M." should have any prejudice against cutting the corms when its success has been so fully testified to by growers who know so well what success means. For myself, I can bear witness, as I have already stated, that some of the very finest blooms, plants, and corms were the result of cut corms. Thus, with me Grand Rouge, Giganteus, Came- leon, and others produced grand spikes of bloom 5 feet high, the corms when lifted being large and healthy. One bulb of Shakespeare I cut into three, and the result was the same ; and, moreover, never in one instance where the corm has been cut do I recollect it lying dor- mant, as is often the case with whole corms. Let "W. .J. M." dismiss his prejudice, and he will, I think, find the advantage in every way. There is one sentence in your correspondent's letter which, I fairly own, puzzles me : "Where hundreds or thousands of varieties are grown, as at Langport or Fontainebleau, cross-fertilisa- tion is probable, and the variety wanted to be reproduced may come from seed quite diffe- rent." What does it mean ? I have read it backwards and forwards and upside down, and can make neither head nor tail of it. Does he mean that a hybridiser wishing to increase his stock (say of Meyerbeer) crosses flowers for the purpose of obtaining it >. If this be his mean- ing, I confess that it is something to me quite new in the art of hybridising. I know that hybridisers may set a certain object before them, such as to get a blue Primula, and, taking ad- vantage of any tendency in that direction, may go on step by step to success ; but having done .so, I can hardly imagine that the same end would be obtained through some difi'erent channel. If this is not his meaning, I confess that I cannot make out what it is. The time for planting Gladioli is at hand, and therefore, if anyone's stocks. are low, or if they wish to add new varieties, no time ought to be lost. Bulbs keep well, and my experienee is that where one i.s sound at the time of lifting it does not go off afterwards ; but where it is at all diseased, the disease is sure to spread. I have thus far potted about two dozen which were more or less affected, and mean, if they do start, to plant them by themselves and see what is the result. Delta. A useful plant for garnishing.— This is the Syrian Curled Mallow (Malva crispa). It is a hardy annual, easily grown and most useful for garnishing purposes during the summer season. Seeds of it can be purchased from any seedsman, and to secure a succession, seeds should be sown at, say, three different times between April and July. A fair- sized patch will produce a large quantity of leaves, which are of a dark green colour and of good size when the plants are well grown. It forms a sym- metrical pyramidal growth, and produces white flowers. I remember that some years ago the late Mr. James Cuthill, of Camberwell, recommended Malope trifida for the same purpose ^ it is also a very useful hardy annual, and makes a handsome border plant, and produces pretty striped flowers. The leaves are not so much curled as those of M. crispa, but they are useful in the absence of the latter. Malope grandiflora is one of the very finest and most striking of hardy annuals, producing an abundance of large crimson flowers of a very attractive character. All that I have named can be sown in the open ground, and therefore easily cul- tivated.— R. D. Lifting Gladioli. — With reference to the com' munioation of Mr. Murphy on this subject in The Gaedbn, Jan. 28 (p. 76), I did not misunderstand " Delta's " remarks on the hardiness of Gladioli^ and I quoted a sentence from his article to show that his experience was exactly the same as mine, which is, that self-sown corms (/ c, the produce of spawn) will live in the open ground and produce flowering bulbs, when those which were planted and purposely left out all the winter invariably died. If Mr. Murphy will turn to my note in The Gabden, Jan. 7 (p. 8), he will see that I wished to know why self-sown bulbs will survive the winter in the open ground while the others do not. In no way, therefore, can it be even inferred that I considered Gladioli to be hardy, although in some cases they prove so, and I am disposed to think that in the case of the self-sown corms it is because they are deeper in the soil than would be the case with those which were planted. I hope to test this matter next year by putting the corms 7 inches or 8 inches under the surface and letting them remain through the winter. With reference to the bulbs which come up and flower every year on the space sown fifteen years ago, they are, of course, the produce of spawn, as are others which come up and flower in diCEerent parts of the garden. — J. C. C. Dahlia cuttings. — During February it is neces- sary to place D.*hlia roots on a brisk bottom-heat, whether produced by hot water or by means of manure. A layer of soil should be placed over the manure, and the roots put on this and half covered with soil, leaving the upper portion of the tubers, and especially the crown, bare. If on a bed heated by hot- water pipes placed underneath it, then slates should be put on the pipes. The soil should be put on the slates, and the roots put in position as above directed. As to the time the roots are put in heat, this must depend to some extent upon the number of cuttings required. The cuttings can be taken ofE when they are 4 inches long, cutting them through just above the eye nearest the root. The first cut- tings are often too large and hollow in the stem, and may be thrown on one side, those that are smaller and harder being the best. When taken off they should be placed in light sandy soil in pots, and the pots plunged in a moist manure heat. At this season it will be four or five weeks before they root, but as the days lengthen and the weather be- comes warmer, three weeks or so will suffice. As soon as the cuttings have rooted, they, should, be potted into small pots, kept close for a time, and then be gradually hardened off. — R. D. Notes from Temple Hill, Cork.— In the pri- vate villa gardens facing the sea at Queenstown, Cal- ceolarias, Pelargoniums, Lobelias, Ageratums, &c., are just the same as they were last October, and are now growing apace. At my grounds. Temple Hill, Feb. 5, all sorts of Snowdrops are in abundant bloom, as also the Primroses, including the hybrid coloured varie- ties and the early sulphur double form. This latter would be of great value in winter for market growers if planted out not later than September in frames near the glass. Anemone fulgens is in full bloom, Chionodoxa Lucilia;, also C. sardensis. Winter Aconites are over. Iris stylosa is still sending up quantities of richly perfumed flowers. In sunny positions the large yellow Crocus and Triteleia uniflora are well in bloom. Among the Narcissi, Paper- white, elatus fl.-pl. of Italy, and N. romanus fl -pi., Ard-Righ, pallidus priecox in quantity, and the major form, discovered in Portugal last year, are in Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 141 full bloom. Telamonius plenus of Italy (four years at Temple Hill) is also in bloom, and seems to re- tain its early character. The beautiful little white N. Corbularia has done well and flowered freely against a south wall. In shrubs, we have the crim- son and white forms of Pyrus japonica in full bloom. Azara microphylla and Jasminum nudi- florum have been beautiful since Christmas. Pyrus malus floribunda and Prunus Pissardi with the Peach trees on the walls are full of buds. In the cool house two large pans of Narcissus cyclamineus are beautiful. The illustration in the Jloianical Magazine does not do this little gem ample justice; many of the blooms are beautifully flanged at the rim, and the colour is a rich clear yellow, not that dirty brown tinge as figured ; while the smallest bulbs bloom to perfection. All the white Trumpet Daffodils, of which we have a large and promising array, will also flower this month. — W. B. H. THE RANUNCULUS. This beautiful plant was well known in English gardens at least 250 years ago, but it had evidently been imported from Holland, where it was much valued. Van Oosten, a Leyden gardener, wrote about it nearly 2110 years ago, and his work was translated into English and published in 1703. In those days single varieties were not despised. Van Oosten says : " There are two sorts of Ranunculus, single and double. The double ones are of one colour or striped. In the striped we have all sorts of colours, black and white striped with several colours, and the same is also in the single ones. This flower is admired because of its beautiful high colours, that dazzle one's sight when the sun shineth on them." A dealer in Fleet Street, named Mason, published a catalogue of 400 varieties of Ranunculus in 1820. These were principally Dutch sorts, for it was not until 1815 that the raising of seedlings was begun in England ; and, as usual, when Englishmen under- take any work, they speedily make their mark, and show themselves independent of any foreign source whatever. In Scotland the work of raising new varieties was begun about the same time. In fact, Mr. George Lightbody and Mr. John Waterston, who were the most successful of the Scotch raisers, produced a strain of named varieties somewhat different from that obtained by the Rev. W. Williamson and the Rev. W. Tyso in England. The flowers were smaller in size, but of very symmetrical form, and they may even yet be obtained under the name of Scotch Ranunculuses. I have grown them in my own garden, but they are not vigorous enough. Some of the very best varieties were raised both in England and Scotland at the beginning of the year 1810. So greatly were they esteemed at that time, that as much as a guinea was paid for a single tuber of the new varieties. Now 200 tubers of named varieties may be purchased for that sum. The old florists used also to take great pains in the preparation of the ground where the tubers were to be planted. According to their idea, no garden ground was good enough for Ranunculi, and the first operation was to clear all the soil away to the depth of about 2 feet, and to fill up the space with a prepared compound such as we would prepare for a permanent Vine border. Another supposed necessary arrange- ment was a canvas awning to shade the flowers from the sun, and this could only be supported above the plants by some sort of wooden frame- work, which would be an unsightly object in any garden. As the old florists insisted on this pre- paration of the soil and the necessity of careful shading, many persons would prefer to grow plants that did not entail so much expense. After 1850, the bedding-out system became quite a mania, and the beautiful Ranunculuses were utterly ne- glected. It will soon be time to plant out the tubers, and those who are fond of such flowers need not be afraid to plant them out in any good garden soil. It is better to dig the ground up in the autumn, in order that the frost may act upon it, especi- ally if it is of a clayey nature. Early in March is a good time to plant out the tubers, and at that time the ground is not always in good con- dition, as it is frequently frost-bound or too wet. Under such conditions the best plan is to level the bed with a fork without treading upon it. Some finely-sifted, dry, sandy soil from the potting bench spread to a thickness of about 3 inches over the surface of the bed will be an excellent medium for planting the tubers in. It will also be necessary to plant the tubers at about an uniform depth. They do best when the crowns are as nearly as possible 2 inches below the surface, pressing them into the ground with the fingers and placing a little fine, sharp sand under the tubers and a pinch over the crowns, and then filling in the drills with the back of a rake. The Ranunculus is not very particular as to the soil in which it grows, but it seems to take most kindly to a moderately clayey loam with a clay subsoil. This class of soil retains the moisture best, while drought is detrimental to the successful culture of the Ranunculus. Ours were planted rather late last year, and as the early part of the season was cold, the tubers did not flower until nearly the end of June, when intensely hot weather set in, and even with careful watering the blooms speedily dropped and the leaves became yellow. As soon as this takes place the tubers must be dug up, for if they should get soaked with rain, after the ground has been dried up and made hot by the sun, a heavy shower of rain will start them into growth in a week, in this respect resembling Ane- mones. I merely dig the tubers up with the soil attached to them, and spread them out to dry in an airy shed ; in fact, all ours have been left where they were placed after being dug up, and they will not be cleaned now until just before they are planted out. I find a large number of the tubers have in- creased fourfold. The semi-double varieties produce seeds freely enough, and seedlings produce the largest number of blooms ; in fact, I grew some very choice named varieties — which were obtained from an old Lanca- shire garden — until they degenerated so much that scarcely any bloom was produced. This is just what might be expected, as every class of high- bred plants degenerates more or less in the course of years. Seedlings flower most profusely the second year, and the way to obtain a good strain is to pull out all from the bed that are considered to be in- ferior, and mark a few of the very best to save seeds from. By this system of selecting the best va- rieties annually from seedlings only, a strain of a vigorous habit and bearing flowers distinct in colour and form from any others in cultivation is obtained. It was by this system of selecting seedlings that the old florists improved their strains, and in the course of a few years they worked up a class of flowers distinct in several respects from those they first started with. J. Douglas. Saxifraga Burseriana. — Among the beautiful flowers that remind us of the approach of spring, none are more welcome or more highly appreciated than the charming little alpine that forms the sub- ject of my note. It was introduced from Carinthia about the year 1 82(5, and, notwithstand ing the al most total neglect of hardy plants between then and now, Burser's Saxifrage has been one of the favoured few tolerated. Although this plant does better and yields greater abundance of flowers in the north than it does in the south of England, still, when properly handled and planted so as to avoid the direct rays of the sun during summer, it does well. All our attempts to establish it on a rockery with a southern exposure have proved futile, and the third or fourth season sees the last of it ; while from the same batch of divisions those planted on a northern ex- posure have increased with surprising rapidity, and annually hide their Janiper-like leaves with their sweet pure white blooms. Even in a wild state, I am told that the variation it shows is considerable, so that the collector is ever on the watch for forms with larger flowers than the ordinary type. Among those found in a wild state on the Austrian Alps, that called S. B. major is by far the best. It seems to have flowers of finer substance than those of the commoner kinds, and blooms with us at least a fort- night earlier in the open air. There is said to be a variety with a five-flowered stem, but we have never seen it in gardens. There is, however, another, called Boydi, found, I believe, by the gentleman whose name it bears, having creamy or pale yellow flowers, and as it is also an early bloomer, it proves a decided acquisition. In propagating Saxifraga Burseriana, our mode is to select one of the strongest and healthiest tufts, lift it about the middle or end of August, and break it up into suitable pieces for 2r},-\nch pots, potting firmly with a few small stones or pieces of brick round the neck. Place the plants in a cool, shady frame kept close until they begin to root. By spring they will have become esta- blished, when they can be either planted out or kept over another year to make larger examples. Loam, leaf -soil, and a little peat, with a liberal ad- mixture of small pieces of soft brick and lime rubbish, is the compost used. — K. Carnations. — If Carnations andPicotees in pots have generally wintered as well as my own, there is little room for fault-finding. They have been in a cold frame all the winter, and, with the exception of two or three nights, the lights were never entirely closed, but tilted so as to admit a free circulation of air. Not a sign of spot or rust is visible, and this is equally true of named varieties and seedlings. All the latter and some of the former will be planted out in the open ground at the end of the month or early in March. The ground to be planted was deeply dug and ma- nured early in November and then thrown up rough, and it is so far in excellent working order. The soil in which I grew some specimen Chrysanthe- mums has been mixed with good loam and leaf mould, and this will be used to place about the roots when the plants go out into their summer quarters. They will be planted firmly, and any shoots that are liable to be blown about by the wind will be secured against danger. The young plants are now commencing to grow. It is time that some of them went into their blooming pots, that is the two dozen of select varieties that are to be grown in this way. Some rich fibry yellow loam, as soft as silk to the feel of the hand, some leaf mould and well-rotted manure from a spent Mush- room bed were thrown together at the beginning of the autumn, and the mixture has had the benefit of frost, wind, snow, sun, and rain. It is in admirable condition for potting purposes. March is the month when potting is generally done, but some growt-rs commence in February, according as their plants require it. Amateur cultivators who are engaged in business during the day have, of necessity, to do their work at odd times, and so the potting up of a hundred or two plants has to be spread over a con- siderable time. I am in favour of early potting, for I like to know the plants are well rooted in the blooming pots by midsummer. Previous to potting the plants should be overhauled, and thoroughly cleansed of any decaying foliage, and of any insects that might infest them. — R. D. East Lothian Stocks. — These useful Stocks, which are now much grown, appear to be identical with the autumnal (intermediate) Stocks of the Germans. Those grown and seeded in this country are in four colours, white, purple, crimson, and scarlet. In Scotland, where they are largely used for bedding and prove most effective, the usual plan is to sow the seeds about the month of JIarch, gene- rally on a south border. A hand-light is placed over the seed, and the young plants remain until they are large enough to place out in the open bor- der to flower, which they do with great freedom during the autumn months, commencing with August. Treated in this way, they foDu an ex- cellent succession to the summer-flowering, or Ten- week Stocks. In mild autumns I have seen them very fine in the open air as late as November. Any ■plants that stand through the winter will bloom in the following spring, and it is from these that seeds are obtained. It is easy to advance the time of blooming by sowing in a little heat in February and growing the plants on under glass, taking care that they are not too much drawn. Plant them out in the open at the end of April or early in May. The usual practice adopted in order to secure a crop of seeds is to lift all the single-flowering plants 142 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. about September, and either pot theiu or transplant them to some warm spot, where they can be wintered with safety to mature their seed. A south border is a suitable place when the soil is light and warm. Many persons fail to get a good head of bloom from their Stocks by planting them in poor soil, where they are starved. One of the finest lots of Stocks I ever saw was grown as a kind of carpet to a bed of standard Koses that had been well mulched with manure the previous winter. The soil was forked over lightly in the spring, and the Stocks made a wonderful growth in it and bloomed finely. — R. D. Lilium Parryi. — In answer to the inquiry regard- ing Lilium Parryi (p. 122), I only wish to mention that at the Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, it is grown successfully, year after year, planted on raised beds in peat, and shaded and sheltered by hedges. The roots of the shrubs keep the beds during the winter in a proper state of moisture. There are clumps of this Lily which produced last summer more than forty flowers on about five to six stems, each over 6 feet high. It does not seem to grow so well in exposed positions. — G. R. Fruit Garden. W. COLEMAN. GRAFTING ORCHARD PEARS. I HAD hoped the discussion, I will not say con- troversy, upon Pears would have been brought to a close in time for intending grafters of in- ferior sorts to avail themselves of the outcome this season. Such, however, is not likely to be tlie case, and as the sap is now freely on the move, I am constrained to ask all who intend to succeed to lose no time in heading back their stocks, and, equally important, to lay in a good store of young wood for scions. Pears being more precocious than Apples, we always take them in hand first and finish off the latest trees before we commence upon the earliest Apples. When heading back the stocks, whilst bearing in mind the future symmetry of the heads, as great a number as possible of the small and intermediate branches should be retained for the reception of one or perhaps two grafts each in preference to cutting, as i.s too often done, hard into the main limbs. Some people say, " Oh, it is easy enough to graft large trees and make the scions grow, but they are short-lived and never bear fruit." Neither are they likely to ; the only wonder is that such bare-headed pollards ever put forth leaf or shoot again, but treat them as an intelligent grafter of Camellias treats large old plants — shorten back a great number of small branclie.s, stick a graft on the end of each, leave all the minor shoots and spurs clustering about the trunk and stems, and a fruitful head as large as the original will be formed in three or four years. Very large limbs, as a matter of course, must be cut sometimes, but their condition can be greatly ameliorated by attaching a graft to many minor pieces, not absolutely to assist in forming the head, but to act as safety-valves for the flu.sh of sap which otherwise would remain in the roots and rot them. Free young stocks of thirty or forty years should give as many points for the reception of one or two grafts each, and as these would encircle a great deal of spur wood, no harm, but possibly much good might be done by allowing them to swell fruit to maturity. Indeed, it is no uncommon event to see grafts made of two-year-old wood bearing remarkably fine fruit, as we sometimes see bottle grafts on Vines carrying a bunch the first season. Grafting in this part of the country is rather primitive, and no power will induce a native of the locality to depart from the methods and practices followed Ijy his forefathers. Some years ago a native professor, grafting by the hundred or score, positively refused to jeojiardise his reputation \>y working a few old trees with yearling wood of popular sorts which I had re- ceived from a friend in Kent. The grafts, as a matter of course, were put on by another man and grew, but the shock was too great for the professor, and he left the neighbourhood. Crown or notch, not cleft, grafting is the favourite and, I believe, the best method, and I have now learned to give preference to clean, straight pieces of two years' wood which stands sharp driving with the mallet, and properly let in doe.s not require tying. The tools consist of a saw, a chisel, and a strong knife with a long, straight blade let into a stout handle made of wood. The saw-cut, running about 4 inches down the bark and 1 inch or a little more along the crown of the branch, is increased in width externally and made quite smooth with the knife. The scion is cut triangular shape, termi- nating in a point to fit ; it is driven tight home, bark to bark ; three or four are let into one large crown, clay is applied, and the work is finished. Varieties that do well in the neighbourhood as far as possible — that is to say, provided they are first-rate — should be selected for orchard grafting. Where these are scarce, the soil and situation being fairly good, such sorts as Louise Bonne, Williams' Bon Chretien, Beurre Superfin, Thompson's, the delicious Seckel, Marie Louise, Pitmaston Duchess, Marie Louise d'Uccle,Mme. Treyve, and Clapp's Favourite might be used. Some of these, it is possible, might not do everywhere, but, provided they do not melt in had seasons, they make the best of all stewing Pears. The old Hessle is sometimes excellent. Aston Town, a Cheshire Pear, and Beurre de Capiaumont are profitable market Pears. PEARS. Your several correspondents are doing good ser- vice in discussing the merits of various Pears, as it is not yet too late to plant, and those who are un- fortunate enough to have worthless kinds can head them back and regraft, after which in two or three years they will have fine bearing trees. There will also be very likely an improvement ia the growth and fruit through the tree being double-worked, as this has a good effect on some sorts, and is neces- sary to make them bear satisfactorily. Although it is early yet to graft, it is not too soon to head back the branches, and this should be done at once to within a foot or so of the main stem. Before, how- ever, putting the scions on, the cut-back branches should be trimmed over again, as then the bark heals more readily, and there is not so much danger of decay in the exposed part of the wood. To reduce this risk as much as possible, it is im- portant to select the .smaller-sized arms for grafting, as by this means a neater and more perfect union is obtained. The way to insert the grafts is to make a slit through the bark of the stock, and if the bark is then gently raised, the scion may be slipped in without bruise or damage. To raise the bark the best way is to get a shoot of hard wood about the size of a quill, and trim it by making a long slant- ing cut in the same way as when forming a pen. The scion should also be prepared in the same man- ner and be pushed in immediately after the stick is withdrawn. This done, the next thing is to tie in the graft securely, which may be done by the use of a strand of Raffia Grass, which, being soft and strong, is well suited for the work, and lasts until a union takes place. As to varieties, the first to ripen and one that is very useful, is Beurrg Giffard, the fruit of which is pyriform in shape and of fair size, the flesh being white, tender, rich, juicy, and slightly aromatic. The one I should recommend to succeed this is Williams' Bon ChriitieD, a well-known Pear, which if gathered in succession at intervals of a few days will come in and last through into October. This is succeeded by Kondante d'Automne and Louise Bonne of Jersey, two of the best for that season. My choice for November is Marie Louise and Doyenne du Comice, which are quite unrivalled either for appearance or high quality, and where these succeed and do well no others are wanted. Both these sorts succeed in most parts of England, either as pyramids, espaliers, or on walls, the first- named being the most tender of the two. It is well, however, to grow the trees in both ways, and if on walls give them a south-east or south-west aspect, as they require plenty of sun. This is even more necessary with the sorts that ripen later, and a very important matter with these is to allow the fruit to remain on the trees as long as possible, as otherwise it does not ripen and mature properly, and when stored it shrivels. The kinds that are best to succeed the Marie Louise and Doyenn6 du Comice are Winter Nelis and Glou Morceau, the only fault with the Winter Nelis being its small size, as it is a most delicious Pear, and the tree is a moderate grower, besides bearing freely. Glou Morceau also bears well, but requires a warm, sunny position, the quality of the fruit then being very fine, as it is also from pyramids or espaliers where the fruit is well exposed. There are also two others worth mentioning, and these are Josephine de Malines and Bergamotte d'Esperen. Both ripen slowly when stored, and carry the supply on till March or April, and even later if the fruits are kept in a suitable room. The habit and growth of Josephine de Ma- lines is thin and spare, the foliage being narrow and small, but it, as well as Bergamotte d'Esperen, bears freely. It is a good plan to thin the spurs at each annual pruning by cutting away all those that pro- ject far or that are weak or misplaced. By doing this, the blooms are kept at home and the spurs less twisted and gnarled, and when in that desirable condition the sap circulates better and feeds the fruit more freely, thus rendering it not so liable to crack. This cracking is sometimes brought about by a check from want of water, when splitting will follow after a heavy fall of rain or a sudden soaking of the soO. This is especially the case if the trees happen to have been stopped back just before. — S. D. To judge by the notes which have appeared in The Garden on this subject, the variety known as Winter Nelis appears to be highly appreciated, and one correspondent even goes so far as to say that if circumstances compelled him to grow only one variety. Winter Nelis would be the one he would select. I think it woidd be ditficult to name a more deserving variety. The fruit is of medium size, handsome, and universally admitted to be of the finest flavour, and it becomes fit for use at a time when good Pears are not too plentiful, viz , from about the middle of November to the middle of February. The tree does not appear to be par- ticular as to soil. It is not a robust grower, but is, nevertheless, perfectly hardy, and succeeds in the north of Scotland as well as in the south of England. It is a free bearer, and succeeds as a dwarf pyramidal tree, but deserves to be grown on a wall. Maeie Louise is a well-known and highly esteemed variety. Its highly-flavoured fruit ripens earlier, but does not keep so long as that of Winter Nelis. 'J'he tree, however, is quite hardy, nnd succeeds quite as well in the form of a standard as when trained upon a wall. Fruit from a standard, it not quite so fine as that from a wall, is, nevertheless, if anything, more highly flavoured and of a more russet-brown colour. Doyenne du Comice, — This is a most delicious and delicately perfumed Pear. It is large and hand- some, and will generally be found to succeed Marie Louise in its time of ripening, viz , during the month of November. The tree is of robust growth, and generally bears well either as a pyra- mid or on a wall. Suffolk Thoen. — This is a delicious and very handsome Pear, which is possibly less grown than it deserves to be. The fruit very much resembles Gansel's Bergamot in fl.avour, but it is of some- what larger size. The tree is an excellent bearer, quite hardy, and will succeed either as a pyramid or on a wall, and the fruit will be found to be Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. fit for use during the month of October and the early part of November. Bburee Bosc. — This variety, like the former, is possibly less appreciated than it deserves to be. It is a free grower, as well as a very free bearer, but it requires a wall or a warm situation, and well deserves the same, being one of the finest dessert Pears. The fruit is large and handsome, somewhat resembling the Jargonelle, but of a uniform cinna- mon-coloured russet, and will generally be found to be ripe or fit for use in the early part of November. Easter Beuree. — This variety wiU generally be found in perfection during the months of January, February and March. The tree is quite hardy, and will succeed as a pyramid or an espalier, and when grown in this form, the fruit, which is large and handsome, as well as abundant, is frequently found to be highly flavoured. But during unfavourable seasons it sometimes cracks. When grown upon a wall, however, the fruit is nearly always fine, abundant, and free from crack- ing ; and it is advisable to gather it before it becomes quite ripe, otherwise it is apt to be some- what mealy. But even when this is to some extent the case the frait is generally appreciated at a season when first-rate flavour can hardly be ex- pected. According to my experience, which has mostly been confined to light land in one of the eastern counties of England, the above are what I am inclined to consider as six of the finest dessert Pears. I should certainly select them if confined to that number of sorts. This number, however, will seldom be found to be enough, as few could afford to dispense with such homely varieties as the well-known Jargonelle, Williams' Bon Chretien, Swan's Egg, with its peculiar flavour, which is so highly appreciated by many, and the Forelle or Trout Pear, which is well worthy of being grown on account of its beauty. I have also found in practice that there are many varieties which are known to succeed admirably in some soils and situations which have not suc- ceeded with me, and these are Ne plus Meuris, Knight's Monarch, Glou Morceau, Beurrc? Ranee, Beurre d'Aremberg, and Passe Colmar. While the hardy Scotch Pears, such as the Grey and the Red Achan, Moorfowl's Egg, &c., so highly appreciated in the north, are found to be worthless when grown in the southern counties. An exception may, however, be mentioned, viz , that of the Green Pear of Yair, which, as a standard, has been found to succeed in the eastern counties, bearing very freely bright green fruit of excellent quality. — P. G. Pears for "West Biding of Yorkshire. — I have a piece of wall, in some places 20 feet high, facing full south, on which I should like to try Pears. The wall is of irregular shape, and will only admit of cordons. I want good bearers and also those of good quality. I shall be obliged if you would give me a list of half-a-dozen varieties, and say what stock is best for cordons. — Puzzled. *:if* You cannot go wrong in planting the base of your irregular south wall with cordon Pears on the Quince stock, but some parts being 20 feet in height much time may be saved by introducing tall riders on free stocks for covering the upper half. These eventually, if you feel so disposed, may be cut away to make room for the cordons to ascend ; otherwise, allowing 10 feet for the latter, all irregu- lar parts above that height may remain permanently covered by the standards. Prepare well by taking out a trench 2 feet 6 inches in width and 2 feet in depth, put in 6 inches of drainage, and cover with thin sods of good loam Grass side downwards. Use sound strong loam corrected with burnt earth and old lime rubble for your compost, fill in the trench, making it firm as the work proceeds and 9 inches higher than the surrounding level to allow for settling. Plant the trees 18 inches apart, water at once to settle the soil about the roots, and mulch well with good half-rotten stable manure. Having seen the most tender of the following bearing high flavoured fruit twenty miles east of your locality, I can strongly recommend them for your favourable aspect: — Cordons. — BeurrS Superfin, Thompson's, Doyenne du Comice, Winter Nells, Josephine de Malines, Olivier de Serres. liulers. — Beurre d'Amanlis, Marie Louise, Pitmas- ton Duchess, Bergamotte d'Esperen. If an earlier variety is wanted, plant one standard Jargonelle. — W. C. STANDARD PEARS FOR BRITAIN. THE JARGONELLE PEAR. My father had a splendid tree of this on the east gable of the house in which I was born, and the late Dean Henry Alford, the then vicar of my native Wymeswold, Leicestershire, and a great lover of all good fruit, used to get a dish of the fruit from our tree on what my father called "Jargonelle Sunday," i.e., the second or third Sunday in August. The tree grew on the deep, rich Wheat and Bean-grow- ing clay of Leicestershire, and fruited in a superb way, but in other parts of the county on warm, dry Barley soil the tree did not grow well, and the fruits were earlier, but small and poor. My impression is that the .largonelle loves deep, strong clay soil, and that it succeeds much better in the cold and chilly north of England, even Scotland and north of Aberdeen, Pear Jargonelle. than it does in the good Hop and Cherry soils of Kent and Sussex, or further down in the sunny south. Fond as I am by early associa- tions of the Jargonelle Pear, and much as I like its delicious, juicy, cool, and refreshing fruit on a sultry August day, I should certainly hesi- tate to place it first in a list of really first-class standard Pears. It seems to me first-class only in its size and earliness, for if flavour is taken into account, then I much prefer the rich little Citron des Carmes, a cluster of which you honoured with a good portrait in The Garden some time ago. I should say, in reply to your questions at p. 85, that the reason of Jargonelle not being more grown in the south of England is because the climate and soils generally are too warm for its constitution. Contrast this state- ment with the note reprinted at p. 90, wherein the Jargonelle is said to be " the Pear of Pears for Scotland," and that it " does well fifty miles north of Aberdeen." This is, in part, an answer to your second question, and if this should catch the eye of the WTiter of the paragraph, " J. O.," perhaps he will kindly say if this is on walls and near the sea-coast, or otherwise. The question of how far north is not so important as details as to elevation, soil and shelter. As to the Jargonelle being driven out of cultivation by other kinds, I should duuV)t this, since I never yet visited a fruit garden of any pre- tensions in which one, or more, Jargonelle trees were not to be fou^d. i "It^is really an old favourite Pear as an early sort in most gardens, but its tendency to become rotten at the core ere it is fully ripe, and, at the best, its extremely short season of excellence, and that when other good fruits are plentiful, tends to restrict the number of trees grown in any one garden. What would be the use of growing the Jar- gonelle in quantity for market when the earliest French and Channel Island, Williams' Bon Chretien, and other fruit are coming in in any number of cases a day ? I believe the Jargonelle does fairly well throughout Ireland, and I need scarcely men- tion to you the noble and historical tree in Merrion Square, Dublin, in front of the town house which belonged to the late Sir Philip Crampton. Every spring this tree is covered with bouquets of bloom, but last year its blos- soms were literally torn away by a sleety and windy frost, or on a small scale what our American friends call a " blizzard." It was the only total failure during the past nine or ten years, and even the leafy growths on the upper portion of the tree were blackened, and looked as if scorched with fire. Your etching in Vol. IV. of The Garden (p. 417) gives an accurate impression of this tree when in bloom, and from the letterpress we learn that Sir Philip Cramp- ton planted this tree in 1815. It is properly pruned every year and manured every second year ; but the reason of its more than usual fertility was attributed by its late owner, Mr. John Hamilton, to a drain or sewer which runs about 3 feet in front of the tree, and in which bundles of its rootlets have been seen. As before stated, sharp frosts and high winds in March seriously aflect the fertility of this tree, yet in 1873 it ripened no leas than 1700 fine Pears ! Shelter from the cold east winds dur- ing its blooming period in March is an essential item in the successful culture of the Jargonelle, and my own experience is that it does better at an elevation of 200 feet to 500 feet above the sea-level than either higher or lower. At about 300 feet above the sea, especially away from the coast, spring frosts are far less dangerous than in the low valleys or on higher ground, and this neutral or frostless zone is an item of which neither fruit growers nor meteorologists have made the moat in oirr interests to-day. Personally, I prefer the flavour, aroma, and cool juiciness of a perfect Jargonelle far before that of the finest of Williams' Bon Chretien, or Bartlett's, as the fruit is technically known in London and in the United States respectively. But the great mass of Pear-eaters in England to-day vote for Williams', and it is as yet only the fruit-eating connoisseur who prefers the more delicate Jargonelle. But to the man who grows Pears not for his heirs, but for the market, this point makes all the difference in the world, and so for market the Williams' Bon Chretien Pear will long stand as A 1 in Covent Garden, just as King of the Pippins Apple tops the list from all points of view, although from any one point of view it is a second or third-rate fruit. I know of no hardy fruit so full of whims and fancies — so variable in its phases of growth, size, colour, and flavour as is the Pear, and both the market grower and the gardener who grows fruit for his employer must of necessity be prepared to grow far more Pears than are really required. This applies to varieties as well as to the number of trees of each kind. No twelve, no twenty-four, no thirty-six Pears can be named that are absolutely the best from all points of view for Great Bri- tain and Ireland. Even in the same soil 144 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. and climate what a difference, very often an enormous difference, is found to result between, say, Marie Louise on a wall and Marie Louise as a standard. In any otlier, or even in the same garden, this diffe- rence may be entirely reversed the following year owing solely to variability of climate. Again, iu a garden where a Pear succeeds per- fectly on an average of seasons, it will fail entirely in a garden not half a mile away. As I have said, no hardy fruit is so subtly influ- enced by soil, aspect, climate, and elevation as is the Pear, and so variable is our British climate from one year to another, that one can scarcely wonder at the variable excellence of our best British Pears. I submit the above remarks to the considera- tion of all who grow and value our best Pears, and I especially desire to hear the opinion of our leading fruit growers on that singular phase, variation in Pears as grown under the same conditions (except climate) every year, for it is an established fact that a Pear tree that one year produces rich, juicy fruits, aromatic and of excellent flavour, the next season may produce fruit unfit for table. — Veeonica. This is the best early Peargrownin this district, but requires the protection of a wall to do it justice. Some old trees in this garden trained upon a south wall bear heavy crops of excellent fruit yearly. It grows freely in the open garden, but it is only in sea- eons like the last that the fruit is equal in size and quality to that from walls. — J. Day, Ualloway House, Garlieston, N.B. I consider this by far the best early Pear grown in these gardens ; in fact, the best to my knowledge anywhere. With reference to its crop- ping qualities, I find it to bear freely and satis- factorily both on east and west walls. Like all other early Pears, its season is but of short duration, yet by gathering the fruits at intervals and commenc- ing when the Pears are quite hard, the Jargonelle may be had in capital condition three weeks earlier than the Williams' and till this latter is fit for use. The question is, Have we throughout Britain a Pear ripen- ing as early in the season as the one under notice and containing so many good qualities f So far, I think not.— H. Markham, Mereu-orth Castle. This Pear may be seen in some warm and sheltered gardens in Somersetshire doing well, both as a pyramid and a bush tree, and producing moderate crops of fruit of good quality. It is, however, when trained against a wall or a bnilding with a southern aspect that it is most fruitful. It seems to me to require a large root-run and plenty of space for tlie branches. I know a tree of the Jargonelle that has some of its branches trained to the south front of a dwelling-house, and some of them extending round to the west side. The fruit produced on the tree grow- ing in the western aspect is almost flavourless, and when ripe nearly green in colour. The Jargonelle is certainly A 1 in flavour, but there are many more reliable bearing sorts. — J.C. C. In reply to yonr inquiries on p. 83, I am glad to be able to say a word in favour of the old and well-tried Jargonelle Pear. Here, in Sheffield and neighbourhood, large standard trees, twenty to thirty years old and upwards, are to be seen in many gar- dens, both of gentlemen and of cottagers. These trees, grafted on Crab stocks, make vigorous growth and are hardy in our rigorous climate, which in early spring is trying to all vegetation. The trees are, as a rule, more fruitful than those of any other variety, and would seldom miss were it not for late spring frosts. We have a number of large trees in the gardens here both as standards and trained wall trees. The standards are by far the most fruitful, and the fruits, I believe, are superior in flavour to those off the trained trees, but those on the wall trees have the advantage in size. All points considered, the Jargonelle is the most valu- able Pear cuU'n-aleil in our SlielUnld qardcns. — W. K. Woodcock, The Gardens, dalihroo'k,Sli('jlicld. This old and favourite Pear is worthy of the position you have assigned it, for no other variety can be compared with it in its season. Mr. Wildsmitb, I see, takes exception to it on account of its tendency to decay at the core before ripening. No early Pear is exempt from this fault, and the Jargonelle is not a greater delinquent in this respect than many other August and Sep- tember varieties. We have a large tree of Jargonelle on a south wall, and in some seasons I have noticed this disposition to decay before ripening, but last year the fruit was finer than usual, also juicy and good. The Jargonelle succeeds best when trained to the side of a house, or on the gable end of a building where there is ample room for extension, for, being a strong grower, it is impatient of the knife, and not until the tree has covered consider- able space and the spurs have become old will good crops result. By far the finest samples of this va- riety which I have seen were from two very old trees in a Suffolk garden. I have assisted in gather- ing bushels of fine Pears from these grand old trees. This Pear when grown in different aspects will pro- duce a good succession. Only once have I seen it growing as a standard, and in this instance the tree was carrying a good crop. We have two bush trees here which bear freely, but the fruit is smaller than from those grown against the walls. Our trees are all on the Pear stock. Judging from the number of dishes of Jargonelle exhibited at the horticul- tural shows in this locality, it is deservedly popular. A. Babkee, Hindlij?, Worcester. In Mid-Kent this is mostly grown as a wall tree, and very old examples exist both as dwarfs and standards. As a rule, they are fertile only at the points of the shoots, and are very liable to canker. As an open standard it bears profusely, but the fruit is rather small, though of high flavour, and it is not well adapted for this style, as it is a very pendent grower. It forms a very fertile bush double-worked on the Qaince stock, but from its diffuse growth is not an object of beauty as a pyramid. As a cordon it is not good, as the growth is so free that the buds are too far apart, and many eyes are blind and do not form fruiting spurs. As an early Pear of handsome form it will always be in demand, and its flavour is very refreshing. The fruit is much better pulled before it parts readily from the tree, and a heavy crop can be gathered twice with advantage. As is well known, it soon rots at the core and becomes mealy. Trees should be planted on different aspects for succession. Its large bloom is very conspicuous. — G. B. THE JARGONELLE PEAR. This Pear, according to Leroy's Bictionnai re de Pomoloijie, has good right to be considered one of the oldest in the French pomology. Our gardeners have cultivated it for about four centuries. Its first name appears to be that under which it is still known in France to-day — Poire d'Epargne. Since IGiJO, and without doubt before, it bore this name at Orleans, as may be seen from the catalogue that was published in 1628 by the Procureur du Roi, Le Lectier, of the trees of its remarkable orchard, established towards the end of the sixteenth cen- tury at Orleans. At page 4 of this small treatise may be foimd, classed among the fruits ripening during July or at the beginning of August, the Pear " d'Espargne." But oven before IGdO one can prove the existence of this Pear in another part of France, at the port of Dieppe. The following passage taken from an article, inserted in 1842 in the second volume of the Bulletin de la Socicte d'lloriicultiire do Itouen, shows that it had been already propagated there in 1580: — There exists in the garden of M. Mengnot, at Pollet, outside the town of Dieppe (Seine-Inferieure), an es- palier Pear tree, the oldest and largest that probably can be found in Europe. This is a tree of the Pear Cueilletto or Epargne, grafted on the free stock; it is planted against a wall 8 metres high and in a clayey soil. The stem is 1 metre in thickness ; each lateral brancli is 7U centimetres in diameter ; it is 30 metres in widtli, and is in a southern exposure. Its growth is vigorous, and the tree bears each year from 3000 to ■tOOO Pears. Its date of planting, written on a stono Iilacod in the wall, was 1580, in the reign of Henrylll. The property where it was found planted was for- merly a hospital. Thi^ venerable tree is taken care of by the owners, so that even now a long life is assui'od to it. Evidently we have here the origin of the Pear Epargne, and also probably one of the first frait trees that has been grown as an espalier. At the same time it is believed that if it was really planted in 1580 on the wall on which it now grows, it was only towards IGOO that it was trained in the form of a true espalier, of which the origin in our country goes back only to the beginning of the seventeenth century ; thus it appears in the lists given in our first volume, p. 57, of the history of the Pear. This tree was found exactly in the province where the espalier was well known, since the Abbe le Gendre, Cure of Henon- ville, near Rouen, was, as we have stated elsewhere (vol. i., pp. 57, 58), the oldest and most celebrated advocate of this method of tree culture. Poitean, who died in 1854, said in his " Cours d'Horticulture," edition of 1853 : — After having looked for a long time for a reason- able meaning for the word Epargne in the " Poire d' Epargne , " I have thought that this word was a corrup- tion of Poire d'Bspagne (vol. xi.,p. 142). This opinion lias recently influenced one of our pomologists, who, adopting it, has supposed that this Pear came originally from the north of Spain. To us these two opinions are inadmissible. The Pear that since 1628 Le Lectier called " Espargne " — a word then synonymous with treasure — must be of French origin, and have come either from Orleans or Normandy, its common name iu the last mentioned province being Cueillette. Our idea is also that of M. Jahn, one of the most com- petent German authors on the same subject (see " Illustrirtes Handbuch der Obstkunde," 1860, vol. xi., p. 195, No. 80). No Pear tree better deserved than this such flattering names which in our day it still fully justifies, since in 1858 M. Decaisne wrote in the first volume of his " J.irdin Fruitier du Museum," " L'Epargne is very abundant in the Paris markets, where choice fruits of it are generally sold at 25 francs the hundred ; " and in 1866 M. Mas, publisher of the "Orchard," said, in describing it, " I have Imown a tree of this variety the crop of which often realised as much as 120 francs." Let us add, in conclusion, that among the other names of this Pear, Grosse Cuisse - Madame is one of them. We have inscribed the name Grosse Cuisse-Madame among the synonyms of Epargne, this Pear having borne it for a long time and in diffe- rent countries; but here we ought to inform the reader that in 1600 there was cultivated at Orleans, according to Le Lectier (catalogue of 1628, p. 17), a Pear tree originally of Moulins, and called Certeau- Madame, or Grosse Cuisse-Madame. Nevertheless, as its fruits ripen in December, said this author, it is proved that it was entirely different from Epargne; our efforts to find it again have been futile. Let us also remember that for a number of years L'Epargne has been grown in Anjou as La Cuisse-Madame, and we refer those who wish for more detailed explanations on this subject to pp. 606, 608 of vol. i., where this last-mentioned va- riety is described. SHORT NOTES.— FRUIT. MoNS. F. Jamin recommends the following Pears for growing in England, giving the names in the order of ripening : Doyenne de Merode, Beurre Dalbret, Urbaniste, Beurre Hardy, Ne Plus Meuris, Beun'e Dumout, Passe Colmar, Passe Crassane, Olivier de Serres. Melon Apple. — This Apple has been grown here for the last twenty years. The tree is a slow grower, both against the wall and as a bush ; it bears freely about every other year. The fruit is large, highly coloured, very good, and keeps well. We have some very good samples of it now. By far the best fruit is obtained from trees grown against walls. It is very little grown about here.— E. Peters, The Gardens, Somerset Terrace, Ouernseij. Medlar jelly.— In The Gaeden of Feb. 4 I see an article on Medlar jelly. I have made this preserve for years, and prefer using the fruit before it is quite ripe. The jelly requires to be boiled for about two hours and a quarter at least. It should, when stiff, be of a beautiful red shade, rather like dark sherry. An astonishing quantity of the fruit is required for the jelly. I have found 24 lbs. of Medlars make only jelly enough to fill nine 1-lb. pots. — S. 0. G, Feb, 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 145 THE APPLES TO PLANT. Although the difference in soil and climate that exists in various parts of England has less influence on the quality of the fruit of Apples than of Pears, yet the nature of the land and the atmospheric con- ditions have so much influence on the growth of the trees and the bearing capabilities of many varieties of Apples, that in making a selection of sorts that will answer for general planting, it is necessary to be guided by the suitability of the varieties chosen. Any variety that will only succeed in exceptionally favoured places should be excluded from a repre- sentative selection. For instance, Cornish Gilli- flower, though well known for the excellence of its fruit, is so indifferent a bearer in most localities as to be useless for general adoption. I have had this variety in several places where all the best sorts did well, yet although the trees bloomed well they did not produce half-a-dczen fruits a year each. I could mention many other sorts that are good in every way in places where they succeed, but that are too uncertain to be included in a reliable selection. This subject, as I have before remarked when touch- ing upon hardy fruit culture, is one of the most im- portant connected with gardening, for though other fruits in their respective kinds are well worth all the attention that can be given them, still Apples are of much more value both to the grower and consumer than any other fruit. Respecting the cooking properties of many of the best dessert sorts, it seems that their merits have been little recognised. Ribston Pippin to my taste is the finest flavoured of all Apples when cooked, yet I have never met with anyone who had tried it in this way before their attention was drawn to it. This season I had Ribston Pippin, Cox's Orange Pippin, Golden Winter Pearmain, and Blenheim Pippin all cooked at the same time, so as to be able to see which was the best. There was little diffe- rence in the texture of the four sorts named, except that theWinter Pearmain was the firmest and shrunk the least. In flavour the Ribston was first, Cox's Orange second. Winter Pearmain third, and Blen- heim fourth. Everyone who is at all observant and who knows anything about Apples is acquainted with the merits of the Blenheim Apple, and the fact of this excellent variety standing the lowest of the four speaks well for the others. Although some of the leading dessert sorts are equally good when cooked, it does not follow that it would be wise to depend on them for cooking. They neither come in early enough nor last long enough to cover the season during which cooking Apples are required. Another great objection is that the dessert sorts that I have mentioned, and others of a like descrip- tion, do not bear anything near the quantity of fruit that the leading cookiog varieties do. Neither are many of the leading dessert kinds such free growers as the best cooking varieties. These shortcomings are sufficient to show the mistake that would be made in excluding the best cooking varieties. In making a selection of kinds, I hold that it would also be wrong to mix the dessert and the cooking sorts indiscriminately. To those who are acquainted with Apples and their cultivation it would not matter, but the greater number of those who require any assistance in selecting the varieties to plant will gain little knowledge by the mere mention of the name of a variety. The plainer and simpler that everything connected with the subject is made, the easier it will be understood. In selecting a limited number of varieties out of the quantities of good sorts there are to choose from, one feels some difficulty in determining what sorts to leave out. It is important that the selection should be such as will gi\e a supply, say, from August to May. Later than this, even the cooking sorts, that will nominally keep longer, have, 50 far, lost both flavour and texture as to be of little account. The undermentioned combine the best properties for which Apples are prized. They will give an un- broken succession throughout the season, and will thrive and bear satisfactorily in most parts of Eng- land : — Cooking Varieties. August and S'plember. — Lord SutBelJ, Keswick CodUn. September land October. — Cellini, Echlinville Seed- ling. November and December. — Loddington Seedling (Stone's Apple), Blenheim Pippin, Lord Grosvenor, Prince Albert, Reinette Blanche d'Espagne (Cobbett's Fall Pippin). January to May. — Dumelow's Seedling, Annie Elizabeth, Tower of Glamis, Yorkshire Greening, ALfriston. Dessert Varieties. Aiic/ust. — Margaret, Irish Peaoh. September and October.— Kerry Pippin, American Mother. November to April.— "Rihsion Pippin, Margil, Cox's Orange Pippin, Court Pendu Plat, Claygate Pearmain, Golden Winter Pearmain, Boston Russet. I have included Ribston Pippin, though there are some places in the south of England where the tree is subject to canker, but its combined properties are such that it cannot be left out of a selection for private use. Some object to its crisp, hard texture ; whilst those who dislike soft Apples look on its firmness as one of its best qualities. American Mother is not much known in the north of England, and I have no experience with it in the northern counties. It is a remarkably high-flavoured variety and unsurpassed for tenderness of flesh. Amongst the cooking sorts there is one, Reinette Blanche d'Espagne, or Cobbett's Fall, which I have not grown in the north of England, nor have I met with it in that direction. But in the south it does splendidly, bearing immense crops of very large fruit, excellent for cooking and little, if anything, inferior to the Blenheim for dessert. Its long season of keeping— up to March — is also in its favour. The tree is a strong grower, attaining a size equal to that of Yorkshire Greening or the Blenheim. There is one matter connected with the cooking of some of the dessert sorts that requires to be taken into account : they need to be longer in the oven than the ordinary cooking varie- ties. It is scarcely necessary to say that the sweetest varieties of Apples need the least sugar. Respecting the use or non-use of sugar, there will naturally be a difference of opinion. Some do not like it, and therefore prefer Apples without any sweetening ; others, with whom sugar does not agree, on that account do not use it; but the majority of people require sugar with even the sweetest Apples when cooked. T. B. FRUITS UNDER GLASS. Vines. Although the temperature has varied to a most trjing extent, the weather of late has been more favourable to early forcing, as may readily be seen by the improved colour and texture of the foliage. January has gone out a dry month, and February so far does not yet show signs of filling our cisterns and tanks, much less our ditches ; but what has this serious aspect to do with the culture of fruits under glass ? Why, a great deal, for in the first place, the absence of rain compels us to use hard water for damping, syringing, and watering; in the second, the roots remain cfark and dingy by an accumula- tion of soot, which we should like to see removed ; the occupants of the houses lack the invigorating air which finds its way through every lap and crevice in rainy weather ; and last, the prospect for supplying the summer evening bath looks un- promising, whilst the roots of Vines in well-drained external borders lack the stimulating matter which an average rainfall carries to them. A^nes now coming into flower will stand and set well in a tem- perature ranging from 60° to CS" at night, with a rise of 10° to 15" by day, and just enough atmo- spheric moisture to prevent the tender foliage from suffering when bright sunshine renders liberal ven- tilation necessary. Should the weather be dark and cold, atmospheric moisture must be reduced, and a few degrees lower by night will do no harm, but extra fire-heat should be turned on every morn- ing, not only to facilitate the admission of a chink of fresh air along the front of the house, bnt also to favour the ripening and expansion of the pollen. Foster's Seedling, Buckland Sweetwater, and Madresfield Court Muscat should be fertilised with Hamburgh pollen when the temperatnre reaches the maximum and the air is fresh and buoyant. Ham- burghs are supposed to take care of themselves, but, independently of the fact that the collection of pollen for the shy varieties produces the desired effect, the performance of this operation should not be neglected where the Hamburgh only is grown. When the Grapes are sufliciently advanced, and the best placed as well as the best set bunches can be decided upon for the crop, all superfluous clusters must be removed preparatory to the tedious process of thinning. It is the too common practice to leave all the largest bunches, but unless they are wanted for exhibition or any special purpose, the intermediate and well-shaped clusters, which in- variably set best, and more of them are to be pre- ferred. As Grapes vary so much in size, it is im- possible to give directions for thinning, but one year's experience and practice in any vinery will set an observant operator right. If properly performed, the berries should not press each other out of shape when ripe, neither should the bunches lose their compact form when they are cut and laid upon the dish for use. All stoneless and doubtful berries should be removed, as nothing so much as inequality of size detracts from the pleasing appearance of the fruit, and on no account should the flesh, the hair, or water touch them after they are set. When the first thinning has been brought to a close, it will be necessary to examine and water if necessary all internal borders either with pure water, or, in the case of old Vines, with weak diluted liquid at a temperature of 80° to 85°. The evaporating troughs, too, must be kept constantly charged, and plenty of atmospheric moisture, especially on fine days, must be secured by damping the paths, walls, and stems, avoiding the pipes when heated, and last, but not least, by the renovation and frequent turning of the fermenting material. External borders well covered with dry, warm leaves when the Vines commenced pushing will not require renovating, but they must be protected from the chilling effect of snow and rain by tarpaulin, shutters, or sheets of corrugated iron, the cheapest and best of all materials for this purpose. As days increase in length and the sun gains power, the temperature must be gradually raised to 80° with air, and 85° for a short time after closing, but no advance on ti5° by night, and that with a chink of front air, need be made for the present. Pinch all lateral growths, tie down, and regulate where the trellis is already fairly covered, extend them where space admits, but carefully avoid a crowded condition that will shut out the sun's rays and check the full development of the foliage. SuecessioH /louses now closed must have plenty of tepid water and good syringing backwards and forwards two or three times a day until aU the buds are on the move, when the use of the syringe may be relaxed. If extra long rods show a dis- position to break unevenly, their points may be drawn down to the border until the defective parts form the crown of an arch, when the check upon the flow of sap will soon set the dormant buds in motion. As the young growths after this date will push very fast, disbudding, tying down, and, in due course, pinching must receive early attention. Where all double breaks have been reduced it will be well to wait for the best shows to become promi- nent, when, hand in hand with tying down and regulating, the reduction of the shoots to one or two upon each .'■pur and to quite 12 inches apart on young canes may be proceeded with. A few days' delay in disbudding is of little consequence. Some- times upon weak Vines it is beneficial, but when we arrive at the pinching stage each point should be taken out before a single superfluous point with leaf attached has time to rob the Vine. By paying special attention to this matter of detail the bunches are im- proved in size and quality ; not an atom of sap runs to waste, and the ugly knife-cut stumps which still further weaken the Vines by bleeding are avoided. When stopping and the general tying down have been brought to a close, the retention of point laterals for covering vacant spaces, as I have just observed in my remarks upon early Vines, will claim atten- tion. As soon a^ the bunches retained begin to lengthen, advantage must be taken of waim, sunny 146 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. days for running np the temperature to 75'' with air, and 80" for a time after the house is closed, when steady fire-heat will allow it to descend gradually to 65° at banking time and 60" the following morning. Muscats. — Where the houses are devoted to this prince of Grapes, the Vines in the first should now be well on the move if not already tied down. The roots being confined to internal borders of limited extent, good top-dressing or mulching with fresh horse droppings and copious supplies of diluted liquid at a temperature of 85° will not only help them on rapidly, but the ammonia from the manure will give colour and substance to the foliage and keep spider in check. Muscats may be worked throughout the season at a temperature 5° higher than is good for Hamburghs, and as this means extra fire-heat, the question as to whether the syringe shall be discontinued or used up to the flowering stage is a matter for the grower's con- sideration. If this course is decided upon, warm, soft water only must be used, as limewashed leaves are little less unsightly than spotted berries. In either case the bed of fermenting leaves, whilst economising and softening fire-heat, will be found a powerful aid when the weather is dark and cold^ and altogether unfavourable to the use of the syringe. The late or general house, now ready for starting, may be closed at once, or air may be kept on until the buds begin to swell. Meantime the external borders must be secured from sudden chills by a good covering of dry leaves. Fern, or litter, while those inside wUl require one, or perhaps two thorough waterings that will permeate every particle of soil quite down to the drainage. Lady Downe's and other late varieties in like manner may be helped on with gentle fire-heat and fermenting leaves, or they may be left to break naturally. As this ex- cellent Grape cannot be grown to perfection vrith- out the aid of fire-heat, and we never know what the summer is likely to be, many growers now prefer stealing a march upon the season, and in this way secure crops of fruit as black as jet, thoroughly ripe, and in the best possible condition for keeping and eating. Further, they save money in production, as one ton of fuel in the spring is of more use than two in the autumn. If anyone doubts this statement founded upon experience, let him refer to his Grape-room notes after cold, wet seasons and then examine his present stock matured under brilliant weather. Pot Vines. — If former directions have been fol- lowed, and quality as weU as earliness are to be the test of merit, the bunches will have been reduced to six at most, and well thinned as soon as they were out of flower. Extra strong Vines started late may perhaps mature more bunches. But unless they are extremely well done, the smaller number will not only equal them in weight, but their colour and quality will be better. Assuming that the bunches have been thinned, and the Vines well up to their work are making laterals freely, all must now be closely pinched, unless space remains uncovered, when the plan adopted in the early vinery may be followed. Without good foliage, and plenty of it, we cannot have good Grapes, and as these are entirely dependent upon the support given to the roots, sound sweet top- dressing, rich and good, must be used little and often. This may be washed in with pure warm water, and when a second watering is found necessary, very weak diluted liquid may possibly be beneficial. Pot Vines being so suVjject to red spider, the syringe must be freely plied upon the walls, the stems, and the surface of the bed, and last, but not least, the fermenting material will require frequent turning and renovation. The crock roots having the benefit of genial bottom- heat, the house or pit may be kept at 6.0° to <'i8° by night, always with air, and 75° to 80° on bright days, and a few degrees higher after closing. Stock Vines cut back in December, and, if in- tended for fruiting next year, should be shaken out as soon a.s they have made 2 inches of growth and be repotted in 7-inch pots for growing on. As these small pots will contain the nucleus of balls which will [keep the roots fresh and healthy until the Grapes are ripe, considerable care should be devoted to the preparation of the compost. Good, sound turf, cut last autumn from an old pasture, a little old lime rubble, a dash of soot and crushed bones, well incorporated a fortnight in advance, thoroughly warmed, and the reverse of wet, will answer admirably. A quick, but short-jointed growth being the aim, the pots may be plunged in a bottom- heat of 75° to 80° to give the roots a start, and when this has been secured they must be kept stocky by close proximity to the glass and careful ventilation. If the compost is in proper condition, one moderate watering in a day or two after they are plunged will settle it about the roots, when future supplies must be regulated by the moist or dry condition of the bed and the use that is made of the syringe. Of two evils, it is always best to err on the safe side, as ' fresh compost, minus roots, is easOy made sour, whilst plants in this state, in a close moist pit, require very little water at the out- set. By way of stimulating the roots into speedy action, it is a good plan to allow two buds upon each Vine to start into growth, and when, by the crisp, healthy appearance of the leaves, they show that all is right below, the weakest may be pinched and eventually removed altogether. Eyes may be propagated in two ways : by inser- tion in very small pots firmly filled with sandy soil, or by insertion into small cubes of turf, laid Grass side downwards upon a hot-bed. The first is the oldest, but the second, or Galashiels system, is the best, especially where home-grown Vines are wanted for spring planting. Whichever plan is adopted, the following precautions are essential to success : The wood from which the eyes are taken should be ripe and free from insects and mildew ; the bottom- heat, 70° to 75°, steady and lasting ; the surface of the bed in a snug, well-heated pit, not too far from the glass ; and the supply of water at the outset extremely moderate. The trade start and grow their young Vines in a very strong top and bottom heat, but beyond stealing a march on the season they are none the better for this high pressure, neither is it at all necessary. Private growers of this easily-propagated plant also go oS with a flourish, but their strong heat failing at the most critical time, the eyes never get beyond the exhaus- tion of the stored-up sap, when they perish. To steer clear of this dilemma, the bottom-heat, be it high or low, should be constant — certainly until the small pots are full of roots and the tiny canes com- mence making leaves and joints, when they may be considered safe. This method of growing Vines from eyes has been well exemplified at Heckfield, where that indefatigable gardener, Mr. Wildsmith, made his internal border first, then inserted the eyes where the canes now stand, and cut first prize Grapes from them within twenty months. He places bell-glasses over the eyes, it is true, but the natural fermentation of the compost would not ex- ceed 60° or 65°, the best of all proofs that a tem- perature which can be maintained is of vital importance. The Grape room. — Late Grapes so far have kept unusually well, and judging from the fresh and green condition of the stalks, there exists but little doubt that they wiU present a most respectable front when they come out to shake hands with the new. A dry winter may have been favourable, but the true cause of their good behaviour is plainly trace- able to the dry, warm autumn, which converted their juices into saccharine matter before the leaves fell from the Vines. This being the fact, we have positive proof that a tropical summer is the late Grape grower's best friend ; and although no amount of fire-heat will compensate for the absence of the sun, the niggardly fuel-provider may learn that the repetition of many past failures can be avoided by starting the Vines early in spring. When late Grapes are cut from the Vines they should be most carefully relieved of all doubtful berries, the wood beyond the bunch should not be shortened, the bottles should be kept constantly full of water, and then, provided actual frost can be kept out of the room, the less dry fire-heat the better. Many people put lumps of charcoal in the water and change the latter frequently; bijt this trouble and disturbance is not really necessary, as I find they keep just as well without the charcoal, and one change of water vrill suflice for the whole season. Grapes cut at Christmas and used before March need not be dis- turbed ; but when these are cleared off, we some- times, not always, empty the bottles, refill with soft water, and transfer the remainder of the stock to them. Lady Downe's, we are told by Mr. Barron, has been superseded by Gros Colman ; and more is the pity, as I have not yet met with anything equal to a well-grown Lady Downe's through the months of March and April. As a first-class successor to the Muscat of Alexandria, the white Grape Mrs. Pearson stiU stands unrivalled. Black Grapes keep best in a dark room or dry, cool cellar. They should be carefully protected from dust, and on no account should the means of expelling damp or frost be obtained from an open fireplace. A small boiler outside; with pipes passing through answers best, and the less this is used the better. W. C. Garden Flora. PLATE 636. TWO BEGONIAS.* The accompanying plate truthfully represents (life size) two of the many fine varieties of tuber- ous Begonias recently obtained from the careful selection and raising of these plants by the Messrs. Cannell, of Swanley. The most ardent enthusiast and admirer of these easily-grown and most efifective plants could not have antici- pated that such vast strides were possible to be made in the improvement and perfecting of this section of the Begonia family as have been made since the comparatively recent date of its first introduction. To such a size have the blooms now been brought, that, though the florist's express dictum is " that a flower cannot be too large for the exhibition table, provided it is perfect," there will be found more people who prefer those varieties with blooms of mode- rate proportions where extra size of bloom is not obtained at the expense of quantity and freedom of blooming. When I visited the nur- sery at Swanley last autumn to examine the pro- gress of the Begonias, I observed many new double varieties of first-class quality, some having the petals folded with the precision and regularity of the Camellia, and of the exquisitely delicate tints of a Tea Rose. As in every other class of florist's flowers which Mr. Cannell has already taken in hand for improvement, so also in this family the progress and develop- ment has reached such a point, that while ob- serving what has been done already we can still hope for something further in the obtaining of new and distinct shades of colour. Some of the large single whites are perfectly pure, others are tinted with rosy carmine, like an Apple blossom, as in the plate, and more are tinted inside with a soft cream colour. So much has already been wi'itten on their culture that 1 need not touch on that point, merely adding that in suit- .ible places, where they are cultivated in the open ground as well as under glass, the enjoy- ment of their bloom can be prolonged for many months, to thegreat delight of the amateur of these gorgeous and, at the same time, refined flowers, which exhibit so extensive a range of colour, from the deepest crimson and scarlet to a deli- cate primrose or white. J. T. Poe. Copyright of seedling fruits. — The absence of copyright in seedling fruits appears to me to in- flict an injustice on those who have given much time and attention to this important branch of hor- * Drawn for The Garden in Mr. Caunell's Swan- ley nursery by II. G. Moon, .July l.'i, 1887, and printed by G. Severeyna. Tl-ffi GARDEN. TWO BEGONIAS ( LIFE SIZE ) ■"J"...' Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 147 ticulture. Why shonld not the originator of a seedling fruit be placed on the same footing with respect to his property as the author of a book, or the composer of a popular song ? I am induced to ask you to give me space for the ventilation of my grievance, because I see that in the list of Plums for orchards given by your very experienced contri- butor, Mr. W. Coleman, I am even denied the barren honour of the title of authorship to those Plums which he states are likely to be valuable additions to the home fruit markets : these are The Czar and The Sultan. Now these two Plums, from the arrange- ment of their parentage, their fructification, and the responsibility of making them public, are en- tirely my own ; the Rivers' Early Prolific is a seedling raised by my father ; the affix of " Rivers " has assured the property in the title, but this is all, and there is a limit to the use of the name. " Early Rivers " and " Late Rivers " have been appropriated, and I cannot use "Medium,"" Hasty," or "Slow Rivers." I have, therefore, been compelled to aban- don the surname and give names easily pronounced and familiar enough to be recognised in the markets. If I had a right of copyright, to which I contend I am entitled, I should not only now be reaping a handsome income, but I shonld also be able to employ nearly all the land and labour in my parish for growing trees, as it has been admitted that these early Plums have enabled the English grower to compete successfully with the foreign fruit grower. Parliament is now assem- bled, and I hope that you will allow this matter to meet the eyes of some member who will be inclined to add, as a rider to the book copyright, that the privilege be extended to seedling fruits. — T. Fbascis Rivebs, Samlridgeworth. Stove and Greenhouse. MIGNONETTE. Although not a showy flower, Mignonette has a peculiar charm of its own. It forms a pleasing relief to the more showy flowers, and the lovely fragrance of the blossoms renders it a favovirite with all. As a commercial plant for pot culture it receives especial attention, and is grown to great perfection by many of the market growers, who make the culture of Mignonette an im- portant and often a very profitable part of their business. Anyone going into Covent Garden flower market in the springtime cannot fail to distinguish the lovely perfume of Mignonette from that of the numerous other fragrant flowers that are there brought together ; and one going in early in the morning might well wonder where and how it would all be disposed of, but it may soon be seen that Mignonette is not re- served for any one class of buyers. From the leading florists down to the barrow-man aU in- vest in this ever-popular flower. In private establishments Mignonette does not often meet with the attention it deserves — that is, as a pot plant, for, as far as my ex- perience goes, it is rarely seen in good con- dition, except where grown for profit. I am rather surprised that this should be tlie case, for where it is well done it is sure to be thoroughly appreciated, and under favourable conditions it continues in bloom for a consider- able time. For pot culture it is very important to secure a good strain of seed. There are several good and somewhat distinct varieties. The variety that finds most favour with market growers is that known as pyramidalis grandiflura, a dwarf- growing kind with ratlier short, but very thick spikes of bloom, the reddish brown anthers giving the spikes of bloom quite a red appear- ance. Matchet appears to be an improved selec- tion from this. Miles' Spiral is a good variety with long, thick spikes of bloom ; the plant is of dwarf habit and vigorous growth; the anthers are not so conspicuous as in the first- named. Parson's White, which was ono of the first great improvements in Mignonette, is a very desirable kind. It would perhaps be diflicult to obtain this true under its original name. Although there are several so-called new white varieties, I have seen nothing better than the original form of Parson's White, in which variety the petals are unusually developed and quite white ; the stamens are not so numerous, and the anthers are less conspicuous than in most varieties ; the spikes of bloom are of great length and very fragrant. Golden Queen is another distinct variety, in which the anthers are yellow and very numerous, giving the flower- spikes quite a yellow shade. I believe all the improved varieties are the result of careful selection, and to keep any strain true it requires care in saving the seed, for if a few plants of an inferior sort happen to be flowering in the same locality the pollen may get transmitted from one to the other, and if this is allowed to go on the result will he a sad mixture. It is on this account that it is somewhat difficult to obtain seed that will be perfectly satisfactory. Culture. — Mignonette is usually sown in the pots that it is intended to flower in ; there- fore the soil is the first consideration. Any ordinary compost may be used, provided it is fairly rich, free from worms, and sufficiently porous that water can pass through freely. In preparing the compost, it is a good plan to mix a little soot with the manure before adding it to the other soil, and a good sprinkling of old lime rubbish is a valuable addition to the com- post. The pots should be filled flrmly and not too full, as the seed should have a good covering and sufficient room left for watering. The first spring sowing may be made any time after the middle of February, and successional sowings throughout the season, the latest being in Sep- tember. This will come into flower early in the year before the first spring-sown batch. The best position for growing Mignonette in is in pits or frames which have a southern aspect. The pots should be plunged in some light material, and brought up as close to the glass as possible. As soon as large enough to handle the plants may be thinned out, leaving about six plants in a pot ; or it is as well to leave a few more and go over them a second time, as sometimes a few will damp ofi'. Ven- tilation should be given freely from the time the seed begins to germinate, and later on, as the weather gets warmer, the lights may be removed altogether on favourable occasions ; but the plants should not be exposed to heavy rains or rough weather. It is very essential that watering should be regularly and carefully at- tended to ; in fact, this is the most important point in connection with the successful culture of Mignonette. Either extreme is equally damag- ing ; indeed an over-dose of water or allowing the pots once to become too dry will often prove fatal. If the plants have had a good watering after the seed is sown, the surface soil will only re- quire a slight sprinkling from time to time until the plants are large enough for thinning out, after which sufficient water should be given to soak through the soil as the pots appear dry. This will not be more than once or twice a week, but as the plants advance they will require more, and by the time the pots are full of roots they will require frequent attention. Manure water may be used as soon as the plants have got a good start, using it weak at first and gra- dually increasing the strength. By flowering time they will take manure water as strong as most soft-wooded subjects. During the hot weather a good sprinkling overhead once or twice a day wiU be beneficial, especially as the plants are coming into bloom, as at this period they will require a considerable quantity of water, and the slightest neglect wUl result in loss of foliage. Ventila- tion must also be regularly attended to. Mig- nonette being so easily excited, it wUl soon get drawn if kept close, though it be only for a short time. No artificial heat must be given at any time, except just sufficient to keep out frost. And if short, sturdy plants are desired, they should be grown fully exposed to the sun, as the slightest shading will induce them to run up tall and thin. During the summer-time a sharp look-out must be kept for caterpillars, which are sometimes very troublesome, and will soon make sad havoc if not kept in check. With the exception of the above. Mignonette is not much troubled with insect pests. A. THE FLOWERING OF EUCHARIS AMAZONICA. The way to flower this abundantly several times a year is to grow it well from the first. Get the pots f uU of roots, and then feed liberally with liquid manure. Large specimens containing a dozen or more strong bulbs in a pot are seldom altogether without flowers. Some growers rest their bulbs, and I used to do so years ago, but strong, vigorous bulbs do not seem to require rest in the ordinary sense of the word. I have seen pots that have not left the plunging-bed where bottom-heat is pretty reifular except for a short period in the summer when the fire is allowed to go out, and no plants could thrive better than they do. A neighbour who does them well never takes his plant 'rom the bed of Cocoa fibre in which they are plunged unless for repotting, which is very seldom, and I have never seen any plants more luxuriant or that produce finer flowers, or more in number in proportion to the number of plants. It will take several years to get up good specimens, but when once obtained, there shonld be plenty of flowers if there is a bottom- heat of 80° or so. Strong plants with large, vigorous foliage will require a good deal of nourish- ment. Just about the time I think the plants ought to be throwing up a large number of spikes I commence watering with liquid manure, which the plants have continuously until they cease flowering ; then they are given clear water till we want another large batch of flowers ; in the meantime, we are not often without isolated spikes. The soil we use for potting, when we do pot, which is not often, is about equal parts of rough turfy loam, rough pieces of flbry peat, and dry, flaky pieces of horse-droppings, and a little sand and some crushed charcoal. The soil is rammed in fairly firm. If the plants are wanted to produce abundant crops of flowers, they should not be taken into the rooms or draughty corridors, nor yet into the conservatory more than can be avoided, as I always find that those plants not disturbed very much bear the finest flowers. For propagating purposes it is necessary sometimes to break up a large plant, but unless the matter is pressing it is better left untouched. E. H. Eclieveria retusa. — This is a very useful and free-flowering plant,being especially valuable during the winter and spring in the decoration of the con- servatory as well as for cutting from, inasmuch as the flowers, owing to the nature and substance of the foot-stalks, keep fresh for several days. It is of good habit, and when well grown will produce several flower-spikes, which again branch out from the axils of their leaves, and thereby prolong con- siderably the flowering period. The flowers, of a deep orange colour and Hyacinth-like in shape, are borne in trusses on the top of the individual spikes, each truss having from twelve to sixteen blooms. This Echeveria is of very easy culture, and may be propagated freely from offsets taken off with an inch or two of heel, and inserted singly in 3-inch pots filled with an admixture of three parts light loam and one of leaf -soil, with a dash of sharp sand. They will root freely if then placed on the staging 148 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. over the hot-water pipes in a vinery or any other convenient place, and damped overhead morning and afternoon with the syringe when damping the house. When the plants have partly filled the cutting pots with roots they should be shifted into their flowering (4i--inoh) pots and stood on ashes in a cold, shallow frame in a warm aspect, and be kept rather close for a few days until the plants have made fresh growth. After this they should have plenty of air on all favourable occa- sions, and the sashes tilted up a little at night, and subsequently (about the middle of July) removed altogether, which will not only afford the plants head room, but also cause them to make a good sturdy growth. Upon the approach of frost the plants should be removed to a pit or house where they can have plenty of light and air and a minimum temperature of 40° or 45", which, with a rise of 10° or 15° during the day, would enable them to commence flowering about the new year, and con- tinue in bloom for three or four months onwards. The plants may be had in flower, if desired, during five or six months by introducing a small batch into the forcing house in October, and at short intervals till Christmas. From the time the plants commence throwing up their flower-spikes they should have liberal supplies of weak liquid manure three or four times a week. We have now several dozen plants from 15 inches to 20 inches high and nearly a foot through.— H. W. W. BEOMELIACEOUS PLANTS. VBIESIAS. It has long been a source of regret to me that the taste for these plants has so much declined of late years amongst lovers of plants in England. And this is all the more impressed upon my mind when- ever I visit any Continental gardens, especially those in Belgium, where large collections of these plants are to be found, and where they are much prized. I am glad, however, to record the fact that here and there in this country I find places where their cultivation is being taken up and fresh kinds sought after. I feel convinced that before long we shall see this beautiful class of plants receiving that amount of care and attention from English gar- deners that they so richly deserve. The fact is, these plants want some one who would devote themselves to their culture, and let their beauties be seen, and then they would have no lack of admirers. Other subjects have their specialists, and why not liromeliads ? I was told a short time back, however, that specialists were a weak- minded body, but I think society in general is much indebted to them. The cultivation of these plants is by no means diftioult, but, on the contrary, they are the easiest exotic plants to manage ; true, they require heat and moisture, and very little besides, as the majority of these plants grow in the forks and upon the branches of trees, surrounded oftentimes with Aroids, Orchids, and other plants. They are fre- quently imported upon blocks of wood with Orchids, and only recently I saw several species so growing in an Orchid house, and these few are likely to lead to the formation of a collection in that place. The majority of the kinds might be grown upon blocks or in small baskets suspended from the roof in the .same manner as Orchids, and I have grown many of the smaller kinds successfully in that way, such as Tillandsias, the smaller Pit- cairnias, Anolophytums, Vriesias, and Billbergias. Of course, the weight of the larger-growing kinds renders it more convenient to adopt pot culture with them, but I believe they would all thrive well treated as Epiphytes. Whichever system is adopted, the roots should not be overloaded with soil, those upon blocks having a little peat-fibre and Sphagnum Moss fastened about their roots to retain moisture. The block should Ije large (but not large enough to have an ugly appearance), and the plants will soon cling to it. The large kinds .should be supplied with ample drainage, and the soil should be a mix- ture of peat, leaf-mould, and loam, varying it from light to heavy, according to the vigour of the sub- ject. Those kinds which have a hollow funnel-like centre, caused by the rosulate arrangement of their leaves, should have water kept in them ; many gar- deners are, however, very careful to empty this out, but it is a mistake. I do not advocate its being allowed to stagnate, as when watering the plants the water should be made to run over, through, and about the leaves, and in that manner the water in the centre is kept fresh and the portion that trickles down through the leaves will be found in a usual way sufficient for the roots. Treated in this way, these plants will be found to thrive vigorously. They enjoy sun and light, yet it is advisable to shade them during the hottest part of the day. In- crease is effected by suckers and by seeds ; the latter may be obtained for a certainty if the flowers are fertilised, and in cross-fertilising and the ob- taining of hybrids there is an almost untrodden field open to the cultivator. The following are a few of the most showy kinds of Vriesias, which cannot fail to please those who will find them space : — V. DuvALiANA. — A plant of medium size with re- curved, broadly strap-shaped leaves, which are nmcli dilated at the base, light green ou the upper side, dull browu beneath ; scape erect, scarlet; spike large, com- posed of numerous distichous bracts, which are bright red at the base, the colour passing into yellowish green, and ultimately bright green at the tips ; flowers slightly protruding, greenish yellow, tipped with green. It is best grown in a pot. Rio Janeiro. V. AMETHYSTiNA.— This is a bold-growing plant with long, somewhat narrow, leaves, which are sheathing at the base, deep green on the upper side, rich amethyst beneath — a circumstance which has given rise to the name; scape erect, furnished with numerous small green bracts, which are pressed close to the stem, and bearing on the upper part eight or nine large flowers arranged in a two-ranked fashion, the bract being about half the length of the calyx, light green ; calyx golden yellow ; the corolla and exserted stamens are also the same colour, but tinged with green towards the apex. The size of this plant necessitates pot culture. Brazil. V. HiEROGLYPHiCA.— This is One of the most beauti- ful plants yet introduced, hut it is not remarkable for brilliancy of flowers or bracts. The spike, although much branched, produces only pale green bracts and rusty yellow flowers; they are valuable, however, as seed-producers to increase the stock. The foliage of this species, however, is so exceedingly beautiful as al- most to defy description. The habit of the plant is vasiform; leaves recurved, pale green, transversely streaked with irregularly shaped blotches of darker green; the under-side is similarly marked, hut the transverse bands are reddish crimson and chocolate- brown instead of deep green. I have noticed tliat this plant is somewhat delicate and does not thrive if much water is kept in the funnel-Uke centre during the winter months. Brazil. V. Warmingi. — The leaves of this are somewhat erect, narrow, and strap-shaped, the erect scape bear- ing a long spike of largo imbricated bracts, which are rich canary yellow, tipped with light Igreen ; flowers slightly protruding and golden yellow in colour. It is a superb species, lasting a long time in full beauty. Brazil. V. ketroflfxa.— This is a smaller-gi-owing plant with short, broad, spreading, and recurved leaves, slieathing at the base and blunt at the apex, but suddenly ending in a point, light green above, glaucous beneath. The scape is pendent, somewhat lax-flowered ; bracts large, bright carmine ; flowers rich clear yellow, tipped with green. It is a hybrid, having been obtained between V. sealaris and a variety of V. psittacina. V. fenestrai.is.— This is another species the flowers of which, although remarkable for the curious manner ill which they are arranged in a two-ranked manner, and at right angles with the spike, are of no other value than seed-producers. The plant is of a bold, rosulate habit, with broad recurved leaves, which are imbricated at the base ; the colour is light green above and below, vei-y closely marked with transverse streaks and lines of deep green, profusely dotted with brown at the base, and more sparingly at the tips. It is exceedingly ornamental. Brazil. V. HELicoNioiDEB.— This is a handsome vase-like plant, the leaves broad at the base and imbricated, being also recurved towards the tips. They are deep green on the upper side, reddish brown beneath, spike stout, erect, thickly clothed mth closely appressed, reddish crimson sheaths, hearing on the upper part a spike of large boat-shaped bracts, which are crimson- scarlet, tipped with pale green, and from which the flowers scarcely protrude. It is a strikingly beautiful kind from New Grenada. V. Rodigasiana. — This is a short-leaved, compact vase-like plant, with the leaves sHghtly recurved at the tips, and bright green. The spike is erect, branched, and many-flowered; at the base of each branch there is a small crimson bract, each branch bearing four or five large flowers of a canary-yeUow colour. It is a very gay and handsome species, one spike sometimes carrying nearly forty flowers. Native of Brazil. V. sANGUiNOLENTA. — I have never seen the flowers of this plant ; indeed, I am not aware that it has yet bloomed in this country. The leaves are long, broadly strap-shaped, arching, and deep green in colour, pro- fusely marked and blotched beneath with brownish crimson, which shows through to the upper surface and renders it very showy. Brazil. V. GUTTATA is a plant which was introduced to this country about the same time as Y. sanguinolenta, and whilst somewhat resembling that kind, it is quite dis- tinct. In the first place, the leaves are not more than half the length; they are more dilated at the base, and the under side is of a slightly glaucous hue, and the brownish crimson with which it is marked is dis- tributed in separate and distinct spots. I am not aware that it has flowered in this country, but with such beautiful foliage lack of flower is not noticeable. Brazil. V. INCUEVATA. — This is a very distinct plant in habit of growth, and a very showy one when in bloom ; the deep green leaves are erect, narrow, recurved at the tips and pointed ; the sides incurved, very much dilated at the base aud sheathing. The scape is erect, bearing on the upper part a large spike of broad, boat- shaped, closely imbricated bracts, the lower ones being almost gambnge-yellow, the upper ones becoming reddish scarlet ; flowers small, yellow, tipped with green. San Paulo, Brazil. V. SPECiosA. — This is also known as V. zehrina. It has long been in cultivation, and is extremely beauti- ful, the leaves being broadly strap-shaped, arranged in a rosulate manner, sheathed at the base and recurved towards the ends. They are deep gi'een on both sides, and broadly marked with transverse bands of black. The scape is erect, bearing a spike of broad, imbrica- ted bracts, which are bright scarlet; the flowers are small and white, and, like those of the majority of the species, do not last long, hut the bracts retain their brilliant colours for several months. Brazil. V. TESSELLATA. — With this species I conclude my notes upon this genus, but not because the stock of good kinds is exhausted. This species is a very robust plant, and one that I have not seen in flower. It is vase-like in shape, and has broad, erect leaves, which are imbricated at the base, re- curved at the tips, and suddenly pointed ; the ground colour is pale glaucous green, streaked lengthwise as well as across with lines of deeper green, and in the chequers thus formed the colour is creamy white. W. H. G. SHORT NOTES.— STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. Acacia lineata. — Among the numerous varieties of Acacias none are prettier tlian A. lineata, aud Howering as it does in tbe depth of winter it is doubly valuable. It i.s one of the best as a pot plant, and it also blooms very freely, and its slender graceful sprays of deep mange coloured flowers are very pretty when used with small spikes of Solomon's Seal for vases. — E. B. L. Asparagus deeumbens. — This plant appears to have been introduced from the Cape as long ago as 17y2, hut has never become generally cultivated. The branched stem is herbaceous, twining, quite destitute of prickles, the branches being wavy, and clothed with short bristly glaucous leaves. I recently noted this plant on the roof of a greenhouse in Sir Trevor Lawrence's garden. It is really one of the most beautiful plants imaginable for this purpose, as it grows freely when potted in rich sandy loam, water being given somewhat sparingly. — W. H. G. Daphne indica. — If "W. II. G." could see my Daphne indica, he would probably say that mine are as fine aud free-flowering as any existing. They are grown under two distinct conditions; one plant, about 3 feet by 2 feet 0 inches, grows on the ledge of a tank in the greenhouse, and is always damp aud has plenty of root room. The otiier plant, originally a cutting, is growing on a tank over the hot- water pipes, where a certain amount of heat and dry- ness is always present; they have both nearly finished flowering and are now growing strongly. , By the side Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 149 of these are some very large plants of Curcnligo (I believe plicita), and this plant produces leaves 5 feet in length and does well at a very low temperature. I am told by some that it is a difficult plant to estjiblish, coming either from India or Sumatra. — William Soper, 307, Claphmn Road, S.W. WORK IN PLANT HOUSES. BoDVARDiAS. — Where more young plants of these are required, there should be no delay in getting in the cuttings. Where the old plants intended to produce cuttings have been kept in a brisk growing temperature, as advised at the beginning of the year, they will now afford plenty of suitable young shoots, which should be about 2 inches long. In taking them oS they should be severed at the point where they spring from the old wood. Insert them 1 inch or 2 inches apart in pots or pans filled with sand, keep moist, and confine them under propagating glasses or in a striking frame. They should have a temperature of about 70°, and, so treated, they will root in two or three weeks, when give air and afterwards move them singly into small pots filled with sifted loam, to which add some leaf mould, rotten manure, and sand. Keep the plants close for a week or two, after which stand them where they will get plenty of light, and as soon as they have made a little top- growth pinch out the points. Old plants of Bodvaedia. — Plants that have previously flowered, and that after cutting in have made an inch or two of growth, should now be par- tially shaken out and repotted. Bouvardias like rich soil, and good turfy loam, with rotten manure, leaf-mould, and sand, forms a suitable compost for them. Moderate-sized plants such as can be grown in 8-inch or 9-inch pots are generally the most useful, but where there is an inclination to have large specimens, all that is necessary is to give larger pots, say from 10 inches to 12 inches in diameter, and to stop the shoots several times during the early part of the summer. The larger examples are more effective for conservatory decora- tion than ordinary small stock. After potting keep the plants in a genial growing temperature. SOLANUMS. — Those cuttings struck first should now be potted off. Give them soil well enriched with rotten manure and leaf-mould, adding some sand. Push the plants on in moderate warmth. This is neces- sary to get the berries properly coloured before the end of the growing season. Old plants of Solanums that have been cut back should be partially shaken out of the soil as soon as they have made a little new growth. Give them pots an inch larger than those they were grown in last year. It is best not to give these Solanums too much root room, as if the pots are large the plants cannot be so well used in rooms and simUar places. By the use of manure water during the growing season much may be done to make up for the roots being somewhat restricted. Cut-back plants of both S. pseudo- capsicum and S. oapsicastrum may be depended on to colour their berries several weeks earlier than stock raised from cuttings, and on that account it is better to grow a portion of them on for the earliest work. Callicaepa purpueba.— This pretty berry-bear- ing plant is not so much grown as it used to be, yet there is little difficulty in cultivating it. It may be grown from either seeds or cuttings ; if the latter method is adopted no time should be lost. Plants that have been stood in a warm house during the winter will now be in a condition to furnish suit- able cuttings. These should be about 2 inches or 3 inches long. Put six or eight together in 5-inch pots filled with sand. They should have a tempera- ture of about 70°, and be enclosed under propagating glasses or in a striking frame. Keep the sand sufficiently moist to prevent the leaves flagging. As soon as roots are formed admit air gradually. In a few weeks covering may be dispensed with ; then put them singly in small pots drained and filled with a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, rotten manure, and sand. The plant is naturally inclined to grow straggling, and to prevent this not only must the points be pinched out when top growth has made a little progress, but the stopping should be repeated once or twice during the spring and early part of summer. Begonias, oenamental-lbaved. — Much has been done in recent years in the raising of new varieties that have distinct and finely-coloured leaves. Small plants propagated in the usual way from cuttings made of the leaves last summer should now be potted ; 6-inch pots will in most cases be large enough for the first shift, as the plants can be moved again later on. Theywill thrive in either peat or loam, or a mixture of both ; whichever is used, enough sand must be added to keep it porous, as though these Begonias are easily grown, their fleshy roots will not bear close adhesive soil. Older plants should have pots according to the size they are to be grown to. Most of the species and their numerous hybrids will do with a somewhat lower temperature than they are often subjected to, but, as a matter of course, when the plants are kept in intermediate warmth they do not get furnished with new leaves so early in the season as when more heat is given them. To have these Begonias in a sturdy, robust condition that will admit of their being used in cool houses during the summer they must be stood well up to the glass where they will get plenty of light and air, without which the growth will be weak. As soon as the weather becomes bright a little shade will be required in the middle of the day. Caladiums. — To have these plants in good con- dition up to the end of summer, a portion of the plants should be started at different times, as if the whole are started early the leaves get shabby before the close of the season. Some of the strongest roots should now be potted ; use pots proportionate to the size of the tubers, for it is well to give them all the root room at first that will be required dur- ing the season. Either peat or loam will answer for them; mix enough sand with the soil to keep it quite open, as water must be given liberally all through the season. Do not put the tubers too deeply in the soil, as they seldom do well when so treated. As soon as potted they should have a night temperature of about 65°. Directly the young leaves appear, stand the plants well up to the glass in the lightest part of the house, giving a little shade when the sun is bright. Shade is often necessary during the following month in the case of plants that cannot bear full exposure to the sun, for though the days may be cold the atmosphere is frequently as clear as possible, and it often happens that much injury is done thus early in the season. Gloxinias. — Where a sufficient number of old tubers are at hand, it is better to start them at different times, as then a longer succession of flowers is obtained. A portion may now be potted ; 6-inch or 7-inch pots will be big enough for tubers that have flowered one season, giving a size larger to finer examples. A mixture of half peat and half loam, with some leaf-mould and sand, is a suit- able compost. Drain the pots well, and in potting press the soil moderately firm, leaving the tops of the tubers j ust level with the surface. See that the soil is not too wet, and immediately the roots are potted put them in heat. I have known a collection of fine tubers nearly all go rotten through being left on the potting bench for two or three days after potting. A temperature of about 60" in the night will answer; in this they will start in a little time. As soon as the growth begins to move stand the plants where their tops will be near the glass, otherwise the shoots will come too long and weak to produce flowers of the requisite substance. Cytisus racemosus. — This Cytisus is naturally such a free-grower, that it is necessary to cut the plants in closer after flowering than most things of a like character require. As soon as the earliest forced examples have done blooming the shoots should be cut back to half their length. When they have again begun to grow they may be turned out of the pots, and any loose soil that there may be in the upper part of the balls should be shaken away. Give the plants pots about two sizes larger than those they have been in. Turfy loam, with about one-sixth of rotten manure and some sand, makes a suitable compost for them. Drain well and pot firmly. Acacia aemATA. — This is the best of the Acacias for early forcing. By having a sufficient stock a supply of its bright yellow flowers may be had in the latter part of winter and through the spring months. As the earliest bloomed portion go out of flower they should be cut back. The plant is an erect grower, so that to keep the specimens sufficiently furnished at the bottom all the leading shoots should be reduced to within 6 inches of where they were cut back to about this time last year. The weaker shoots are better left untouched, as it is not well to give the plants a formal appearance. If the plants can be kept somewhat warm for a few weeks the new growth will be encouraged. Those that may require it can be repotted. Young stock that has been raised from cuttings within the last two years should now be gone over, and all the strongest shoots shortened a little. If this is not attended to early, the main blanches take the lead and starve the lower ones. It is more necessary to avoid this with plants of this character that if well managed can be kept in a thriving condition for a very long time. T. B. Books. THE FARMERS' FRIENDS AND FOES.* The list of books on insects, &c., which are injurious or beneficial to agriculturists is not a lengthy one, and it has recently been added to by a work by Mr. Theodore Wood, which is a small book written in a popular style, ostensibly one would imagine for far- mers, for though the author in various places alludes to insects which are more injurious to the horticul- turist than to anyone else, he frequently dismisses a group of insects by stating that other species are of more interest to the gardener. But though written for farmers, and containing much that is interesting to them, and that they would do well to read and profit by, yet it is hardly practical enough to be usfd as a handbook on this subject, like Curtis's " Farm Insects," Miss Ormerod's "Injurious Insects," or the very concise reports by Mr. Whitebread. The present work, however, treats on quadrupeds, birds, frogs, and toads, which the others do not. One theme runs through the whole book, which, stated shortly, is " spare the birds;" and in support of this the author never tires of insisting, that whatever injury a bird may do to crops, the services it renders the farmer far more than compensates for it. Two birds, however, the wood pigeon and the bullfinch, are found guilty without any extenu- ating circumstances (except that they destroy the seeds of a few weeds) of injuring crops and fruit buds. Few people will agree with Mr. Wood when he says in the introduction " man in his first and lowest condition is to all intents and purposes at peace with his fellow creatures." " There is no animal which be can justly consider as a personal enemy, none which he can look on as a personal friend." There are various insects whose names we need hardly mention, which, by the lowest and most degraded of human beings, must be looked upon as personal enemies, even if personal cleanliness be deemed a greater evil. Again, beasts of prey can- not but be considered as enemies by the veriest savages, and man has to raise himself but very slightly in the social scale before various animals, and at least one kind of insect (the bee) will be re- garded as friends. Three great methods by which cases of insect attack to crops may be minimised are mentioned which are well worthy of attention. The first "lies in the thorough and effective prepara- tion of the soil before the seed is sown, as in by far the greater proportion of cases the mischief is wrought while the plants are comparatively small and feeble.' Secondly, " all weeds, rubbish, and other ' harbour- age ' should be jealously excluded from fields under cultivation." Thirdly, and most important of all, " the agriculturist should encourage to the utmost of his power the various creatures which prey upon those injurious to himself." It is on this last point that many gardeners and farmers are very indis- crimiaating. Everyone is apt to jump at conclu- * "The Farmers' Friends and Foes." By Theodore Wood. Swan, Sonnenschein, and Co. 1888. 150 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. sioDS, and the persons just mentioned are, unfortu- nately, not exceptions. The author in the subsequent pages endeavours to show which are our foes and which our friends, and anyone differing from Mr. Wood's conclusions will do well not to put them aside as mere naturalist's nonsense, but really to investigate the matter carefully themselves, always remembering that " there are two sides to every question." This book is divided into two parts. Farmers' Foes and Farmers' Friends. Eats are, of course, classed in the former category ; but hardly any methods for their destruction are mentioned ; they are, how- ever, highly recommended as an article of food. Speaking of them the author says : " From much personal experience I can assert that the flesh of the rat is both delicate and well-flavoured, and when prepared in the same manner as that of the rabbit it forms a dish in every way superior." It very probably is prejudice, to a great extent, that prevents rats being used as an article of food. But the prejudice is strong, and not without reason, in spite of the author's theory that it does not matter on what the animals we eat are fed. Mice, like rats are thirsty animals, and, it is said, may be expelled from a stack on a staddle by covering it for a week or two with a tarpaulin, which will prevent the straws being moistened by dew, with which the mice quench their thirst. It is obvious that this plan would only be successful in fine weather, unless the stack was completely covered. Aphides are the first noxious insects mentioned, and the old story is again told of their being carried by ants from the plants on which they are feeding into their nests, in order that they may supply the ants with honeydew. Now an aphis taken from the leaf or stem of a plant cannot possibly get a supply of its proper food in the ants' nest, and without it you might as well expect an aphis to secrete honeydew, as a cow tied up in a stall without any nourishment to give milk. Some aphides feed on the roots of plants, and when an ants' nest is formed near a plant whose roots are infested by aphides, the ants, no doubt, use and take care of them. The Rose-chafer is included among the foes. But it should hardly be considered as one, as it is never very abundant, and the harm it does to farm crops is confined to the flowers of Ttimips left for seed, and must be inappreciable. Nearly two chapters are devoted to the weevils. But the Apions, or Pear weevils, so called from their shape, not from their injuring fruit, are passed over very cursorily; whereas the damage they do to Clover crops is very considerable. An ingenious method is suggested for destroying the corn weevil (Calandra granaria), namely, to enclose the grains in an air-tight tank with a few lighted caudles, which will burn until all the oxygen in the air is consumed, when the beetles will be suffocated. The Bean weevils (Bruchidffi) cause much damage to Broad Beans and Peas, and the author, by some careful experiments, has completely disproved the theory held by some that the Infested Beans well germinate and grow just as well as entire ones. They do germinate, but the plants do not grow as they ought by any means. In speaking of the white butterflies, and particularly of the larger kind, the author says that " it certainly seems possible that in the course of a few years the large white butterfly may be a positive rarity." Those who saw the large swarms of white butterflies which were so noticeable in many places last summer will hardly endorse this opinion. The ring of eggs of the lackey moth are compared " to the closely-fitting steel bracelets which are now becom- ing fashionable among ladies." On making in- quiries in well-informed quarters, no information can be obtained about those fashionable bracelets, except that the police-station was mentioned as a place where such things might be seen. Many of the moths whose caterpillars are injurious to crops are described, but no remedies are suggested, and it is the same with the saw-flies ; in fact, the writer expresses his disbelief in remedies in most cases. The scale insects, which are so injurious to many garden plants, need hardly have been alluded to, as 1 question if any field crop is attacked by them ; but, at any rate, the author should have " got np " his subject better. For instance, he says : " When the dead body of the female scale insect is lifted from off her eggs they are seen to be enveloped in a kind of whitish cottony substance; hence the name of ' mealy bugs ' which is often applied to them." Now this is quite incorrect. When a dead scale insect is lifted from her eggs, they are seen to be naked, and not enveloped in a cottony substance. The name " mealy bug " is given to insects which are members of the same family, but which have no scales ; they are more or less clothed with a cotton-like secretion, and their eggs are covered in a similar manner, but the dead body of the mother does not form a protection to the eggs. Some scale insects expel their eggs in a cottony mass, but they are not found under the dead scale. The author has fallen into the common mistake of confounding the gad, or breeze-flies, with the warble fly ; whereas they are quite different insects, and annoy cattle in a perfectly distinct manner. The gad, or breeze-flies, belong to the family Tabanidfe, and attack cattle and horses, piercing their skins and sucking their blood, caus- ing them much pain, and often making them run wildly about. Their grubs live in damp, moist soil. The warble fly belongs to the family (Eatridae, and in itself is quite harmless, as it has no mouth, but it lays its eggs on the backs of cattle, and the young grubs eat their way through the skin of the animal and live underneath, causing a gall-like swelling. Slugs and millipedes, though so injurious to crops, are hardly mentioned. The second part of the book treats of the farmer's friends, and the author here has evidently a more congenial subject. Many agri- culturists on reading this part will doubtless ex- claim, " Preserve us from our friends," but if they will only go a little further into the matter than they have hitherto done, they will, no doubt, modify their opinion. The case for the moles, sparrows, and other birds is very well and fairly stated, but many of the statistics are naturally very diflicult, or, one may say, impossible to verify. This subject is too wide for discussion in a review. No mention, strangely, is made of bats, which are so useful in destroying night-flying insects ; the amount of moths and other insects they consume must be very considerable. Among the beneficial insects are some strange omissions — the ground beetles (Carabidse), and the large rove or cocktail beetles, or devil's coachhorses (Staphylinidie), which are carnivorous and their grubs as well. Spiders and centipedes also have been forgotten. In the summary, to account for the very few methods for destroying the various foes, the author says : " It is useless to recommend to the farmer a plan of pro- ceeding which will require the outlay of £10 in order to save £5. That is why in the earlier part of this work I have laid so little stress upon the various means of prevention which are strongly re- commended even by high authorities." This book is well got up and fairly illustrated (the figure of the June b\ig (Rhizotrogus solstitialis) is a carica- ture), and contains matter to a great extent taken from the two little books written by Mr. Wood two or three years ago, " Our Insect Friends " and " Our Insect Foes." If, instead of complaining, as is done more than once, of want of space, the author had said what he wanted to say, and condensed some of the " padding," a more useful book would have re- sulted. As we mentioned before, gardeners ami farmers will find much to interest them in this book. Rainfall of 1887.— The following table shows the amount of rain we had here during the year:— Inches. Inches. .Tanu.ary 2-18 August 2'40 February (I'Gd September ... ... 2'73 March I'llt October 2-27 April 0!)0 November I'Sl May ... I'/S December ... ... 1'65 .Tune 1-2!) I .July 07'J ' lO'Oil —John Thomson, Dennis Hall Oarthms, Stour- hrifhjc. Lethorion.— In reply to "A. R.," I have tried Letliorion in iiiy Orchid house, and found it moat etticient — more so, I think, than tobacco paper, but it makes a very dear smoke, and in my opinion it will not be universally adopted till a considerable reduction is made in the price. — J. D. C, Woodford, Broughty Ferry. Orchids. W. H. GOWER. FLOWERING OUCHIDS AT BURFORD LODGE. A VISIT to this charming place, the residence of Sir Trevor LawrenceatDorking, will alwaysprove interesting, no matter what tlie season may be. My previous visit was made about a year ago, and since then there has been a great improvement in the health and general condition of all the plants. This collection ditfers materially from almost every other that I know of in a private establishment, as Sir Trevor Lawrence takes an interest in the small-flowered kinds, as well as those with large and showy blooms, and conse- quently there are to be found many exquisite species which one would seek for in vain else- where. There are many kinds in flower now, and I will commence my notes with the Den- drobiums, of which there are a great many in bloom, including the new hybrid which has been raised in this establishment, and to which Prof. Reiohenbach has given the name of D. clirysodiscus. It is the result of a cross between D. .Ainsworthi and D. Findleyanum, and vice versa, and the offspring have the characters and beauties of both parents ; three distinct forms of this hybrid are now flowering, which wiU re- quire varietal names. The first is a large flower like D. Ainsworthi in shape, the sepals and petals being white, tipped with rose; lip similar, stained from the base and half way over with rich golden orange, and blotched at the base with maroon-purple. Another form has similar flowers, saving that the blotch of purple at the base ia much smaller, and in the third the blotch is entirely wanting, the lip being plain, warm golden orange ; all the forms are delicately scented. Amongst well-known kinds very gay now are D. primulinum and its rare variety giganteum, which has a large-hooded lip, which is pale sulphur-yellow, whilst the sepals and petals are white, tipped with pink, in some forms being nearly wholly pink ; it is a some- what robust grower, pendulous in habit, and therefore thrives best in a hanging basket. There were also many fine forms of D. Wardi- anum, including the extremely rare white- flowered form called candidum ; the old D. nobile is also largely grown here, and many beautiful and distinct forms of this fine species are now to be seen. One called elegans is re- markable for the size of its flowers, which have very broad and full petals, fully half of which are heavily stained with deep rose ; the lip is white in front, and bears a large and well-defined blotch of intense deep velvety crimson at the base. D. nobile intermedium is a very delicate and pretty flower, in which the sepals and petals are white ; lip white, saving a stain of purple just at the base ; the true form is very rare. Then came some good examples of the grand D. nobile nobiliua, a coloured plate of which appeared in The Garden for Sept. 8, 1883. The whole of the petals are rosy purple, which increases in density towards the tips, the lip being blotched in the throat with deep purfjlish crimson, in front of which is a well- defined white belt ; the front portion is tipped with rosy purple. Another grand and rare Den- drobium flowering here is D. Cooksoni, a form which I have only seen upon one previous occa- sion. This is similar to a fine D. nobile, with the addition of having the lower half of its broad petals covered with the same intense deep Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 151 purplish crimson which ornaments the base of the lip. This gives a wonderful depth of colour, and renders the flowers very effective and dis- tinct. Tollianum is another very highly-coloured form of nobile, having flowers that always per- sist in standing upside down. Grand examples of the old D. fimbriatum were in perfection, the rich golden yellow flowers with deeply fringed lip being highly attractive. Also in bloom were the light-flowered form of D, tortile, the rosy purple perpetual-blooming D. bigibbum, D. aggregatum, and the Barber's variety of orassi- node, D. cretaceum, and the Australian D. Bpeciosum and D. Hilli. Slipper Orchids (Cypripediums) are largely grown here, and the collection consists for the most part of fine specimens of even some of the rarest kinds, the leafage of many of them being remarkably beautiful, and they are living con tradictions to the once popular phrase amongst gardeners, " that a plant that possessed beautiful leaves never produced a handsome flower." The most notable amongst the kinds now flowering are grand examples of C. lasvigatum bearing several of its long-petalled flowers upon each scape. This species, together with C. Stonei, requires a somewhat higher temperature than the majority of the kinds. Here also are by far the finest forms of C.villosum and C. Boxalli I have ever seen. The showy C. nitens, re- cently noted flowering at Shepherd's Bush, is also blooming, together with Swannianum, Dutheri, fine varieties of callosum, Sallieri, Haynaldianum and Lowi, which, however much some may wish to make synonymous, are thoroughly distinct and beautiful. C. Williamsi- anum is a somewhat new hybrid obtained be- tween C. Harrisianum and C. villosum, com- bining the markings of both parents in a striking manner. The flowers of barbatum Warneri are extremely brilliant, and although the pouched lip is small, the large pure white dorsal sepal, which is broadly marked with an arched belt of fiery crimson, renders it very con.spicuous. All these Cypripediums are kept scrupulously clean, and their pots stand upon a lattice stage raised some few inches above a bed of shingle which is kept very moist and from which a genial evaporation constantly rises, the plant being exposed to the full light. Laslias are re- presented by a fine raceme of bloom on L. superbiens, and it is to be hoped that this species will become better known. It does not appear to require a great amount of heat, as it is grown in a cool intermediate house. The raceme is bearing seven flowers, the habit of the plant and its manner of flowering suggesting a near aflinity to Schomburgkia, of which there are several fine examples that will shortly be in bloom. Of the white - flowered Lielias there were numerous varieties in bloom, but I have become so utterly confused with their names that I do not know which is which. I saw lately in the collection of Mr. Tautz a truly grand form which 1 was assured was Mr. Sander's true Schrcederi- ana ; here I find Schrcederiana of some is a deeply coloured form of anceps. Williamsi in some places has a pure white lip ; in others the front lobe is more or less coloured, so that one gets utterly bewildered. One of these white forms, however, is superbly beautiful, tlie best of all beiug L. anceps Veitchi. The flowers are very large, and the sepals and petals broad, all pure white, lip large, white, the side lobes streaked with pale rose or rosy mauve, front lobe tipped with the same colour, crest yellow. Vestalis is a pure white flower, saving some rich purple radiating lines inside the side lobes of the lip, but most of the other white forms are more or less tipped with colour on the front lobe. Coelogyne cristata formed quite an exhibition in itself, hundreds of blooms in diffe- rent varieties being open. Curiously enough, at nearly all the places I visit I hear that the va- riety called maxima is deteriorating in size. Can anyone explain this ? Other species of this genus now flowering are C. flaccida with a profusion of pendent spikes, C. conferta, sparsa, and elata, whilst a grand example of the lovely C. barbata was just past its best. MASDEVALLIA IGNEA. The accompanying illustration shows a well- grown example of this very distinct and hand- some species, bearing upwards of sixty flowers. Masdevallia ignea was tirst introduced to this country during the early part of the year 1870 from the mountain regions of New Granada, where it is said to grow upon the ground near In the variety Massangeana the flowers are larger than those of the typical plant and of a bright orange-vermillion suflfused with a tinge of rosy purjjle. Aurantiaca is a form with rich orange-coloured flowers, the veining very deeply coloured and prominent, whilst in the variety Boddaerti the flowers are pale yellow, passing into vivid scarlet, the surface being irregularly mottled with yellow and veined with crimson. All the members in this group of Slasdevallias require to be kept very cool and moist all the year round, and when the growth is being formed the plants must have a copious supply of water to their roots. The atmosphere, also, must be well charged with moisture. They en- joy a deep shade and a temperature of about G0°. If grown under these conditions the leaves will not be disfigured by thrips, which usually attack the plants in hot weather. W. H. G. Masdevallia cucuUata. — This is called the Hooded Masdevallia, but a better name would be the MasdevaUia ignea. the foot of trees, and to be sometimes found growing up the trunk a short distance amongst the Moss thereon. It is the most showy of any member of the genus yet introduced, and may be easily dis- tinguished from all the other kinds by the peculiar manner in which the upper filiform sepal is bent down between the lateral ones, and also by the intensely deep red nerves which traverse the lower sepals. These charac- ters are peculiar to the species, and remain constant. In the typical plant here figured the leaves are about 6 inches long, narrowed towards the base into a long petiole, the blade bemg thick and deep green. The scape is erect, slender, longer than the leaves, and bears upon the top a solitary flower, of which the sepals are the most beautiful portions, being of a vivid cinnabar-red, veined with lines of deep red, the reverse side pale orange-red ; they are united at the base into a somewhat gibbous tube, in which the very small white petals and lip are hidden. Nigger Orchid, as its flower is as black as the darkest nigger. It is a rare, curious, and, many would add, a beautiful plant. The flowers have pointed, tailed sepals, forming a sort of triangle. The flowers are wliat may be appropriately called coifee-black, with a yellow centre. It is not so quaint-looking as the black varieties in the Chimaira section. It is in flower at Kew.—W. Saocolabium illustre.— This is a fine variety of the popular S. giganteum, and these two are amongst the most notable of winter-flowering Orchids, as the flowers are not only of considerable beauty, but deli- ciously fragrant. The variety has a longer raceme than the type, and individually the flowers are larger, but of finer colouring. The sepals and petals have their edges folded backwards, and they are spotted with a rich pui-plish-crimson hue on a white ground. The bright violet-crimson hp gives great beauty to the flower. It is in bloom at Mr. Bull's, Chelsea. Cattleya speciosissima Ernesti.— This is a very lovely Cattleya, but the type is generally regarded as shy flowering; this, doubtless, wiU ere long be overcome when we are more fully acquainted with its requirements. The variety Ernesti, however, blooms regularly twice a year, the flowers being finely coloured and upwards of 7 inches across. The petals 152 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. are very broad, round and fall, and with the sepals are of a clear deep rose, the trumpet-shaped lip being rich purple, prettily crisped at the edge, and stained with pale yellow in the throat. I recently noted a nice example of this variety flowering in The Woodlands collection at Streatham. — W. H. G. Odontoglossum Humeanum. — This has very much the cbaricter of O. Rossi, and is reputed to be a natural hybrid between that species and O. cor- datum. Plants of it were recently in flower at Messrs. Shnttleworth and Carder's nursery, Clapham, and it must be classed amongst the prettiest of this section of Odontoglossums. The sepals are spotted thickly with brown, and the petals blotched, the lower half with the same colour, while the other portion is pale lemon, the broad lip showing a slight tinge of pink, the tip of the column being of a deeper shade. It is a free grower and a good companion for O. Eossi. Pilumna nobilis. — Those who require a flower at once pure in colour and deliciously scented should make a note of P. nobilis, which was recently in bloom at Messrs. Shuttleworth and Carder's nursery at Clapham. The scape is erect, proceeds from the base of the pseudo-bulb, and can-ies about live flowers, the great feature of which is the broad, finely-shaped lip, quite white, except a blotch of bright yellow in the throat ; the sepals and petals are very narrow, and also white. It is very similar to P. fragrans, but the two are quite distinct, the blooms of P. nobilis being considerably larger. It is an Orchid that thrives well in a cool house. Dendrobitiin craesinode Barberiannm. — The typical form of this species is very beautiful, bnt Mr. Barber's variety is much superior to it, and varies considerably io different plants. One of the finest that I remember having seen is now flowering in the collection of Mr. Buoban, AVilton House, Southampton, the sepals and petals for more than a third of their length being heavily marked with deep rich magenta, whilst the lip is wholly rich orange, saving a very narrow band of white in front of the magenta-coloured point. — W. Cypripedium leucorrhodum. — This is a Veitchian hybrid between C. Koezli and C. Sohlimi album ; it is now flowering in Mr. Measures' collec- tion at Streatham, and with Sir Trevor Lawrence at Burford Lodge. Beautiful as this variety was when exhibited by the Messrs. Veitch, at both these places it is far superior. The dorsal sepal is snowy white, tinged with delicate flesh colour, the lower sepal being very large and snow white; petals slightly twisted, white, tipped and bordered with flesh colour ; lip creamy white, flashed with pink. It appears to be a strong grower, and, judging from its parentage, it should thrive in the temperature of the intermediate house. — H. liSelia elegana. — The grandest form of this species I have ever seen is now flowering in the col- lection of Mr. Measures, at Streatham. It is far superior even than that fine variety called Tur- ner!, which has hitherto been considered the deepest and richest coloured form, and which is still ex- tremely rare. It appears that some time last season Mr. Measures obtained from Mr. Sander, of St. Albans, two imported masses of L. elegans which were labelled by the traveller who collected them ; 1, La^lia elegans " The King of the Woods ; " the second plant, which was the strongest in growth, and still attached to the branch of the tree upon which it had originated, was labelled " The King of all the Woods," and it is this plant that is now flowering upon two of the three shoots which have grown since its importation. Judging from the blooms which have been produced from these growths, which are not so strong as those made in its native country, it is a magnificent variety. In growth it is very robust, and the pair of leaves borne upon the top of the pseudo-bulbs are large, thick, and leathery in texture. Each raceme is bearing six flowers, each of which is upwards of GJ inches across ; the sepals and petals deep rosy purple, the latter being lij inches in diameter and spathulate in shape, whilst the sepals are oblong- lanceolate ; lip large, three-lobed, the side lobes rolled over the column and pure white, the points being slightly recurved and tipped with deep rosy purple. The middle lobe is fully 2 inches across, the colour being intense deep crimson-lake, this extending along the throat to the very base. In addition the flowers are strongly perfumed like the Heliotrope. Grand as these flowers are, I imagine they will be s-till finer when the plant becomes thoroughly established and forms strong growths, as it has been doing in its native country. This plant has been grown in an intermediate tempe- rature, and is rooting vigorously round its native block. The other form is also showing flower, but it is rather unfortunate that the superior variety should bloom first. — W. H. G. Cattleya Triane Osmani. — This is a splendid form and the original plant came from an importa- tion in the collection of Mr. Dodgson, of IJlack- burn. At his death the collection was dispersed, and Osman's variety of C. Trianse realised the sum of £225 I'ls. Since then the plant, I suppose, has been divided and distributed, for I recently noted a beautifully healthy plant in flower in Mr. Measures' collection at Streatham. It bears some- times as many as five flowers on a scape, each of which is 7 inches across, the sepals and petals being very broad and rich rosy magenta in colour, lip large, 2i inches across, brilliant velvety magenta- crimson in colour, and narrowly bordered round the margin with rosy magenta; the deep colour extends very far back into the throat, where there is a stain of yellow.— W. H. G. Kitchen Garden. KITCHEN GARDEN NOTES. Eabliest Tomatoes. — Plants raised in January ought now to be growing strongly. If still in the seed-pot or pan, they ought at once to be potted off, and from first to last no severe check should be given. Our sturdiest and best plants are obtained by potting direct from the seed-pots into uinch pots, and before they are root-bound the final shift is given. Only for a few days do the newly-potted seedlings require shading, and directly they are making fresh growth, a sunny shelf in a forcing house is the best place for them. The plants may be fruited in lo-inch pots, but if there is room for larger sizes on the stages, walls, or shelfs, r2-inch pots are more suitable. These should only be lightly drained, and if smaller pots than any that have yet been mentioned must be employed, one large crock is sufiicient for these, there being more space for roots and soil, and less water accordingly needed. If good turfy loam is available very little manure need be added ; but, failing this, the com- post may consist of two parts of fresh loam to one of old Mushroom-bed manure or partially-decayed stable manure, a liberal addition of burnt garden re- fuse or charcoal improving it. Warm the compost before using it, and this is easily done with the aid of heattd bricks plunged in the soil. Place some of the roughest over the crocks and pot firmly, filling only to about one-third of the depth of the pot. Later on, or when the first fruits are set, a liberal top-dressing of rich compost may be given. Plants to be fruited in an upright position should be staked early, and those to be trained up wires or strings near the glass should be in position before they become crooked. In either case, the system of training one stem only is the best, all side shoots being kept closely nipped out as they form. Newly potted plants must be carefully watered at first, but when well established plenty of water and liquid manure ought to be given to them. Old Tomato plants. — It is not always advis- able to destroy the old plants that have borne crops through the past autumn and winter. Supposing they are not infested with either white-fly or mealy bug, they may be quickly brought into full bearing again. Worn-out plants may be destroyed as well as any in a dirty state and afresh start made, but any planted out in a confined border, and trained thinly either over the roof of a house or against unshaded back walls onght to have the haulm freely thinned out and all dead or dying foliage removed. Much of the .surface soil of the bed or border ought al.so to be forked away, then well watered if dry, and a top-dressing of fresh loamy compost given. Plants in large boxes may also be similarly treated, a rim being added if there is not sufiicient depth to hold the fresh soil. Thus treated, the plants form a number of short fruitful shoots throughout their extent, and these are soon furnished with clusters of fruits. Overhead syringings benefit these old plants. Capsicums and Chilliei?. — The surest way of growing and ripening plenty of these is to devote a warm pit to the plants, putting them out to follow early Potatoes or Beans. Some seasons the fruits also ripen well on south borders, in front of Vine borders, and against sunny front walls of various houses. In any case it is advisable to make an early start, as Capsicums and Chillies are not of very rapid growth. The best are the Long Red, Long Yellow, and Red Cherry Capsicums, and the com- mon Chilli. These are also exceptionally hot, and suitable either for pickles or for converting into cayenne pepper. Capsicums Red Tomato-shaped, Yellow Tomato-shaped, Golden Dawn, and Prince of Wales, being milder in flavour, are usually grown more for ornament than use. The seed may be sown now and soon germinates in gentle heat. The seedlings after being set for a time on a shelf and well exposed to the light and sunshine may be dibbled round the sides of 6-inch pots filled with good loamy soil, three in each being sufficient. They should be kept growing in heat until well established, when a warm greenhouse shelf is the best place for them. They may eventually be planted out in either of the positions recommended for them, or fruited in the same pots, these being plunged in order to save watering. No stopping is necessary, all being of branching habit, and those in full bearing need occasional supplies of liquid manure. Shallots and Gaelic. — These ought to be planted early on a sunny spot and in fairly rich, well-worked soil. Select the soundest bulbs and press these firmly into the soil about Ci inches apart in rows 12 inches apart, but not quite burying them. This is allowing rather more room than is usually given them, and in order to economise space, I later on dibble between them rows of Parsley raised in gentle heat. The Shallots and Garlic are ripening off by the time the Parsley has attained a good size, the latter eventually covering the whole of the ground. In point of evenness and quality Parsley thus raised surpasses any that may be obtained by sowing seed where the plants are to grow. Rhubaeb and Seakale. — Lifting the roots and forcing them in Mushroom houses and other warm positions is the simplest method of obtaining early supplies, but, as a rule, much the finest produce results from forcing or protecting the plants where they are permanently established. Strong clumps of Rhubarb should be covered with either old flour or cement tubs, deep square boxes, large draining pipes, or pots especially made for this purpose, and then well covered with hotbed material. I prefer a mixture in equal proportions of leaves and stable manure, and this ought always to have been pre- viously prepared, or otherwise it is apt to become over-heated. If manure only is used care must be taken that it does not become too hot and spoil the Rhubarb. Seakale may be covered with pots made for this purpose. Failing these, a mound of either spent tan, leaf soil, or ashes may be raised over the crowns, a depth of about :i feet of heating material being necessary for forcing in either case. Rhu- barb and Seakale are here planted In double rows, which are enclosed by one hotbed. For the later supplies fresh hotbeds must be made, much of the old material being available for mixing with the fresh. The exhausted crowns ought to be cleared of the bulk of the forcing material, but must be protected for a time from severe frosts with the aid of a little litter. I usually leave two long rows of Seakale to grow naturally, these being first covered with a ridge of rotten tan not less than 9 inches deep, common garden soil being heavily banked over this. During April and early in May very fine well-blanched and succulent tops are cut from these rows. Rhubarb may also be materially forwarded and improved in quality by having a temporary Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 153 protection afforded it. Tabs, boxes, or stakes and litter all answer well for this purpose, and should be placed over the crowns at once. Propagating Sbakale. — One-year-old seedlings are rarely strong enough for forcing, but plants ob- tained from root cuttings can be grown to a service- able size in one season. It is the medium-sized younger roots or those near the size of a man's little finger that should be selected, plenty of these being found when the old crowns are lifted for forcing, and many more may be cut from the latter after they are done with. Cut them into 3-inch lengths, snipping a small piece off the smallest end in order to guard against inserting them the wrong way or thinnest end uppermost. It is too early to place them in the open ground, and the best plan is to dibble them about 3 inches apart in shallow boxes filled with fine loamy soil. These may be set in a cool shed, house, or frame, and protected from severe frosts, and will soon commence both root and top growth, well-rooted plants being ready for transplanting to a deeply-dug, well-manured quarter sotne time in May. The variety known as Lily White is a decided improvement on the old form, and ought to be increased as rapidly as possible, every short length of root being saved and converted into a plant. Horse Radish C0LTUEE. — In many gardens the Horse Eadish bed is placed in some out-of-the-way spot and left to take its chance, nothing in the shape of cultivation being attempted. As a con- sequence, good straight roots are very difficult to find. It well repays, however, for a little extra attention, and this it should receive at the present time. Select a fresh quarter outside the garden walls if possible, and thoroughly trench the soil, the top spit with manure added being buried, and at least 12 inches of the poorer sub-soil brought to the surface. Next break up all or the greater portion of the old bed, forking out all the roots and crowns that can be found, no matter how deeply they run, as every little piece is liable to form a crown and become a nuisance. Sort over all that are found, the very best roots being bedded in at the foot of a north wall and drawn from as required for use. Both the crowns and clean young roots are suitable for planting. The former should have 3 inches of root attached, be cleared of any side buds, and then dropped into holes made with a dibber, not less than 12 inches deep, and the same distance apart each way. These will soon strike root into the good soil below and strong top growth will result. The stems formed between the old deeply-buried growth and the surface swell rapidly, and are sometimes fit to cut at the end of the season. If traced and cut near their starting point the same roots will push up fresh growths, which, if duly thinned out, will also grow to a serviceable size in one or two seasons. The long clean roots without crowns may be cut into 12-inch lengths, and should have all side roots or buds removed with the aid of a coarse cloth, this being done to prevent the formation of strong side roots. They ought then to be dibbled in to their full depth, the points only coming into contact with the rich soil below. When top-growth commences thin out the buds, only one crown being allowed to form. Thus treated, the buried stems swell rapidly, fine straight pieces being fit for lifting in less than a year. W. I. M. least 300 tons per acre, but this is probably an ex- ceptionally fine crop, and under average cultivation not more than 100 tons per acre could be expected. This is still a great advance on ordinary crops, which vary from 3 tons to 12 tons per acre. Ac- cording to the last return, there are in Great Britain 559,652 acres of Potatoes under cultivation ; conse- quently, if this variety were grown, more than 55,000,000 tons might be produced. As our popu- lation of 40,000,00(1 would find it difficult to con- sume as much as a ton per head, the country might be saved the cost of foreign Potatoes, the importa- tion of which has never reached 500,000 tons in a year. It must be admitted that the raiser of this new Potato is entitled to public gratitude. — Edmund Tonks. *«* The tendency to exaggerate in advertisements as well as catalogues is a hurtful one to the trade as well as to the public. The business as well as the interest of the trade is to get as near the truth as possible. — Ed. An extraordinary crop of Potatoes.— The rapid advance in modern cultivation was forcibly brought under my notice by an illustration in the advertisement section of your number for Jan. 2H of the crop of a new variety of Potato, which repre- sents the happy grower directing with pride the at- tention of a neighbour to the produce of his labours. In scale this grower is eight Potatoes high, and, as- suming him to be 5 feet 4 inches, the Potatoes would measure 8 inches by 6 inches, and could not be less than 3 inches thick. The crop, according to the illustration, is so abundant that, if spread over the surface, it would form a solid layer of 3 inches (actually much more, but I allow for a little exag- geration). Now an inch of rain is more than 100 tons of water on an acre, and Potatoes are heavier than water ; therefore, the crop represented is at POTATOES. Although we have so far had a winter of mixed weather, the temperature changing rapidly and often, yet, so far, cold seems to have predominated, that seed Potatoes, indeed, I may say, all Potatoes generally, are keeping well, the bud eyes remaining dormant. I will not answer for Potatoes in pits, because I know that under any circumstances it is difficult to keep them from sprouting when so stored. I admit that in the case of immense quan- tities, such as the product of 100 acres, for example, it is difficult to find other methods of storing Pota- toes in bulk, but it would be very bad policy indeed not to have selected the seed tubers at the first, and have given them shed or store room of some sort where they could have ample air, and be occasion- ally turned. A neighbour of mine, who somewhat foolishly invested in the purchase of some thirty tons of late-lifted Magnum Bonums, and pitted them, found, to his annoyance, when the pit was tapped two months later, that the entire mass was soft and pulpy, the heat arising from fermentation having practically rotted the new tubers, of which more than one half of the bulk of the heap was composed. Nothing could have been worse than pitting these Potatoes, brought direct from the ground where lifted, and not even dried before pitting. However, such new or young tubers should not have been pitted at all, as if exposed well first, then stored in a shed, and covered with straw, they would not have heated, and would have remained sound. I fear very many pitted stocks of late-dug- up Potatoes have decayed in the same way, but these were incidents of bad storing, and not so much faults of the season. Generally the tubers have suffered little from sweating — a common product of great change of temperature, as seen after severe frost when suc- ceeded by rapid thaw. The moisture seen then is probably condensed vapour which the intense cold, combined with coverings, has held bound until liberated by the change of temperature, when it has condensed. Some of that moisture may come from the tubers, but the bulk comes from the atmo- sphere, no doubt ; hence sweating under such conditions as these is not particularly harmful. The sweating induced by heating or fermentation, irrespective of external temperature, is of a very different nature, and quite within the control of those who store the tubers. However, this natural sweating has been rare this season, and so far seems attributable to the fact that we have had no striking changes in the temperature, the cold having been moderate and the warmth less marked than is usually seen during mild winters. Where it is purposed to plant early it is well now to go over the seed stocks and select some of the best and most even tubers, stand them in shallow boxes and place them in a greenhouse where there is just warmth enough to promote gentle growth. The boxes should be as near to the light as possible, and the heat pressure so gentle, that it should take quite a month to secure that development of shoot the plant requires. If tubers so placed be also well hardened to make planting perfectly safe at a very early date. There is this special advantage in thus selecting and starting tubers, that after growth is very even. Still farther, the very earliest may be planted first, and those later or more irregular in breaking can be planted after. Shoot-breaking in this way presents almost an infallible method of detecting rogues should there be any in the stocks. Even for later planting some starting of the tubers after this fashion is well where it is desired to obtain an even sample of tubers for exhibition. It is a well-known fact that too many shoots to a Potato plant mean also a large number of small tubers. This abundance of small stems on a plant always follows when the tubers have been badly stored and have broken early and weakly. These shoots have, of course, to be re- moved, and a larger number of shoots then break up from every eye, with the result that tubers are many, but small ; also some kinds of Potatoes are naturally very prolific of shoots, and these need thinning before the sets are planted. Therefore, all sets should never have more than two stout shoots, all the rest being removed with the aid of a pointed knife. Some good growers reduce their shoots to one only, and even then on rich soil with all the strength of the tubers thrown into this one shoot, eventually turning out wonderful crops. There is a too common belief that the excellent cultivation with ample room usually given to Potar toes planted to produce exhibition tubers is need- less labour in the case of ordinary garden crops. That is, however, an error, for not only are truly wonderful crops produced under higher cultivation, but the samples are relatively finer, more handsome, and more equable. If gardeners or otheri, in aim- ing at high cultivation for Potatoes as well as other crops, had no regard whatever for exhibitions, but simply strove to secure the best which good culti- vation could produce, they will still always have the very finest and handsomest of show samples. The desire to produce the best in any case should be the dominant idea rather than a mere desire to win prizes. No garden crop gives better recom- pense for good culture than do Potatoes, and it is doubtful whether any good crop affords greater pleasure in harvesting it. But to ensure success, in addition to good well-prepared seed of the best kinds, the soil must also be well pulverised and fairly well manured. In the case of first early sorts, a liberal dressing of manure may be applied with impunity, because the crop will certainly be lifted early. Later crops which have to stand longer in the ground and do not need rapid driving will make stouter and harder stems if the soil be not too highly manured, whilst the tubers will be all the drier when matured. Potato soil, however, can hardly be too deeply or freely worked, and if presenting literally a bed of ashes, but still rich, the resulting crop for any purpose will far more than recoup the cost of labour involved in the prepara- tion of the soil. A. D. EARLY RADISHES. Apaet from Mus.tard and Cress, there is no kind of salad that becomes so quickly fit for use as Radishes. By sowing seed of the China Rose variety in September a supply may be kept up all the winter in the open, but in March and April these become so hot and tough that the spring-sown ones are eagerly sought after. It is, however, impossible to grow early Radishes in the open ground. They must have protection and a little heat, and the best place for them is a gentle hotbed and a frame. I have known some growers plant Potatoes in frames about this time and sow the Radishes between the sets. This system answers in a way, but not altogether, as when the Potatoes grow "rapidly the foliage shades the Radishes so much as to prevent many of them from developing. I am greatly in favour of growing the Radishes by themselves, and it may be done without much expense. A slight hotbed is necessary, and the material should be packed up firmly to a height of 18 inches or so ; then put 6 inches of moderately rich soil inside the exposed to the light and air, they will be sufficiently I frame that is placed on the bed. Make the soil 154 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. veiy firm and level, and sow the seed broadcast on the surface. A covering of 1 inch more of soil should be put on the top of the seed to cover it, and then beat it with the back of the spade. The lights should then be put over the frame, but do not water the soil, as the moisture from the manure will soon make it sufficiently moist. The seed will soon germinate, and on fine days admit a little fresh air to prevent the top growths from becoming too large. Should severe weather follow their sow- ing give them a little protection, but it is not necessary to treat them as if they were exotics. A two-light frame of the ordinary size will produce many scores of bundles of nice young Radishes, and by sowing the seed at once or during the next few days the produce will be plentiful in March and onwards. Cambbian. Propagating. Dracsnas. — The early months of the year bring a glut of propagating work of all kinds, and among those things that need attention at this season are the Dracaenas, where it is intended to work up a stock of them. As Dracfenas are in many cases employed for the decoration of the dwelling-house during winter, many of them will by spring have lost their bottom leaves, and consist of only a naked stem with a tuft of leaves on the top. Such specimens as these make the best of stock plants, for they can be shaken out of their pots, the top cut off to form a cutting, while the stem and main roots may be divided and laid in tiU they start into growth. On turning the plants out of the pots and removing as much of the soil as possible with the hand, a very good way is to hold the mass of roots under a tap for a few moments, provided the water is not too cold, or a pail of luke- warm water may be used in which the roots can be washed quite clean without being injured. Atten- tion sliould first be directed towards the top of the plant, which must be cut off just far enough below the central tuft of leaves to allow 2 inches or .3 inches of stem for insertion in the soil. It should then be placed in a small pot, putting a few crocks for drainage in the bottom. The soil best suited for this purpose is equal parts of peat and sand, with the addition of a little loam. When these tops are put in they should be plunged in a bottom heat of from 80° to 85^, and kept in a close propagating case untU rooted. When in the'propagating case the lights must be taken off every morning to dry up any superabundant moisture, and an opportunity is then presented of removing any signs of decay should they be visible, and also of watering the cut- tings if necessary. In the crown of the plants ex- cess of moisture must be guarded against, as this is apt to cause the young and tender leaves to decay. After the tops of the plants are disposed of there still remain the stem and thick fleshy roots, or "toes" as they are frequently called. These may be cut up into lengths of 3 inches or 4 inches, and laid horizontally on a bed of Cocoa-nut refuse, and covered with about an inch of the same material. They will not need any water till growth takes place, the first intimation of which is the young delicate leaves, which are freely pushed up from the various joints of the buried stem. It is as well to allow them to make three or four leaves before dis- turbing them, when on taking the stems out of the material in which they have lain it will be found that most of the young shoots have formed a few roots at their base. All that is needed then is to pot them, and in the case of those that are not rooted treat them as cuttings until they strike. If the stems are of any particular variety, they may be laid in again after the crop of shoots has been taken, but the second batch will be by no means equal to the first ; indeed, in many cases the return scarcely makes up for the trouble. Some people lay the stems in pots or pans, and where there are a great number of varieties, this is perhaps the better way, for there is then not so much risk of mistake as when they are laid in the fibre together. When this method is followed, each sort may be assigned a separate pot or pan. For laying them in after this manner I prefer sandy peat to Cocoa-nut refuse. There is a class of Dracajnas represented in our gardens by such sorts as congesta, gracilis, and Goldieana, which wiU not push up shoots from the stem if [buried, and ;consequently other methods for their propagation have to be resorted to. They cannot be increased as rapidly as the others, and the most successful mode of procedure is to take off the top of a plant and insert it as a cutting in the same way as recommended above, then allow the decapitated stem to remain undisturbed in the pot. After a time one or more shoots will be pushed out and when sufficiently advanced they may be utilised as cuttings. If more than one shoot is produced from the old stem, those nearest the top will, as a rale, make much more rapid progress than those lower down. In this manner a few stock plants will yield a considerable number of cuttings if they are put in whenever sufficiently advanced. In the case of large specimens or any very particular variety with which it is advisable to run no risk, a very good plan is, some time before removing the head to make two or three incisions in the stem just below the crown of foliage and tie some Moss around it, or a small pot may be divided in such a way that the pieces when put together will encircle the stem, and being secured in their place with a piece of wire, will form a receptacle for the rooting medium. A mixture of Sphagnum and peat is as good as anything for the purpose, but whatever is em- ployed it must be kept in an equal state of moisture in order to encourage the formation of roots. A near ally of the Drac;enas, Cordyline australis, is, especi- ally when confined in rather small pots.liable to raise itself for some distance out of the pot by means of stout, fang-like appendages from the base of the plant, and if these are cut oil and placed under con- ditions favourable to growth, they soon form neat little plants. In the same manner most of the Yuccas can also be increased. Cannas.— Directions are often given to file the seeds of Cannas, or of any other plants that are very hard, in order to assist germination, but it is by no means necessary, as the same end may be attained without any danger if they are soaked in water a little time before sowing. A very good plan is to put the seeds in some receptacle that will hold water, and stand it on the pipes or in some spot where the water will be maintained at a tempera- ture of from 7:j° to 80". If allowed to remain there about twenty-four hours the seed may be taken out and sown at once, when it will very soon germinate if the pots are placed in a hot-bed or in a warm structure, provided care is taken that they are not allowed to become dry after being sown. This last is especially necessary in the case of all seeds that have been soaked in water before sowing. Of course Cannas can also be increased to a consi- derable extent by means of division, and this is best carried out now before they start into growth. The soil must be shaken from the roots, when they can be cut up into as many pieces as there are eyes and potted singly. If plunged in a gentle bottom heat the plants soon grow away strongly. Some- times the root is almost destitute of visible buds, and in that case it plunged in bottom heat and just covered with Cocoa-nut refuse it will soon push up from the joints. Now that dwarf-growing Cannas seem likely to become popular, more attention will, no doubt, be directed towards their propagation. Dahlias. — Where these are propagated in quan- tity, the tubers that have been dormant during the winter should be gone over (removing at the same time any signs of decay) and placed under condi- tions favourable to growth. They may be either potted in some good light soil or laid on a stage and just covered with Cocoa fibre or decayed leaves. Where there are several of a sort this last method gives least trouble, but where the stock plants are limited to single specimens it is better to pot them, as then there is no danger of mistakes happening. In a temperature of Bti' to 70" they soon start into growth, and when the young shoots are long enough they may be taken off as cuttings and treated as most soft-wooded subjects are. Where it is desired to increase the stock only to a limited extent it will be often possible with a sharp knife to divide some of the masses of roots, taking care, however, to leave a sound tuber and a good eye on each portion. Tuberous Begonias. — The present is a good time to sow seeds of these popular plants, as if sovm now and attended to carefully afterwards they will make good flowering plants this year. For the re- ception of the seeds, pots or pans should be prepared by draining them well and filling them to within half an inch of the surface with light open soil. The surface of the soil having been made level, it must be watered with a fine rose, and while still moist the seedjshould be sown thereon. Care should be taken not to sow the seed too thickly, and no covering whatever will be needed if a pane of glass is laid over the surface of the pot. In a tempera- ture of about 70° the young plants will soon make their appearance, and when sufficiently advanced to be handled without danger they must be pricked off. Directly they are thoroughly above ground the young plants should be well exposed to the light, and every means taken to encourage as sturdy a growth as possible. T. Trees and Shrubs. PYBUS SOKBUS VAES. MALIFORMIS AND PYRIFORMIS. Of the several varieties of the Service tree to be found in England, Pyrus Aucuparia (the Mountain Ash) would seem to be the only one that has been extensively planted. The two named above, the Apple and Pear-shaped-fruited true Service trees, in common with others, are considered indigenous to this country, and are very numerous in France and the south of Europe, but they are seldom met with in England, at any rate in the form of large speci- mens. They both, however, grow to a considerable size, have handsome, shapely heads, and may there- fore be safely included in any list where rare de- ciduous trees are required. I am not aware that any conclusion has been arrived at as to their longevity in this country, but they are credited with attaining in France an age of 1000 years. If this be so, they are certainly, like Pears, among the trees one would plant " for his heirs." Both varieties make considerably larger trees than the Mountain Ash. Our plant of the Pear-shaped variety is close on 70 feet high, with a girth of 7 feet at 4 feet from the ground ; it has formed a handsome, shapely head on two sides, but on the south and east fronts other trees have unfortunately been allowed to get too close, and have consequently forced it in the opposite direction and destroyed its sym- metry. The one or two specimens of Pyrus malif or- mis with which I am acquainted are not so high as this plant of pyriformis, and, indeed, appear inclined, after they get between 30 feet and 40 feet high, to become furnished at the stem and head ratherthan increase in height. The leaves are longer than those of the Mountain Ash, and the leaflets (thirteen in number) are broader and more thickly set on the stalk. The flowers, which are produced in May, are white, and might be an attractive feature on small trees ; they are, however, hardly noticeable when the plant attains large dimensions. The fruit of the Pear-shaped variety is produced in clusters of six or seven, and is about the size of an ordinary Cob-nut; it is of a dull brown colour when decayed, and, although not acceptable to most palates, is to my thinking preferable to the Medlar, being sharper and of a more piquant flavour. Neither of the va- rieties are likely to be so extensively planted in England as to be of any service as timber trees. The wood, however, seems to be highly appreciated on the Continent, where, according to Loudon, it is much prized by wheelwrights for their better class work, and the same authority also says that it has a compact grain and takes a high polish. Our plant of P. Sorbus pyriformis, growing in alow shel- tered spot not far above the level of a neighbouring lake, has about the best position that could be found tor it as regards soil, the sandy loam being some- what closer and of considerably greater depth then in other paits of the pleasure ground. There is no doubt that both vaiieties are perfectly hardy in this country. I should, however, advise any who Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 155 contemplate giving them a trial to select a warm sheltered spot for planting. They will associate well with the Beech in variety, Planes, Lom- bardy Poplars and Maples. El Burrbll. Clarenumt. WINTER TINTS OF CONIFER.!;. Many Conifers exhibit a great change during the winter months, the foliage at that season becoming more or less suffused with bronzy red or brown, and in a few cases this wintry tint is very pronounced. A few of the most conspicuous bronzy-coloured Coni- ferte just now would include Biota elegantissima, which is perhaps the richest tinted of any. This is a fastigiate variety of the Chinese Arbor-vitie, which does not attain the dimensions of the type, and it also differs therefrom in the foliage being of a rich golden hue, which changes during winter to a sort of bronzy orange, suffused with red. The golden Arbor- vitse (Biota orientalis aurea), a dwarf , globular bush which is so frequently planted, becomes brownish during winter, but is altogether wanting in the rich hue of the preceding. About the variety raeldensis there has been from time to time con- siderable difference of opinion. It is a somewhat upright-growing form, but one that, from the weak character of its branches, usually presents an un- gainly appearance. The foliage is just now of a reddish brown hue. The leaves of this variety are longer than those of any of the other forms, and the plant bears a resemblance to a Juniper, and was at first supposed to be a hybrid between the Red Cedar and the Chinese Arbor-vitie, but it seems now pretty conclusively settled that it is a form of the Chinese Arbor-vitie. Cryptomeria elegans occupies a promi- nent place among those Conifers that change their hue in winter. This forms a rather dense-growing, handsome specimen, the foliage of which is bright green during the summer, but is now of a bronzy crimson hue, tinged, when viewed from certain stand- points, with purple. This Cryptomeria is a very distinct and handsome Conifer, well suited for an isolated specimen, though it is generally more effec- tive when under a dozen feet high than it is when that height is exceeded, as it is often liable to get top-heavy when it grows large. There is a variety of this (nana) which, in all particulars except size, is a counterpart of the type. This Is suitable for small gardens, or indeed any limited spaces, such as the larger arrangements of rockwork or in similar spots. The other species of Cryptomeria, viz , jdponica, does not assume this bronzy tint during winter. The American Arbor-vita; and its different forms become brownish, but this tint is dull, except in the case of a couple of varieties, viz., lutea and Vervseneana. The first of these is, except in colour, a counterpart of the type, the young growth being golden, and in winter becoming bronzed, while at all seasons the lighter tint of the young growth con- trasts strongly with the deeper hue of the more mature foliage. The variety Verva;neana is a denser- habited plant than the last, the branchlets being also more slender. In the summer the entire plant is of a golden yellow hue, which changes during winter to a warm brownish orange. Some of the Retinosporas have their winter tints very marked, and of them the golden forms of R. pisifera and R. plumosa become tinged with a deeper hue. The low, dense-growing R. ericoides, which is so well suited for small gardens, changes to a brownish purple, and in this stage forms a remarkably dis- tinct shrub. This is about the easiest, if not the very easiest, of all Conifers to strike from cuttings. The larger-growing R. dubia is somewhat of the game colour, bat not so bright as R. ericoides. Some specimens of the Red Cedar (Juniperus vlrginiana) become during the winter quite a reddish hue, while others change little, if at all. The principal change that takes place in the Pines is, that the golden form of the Scotch Fir assumes its brightest tints during the winter. H. P. to a glowing scarlet. I notice that it colours most brilliantly on poor soils, and in the neighbourhood of Farnham last week, where the soil is almost a pure sand, I saw some undergrowth of it that looked in the distance like masses of scarlet Pelargoniums. This shrub should be made much of in the garden, believing as I do, that it has few, if any, rivals among Evergreens. For mixing with flowers, espe- cially yellow or white, its foliage is invaluable throughout the year, and in Daffodil time it is espe- cially in demand. As one can buy this Mahonia for a few shillings a hundred, and it will grow almost anywhere, it should be found in every garden large or small. — \V. Picea Pinsapo on the chalk. — I quite agree with"G.'s"remarksinTHEGARDBN, Feb. 4 (p. 105), as to the suitability of this for growing on the chalk. Here (Dorset) on the thinnest of flinty, chalk soils it flourishes exceedingly, as. Indeed, do most of the evergreen trees I have tried, notable excep- tions being the Cryptomerias, Araucaria, Welling- tonia. Silver Fir, and P. nobilis. Thuja gigantea, the Cypresses, the Corsican, Austrian, Nordmann. and Douglas Firs especially grow wonderfully well and fast here, pre-eminently the last, which, for quickness of growth and beauty, is, I think, un- surpassed. I do not, however, believe they will prove so long-lived as they would be in deeper and richer ground. — Rodes. Thunberg's Barberry, of which the writer in the American Florist speaks so highly, is certainly a shrub deserving of more attention than it gets in this country. The bright scarlet berries do not keep on so late here as they apparently do in America, but perhaps this is owing to the wood being more thoroughly ripened there. It would no doubt be very useful, as the writer hints, it grown in pots for Christmas decoration, but it is doubtful if this or any other deciduous Barberry could be grown successfully in a pot, seeing how large and spreading the roots are. It is one of the neatest in growth of all the deciduous Barberries, grows vigorously in the poorest soils, and there is no question about its thorough hardiness. At Kew it is named B. chinensis, B. Thunbergi being the synonym, thus appearing to be a Chinese as well as a Japanese shrub. — W. G. This Berberis (which was alluded to in "American Notes" in The Garden, Febuary 4, p. 90) is stated to be a first-rate shrub, but, as far as I have seen, it does not berry freely in this country. It is a free-growing, much-branched species, which forms a dense bush, with the branches arching over in such a manner as to render the plant devoid of any formality. The leaves are small and roundish, and when partially expanded, form little tufts of the most delicate green all along the branches. Before the leaves are fully expanded the flowers make their appearance, anQ hang from the under sides of the twigs. In colour they are of a sulphur-yellow inside, and a sort of brownish crimson on the exterior. The autumn tint of the foliage which is so conspicuous in America is also in this country very bright. The berries are rather small, oblong in shape, and of a bright sealing-wax- like hue. It is seldom seen much more than a yard high, and yet it is one of those plants that may be depended upon to grow freely without encroaching on its neighbours. It is, indeed, of easy propaga- tion, for if a plant be growing in the ground rather deeply, it is often possible to split it up into several portions, after the manner of many herbaceous subjects. Besides the specific name of Thunbergi it is often met with under that of B. sinensis. — H. P. SHORT NOTES.— TREES AND SHRUBS. The Holly-leaved Slahonia (M. Aquifolium) is at the present time one of the most charming of evergreen shrubs, its foliage being so beautifully tinted with various shades of coppery red, deepen- ing to claret-purple, and in some cases brightening Garrya elliptica. — This is without doubt one of our host shrubs for a wall, the foU>ge being always bright and fresh. Our tree on a south *all is now in full flower; the ex- panded flowers were quite uninjured by the ili" of frost on the night of February 1.— E. Butts, Streatfiam Hill. The Nepaul Barberry is,I am glad to hear, hardy in North Wales, and thrtt IJ feet high specimen at Tan-y-bwk-h must be worth going from London to see when in bloom, ft is not surprising that it is thoroughly hardy in Guernsey, as Mr. Peters says, and I helie've it would be fovnd perfectly hardy in many sheltered places on the south coast. Many would be glad to h^ve such a noble Evergreen in their gar- dens did they know such a one existed. As a wall shrub it can be recommended for any part of the country.— W. G. PittOBporum Tobira. — A large plant of this, which has been wintered in a cool greenhouse, is now flowering freely, and though the blooms can scarcely be called showy, yet their fragrance is a very pleasing feature. This Pittosporum forms an ornamental evergreen shrub, with deep green leavf s of a rather leathery texture, and the white blossoms, which are about an inch in diameter, are arranged in clusters at the points of the shoots. In the case of a good healthy specimen, a supply of bloom is maintained for a considerable period. This Pitto- sporum is a native of Japan, and is hardy in the more favoured spots along the south and west of England, where it makes a first-rate seaside plant. There are several other members of this genus which very much resemble each other, and nearly the whole of them are natives of Australia or New Zealand. They can all be easily propagated and grown, as if planted in ordinary garden soil they grow away freely. Many of the Pittosporums, if planted against a wall, will survive most winters around London. — H. P. PLANTS AT REST. It is doubtful it any plant (bulbs and tubers ex cepted) ever passes into a state of absolute rest" Active growth ceases, of course, for a time, but, as may easily be observed at this period of the year, even many open-air plants are starting into growth. I recently observed a number of Columbines which, at the close of the autumn, showed no signs of growth, but which have now formed a little crown of tender green foliage. Carnations that were layered in the summer and then taken off at the end of October are now pushing out tiny leaves from the axils of the old foliage, and Wallflowers that in November had plenty of room now touch each other. In the cool greenhouse the same signs of almost imperceptible, but steady, progress are manifested in a more pronounced degree. In tie case of soft-wooded things which are coming into bloom, progress is, of course, very apparent; but hard-wooded plants, such as Epacrises, Boronias, Cytisuses, hard- wooded Heaths, seem for a time to stand still in quite a cool temperature. They do not, however, but are slowly preparing for the work they have to do later on. There is a steady flow of sap into the buds that through the dark winter days are surely gaining in substance. A lesson taught by these facts is, that the roots of both hardy and tender plants should retain their functions in an unimpaired condition through the winter. In the case of hardy flowers that are put out in the autumn, the soil ought to be well sweetened, and, if needful, provision be made for carrying off superfluous moisture. It is an easy matter to overdo draining, and light soils generally do not need it, but in those of a cold, tenacious character there can be no doubt that many of the less vigorous herbaceous plants dwindle away through stagnant moisture bringing the roots into a torpid condition. By keeping up the flow of sap into the foliage the plants are better enabled to withstand the vicissitudes of our winters. Let any- one take up a plant that has been standing in soil where the water passes away freely and compare the condition of its roots with one that has been in undrained ground. The one even at this time of year when plant life is seemingly at rest will show white active fibres, whilst the roots of the other look black and inert. The condition of the roots in winter wonderfully affects the growth of the plant in summer. At the same time a great amount of injury can be inflicted by depriving the roots of moisture. I have known hardy plants in frames to remain dry for a week in midwinter under the impression that being at rest it was immaterial whether they were watered for a few days or not. Nothing will more reduce the growing powers of plants of this description than continued drought at the roots at this time of year. Not only is much of the freshness and vitality of the plant Itself lost, hu,t the roots themselves have 156 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. their functions permanently impaired, so that when the time comes for them to start into growth they are deprived of the power of doing so. In this way a portion of the growing time is lost. I once re- ceived a forcible lesson in this matter. A number of pot Strawberries that promised well for a crop were stood on the front stage of a lean-to house. It happened that some repairs which occasioned the temporary removal of the ventilators were being done. The weather was drying and the plants were not looked to so frequently as should have been the case, the consequence being that they were very disappointing when they came into bloom. The contrast between them and others that were in frames and kept moist was most striking. As regards hard-wooded greenhouse plants, there is doubtless much injury inflicted at times by water- ing too sparingly. Keeping plants on the "dry side" does not mean that they are to stand for days together in a dry condition. J. C. B. Societies and Exhibitions. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL. February H. Contrary to what one might have expected, con- sidering the weather and other circumstances, the meeting on Tuesday last was a pleasant surprise, and a reminder of the many interesting gatherings that have often, until recently, taken place in the conservatory at South Kensington. There was a varied show, comprising February hardy flowers. Orchids of many kinds, and fruit, which we must say, for the season of the year, made an excep- tionally brilliant display, the excellent Blenheim Pippin figuring in all the collections, and repre- sented by handsome highly-coloured samples. The Royal Horticultural Society has certainly started the year well, as regards the meetings, as that held in January was by no means poor. As will be seen from the subjoined list,noveltieswerenumerous. First-olass certificates were granted as under : — Ibis Histrio. — This beautiful Iris has been noted on several occasions in The Garden, and was well worth a certificate, as, though devoid of the perfume of the netted Iris (I. reticulata), its flowers are of fine colour, the inner segments deep purple, and the outer ones richly blotched and flaked with purple on a white ground, relieved with a central band of yellow. It is a native of Lebanon, where it is found growing under the renowned Cedars, and though belonging to the same group as I. reticulata, it is distinct from that species, having broader and more lightly-coloured segments. It is the second of this group of February Iris to appear, and a cold frame is essential to preserve the purity of the delicate flowers, though it is quite hardy. From Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt. Lycastb Skinner: Imperator. — The popular Lycaste Skinneri varies considerably in the depth of colouring displayed in the flowers ; but this is one of the finest forms we have seen, and a bold contrast to the pure white variety. It is a strikingly massive flower, larger than that of the type, and characterised by two brilliantly coloured purple crimson petals, the same hue suffusing the well- shaped lip, in which we have here a trace of white near the front ; the sepals are broad, white, with a purplish tint, and form a fine background to the bloom. From Messrs. V. Sander and Co., St. Albans Odontoolossum cbispum pardalinum. — Amongst the f-potted varieties of O. crispum this may be regarded as one of the best, as, although the flowers rather lack the excellent form and shape to be found in first-class varieties, they are ex- quisitely coloured with deep brownish crimson blotches on a white ground, the yellow crest adding to their beauty. The plant shown bore a strong raceme of eleven blooms, and it would require but very few flowering specimens to make the Orchid house gay. From Sir Trevor Lawrence, Burford Lodge, Dorking. Denoroiiiu.m chrysodiscus. — New Uendrobes are appearing, and an acquisition of undoubted merit is this hybrid between D. Ainsworthi and D. Findleyanum, the flowers showing the beauty of both these jiarents. In size the bloom is similar to that of an average D. Ainsworthi, and delightfully, though quietly coloured ; the sepals and petals narrow, delicately tinted with rose-purple at the tips, the other portion white, or nearly so, and intensifying the blotch of lich crimson -brown, surrounded with a golden yellow licg at the base of the lip ; the expanded portion is white, the extreme point magenta. It seems to be very free-flowering and a good grower. From Sir Trevor Lawrence. Dbndrobium Cooksoni — This distinct Dendrobe was shown by Sir Trevor Lawrence and Mr. H. M. Pollett, Fernside, Bickley. It is a form of the old D. nobile, and a likeness is apparent in shape, size, and general appearance of the flowers to those of that species, but the base of the broad petals is richly blotched with deep purplish crimson, this fine colouring appearing on the upper half of the lip, the expanded portion white, with the tip magenta. The sepals are rose-magenta at the apex, and delicately suffused with a similar tint. If it proves as free as the old nobile it will be welcome, but, as shown, it is certainly not so telling. Pteris cbetica NOBiLis. — The great feature of this Fern is its bold, not to say stately, habit, the crested, light- coloured fronds standing up so well, as to render even a comparatively small specimen exceedingly ornamental. It will, we feel sure, prove useful to the market grower, as it is the kind of Fern, by reason of its vigorous constitution, that suits the amateur. From Mr. H. B. May, Upper Edmonton. Ardisia mamillata. — This addition to a large genus, found in India, America, and the islands of the Indian Ocean, hails from Hong- Kong. It is well named mamillata, as the deep green leaves are covered with stiff hairs, which are somewhat unpleasant to the touch. A small plant was shown, and from this one can gather that a large specimen would have a bright ap- pearance, as below the crown of leaves proceed stems bearing at the apex small clusters of deep red Holly-like berries, that are extremely rich against the dark-coloured foliage. It requires stove treatment. From Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea. RHODODENDRONa RUBY AND IMOGENE. — These are two varieties of the new race of greenhouse Rhododendrons, of which a note appeared in The Garden, p. 86, the object, as there stated, being to correct the straggling habit of the Javanese group. The variety Ruby — appropriately named, as its flowers are of a very rich crimson colour, though somewhat small — is the result of a cross between K. jasminiflorum carminatum and R. mul- ticolor Curtisi. In the variety Imogene, a hybrid between R. Teysmanni and R. Taylori, we have a departure in colour, this being of a beautiful clear buff, with the stamens of a pinky tint; the flower is bold, well shaped, and of good substance. Ex- hibited by Jlessrs. Veitch. Chinese Primula, Braid's Sbbdlino. — A single variety, the truss well borne above the leaves. The flowers are individually of average size, good form, and rich colour, this being magenta with a ring of brownish hue in the centre, set off by a yellow eye. From Messrs. H. Cannell, Swanley. Tree CarnationThyllis. — A variety of a pretty and bright colour, of which we want more, as the hues are not inharmoniously mixed, but decided and pure. The ground colour is white, with the edges flaked with bright carmine, and the flower, though not so full and even as many would like, is sweetly scented. Exhibited by Mr. Charles Turner, Slough. Orchids were one of the features of interest, and there were many rare kinds besides those certifi- cated. The group from Sir Trevor Lawrence con- tained many choice gems,, such as Dendrobium amethystoglossum, a chaste flower, pure glistening white, save the matjenta lip. It is as fresh and beautiful a Dendrobe as one can see. The orange- vermilion-coloured Laelia harpophylla was shown ; also a fine form of the extremely variable Cattleya Percivaliana. This was remarkably rich, the sepals and petals warm rose-purple ; the lip brilliantly coloured with gold, overlaid with brown markings in the throat ; the front portion velvety purple, the crinkled margin fading to a lighter shade. Such free-blooming and vividly-coloured forms are in- valuable. A fine healthy specimen of Masdevallia Fraserl with a very showy deep crimson flower was exhibited. Also represented were Odontoglossum maculatum, Masdevallia gargantea, a curiously- pouched kind, the flower large, yellow and brown ; the majus variety of Odontoglossum Oerstedi, Lselia anceps vestalis, a grand form, pure white, except pencillings of purple in the throat of the lip ; Pleuro- thallis Roezli, a curious flower of a deep brownish colour, the nodding raceme carrying several blooms ; and Odontoglossum crispum punctatissimum, a beau- tifully spotted form, a strong raceme having several flowers of medium size, freckled with brown spots on a flesh-coloured ground ; the crest yellow. It is not particularly showy, as the spottings are rather confused, unlike those of the variety certificated. Baron Schioeder also had an interesting group, comprising amongst other things a fine raceme o£ Odontoglossum Stevensi, one of the finest spotted forms of O. crispum, bearing sixty flowers, each of good size and thickly spotted and blotched with light cinnamon-brown on a white ground, the crest orange. Cut flowers of the several forms of Coelo- gyne cristata, including the beautiful Lemoniana, and Lfelia anceps were also shown, and an Odonto- glossum named crispum Xanthotes, distinguished by its massive flowers, more like those of some of the finest and most robust forms of the type; the sepals and petals are of excellent shape and curious colour, there being a trace of yellow on the ivory- white ground, with here and there a blotch of deep orange. Mr. V. M. Major, Cromwell House, Crojdon, sent a spike of Dendrobium Hilli, a similar species to D. speciosum ; theracemes are long, not crowded with flowers, and so have a graceful appearance ; the narrow sepals and petals are creamy white, and give the flower a half-expanded expression. Messrs. F. Sander and Co., of St. Albans, exhibited Odontoglossum maculatum in two varieties, and plants of the noble Lycaste Skinneri alba, the flowers large and in excellent cha- racter. From Mr. G. W. Cummins, gardener to Mr. A. H. Smee, The Grange, Wallington,came Odonto- glossum t&stedi majus, the lovely Sophronitis violacea, Dendrochilum (now called Platyclinis) glumaceum, having a necklace-like raceme of small greenish white, delicately fragrant flowers ; Angrse- oum hyaloides, a curiosity, the mass of snow-white flowers clustering round the base of the plant — it is a diminutive gem ; and Ophrys lutea, a showy Orchid, the lip large, deep yellow, the centre rich brown, almost black, and the sepals and petals green. Messrs. Veitch and Sons, of Chelsea, showed a small collection, consisting of Odontoglossum triumphans, Dendrobium splendidissimum, a cross between D. aureum and nobile; the sepals and petals white, tipped with magenta, the lip blotched with deep crimson at the base, the other portion white; D. euosmum and D. euosmum leucopterum, the last a cross between D. endocharis and nobile, the sepals and petals snow-white; both these were described in The Garden (p. 102). The same firm also exhibited seedling Rhododendrons of the new group, and a curious, but scarcely beautiful, plant allied to the Fritillary named Korolkowia discolor, a native of Turkestan; the foliage recurved, broad, and glaucous, the flower nodding, about 1 inch across, and greenish in colour. From the Royal Gardens, Kew, was sent a small group. A flower of Brownea grandiceps was shown, and by reason of the huge size of the umbel and its brilliant rose colour, it might at a glance be taken for an exceptionally fine truss of Rhododendron. It is a native of South America, and as seen at such places as the Palm house at Kew, it must be a noble adornment. Corydalis Ledebouriana is a hardy plant, dwarf, glaucous, and with the stems tipped with two or three brownish flowers; the leaves are the best part. Lilium Thompsonianum, an Afghan Lily, narrow, glaucous leaves, and small, bell- shaped, very pale lilac flowers, with buff-coloured Feb. 18, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 157 stamens; Tryphia secunda, a botanical curiosity. Ccelogyne lentiginosa and Bletia verecunda, showy. and of a telling magenta shade, were also included. Chinese Peimulas were again conspicuous. Mr. J. James, Woodside, Farnham Royal, was awarded a silver medal for a collection, the plants robust, well bloomed, and each Hower of excellent form, the colours ranging from the bluish tint to pure white. The same exhibitor also had specimens of his exceptionally fine strain of Cinerarias, and a deep crimson-coloured Cyclamen. Mr. Cannell, of Swanley, had several plants of White Perfection Chinese Primula, the colour very pure and attrac- tive. There were also cat blooms of the improved Cineraria craenta, which has larger flowers than those of the type, and of a far richer magenta shade. Besides the Tree Carnation certificated, Mr. Turner showed a variety named Novelty, which, as far as colour goes, it certainly is ; but this is of a burnt slaty hue, utterly distasteful. Mr. Ross, gardener to Sir G. Macleay, Pendell Court, Bletch- ingley, had a beautiful branch ot Acacia vertioillata, wreathed with the catkin-like clusters of pale yellow flowers. Branfelsia (Franciscea) calycina, pale lilac-lavender, and Dombeya (Astrapea) Wallichi were also shown by the same exhibitor. The last- menlioned has broad deep green leaves and a dense drooping umbel of light scarlet flowers. It reaches a height of 30 fee^, and a specimen in full bloom must be a picture ot gorgeous colouring. Haedy flowers, as the spring advances, become more plentiful, and on the present occasion they were chiefly represented by DaflEodils and a few alpine gems, as Saxifraga Burseriana. Mr. T. S. Ware, Hale Farm Nurseries, Tottenham, showed early Daffodils, the majority of the trumpet section, such as Golden Spur (very fine in colour), pallidus pr;ccox, the Tenby Dafiiodi!, princeps, yellow trum- pet, creamy white segments, and N. cyclamineus, be- sides Bletia hyacinthina, an almost hardy Orchid, the flowers rich magenta. We have seen this do well in the open rockery at Ke w. A silver medal was awarded . Messrs. Paul and Son, of Broxbourne, had a choice group, including varieties of Cyclamen Atkinsi, Iris fimbriata (recently noted in The Garden), and Megasea Stracheyi, which forces well, the flowers individually large with a trace of pink, the stigmas red ; it is one of the best of this section of Saxi- fiages. Other good things were Crocus Imperati, Irises Krelagei and Histrio, Saxifraga hypnoides va- riegata, a pretty mossy Saxifrage with variegated leaves: Syricga hyacinthiflora, double, pale lilac, very sweet; and Lilium candidum aureo-margina- tum, the foliage boldly and ttrikingly variegated with orange-yellow and green. Messrs. Barr and Son, of Covent Garden, had a bronze medal for a group of hardy flowers, consisting of Chionodoxas, Narcissus minor, a neat, pretty dwarf Daffodil ; N. moschatus of Haworth, ivory-white, small ; Crocus Imperati, C. Sieberi, deep bluish lilac, the base yellow ; and Hoop-peticoat Daffodils. Flowers of the Christmas Rose were sent by Mr. C. S. Caller, Bunbury ; and the inflorescence of Eulalia Japonica came from Mr. G. F. Wilson, Weybridge. This is exceedingly graceful and feathery, and of value, we should think, for decorations, though far less beautiful than the plumes of the Pampas Grass. FituiT, as previously noted, was quite a feature, Messrs. G. Banyard, Maidstone, staging a collection of 110 dishes of Apples, the whole in excellent preservation considering the season, and noticeable for high colour. Such excellent varieties as Cox's Orange Pippin and Blenheim Orange were shown, and other kinds conspicuous were the brilliantly- coloured Gascoigne's Seedling, Lord Derby.Warner's King, Wellington, and Hormead's rearmain,a good keeper and handsome fruit. A silver medal was awarded, and also to Messrs. T. Rivers and Sons for their display of Apples and home-grown Oranges and Lemons, these, by reason of their striking colours, making a great show. One of the most telling of the Oranges was the St. Michael's. Messrs. J. Cheal and Sons had a good collection of seventy-eight dishes of Apples, for which a bronze medal was accorded ; the Blenheims excellent for colour, as also were Lesspool and Hanwell Souring, in the collection of Mr. S. Ford, The Gardens, Leonardslee, Horsham, there were many fresh and finely developed fruits, and the same exhibitor showed three bunches of Lady Downe's Grape in good condition. In the assortment put up by Mr. C. Ross, Welford Park, Newbury, Sturmer Pippin and Cornish Aromatic were excellent. Mr. G. W. Cummins also contributed Apples. In each case the award of a bronze medal was made. Amongst miscellaneous exhibits were Onions Danesfield and Tennis Ball, a silver-skinned variety from Mr. Dean, Ealing; and Lady Downe's and Mrs. Pince Grapes from Mr. Burnett, The Gardens, Deepdene. There were several seedling Apples and splendid fruits of Calville Blanche from Mr. P. Blair, Trentham, also samples of Wrench's varie- gated Kale from the Chiswick garden of the Koyal Horticultural Society. Annual Meeting. The annual meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society was held on Tuesday afternoon last in the East Crush Room of the Albert Hall, and as it was anticipated a definite programme as to the future workings of the society would be put forth, there was a large attendance of Fellows. Sir Trevor Lawrence, who presided, said in the course of his remarks that in his opinion the society occupied at the present moment a more hopeful position than it did a year ago, and they were no longer trammelled with a connection at South Kensington. They must not forget, however, that in going away they left a great deal behind them. The society had spent on their grounds in round numbers £80,000, for which they would not receive any compensation. The annual report reviewed the past year's work ot the society, and referred to the efforts that have been made to obtain new premises. As our readers are aware, a special committee has been formed to consult with the council and to aid them in carry- ing out the necessary steps. This committee has now prepared a report, which was adopted, and from which we gather that the first floor ot No. Ill, Victoria Street, between the Victoria and St, James's Park Stations, is well suited for the London head-quarters and offices of the society and tor the housing of the Lindley library. These premises are offered at a rental of £120perannum. Asregardsthe arrangements for shows and meetings, the Drill Hall of the London Scottish Rifle Volunteers has been ob- tained, this being situated in St. James's Street, Vic- toria 8treet,nearSt. James's Park Station. The rental is £100 per annum for the use of the hall for twenty meetings during the year, commencing March 25 next. Several members of the council placed their resignation in the hands of the Fellows, so that a radical change might be made if thought proper; but on the motion of the Rev. W. Wilks, seconded by Mr. H. J. Veitch, they were re-elected, with Sir Trevor Lawrence as president. It was resolved that the special committee should be continued, and a vote of thanks was given to Mr. Haughton (the late treasurer). Captain Bax (the late assistant secretary), and to Colonel Trevor Clarke and Major Mason for the services they have rendered to the society. NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMfM SOCIETY. An important meeting of the general committee of this society was held on Monday evening last. In the absence of the president, the chair was taken by Mr. R. Ballantine. Mr. Holmes TL'ad the report of the sub-committee appointed to consider the advisability ot holding a pro- vincial exhibition in November next. From the report it appears that the committee were de- cidedly of opinion that such an exhibition should be held, and letters were written to several of the Chrysanthemum societies in the north of England on the subject to ascertain their views. In each case replies were received expressing approval of the project, and Sheffield was the town selected in which to hold the first of the series of provincial shows intended to take place. The date fixed is November IG and 17, the local society guaranteeing a prize fund of £100 and the National Chrysanthe- m\Lm Society offering medals and cash to the value ot not less than one-third that amount. The looa society will bear all expense and undertake general arrangements, except those on the show day, an equal number of judges to be appointed by each society. One-third of net profits will be received by the National Chrysanthemum Society, and all its mem- bers will be allowed to compete and visit free of charge. The report ot the sub-committee appointed to draw up the scheme ot revision of the official cata- logue was read and approved. Mr. Lewis Castle, Mr. George Gordon, and Mr. Harman Payne were nominated to carry out the details ot the work with a sub-committee of thirty amateurs and gardeners ot known ability in Chrysanthemum culture. The new floral committee was then elected, con- sisting ot Messrs. Cannell, Gibson, Addison, Beavan, Gordon, Wright, Owen, R. Dean, Kendal, Mardlin, Gilbey, Castle, Swift, Bojce, and Stevens. The shows at the Aquarium were fixed to take place as follows: Early flowering varieties, Sept. 12; grand November show, Nov. 7 and 8 ; late flowering varieties, Jan. il and 10, 1889. The dates arranged for the meetings of the floral committee are Sept. 12, Oct. 10 and 21, Nov. 7 and 21, Dec. 5, 1888, and Jan. 0, 1889. The Scottish Horticultural Association having applied tor a donation towards a challenge vase, it was not felt to be within the province of the National Chrysanthemum Society to contribute towards it, as its duty to the affiliated societies and the provincial exhibition would require great efforts. A proposal that a fruit show should be held in conjunction with the late flower exhibition was deferred for another year. A resolution was passed that a silver-gilt medal be instituted, and that affiliated societies should only be entitled to ten medals in all unless by special sanction of the general committee. The new schedule was referred to a special com- mittee to prepare. We have to announce, with regret, the death of Mr. J. H.Walsh ("Stonehenge"), editorot the Field, which occurred on Sunday evening last. Mr. Walsh, who was a Fellow of the Royal College ot Sur- geons, was born in 1810 and educated at a private school. He practised as a medical man in Wor- cestershire until 1852. He settled in London and devoted himself to literature as a profession in 1855. He published works on "Domestic Economy " and "Domestic Medicine," and in 1858 the "Dog in Health and Disease." Some years later he wrote the " Dogs of the British Islands," which passed through several editions, and in 1882 he produced the first volume of the "Modern Sportsman's Gun and Rille," the second following in 1884. He was perhaps best known as the author of "British Rural Sports," ot which no fewer than fifteen editions have been issued. A man of much knowledge of country life, he was peculiarly fitted for the post he held in the firm direction ot the greatest journal de- voted to rural affairs— the J-'/eW, ot which he was the able editor for over thirty years. The death ot Mr. John Smith, at one time curator of the Royal Gardens, Kew, occurred last Sunday. Among the many works by which he will be remembered, one ot the most important was " Historia Filicum." Notwithstanding that he was attiicted with almost total blindness, he has during the past few years written several works with the aid of an amanuensis. He had attained the ripe age of ninety years. Names of plants. — JuveniK. — 1, Masdevallia Houtteana; 2, M. xauthina ; 3, Dendrobium longi- cornu. J. M. — Cattleja Triana', very good form, but not worthy of a varietal name. J. McLeoiL — Neottopteris australasica, quite distinct from Nidus. F. M. — 1, Ausellia africana; 2, Lycaate lanipes. J. H. C. — Dendrobium aureum. /. R. Chaplin. — A form of Odontoglossum triumplians ; it is cer- tainly uot (_). Alexandra). — 2\ W. — An excellent variety of Cymbidiurn eburneum ; it is scarcely spotted enough to merit special distinction ; the other is Cypripedium insigne Maulei. Wames of fruit. — Lieut-Col. Ale.tander. — 1, 'I'orksMre Greening; 2, Rymer; 3, not recognised, much bruised ; 4, Northern Greening; 5, Fearn's Pippin, probably. 158 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 18, 1888. WOODS & FORESTS. THE UMBRELLA PINE. (SCLADOPITYS VEETICILLATA.) What a contrast there is between a large, well- furnished plant of the Umbrella Pine and an eqtially magnificent specimen of the Hemlock Spruce (Abies canadensis), the symmetrical and somewhat stiff habit of the one being so totally different from the easy outline and gracefully drooping foliage of the other. This was never more forcibly brought home to my mind than shortly since, when in a rather secluded Irish demesne the finest example— barring, perhaps, that of Messrs. Veitch, which I saw at the Edinburgh Forestry Exhibition— of this rare, inte- resting, and withal beautiful tree that I have ever seen, was pointed out by the owner with no small amount of pride and satisfaction at being the fortu- nate possessor of so unique a specimen of this rare and little-known Japanese Conifer. The tree to which I refer was one of great beauty, with bright, healthy well-developed foliage, and this down to within a few inches of the ground ; while the stem was tall and straight, save a short distance at the top, the result of an accident which occurred fully fiiteen years ago, and from which it had happily recovered so far as general health is concerned, but marred by the slightly bent and knotty leading shoots. It is growing in decomposed vegetable matter overlying a peaty soil, and alongside some of as fine specimens of the Hemlock Spruce and Cephalotaxus as are to be found in this country. On all sides this pinetum, of only the choicest Conifers, is sheltered by high-growing Laurels, Larches of giant proportions, and far-spreading Horse Chestnuts, which I have nowhere seen equalled in size. The coniferous trees, including the Sciadopitys, were planted in a recess formed close to the main drive by cutting back a large number of the Laurels and other trees, and then thoroughly preparing the ground, which extended to several acres and gave ample room for the few choice coni- ferous and other subjects with which it was planted. This system of grouping the choicer coniferous trees has been generally adopted over the estate, and it is a plan well worthy of com- mendation, not only for the welfare of semi hardy and unproved trees, but for the pleasant surprise it gives the visitor when strolling through a dense woodland of suddenly coming upon a tract of cleared ground richly planted with the choicer Coniferie. In such a place as I have just described grows the Umbrella Pine, and its healthy appearance and large size clearly point out that it is quite at home. At the time of planting, I was informed by the forester that a large pit was dug out, and the roughish boggy soil which occurred at less than a couple of feet from the surface was mixed with about an equal quantity of rich loam from an adjoining field, and allowed to lie freely exposed to the atmosphere for several months before the trees were planted. After planting, which took place in early spring, each tree was surrounded by a neat rabbit-proof fence of '.i feet in height, and of sufficient distance from the tree to preclude the possibility of the outer branches coming in contact with it for several years at least. Thus was planted fully twenty years ago (the exact date I am unfortunately unable to state, owing to the label which was attached when the 'tree was planted having been removed) what is now, or at least was when I saw it, an unusually rich-foliaged and handsome speci- men of the Umbrella Pine. Planters, generally speaking, have been some- what tardy in procuring specimens of this tree, and that for two reasons : its supposed inability to with- stand a severe English winter, and the high price at which a fair-sized plant can be obtained. For- tunately, the first supposition has, after a fair and unprejudiced trial, been found to be without foundation, as some of the finest plants I know of this particular Conifer are growing in the Northern Scottish counties, and these, in point of health, appearance, and rapidity of growth, are little behind those in the warmer parts of the south of England. As to the price at which a plant of sufficient size for planting permanently can be procured, I am by no means surprised, as the Sciadopitys is, perhaps, our rarest Conifer, and its past history remains a secret, only one habitat, and that very limited in extent, having been recorded. In North Wales, at Hafodunos, the beautifully situated estate of Mr. Sandbach, is the healthiest and best furnished English specimen that I have seen, and which at the time of my visit in November last had several both male and female cones grow- ing upon it, but this, it appears, was nothing un- usual, for the worthy owner told me that it had borne these for several years in succession. Now, when we consider that in this instance the tree was thus growing most luxuriantly at between 800 feet and 900 feet altitude amongst the Welsh hills, its hardihood in this country need not be questioned. A very fine specimen in the grounds at Fenny Hill, Bagehot, was, when measured in 1S84, 8 feet in height, with a branch spread of fully G feet ; while at Balaamor, in the Isle of Man, there is another fine young tree growing in light sandy peat. At Castle Kennedy, as well as various other places in Scotland, robust, though slow-growing specimens may be seen, all of which clearly point out that the Sciadopitys is well suited for planting in perhaps any portion of the British Isles. That it is well worthy of a place in every collec- tion of trees need hardly be mentioned, not at least to those who have seen a fair-sized plant in rude health, for the deep, glossy green leaves of the best substance, and spread out like the rays of an umbrella, as well as decidedly pleasing contour of the whole plant render the Sciadopitys one of the most distinct and peculiar Conifers that can be grown in this country. In the speci- mens now before me the leaves are thick and leathery, fully 2 inches long, and with a golden marked furrow on the under sides, while the cone, about Ji. inches long, is composed of large scales, and resembles very markedly that of the Swiss Stone Pine (Pinus Cembra). It may perhaps be well to state that both the foliage and cone here described were produced in this country, and are probably much smaller than those grown in the tree's native home. In this country the growth of the Umbrella Pine is usually slow, but this is, to a great extent, counter- balanced by the strong, though short shoots, an- nually formed, and which become well ripened off before winter sets in, thus precluding the possi- bility of the tree suffering from untimely frosts or cold, cutting, easterly winds. When planting the Umbrella Pine in its permanent position, thorough preparation of the ground must be attended to, and the soil it would seem to do best in may be described as a rich, sandy peat of considerable depth, and neither too dry nor moist, the latter preferable. If I remember rightly, the soil at the Coombe Wood Nursery is peat of a sandy texture, as is also that in which the Isle of Man and Irish specimens are growing, so that it may not be wrong to recom- mend this particular class as being best suited for the healthy development of the Umbrella Pine in this country. A. D. Webster. Planting for shelter. — Are not too many of even our best agricultural districts far too much denuded of woods and plantations both from a picturesque and a profitable point of view? I fancy that when corn-growing was a very profitable busi ness, woods and hedgerows were grubbed up, and every tree that shaded a bit of corn land was de stroyed, the result being that in many districts you could walk several miles through agricultural dis- tricts and not find wood enough to make a load of fagots. Now, the question is : Is not such a lack of wood a loss instead of a benefit ? In the first place, hedgerows, trees, and plantations break the monotony of a flat and otherwise uninteresting district ; they soften the wind, modify and raise the temperature of the district, warmth being a very important factor to the well-being of all kinds of stock; while, on the other hand, grain crops are injured by an unbroken frosty wind which sweeps over a district denuded of trees and plantations. The annual fall of the leaf, too, is a source of en- richment to the earth. These plantations might consist of evergreen, coniferous, deciduous or fruit-bearing trees, according to the wishes and requirements of the district or planter. This matter was brought forcibly to my mind on February 1, when I walked for about seven miles through a treeless, farming district, with a frosty north-east wind blowing in my face, and not a plantation or hedgerow to afford any shelter. On the last half- mile of my journey, and still meeting the wind, were some mixed plantations, and I felt very thankful to the planter for the shelter from the icy wind which they afforded. I have no doubt but that such wind- breaks would be taken advantage of by a flock of sheep or herd of cattle, and benefit both the stock and their owners. — E. M. Y. The Spruce and Pine in Norway.— The manner in which the Spruce and Pine forests of Norway are being exterminated- is becoming fo serious, that the government is called upon to put a stop, by legislation, to the deforestation of the country. At present there is no law to prevent tl e purchaser of a forest from felling everything, even down to the tiniest saplings. It is urged by forett oiEcials that trees under a certain diameter should not be permitted to be cut, and that the branches of the trees should not be left in the forest (as is now nearly always done), because they stifle the growth of the young trees. Apart from the wanton exhaustion of this commercial wealth, it is main- tained that wholesale felling has the effect of changing the climate in the forest localities. — Nature. Pinus contorta. — This, one of the most distinct and beautiful of the medium-sized Pines, is par- ticularly suitable for planting in limited areas. The foliage is short, of a bright green colour, and arranged thickly on the branches. It belongs to a section of the genus, having its leaves in pairs, which includes nearly the whole of the European as well as some American and Japanese kinds. The specific name is derived from the peculiarly con- torted branches, which twist in such a manner that the diameter of their spread is less than that of most other kinds. When from 15 feet to 20 feet high, this tree forms a dense pyramidal specimen of a very beautiful shade of green. This tree is a native of the western part of North America, and appears to be perfectly hardy in Eogland. Even in a small state it bears cones freely, these being about the size of those of the Scotch Fu:.— W. T. Trees and shrubs for \tet ground. — I know of nothing more profitable to grow, or that will succeed better in wet land than the Alder. When once the plants become established, it is astonishing how quickly after being cut down they start again and yield fine poles, that is, if protected from the attacks of game, such as bares and rabbits, which are fond of nibbling the young shoots as they start into growth. Next to Alders in point of profit and suitability for wet lands stands the Ash,thewood of which always meets with a quick and ready sale. Elm, too, does well where it can get plenty of mois- ture at the roots, and it is only when so treated that it keeps healthy for any length of time, or reaches a good size; when sound and large, Elm trees are valuable. By planting the Ash and the Elm at wide intervals, the Alder will be found to do well between them, and come in as a sort of under- growth, an arrangement by which there would not be many years to wait before the ground would yield some return. Evergreen Oaks interspersed here and there, and some of the Coniferss, such as the Austrian Pine, Pinus Laricio, and Abies Doug- lasi, would also have a good effect, but if the land be very wet, it may be necessary to plant these on raised mounds. — D. Babbits destroying' trefB— In the gardens here, Laburnums if not protected would be very much damaged every year by hares and rabbits In the extensive plantationp, open to the surrounding country, wo have every winter to protect a great number of trees and Fhrubs, and our plan is to tic dry Rufches round the lowtr portion of the stem, so that no part of the bark can be seen. In the spring the cover- ing of Rushes has to be removed. If the above precautions were not taken, many of the better deciduous trees and shrubs could not be planted. -Loris Kropatsch, Laxtnburg. THE GARDEN. 159 No. 849. SATURDAY, Feb. 25, 1888. Vol. XXXIII. " This U an Art Which does mend Nature : change it rather ; The Art itself is Natuke." —Shalcespeare. but TOO MANY VARIETIES OF PEACHES. When the liighly interesting Apple and Pear question has been settled to the editor's satis- faction, I am earnestly hoping he will take in hand the Peach and Nectarine. In this case the most difficult work would consist in the correction of names, as it is more than pro- bable there is no family of fruit trees the varieties of which are so little known as Peaches and Nectarines. The next point, the separation of the inferior or second rate from the good varieties, wUl be less diffi- cult than it would have been twenty or thirty years ago. When orchard houses were in their infancy, the sorts grown on open walls could be counted on the fingers, and half a dozen varieties formed the stock in nine-tenths of the forcing houses throughout the kingdom. At that time, owing to the uncertainty of our climate, the old metlmd of hard pruning and the neglect of the roots, Peach growers thought themselves fairly fortunate if they obtained a full crop of fruit every third year. At the present time the man who lifts and relays the roots biennial]}-, who trains on the extension principle, and never allows insects to check his first growths, is as certain of a full crop every season as he is of Apples and bu.sli fruits, and more so than he is of choice Pears. The orchard house has become a monster institution, while Peaches of every kind, from the early Clingstone down to the latest Admirable, are now ripened on open walls. An undertaking of this kind will take up a great deal of time, but lackiug a living or working Royal Horticultural Society, the labour must fall upon private enterprise. In order to facilitate and simplify this, eveiy head gardener could teach his young beginners to examine for themselves the trees under their charge, and if, by the foliage and flowers, they do not find out the correct names, in nine cases out of ten they will be able to detect false nomenclature. A lecture extend- ing over half an hour in an orchard house, or in front of a well-furnished Peach wall, when the trees are iu flower in March, would show that they are divided into two classes by their flowers, which may be large and handsome, or small and insignilicant. A repetition at any time after the foliage is fully developed would divide them into three classes by their leaves, viz. : — 1. Those serrated on the edge without glands. 2. Those crenated with round glands. 3. Those crenated with kidney-shaped glands. Still later in the season Peaches and Nectarines may, of course, be again divided into two classes — the first and best being melting or freestone, the second and most inferior, adhesive or cling- stone. Assuming that a dozen trees under distinct names have beeu bought in from a nurseryman who is dependent upon private gardeners for his supply of buds, and the amateur wishes to prove to his own satisfaction that the nomen- clature is correct, he divides a page of his fruit tree book into four columns ; in the first he enters the numbers, in the second the size of the flowers when they open, in the third the formation of the leaves, in the fourth the assumed name, thus : — Floivers. Leaves, Xame. No. 1 fmall glandless Royal George. „ 2 small round glands Royal George. „ 3 large round glands A Bee. Numbers 1 and 3 at the end of the iirst fruiting season he finds correct ; but No. 2, supposed to be a dujjlicate of the first, is wrong, as it has round glands ; whereas the true Georges have no glands at all. "What is it?" is the next question. Having round glands, it may be a Mignonne. So far good ; but when he looks into the second column, the note says : "flowers small,' and this never-failing guide shows that one of the Galandes must have been substituted, as all the Mignonnes have large flowers. By making note of flowers, leaves, and fruit, any- one having a good work on Peaches to refer to may generally name a variety — certainly he can detect the nurseryman's mistakes ; but until this question is well handled and Peach growers begin to go iuto this matter for themselves, the trade will obtain stock under false names, and our nomenclature will remain in a state of con- fusion. W. C. fruit of Beurre l\ance that is worth eating. Pears that are only good iu a good year are best rooted out. The good year never comes to some. What is No. 7 to be ■! Our list is not among the laws that change not. "We .shall at any time exclude a variety, but only in favour of a better kind. W. E. Stove and Greenhouse. STANDARD PEARS FOR BRITAIN. Having made Mr. George Bunyard responsible for the sixth standard Pear, he declares for Emile d'Heyst, and until we have found a better substitate, there it must stay. The fact that it does well in Scotland is greatly in its favour. We do not make a point of sequence. The list now stands thus : — 1. JARGONELLE. 2. MARIE LOUISE. 3. DOYENNE DU COMICE. 4. WINTER NELIS. 5. JOSEPHINE DE MALINES. 6. EMILE D'HEYST. We dissent wholly from our friends who say that a large number of varieties is necessary. This is the root of the evil. We have now a great number of kinds, and no r/ood fruit in market or private garden — no fruit after the fulness of autumn. Even our markets are supplied in autumn from France. We hold, that with a dozen Pears understood and well grown, we may look for- ward to well-supplied markets and a good store of Pears in the private garden. But the gardener must know his Pears by heart and grow each as it should be. What is not worth knowing is not worth growing. Moving about, a stranger among a museum of trees, and sending a fruit now and then to be named is not tlie true way. The delicious Winter Nelis, for example, should not be seen only as a single tree. A fruit of sucli refined and constant quality should be grown on different exposures, so as to secure a succes- sion or make more sure of a crop. The fact that some of our fruit-growing reailers have stated in The Garden that the fruit from stan- dard trees has often a better flavour than that from wall trees ought to influence us. Better such a Pear well treated than a dozen ripen- ing at the same season in the present hap- hazard way. The nurserymen and gardeners of England would do well to grub up and burn nine out of ten of the Pears they now have. We have been waiting ten years for T. BAINE.S. SCREW PINES. Pandanads, or Screw Pines, are so named from the screw-like arrangement of the leaves round the stems. Some of the species attain the dimensions of small trees more or less branched, and they all come from hot countries, the greater portion being indigenous to the islands of the Indian Archipelago. Though, as already aid, some of the species grow to a large size, there are several that are not too large for cul- tivation in an ordinary plant stove, even when big enough to show their true character. Seve- ral of the smaller-growing species have been much used lately in a small state for table de- coration and for standing about living rooms, where they do very well during the summer months, when the heat is sufficient to keep them in good condition. Early in spring is a good time to propagate Pandanads. After the plants have attained a moderate size they usually produce suckers freely at the base and up the stems. The suckers furnish material for propagation, and they strike readily when slipped ofl' or severed with a knife so as to secure the firm woody por- tion at the base. Hemove the lower leaves and put the suckers singly in pots large enough to hold them. Drain the pots well and fill them with a mixture of half loam and sand, giving no more water than is necessary to keep the soil sliglitly moist until roots are formed, as pre- vious to this if much water is used it will cause decay. If the suckers can have a bottom heat of 80° or 85° they will more quickly become established. In the case of the variegated kinds, P. javanicus variegatus and P. Veitchi, it is necessary to be careful in selecting for propa- gation suckers that have a suflicient amount of white in their leaves, as if the green-leaved suckers that are often produced are struck, they generally remain deficient in colour when the plants get larger. It is better not to confine the suckers in any way whilst they are striking. When fairly rooted put them close to the glass. It is necessary to keep these Pandanads in all their stages where they will receive an abund- ance of light, as without this the leaves get drawn and weak. As the days lengthen give more heat ; 70° in the night, with 10° or 15° more by day, will not be too much. When the roots begin to move freely, give more water, and towards mid- summer the plants should have larger pots, varying the size according to the character of the species. Little shade is required by the green-leaved kinds further than may be found necessary to keep the leaves from getting scorched. The variegated sorts need shading when the weather is bright, as if fully exposed to the sun the leaves get discoloured. Keep the atmosphere of the house moderately moist, and syringe overhead freely once a day, being careful that the water gets to the under sides of the leaves as well as the upper surface, or the plants are likely to become affected with rtd spider. As much air as suits the majority of warm st;ove subjects will suffice for all the species of Pandanus during summer, In au- 160 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. tumn it may be given more freely, and shading should be discontinued. A night temperature of 60° or 65° is about the right heat to maintain in winter, during which time the soil must be kept drier, especially if the temperature is any- thing below the lowest point above-named. Though a'l the species are free rooters and in no way delicate, still the soil must not be too wet in the resting season. Early in spring give larger pots, varying the size according to the purposes for which the plants are required. For table or room decoration, G-inch or 7-inch pots are large enough, as much may be done to assist the plants by giving manure water during the summer. If medium or large-sized specimens are wanted, the plants may have pots 2 inches or 3 inches larger than those they have hitherto occupied. By autumn those that are required for use in a small state will be large enough, but they should not be moved out of heat until the ensuing spring after the weather has got warm, and, as in all cases with stove plants that are subjected to a lower temperature than is good for them, they should be kept away from open windows or anywhere where they wUl be exposed to a draught. Less water should also be given to them. The plants that are to be grown on to specimen size should have additional pot room as the roots seem to need it. From the time the suckers receive their first shift up to the plants attaining full size, the soil should consist of good mellow loam, with as much sand mixed with it as will keep it sweet and porous. The pots must likewise be well drained, for though these Pandanads are free growers, their roots are of a fleshy nature, such as will not bear any stagnant moisture about them. Amongst the smaller-growing species that are best adapted for table decoration, the following may be named : — P. GEAiiiNlFOLius. — A slender-leaved, elegant- habited kiad with dark green, arched leaves. P. A'ANDEKMBEBSCHi.— One of the best of the green-leaved species. In a young state it is par- ticularly handsome. P. JAVANICUS VARIEGATUS and P. A'eitchi are both beautiful variegated sorts, the greater portion of the leaf -surface being creamy white. P. ELEGANTISSIMUS, P. KEFLEXUS, and P. UTILIS are the best of the larger growers adapted for pot culture. and rises under the Influence of sunlight to 80°, or even higher. The soil is watered daily, but no saucers are used to hold water about the bottom of the pans. If too many flower-buds appear, they are reduced, a big display of flowers being produced at the expense of the pitchers. When growth is completed more air is given, but no shading is ever used. Under this treatment we have grown good specimen plants of S. Drummondi, S. flava, S. vario- laris, S. ornata, S. purpurea, S. psittacina, S. Ste- vensj, S. Patersoni, and S. Moorei. Darlingtonia californica thrives when grown with and treated the same as the Sarracenias. — W. W. Sarracenias. — We have just shaken out all our Sarracenias, re-potted them in fresh soil, and re- moved them into warmer and moister quarters. After some years' experience in the cultivation of a collection of the best Sarracenias, I am convinced that early potting, a thorough overhauling, and almost stove treatment during the growing season result in a crop of good, v,'eli-coloured pitchers. As some cultivators fail with Sarracenias, possibly the details of our treatment may be of some help. The plants are grown in pans about half as deep as they are wide, and these are a quarter filled with drainage. For soil, lumps of peat about the size of hens' eggs, some Sphagnum, and pieces of charcoal, with a sprinkling of coarse sand, are mixed to- gether. The plants are shaken free from all old soil, and the base of the rhizome, which is usually dead, is cut away. If the rhizome has branched into several strong leads, it should be divided ; if Into weak leads, some of them should be cut away. All old, worn-out leaves and pitchers may be re- moved, but at least one leaf should be left on the end of each lead. In polling, the rhizomes are just buried beneath the surface of the soil, and the roots are spread out as near the surface as possible ; tnfts of Moss are placed alternately with the lumps of peat on the surface, partly to give a neat appear- ance, and partly becau.-e the Moss holds the water longer than soil would, and this is good for the new roots. The plants are then placed in a house where the temperature at night does not fall below iKi", CINERARIAS. The improvement in the flowers of Cinerarias has been very marked during the last twenty-five years, as they are now much larger, the petals broader, and the form more symmetrical. WhOe there has been this improvement in form, it is somewhat remarkable that there has not been any new colours of a definite character added. This is the more noteworthy because in nearly every other florist flower great advances have been made in this direction. With respect to the increase in the size of the flowers, I do not find it to be any gain. What is gained in size is lost in symmetry, and added to this is a loose and ungainly 'plant that no amount of good cultivation seems to improve. I am alluding to the Continental strains of this flower which are sent to this country as supe- rior to any other strain. For three years in suc- cession I grew a strain obtained in this way, and although plenty of the plants produced flowers .3^ inches and more across, the petals were so loosely arranged that it was difficult to find a well-shaped flower, and besides this there was a great want of variety in colour. All points considered, what is known as the C'ovent Garden strain is the most useful to grow for conservatory decoration. The plants are of good habit and they throw up large heads of perfectly formed flowers. The variety of colours is also great, and a large and well-proportioned head of flowers can be obtained from a rather small plant. The average English strain produces much larger flowers than the Covent Garden, but in the. hands of a good many cultivators the plants are made through rich feeding to produce such large leaves that the effect of a nice head of flowers is spoilt owing to the larger proportion of foliage. There is another part of the management of the present time which tells against the possibility of securing shapely plants. I allude to the too general practice of getting the plants in flower early in the season, which necessitates the stock being brought on in a closer and warmer temperature than is good for them. The middle of March to the middle of April is the season when the plants should be at their best. In former times the bulk of the plants did not go out of flower until it was quite safe to turn them out of doors in some sheltered corner to ripen their seed, but the practice of modern cultivators has altered a good deal in regard to the time the plants are had in bloom, and this has a tendency to lower the merits of the flowers. Next to this, as I have incidentally remarked, rich feeding is decidedly injurious, especially during the early stages of growth. Stimulants of any kind, until the plants have been put into the pots in which they are to flower, should not be given. As a matter of fact, these pots ought to be full of roots and the flower-stem rising before any liquid is given. As regards soil, there is nothing better for them than three parts good mellow loam, one part leaf-soil, and a good sprinkle of coarse sand. In a compost like this the plants will produce good heads of flowers if they are not subjected to more heat than is good for them. The cold pit is the proper place for Cinerarias, while frost can be kept from them by the use of mats, as they like to be near the glass and on a bed of coal ashes. As they are very tender they should be taken to a heated structure when there is danger of severe frost, but not other- wise. It is hardly necessary to grow named varieties now that such excellent strains arc (o be hail, as if the seed is obtained from a good source, varieties equal to the named ones may be had. In raising a stock of plants from seed there is a tendency at the present time to sow too early when large plants with good heads of flowers are re- quired. If a few are required to flower early, the seed may be sown about the middle of May, but plants that are required to bloom at their proper season should be obtained from seed sown a month later. J. C. C. Calliandra Tweedei might be called the Bra- zilian Bottle-brush tree, as it so much resembles the Callistemons, or Australian Bottle-brush. It is now one of the chief objects of interest in the Palm house at Kew, where there is a fine bush of it in flower. Its leaves are like those of Mimosa or Acacia, and are extremely elegant. The showiest parts of the flowers are the crimson stamens, borne in globular tassels. The tender green of the ferny foliage and the crimson flowers make it a very beautiful shrub. Though as a rule only grown in botanic gardens, it deserves the attention of gar- deners at large. It requires a stove, and is usually seen in flower when about 2 feet high. — W. G. Hechtea argentea. — Very little is seenof anyof the Hechteas, and this one, though the best of about the six species that comprise the genus, is known perhaps least of all. It is a Bromeliaceous plant, as can be seen at a glance, and bears the greatest likeness to H. Ghiesbreghti, but is quite distinct. The leaves are extremely ornamental, not to say beautiful, as they are densely encrusted with silvery scales that give them a curious frosted look, such as we obtain in few other plants. I have never seen the flowers, but they are described in Nicholson's " Dictionary of Gardening " as white, small, in glo- bose clusters. It possibly blooms at very long intervals, but perhaps some of the readers of The Garden could give me information upon this point. It is very certain that such a distinct Hechtea should be seen in other places besides Kew Gardens and botanical collections; unfortunately, however, the Bromeliaceous family is in disfavour. It suc- ceeds well in a warm, dry atmosphere, such as succulents delight in, but a greenhouse would most likely suit it, and there is often a little variety wanted here. — X. Geenera macrantha. — This Gesnera forms a very conspicuous feature in the stove at the present time, by reason of its bright - coloured flowers. It forms rather a stout stem, clothed with bright green leaves, and terminated by a cluster of tubular-shaped blossoms about 3 inches in length, and of a rich vermilion colour. The leaves, stems, and blossoms are thickly covered with hairs. It is a plant very easily culti- vated, as some time after flowering the stems die down and the tubers remain dormant till the autumn, when they again start into growth, and, as a rule, flower when from S inches to 1 foot high. As the principal growth is made during the winter months, the plants need a light position at that sea- son. G. oinnabarina is another beautiful species that may be had in bloom from the end of autumn till the early spring. This is a larger-growing kind than G. macrantha, and is, from a foliage point of view, more attractive. It also starts earlier into growth, as the tubers begin to grow before mid- summer, when they must be potted, and under favour- able conditions will form fine specimens by autumn. One or two things to bear in mind are : The foliage must be protected from the direct rays of the sun; thorough drainage is absolutely necessary ; and the plants must not suffer from want of water at the roots, but none luust be spilt on the leaves. By starting these and many others of the beautiful garden varieties of Gesnera at different times, their flowering season may be spread over a much longer period than would be the case if they were all sub- jected to exactly the same treatment. — H. V. Brownea giandiceps. — This, one of the noblest of tropical flowering trees, is at the present time the chief feature in the great Palm house at Kew, where a fine specimen some 20 feet high is in flower. It is to be regretted that the large size to which these beautiful Browncas attain before they produce Feb, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 161 flowers precludes them from all except the largest conservatories, though even in a small state they are, on account of their handsome pinnate foliage, ex- tremely ornamental, and being evergreen they ansv?er the same purpose as Palms and the usual fine-foliaged stove plants. B. grandiceps is the finest of all the cultivated Browneas. It bears its flowers in a huge globular head like a Rhododendron. The blossoms are very showy, being of a peculiar shade of orange-red, or, as some would describe it, a salmon-pink, while the numerous gold-tipped pro- truding stamens add to the beauty of the cluster. The leaves are 2 feet and upwards in length, and consist of from ten to twelve pairs of leaflets. The new leaves are usually produced in a dense mass of several together, and these are extremely beautiful, being, when first unfolded, of a delicate tinge of bronzy green ; in fact, the new leaves are as re- markable as the flower clusters. All the Browneas are South American, and this particular one comes from Caraccas, where it is said to be quite a forest tree GO feet or more high. B. coocinea and Ariza (called also princeps) are also represented by large specimens at Kew, the last named, like grandiceps, having very handsome foliage. — G. The white ladian Azalea. — Your beautiful engraving in The Garden February is (p. 139), of the above in Mr. Dickins' wood at Coolhurst, Sussex, reminds me of some similar specimens I saw a few years ago in the Earl of Wicklow's garden, at Shelton Abbey, where they luxuriate araongst other shrubs on the outlying portions of the lawn and pleasure grounds. Seeing that this Azalea is so lovely as a hardy shrub in England and Ireland when well planted in suitable and sheltered places, it seems a wonder that it should have been compara- tively neglected as an open-air shrub, while so much has been nude of the Rhododendron. I suppose the gorgeous beauty of the Azaleas in pots at our spring exhibitions has rather drawn our thoughts away from their beauties as hardy subjects. At any rate here is an opening for a new departure if some of our trade growers of Azaleas would raise hardy varieties suitable for the open air. So far as beauty goes, nothing can exceed the snowdrift-like loveliness of the old white A. indica, but we might obtain hardier varieties of the white just as larger, single, and semi-double white forms have already been secured. Shelton Abbey is, as you know, in County Wioklow, rather low-lying, but very sheltered. The Sweet Bays (Laurus nobilis) there are very noble, finer than any I have seen elsewhere, and there are other fioe trees and shrubs, but nothing in the way of floweriog shrubs surpassed the white I ndian Azaleas. — F. W. Burbidgb. SHORT NOTES.— STOVE AND GREENHOUSE. Spot on Pelargoniums.— In The G.^rhen of Feb. 11 (p. 117) "11. D." speaks of spot on his Pelar- goniums, and says : " The practice of placing plants in the open after tliey are cut down also encourages spot.' * This is not my experience. I used to have spot every year, but was told by a judge at a flower show not to use leaf-mould with Pelargoiums, as it gave them spot. I never used it since, and consequently never had any more spot. — T. W. Bhowning. Freesias should be grown by every gardener who requires pxwe white fragrant flowers in winter and early spring. Tliey have a chastenes and sbeauty that rival even those of the popular Papar-white Naroiss. luthe Epsom Nursery seedlings of F. refracta alba are blooming, the individual flowers being, on the average, larger than those of the type and more massive. Plants raised from seed bloom in tvvo years, and from tirst to last give very little trouble as regards culture ; only a small degree of tire-heat is necessary. Tuberous Begonias. — All those who wish to have a display of these plants during the coming season should be up and doing. On a recent visit ti llr. Laing's nursery they were busy pricking oat seedlings, which are traust'erred from the seed pans as soon as they can be seen, small pointed sticks being used for the purpose. The great secret with these pi. mts seems to he to keep them contiuually moving. .Something like 100,000 have already been thus transplanted, and the quantity yet in 'the seed-pans appears to be iu- nunierahle. 1 also observed tli:it llu.^ntities of tubers of the best kinds had already been potted, and were making nice sturdy plants, from amongst which some striking novelties are expected.— W. H. G. Thunbergia Harris!. — This cannot be too highly recommended as a stove climber, its foliage being rich deep green, and its large flowers bright purplish blue on the limb, with a pale yellowish white throat. This is a colour by no means common. I do not re- member to have seen this plant brought out as an ex- hibition subject, but, judging from the large flowers produced on plants in 3-incii pots which I recently noted in Mr. Laiug's nursery at Forest Hill, it is Hkely to be as useful and showy as the Allaraandas. A coloured plate of it was given in The Garden, Sep- tember 2.5, 1886, under the name of T. laurifolia. — W. H. G. Fuchsia splendens. — This Fuchsia is widely removed from the ordinary garden varieties, yet it is very pretty, and may be had in bloom during the winter and early spring months. It is a free- growing kind with heart-shaped leaves and peculiar flowers, the tube of which is bright crimson tipped with green. To have this variety in bloom at this time of the year it must have the temperature of an intermediate house. Some of the species of Fuchsia merit more extended cultivation, for while we are greatly overdone with so-called garden varieties, many of which diif er from each other only in name, there are some at least equally as beautiful and quite as distinct that have almost dropped out of cultivation. In proof of which I may mention F. fulgens and corymbiflora, two large bold-growing species ; F. microphylla and thym;cfolia, which in leaf and flower are quite miniature kinds ; F, gra- cilis, serratifolia, and pendulseflora. To these must be added the neat little F. triphylla, the blooms of which are freely borne and of a distinct orange- scarlet hue. — H. P. Impatiens Hawkeri. — I have seen this beau- tiful Balsam in many gardens during the past season, but I have never seen such fine specimens as those I recently noticed in one of the cool stoves at Burford Lodge, Dorking. The plants are several feet across, and each is upon a single stem, which, however, appears to have been stopped when only a few inches high, causing it to break. The lateral growths have also been repeatedly stopped, so that at the present time the plants are some 2 feet or S feet high, symmetrical without training, well furnished with rich deep green foliage and a mass of large, flat, dazzling flowers, which are of a rich deep carmine suffused with a tinge of vio- let or blue; the eye small and white. In spite of what is sometimes said, this plant is equally as free- flowering as its near ally, I. Sultani ; whilst its flowers are more than double the size of those of that kind, thicker in texture, and very much richer in col- our.' This is, I believe, one of Mr. Bull's introduc- tions from the South Sea Islands, and is un- doubtedly the finest winter-flowering soft-wooded plant we have in cultivation. — W. H. G. Three good winter-flowering Begonias.— In the stove at Burford Lodge, Dorking, I recently noticed two species that are largely used, and are just now extremely gay. They are B. nitida and B. Roezli. The first-named is an erect-growing plant with smooth, bright shining green leaves and dense panicles of pure white flowers, that are borne upon long stems, so that they are available for cutting. Although Begonia flowers do not last long in a cut state, the quantities of bloom the plants produce enable many gatherings to be made. This plant is an old inhabitant of our gardens, and used to be widely cultivated some few years ago. B. Roezli appears to be free- flower- ing, bearing its reddish scarlet blooms on dense panicles. These plants are easily and quickly grown, and should receive the attention of those having a stove or intermediate house, as there are dozens of handsome kinds which produce their flowers during the winter months. Some few years ago I had a house entirely devoted to these winter-flowering species, and during the winter it was extremely beautiful. Another kind, which was recently blooming in Mr. Laing's nursery at Forest Hill," is well worthy of more extended cul- tivation. It is named Begonia semperflorens gigantea rosea, and although not a giant in growth, its bright rosy red flowers are considerably larger than those of the typical semperflorens. — \V. H. G. ■WORK IN PLANT HOUSES. Winter- BLOOMING plants. — It is necessary to get the cuttings struck of late autumn and winter- flowering plants early enough to allow of the growth becoming well matured before the summer is too far advanced to admit of the wood attaining the requisite firmness, for the amount of bloom that will be forthcoming depends more on this than upon the mere size of the plants. Cuttings of such things as Aphelandras, Eranthemum pulchellum. Plumbago rosea, Sericographis Ghiesbreghti, Thyr- sacanthus rutilans, and others of a like character will now be plentiful on plants that, after bloom- ing, were kept in heat. The plants named all root freely, and do not suffer from a little disturbance. This being the case, the method of putting a num- ber of cuttings together will answer as well as giving each cutting a separate pot. Choose stout, sturdy shoots in preference to those that are long- jointed, for though plants struck from the latter will ultimately gain strength if carefully treated, still strong cuttings require less nursing and give better results. In striking plants that are more or less soft-wooded the cuttings should not be kept closer than is necessary to prevent the leaves flag- ging, for if the atmosphere is too damp and hot they become drawn before they are sufficiently rooted. A temperature of 70° is sufficient. Euphorbia jacquini^flora. — To ensure suc- cess in the propagation of this plant it is requi.site to see that the cuttings are in proper condition. When the shoots are long and severed in the ordi- nary way a large number will damp off ; whereas if they are taken off with a heel there will be few failures. I find the necessity for repeatedly point- ing this out from the complaints that are so often made about this Euphorbia being diflicult to strike. Scutellaria Mocciniana. — This plant blooms so freely and continuously that it should be grown in quantity. Its bright flowers are equally effective in a cut state as they are on the plant, and not the least of its merits is that it will bloom in either a large or a small size. All that it requires in order to maintain it constantly in flower is heat enough to keep the growth moving, as bloom is produced at almost every point of the young wood. Plants that are struck early, and have additional pot-room given them as required through the summer, with atten- tion in stopping the shoots rather than encouraging early blooming, will amply repay the care given them . AcHiMENES. — Where Achimenes are wanted in flower as long as possible, the tubers should be started at different times, for though something may be done to retard the blooming of a portion of the stock by stopping the shoots during the early stages of growth, this does not answer so well as when the plants are started in about three sets at intervals of three weeks or a month. The first roots should be put in now, and supposing them to have been wintered in dry soil in a temperature suflicient to keep them in a healthy state, they should be put in 1 inch or 2 inches apart in ordi- nary large-sized seed-pans, drained and filled with finely-sifted loam, to which has been added some leaf mould and enough sand to make the whole light and open. This condition is necessarv, as when the small plants come to be potted off the tubers are liable to break in removal if the material they are started in is at all inclined to be heavy. Cover the tubers with an inch of the soil, and see that the compost is not too wet or they will be likely to perish. Stand them in a temperature of t'lii" by night; as soon as the young shoots break through the soil more water may be given, and the pans should be put near the glass where there is plenty of light so as to keep the growth short and strong. When the first leaves of Achi- menes that are formed are thin and wanting in sub- stance they usually turn yellow and die off before the flowering is over, in which condition the plants have a poor appearance. Gt.obiosas.— Bulbs of these handsome climbers 'lat have been at rest through Ihe winter should 162 THE GARDEN. [Feb. -25, 1888. now be started. If small, such as raised from seed sown last spring, several may be grown together. In the case of old bulbs that have attained some- thing like their full size, one in a pot will be enough. It is better to start them in 5-inch or 6-inch pots, and after some growth has been made move them into those they are intended to bloom in. A mix- ture of about two-thirds turfy loam to one of peat with some sand answers for them. In potting do not bury the bulbs too deeply. A temperature from 55" tD 60" will be better to start the roots in than sub- jecting them to more heat. When the shoots appear above the surface let them have plenty of light and keep the soil moderately moist, and as soon as the latter is fairly filled with roots, move iuto 12-inch or 15-inch pots, putting sticks or fixing wire trellises to train the shoots round. Tempebature. — It is now time to give more heat to all kinds of stove plants, including the intermediate section. Ixoras, Dipladenias, and others that like a high temperature, and that have been kept for the last three months at near 70° in the night, should now have 5° more, with a cor- responding rise in the daytime. The intermediate kinds that have been kept considerably cooler should have a proportionate increase. Tuberous Begonias — Tubers that have been at rest through the vrinter may now be potted and placed in a temperature of 45° or 50". This will generally be better than subjecting them to more heat, which causes the shoots to get more or less drawn. Small or medium-sized roots, such as were raised from seed last year, may have pots about 2 inches larger than those they occupied last sum- mer. Large-sized tubers may be at first put in pots only a little larger than will hold them, moving them into larger ones later on. If the plants are to be grown in loam it should be of good quality, with plenty of vegetable matter in it ; some sifted leaf- mould, and rotten manure, with enough sand to keep the whole porous, must be added. Where peat is used no leaf-mould will be necessary. Drain the pots well, and do not put the tubers in too deeply ; they are best with their tops just showing above the surface. Another portion of roots may be potted in the course of two or three weeks, and placed in ordinary greenhouse warmth. In all cases, as soon as the growth begins to move, stand the plants where they will get plenty of light, or the stems will become drawn up before the end of the season. Seedling tuberous Begonias.— As soon as the plants raised from seed sown soon after the turn of the year are fairly above the soil, they should be pricked o£E in shallow boxes, drained, and filled with material similar to that in which the seed was sown. They should be put in an inch apart. There are no plants with which I am acquainted that require moving from the seed-pan in so small a state as this section of Begonias. The first roots they make strike straight down, and if the seedlings remain undisturbed for any length of time the roots get injured in pricking off the young plants. It is equally necessary to give all the light possible. Single Chinese Pbimulas.— Seed may be sown now ; the plants raised thus early will come in useful during the latter part of autumn, and, more- over, will have time to gain size and strength, such as is impossible with stock that is raised late. Drain a seed-pan, and fill it with a compost consist- ing of good loam passed through a fine sieve, some leaf-mould also sifted, and sand enough to make the whole quite light. Press the surface smooth and give it a gentle watering. Allow a day for the water to pass off, and then scatter the seeds thinly over the surface, press them gently, but do not c iver them farther than by putting a piece of thin white paper over the top of the pan. In most cases t'lij will keep enough moisture in the soil to enable tie seed to vegetate, and in this way there will be no necessity for watering before the plants appear. Semi-double Chinese Primulas— Some of the leidiDg seel growers have now so far woiked up t.hi^ section of Primulas, that they may be relied on to come true to their character from seed. The ad- vantage attached to these semi-double varieties js, that whilst being more easily grown than the double sorts, the flowers are quite as enduring. Double Chinese Primulas. — These may be propagated at any time when the plants are large enough to divide, but it is well to get enough stock established before the hot weather comes on, as the crowns do not like to be kept too close, and when the propagation is deferred until it is necessary to give much air, it is difficult to prevent the leaves flagging whilst roots are being formed. The crowns or suckers are best put singly in small pots. The soil should contain a good portion of sand. When used it should be moderately moist, but not wet, and no more water should be given than can be avoided until roots are present. Before putting in the suckers, allow them to remain for an hour or two on the potting bench, so that the bases may have time to dry up. Shade must be given when- ever the sun shines on them. Saving seed op Chinese Primulas.— The only means of improving the strain or of keeping a good strain up to the mark is by selecting the plants from year to year that produce the best flowers, saving seed from these alone. It is best to save seed from plants that flower late in spring and that are not then exhausted with having bloomed during winter. Any seedlings that appear with excep- tionally fine flowers, or that show some superiority in habit, should have all the blooms pinched out now. If the plants are well supplied with manure water and placed where they will get plenty of light, they will give a full crop of flowers later on that will produce seed plentifully. Propagating. T. B. may either Clematis indivisa. — This Clematis be increased by cuttings or by grafting" on the roots of the common Traveller's Joy. The best cuttings are furnished by the young growing shoots taken just as they have lost their very succulent character, and having been cut off at a joint, dibbled into pots of sandy soil. In selecting the cuttings, the more vigorous shoots should not be chosen, but rather the weaker short-jointed ones, such, for instance, as those often pushed out from the main stem or principal branches of an established plant, especially if the top has received any check. A length of about 3 inches or 4 inches is a very suitable one for the cuttings, which should have the bottom leaves removed before being dibbled in. The cuttings must then be kept close either by being put In a propagating case or covered by a bell- glass. If the atmosphere of the case is very much overcharged with moisture, the cuttings are better covered with a bell-glass, as the foliage is liable to be attacked by mildew, which is difficult to eradi- cate. For this reason they must not be kept in too warm a temperature. When grafting is the plan adopted, a shoot, such as is recommended for a cut- ting, should be chosen, but if that is not obtainable, a single joint may be taken. In either case the root chosen should be at least as thick as the shoot that is to be grafted on it, and, if possible, should have a few fibres attached to it. All that is neces- sary then is to fashion the scion in the form of a wedge, and having split the stock to the extent re- quired, insert the scion in its place, and tie securely with soft grafting cotton, very good substitutes for which are the coarser kinds of darning cotton. When this is done, the grafted plant must be potted in a small |)ot, and at such a depth that the point of union is completely covered. By this means no grafting wax is rendered necessary, as the air is ex- cluded by the soil that surrounds the mutilated portion. Grafted plants, as a rule, make more rapid progress during their earlier stages than do those raised from cuttings, and as they push forth roots of their own after a time, they have all the advantages of plants that are not grafted. Where it is desired to propagate but a very few, all the different appliances can mostly be dispensed with, for if the plant is trained to the roof of a green- house, it will be generally possible to detach a few shoots and layer them in pots on the stage of the structure in which thej are growing. The pot pre- pared for a layer may be drained and partially filled with soil, then the shoot, tongued after the manner of a Carnation, may be brought into its place and secured by means of a peg or two. The remaining soil may then be put in, covering the part from whence the roots will be produced. Attention should be paid to having the buried portion of the shoot situated at a joint. Asparagus. — Some of the stove and greenhouse kinds of this are extremely popular, so that in many cases it is necessary to increase them as rapidly as possible. Of the different varieties, A. tenuissimus and plumosus can be readily propagated by means of cuttings, which if taken now and formed of the young feathery shoots (not the stout brittle ones just as they come up from the base) strike quickly if plunged in a little bottom-heat in the stove. A very good plan is to fill some Sj-inch pots with light soil, consisting of loam, peat, or leaf-mould and sand in equal proportions. Four cuttings may then be dibbled around the edge of each pot, and when rooted it will not be necessary to dis- turb them, but merely to shift them into a larger size, in which they quickly form effective little plants. The cuttings strike quickly if they aie kept in a close case till rooted. Another variety which is in great demand will not lend itself to this mode of increase, but must either be propagated by seeds, which are sometimes obtainable, or by divi- sion of the roots. I refer to the variety known as plumosus nanus, though in reality when once established it increases in height at a more rapid rate than that which is regarded as the typical A. plumosus. In dividing a plant it is necessary to remove all the soil from the roots to find out the origin of the shoots, as they seldom come np straight from the crown. If this precaution is not taken, some of the shoots without their attendant roots are apt to be cut away. By far the better way to remove the soil is to wash it from the roots either by holding the ball of earth under a tap, or soaking it in a tub or pail of water. With a sharp knife division can be readily effected, when the plants must be repotted into whatever sized pots may be necessary. If kept rather close for a fortnight or so the young plants quickly recover from their check. The pretty, but seldom seen A. decumbens may also be increased by division. Where seeds of any are obtainable, they may be cleaned from the pulp that surrounds them and sown at once. As a rule, most of them can be depended upon to grow. Cbotons. — Where it is desired to make the most of the growing season, the tops of any Crotons that have grown too leggy may be taken off and put in as cuttings. A very good plan is to insert them in single pots, as when struck they can then be shifted on without disturbing the roots. A compost con- sisting of equal parts of peat, loam, and sand will suit the cuttings perfectly. If the cuttings are plunged in a gentle bottom-heat they soon root, when they must as quickly as possible be inured to the ordinary atmosphere of the stove, as if kept close for any length of time after they are rooted, the growing points are apt to become drawn. The cuttings should be sponged before they are inserted, as should any thrips be present they will increase rapidly in the confined atmosphere and disfigure the leaves. As the merit of a Croton consists in the foliage being retained close to th(> pot, no more leaves should be removed than absolutely neces- sary, and when plunged in the esse care should be taken that they are not overcrowded, as if arranged too thickly a good many leaves are liable lo drop. No time should be lost in putting them in after they are removed from the parent plant, as if allowed to flag many of the leaxes will turn yellow and decay. T. Austrian Hellebores. — T got 500 nice young, healthy clamps nf Austrian Uell«borug niger from Stienpock; hut Walter Ware, of Bath, declares that they are no good, as they will not gi-ow with him at Hath. Even .seedlings (native seeil), he says, fail after the second year. It' ho got his imported stuff in iiutunin it might make all the differ.'nce, as now is the time to plant or divide these flowers. — F. W. BlBBIDOE. Feb. 25, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 163 CLEMATIS MISS BATEMAN. The beauty of this, one of the prettiest of hardy climbers, is well shown in the engraving we give, which is from a photograph of a plant on the porch of a cottage in the grounds of Mr. W. H. Tillett at Sprowston, near Norwich. It is one of the spring-flowering varieties, bloom- ing at the end of May and in June. Its flowers are large and of a good white, with stamens of a reddish plum colour, the contrast being very pleasing. There is a pale green bar down the centre of each petal, but it is almost invisible, and in no way detracts from the charm of the flowers. For such a situation as that in which it is shown in our engraving, it is one of the j most atti-active of plants. Flower Garden. CHARACTERS OF CHRISTMAS ROSES. In distinguishing the different varieties of Helle- borus niger, we must, I imagine, begin with the leaves, seeing that they are present all the year round, and so at all times determinable. Of the leaves, it is easy to distinguish three main groups, and to these groups, as I at present believe, all the widely difl'erent forms and phases of H. niger as a species may be referred with an exactness more or less definite. These groups are : — 1. — H. NIGER type, haviEg short-stalked leaves with five to nine lobes, each lobe or leaflet being Clematis Mias Bateman over porch. Engraved for The Gabden, Destroying wireworms.— Will any reader of The G.\rden advise as to the deatrnction of wire- worms, which are very troublesome among our forced Strawberries, A-c? I have stacked some turf wbich has been exposed to the weatlier since last October in a single layer, and on breaking it up for potting I find that wireworms are present. — H. L. Leaves as a protection.— The value of leaves as a protection is well shown on the Winter Aconites here. Large masses of these are growing under a clump of Beech trees, the leaves of which have been allowed to remain where they fell, with the result that the Aconites protected with 2 inches or 3 inches of them have grown to quite treble the height of those that are without this protection ; the stems are also stout and strong and do not look drawn. This extra top- dressing must have a beneficial effect on the roots. •■Under the same trees are a few plants of Cjolamen hedersefolium which have made fine growth, pro- mising well for a good show of bloom next autumn.^ John C. Tallack, Livermere Park. obovate or rhomboidal in form, broad in propor- tion to its length, and of a medium green colour; the margins more or less coarsely serrated; the leaves and flower-stalks more or less dotted with red. 2. — H. NIGER "St. Briqid " type, having long- stalked leaves of seven to nine lobes, each lobe or leaflet being oblong-lanceolate in form, not so flat as in H. niger, and very long in proportion to their breadth. The margins are but slightly serrate, and I he whole leaf is of an apple-green lint, much paler than in H. niger. Leaf -stalks pale apple-green, not dotted with red. 3.— H. NIGER ALTiFOLius type, having very large long-stalked leaves of seven to nine, or even eleven lobes. Leaflets generally thoinboidal in outline and roughly saw-edged, broad in proportion to their length. The whole leaf is of a very dark sap-green colour, and the leaf and flower-stalks are alike very heavily dotted or stained with red. These three groups are quite broadly defined and instantly recognisable by any ordinary ob- server who may see the plants side by side at any time in the year. We next come to the floral characters, which are also well marked in their way ; but I would caution anyone against attempting to name va- rieties of Christmas Roses from cut specimens only, even when leaves accompany the blooms. This season, for example, I have had many boxes of flowers from all parts of England and Ireland, and in several cases the flowers were tied up with leaves, which I at once saw did not belong to them. Flowers of H. altifolius with leaves of H. niger came to hand in two or three cases, and on my writing to ask particulars, I was told that the owners did not like to cut the leaves of the large-flowered kind, as they thought the smaller leaves would do as well. Anyone, how- ever, who has once seen plants of the above three typical leaf groups wUl never be at a loss in recognising them. The flowers of all the varieties of Christmas Roses may be very conveniently and naturally arranged into three sections under the above leaf groups. Thus there are (1) deep-cupped flowers, (2) shallow, saucer-shaped flowers, and (3) starry or narrow-sepalled flowers. We will take them seriatim. Sub-division 1. — Flowers having very broadly imbricated sepals, rounded at their points, and when at their best forming deep, shapely cnp-like flowers. Sab-division 2. — Flowers like the last, having broadly imbricated sepals rounded at their points, and when at their best forming shallow or saucer- like flowers. Sub-division 3. — Flowers having sepals narrow at the base and pointed at their apices, not imbricate, and when at their best bearing open stellate or star- shaped blooms. Of course, I know that all kinds of plant classi- fication are arbitrary, and that rules that are very nice and satisfactory on paper break down utterly in the garden. To some extent this will be so in the case of Christmas Roses now that cross-bred (see p. 121) varieties are being raised in quantity. Still, generally speaking, the above plan of grouping Christmas Roses will be found simple and useful by those who have rich and full collections of these flowers Now we come to the minor characters of the flowers, such as size and colour, both to some extent variable under cultural conditions apart altogether from hybridisation. In a word, any botanical observations made in Italy, Austria, or Germany, where these plants are wild and have existed under the same or similar condi- tions for ages, will have to be modified or varied to an enormous extent under cultivation. So, on the other hand, mere garden observers are apt to be led away from the natural facts when they argue only from the cultural point of view. We must look at the plants from both sides of the question — that is, from the natural or botanical side, and from the artificial or gardener's side as well. Now, at p. 120, Mr. Archer-Hind wishes me to reconsider the question of "pink stigmas" as a character (1) of H. altifolius (^ maximus); (2) of varieties reared from seeds of H. altifolius, or from seeds of other varieties fertilised by its pollen. Since I last wrote I have seen some hundreds of Austrian varieties, and they vary enormously in size and in habit, and the stig- mata especially so, viz. , from pure white through p.ale green to flesh, rose, pink, while some are as deeply coloured as are those of H. altifolius at its best, that is, nearly blood-coloured. But this is not all, for this year we have had St. Brigid'spure white, pale-stemmed variety wi'h 164 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. "pink stigmas," and H. altifolius with pale gre^u sti^nKS without a trace of red colouring whatever. The facts of the case seem to show that die distribution of red colouring in the flowers of Ciirisrmas Ros^-s is chi-mical, and not d«peii.ient on botiuical atfiaities or on geogra- phical distribution, as Mr. Aroher-Hiud is anxious to infer When we find such a flux of red colouring diS'using itself through the stt-ms, leaves, and flowers as it generally does in H. altifodus, we naturally look out for and expect to find pink stigmata in the flower, but, as I have sH'd, .such is not invariably the case, and Mr. Archer-Hind's argument is so far quite insufficient to sat'sfy me in this mat- ter. Red colouring ia Christmas Roses, no matter where seen, is an indefinite quantity, and it will be found a shifting index in these flowers, just as it is in seedling Primroses and in Odoutoglossum Alexandrie, the flowers and leaves of which vary in rosy tinting from year to year. We all remember the arguments em- ployed some years ago about the deep rosy flowers of H. altifolius, as figured in The Gar- den, and which was generally acknowledged at the time to be a faithful picture of a phase this plant assumes on some soils and in some seasons. Therein lies the gist of this matter, viz. , Nature's chemistry varies from year to year. As an ex- periment bearing on this question, let anyone interested grow two plants of the same variety of Christmas Rose, the one in peat and leaf- mould, and the other in chalky loam or in a limestone soil. The result is astonishing, and nine people out of ten would imagine that plants so grown were two distinct varieties. As to the best time and manner of re-plant- ing Christmas Roses, I am, for my own soil and climate, perfectly satisfied that now is the time, and the best manner is to wash out the old clumps under a hose-pipe, and to break off the separate crowns with their own young roots, and to re-plant them at once in a sheltered position, and in a bed trenched 3 feet or 4 feet deep. Larger clumps, if carefully moved, may succeed, but such masses are crowded and must be well fed with liquid manure. These clumps are especially liable to suffer from drought after removal. In preparing the beds or borders, I work in a large dressing of manure with the lower spit and a half of the bed, and then throw back the surface soil. Beds or borders so dug and manured do not dry up during the hot summer months, yet in addition the plants are midched with Cocoa-nut fibre or rotten manure, and watered heavily during the season of leaf-growth with weak manure water to which soot is added. Slugs are banished by dressings of wood ashes, the potash in which disagrees with them. Christmas Roses grow like Cab- bages if well treated and moved just as they go out of flower. They will not endure dry, cut- ting winds, and during dry weather must be well attended to with water. F. W. BORBIDQE. Self Carnations. — Mr. Donglas surprises me when he states that the best self border Carnations come from flakes, bizarres, or Picotees, That may be the experience of one who raises chiefly from these forms, but it is not generally correct. Jfy batch of capital self kinds of last year came solely from Susan Askey, white, and a good Kirlet from Warwick. These two, only naturally intercrossed, gave only a few flakes or bizarres, relatively the majority being selfs, inclusive of pure and fine whites to violet, purples, and deep crimsons, and I think some few, second to no nsimed variety men- tioned by Mr. Dou^flas. I notice that he has omitted crimson hues in his selection, which is 8urpri..iiig. as the-e are so elle(tiv« and beautiful. I lajeied deepcrimsou, reddish criinson, purple, plum- coloured, violet-purple, deep and light scarlet, rO'^e, sa'm m, atid fine-fringnd varieties as wi-U as Mn ioth-eri^(-d whites, so that nere are fully a dizen or so of goo'l self.- all hardy and robu^tand from »ft-d of self fl.wers. 1 have no doubt but that there i-* miicti beauty in a house of Cirnations and Pico- tees in pots, but the plants show no variati m in habit, and bt-iog all tied up erect with rather leggy stem.*, set^m to need the help of some Ferns or other foliage plants as foils. But beautiful as they ma^ be uniier glass, at least they are very beautiful also out of doors, and if properly tied or supported suffer hut little from heavy rains. I found my bed of several hundreds of seedlings last summer to be very attractive. — A. D. TRANSPLANTING CHRISTMAS ROSES. In reply to " Hortus," in The Garden, February 11 (p. 120), I may say that I do not advocate trans- planting Christmas Roses annually, or even bien- nially. My note was written to combat the idea that they are exceptionally impatient of removal, and to show that no one need fear the result of a properly managed attempt to increase their stock by division. Removal of soil. — I think the soil imme- diately round an old-established plant must be im- poverished, even if the bed itself is not completely exhausted, and it is far better removed, especially if division is the object of lifting, as one can then see where to use the knife. The contact of fresh and suitable soil with the plant itself also induces the formation of new roots, which would never have started in the old ball — this, at least, is my theory. I attach no further value to washing and soaking, as a means of clearing oS the old soil, than the ease with which this operation can be performed without injury to the roots. Time of kemoval. — As to this, I should not lift Christmas Roses until the flowers have begun to get discoloured, and even then only in mild weather. The end of .January or beginning of February is none too early for H. n. altifolius or maximus, and I would prefer to err on the side of earliness rather than wait till leaf growth has commenced. These plants, being devoid of quick-growing fibrous roots, would naturally be impatient of such a check as late removal would be likely to give them, while they are so thoroughly hardy, that, once planted, no frost will injure them. The question " settled." — Although " Hor- tus " may consider this question of injury by removal settled, I am firmly convinced to the contrary, for no one will be content to go on with a small stock of plants who can see his way clear to increase it without risk. Since I wrote my note I have received a communication from a gentleman who probably knows as much about Christmas Roses as anyone in the country, and he thoroughly a)irees with what I wrote. Of course no one would expect the same quantity of flowers from a small plant after a year's growth as the parent plant may have produced just before the division took place ; but a few blooms of good quality may reasonably be expected, and in the following year a thoroughly good display of flowers. This cannot be called long for a gardener to wait. I quite agree with " Hortus," that the whole stock should not be lifted in any one year. Such a course would, to say the least of it, be somewhat careless, for the unexpected often happens, and I should never move a plant while it was doing well, unless I wished to increase the stock. Jlut the questinn is : Who does not wish to increase his stock of Christmas Roses now-a-days ?— JoiTN C. Tallacic, Lirermere Pari;. " Hortus ' advises well in relation to these hardy plants at the close of his remarks at page 121. I have found from considerable experience that the plants are impatient both of transplanting and division ; indeed, it seems doubtful whether the plants having once been lifted do not depend for future establishment after re-planting upon new roots chiefly sent down from the bHse of the crowns. I have just put out a large number of plants, which were lifted into a greenhouse in De- i cember. After being in the house and in a bed of (;ood soil for two month.s, I find, on getting them oat and dividing the crowns, that numerous new roots have been made, but that the old roots seem to have made no move in the way of attach- ment to the soil Could the plants have remained where thus temporarily placed, no doubt, with a plentiful supply of water, they would have done admirably until the great heat of summer proved too much for them under glass. The next best thing, of cour.se, was to get them out and re-plant in good, holding soil as quickly as possible, and the mild, open weather has be^n of great assistance. Still, the real difficulty for only partially established plants is found in the almost assured heat and drought of the summer, and from which the plants seldom recover until after a second year's growth. Thus it is important to have an ample stock, to enable one halt to be lifted and divided in alternate years. Probably in Lancashire and further north the average summer temperature is much less trying than in the south. — A. D. THE MIMULUS. I HAPPENED to be in a very large garden the other day where an immense number of bedding plants had to be grown, and it was very difficult indeed to find room for them during the spring months. Noticing a large number of what seemed to be pots full of nothing but dry soil, I was informed that they were Mimuluses, brousht in to start into growth. Here was valuable space being taken up in a greenhouse with a perfectly hardy plant, besides the time taken up in potting them. Mimuluses require no potting and no glass protection. Of course there may be Mimuluses that are not quite hardy, but the garden varieties are. Does anyone know the parentage of the garden Mimuluses ? I have looked through numerous books published during the last century, and have found many coloured illustrations, but none of them give the species from which the spotted garden varieties have been produced. There is a good illustration in the Botanical 3Iai/a:me (tab. 1501) of Mimulus luteus by Sydenham Edwards. The flowers are yellow, with crimson spots in the throat. The editor states — That although it flowers the same year that it ia sown, we should judge from its habit that its duration is more than annual. It was found in California and at Nootka by a Mr. Archibald Menzies, although it had been previously described by a certain Father Feuillfie, who found it in Chili. It was also found by a Russian botanist. Dr. Langsdortli, and described by him under the name of M. Langsdorfti. Coming down to the early volumes of the Horti- cultural Cabinet and The l<'lorist, we find the Mimulus frequently figured, some of them merely improved forms of M. luteus. In the year 1835, David Douglas sent from California a deep rich red species named M. cardinalis. We find one figured with a yellow throat and a deep rich margin, evi- dently a cross between M. luteus and M. cardinalis. In)the volume of T/ie Florist for 1S50 Mimulus Prince of Wales is figured. The flowers are represented as deep yellow with this red margin, but it is broken up into spots and blotches. It is described as " rich yellow margined with crimson-maroon, and having a handsome blotch of the same colour on each petal ; throat spotted." At this time the Mimulus was a popular flower, as one may easily ascertain by the numerous allusions to it in the gardening press. I can remember the time when almost every garden had a bed of Mimuluses, and none were without plants of them " A. D." gives some cul- tural directions at p. 121. I have no doubt that autumn-sown seeds will produce early-flowering plants, but they do best planted out in the open ground in a moist place : in fact, they are semi- aquatic, and if grown in pots should be potted in rich soil and have plenty of water. They can easily be propagated by division if it is thought necefsary to glow any pariicularly good fi rms ttiat may have been obtained from seeds. If seeds of a good strain are obtained, it is certainly very interesting to Feb. 25, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 165 watch the development of the flowers, and the plants will under good cultivation soon cover the surface of the groand where they are planted. They like partial shade, and in some districts pro- bably slight protection in winter. J. Douglas. GALANTHUS ELAVESI MA.JOR. In The Garden, April 30, 1887 (p. 393), the Rev. W. Wilks described a Snowdrop from Asia Minor under the specific name of Galanthus globosus. In subsequent numbers of The Garden both Mr. Elwes and myself objected to that new specific name being given for the following among other good reasons : — Firstly, the G. globosus of Mr. VVilks had previously been figured and described at t. 6166 of the Botanical Maga::[He under the name of its discoverer, Mr. H. J. Elwes. Secondly, this particular globose-flowered form or variety had previously been figured and de- scribed by myself in The Garden in 1884 (Vol. XXV., p. 371) as G. Elwesi major. Thirdly, the name globosus is generally applicable to all the lai'ger phases of Mr. Elwes' Snowdrop from Smyrna — a fact corroborated by Mr. Peter Barr, who used to describe the plant in bud in his trade lists as resembling the flower-buds of the old Fuchsia globosa, so that Mr. Wilks's name had not even' the merit of originality to recommend it to the notice of those who love and grow these pearly blossoms of the opening year. Had Mr. Wilks pointed out the fact that his Snowdrop was not only nearly related, but actually only a form or phase of G. Elwesi, nothing more would have been heard of the matter ; but to honour a mere form with a specific title is really too much, and can only lead to confusion in the nomenclature of garden plants. I seud herewith flowers of G. Elwesi major picked out of a batch of collected roots received from Smyrna direct a few years ago, and I submit that they are what Mr. Wilks describes under the name of G. globosus. But in case Mr. Wilks still up- holds his views in face of this direct proof to the contrary, then I submit that he ought to refer the question to Sir Joseph Hooker, who originally named, figured, and described Galan- thus Elwesi in the Botanical Mat/a::ini', or to the much-respected authority on our garden Snowdrops, Mr. James Allen, of Shepton- Mallet. As you will observe from the speci- mens sent herewith, the glaucous leaves of this variety of G. Elwesi are so broad and substan- tial, that they suggest the leaves of a Daftbdil rather than of a Snowdrop. As to the scapes of Mr. Wilks' specimens bearing twin flowers, I need scarcely remark that such accidental vagaries are common to all the varieties as grown in our gardens, but that they do not retain that distinction. F. W. BURBIDQE. *jj.* The blooms referred to above were sent to Mr. Wilks, who sends us the following com- munication : — My Snowdrops are lying under i inches of snow, so I cannot actually compare. On those you have sent me I remark that two of them appear to me to differ from the other iive, and if the characteristic green arch on the segments of the tube is fixed, as I suspect it to be, in contradistinction to the square blotches of the others, it deserves at least a varietal designation. The sepals are much withered, but they appear to be longer and less broad than in my flowers, and to present a decidedly more drop shape, less globe shape. In Elwesi major is the majority fixed, or is it only the result of large, well-cultivated bulbs of Elwesi simple .' in other words, would not E. major badly grown revert to Elwesi .' — W. Wilks, Shirleij Mcarage, Crmjdon. P.S. — Since writing to you this morning I have re- ceived anote from Mr. Barbidge requesting me to with- draw the name globosus from my Galanthus. I have not the faintest objection. I only use the name for distinction in my own garden, and if I can from any source obtain G. Elwesi major I will grow it beside my globosus, and if they are identical I do not mind at all calling my flower (dubbed globosus by me in 1882) G. E. major, which name Mr. Bur- bidge gave his flower in 1884. Still, I cannot think it a good name, as typical Elwesi often grows even bigger than my so-called globosus, which therefore hardly merits the term major. The peculiarity of the flower I call globosus is its constant globular form and broad green arch on the segments, and its very great tendency to twin blooms without fascia- tion. If such variations from the type are constant and fixed, it appears to me that the plant deserves a varietal distinctive name; the specific distinctions between several of the Galanthus seem very slight. Pray do not let it appear that I am desirous of im- posing on other people a name I invented simply for my own garden use and distinction, albeit that name dates back to 1881 or 1882. I am quite willing to call it major if 1 can get a bulb of true major and find it identical. Evergreen Clematis (C. cirrhosa). — Though the Clematis is stich a popular flower, many lists might be searched for in vain without flnding a mention of this, yet, according to Loudon, it was introduced in 15!li). It is one of the few species of Clematis that are evergreen in character, and besides this it flowers early in the year. Throughout the dull days of winter the clusters of deep green leaves form an attractive feature, and just now the flowers that are produced from every joint enhance its beauty. They cannot be called showy, being less than an inch in diameter and of a greenish white tint, but the exterior of the bloom is clothed with silky down. It is not a vigorous growing species, and for that reason need not have a large amount of space allotted to it. From the time of year at which it blooms it is evident that a slight protection will be of advantage ; indeed, such an amount of shelter as that afforded by a south wall will suit it perfectly, as the early blooms are thereby to a great extent protected from frost. — T. Carnations f com cuttings. — Many who wish to grew and increase their stock of Carnations seem to be of the opinion that they are dilBcult to in- crease by cuttings, but this is quite a mistake, as in looking over our stock 1 find that more than 90 per cent, that were inserted at different times during the autumn are now well rooted. They are ready to go out, but I shall not remove them from where temporary protection can be applied until the March winds are passed. The majority of our plants are under hand-lights or in cold frames, and they are treated similar to yellow Calceolarias, and strike as readily. The hand-lights are placed on a hard foundation of coal ashes, and finely sifted soil to the depth of about 3 inches is put in, and on this some coarse silver sand. The cuttings are then dibbled in rows, well watered, and kept close for about three weeks, after which they are freely venti- lated on all favourable occasions. If, however, sharp frost prevails they are covered with litter, and as soon as the days begin to lengthen they will begin to root and grow at the tops. If put out in April in good soil the plants will produce some fine flowers and make splendid clumps for next season. Xot only may the common border kinds be successfully treated in this way, but even the best varieties, as I put in a good lot of Souvenir de la Malmaison cuttings quite late in the autumn and they are now nearly all rooted and fit for potting up. I may remark that the best plants of these I have ever seen were grown in pans about ij inches deep and were wintered in a cold orchard house ; they do not like coddling in warm houses.— J. G. H. Saxifraga Stracheyi. — In a cool greenhouse some clumps of this are nicely in bloom, and not only are they very distinct from their companions, but possess the advantage of flowering well at this season when just protected from the frost; whereas many hardy subjects that naturally flower later require far more forcing to brine them into bloom thus early. This SaxifrHga belongs to the Megasea, or large-leaved section, but it is not so vigorous as some of them, and it blooms while the leaves are as yet only partially expanded. The individual blooms are rather large, and in colour are white with a red centre. It is a native of Northern India, and though perfectly hardy may be made a note of as a variety well worthy of cultiva- tion. When bloomed under glass early in the year the flowers are purer in colour than when exposed to the spring frosts and heavy rains, which greatly mar the beauty of the plant. — T. FLOWER SEEDS FOR EARLY SOWING. Sweet Peas are useful annuals, as the flowers are valuable when cut, and the plants make excellent divisional lines or screens for shutting out during the summer months any objectionable object. When required for this purpose much depends upon the character of the soil and how it is prepared whether the plants make a satisfactory screen or not. If they are required to grow from 5 feet to 6 feet high the ground must be either manured and trenched up 2 feet deep, or there should be a trench pre- pared as for Celery, with a layer of manure in the bottom. If the seeds are sown upon ground pre- pared in this way there will be no difficulty in forming a screen that will last from early summer until the autumn if the seed-pods are picked off as fast as they appear; but if a crop of seeds is allowed to ripen, there will be few flowers at the end of the summer. A row of Sweet Peas makes a capital divisional line in small gardens to separate the vegetable part from the other, and when thoroughly well grown in this way there is no other annual flower more suitable. Gaillardias. — These are so indifferent as to the soil they are grown in that they are just the plants to raise in quantity by those who have large spaces to cover. They are more suitable for the mixed border than for planting in separate beds. For famishing cut flowers they are most valuable, as they continue to bloom very late in the summer. Now is a good time to sow the seed if a little warmth to bring on the plants can be given. Keep them in a growing temperature until the seedlings have filled 3-inch pots with roots. Coleus. — Unless any particular kind is wanted orlarge plants are required to grow on into speci- mens, there is no necessity to keep over plants in the winter to form stock for another year. They are easily raised from seed, and so many beautiful kinds can be secured when the seed is obtained from a good source, that it is a decided gain in time and space to depend upon seedlings for ordinary summer decoration. Seedling plants are also more vigorous than those raised from cuttings and of as good a habit. If large plants are wanted the seed should be sown at the beginning of February, but in such cases they require a good heat to keep them growing. For the general run of cultivators early in March will be soon enough to sow the seed. I have raised good stocks of plants from seed sown at that time, and have found them quite large enough for the conservatory and for household decoration. Prepare a pan of fine sandy soil and sow the seed thinly, just covering it with a little fine earth. Bottom-heat is very desirable, and there is none better than that furnished by a Cucumber or Melon bed, in which the plants should remain until they are 2 inches high, and then they may be removed to a warm house before being put into single pots. The after-management I need not describe further than to say the plants will require a moderate degree of warmth, and to be shifted into larger pots as they require more root room. Gloxinias. — Now is a good time to sow the seed, and if the plants are grown on all the summer in a close warm house, they will attain a useful size and produce a good many flowers by the end of the summer. There are few more at'ractive subjects on the front bench of a stove-house during September and October, and no plants are more valued or more suitable at that season of the year for vases in the dwelling-house. The seedlings are 166 THE GARDEN. so small at first that there is danger of their being washed away unless very carefully watered ; and they also damp off if the house is not judiciously ventUated and the soil kept moist and no more. Those who have hotbeds at work may sow at once ; but it is better to wait a week or two longer if there is no bottom heat available, as the best success attends those who can start them at first in a brisk temperature. Sow the seed carefully in a pan of sandy soil, and to prevent water being required too soon keep the pan in darkness until the seedlings appear, and as soon as these are large enough prick them off into small pots, keep them away from the sun, and avoid giving them too large pots. The largest plants when in flower should not be in pots more than 4J inches in diameter. TuBBEOtrs-KOOTED BEGONIAS. — The sooner seeds of these Begonias are sown the larger the plants will be. But unless there are 70° of heat at command it is better to wait a month longer, for in a lower temperature, especially if the soil is a little too moist, the seed is liable to perish. The young plants may be treated the same as advised for the Gloxinias until they have filled the small pots full of roots, and then I like to plant them out in a bed of soil in a cold frame. Treated in this way the plants make larger tubers, and if they are wanted for any purpose they bear lifting so well, even when in full bloom, that they may be put into pots or used to fill up vacant spaces in any part of the garden. Hollyhocks. — Seed sown at once in a tempera- ture of about 60° will produce plants that will flower fairly well by the end of summer, but it must not be supposed that they will be equal to those raised from seed or cuttings last autumn. The seed may be sown in a pan if desired and the plants afterwards put into pots, but the most speedy way of getting strong plants is to fill a num- ber of small pots full of sandy soil and to put a single seed in each. From these pots the plants can be shifted on into larger ones as they fill them with roots. But it is better to confine the potting to one shift, and that from the one in which they are raised to others from i inches to 5 inches in diameter. To encourage a quick growth the plants must be kept growing in a heated structure until the middle of April, after which, a position in the greenhouse or cool Peach house will suit them. After being hardened off, they may be put out where they are to flower about the middle of May. The ground must be dug up two spits deep and liberally enriched with manure, and the plants must be well supplied with water In dry weather all the summer. It sometimes happens that seedling Hollyhocks do better than older plants, as they are not so liable to get diseased. Indian Shot (Cannas).— Although Cannas are perhaps, strictly speaking, foliage plants, they also flower freely towards the end of the summer. The seed of Cannas is so hard, that it is desirable to soak it in water for twenty-four hours before sow- ing, and when sown, place the pot on a strong bot- tom-heat until the plants are large enough to pot off. To secure specimens that will make a good effect early next summer, they must have plenty of heat, plenty of pot room, and a rich soil, and should not be planted out in the open until the middle of Jmc. j_ c. C. [Feb. 25, 1888. away as if harvested only last year. Malva capensis the same. Hibiscus Humboldti.— Of this two seed- lings only appeared. One soon died ; the other was weakly at first, but by the help of liquid manure quickly made a start, flowered and seeded. Lyco- persicum texanum. — Two or three came up, but were too feeble to make progress, and soon perished. The following, amongst many others, failed entirely : Hibiscus populneus, H. Lampas, H. Sabdariffa, H. Harrisoni, H. Jerroldianus; a number of Cucurbits, annual and perennial; Ipomaja paniculata, I. striata, I._ albivenia, I. grandiflora ; Datura ferox, D. cartha- ginensis, D. fastuosa, D. ceratocaula, D. quercifolia, and D. Wrighti. I was led to expect that some of the Daturas might survive from having known D. Stra- monium to come up on freshly turned soil that had not previously been moved within living memory. — J. M., CJiarmouth, Dorset. Qermination of seede. — When ransacking some drawers of a cabinet last spring, I came across a quantity of portions of packets of seeds obtained at various times from thirty to thirty-five years ago. Curious to see if any vitality was left after such a long incarceration, and having a hot-water tank bed at work, after soaking the seeds forty-eight hours in tepid water, I sowed them, and the result was as follows : Of Mimosa pudica all the seeds grew, and seemed to have lost none of their vigour, but came up rather irregulariy. This seed was, I am positive, over thirty-five years old. It was amongst the first lot of seeds I ever bought, and I have not grown it since. Malva miniata (a broad-leaved shrubby species, not the trailing jjlant that goes generally by the name) also vegetated abun<]antly, and grew Chrysanthemums. E. MOLYNEUX. SEASONABLE NOTES. One cause of the Chrysantbemum being so popular is its iitness for cultivation in various ways. Even the cottager can grow Chrysanthe- mtims satisfactorily out of doors, provided a favourable position can be obtained. The ama- teur cultivator is also taking a greater interest in the Chrysanthemum, and the market grower of cut blooms also grows this plant largely. The Chrysanthemum 'at the present time is most generally grown for the production of large blooms. In my ojiinion this system is the best if the plants are grown with one, two, or three stems, reducing the number of flowers on a plant according to the requirements in each case. When the plants are grown in the bush style, the flowers of some sorts are so much paler than those Lome by plants grown under more generous treatment, and for the decoration of rooms in a cut state, large blooms are to be recommended in most instances. For late flowering, or where a large number of blooms is needed, and there is not room to grow many plants, the bush method is to be recommended. To obtain tlie plants the points of the leading shoots must be pinched out to promote a lateral growth. Now is the time to decide by wliicli method and for what purpose the plants are to be cultivated. For the production of large blooms for aitlier exhibition or home use, I will .suppose the bulk of the varieties are by this time rooted, the plants 3 inches to C, inches high, and many (if the earliest-struck ones have bad their fir.st shift into 3-inub pots. These should now be occupying a posi- tion on a shelf close to the glass in a cool liouse, or placed singly in a cold frame on a dry bottom of coal ashes where the superfluous water will quickly run away from the plants so as to prevent as much as possible the attacks of mil- dew. There are three metJiods practised by growers to secure large blooms. Some groweis top the jilants when 4 inches liigh, and tliis is done by pinching out the point of tlie slioot, so as to induce the production of otlier growths, which are reduced to two in number. Tliu strongest arc, of course, retained, and tliesc arc tied to a stake and allowed to extend until the first natural break takes place, and from this natural lireak two otlier shoots are carrietl up, making in all four blooms to each plant. The reason for topping the plants is tluit some con- sider it ensures a dwarfer habit, but this docs not always result, as I liave seen plants grow quite as tall wlieu treated in tliis manner as when cultivated under what may bo ternuMl more natural methods. Others top tho plants wlien 8 inches liigh, selecting tliree branches produced from this topping and training them to separate stakes, so that each has its equal share of light and air. All axillary growths are removed as fast as they appear. I have never yet seen plants of this class bear blooms of first- class quality ; they are generally large, but lack depth and solidity. Flowers which have not the two last-mentioned qualities never take a very high place at the exhibition, owing, I tliink, to the wood not becoming thoroughly ripened, the I'esult of pinching the growths. The incurved section is most influenced by the bush .system of culture. In the most popular method the plants are not topped at all, but are allowed free growth until the first natural break, which sometimes occurs about the middle of May or early in June, according to the variety and the time the cuttings were struck. No definite rule can be laid down as to when the first natural break wiU take place. The variety Val d'Andorre will not grow more than 1 foot or 2 feet high before the natural break takes place, which is caused by the formation of a flower-bud in the point of the stem of the plant; while otlier varieties, notably Mmo. C. Audiguier and Belle Paule, grow to a height of 4 feet before they break. When such break does take place the bloom bud formed must be rubbed out, selecting three of the strongest shoots, removing all others below this pomt, and all subsequent growths as fast as they appear. Sectire the selected growths by tying them to a stake as they grow, and if any .side shoots are formed these mvist be removed at once, retaining only the three shoots selected at the first break. At the point of each branch flower-buds will form in due time, commencing early in August and continuing throughout Sep- tember. This is the method by which many otliers beside myself have adopted, and have produced the best results. Occasionally we hear of other systems stated to be improvements, but after a trial many growers have returned to this more natui-al method of cultivation. What is puzzling to many beginners in the cultivation of the Chrysanthemum is the num- ber of plants they ought to grow to secure sufficient blooms in the various classes at the different exhibitions they intend to compete at. It seems to me that there is no better time for naming this subject than now, when the diffe- rent methods of growth are under consideration. If an exhibitor wishes to stage forty-eight dis- tinct blooms, twenty-four of which may be in- curved and the remainder Jaiianese — this being the regulation in vogue at most of the leading exhibitions — he should grow at least thirty-six varieties in each section, as all arc not to be depended upon to produce what is required. In some seasons one sort is quite useless ; whereas the ue.xt year quite the reverse may occur. Accidents may happen to tlie plants at any time during the year, such as wind breaking the shoots or insects destroying the buds at a critical period. The varieties should consist of the very best, growing a number of plants of each rather than be burdened with worthless kinds merely for variety alone. It will be necessary to have 300 plants to eftect the object ill view, or l.'iO in each section. To some jierscma this may seem a large number, but by having so many success is more likely to be attained, and what is worth doing at all is worth doing well. A good margin is also left to allow of competition in other smaller classes or for home use. For a twenty-four class, sup] losing them to be half incurved and the remainder Japanese, twenty-four vai'ieties in each section arc not too many to grow, and the total number of plants should not be less than 150. This is a favourite class with many societies, and generally results in a keen competition. When confined to a Ebb. 25, 1888. THE GARDEN. 167 smaller class of, say, twelve distinct, either Japanese or incurved, the selection of varieties should be more exclusive than in the larger classes. In this class at the leading shows it is not unusual to see from fifteen to seventeen competitors. Twenty-four names should be chosen and about seventy plants grown, giving the preference to the best varieties only, as set forth in my list in The Garden, Dec. 3, 1887 (p. 505). CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTURE. In The Garden, Feb. 4 (p. 88), "Inquirer" asks my reason for preferring clean-cut cuttings to rooted suckers. In the first place, I think all will agree that the latter have a very great tendency through the summer months to reproduce suckers apparently receiving any check. " Inquirer " thinks that from the last week in March to the first or second week in June is rather a long time for the plants to remain in 6-inch pots. My reason for not giving the plants their final potting till June is that I do not care to place them in their Cowering pots till quite necessary, owing to the length of time the plants have to remain in them, and also because the large amount of watering and feeding they require after this potting tends to render the soil sour and to interfere with the drainage, however carefully it may have been attended to. And again, the summer quarters for the Chrysanthe- mums must be an open, airy position, and in some localities it will not be safe to place them there too early, as cold winds and frosts are very injurious to them in this state. I have never found Chrysan- themums, not even the incurved varieties, suffer by early or crown buds produce the largest flowers, but unfortunately the majority of these cannot be kept in a fresh state till the middle of November. Edwin Beckett. The Gardens, Aldenliam Parh, Mstree. ChrysanthemuHi Pelican. — This variety has again asserted its right to be classed amongst the best kinds for producing late ilowers. On the 4th of the present month I cut the last blooms of this variety. They were quite full in the centre, pure white in colour and about 5 inches in diameter, the outer florets spreading out horizontally, while the centre of each flower was neatly filled with florets. The flowers in question were the production of terminal buds obtained by removing the centre, or what is known as the crown buds formed in the Cut flowers boldly used. which must be removed If blooms of good quality are to be expected. In the removal of these suckers, no doubt many of the principal roots will be de- stroyed. Secondly, clean-cut cuttings about 4 inches long when once struck make much freer growth and retain their foliage better. Striking the cuttings. — I have struck the cuttings both singly and four in a pot, and after careful observation I do not hesitate to say that the latter method is the most economical. Space for propagation in the middle of winter is a con- sideration to a great many cultivators, and by striking four in a pot one is able to strike more, and to select at potting-ofE time only those that are strong and promise to make good plants, while the slight check the plants will receive at this potting If carefully performed will not seriously injure them. My plants were potted during the last week in Janu- ary, and now, Feb. 9, they are growing well without confining the roots in small pots if the plants are kept well supplied with water. " Inquirer " thinks the time mentioned by me for " taking the buds " does not coincide with that of other growers. If he carefully reads The Garden, he will note that I stated that " taking the buds " was a source of great anxiety even to the most experienced cultivator, as sorts differ so much as to the time it takes them to expand. I have generally found that, for those re- quired to bloom about the middle of November, from the last week in August till the second week in Sep- tember is the best time to " take the buds," unless the season be very late and unfavourable, like the last. An earlier date for most varieties would cer- tainly, in my opinion, be too soon. There are a few sorts that require a little more time, such as the two mentioned by "Inquirer," viz., Boule d'Or and Meg Merrilies, also Golden Dragon, Mr. R. Brocklebank, and a very few others, Everyone is ^ware that the points of the main branches during the end of August, or it might be during the early part of Sep- tember. When the crown bud was removed, the lateral growths springing from the nodes below the bud so formed were thinned to four on each stem ; these in time formed other buds — terminals — pro- ducing the blooms in question. — E. M. CUT FLOWERS BOLDLY USED. Such great flowers as Tree Pa^onies seem to demand vigorous and very simple treatment. The engraving shows a few of the massive blooms of the old pink Moutanwith its own leaves, and a natural wreath or two of Clematis montana, very simply placed in a large glass tazza — a great bowl of pink and white flower beauty 2^ feet across ! 168 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. Kitchen Garden. TOO LENGTHY SEED LISTS. " W. I." in The Garden, Feb. H (p. 130), lias done well in calling attention to the present bewilderiug state of tlie vegetable seed lists, whicb are yearly becoming as great a nuisance as they are an absurdity, and the illustrations in many of them are simply ridiculous. A weeding- out process is, indeed, necessary. " W. I." asks. Who is to begin ? I think the best way of answering this ques- tion is to inquire, Who is most to blame for the existing state of things >. Surely it is not the seedsman, for one would naturally suppose that this much-abused person would only be too glad to be relieved from the necessity of growing, harvesting, cleaning, and labelling such a host of varieties as now figure in his lists. In the list of one firm this year I counted 100 sorts of Peas ; in that of another about 40 varieties of Lettuce and 20 of Radishes. These numbers cannot fail to strike one as altogether unneces- sary ; but if a demand did not exist, seedsmen would cease to keep in stock kinds which were seldom or never asked for. Exhibitions have done much to encourage the multiplication of varieties, especially those for which size is claimed as an improvement ; and from the importance given to the point that exhibitors will find them great acquisitions, one would be led to infer that the chief end of vege- table growing was for the exhibition in- stead of the dinner table. I readily admit the difficulty — unless special provision were made for it in the schedules— of exhibiting vegetables of the proper size and in the best comlition for cooking. Take French and runner Beans, for instance ; the size at which these are best ga- thered is when the pods are 3 inches or 4 inches long ; they should be cooked whole or simply cut in two, when the delicate flavour will be pre- served ; but to cook the long, flat pods which are honoured with the prizes at most shows, they would require to be cut into shreds, and in the process of cooking and straining all the flavour would be lost. Peas are preferred by the cook much smaller than are seen at exhibi- tiims. In the case of Onions, instead of giving the prizes to siilid round bulbs, they are usually awarded to flat, ugly things possessing neither quality nor keeping properties. No ; size is not of first importance, neither is it desiraWe in good vegetables ; but so long as it is acknow- ledged and honoured by the judges at exhibi- tions, so long will exhibitors produce it, and seedsmen in turn will eater for their wants. Gardeners and amateurs are, in a great measure, to blame for the maze of names we now have to wade through before the kinds wanted are discovered. If, instead of ordering every reputed novelty, they would rest con- tented with those which are known to be good until the new ones were proved to be superior, seedsmen would be more careful ^jf what w;i3 added to their lists. I do not counsel giving up trying new vege- tables altogether, as it is by this means we now and then obtain really sterling kinds, but what I advise is, adherence to kinds which are uni- versally acknowledged to be good until we nijike s\ire of something better to replace them. When a variety has been tried and found want- ing, discard it altogether. I have tried several of the large varieties of the Scarlet Runner Beau, but, in my iuion, none are so good as the old Scarlet, while amongst Bioad Beans, Beck's Green Gem is not surpassed by any of the monster podding .sorts for flavour. Wjieii it is taken into account that three rows of Bfck's Gem can be grown on the same space of ground as one of the monster sorts would oc- cupy, the difl'erence of produce is very little. , Of all the varieties of Onions which have been introduced of late years, few, it any, reach the standard of excellence of James's Keeping, and yet every year several kinds are added to the lists. This would not happen if less reliance were placed upon the extravagant descriptions given by those who introduce them. It is this indiscriminate ordering of these all so-called new varieties which so contributes to swell the already overburdened seed lists. — A. Bakker, Hindlip. That can hardly be, even though " W. I. M.' may say so, as we have never yet found, except during extraordinarily productive seasons, that vege- tables have been too plentiful. The dictum, how- ever, is intended rather to apply to number of va- rieties than to quantity of bulk ; but why too many sorts of vegetables only ? May not the same objec- tion be urged against everything else in gardening .' Is any raiser or seedsman to be prevented from placing before the public some really meritorious variety simply because there are so many others already in the field ? The variety will soon find its own place ; and whilst there may be a perplexing abundance for " W. I. M.," there are at least 150,000 persons who garden in this country, and on the whole the variety is not found too large for them. As evi- dence, let lists of the twelve best Peas or Potatoes be invited from different parts of the country, and it will be found that of twenty lists of each some 100 varieties would probably be mentioned. That fact shows that each variety has its admirers, and is in some district or other found to be the best No one is compelled to grow more than one, two, or three sorts of anv one vegetable, according to his requirements, whilst an iotelligent gardener will always exercise some judgment in testintc some new things for himself from time to time. It is easy to denounce inflated seed lists, but not a sort is cata- logued but someone asks for it, and it is no business of seedsmen to dictate to their customers what they shall purchase. They can only recommend what they think to be the best, and they do. The ex- pansion of varieties of things in every direction is the inevitable product of the popularity of garden- ing with us, and we should be thankful rather than otherwise that such is the case. — A. D. Fortyfold. Pea. — For general purposes there is no Pea, which is superior to this variety. It may be sowu to succeed the earliest varieties, and thus keep up a succession throughout the summer months and until the latest varieties come into use. Its qualities are so numerous, that had I only to grow one variety, Fortyfold would he the sort. I take out a trench 1 foot deep, place a layer of manure at the bottom, and sow the- seed tbiuly 4 inches deep. This Pea grows to a height of from 5 feet to 0 feet, and is of a sturdy habit of growth. — E. Molvneux. Transplanting Onions.— The mild weather that has lately prevailed has induced many to push this work on earlier than usual. There can be no doubt as to the advisability of getting it done early, for if the plants make but little top growth for some time to come, they are nevertheless becoming established at the root, and when warm weather sets in they make rapid progress. There are few crops that pay better for good, rich soil than autumn-sown Onions, as when they grow quickly and to a large size, they are milder in flavour and realise better prices. A good coating of the best manure is therefore worked into the soil, and the young plants are dibbled in about 1 foot apart each way. A good-sized hole is made, and the soil closed firmly around the plant with the dibber. As soon as growth commences, the toil is stirred up and a dressing of soot applied. The best varieties for autumn sowing are Giant Rocca and the Globe and Flat Tripoli, and for drawing green and tying in bunches for market early in spring the White Spanish is a great favourite, as it is mild in flavour and grows quickly. The seed is sown thickly in drills somewhat earlier than in the case of those intended for trani-plantirg, and as soon as large enough the plants ate pulled and tied in bunches for market. Durirg the present mild weather weeds must be carefully cleared off.— J. G., Hanis. THE TIME TO SOW SEEDS. After the seeds have been ordered and received, a very important question is, when should they be sown ? It is possible to be either too early or too late in getting them into the grotmd ; in a word, more judgment is required in the matter than is often exercised. More err in sowing too early than the other extreme, this being espe- cially the case when the weather in January and February is of an open character. Where the locality is naturally warm and the soil light and free-working, it may be advisable to sow early, but only in very few cases does any gain accrue from it. There being but little rainfall, no snow worth mentioning, and no long spell of frost, the ground in the majority of gardens will have been in excellent condition for seed sowing several times during the month of January. This no doubt has been taken advan- tage of, and Peas, Broad Beans, Spinach, Carrots, Radishes, and a few other seeds sown. Should the month of February prove mild and the rainfall light, the seeds may germinate evenly, and a good start be made. The chances are, however, that much rain will fall (at any rate it is to be hoped it will), for as yet the springs are unusually low, and in this case much of the seed will rot in the ground, the remainder not growing away freely. Nor does seed germinate readily during cold, dry weather, making no more progress than it would in the setd bag, where it had far better remain for some time longer. Even if seed sown very early does germinate properly, it is not often that the plants make much progress till the mouth of April is reached, and fre(juently the plants resulting from seed sown a month later will give better results. As a rule, the second week in February is quite soon enough to sow the round-seeded early Peas, such as Ringleader, Sangster's No. 1, Earliest of All, Dickson's First and Best, and Veitch's Selected Early, and AVilliam I. may safely be sown at the same time. American Wonder and Chelsea Gem being wrinkled- seeded are more liable to decay in the ground, especially if the seed is either badly ripened or old. When the first sowings are showing well through the ground, or say early in March, the time has arrived for sowing the wrinkled-seeded Telephone, Telegraph, Alpha, Advancer, or any favourite early or second early variety. I would not, however, attempt to fix an exact date for sowing these or any other seeds, as, rather than sow them when the ground is not in a fit condi- tion, I much prefer to wait another week or two, or till it is. Much also depends upon the locality, or whether naturally early or late. Broad Beans may be sown at the same time as Peas, the Early Longpod section being the first, and later on the more delicate broad-podded section may follow. With us seeds of these are liable to perish in the ground if sown too early. Not before the third week in April should any seed of dwarf, kidney, or French Beans be sown, and warm borders only are suitable for these early sowings. Runner Beans are still more delicate, and ought not to be sown before the first week in May, or otherwise many seeds will refuse to germinate, and even if a good plant is secured, either frosts or insect pests may quickly spoil whole rows. When Beet is sown early, or long before May, the young plants are liable to be injured Feb. 25, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 169 by frosts ; birds also prey on tliem, and those that escape are almost certain to form large coarse roots. Beet, to be really good, ought, when fully grown, to be nearer the size of Cairots than Mangold, and, as a rule, it is only by sowing late in April or the fir-t week in May that coarse growth can be avoided. The first time we tried Pragnell's Exhibition Beet we erred in sowing too soon, but since late sowing has been practised, a crop of clean hand- some roots of excellent quality has resulted. Crimsou Ball, a decided improvement on the old Egyptian or Turnip-rooted, if sown during the first week in April, will give an early supply of highly-coloured and tender Turnip-like roots, but even these, if left long in the ground, grow to a great size. The main crop Carrots, again, are frequently sown too early, and, as a consequence, the bulk of the roots are apt to become very coarse. Late in February or early in March seed of the Horn varieties may be sown on a warm light border, and, all going on well, should result in a very useful lot of roots beiug raised. If the seed is sown before the time just given it seldom sprouts till warm showery weather is experienced. Radish seed not being of much value, a sowing may be made on a warm border at the same time as early Carrots, but the later fortnightly sowings usually give the best returns. Salsafy and Scorzonera, if sown much before the end of April, are liable either to run to seed or to grow much too coarse, and I fail to see the force of growing such huge Parsnips as are often seen. Very often our seed of the latter is not sown till the end of March, and the roots are always quite large enough. The orthodox time for sowing is early in February, or as soon as the ground can be had in goodworkingcondition. Tosow Turnips on a sunny border early in March, under the impression that this is the surest way of securing plenty of good tarly roots, is very often only a waste of seed and labour. It sown about the third week in March on a well- enriched east border a profitable crop will usually result. At one time I used to sow Onion seed in Feb- ruary, or as early in March as the state of the ground permitted; but after taking note of the eflect of frosts on the tender young plants, I have arrived at the conclusion that it h wiser to defer sowing till the end of the month or the first week in April. The first week in May is early enou^jh to sow seed of Vegetable Marrows if the plants are not put out till June, th' se raised much earlier inevitably becoming badly stunted, ho also do Tomat;o plants if the seed is so*n before April. A breadth of early Potatoes may be planted on an early border towards the end of March, but the bulk of early varieties ought to be kept out of the ground till near the end of April. The late varieties ouyht to be the first planted, these seldom forming haulm early enough to be badly injured by spring frosts. Late and maiu-crop Broccoli, Kale, and Savoys are frequently sown too early, the plants b. ing tit for putting out a month or more before the ground is ready for them. If sturdy plants are needed, and these only ought to be planted, delay sowing the seed till the middle of April, and in warm localities the first week in May is quite soon enough to sow. Celery raised very early is apt to receive a check and run to seed prematurely. A pinch may be sown in February, but the second or third week in March is the best time for sowing seeds for the main crop, and for the very lattst supplies a month later answers well with us. W. Iqqulden. Potatoes and Broccoli. — Tlie Cvrnishman. ob- serves that Potato-planting in the more sheltered or (as the market gardeners cilt it) the rarer parts of Potato-growing land in the vicinity of Penzance has now become general, and in a few days much of the market garden land will present quite a bnsy scene in the removal of the remains of the Broccoli crop and the prompt tillage of its successor. Seed Potatoes have sprouted nicely, and are being placed in the soil in good condition. You must go back several seasons before you find so much destruction to Broccoli in West Cornwall by frost as within the last fortnight. That does not arise from severe cold, but from the fact that frosty nights (or rather morn- ings, for occasionally there was no frost until 5 a.m.) succeeded warm days. Alternate sunshine and mild rain induced the plants to open out ; the frost came, and, in truth, proved a nipping one. The outer and protecting leaves of the Broccoli have fallen and left the head completely exposed. While they are browned and shrivelled the edible part of the Broccoli is discoloured and decayed. Thousands of Broccoli have been destroyed. KITCHEN GARDEN NOTES. Eaely vegetables in rough frames.— In many gardens glazed frames are not available for forward- ing vegetable crops, and in some instances even sunny, sheltered borders cannot be found for a similar purpose. Both, however, may be dispensed with, and yet capital crops of either Potatoes, Carrots, Turnips, Lettuces, Cauliflowers, or Radishes be obtained with the aid of rough frames and shght hotbeds. The latter should be formed about 3 feet in depth, and of either leaves and stable manure in mixture or stable manure only, this being previously prepared in the usual manner. Timber or rough planks being obtainable, it is advisable to construct a frame somewhat after the model of the ordinary garden frames, setting this on the hotbed prior to soiling. Deep frames are most needed for the Po- tatoes, the haulm in this case requiring good pro- tection, which may be afforded either by Russian or home-made straw mats, thatched or felt-covered hurdles, or strips of old carpet. For the more hardy crops all that is needed is to drive a number of long, stout stakes round the sides of the hotbed. Inside these, boards from 9 inches to 12 inches in width may be fixed, these being necessary for enclosing the soil. The stakes, being 3 feet above the top of the bed, may be lightly braced together with other light stakes, and will then support the doubled or trebled folds of fish-netting overhead, thus both protecting the seeds from birds and plants from frosts. These beds are especially valuable for rais- ing early crops of Carrots and Radishes, and spaces may also be reserved f'^r frequent sowings of Mus- t.iird and Cre.ss. I have known instances wliere all the ear.iest L«-ttuce, Celery, and Cauliflower plants have been raised on these beds, all being sown together, the Lettuces and Cauliflowers being drawn and pricked out before the Celery plants wanted much space. In the rough frames. Kidney Beans and Ridge Cucumbers may be grown to suc- ceed Early Ashleaf Potatoes, while the other beds may be planted with Vegetable Marrows. jERnsALtM Artichokes.— Good crops of these may be had without much trouble. The whole of the crops should be carefully forked out of the ground, the requisite number of medium-sized tubers with unbroken central sprout being reserved for replant- ing, and the rest, after having the sprouts rubbed off them, stored in a heap, covered with soil or litter, and used as required. Being of tall, rank growth, these Artichokes ought, where possible, to be grown in an outside quarter, and if the ground is well manured there is no reason why they should not be kept in one place for several years in succession. On rich, fresh ground Artichokes are apt to produce too large and ugly tubers, which are not liked nearly so well as those about the size of a good Magnum Bonum Potato. If small sets are scarce, whole ones may be cut up and planted, one strong shoot being all that is required. The rows ought to be 3 feet apart and run from north to south, or some- what in that direction, or otherwise the front rows will get all the sunshine. Plant the sets with a dibber about I inches deep and 1 2 inches asunder. and lishtly mould up the plants when well above the ground. Formation or Rhubarb beds. — Old clumps frequently forced are soon greatly weakened, and in any case it is advisable to form new beds occasionally. The best time to plant is when the crowns are on the point of bur.-ting. Johnstone's St. Martin, also known as Myati's Linnieus, is an excellent early variety, Mitchell's Royal Albert and Early Scarlet also being early and good. Myatt's Victoria, a later variety, produces extra fine stalks, and I have frequently forced this variety with good results. All the foregoing can be bought in planting sizes, or old clumps may be lifted, freely split up, and replanted. The ground should be deeply trenched, an abundance of solid manure being mixed with each spit. For a permanent bed the rows ought to be fully 3 feet apart, the same space being allowed from plant to plant. If it is intended to lift and force the roots when large enough for the purpose they may be planted 2 feet apart in the rows. In planting, the crown only should peep through the soil, which should be firmly packed about them and a mulching of strawy manure at once be given. Not a leaf-stalk ought to be removed during the first season's growth, and, unless extra strong, the plants should be only lightly drawn from the following season. Rhubarb from seed. — A large stock of plants may be quickly raised from seed, the only draw- back being the uncertainty of the varieties sown coming true to name. It is quite possible to raise a batch of seedUngs this year and force them next winter, but the seed must be sown at once in pans or boxes of fine soil, and set on a gentle hot-bed. When the seedlings are of good size they may be either pricked out thinly in shallow boxes filled with good soil, or, better still, be potted ofE singly into 5-inch pots. Having been kept in gentle heat till strong and well rooted, they may be hardened off and finally planted out some time in May. If the aim is to grow the plants large enough for forcing at once, give them a sheltered position and freely manured well-worked soil, putting them 2 feet apart each way. In dry weather they will need an occa- sional good soaking of water, also a surface mulch- ing of strawy manure, this serving to enclose the much needed moisture at t he roots. Seed luay al.-'O be sown in the open ground, an east or west border being a suitable site ; the drills to be drawn 18 inches apart and 2 inches deep, and the seed seed sown thinly ; or, if preferred, broadcast sowing may be resorted to, the seed being covered with sifted soil. In this manner a number of strong plants will be ob'ained, these being suitable for transplanting the tollowii.g spring Tne first week in April is soon enough for open-air sowing. Manuring established Rhubarb. — When kept well supplied with both solid and liquid manure.a plantation of Rhubarb will rt main in a pro- fitable condition for six years and upwards. Now is the time to apply it. First remove the surface soil down to the roots, then give a liberal dressing of half-rotten manure and return the soil on to this. In this manner none of the manure is wasted and the roots soon take possession of it. Manure being scarce, loo-en the ground about the clumps and apply liquid manure or sewage freely. This may be done now and again when the plants are in lull leaf. Celeriac, or Turnip-rooted Celery. — It is rather suiprising that so little of this excellent vegetable is grown. The roots are much liked in some places for fiavouring soups, or for slicing up into salads, and occasionally they are in demand as a vegetable. A pinch of seed may be sown in a pan and set in a warm frame or house to germi- nate. When large enough to handle, prick off and otherwise treat similarly to the ordinary Celery. Instead, however, of planting in trenches they must be grown on the surface of well-manured ground, in rows 18 inches apart, and 12 inches apart in the row each way. During the summer they will need occasional supplies of water, and should have all side shoots removed, this inducing the growth of large bulbs or roots, which only are used. The roots may eventually be lifted and stored similarly 170 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. to those of Turnips, or they may be left where grown and protected from severe frosts. Herb bobdbr. — Herbs are generally grown on one of the wall borders, a western aspect being preferred. No doubt they are very convenient in such positions, but many of them being undisturbed on the ground for several years greatly exhaust the border, the more valuable fruit trees suffering in consequence. If no better place can be found for those permanently planted, they ought at any rate to be occasionally lifted, divided, and after the ground has been heavily manured, fresh soil being also added, replanted. Fewer herbs appear to satisfy cooks than formerly, but it usually happens if any one kind is unavailable, that will be the oftenest asked for. Tarragon is largely used in salads, and it is advisable to grow a good bed of it. It may now be freely divided and replanted in rows 12 inches apart, or it may be spread thinly over the bed, covered with 2 inches of good light soil and mulched with rotten manure. Mint requires the same treatment, this also being much in demand. Place some of the roots in shallow boxes and for- ward in heat, so as to have it early. Common and Lemon Thyme must also be grown. I prefer to propagate this by seed, sowing it late in March in drills 6 inches apart, thinning out and transplanting when the seedlings are large enough to handle. It may also be increased by cuttings in the autumn and by division at the present time. A warm position suits Thyme, and the soil ought not to be poor. Pennyroyal will grow in any cool position, and may be readily increased by division. Sage, which is always wanted, I usually raise from seed, this being sown in March in a shallow box fiUed with fine soil, and it soon germi- nates in gentle heat. The seed will also frequently germinate when sown on a warm border, the seed' lings in either case being eventually planted on good ground 1 5 inches apart each way. Sage may also be raised from cuttings of the young tops taken off in May and rooted under a hand-light. Bushy old plants may be split up and replanted. All are apt to flower freely, but this ought always to be prevented. Winter Savory may be raised from seed, sowing this on a warm border early in April, but the simplest plan is to divide the old plants and replant in rows 1 foot apart. The summer Savory must be raised annually, the seed being sown on a warm border in drills 9 inches apart, and the seed- lings eventually thinned to about 6 inches asunder. Pot Marjoram can also be similarly raised from seed, and those who have old plants may lift, divide and replant these in fresh soil. Sweet Marjoram has to be treated as an annual, the seed being sown on a warm border early in April in drills 9 inches apart, and the seedlings lightly thinned out. In cold dis- tricts it is advisable to raise the seedlings in gentle heat, transplanting to a warm border early in June. Borage is often asked for, and this may easily be raised from seed. It is of strong growth, and the rows ought to be 15 inches apart, the same space being allowed between the plants. Seeds may be sown in March and again in May and July, a suc- cession of plants being thus secured. If Sweet and Bush Basil are required, these must be raised from seeds sown now in gentle heat, and finally trans- planted to a sheltered border in June. Plant in rows 9 inches apart and fj inches asunder. Fennel is raised from seed, the old plants remaining service- able for several years. Sow the seed any time in March in drills 15 inches apart, and freely thin out the seedlings, transplanting some if necessary to about 1 foot apart. W. I. M. ordinary conditions — are mostly very firm, and will keep sound certainly till the end of April if needed. One very naturally wonders why prizes should be offered for the encouragement of such huge and worthless bulbs. Even if employed for domestic purposes they lead to waste, as the whole of such large bulbs as those weighing from 16 ozs. to 20 ozs. are rarely required, and what is not at once employed is thrown away. Even if so grown for the production of seed stocks the result is not good, because these bulbs never produce such robust stems or any better strain than do very solid, well-kept 6-oz. bulbs. No doubt, with a view to satisfy the requirements of vegetable judges, seed is being sown already in boxes under glass for the production of these monstrosities. If prizes were offered in March for the best kept Onions, very few of these large bulbs would be forthcoming. — A. D. made in favour of sand and water as a medium in which to root soft-wooded cuttings, but wet Moss is, I believe, a more certain and reliable material. Roots formed in water often rot away when placed in cold, wet soil, but Moss-rooted cuttings are much more likely to succeed, there being less disparity in the density and moisture of the rooting medium. Those amateurs who are on the constant outlook for royal roads in floriculture may rest fully assured that fertilising Moss is not one whit better as a rooting medium for plants than is the common green Moss of the woods. Veeonica. Garden Flora. Large Oniona.— Although big Onion bulbs make an imposing appearance on the show table, they are of poor value as winter keepers, the forcing method of culture adopted tending to create what are little better than reservoirs of water with skins on. Some of these huge bulbs of one of the most famous of exhibition Onions were given to me early in the winter. I have endeavoured to preserve them, but one - half are already rotten, whilst the others are fast starting into growth. Bulbs of other, and even of the same kind— one-third to one-half the size grown under THE FERTILISING MOSS DELUSION. For the last fifty years at least there have been periodical revivals of this material as a substitute for soil or loam in the cultivation of plants. During aU that period, I do not suppose one really practical gardener in a thousand has ever been led to substi- tute this just now much-lauded material for soU. So far as I know, no chemist has ever tested or recommended fertilising Moss, and it is not my intention to say one word against it ; but at the same time I may here point out that, after having tried several samples of fertilising Moss as purchased by me in the open market, I find it useful and conve- nient for certain purposes in plant culture. But I can say more. After having tried an equal bulk of ordinary wood Moss — that is to say, two or three of the most common kinds of Hypnum — I find it fully equal to the fertilising Moss of the shops. In a word, while acknowledging the conveniency and usefulness of the trade article, I have obtained pre- cisely the same results from the wild wood Moss which many, if not most people can have for the gathering. I have for years used common wood Moss for covering the soil in pots containing plants used for the decoration of dry, warm, gas-lighted rooms, and with the best results, as not only does the Moss prevent evaporation, but it exhales mois- ture, and so to a certain extent counteracts the aridity of fire-heated and gas-lighted apartments. As I have said, no professional gardener would for a moment give up sound fibrous loam and try to grow his plants permanently in fertilising Moss. But there are always people of the amateur class who, knowing but little of the principles or the practice of plant growth, will, like the proverbial drowning'man, catch at all the floating straws and other debris which promise to float them out of their plant-growing difliculties. Against their purchase and utilisation of fertilising Moss I have nothing to say ; they can please themselves in the matter, but I have fairly proved by direct ex- periment that common green wood Moss is equally efficient, and under some conditions of culture even more so. Soft-wooded plants generally delight in wood Moss, and their roots ramify into it in all directions, especially in warm plant houses. The Moss should be pressed tightly into the pots, and as the plants root freely through the Moss a little weak manure water may be applied with advantage. Cow manure and soot in a bag sunk in a barrel or soft- water tank will yield a good quality of this "fer- tiliser." Nearly all bulbs, such as Hyacinths, Nar- cissi, &c., do well under common Moss and manure- water treatment, and it is especially convenient to use in the filling of temporary flower stands, window boxes, and jardinieres of various kinds. It is not better than good potting soil, but it is lighter, and so in this way often more convenient for such temporary uses. Cuttings of nearly all kinds of plants root very quickly in a layer of wood Moss if it is laid on any moderately heated surface and kept constantly moist. Even Nepenthes root freely if the base of the shoot or cutting be placed through the hole in an inverted flower-pot filled with Hypnum Moss and placed on a gentle bottom-heat in a close case or frame. Some years ago there was a great outcry PLATE 637. THE GOLDEN VINE. (stigma PHYLLON CILIATDM.*) This genus, an account of which appears to have been first published by Auguste St. Hilaiie in the "Flora Brasiliana," belongs to the much- neglected Order Malpighiaceje, and is nearly related to Banisteria, a family which contains numerous shrubs and climbers which were for- merly grown for their pretty flowers and hand- some foliage, but which in some unaccountable manner have been allowed to go out of cultiva- tion. Stigmaphyllon, or Stigmatophyllon, de- rives its name from the leafy nature of the stigma. The genus contains abovit fifty species, most of them being lofty climbers, found in Brazil and various parts of the West Indies, where they interlace and festoon the stems and branches of the forest trees. Only very few species have been introduced to our gardens. S. ciliatum, the subject of this week's plate, is amongst the most beautiful of the genus, and is by no means a new introduction, having been cultivated for many years. One authority says it was introduced in 1796, and another in 1840, but whichever may be correct, it should be more extensively gro'mi, for, notwithstanding its great beauty, one seldom meets with it in a private garden. Some years ago a very fine example of this plant was to be seen in the Botanic Gardens at Kew covering a large portion of the back wall of a stove which stood at the back of the old museum, a house which contained in its time a very extensive collection of Acanthads, and also specimen Browneas, Napoleonas, and many other rare plants, includitjg the famous Pal i, Stevensonia grandifolia. The Stigmaphyllon 1 . many months rendered the house very gay with its numerous rich yellow trusses of bloom. A fine example of this plant now adorns the ~ u house at Kew, and it is to be hoped thr j merits of this species will be more fully u^^. .- stood and appreciated than has hitherto been the case. S. cUiatum is a lofty climber, growing vigorously, although its shouts are somewhat .slender ; the leaves are opposite and heart-;, ".taped, smooth, except the edges, which are fringed with numerous hairs ; colour pale green, suffused with a glaucous hue. The flowers are produced in umbels of from three to six, springing from the axils of the leaves ; the petals are clawed, fringed on the edges, and rich yellow in colour, and at a first glance remind one of the flowers of On- cidiuni bicallosum. The cultivation of this plant is extremely simple, requiring to be potted in a mixture of about two parts loam, one part peat, and one of sand. These should be well incorporated and the plant firmly potted. The pots should be well drained, as the plant enjoys a copious supply of water both to its roots and overhead from • Drawn for The Garden at Mrs. Joad's, Patch- ing, Worthing, by Misa Lowe, and printed by G. Severeyns. THE GARDEN DEN VINEtSTIGMAPHYLLON CTLIATUM) Feb. 25, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 171 the syringe. If the syringing is neglected the plant will soon fall a victim to the attacks of red spider, which, on account of the thin nature of the leaves, soon destroy them and cause them to fall otF, to the great disfigurement of the plSnt. It thrives best in an intermediate tem- perature, and when planted out in a border in the stove it produces a finer effect than when treated as a pot plant. W. H. G. Fruit Garden. MULCHING NEWLY-PLANTED FRUIT TREES. The prevailing practice when planting fruit trees is to finish off by mulching the surface of the soil over the roots with 6 inches of half- rotted manure. I do not intend condemning the practice altogether, as no doubt on light and poor soUs it is beneficial to the trees, but in many instances I am of opinion it is un- necessary and, moreover, harmful. The condition of the soil during the greaterpart of our English winters is wet and cold, although such is not the case this year up to the present time, but in the majority of our winters we may count upon more wet in the form of cold rain and snow than is good for newly-planted fruit trees. For these reasons trees which are moved in the autumn, so soon as the wood and leaves are ripe enough to allow of the opera- tion being performed with safety, have con- siderable advantages over those which are planted later on, as root-action commences immediately, owing to the somewhat high temperature of the ground and its moderately moist condition. Although the summer warmth cannot be retained for any length of time, we can guard against the newly-moved soil be- coming saturated by avoiding the use of any material likely to retain superfluous moistiire about the roots. Hence my objection to half- rotted manure, as in this condition it absorbs all the rain and snow, and forms an ettectual barrier to the sun's rays at a time when warmth is needed to promote new growth at the roots. Valuable time is thus lost, and the trees suffer injury in consequence. As a cover- ing to protect the roots from frost, such a thick- ness of manure is not necessary, for if covered with soil no injury to them need be feared. I should not think of covering the roots of established trees for the purpose of protection, however near to the surface they might be, and those of newly-planted trees are not more tender. It is when the roots are frozen and thawed above ground that injury results. A covering of some light material, such as spent tan, half-decayed leaves, or burnt refuse, is preferable to halt- rotted manure, for while the former allows a free passage to rain, it also counteracts the in- fluence of drying winds. Planting fruit trees, considering the permanent nature of the work, is too often carried out iu a rough-and-ready manner, the result being that the trees have a hard struggle for existence, often merely put- ting forth a few small leaves at the commence- ment of the growing season, and remaining stationary during the remainder of the summer. Valuable time, which might be avoided if closer attention were paid to the nature and require- ments of the trees, is thus lost. A season may often be gained by root-prun- ing a tree and deferring transplanting until the succeeding autumn. During the interval a quantity of fibrous roots will be produced, and the growth of the shoots wUl also be of a mode- rate and firm nature. Trees in this condition may be safely transplanted while as yet the leaves are green so soon as the shorter days and cool nights of autumn set in ; and if the opera- tion is performed with due care, the trees will scarcely bear evidence of having been moved. The roots of young trees which arrive from a distance and are bare of soil will often be found in a dry state. The first thing after unpacking should be to imaierse such trees in water for a time, afterwards burying them in some light soil from which they can be easily removed. Before planting, which should take place as soon as possible, the roots should be dipped in a thick puddle, made with soil and cow manure, and when placed in the positions prepared for them, they should be planted in a mixture of tine loam and burnt refuse before returning the ordinary soil. Personal superintendence of the work will ensure its being more efficiently done, and a familiar acquaintance with the trees from the commencement is desirable if real interest is taken in their culture. Attention to details like the foregoing will often make all the difference between success and failure. A. Barker. Hindlip. Keinette Grise Apple. — Mr. Barker sends us the above. It is a pleasure to touch its skin, firm as marble compared with the many Apples that at this season are soft, yellow, and also mawkish to the taste. When cut the Reinette Grise has the fresh and pleasant smell of a good Apple in autumn. Eaten raw, it has a distinct, high, and pleasant acid flavour, not quite so sweet as the best eating Apples, but this would make it none the less valued by many people. Stewed in a stone pipkin, without sugar or other addition , on Feb. 20, it had a brisk, good flavour. It will probably be one of our standard kinds. Apples for cooking^. — It is too bad of Mr. Fish to malign all the cooks of the United Kingdom because the paste of his Apple tarts is bad. My housekeeper says : " An Apple, to be good when cooked, must be sweetened artificially. The acid of the Apple must be tasted through the sweetness. The flavour of a naturally sweet Apple is only mawkish. Anyone who says the contrary must be a very young beginner indeed." She says also that cooking Apples are larger than eating Apples, and are consequently peeled and prepared with less loss. To the economical argument, that Apples should provide their own sugar, she says — "Fudge! I bought moist sugar, fit for any household purpose, daring the whole of last year, for eighteenpence a dozen lbs. It is now a little dearer, but not more than twentypence. That argument is quite out of date." I can myself answer for this, that cooking Apple trees produce a much greater weight of fruit than those of eating Apples ; so, putting all these reasons together, nurserymen are not to be blamed tor making a distinction, leaving the buyer to please his own taste. — Philomelos. *^* As we are so tar off, we venture to say that some eating Apples — good also to cook — are large — i e., Blenheim, Newtown, and Northern Spy. It is not to be supposed that our raisers, when the true idea is before them, will not be able to get Apples good in size as in other ways. The Ribston is quite big enough to cook. When " Philomelos " and his housekeeper have taken the trouble to cook with care the finest eating Apples, we shall be glad to hear from him. It is not the price of sugar that is the objection, but that no extracted sugar is so good as that found in the fruit itself it of the best quality. We have repeatedly cooked Apples sup- posed to be useful for dessert only, and found them excellent without any addition. There is not a word in this letter to show that the writer has tried the five Apples cooked, and none is so sure of a question as he who knows only one side of it. — Ed. Wanted, a Gooseberry. — Last autumn, in answer to several requests, there was given in The Garden a select list of the most desirable Goose- berries of good flavour, the highest praise being given to a green kind named Rosebery. Wishing to grow the bgst kinds, I took pains to ascertain m which nurseries I should be most likely to find them, and was advised to write to two first-rate northern firms. The first of these supplied fourteen out of the twenty sorts asked for, but neither of them knew anything about Rosebery, or the remaining five strongly commended. I have by me the catalogues of six or seven leading fruit houses in the southern counties, but in none does the wished-for Rosebery appear. I appeal to The Garden and its corres- pondents, to whom I owe many a good turn, to do me another, and disclose the hiding-place of the much-desired Gooseberry, and of the other good kinds that do not appear in the trade lists. The names of those wanted are Rosebery, Green Globe, Starling, Topgallant, Porcupine and Sir J. B. Warren. — G. J. PEAR MARIE LOUISE. Unlike Winter Nelis, this fine Pear appeals almost as strongly to the eye as the palate, and satisfies both. The fruit is large, pytiform, the ground colour pale green, almost melting into yellow as it ripens, pricked out with lines, streaks, and, less fre quently, patches of russet. The flesh is white, tender, soft, and melting, with a rich vinous flavour. The Pear is also a good keeper, lasting with careful storage through the months of October and November, and sometimes anticipating or over- reaching these dates according to soils, seasons, sites, size, and form of the trees, and other con- ditions. The tree grafted either on the Pear or the Quince succeeds almost equally well on walls, palings, espaliers, or in the form of espaliers, bushes, or orchard trees in the open. While all this is true, it should be added that the finest samples of Marie Louise ever seen or tasted by me were from horizontal trees on walls and natural standards on lawns or orchards. One more characteristic that the Marie Louise has> in common with a few other Pears — the Jargonelle, for example— is that the older the tree the more fruitful it is. It is very important to bear this in mind in this age ot cordons, bushes, and small pyramids. Though the Marie Louise may submit to be thus cribbed, cabined, and confined, yet to see it at its best and in fullest fertility, it must have its liead and be allowed to grow well-nigh as it likes in the open, or run far and wide, horizontal or fan- shaped, on walls. This fine Pear also fruits most freely and perfectly on the Pear stock ; besides, the natural stock favours its longevity— a point of great moment in this connection if wider experience con- firms the fact that advancing years heighten the fertility of Marie Louise. This is the more important, as the one fault brought against Marie Louise is its inconstant crop- ping. With small-sized young trees this must be admitted ; but it is not equally, nor at all true that old, well-established trees, left almost wholly to themselves after they having once begun to bear, do so every year. Barring the accidents ot spring frosts, bird wreckage, or other Pear-destroying-in- the-bud or blossom contingencies, it is proved, by a wide experience of its erratic fruiting, that the Marie Louise is very liable to such or other dis- asters, in a young and small state especially. Addi- tional proof of this is furnished by the tact that it seldom fails to flower with sufficient freedom to ensure a fair crop. But the promise is made to the eye and not kept to the palate. In other cases, however, and especially in certain districts, the Marie Louise tails to bloom freely every year. In not a tew ot these the fault lies as much or more iu the treatment than in the age of the trees, the site, soil, or climate. The fruit spurs of this fine Pear are ot excep- tional form and length, thus exposing them to the risk of being cut off by the close pruner. When this happens, of course fruit is impossible. Others attribute the failure of the Marie Louise to fruit freely to its superabundant blossoming. They reason thus : that being so many, neither pistils nor pollen are perfected in any, and hence there can be no fruit. If this be so, the knife or scissors on the blossoms ipould prove the shortest cut to 172 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. fertilitv ; and some affirm that it is. It may be ; still we have the fact of the very high fertility ot larse orchard and lawn standards that have never had their blossoms thinned by artificial means. A caution needs to be given against growing the Marie Louise on south walls; the fruit from such sunny sites is apt to prove so sweet as to be almost insipid contraned with the finer-flavoured fruits from west, south-west, north-west, south-east, north- east, or east walls; espaliers, pyramids, bushes, and orchard standards and dwarfs in the open. Finally, the fruit from the walls are superior to others in size, and even in colour, as a rule, but the others are mostly far superior in flavour. In the case of the Marie Louise, the fruits from all sorts, ages, and conditions of trees are sufficiently large and handsome to obtain and sustain a firm hold on the market. Consequently, it need hardly be added, that in districts and under conditions that ensure fair crops the Marie Louise is not only one of the best Pears for home consumption, but also one of the most profitable for marketing. D. T. F. more generally useful variety. But there is one point I should greatly like to have cleared up in your history of the Jargonelle, viz., why is it so superior in certain districts in the north, say_, for example, in Perthshire, in Scotland, to what it is in England generally ? D. T. F. THE JARGONELLE PEAR. That the Jargonelle is good when in season no one will dispute. But then its season of per- fection is so brief, that some have held it seldom extends beyond a day, though the authorities (rlaim for it the month of August. The owner of the finest tree I ever knew of the Jargonelle— it grew near Perth, in Scotland— used to say that a Jargonelle stored was a good Pear spoilt. Hence, he used to resort with his friends to a seat at the bottom of the tree and gather and eat the fruits as they ripened day after day. Remonstrated with for allowing the wasps to puncture so many of the finest fruits, he said, " Wei), they deserve all they have for leading the way to tho=e of the richest quality. I never jet was deceived by following their lead, and, as anyhow you cannot keep the quality in Jargonelles after they are ripe, the tastings of the wasps do little harm." This is all very well for those who preferred to eat their Pears off the trees, butit would never do for gardeners who are expected to place sound fruit on the table, and. to en.'-ure this mechanical perfection, are often tempted to gather such perishable fruits as Jargonelles before they are quite ripe. Now, it was the opinion of this old expert in Jargonelles— for he ate of the fruit of that tree for over eis^hty years— that Jargo- nelles gathered before they were quite ripe never did arrive at perfection. Nothing was more common with this connoisseur in J^irgonelles than to reject faulty fruit with the simple and, to him, sufficient remark, " Ah, a day too late ; would have been prime yesterday." Further experience, which, however, has been confined to the Jargonelle on walls, only con- firms the soundness of those early verdicts. It may readily be granted that few Pears exceed it in the juiciness, sweetness, and tenderness of its soft yellowish white flesh, its delicacy of aroma, and mild vinous flavour. But as these are so evanescent at the best, and are by no means con- stant qualities, one must pause before very strongly or seriously recommf-nding the Jargonelle either for pleasure or profit. The pleasure indeed of eating this Pear when perfect may readily be admitted. But what about the disappointment of eating it too soon and attempting to enjoy it too late, with its flesh flat and musty, and its core rotted through? For marketing this Pear is virtually useless, unless, indeed, the market could be held under the trees, af terth'e manner adopted at times in Cherry orchards. In private gardens a tree, or rather a branch, of the Jargonelle is always welcome. And this reminds me of a eood old practice that seems to have gone out of fashion, partially, no doubt, through the in- troduction of the cordon system, viz , the grafting of the branches of good-sized horizontal or fan-trained Pear trees with many varieties. By this simple plan some supplied their table almost all the year round from one root stock. On the whole. I agree with Mr. Wildsmith, that Williams' Bon Chretien, though it has faults some- what akin to the Jargonelle, is a far better and Double grafting the Jargonelle Tear.— The late Mr. Thomas Rivers, whe was one of the tirst of cultivators to bring the Quince stock into popularity in England, recommended "double grafting" lu the case of Jargonelle, Marie Louise, and other sorts ot Pears which are apt to bulge, or overrule the Quince stock when budded or grafted upon it directly. The following varieties of Pears all take kindly to the Quince stock, viz., Cure or Belle de Berry, the Jami- nette, Beurre d'Amanlis, and Sucre Vert. By using each or any of these as intermediate stocks on the Quince, those Pears which, like the Jargonelle, do not grow freely it worked upon it directly assume a rapid and more vigorous growth. One of the_ best of Quinces as a stock for Pears is La Quintaine.- P. W. BURBIDGE. Double-grafted Pears.— More than one writer on Pears has deprecated Marie Louise, even on the Quince stock. A few trees double worked, the first scion having been of some strong-growing kind, which are growing here, bush-trained, do remark- ably well, and produce capital fruits. On the other hand, similar double-worked trees planted against a west wall as single cordons are not a succesS; as the trees throw such strong growth. In the latter case it is evident that on our soil and as wall cor- dons, single grafting on the Quince would have suf- ficed and proved successful. The cordon trees, if left to grow, will do so as vigorously as if worked on the Pear stock. I infer that the practice of double working on to the Quince would be productive of great good to many of our choicest Pears if planted as bush or pyramid trees. It is a matter for experi- ment. Beurre d'Amanlis is such a generally robust grower and invariably thrives so well, that it seems to be about the best kind to utilise for the first grafting. It would be interesting to learn how far nurserymen have adopted the practice of double working" In reference to Apples. Mr. Crump intimates his intention to test the practice with reference to certain kinds, and his experiment may be perhaps followed by others. Some of the best flavoured Apples are of comparatively weak growth — Margil, Downton Pippin, Cockle Pippin, &c , and would, doubtless, be greatly improved in urowth, and size, and quality of fruit if double worked. We have much to learn yet in relation to fruit culture.— A. D. SHORT NOTES.— FRUIT. Applo BePBpool in Kldai-e.— I send you six speci- mers of Besspool. It has four veiy go< d p ints viz. : 1, ^nod keeper; 2. oiii»mental; », cooking; 4, dessert; and also grows It- own bugar.— F. Belkord. Easter Beurre.— Some of our readers believe in this. Will anyone in Britain send me a good Easter Beurre now ? — W. 1! Beurre Superfin, sent to us by a good grower in Worcester, is sickly in flavour— not wor'h a place among good Pears in Britain. It is not large, or in any way high class. Beurre Ranee comes to us from one of our readers in the west a good grower. It is gritty, watery, medicinal ! Could only please those who never tasted a good Pear. Pear Jersey Gratioli.— In The GABnKN, Feb- ruary U (p. 121) A. Barker praises the Jersey Gratioli. It is here always gritty and second-rate. We discarded it some years ago. I have tasted it remarkably nice stewed in halves. In this cooked form it has a distinct smack of flavour.— Gko. BuNVAim. Scale on Apple trees.— I have sout some twigs of an Apple tree which is much injured by a small kind of scale. I have tried Gishurst compound, hut that does not seem to produce much ellect. Will paraffii. be roidly effectual ?— H. M. RocERS. *»* In reply to II. M. Rogers, the inseots on your Apple twigs are the mussel scale (Mytilaspispomorum). Paint the affected parts with a wash of quicklime about as thick as thin paint, add a quarter of a pound of soft soap to every gallon; or scrub them with half a pound of soft soap, quarterof a pound flowers of sulphur to one gallon of water, or half a pound soft soap, three wineglassfuls of paraffin oil, and on" gallon of boiling water ; use when cold, and keep well stirred.— G. S. S. PACKING APPLES FOR EXPORTATION. As the season of picking and packing Apples is about over, and growers have now time to think about their several experiences in the different me- thods of packing fruit, I think it a good time for an interchange of thought on the subject. I will give you my ideas and methods which are based on the experience of many years of active practical life in the orchard, and I hope that what I shall write may induce some others to take up the subject and give their methods and experience, so that we may finally get the best and most econo- mical method of placing our Apple crop m the market. I start with the idea that frnit should be handled as carefully and as little as possible, and so packed that it cannot move until it is taken out for consumption. To this end we must be pro- vided with proper tools, viz., baskets, ladders, and sorting table, also packages and packing material. Baskets of light Ash or Oak splits with swinging bails, holding about half a bushel, are best, and should be lioed with blanket or other thick woollen material, and have a hook made of 5 16-inch iron tied securely to the bail to hang it to a branoh_ or the round of the ladder when the fruit is being gathered. Laddees are made of light Spruce poles cut at midsummer, peeled and bored for the bottom rounds with an inch bit, the middle seven-eighths-inch and the upper three-quarter-inch, then ripped in two and seasoned under cover. Rounds are made of seasoned white Maple, lower one 2i feet, upper S inches ; the sides are brought together above the upper round and secured with two or three clinch nails. They are made of different lengths, and are very light and strong. SoETiNU TABLE —This is made ot half-inch Pine on a light frame well braced ; it is about 3^ feet by 7 feet with a 4-inch rim around the edge; ihc legs at one end are short and attached to a long-ax'ed wheelbarrow wheel. The others are well spread at the bottom to make the table steady, a pair of handles provided to move it by, and a common coarse grey blanket is spread on the table when an use. PACKAGE.— We always use the barrel, and get the best made, neatest, and tightest dry barrel in the market, of full flour size. We try to lay these in e^rly, so that at odd times we may prepare them for use bv nailing on the bilge hoops, railing in the heads and taking out the bottom.^, but leaving them in the barrel. We aUo lay in a stock of good white or manilla paper cut in sheets IS inches square (round would be better), and a lot of excelsior shavings, finest grade. On commencing to pick, the sorting table is wheeled near, but not under the tree, the blanket spread on it and a bit of board or plank laid on the ground alongside to stand the barrels on. As the baskets are filled they are carefully emptied on the table, and the packer after placing a thin layer of excelsior in the barrel puts a sheet of paper over if, and then "faces" the barrel by laying the first layer of Apples, stem down, until the layer is full then filling the barrel with the same grade directly from the table, occasionally giving the barrel a gentle shake to settle the fruit into place, and when full the bottom is slipped in without pressure, wrong side out, name and quality written on it with a lumber pencil. Three grades or sizes of fruit are usually made, called extra, choice, and medium, and all Apples that fall on the ground either before or during picking are put into barrels by themselves, and set away for future examination, as they cannot be depended on for keeping. When the barrels are filled they are taken to the fruit room and stored on end, head down as filled, until wanted for market, when the bottom is taken out, the barrel filled as full as we think safe, a cushioned head is then laid on, and a man seizing Feb. 25, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 173 the chime by both hands and laying his fore arms on the head, rocks the barrel backwards and for- wards on the floor to shake the Apples into place and fill any shrinkage that may have occurred; then a sheet of paper is laid on the fruit and excelsior is spread on ; the bottom is pressed in (right side np this time) and securely nailed. The barrel is now turned over, and having beun stcncilU'd with the name and quality of the fruit and the grower's name and address, is ready for shipment. We use escelsior on the ends, both as a protec- tion against bruising and as a material that will absorb the moisture exhaled by the fruit and swell, 80 as in a measure to fill the shrinking and keep the package full. It is clean and sweet and does not heat or develop blue mould as chaff or straw is liable to do, while the quantity used is so small that practically it makes no difference in the weight of fruit in the barrel. Experience has taught us to distrust the keeping qualities of any Apples that have lain on the ground o\er night|; consequently they are kept apart, and usually put uji for local markets as a separate grade. Oar principal market is London, and the freight and other expenses are from 5s. to 5s. 6d. per barrel, and we find that a very few spotted Apples in a barrel or a slight slackness,'"as it is called (when the fruit is found to move in the package when shaken), will reduce the price from 20 to 50 per cent. This being the case, the importance of this snbj>>ct can be easily estimated. — R. W. S , in Count nj Gif>itlema?i. MEDLAR JELLY. I WAS somewhat surprised to find that the Medlar jelly exhibited by Mr. Rivers at South Kensington lacked con>istency. Mr. Rivers' recipe tor making it seems almost identical with that given by me in my second volume of " Hardy Fruit," page 134, and also practised here for more than twenty years, and which resulted in a jelly almost as firm as cheese. Of course, a good deal depends on the length of time of boiling, and possibly some- thing also on the size of the Medlars. From the description given of Mr. Rivers' Medlar, it seems in- termediate in size between the Dutch and the Nottingham. Our jelly, proverbial for its stiS'ness as well as its good quality, was made from the Nottingham variety. As I quite agree in Mr. Rivers' estimate of the high quality of the jelly, and consider the Medlar is well worthy of more ex- tensive cultivation alike for its jelly, its fruit for dessert, and its unique and ornamental character as a low tree in our landscapes, it may be useful to repeat this recipe for Medlar jelly in full : — Medlar jelly is probably the very finest made. Those who know both well mostly prefer it to Guava jelly, aud the latter holds the tirst place among disorimiuat- iug aud fastidious counoiPseurs. It may be made very much in the same way as Apple jelly, either with or without the core and rind. The best, however, is that made without either rind or seeds, though the latter from their medicinal properties are supposed by some to give a certain merit to the jelly. Peel oif the very thin rind, and remove the seeds either by quartering or otherwise. Place the fruit in a pan and boil gently till quite soft — say half an hour. Leave till cool, and strain carefully through a jelly hag. To each pint of the syrupy juice add a pound of fine sugar and boil for an hour, or until it is reduced to sutKcient thickness to set well, uearly all the water having been boiled out of it. Some add other flavouring, but the best way is to add nothing whatever, and this brings out the peculiar flavour of the Medlars. The fruit is also sometimes strained a second time. Medlar jelly made thus will keep for any length of time, and improve by keeping. The Medlars should hardly be so ripe for jelly as for eating, though great mistakes have been made in at- tempting to make Medlar jelly of green hard fruit. Such j*-lly is quite inferior, aud in fact worthless, com- pared to that made from ripe fruit. D. T. F. Damsons and Buliaces. — Although these useful fruits are very largely grown in some locali- ties, they are totally neglected in others, and I feel sure that many private gardeners would find them a great assistance in keeping up the supply of fresh home-grown fritit as late as possible in the season. They come in just at a useful period when the supply of fruit that is available for cooking purposes is getting very limited ; consequently the fruits in- variably meet with a ready sale in market, and in private gardens I never knew them to be over- abundant. One of the great merits of Damsons and Buliaces is their hardiness and fruitfulness in rough soil, in which but little else wonld grow. In Kent they are largely grown in hedgerows, and when planted on the outskirts of fruit plantations they make an excellent wind-screen for more tender, but not more useful, fruits. — J. G. H. FRUITS UNDER GLASS. Pines. The culture of English Pines having declined, pre- parations for the spring potting and rearrangement areasmall affair compared with what they were thirty years ago. The quantity in many places no doubt has been greatly reduced, but the quality, it is gra- tifying to be able to say, never was better; indeed, taking into account the short time devoted to the culture of the Pine from the sucker to the finish of the fruit, it is questionable if the skill displayed by the remnant of growers has ever been equalled. February being the favourite month for commencing the spring campaign, I advised in my last paper the arrangement of all preliminaries for carrying out the work with comfort and dispatch when the plants as well as the weather are in the best possible con- dition for potting operations. A week ago I should have said, take advantage of this bright, mild wea- ther, but a change to frost and snow may yet close every light in the Pine range for some weeks, as we still have a long account to settle with the winter. This possibility will not, however, prevent us from hav- ing clean crocks in clean pots ready for use, and compost, consisting of rich, sound, sandy loam, peat, charcoal, bones, &c., dry and warm for putting into them when the best autumn suckers are ready for the first and final .■■hift. In ordinary seasons the drying and preparation of the soil take up much time ; but this is an exceptional year, as we might dig turf from the pasture, break it up and use it at once — that is to say, as soon as it is warm enough. Another very important preliminary is the preparation of the bed for the reception of the plants, and as this, where fermenting leaves or tan are extensively used, takes up two or three weeks, the materials not only for the first compartment, but for all the compartments down to the sucker- pit, should be put through the usual course of fer- mentation and frequent turning" quite that length of time before they are wanted. When ready for use, the compartment intended for the cream of the success-ions should be cleared out to the very bottom to ensure the removal of the numerous pests, including worms, woodlice, crickets, and the like, which breed so rapidly in these places. The pits should then be scalded with boiling water, the glass and woodwork well washed, and the walls whitewashed with hot lime, not only to complete the spring cleaning, but also to secure the diffusion of as much light as possible — no small matter where a firm stocky growth so early in the season is of vital importance. When filling up the bed, the materials should be made very firm in layers until the proper height is attained, when it will be neces- sary to insert watch sticks and suspend operations until the flush of bottom-heat has descended to 85°. Where hot-water pipes give the necessary degree of heat all this trouble and anxiety are avoided, as the old tan may be sifted and renovated with a layer of new on the surface, or a few fresh, but well-fer- mented leaves maybe worked in, when potting may be proceeded with. PoitiiKj. — The first thing to be considered is the condition of the plants, for if the.'e, say in 8 inch pots, have not made a suflncient number of healthy roots to hold the balls together, it will be safer to let the bed wait than pot prematurely. The plants as they are selected should be divested of a few of the smallest leaves before they are turned out of the pots; then it will be necessary to remove all old crocks and loose soil from the balls, as nothing inert or sour should be introduced with the new compost, which is to carry the fruit to maturity. The compost being dry as well as warm, the base for the reception of the ball cannot be made too firm, and, provided 12-inch pots are used for the best Queens and 10-inch for the second size, the filling must be arranged for the top of each ball to stand H inches below the level of the rim. In fill- ing up round the balls, eschew the smallest particles of the compost, ram firmly to prevent the holding of much water in suspension, finish off the highest near the stems, allowing the soil to taper away to within an inch below the rims ; plunge at once, but defer giving water. If any of the balls from their close proximity to the bottom-heat pipes have be- come too dry, they should be properly moistened before they are turned out, as no after-watering will correct this without souring the new compost, and passing them in this state is very often the cause of premature fruiting. Sidisequent treatmenl. — Days being still dark, short, and cold, there must be no attempt at undue haste, but rather the aim must be the maintenance of a steady bottom heat ranging about 85°, certainly not above 90^, the former being preferable — roots into the new compost being of more importance than elongated leaf-growth. But little, if any, air need be given at first, but when the roots have taken to the new soil, a chink may be admitted at 70° and the temperature from gleams of sunshine may rise to 80°, when the pit must be closed, with moisture secured by damping the walls and floors. If the weather is mild and the afternoons bright, aided by gentle fires, the heat may be let down gradually until it touches G5° at banking time and 60° the following morning. If covering of some kind can be placed over the glass at night, much injury from hard firing will be avoided, moisture and genial heat husbanded, when the minimum night tempera- ture will favour rest until the roots have penetrated the whole of the compost. This point reached, say, the end of March, it will be necessary to consider the necessity for giving Water. — A month from potting seems a long time to keep the plants without water, but when we take into account the moist condition of the fer- menting bed, the quantity of new compost jet un- filled with roots, and the succulent nature of the plant, we must arrive at the conclusion that early watering is superfluous and injurious. Practical Pine growers profess to tell in the dark when a Pine requires water. Certainly they can tell by the feel and appearance of the leaves. Young be- ginners must examine the compost and watch their elders. The first watering need not be heavy, but each plant should be examined and receive enough to reach the crocks or wait a week longer. Soft water is the best not only for Pines, but for all other plants ; hence my constant advice to look well after this now precious element. The mean of the house as yet being barely 70°, the temperature of the water need not exceed 80" ; in fact, a very safe plan is the maintenance of a good supply in each house or pit for use whenever it is wanted for watering and syringing. Prof/ress. — Having disposed of the first batch of spring-potted plants certainly until the end of April, 1 have only to say, repeat the cleansing and other details in each compartment and pit as the plants become ready and the weather is favourable. Avoid being overstocked, as crowding at any time, particularly in the spring, when the weather is dark, the plants young, and but little air can be admitted, leads to results which no after-manage- ment can conquer. Grow a few plants, grow them well, and the better to secure a constant supply of fruit for home use divide them as much as possible into small batches. Give Queens the lightest, driest, and warmest pits and the smallest pots, as they are more delicate and require less water than would be good for Rothschilds and Cayennes throughout the season. The Orchard House. Unless the trees housed early in January have been most abundantly ventilated, the past mild weather will have hastened the buds to an extent that would alarm many an amateur when he set eyes upon the heavy fall of snow this morning. Checks of all kinds, it is true, are injurious, but the Peach being fairly hardy, a low temperature, unless the buds are actually bursting, will not be likely to do any haj-m. I do not, as a matter of course, ad- 174 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. vocate the admission of frost, especially when the sap is on the move, bnt of two evils, I would venti- late freely in the coldest weather in preference to enervating the trees by coddling. If the presence of other occupants interfered with the final arrange- ment of the trees, this work must now be brought to a close, and, provided the different families are fairly represented, commencing at the hottest end. Figs must stand first, then Peaches and Nectarines, Plums, Pears, and Cherries. Strawberries may be introduced, but not to the dry, airy shelves, as we may yet have a long spell of wintry weather, when constant watering may keep the house too moist and sloppy for the well-being of the other occu- pants. A light, airy pit is the best place for late Strawberries, and, lacking this, an open part of the orchard house floor, the nearer the glass the better, will answer well and save a great deal of labour in watering until such time as the crowns begin to burst, when they must be elevated. Many people altogether miss the true purpose for which the mixed or general orchard house was originally in- tended, viz., the certainty and enjoyment of a full crop of fruit every year; but, amateur-like, they invest in a good pruning-knife and plenty of rich manure. They house their trees early, light a fire, and close the ventilators. All these materials, in- struments, and operations are necessary to success, but unless each move is made at the right time and in the right direction, the trees suffer and the crop is lost or worthless. We advise early housing to shelter the trees from sudden and severe climatal changes, but, once under glass, retarding by free ventilation is preferable to forcing without it. Next to, indeed on a level with, fresh air, comes another element, so scarce of late, and that is water. Figs excepted, every kind of fruit tree from the Peach to the Strawberry must have a continuous and yet withal a judicious supply of water. Winter and summer the poor roots imprisoned in a peck of compost must be regularly watered and fed, not in driblets that deceive the eye for a short time, but in quantities that will keep the entire ball In growing condition. Cleanliness and tidiness go hand-in- hand, not only in securing enjoyment to the owner, bnt health to the trees, and for these reasons the pots, trees, and structure should be kept as fresh, sweet, and neat as a living-room. These points properly attended to, fruit trees of all sorts should flower as strongly and set their crops as freely as their fellows on open walls in favourable seasons. Fire-heat, as a matter of course, is invaluable, but instead of applying it as the commence-all and end- all, it should be used extremely sparinglyin severe or very wet weather only up to the flowering stage, then regularly to favour a free circulation of air and the dispersion of the pollen during the time the fruit is setting. To these general remarks, which the true amateur wOl readily turn to account, at least for the present, I have one word of advice to add. Never allow an insect of any kind to prey upon the foliage or flowers, but bath the Strawberries after they are introduced in strong soapsuds or sulphur water for the destruction of spider and mildew, and fumigate two or three times at intervals, timing the last operation to barely precede the opening of the first blossom. Do not let an ap- parently clean bill of health set aside the smoking, as one pair of undetected aphis will fill the house in a fortnight and rain many trees before the crop of fruit is set. The principal work in the ICarhj himse will be timely ventilation on fine mornings, daily syringing and careful watering, as no amount of after attention will compensate for neglect of the roots. Assuming that the trees are out of flower, and a plentiful crop of fruit is swelling, disbudding and moderate thinning, also shortening back, may be commenced as soon as the young Peaches are the size of small Peas. The fruit the first time over may safely be reducrd to three on each shoot, and those near home with their points upward to the sun whilst swelling best will favour keeping pyramids close and com- pact, no small matter where space is limited and light imperative. In the selection of young shoots for forming the next year's bearing wood, the best near the base of the one now carrying the crop, and eventually to come away, is to be preferred. Several for some distance above it, especially where a fruit is nestling at their base, may then be pinched to two or three leaves, but the point shoots must be allowed to make 6 inches or more of growth, when the strongest of these will require pinching. When the fruit begins to swell freely the roots must receive their first instalment of rich top-dressing, and their liquid food may be somewhat stronger than water. Whenever this is used it must be clear, weak, and tepid, and in quantity sufficient to penetrate quite through the balls and drainage. There must be no mere surface- watering, neither must the moist appearance produced by the syringe deceive the eye. If the house has not been fumigated since the trees went out of flower it will be necessary to keep an out- look for the first curled leaf, and to smoke before fly has time to do mischief. Young foliage and fruit at this early stage, it must be borne in mind, will not stand a powerful volume of tobacco smoke ; hence my reason for advising preventive in preference to corrective measures. The weather being so uncertain, the temperature for the present, especially through the night, should rule low, say 50°, when sharp firing is necessary, and 55°, or sometimes a little more, when it is mild. That by day may run 10° higher from fire, and 15° from sun-heat, air, as a matter of course, being moderately and carefully admitted. enough, but spider is worse, and the only check upon these pests is fumigation, copious syringing, and good feeding. W. C. Steawbeeeies. Assuming that early batches have been carefully fertilised and a sufiBcient number of perfect berries are now swelling, it wUl be quite unnecessary for me to advise their removal to a hotter place, not, so to say, to avoid undue haste, as many a crop has been lost when a few more days' patience would have saved it. When properly thinned to six or nine to a plant, the fruit should be tied up to small sticks or propped with forked pegs to keep it out of harm's way and to prevent the stalks from pressing on the rims of the pots, a position in which they are likely to get injured. A good syringing with pure tepid water to cleanse the foliage and a tho- rough watering with clear diluted liquid wiU then fit them for their new and last quarters for ripening. In days gone by the fruiting Pine stove was the favourite ripening house, but Pines in many places having been given up, fresh arrangements now have to be made, the main andmost important points being plenty of light, strong heat, and isolation from Vines and other occupants subject to red spider. The re- moval of the first batch forward is always a relief, as it enables the grower to change the position of each plant, the best of all preventives of the elonga- tion of the leaf -stalks ; whilst the removal of the weak and the blind makes room for the introduc- tion of successions from the store pits or plunging ground. Where it is the custom to plunge the principal stock in cold pits covered with glass, the lights should now be thrown off every fine day, and the atmosphere being so extremely dry, water to the roots must be regulariy administered. The winter now passing having been comparatively rain- less, the latest plants plunged in the open air have not received a sufficiency of this element from the clouds, but those who understand their nature and requirements will have met this deficiency by hand. Others who have not examined them should now do so, as dryness at the root even in winter is the foster-parent of spider, mildew, loss of roots, and blindness. Batches intended for flowering and fruiting in cold pits, if not abready regulated, must now be thinned out and re-plunged quite G inches apart every way. As surface roots will now be on the move, each ball should be well rammed, tho- roughly watered with diluted liquid, and top-dressed with rich compost to which a dash of soot has been added. If spider or mildew are detected on the under sides of the leaves, overhead dipping in soap- suds and sulphur, or a solution of sulphide of potas- sium (halt an ounce to the gallon of warm water) when the plants are out, should not be neglected. Plants placed in early Peach houses and vineries, with the view to their remaining until the fruit is ripe, must be watched, tended, and treated as the most dangerous and destructive occupants con- tained in the gardener's calendar. Fly is bad Orchids. ■W. H. OOWEE CHYSIS AT STUDLEY HOUSE. These are plants of great beauty, and although by no moans of recent introduction, they have never become common in collections of orchi- daceous plants. I was consequently much gratified recently to see nearly a complete collec- tion of the kinds known to be in cultivation in the above establishment, where they appear to be great favourites, and where all the kinds may shortly be seen in flower. Mr. Measures, of Camberwell, also appears to be turning liis atten- tion to the Chysis, and I trust we may soon see them more generally grown. Some years ago I had three species under my charge, viz., 0. aurea, C. Limminghei, and C. bractescens, and these made good growths and flowered annually under my treatment, which was about the same as I see practised by Mr. Cowley, who has charge of Mr. Tautz's plants. During the growing season Chysis enjo}' strong heat and an abundant supply of moisture, the warmest end of the Cattleya house, or even the East India house, suiting them admirably. When, however, the large and stout spindle-shaped pseudo-bulbs are mature, the plants must be placed in cooler quarters and receive no water, in order that the growth may be thoroughly ripened. These plants are deciduous, and while at rest lose all their leaves, but as young ones are again developed before the flowers expand, this loss is not noticeable. Soon after the com.- mencement of the year the plants should he carefully watched, so that upon the first indica- tion of new growth they may be removed into their warm quarters and be freely supplied with moisture. The flower-spike proceeds from the side of the pseudo-bulb near to the base, and rises with the young growth. This simple treatment, if well carried out, will scarcely fail to ensure vigorous growth and a regular supply of beautiful wax-like flowers. I have grown them upon blocks, but as they obtain size their heavy pseudo-bulbs render them cumber- some when thus treated. Pot culture is prefer- able to that on blocks, but baskets are tlie best of all for these plants. The soil should consist of good fibrous peat, with some nodules of char- coal intermixed, and the whole should be sur- faced with growing Sphagnum. Repotting or basketing should be done immediately the plants show signs of growth, as at that time there are no young roots liable to injury, and the surface being covered with living Moss forms a nice congenial bed for the roots just at the most critical time. The kinds which will shortly be in flower in Mr. Tautz's collection are — C. AUEBA, of which a description of the growth will suffice for all the kinds ; pseudo-bulbs stout, pendent, and spindle - shaped, about 1 foot or 2 feet in length, and furnished with large, mem- branous, plaited leaves ; the spike is about half the length of the growth, and bears a raceme of six or seven large fleshy flowers, which are yeUow tipped with orange ; lip yellow ; front lobe white marked with reddish crimson. It blooms at \arious seasons, from March to May and even June, according to the time at which the plants start into growth. The flowers last about two weeks in perfection. C. BEACTBSCBNS. — Raceme three to six-flowered ; individual flowers about % inches across, thick and waxy in texture and pure white, the lip being Feb. 25, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 175 stained inside with yellow and a few streaks of crimson, and bearing several fleshy ridges on the disc. C.Chelsoni.— A Veitchian hybrid of great beauty, the result of a cross between the two previously- named kinds ; sepals and petals nankeen-yellow, blotched with rose at the tips ; lip bright yellow, streaked and spotted with reddish purple. C. L.EVis produces a many-flowered raceme ; flowers yellow suffused with orange ; lip also yellow, blotched and streaked with crimson ; the front lobe prettily crisped round the edge. C. LiMMiNGHBi. — Raceme five to six-llowered I sepals and petals blush white, or cream coloured, tipped with rosy pink or purple ; side lobes of lip yellow, streaked and blotched with crimson ; middle elevations, delighting in the neighbourhood of waterfalls, where it is exposed to constant humidity. The Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea, were the first to succeed in importing this noble plant in a living state, and it first flowered in their establishment in the spring of the year 1870.— W. H. G. THE LONG-TONGUED PACHYSTOMA. (p. THOMSONIANUM.) This singular and beautiful Orchid was intro- duced some few years ago by the Messrs. Veitcli, of Chelsea, from the West Coast of Africa. When not in, bloom it somewhat resembles some of the Erias, but its ilowers show that it is dis- Pachystoma Thomsoniauum. lobe lilac, flushed with pink and streaked with purple. Vanda Cathcarti. — Hitherto this plant has had a somewhat evil reputation amongst Orchid growers, it being generally considered a bad species to establish from imported specimens— an ugly, scrambling plant when it is established, and a shy bloomer withal. Judging, however, by several plants about IH inches or 2 feet high which I have ob- served flowering recently, this character of it will no longer hold good. The plants referred to I have noted in the establishments of Sir Trevor Lawrence at Burford Lodge, Mr. Measures at Cam- berwell, and Mr. Bull at Chelsea. Sir Trevor Law- rence's plant was, however, the best variety, the large concave flowers being particularly well marked. The plant is said to grow in hot, damp, shady valleys in the Eastern Himalayas at considerable tinct from any other Orchid at present in culti- vation, although it is said to be closely allied to the genus Ipsea. Neither Erias nor Ipseas are common in cultivation, although I recently ob- served nice examples of both Ipsea and this Pachystoma growing in Sir Trevor Lawrence's collection, where such gems as the plant here illustrated are to be found in great numbers. The leaves of this are solitary or in pairs, some C inches long, plaited, and pale green ; the peduncle is erect, as long, or longer, than tlie leaves, bearing two or more ilowers, each of which measures 3 inches across ; the sepals and petals are pure shining white ; the curiously- shaped lip is trifid ; the erect side lobes white, broadly streaked with red on the inner side ; the middle lobe produced into a long, recurved tongue - like process, deep magenta - purple. streaked with white. The brilliant flowers are produced during the autumn months and last a considerable time in perfection. This plant should be grown in a pot, in a mixture of good fibrous peat and Sphagnum Moss. It enjoys full exposure to the light, but requires to be shaded from the sun during the hottest part of the day. The temperature of the East India house is necessary for its healthy- development, and it enjoys a moderate supply of water when growing, and Ehould not be allowed to become dry at any season. Ada aurantiaca is an Orchid which some years ago was exceedingly rare. It was, however, im- ported in quantity for a short time, and, either from there being no demand for it or because the supply was exhausted in its native country, no more came home, and those who had secured plants set about growing them. The result is, that although not the easiest of plants to establish in the state in which it usually arrives home, there are numerous fine ex- amples to be found in the country, and this is just the season when the long, nodding racemes of bright orange or cinnabar flowers are produced. I recently noted healthy, well-flowered specimens of this species both with Sir Trevor Ijawrence at Dorking, and also in Mr. Measures' collection at Streatham. In both places the plants are grown under exactly the same conditions as Odontoglossum Alexandrae. They like shade, and do not like frequent change of position. — W. H. G. Fish manure for Orchids.— "W. H. G.," in The Garden (p. 102), says that fish manure is not beneficial to Cypripediums, and asks the experience of others. I used this manure all last year on our Orchids here with good results. The C^ypripediums in particular seem greatly benefited by it, as they are in the rudest of health, and have flowered well. C. insigne has thrown a larger number of twin flowers than usual. Such Orchids as Cattleyas, Ccelogynes, Dendrobiums, Lycastes, Oncidiums, Odontoglos- sums, Lfelias, &c., have made larger bulbs than in previous years, showing that this manure is bene- ficial to them. The only case in which we saw evil results follow was through using it on a plant of Dendrobium chrysanthum, the young growths of which were blackened and afterwards died off. I think it must have got some of the manure from the bottom of the water-pot. It is used as recom- mended by Mr. Gilks, of Higham House,, viz., mixed with water to a paste and kept in a wide- mouthed bottle — one teaspoonful of manure to a gallon of water. " W. H. G." does not say how it was used on Mr. Southgate's Cypripediums. Per- haps he would inform us. — W. J. Mitchison. Uasdevallias at Downside. — At almost every season of the year a collection of Masdevallias shows some flowers, and at the present time several species and varieties are in bloom at Downside, Leatherhead. The most striking, by reason of their brilliant colours, are M. Veitchiana and its variety grandiflora and M. ignea. The first-named is a noteworthy species, the scape bearing a solitary flower of a rich orange-scarlet shaded with metallic purple, and coated with minute hairs. In the variety the flowers are larger and have more sub- stance. A specimen of M. ignea was full of flowers, these cinnabar. red in colour, and each sepal enriched with lines of a deeper shade. It is curious to note that one spike was carrying two blooms, a rather unusual occurrence in Masdevallias, though not so in Cypripediums. There were several flowering plants of the beautiful M. Sliuttleworthi, the prettiest perhaps of all the genus, and also of the spotless white M. tovarensis, which has now become deservedly common. An interesting, though not a particularly showy kind is M. melanoxantha, which we also saw at Kew. It is a sturdy grower, the sepals forming a fleshy tubular flower, the upper half greenish white with two or three lines of purple, the lower portion of a somewhat curious colour to describe, but approaching mauve-purple. A free-blooming and pretty species is M. triangu- laris, the triangular sepals freely spotted with 176 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. brownish yellow on a buff vellow ground, with the long tails deep red. Mr. Woolford. who has charge of the Downside Orchids, grows M. Chimsera and its varieties exceptionally well in baskets suspended near the light of a comparatively cool house. The type is in bloom, also a few varieties, one named Roezli having flowers of a dark, clouded, slaty hue, almost impossible to describe with any degree of clearness. This is an interesting section, as not only is there a curious mixture of colours, but the form of the flower is remarkable. Coelogyne cristata. — This lovely species is flowerinji most profusely in The Woodlands collec- tion at Streatham, where the plants are grown in quite a cool house, in fact in company with Lycaste Skinneri, that is to say, just a trifle waimer than the Odontoglossums. I counted over five hundred spikes upon the Ccelogynes, each spike carrying on the average five blooms, so that about 2.")00 flowers are open at one time, the plants presenting quite a dazzling sheet of pure white. Amongst these were the Chatsworth variety, the variety maxima, and cris- tata Lemoniana, which is very chaste ; besides being a large and full flower, the delicate pale yellow in the throat renders it very desirable. There was also a grand plant of the variety known as alba, and also as cristata hololeuca, bearing thirty spikes, but the buds were not developed. This is one of those Orchids in which the flowers are entirely pure white, without stain or mark of any colour whatever. It still remains rare and valuable. — W. H. G. Bolbophyllum barbigeram. — This is a mem- ber of a genus which does not find much favour with Orchid growers, but the species here noted is one of the most singular plants in the whole vegetable kingdom. A nice example of it is now flowering in the Burford Lodge collection. It is a dwarf plant, with somewhat flat pseudo-bulbs, which each bear a solitary deep green leaf. It bears a raceme of long-stalked flowers, of which the lip is the chief point of attraction, being long, narrow, and covered with short, yellow, woolly hairs. Near the top is a brush-like beard of longer, deep purple hairs, and at the extreme tip is a crest of long, thread-like purple hairs, which are club -tipped and continually in motion, waving backwards and forwards with the slightest breath of air. In addi- tion to this the lip is jointed, and any sharp current of air sets the whole in motion. It is an old plant, though seldom seen, having been introduced from Sierra Leone by the Messrs. Loddiges, of Hackney, upwards of fifty years ago. Like all the plants from that district of Western Africa, it enjoys abundance of moisture and strong heat. It may be grown either upon a block or as a pot plant ; if the former plan is adopted, it requires extra attention to keep it moist. — W. H. G. Odontoglossum Leeanum. — Amongst the many species and varieties of Odontoglossum that we have now there are few, if any, that have such cheerful colouring as this, which is a reputed natural hybrid, and showing an attiaity both to O. triuniphans and gloriosum. A strong specimen was recently in bloom at Downside, Leatherhtad, and though the flowers are by no means of bold, striking farm, they are hrillisintlycoloured, and measure about '^ inches across. The sepals and petals are narrow, and bright clear yellow, freely dotted with deep brown ; the apex of the lip yellow, the centre white, and at the base there is a large blotch of brown. It is a plant of goud constitution, and a few specimens in full hlooin add greatly to the showiness and beauty of a group. CcElogyne sparsa. — This is a Co^Iogync that, alttiouijh not showy, is extremely interesting and free- flowering, and apparently belongs to tlieocellata group. A single specimen is suspended near the roof in the Cat Icya house at Downside, and is crowded witli flowers, thcFe being borne on short racemes, and having a pretty appearance clustering amongst the leaves. The sepals and petals are white, and the lip also white, but at the apex there is a horsc-shoo-like band rtf yellow nrirglned with orange. It appears easy to grow, as the pot was crammed with bulbs, and a Selaginella had albO found a home in it, Cypripedium grande.— This is well named, as it is a hybrid that presents tine characters, and belongs to the interesting Selenipedium group, having C. Itoezli and C. caudatum as its parents. There is a very robust and well-developed specimen in the collection of Mr. Lee at Downside, the long stout scape bearing a large, handsome bloom. The dorsal sepal is veined with a yellowish green hue on a whitish ground, the ribbon-like petals attaining a length of about 1 foot, and coloured with light rose, except at the base, where they are whitish yellow. The lip is very large, and of a dull brown tint. Its great beauty is in the cheerful colouring of the flowers, a relief from the monotony of browns that characterise manv of this class. ORCHID NOTES FROM AMERICA. Moth Orchids. — The house devoted to the Phalfenopsids is at the present time very attrac- tive. Many hundreds are in flower, and the numer- ous undeveloped spikes and buds give promise of a long season of bloom The collection is very rich, embracing nearly every known kind. A good pro- portion of those in flower now are hybrids, either natural or artificial, all of them being related to Schilleriana or amabilis. The direct progeny of the-:e may be seen in P. casta, with amabilis as the seed parent, while leucorrhoda is the result of the reverse cross. Both are lovely kinds, but casta has better shaped and more richly coloured blooms. Flowers of three examples of the white form of leucorrhoda are open, and all differ from each other in the spotting and intensity of the tints. P. Sanderiana possibly results from the same parent- age as the foregoing, or it may have grandiflora as a seed parent. Be this as it may, it is a charming kind, varying considerably in colour. The darkest form is seen in rosea, and a much spotted one is marmorata; the latter very much resembles P. casta. In intermedia, of which there are three specimens in flower, we have the hybrid of amabilis and rosea possessing an exact intermediate charac- ter. A larger and better coloured form of this may be seen in P. Portei, carrying a branched spike of thirty-five flowers. Brymeriana is another variety in which the sepals and petals have more colour than the type, the leaves being deep green with numerous small dots at the base. P. Veitchl, of which two plants are in flower, is undoubtedly a hybrid between Schilleriana, and rosea, the former being the seed parent; the foliage resembles that of P. Schilleriana. The flowers partake of the charac- ters of both parents. A pale and much more hand- some variety of this is braohyodon. P. Harriettise is in fine flower. This is the result of crossing P. violaoea with P. amabilis, the former being the seed parent. In both growth and flower this forms an interme- diate character, but the flower-spike is entirely that of violacea. One good point about these artificial hybrids is that they are strong growers, and it is grati- fying to know that there are many more to bloom. Of Stuartiana there are several plants in bloom, varying greatly in size and spotting of the flowers; several root-buds from these plants are growin g freely, and a few flowers will be open in a few days. Among the many varieties of Schilleriana, a noteworthy kind is advena. This is pure white save the faintest tint of rose at the back of the sepals and petals and a dash of yellow on the crest. There are many good varieties in theamabilis and grandiflorasections, particularly Day's variety of the former and the golden form of the latter. Rosea, which is well repre- sented, is now on the wane. This species, with 1*. Esmeralda and Lowi, rendered the house quite at- tractive during the autumn months. A very interest- ing, though by no means showy, kiod is Parishi On one of the posts in this house is a fine plant of Angraicum Chailluanum in flower, while near is the handsome A. cryptodon. LiELiA BELLA is in flower in Mr. Coming's collec- tion. This is a magnificent hybrid between the old Cattleya labiata and Lajlia parpurata, combining the best qualities of these, and producing flowers that are certainly unsurpassed. L. TRIOPHALMA is also open. This is the result of crossing C. superba with L. exoniensis, itself a hybrid. It is a very free-growing kind, but I do not think it is any improvement on either of its parents. L. GouLDiANA, described in a former number, has several spikes of bloom, and near it is L. Craw- shayi; both of these are natural hybrids, and, I think, a close examination will show that L. albida is the seed parent in Crawshayi, and the pollen parent in Gouldiana ; while anceps is the pollen parent of Crawshayi, and autumnalis the seed parent of Gouldiana; both are grand acquisitions. Kejin-ood, Alhany, ?,'.y. F. GOLDEING. ORCHIDS IN FLOWER AT FOREST HILL. Although this nursery is so justly celebrated for its Begonias, Orchids receive a very large share of attention from Mr. Laing. At the present time the most noteworthy is a grand lot of Ddndrobium Wardianum just coming into bloom. The plants form part of a large lot imported by Mr. Laing some two years ago. They have now become thoroughly established and have made fine stout pseudo-bulbs, in many instances superior in size to those made in their native country, while they are producing a corresponding quantity of flowers. Associated with these are also numbers of D. crassinode, with its bright flowers and curious pagoda-like pseudo-bulbs, many forms of the good old D. nobile and its richly-coloured variety pendulum, the ever-welcome D. heterocarpum with its violet-scented flowers, and D. Ainsworthi. These Dendrobes, and indeed all the East Indian kinds, are not grown in great heat, but the houses have a very genial atmosphere, there being very little stonework about them, whilst the paths are composed of clean coal ashes (similar to the plan so prevalent in the Belgian gardens), which, while they are easily kept clean and neat, continu- ally yield a gentle and genial moisture, which appears to suit the plants admirably. In another house a quantity of Cattleyas is grown. Many of the TrianiE section are now opening their flowers, and amongst them are some excellent varieties. Here also was to be seen, at the time of my visit, a plant in flower of that beautiful hybrid of Mr. Dominy's Cattleya exoniensis, its great beauty and its rarity still causing it to realise high prices, in proof of which a plant of this variety recently realised .£100 at a public auction. Plants of Ccelogyne cristata grown here with the Cattleyas were just opening their snowy flowers, promising a bril- liant show later on, together with the equally beautiful, but somewhat rarer, C. elata, and there still lingered some spikes of that useful Orchid, Calanthe Yeitcbi, which began the display some two months ago. Amongst miscellaneous species now in bloom the most worthy of note were Cypripedium llominianum, various forms of the old C. insigne and Boxalli, Oncidium Forbesi, Pilumna nobilis, and a very remarkable form of Odonto- glossum grande, which, when it is more fully esta- blished and the growths become strong enough to produce flowers of full size, will require a varietal name. Can anyone say why this grand old Orchid, which requires only cool treatment, and which pro- duces such a magnificent display for so little atten- tion, is still so seldom seen in quantity, as it is rarely that more than half a dozen plants are found in a collection.' Amongst Masdevallias I noted ignea, poly sticta, and the snowy-flowered tovarensis, which latter appears to thrive best in a slightly warmer position than the Harryana and ignea sections. W. H. G. SHORT NOTES.— ORCHIDS. Saccolabium gigan^eum album. — This was re- cently tlowciinn iu the Clielsci iiiusery of Missrs. Veitcli anH is very similar to the type, but pure white and, as in the pirent, powerfullv fragnant. It must be classed among.stlhe clioicest of white- flowered (.irchids. Leelia harpophvlla is perhaps the most showy Orchid now in bloom, as tlie brisht orange-scarlet colour of its flowers is exceptionally lirilliant, and when seen in a mass, almost painful to the eyes. It is a Branilian spccifs aud ia similar to the distinct L. cinnabarina, but the flowers are larger and the colour is more intense. Spathoglcttis pubescens.— A small plant of Hiis Orchid is in blnoui at Kew, and though it flowers without the leaves, it is interesting and In its way l)eautiful. The sleider peduncle is abriut 6 inches or so in length, and bears at the tip two ne.at flowers about the size of a halfpenny, clear ycHuw in colour, except the insidM of the lateral lobes t)f the lip, where there is a snITusion of brown. Those who like tmall-flowcred Orchids will appreciate this gem. Milconla cuneata. —The v reat beauty of this flower is chiefly in the lovely pure white lip, that presents a fine con- trast to the sepals and petals, which are narrow and rich Feb. 25, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 177 chest'uit-brown, the tips and bases pale lemon colour. An importt^d l-1 nip in the Misery of Messrs. Shuttlew.-rth & Car.fer. Ll .pham, was beaiing a .and r.iCfme. and it w s an exceli- nt variety, ttie foliage abundant, and the i\ >we.s well formed. Stenorrhynelivis maeulatus. — This is a form of S. speciosus, of whicla 1 sent yon a note a short time ago. In this plant the leaves are beautifully spotted with silvery white, and the flowers appear to be red as well as the bracts. Fine examples of this kind are now flowering in Sir Trevor Lawrence's garden at Dorking, where it is grown in the inter- media'e house. It is a desirable variety for those who appreciate vai-iegated leaves. — W. H. G. Epidendrum Endresi. — This is a beautiful little gem in its way, but scarcely showy enough to please all orchidists. It is something like a tufted alpine, the stems being a few inches high and clothed with small deep green leaves. The flowers are whit«, except the lip, which is of a charming amethyst colour, something like what we find in Saccolabium cu'leste. A plant is flowering in the collection of Mr. Lee, of Downside, and is grown in a basket suspended near the glass in one of the warmest houses. Odontoglossum hystrix. — This is considered a variety of the beautiful O. luteo-purpureum, an Orchid that should be in every collection, as few are easier to grow, and its flowers have a bold form and colouring. The variety hystrix is remarkably handsome, and one of the finest specimens that I have seen for some time was recently in perfection at Downside. The raceme was vei'y thick and of considerable length, carrying twenty flowers of gi'eat substance and width ; the sepals and petals rich brown, tipped with pale yellow, the lip of the latter colour and crested at the margin. The leaves are abundant, and the appearance of the plant betokens a strong vigorous habit. — X. Coelogyne graminifolia. — This is said to be a very rare Orchid, and supposed to be flowering for the first time in this country. It may be seen in the Kew collection, where it has been in cultivation for a long time. It is a good deal like some of the other white-flowered species, such as C. media, ochracea, and others, but the foliage is distinct, being un- usually narrow, of thick texture, deep green and erect, but the specific name graminifolia seems to be far- fetched, as the leaves are not very like Grass. The flowers are about 2 inches across, sepals and petals white, lip marked with yellow of dirterent shades. It may be interesting to Orchid specialists, but it is doubtful if it will make such a good garden plant as the commoner white species. It is a native of Assam and Moulmein. — W. G. Maxularia lepidota. — One of the most strik- ing Orchids recently blooming at Burford Lodge was a couple of fine masses of this plant. It is dwarf and compact in habit and a most profuse bloomer, the flowers being borne singly upon long stems, and are very Masdevallia-like in appearance. The colour is bright orange-yellow, all the sepals being lengthened out into long tail-like points, which are brownish purple, the petals being about half the length of the sepals and orange-yellow. It Is grown here in the house with the Odontoglo--sams, and should be sought after by all those having such convenience, as it is one of the most brilliant of winter-flowering Orchids. — W. H. G. Cattleyaa at Downside, Leatherhead. — The large Cattleja house at Downside, Leather- head, the residence of Mr. Lee, is becoming gay with flowers, and as the spring advances will present a mass of colour from end to end. Varieties of C. Trianae are now the attraction, and it is snr- pri->ing the vivid hues and delicate tints to be found in a comprehensive collection. C. Trianie alba was flowering freely ; it is pure white, except the suffu- sion of yellow in the throat, but a form named virginalis eclipses even this in beauty and purity; it has petals of exquisite transparency, crisp, broad, and pure white, the only colour being in the throat of the lip, where there is a slight shade of yellow, the faint tinge of lilac that appears on the expanded portion when the bloom first opens almost dis- appearing with age. A finely-coloured variety is Emperor, the lip of the richest purple, and a bold contrast to the tinted sepals and petals. C. T. Backbousiana also has a hutrous purple- magenta lip, the sepals and petals lilac, the centre iii each case enriched with a deeper shade The finest of all now in bloom is Leeana, which has a massive, boldly - formed, and richly - coloured flower, the petals measuring 3h inches across, and together with the sepals are of a rosy lilac tint; the hibes of the lip are purplish, the throat pencilled with orange, and the expanded portion deep magenta margined with white. Another very beautiful form is Emilie, characterised by very compact flowers, the wavy, broad, and pale lilac petals closing round the lip, which is deep purple fading to a lighter .shade at the crinkled margin, the yellow colour- ing at the entrance to the throat intensifying the purple. Be.^-ides the forms of C. Trianie there were several of the variable C. Percivaliana in bloom, these being noticeable for the combination of gold and purple colours displayed in the lip. Rose Garden. T. W. OIRDLESTONE. ROSE STOCKS. That suckers from the stock were an insur- mountable objection to worked Rose trees would seem the natural conclusion to be drawn from Mr. Douglas's letter on page 60, but, as a matter of fact, in gardens where the plants are well looked after, suckers are not very numerous, and when Ruses are transplanted, the number of suckers among them may be taken as a very reliable measure of the amount of neglect to which the plants have been subjected. For the avoidance of suckers, which, of course, it is de- sirable to reduce to a minimum, the most im- portant precaution to be taken (short of employ- ing only Roses on their own roots) is to make sure that the buds are inserted as close as possible to the roots of the stock. It is a good plan in liudding to make the first incision of the point of the budding knife at the point whence the roots of the stock start from the stem, and then to draw it upwards for the longitudinal cut, subsequently pushing the bud down as far as it will go towards the roots, and if all eyes have been carefully removed from the base of the stocks when root-pruned and planted. Rosea so worked will not throw up any suckers for a consiflerable period. It is impossible even so absolutely to guard against suckers from Briers which, although it is a very rare thing to find suckers from seedling Briers, occasionally de- velop eyes at some point of thickening of a root — it may be at a considerable distance from the main stem, and thence the familiar "robber' will appear. In such a case it is not sufficient to pull the sucker up, but the soil should be removed to find the point from which the shoot starts, and with a sharp knife that root should be severed just above the point at which the sucker springs from it. The Briers most liable to this kind of suckers are unquestionably stan- dards, perhaps because they generally have such woody root-stocks, as "D. T. F.'' points out on page 95. By the way, the Brier-man's remarks there refen'ed to are not very far oft" the mark, no doubt, for it is quite immaterial, when the Briers are manipulated by a skilful hand, whether they have any roots in the ordinary sense of the word or not, wonderful as it may appear how seemingly rootless standard Brier stocks establish themselves and thrive as they do. But it is hardly worth while to raise the ques- tion of desirability when the matter is one of necessity. "D. T. F.' would know, if he had ever tried collecting Bi-iers from the hedges, how almost impossible it is to obtain them with practicable roots. Generally, the specially coveted .straight nut-brown stem has its roots out on the other .side of the hedge, or there are half-a-dozen available stems all springing from one bole, and in either case the only cliance is to cliop off tlie root-stock near the base of the stem required, and trust to its making itself roots afresh there, which somehow it usually contrives to do when replanted iu the garden. It was this somewhat imaginary difliculty of roots, or rather the lack of them, that induced the raising of standard Briers from seed, and so obtaining standard seedling Briers with a fine mass of roots ; but in practice this is found to be the reverse of an improvement in the matter of suckers, as the " collar " of seedlings — below which the bud is inserted when the seedling stocks are worked as dwarfs— is a fertile source of trouble. Brier cuttings have been similarly tried and found to furnish splendidly rooted plants, but it could never be seen tliat they were subsequently a bit better than plants worked on the stump-ended Briers out of the hedges. The great secret of success in growing stand- dsird Briers is to commence the operation of planting in good time. Standards planted in October are better than those planted in Novem- ber, which in turn are much better than those planted in December, Where great quantities have to be planted, a start may be made even in the middle of September in ordinary seasons, and all should be completed before Christmas. If planting is deferred much later than this and a drying March succeeds, the Brier stems be^in to shrivel and shrink before theie is sufficient root action to keep them supplied with moisture, and the plants get no chance to make a fair start. It is only under such cir- cumstances that there are seen the " sick and dying Briers " that " D. T. F." refers to— that is to say, where growers have been neglect- ful of doing things at the proper time ; but if at the right season good sound stems are selected and planted, they will not fail to be thoroughly established and ready for budding in July, and it will still be (as it always has been) found in practice that it is absolutely immaterial that at the time of planting they were as rootless as the proverbial hockey-stick. FORCING ROSES. The most lovely of all the flowers usually exhibited in March and April at the exhibitions of the Royal Botanic Society are the forced Roses. The question may well be asked : How are such flowers obtained so early as March ? They are forced, of course, but the mere act of putting Roses early enough into a forcing house and supplying them with water will not do. The plants mu.st have been well cultivated the previous season, so that the wood may be well ripened, and, therefore, furnished with plump buds ready to burst into active life when placed in a warm, moist atmosphere. They must also be near to the glass in order to have a free circulation of air. Light and air are the essential properties most necessary for the perfect development of leaf and flower. A temperature of 55° as a minimum is better than a higher figure early in the year, green- fly and mildew not being likely to attack them in the lower temperature. These parasites must be destroyed on their very first appearance, as they would speedily disfigure the leaves, which in a healthy state are only less beautiful than the flowers. In the higher temperature the texture of the leaves will not be so firm, growth will not be so vigorous, and as a result of this the flowers will be wanting in fulness and brightness of petal. In ordinary gardens the difficulty is to obtain a good position for plants intended to be forced. The trade growers have a house set apart for forcing their Roses in, but, as a rule, the amateur tries to grow too great a variety in one house, and fails to do anything well. Some things require a high temperature, others a low one, and in the effort to make a compromise something must suffer. I force Roses well in the lofty lean-to early vineries. When the Vines are started, I place the Roses on an extemporised stage over the hot-water 178 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. pipes, and if they are then too far from the roof- glass, an inverted flower-pot is placed under each. The houses when started early have a low minimum temperature, about 45", and as the season advances this is gradually increased, but does not go above 55° until the Vines have started. The Koses are generally well into leaf and bud before they are too much shaded by the Vine leaves, and as soon as the buds show colour, or even earlier, the plants may be placed in the greenhouse to fully develop their flowers. J. Douglas. Trees 'and Shrubs. ABSUHD TREE PLANTING AND PROTECTING. In many places there appears to exist a mania for tree planting, the development of which has led to the disfigurement of many pretty meadows and fertile fields. I allude particularly to the planting of groups of trees for a supposed ornamental effect. All lovers of landscape are aware how much depends upon trees, and vast tracts of land, which with- out trees are open, bare, and monotonous, are by their presence rendered attractive and beautiful. Moreover, inasmuch as the eye cannot take in the whole of the scene at one time as before, but is arrested by a fine group of trees, their presence has apparently added to the area. Possibly this may have led to the indiscriminate planting of groups of trees without due consideration as to the effect they will have upon the existing scenery. I have seen many of these tree-planting absurdities in rural and pretty parts of Kent and Sussex. In some cases forty or fifty trees, such as Scotch Fir, Beech, Elm, Lime, and Spruce Fir, have been crowded together in such a ridiculously small space, that even if thinning were resorted to there would be only room for the development of one fair -sized tree, and that expected to take place after the ground has been impoverished by others grown only to be cut away. I saw a few days ago what would be a fine meadow spoiled by several immense groups of trees, which, whilst producing no effect in themselves, shut out beautiful and natural scenery — green fields and woods of Oak, and a nice ex- panse of green turf cut into stupid pieces, narrow strips and tortuous windings leading from nowhere to nowhere. There is another extreme of this pernicious group- ing system in which the trees are planted too far apart, allowed much more room than they will ever require, cover nearly half an acre, and are sur- rounded by immense cradles of wood or iron called protectors. From many of these unsatisfactory attempts to beautify the landscape, one draws the conclusion that it is a matter requiring great care and much thought. Doubtless, there are places where beauti- ful and hardy trees might be grouped advantageously and form distinct features, bat it must not be done in a haphazard fashion. After careful considera- tion, the planting should be entrusted to some thoroughly competent man. Nearly every nursery- man styles himself a landscape gardener, but there are to be seen many sorry spectacles of nursery- men's planting where the contract has enabled them to get rid of a lot of surplus stock. The ability to grow and supply a number of trees does not qualify a man as a landscape gardener. Tree-planting and landscape work in general should form an important part of every gardener's qualification, but it is much neglected by him, and, without doubt, there are numbers of glasshouse gardeners quite incapable of carrying out such improvements as would lead to satisfactory results. Such work does cot come within a nurseryman's sphere, but he has stepped in to fill a gap, contract- ing not only to supply the material.^, but also the hands to do the work. It is impossible for a man who has the responsibility of a large nursery business to give the time and thought requisite to such an important matter, for the landscape gardener's work is not routine, as what is suitable for one place is not for another, and he needs a long and varied experience. It is possible, too, that the unsatisfactory results seen are opposed to the nurserymen's interests, and apt to deter others from embarking upon planting improvements. There seems to be a great need of some simpler methods of protecting newly-planted trees other than those already adopted. I v?as recently at a place in Kent where a new road had been made, with a lot of trees planted at the sides, and sur- rounded by immense cages of wood which, if barred across the top, would effectually secure a man. They were formed of uprights of Larch, with cross pieces to hold them together, and were perfectly open, affording no protection against the depreda- tions of hares and rabbits on winter nights. Some of the trees were small, and could not he seen above the tops of the cumbersome cages, so I went and looked inside to ascertain if they were really there. I never remember to have seen anything more grotesque than these large tree-protectors along the sides of a new road in an open corn-growing country. Another stupid way often adopted for protecting newly-planted trees in parks and meadows is by placing pieces of iron fence around them. These are ugly enough in themselves, and I have seen hundreds of them, but after protecting the trees so that cattle cannot graze around their roots, the Grass is allowed to grow as high as it likes, drawing the goodness from the soil, and the tree stands pro- tected from one enemy to do battle with another. A. Hereington. Variegrated Cucumber tree (Magnolia acumi- nata).— I have not seen a variegated foim of this Magnolia, and I conclude that it is either very rare or does not exist in this country. A well-marked variegated foini, however, exists in America, evi- dence of which I have in some very fine leaves sent to me some time ago by the late Mr. Hovey, of Boston. The largest of these leaves measures 11 inches in length by il inches in breadth. The variegation consists of bold blotches and bands of creamy white, and the green being dark the contrast is effective, and reminds me strongly of that of the variegated form of Polygonum nioUe. A large tree of this variegated Magnolia must indeed have a fme appear- ance.— W. G. The Patagonian Cypress (Fitzroja pata- gonica). — I was rather surprised the other day to see how well this somewhat uncommon coniferous tree is thriving in Mrs. Robb's garden at Chiltley, Liphook, where the situation is not altogether suit- able for tender trees. The specimens are very healthy, of a deep green, and seem to be quite at home. None of them, however, have made a leader, but form an irregular and rather spreading dense liiass. The branches and twigs have an elegant way of arranging t hemselves in half-drooping masses, thus rendering this variety different from other Conifers. Though it thrives fairly well in a few places, it is not to be recommended for general plant- ing. I have seen it growing well on the south coast on almost pure chalk, but I think that the soil, if not too stiff, does not influence it much. — W. G. Ivies in pots. — Very handsome and effective specimens of Ivies used to be grown in pots, as they could be turned to good account in cold houses in winter, and duiing summer and autumn were most useful for terraces, k^., in the open air. For some reason they are not so much cultivated now in this way, and yet, when well grown and covered with nice fresh foliage, they are really very effective. Mr. C. Turner was famous for the fine specimens he grew some twenty years ago, and I think a revival of his method of growing them in the form of handsome cones is desirable. A few of the most useful varieties for this purpose are Hedera ele- gantitsima, the leaves small, and unequally mar- gined with red and jellow ; algeriensis, a very fine form, with large, robui-t, shining green leaves; major, the leaves small and veined with cream ; minor, in the same way as the preceding, but with smaller leaves ; lucida, the shining dark green leaves having blotches of paler green , lobata major, with regularly lobed green leaves of medium size ; grandiflora arborescens, a Tree Ivy with vigorous foliage ; grandiflora latifolia maculata, the bold leaves splashed and spotted with creamy yellow ; and marmorata major, a small-leaved kind, with veins and dashes of pale yellow. It need scarcely be added that, in order to have Ivies in good form by the end of summer, the pots in which the plants are growing should be plunged up to their rims in some suitable material and the soil kept moist. I have seen Ivies in pots keep in good character in hot and drying positions in summer, through each pot being placed within a larger one, and filling up the vacuum by ramming in firmly between the pots Moss or Cocoa fibre. Not long since I saw a stretch of brick wall, some 5 feet in height, that had been planted its whole length with Ivies, the various types being intermingled, and the effect was charming, more particularly in the depth of winter. — K. D. ■Varieties of Cnpressus Lawsoniana. — There is a fact particularly interesting to me in the notes upon these by "H. P." in The Gaeden, Feb- ruary 11 (p. 128). He says that while the erecta viridis variety is the easiest to propagate, the most diflioult is the loose-growing form intertexta. Now this is singularly in contrast to the behaviour of these two forms after transplantation, for while I find that erecta viridis is a difiicult plant to trans- plant in a large state, C. intertexta and other loose- growing varieties may be transplanted most success- fully. Two years ago I had occasion to transplant a large number of Conifers of considerable size, among them being numerous forms of Lawson's Cypress, and the result was that only 50 per cent, of the erecta viridis withstood the moving, while the others were almost all successfully moved. Many of the erecta viridis specimens did not die outright, but turned rusty half-way down, the lower part remain- ing green, but, of course, as specimens they were useless. Some of the looser-growing forms were 20 feet high, and lived through the terrible drought of last summer, and are doing well. My experience with erecta viridis is just the same with trees from nurseries. It seems to transplant best when of a size ranging from li feet to 3 feet (i inches in height. It is singular that there should be so much difference of constitution in plants springing from the same parent. The behaviour of large trees and shrubs after having been transplanted Is of im- portance, and information thereon will, I am sure, be welcomed by all interested in them. — W. G. The Mezereon shaded or exposed.— I thank both my friend Louis Kropatsch and " A. D. W." for the attention they have given to my note in The Garden, Jan. 7 (p. 2), concerning this shrub. M, Kropatsch's note is interesting to me, as I learn from it that the Spurge Laurel (D Laureola) and the Mezereon grow both in rather shaded woods in the Austrian Alps. But I beg of "A. D. W." not to be too rash in assuming that I made a mistake in stating that the Mezereon dislikes being over- shadowed by other growth. If he will take the trouble to observe for himself, he will, I think, find that the Mezereon does thrive best in the open, not- withstanding the fact that it grows naturally in shade. I was led to make observations upon the subject after reading some years ago Loudon's re- marks on the subject in his "Arboretum," vol. iii , p. 1303. He there states, in speaking of the Meze- reon : " It thrives best in a loamy soil and in an open situation." Knowing that it is usually planted in shady places, I was struck with this remark, and since then have observed that the best Mtzereons are almost always in the open, as then they ripen their wood better than in shade, and consequently flower better. Therefore, I repeat that the Mezereon should not be planted in shade. It may flourish in another country in the shade where the summers are hotter, but in this country it is a different matter. Because a plant grows wild under certain conditions, it does not follow that a strict imitation of those conditions in a northern climate is the right course to follow in the cultivation of the plant. If such were the case, we should have to modify considerably our present methods of cultivating a large number of exotics. My observations are not confined to our "great public garden," as I have the Feb. -2.1, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 179 opportunity of seeing many gardens far and wide, and of observing the conditions under which open-air plants thrive or otherwise, but Kew being a public garden so near London, it is natural to direct atten- tion to what may be seen there. As to the instance " A. D. W." mentions of a Chili Pine " struggling beneath the shade of trees at Kew," I ask him, in how many gardens or estates of similar extent (250 acres) is every tree planted according to his own notions of right and wrong? — W. Goldbikg, Glou- cesier Itoad, Ken\ The Chilian Yew, or Plum-fruited Yew as Prumnopitys elegans is called, cannot be much known, or I am sure that such a beautiful shrub would be much oftener seen than it is. At one time I did not think much of it, but since I have seen it growing in several gardens luxuriantly, and making such a handsome feature, I have altered my opinion, and include it among the choicest of Conifers of small growth. From books we learn that it grows into a good-sized tree, 10 feet or ."JO feet high, in its native home in the mountains of Southern Chili, but I have never seen it more than a thrub in this country, the tallest I have measured being between (J feet and 7 feet high. It is something like our common Yew, but is easily recognised by its foliage being of a duller, if not of a deeper green, aid by the irregu- larity of the leaves, which are whitish on their under surfaces. The leaves as well as the branches are very abundant, and the tree generally assumes a symmetrical pyramid-like habit, not unlike that of Abies Hookeri and A. Pattoniana. It likes shelter from north winds, and from what I have observed as to its growth on various soils, it appears to prefer a stiffish, if not a clayey soil. Last week I saw it growing luxuriantly in Mr. Waterhouse's beautiful tree garden at Upcroft, in Berkshire, and there the soil at a spit deep is a heavy clay, yet a large number — I might say the majority — of coniferous trees grow with unusual vigour upon it. — G. The Kaidia Barberry is the name given long ago by Lindley to Berberis asiatica, and an appro- priate name it is, as the berries are covered with a glaucous bloom just like that on raisins. This Bar- berry is not so frequently seen as its relative, B. aristata. I wonder it is not more used as a covert plant, as it grows so strongly in any kind of soil and sends up a multitude of strong suckers. I saw this Barberry in fine condition in Mrs. Robbs garden at Chiltley the other week, and I do not remember ever seeing it so large. She has numbers of specimens 7 feet or 8 feet high, and so dense that one can hardly see through them. Judging by the remains of last season's crop of berries, this Barberry must have a pretty effect when in perfection of fruit, the oval berries being the size of Peas and hanging in short clusters. It is a native of the Himalayas; whereas B. aristata comes from Nepaul. Both are thoroughly hardy, very strong growers, and in- different as to quality of the soil, provided it is not rank clay. Though both seed freely in this country and are olherwi.se much propagated, I find that out of eight tree and shrub nursery catalogues to which I have referred, these Barberries are only men- tioned in one, and that a foreign one. It is not surprising then that shrubs like this should be so uncommon when they cannot be easily obtained in the usual way.— G. SB OUT NOTES.— IMJCMS AND SHRUBS. Pambusa Veitchi- — ^I- Carrifere.ln thQRevue Horticole, praise.s this Jiamboo, and sjyditis likely to prove a ustful and hardy plant. Eapiil growth of G-im Tree.— I have a stem of Eucilyptus globulus two years from seed measuiing at 3 feet from the groTird l.'i inches iu circumfeienee. It whs gtown at AutibfS (Alpes-Maritimeb) by M. Henri de Vilmorin.— LHABLEs Bates. A noblo Oak lea.t. — Apropos ol Oak leaves, I enclose the facsimile r>f one I gatnered iu my garden in Kent in 1S7l' from a shoot which had sptung up from a young cut-down tree of Que'cus ruber. It is the largest leaf I ev.-r s»w. It was spread out on paper, aud cut exactly. — A. R., U\mi(r- merK *^^ TheOakle^f referred to above was of handsome form a^d mtasured I'^j inches long by S iuchts wide. — Ed. The Ccljhic Bladder-nut (Staphyleacolchica) hag for the past few yiars been a favourite shrub among gardeners for foicing early into bloom. The clusters of snow-white flowers, in contrast with the tender green foliage, make it very beautiful, and quite different from the commoner Deutzia gracilis, double Chinese Plum (Prunus chinensis fl.-pl.), Lilac and others. The plants should be induced to make a quantity of (lowering shoots, which should be thoroughly ripened out of doors during the previous summer and autumn. A good crop of bloom from properly prepared plants may be thus ensured at the present time in company with other forced shrubs, such as Cydonia Maulei, double Chinese Plum; it helps to make the conservatory (No. 4) at Kew particularly gay. AZALEA MOLLIS. This Azalea is very suitable for forcing into bloom, and a great point in its favour is the fact that no special attention is needed in order to obtain spocimens adapted for this purpose. Of course, in selecting plants for forcing, care must be taken to see that they are well set with flower-buds, and with regard to this no mis- take need arise, as they stand forth very promi- nently on the ends of the shoots. Provided the plants are well attended to during the summer, especially in the matter of water, they may be kept in pots aLd Uowered under glass year after year, while, on the oiher hand, fresh plants may be ob- tained for forcingevery year, and after the fiowrers are past, the plants may be hardened off and ultimately planted out. This Azalea is by no means difficult to obtain in the shape of neat little bushes available for forcing, as, betides the vast numbers that are grown by our English nurserymen, enormous quan- tities are every year imported from the Continent. There is a wide range of colour mw to be found among the recognised varieties of this Azalea, and even in the case of a batch of seedlings there is a vast difference between them, not only in the colour of the flower, but also in the shape thereof, pro- fusion of blooming, habit of plant, and in the autumnal tints of the foliage. This last is very noticeable at that season, for some die off an in- tensely bright crimson, others a dull brownish hue, many of them different shades of yellow, while a few retain their green tint till they drop. The name! varieiies are propagated either by layers, by grafting, or by seedlings, tlii-i last being the method usually employed, as seeds readily ripen from which young plants in quantity can be raised. Those that flower early in the season, if they are established plants and the blooms are artirtcially fertilised, wid, before the summer is far advanceb. 4 (p. lOG), re.'peciirg it. The trees must have grown very quickly, seeing that one is :!8 feet high, though planted only forty years. This is, as Mr. Coleman may be aware, one of the Oaks of doubtful origin, and is supposed to be a hybrid between the British Oak, Q. pedunculata, and Q. Ilex. No matter what its origin is, it is a grand evergreen tree, and it is a pity that one cannot buy decent .specimens of it at a fair pi ice. It is, in fact, one of the trees nursery- men tell jou there is no dtmand for. As to Q. austiiaca i-empervirens being inferior, I cannot Evergreen — that is, its foliage turns rusty in spring but it is a very cheerful light green throughout the winter. Then, again, its symmetrical globular head, so dense and compact, renders it a favourite with some people. As to the identity of what is generally known as Q. austriaca sempervirens with what is named at Kew Q. glandulifera, I have no doubt that the two names are synonymous, and that Q. glandulifera is a new name for an old and well-known tree— known well in Loudon's time, and long before. I have come to this conclusion since I wrote the note to which Mr. Coleman refer? . His praise of Q. Ilex Fordi is thoroughly deserved, it being, I think, the most desirable of all the forir s of Q. ilex. I wish nurserymen would pay moie attention to these Evergreen Oaks than they do. They are, of course, among the most difficult to manage during their nursery career; but I believe if some means could be devised whereby one could get good plants with their roots, not twisted like corkscrews in small pots, no one who wanted the trees would mind paying a good price for them. The miserable specimens one gets as a rule from nurseries deter people from planting them — W. G. Prunua sinensis flore-pleno. — This is an ex- tremely pretty little shrub, and one that may be readily forced into bloom early in the season, at which time its slender twigs, densely studded with pretty little rosette-like blossoms, are much admired. It forms a dwarf, but upright-growing and much- branched shrub, and if frequently transplanted when young, neat, well-furnished specimens may be put in pots (i inches in diameter. The plants may be grown in pots year after year, or planted out and lifted when required for forcing purposes. The plants do best if lifted in the autumn just before the leaves fall, and if potted at once they may be plunged in a sheltered spot either in coal ashes. Cocoa-nut refuse, or decayed leaves. There are a couple of varieties, in one of which the little double blossoms are pure white, and in another tinged with pink. The pink form is not only very pretty when under glass, but it also forms a very ornamental shrub when in the open ground, and is well suited for association with small - growing subjects. This shrub will thrive well trained to a low wall, in which position the blossoms are sheltered from spring frosts, which sometimes injure the flowers when in the open ground. Another capital wall plant, and a near ally of this last, is Prunus triloba, which is available for forcing equally with the other. The blooms of this, which are, when first expanded, of a beautiful bright rose colour, but paler before they drop, are semi-double, and the branches are clothed with them for a considerable distance. This shrub is also occasionally met with under the name of Amygdalopsis Lindley i—H. P. agree with Mr. Coleman, as it is hardly to be compared with it, seeing that it is not a true | the shoots are well above the soil, when air is given MARKET GARDEN NOTES. Favoured by mild, open weather, work is being rapidly pushedforward, manuring, ploughing and digging being well advanced for the time of year. Green crops are beingcleared off as rapidly as pos- sible, and instead of a scarcity, as was predicted last summer, the markets are well supplied with all kinds of green vegetables in excellent condition, and at much lower prices than prevailed any time last summer. The sowing of Peas and Broad Beans, and the planting of Cabbages, Lettuces, and Onions have been done on land in capital condition. Frames and hotbeds are being put in order for the comirg season. The main crops being brought forward under glass are Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Cauliflowers, and Lettuce plants ; these are sown in pots or boxes, and grown on in warm pits or houses until large enough to harden off for frame or outdoor culture. Those who grow flowers undtr fruit tret s are now gtttir g a good supply of "V'iolets, that aie tied in small bunches and sold to gieengrocers and florists. Good supplies of forced Rhubarb and Seakale are now coming io, and there is a ready sale for Green Mifit. This is one of the easiest things to grow, and repays forcing better than many crops that re- quire far more attention. I put the plants on a slight bottnm-heat, and keep the frame close until 180 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. freely on mild days. A vast quantity of bunches of Mint is obtained from a very small space, the only thing the plant seems to require being a fresh site every year, and as it increases as rapidly as Couch Grass, this can be eTsilv e'vpn it. J. G. H. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Pear Olivier de Serres. — Mr. Geo. Bunyard senda us fruits of this Pear. There is something in the Pear, but it is a little uncertain. It deserves careful trial and report, and is not (as are many Pears sent us) devoid of all delicacy of flavour. The Plum-coloured Christmas Rose (Helle- borus oolchicus). — Messrs. Smith, of Worcester, who, we are glad to see, are giving much attention to hardy iiowers, send us a fine box of flowers of this Hellebore. It is a very useful and beautiful variety, flowering as it does during all this inclement weather. Dendrobium nobile. — We have received from Mr. A. McDonald, Tayside Gardens, Perth, a photo- graph of a fine specimen of Dendrobium nobile, smothered with its brightly coloured flowers. There are few Orcliids to surpass this old favourite for beauty and usefulness. Two Grapes. — Mr. Goodacre (who was my first foreman here) has sent me a couple of photographs of Grapes Gros Colman and Mrs. Pearson, and I think them 80 good that I have sent them on to you by parcels post. Mrs. Pearson is a noble Grape, and does well here. The bunch figured in Mr. Barron's Vine book came from here. — W. WiLD.sMrrH. Draba baeotlca, an interesting hardy flower, is in bloom in a cold frame at Broxbourne, and is entitled to consideration, as it is of a distinct character. It blooms from the centre of the hairy rosettes, and has rich golden yellow flowers that are very effective at this season. It is grown in a pot, with pieces of sand- stone placed round the collar of the plant, to keep the soil in a nice state of moisture. Galanthus Sharlocki is a pretty and distinct Snowdrop, now conspicuous on the rockery in the nur- sery of Messrs. Paul at Broxbourne. It has compara- tively broad, glaucous foliage, and the nodding flower comes from between two upright pointed leaves, which terminate a stout stem. In size it is similar to the common Snowdrop of the fields, but the segments have each a blotch of green at the base. It is an interest- ing kind for the lover of Snowdrops. Early Daffodils from Cork. — I send you owers of common double Daffodils picked in the open at Glengarriffe, Co. Cork, this day (Feb. 17). Is this considered early, or can the Cornish climate approach it ? The Crocus bloom is nearly over. I should think that the flowers of Daffodils that one sees in Covent Garden at this early period have been forced. — R. M. F. TowNSEND, Stone View, Blarney. *»* The Scilly Islands, off the Cornish coast, pro- dace the earliest Daffodils, and many of those now seen in the markets come from there. — Ed. liSelia superbiens. — I have two plants of this Lselia in bloom. One spike has fourteen flowers, each from 5 inches to (i inches across, and a stem 6 feet in length from the crown of the bulb to the base of the spike ; it may well be called tlie Wand of St. Joseph. Anollier plant has a stem 4 feet long and a spike of ten flowers. The flowering bulb of this plant is strong. The flowering bulb of the larger specimen is a, comparatively speaking, mere elongation of the stem. I had these plants direct from Guatemala some years ago, and they have yielded spikes of bloom now for a series of years. It is well worth a place in the intermediate house, lasts long in bloom, and is valuable for decoration in many positions. — P. Middlkton, \\ ijiiJixtaij. An early Saxifrage. — One of the earliest of the Saxifrages to bloom is S. Sancta, but one named S. Frederic! Augusti, now a mass of flowers on the Broxbourne rockery, is still earlier, as it commences its gay career before .January is out. The flowers are very plentiful, pale sulphur-yellow in colour, and borne in snjall clusters on stems 2 or 'A inches high. It is quite hardy, and at this season makes a pretty pot plant. The chief points of difference between this and Sancta are its denfer growth, greiter freedom of flowering, and slightly encrusted leaves. The latter Saxifrage was growing tide by side with the newer form, but while this was a mass of flower the buds of the other were only just peeping through the dense mat- like growth. Ardieia mamillata. — This is a new addition to stove berry-bearing plants, and it gives promise of becoming at least as useful as the old — one might almost write neglected — A. crenulata. A plant of the new one was shown at the last meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society by the Messrs. Veitch, and was awarded a first- class certificate. It was introduced to Kew by means of seeds from Hong- Kong, and a batch of healthy plants may now be seen in one of the houses there. The leaves are pale green, curiously puckered all over the surface, and a silky hair springs from the top of each point or mamse, whence the specific name. It has an erect unbranched stem, thickly clad with hori- zontal leaves, which are 4 inches long by li inches wide; the flowers are borne on horizontal stalks in bunches, and they are succeeded by scarlet berries, brighter than those of A. crenulata. For stove decoration in winter this well-berried plant will be found useful. It requires plenty of moisture always. — W. Narcissus cyclamineu'. — I was much struck with the elegant beauty of this charming and most free-blooming miniature Narcissus when I saw, in the window of one of our leading seedsmen and florists in the city of Cork,'a large panful of it con- taining over 100 bulbs, almost all of them in full flower. I was additionally surprised to learn from the proprietor that these bulbs which were blooming so well were most of them so small (many of them not much larger than a pea) that no one would buy them from him the previous autumn, thinking them too small to bloom. As this little gem is perfectly hardy, it should prove a great ac- quisition to our gardens. — W. E. G. A variegated hardy plant that makes a distinct feature on the border or rockery at the present season, when there are few flowers to give colour to the garden, is the variegated form of the common Madonna Lily, named Lilium candidum aureo - marginatum. The growth is robust and the leaves plentiful, these having a band of green down the centre, broadly margined with rich yellow. A few plants on a border at Broxbourne are very bright and cheerful, and as an ornamental pot plant for the greenhouse it is of no small value during the winter. There are a few hardy flowers that may be grown for the sake of their foliage alone, and this is one of the number. Aerides vandarum. — This is a species one seldom sees in cultivation. It is, however, included in the Burford Lodge collection, where a fine plant is now bearing fourteen of its large pure white flowers. It was at first called a white Vanda teres, and has been grown in English gardens, and figured in the llotanieal Magazine under the erroneous name of Aerides cylindricum. It does not readily conform to cultivation in this country, but (he specimen referred to appears to bs growing vigorously upon a Teak wood raft suspended against a wall in the East India house, where it gets frequent sprinklings from the syringe, saving when in bloom. It does not appear to require much Moss about its roots. — W. H. G. Notes from Howth.— I visited "St. Brigid's" deserted garden yesterday. The Alexandrian Laurel (Ruscus racemosus), 4 feet high, is lovely — clean glossy foliage splendid for big vases. The Lenten Roses are fine, especially the spotted Berlin hybrids. The finest of all the wild kinds is H. colchicus, with dark claret-coloured flowers and bronzy purple foliage. A specimen sur- rounded with Snowdrops in an irregular ring was lovely. Iris stylosa was flowering freely, and the plants of Christmas Roses— seedlings from the noble St. Brigid var. — were still jielding a few good late flowers, although, of course, the best and largest are over. Romneya Coulteri is growing like a weed ; so also graceful Bamboos beside an old wall, and Abutilon vilifolium is growing into a tree and flowers well here every year. At Mr. Riall's place near Bray there is a small tree of this Abutilon 20 feet high, and it bears great clusters of its pale mauve, Meconopsis-like flowers every summer. One of the neatest and most distinct of hardy Ever- greens in " St. Brigid's " garden is Pittosporum un- dulatum, or is it P. Mayi ? for I cannot find any satisfactory distinction between these reputed kinds. It forms a dense bush 6 feet to 8 feet high, and defies the rough gales which blow in here from the sea. Sisyrinchium grandiflorum grows and flowers and seeds about here like a weed. It is now very lovely, its purple bells dangling among the pure white Snowdrops. The Anemones are throwing up their great double flowers, and Narcissus Tazetta floribundus, with leaves like those of a Leek, is fast coming into bloom. I have seen single scapes of this fine variety bearing from twelve to eighteen flowers each in the deep, rich soil of this seaside garden. Anemone fulgens, with Narcissus pallidus prsecox amongst it, is coming into bloom, and a clump of Galanthus Elwesi bore flower-buds an inch long, and over half an inch in diameter at their widest part. Primroses and Polyanthuses suffered here, as elsewhere, during last summer's heat and drought, but they are now coming into flower, as also the double yellow Daffodils. To-day (Sunday) has been very stormy, wind, hail, sleet, jnow, &c., but the latter does not lie long here. We had 14° of frost one night this week. — F. W. Buebidge. Iris Botenbachiana. — This is the most beau- tiful of the early-flowering kinds, and apparently the most hardy. We have had a week of severe cold and frost this season, and this Iris has opened during it and without any protection. It is very dwarf in habit, and fourth in the order of flowering — Histrio, reticulata, reticulata cyanea, Rosenbach- iana. You will be able to describe its colour com- bination much better than I can, a by no means easy task. — T. SiriTH, Xen-rij. *tf* A very bright flower, pale lavender with dark purple lip, but with a very rich yellow band going far down the limb. A beautiful thing ! DracfFna Cantleyi. — This is a new addition to the true Dracienas, but, so far as is known, the plant at Kew is the only one in English gardens. It was sent to Kew some years ago by Mr. Cantley, the superintendent of the Singapore Botanic Gar- dens, and it is now flowering for the first time. The flowers are of no account, being small, greenish white, and crowded on an erect, terminal-branched spike. The leaves are. however, attractive, owing to the surface being marked with large pale green spots on a deep green ground. The spots suggest the markings on a mackerel's back. The length of the leaves is about 3 feet, by about 4 inches in width. For large stoves this Dracaena ought to be- come a favourite, as the peculiar marking on the leaves is noteworthy ; the plant, too, forms a hand- some specimen. riowers from the south of Ireland. — I send you a gathering from the open air at Temple Hill, including the following flowers : Iris reticu- latus, Helleborus (Riverston vaiiety), of which we have been cutting since November ; Daffodil Ard- Righ, Narcissus pallidus pr:ecox, N. Telamonius plenus, and Paper-white, fmall varieties. From the cold bouse I enclose Primula obconica. Nar- cissus capax or Queen Anne, N. poeticus angusti- folius, and N. pr:vcox of Italy. I did not grow ornatus, which is much earlier. We are having dreadful weather now with snow and north wind. — W. B. H. *^* Fresh and charming blossoms, nearly all sweet. We wish the perennial Irish question were .IS welcome. — Ed. Hardy Cyclamens make bright patches of col- our on the rockery now, and thewonder is thatthefe miniature gems are not used more for givirg colour to the h.ardy garden, whrn there is little else but the nodding Snowdrops in bloom. C. Coum is one of the richest, the neat, small, deep crimson flowers appearing just above the heart-shaped leaves. A frameful of C. Atkinsi was in bloom at Broxbourne. and when merely protected from frosts, the flowers have a surprising freshness and beauty. There are several forms of the latter, the best-known being roseum, rubrum, and album. On large rockeries where there are many little recesses and nooks splendid opportunities for making a natural display with these early February flowers.are given. They grow under ordinary conditions, and Feb. 25, 1888.] THE GARDEN. 181 a few might be grown in pans for the enrichment of the greenhouse. OdontoglosButtt ramosissitnum. — This is not a common species, thougli it has been intro- duced many years, and has flowers that if not showy are extremely beautiful owing to their delicate colours. The leaves are long, and a well- grown plant will bear a large panicle crowded with small flowers that have narrow sepals and petals, wholly pure white, except a tinge of lilac- mauve at the base of the latter ; the lip is crested at the apex, and also white. It is one of the best of the small-flowered Odontoglossums flowering in winter. A good specimen was blooming recently in the collection of Mr. Lee, Downside. Cydonia lHaulel forced into bloom early i^ one of the most delightful shrubs one can have in a greenhouse, the colour of the flowers being diffe- rent from that of other flowers. The contrast of the orange-red or, as some call it, brick-red blooms with the bright tender green foliage is charming. In the greenhouse at Kew there is a group of it, the bushes having their long slender branches wreathed with flowers and leaves. It would be a great boon to many gardeners at this season who wish to intro- duce as much variety of colour as they can into their conservatories. It is easily forced ; the chief point to observe is, not to begin to force it too early or in too high a temperature. Well-rooted bushes are necessary, and those that have been grown fully exposed during the previous summer flower most freely. The only colour that approaches that of Maule's Quince is that of Azalea mollis. Societies and Exhibitions. ROYAL HORTICULTURAL. Scientific Committee. Orchids. — Mr. O'Brien remarked on a so-called MasdevaUia culex, but which is really Pleurothallis Barbareana, bearing minute delicate flowers. A Dendrobium Kingianum var. albidum was also exhibited. The inflorescence bore eighteen flowers. The original specimen, figured in the Botanical Magazine, 1810, No. lil, bears pink flowers, and in the description two only are said to have then been the average number. It is refigured, in 1850, in the Botanical Magazine, No. 4527. Wallflower, monstrous. — Mr. Henslow reported npon the specimens exhibited by Mr. Lynch at the last meeting, known as " Miss Hope's." They were not gynantherous, but a form of " double " flowers. The calyx was normal, but contained more or less than ten petals, that is to say, the usual four, and six others representing the stamens. Instead of a pistil, the axis was prolonged, and terminated with a double flower, having a normal calyx, but a corolla of an indefinite mass of petals. This case, there- fore, resembled the double form of Helianthemum vulgare, only in that flower the caJjx and corolla are repeated three or four times. Honey from Bucalijptus globulus. — A specimen had been sent from Adelaide, S.Australia, to Mr. T. Christy, as possessing similar properties to those of the tree itself, being, for example, antiseptic in its nature. It is found to be very efficacious in cases of lung disease. The honey can only be procured every other year, as the tree flowers biennially. One pe- culiarity is that, though liquid on arrival, it rapidly crystallises in this climate. It has a very peculiar flavour and scent. "Jamhul," Biif/enia Jambolana. — Mr. T. Christy sent a growing plant as well as seeds of this import- ant drug. Its peculiarity resides in the power of its seeds to arrest the conversion of starch into sugar; hence its value in diabetes. The seed ap- pears to contain about 31-4 per cent, of oil and ■l.i'2 per cent, of ash ; also yellow-green resin and a crystalline principle are present. Experiments with starch and malt extract, with and without jambul, showed that while 22 4 grains were converted into sugar where no jambul was present, only !i'8 grains were charged with 15 grains of the seed ; and G 3 grains of starch became sugar with 25 grains of jambul. It is now used very extensively in America and Germany, and has begun to be employed in England apparently with very beneficial results. From a preliminary analysis, the seed does not appear to contain any starch, and therefore the question arises whether the particular ferment which emulsifies oils in seeds may not generally have a sort of anti-diastatic action. Further details will be found in No. 10 of Med. Com. PI. atid Drugs, by Mr. Christy. Oranges, cultivation of, in IJngland. — Mr. T. Christy contributed the following remarks upon Orange growing: "In discussing the question of Orange growing in this country with Dr. Amadeus, he tells me how much has been done by grafting in Porto Rico. He recommends the graft to be made on the strong stems, and the plants do so much better when not grafted too young. With regard to the transport of the fruit, he believes that the fifteen days' sea journey will be fatal to the quality and flavour of the thin-skinned Oranges, so that it would be better to send some cases of plants of the best varieties for growth in houses here. Since the receipt of the large shipment from Bahia many growers have bought stock of the Orange trees, with the view of so doing. It only remains for the com- mercial question to be threshed out. One grower informed me that he got so much juice in his fruit that it burst in ripening; so this fact sets at rest the question of hard 'woody fruits' only being produced in this country. Mr. H. Dixon, of Cherkley Court, Leatherhead, has two Orange trees, each bearing more than 200 fruits ; and from his Pomeloes he says that he is able to make a delicious preserve. With regard to foreign fruit, a captain in the Mediterranean trade tells me that from his experi- ence in collecting Oranges in most parts of the world where they are grown, he believes the palm for delicately flavoured varieties must be awarded to those from Malta. This he attributes to the great care bestowed in their cultivation. When attend- ing the display of fruit at the Agricultural Show in Paris every year, I have been struck with the fine exhibitions of thesefruits together with Citrons and Limes from Algeria ; and I was informed that the French government obtained thence the best varie- ties for their botanical gardens, and that the trees were in full bearing." A fine series of home-grown Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, and kindred fruits was exhibited by Mr. Rivers, who has cultivated them for the last twenty years. Mr. Michael corroborated the difficulty of importing Oranges from Bahia — one of the best Orange-growing districts. THE UNITED HORTICULTURAL BENEFIT AND PROVIDENT SOCIETY. This most useful institution— one that ofiers pecu- liar advantages to young gardeners — is a benefit society and a savings bank combined, the payments not being more than in the case of ordinary benefit societies whose members have no claim upon the surplus funds. The payment of 6d. per week, or 26s. per year, ensures lOs. 6d. weekly in case of sickness ; the payment of Ud. weekly, or 3tis, per year, ensuring Itis. weekly. A small payment is made annually to the benevolent fund, and all pay 2s. 6d. annually to the management fund, and for the present all that the secretary receives for the discharge of his onerous duties is any balance re- maining over from the management fund at the close of the year. When a member is wholly unable by sickness to work, he is entitled to full sick pay ; a proportion of the sick pay is paid even when he can do a little work. From the benevolent fund extra allowances are made in special cases and to meet accidents, &c. The overplus of the society is divided among the members every year, and is invested in the public funds, and there is at the present time a sum of £4000 invested in three-per- cent, consols. Each member has a separate account; the growing fund, with interest added yearly, is payable to the nominee of a member upon his death, or it can be drawn by himself at the age of seventy years. Even should a member cease to subscribe, he does not, as in the case of ordinary benefit societies, lose what he has paid, but it is handed over to his nominee at his death. It is a most deserving institution, encouraging thrift among young gardeners. There is a class of honorary mem- bers who subscribe one guinea per annum, and the sums so obtained are carried to the benevolent fund. Gentlemen interested in the society can render it efficient assistance by becoming honorary members. The annual meeting of this society took place at the Caledonian Hotel, Adelphi, on Monday evening, the 13th inst., Mr. Richard Dean, one of the honorary members, in the chair, a considerable number of members being present. The annual report of the committee set forth that the society had made rapid growth during the year, fifty ordi- nary and sixteen honorary members having joined. One of the oldest members, William Heale, late of Hereford, had died, and the sum paid to his widow at his death was very nearly £50, and he had re- ceived a further sum of £18 odd as sick pay. The total amount of sick pay for the i ear was £61, but two or three exceptional cases had made this sum higher than usual. During the year a further sum of £350 of Government Stock had been purchased. The society celebrated its twenty-first anniversaiy in October last by a dinner, at which Mr. Harry .T. Veitch presided, and the committee bear testimony to the great service rendered to the society by Mr. Veitch on that occasion. The gardening papers gave full reports of the dinner, and as a result many ap- plications for membership had been made. The treasurer's balance-sheet showed a total income of £603 16s. and an expenditureof £512 5s. 5d,, a balance of £91 Os. 7d. being carried forward, the amount of the working expenses being very low for a society of this character. The secretary is Mr. W. Collins, 5, Martinhoe Terrace, Martindale Road, Balham, S.W. Weather in Kildare.— Hardy flowers are haviEg a bad lime of it, as for the past seven days we have had from 10° to IS' of frost eveiy night and no sign of change.— I'. BliDFORD, Strajfian. Christmas Kose St. Brigid.— Would some one of your readers kindly say where Helleborus St. Brigid can be procured true to name ?— G. T. Tufted Pansies. — I wish to plant a ribbon bor- der of about half a mile in length, and should be glad to have the names of three varieties of Viola or Pansies — dark blue, yellow, and white— most suitable for the purpose. 'They should be compact, free-flowering, and hright-coloui-ed. — A Si'bsceiber, Cornicall. Culti (nation of aquatics.— In connection with the botanical pond at Howietown, I have built a hot-house for aquatics, so arranged as to give any required depth of water. The overflow is taken from the bottom. The house is to be heated by hot-water pipes above the surface of the water. Should hot-water pipes be laid in the water also ? There is a ledge 30 inches from the surface, extending to within 6 feet of the centre, which could be utilised, or pipes could be laid at a depth of 5 feet from the surface of the water. It is desired to have the power of studying tropical and sub- tropical aquatics, but the house would be used principally for wintering semi-hardy aquatics for bedding-out in summer. The arrangements admit of two distinct water temperatures. If hot-water pipes are required under water, should they be of copper?— J. R. G. Maitland. BOOKS RECEIVED. Part 1 of the new issue of " Cassell's Popular Gardening." Bulletin of Miscellaneous Information. Ivo. 11: List of Seeds of Herbaceous Plants. Royal Gardeus Kew. List of Seeds available for Distribution. From the Cambridge Botanic Garden. Names of plants. — ,4. J/.— Cannot name florists' Howers. Vulcan. — Sophrouitis grandiflora. Names of fruit. — Newark. — Beurre Ranee. F. lleil ford.— Lewis's Incomparable. A Ten Years' Siihscriher.—lo,oO,S2,56, King of the Pippins; 27, Sheep's-nose ; 17, Worcester Pearmain ; 23, Welling- ton ; 4G, Minohal Crab ; 37, Mere de Menage ; 13, Cellini; 55, Old Nonpareil; Pear Chaurooutel. 182 THE GARDEN. [Feb. 25, 1888. WOODS & FORESTS. PRUNING. When pruuing is properly canietl out and con- ducted on rational piinciples, tlie results ob- tained promote tlie growth and formation of timber in tlie stem, and consequently increase the value of the tree. On the other hand, when the art is but imperfectly understood and the work conducted upon wjong principles, much harm and loss result. Some tell us not to prune at all, but to leave it to Nature ; others advise us to prune only in winter when the trees are at rest ; others reconnnend pruning in spring ; while others say the best time ii summer and autumn. Such testimony is of so conflictuig a nature, that one is apt to get bewildered. AVriters, therefore, upon this subject would do well to give a brief, concise statement of their reasons for performing the operation at the different seasons of the year. In dealing with a mixed plantation of young trees I found that some of the Oaks had been barked around the collars of the plants by rabbits, while others had their leaders cut off by hares, the conse- quence being that the stems of the former died and a number of young suckers sprang from the roots, while the latter produced several leaders, Now, had these been left to Nature, the plants would have assumed the shape of mere bushes ; whereas by pruning oft' the super- fluous shoots the nucleus of a tree was formed, thus proving the theory of leaving the trees to Nature to be illusory and defective. The best time to perform the pruning in this case is the month of June, as then the whole energy of the plant is directed into the stem left for the future tree, and under ordinary circumstances the plants will have attained a good size by autumn. On the other hand, when the work is done during winter there is always a risk that some of the shoots and branches left to form the leader and stem would be cut or destroyed by vermin before spring ; whereas by leaving the whole of the shoots tillJune, the risk is lessened and the best can be selected and the others cut away. It is seldom that ail the shoots and branches are destroyed on a plant, so, that the advantage of this system can be easily under- stood. Young trees of the Ash, Elm, Alder, Labur- num, Beech and Lime may be treated in the same way, while trees of the Spanish Chestnut, Birch, Maple, Plane, and Sycamore had better be left till the month of August, as they are apt to bleed when pruned in spring or early summer. When young trees are managed in this way they soon get established, and the after management, as regards pruning, is principally to remove rival leaders by cutting them oft' close to the stem before they have attained a large size, and in doing so care should be taken to leave the surface of the wound smooth and sloping. Liirge, unwieldy side branches should be cut back, in order to preserve a proper balance of the top and lessen the risk of fracture by wind, and in doing so the part to be removed should be cut ott' close at the base of a lateral twig. In tliis way trees of medium size, with the exception of such as are apt to bleed, as already noticed, may be pruned in June and July, and wlien the work is done at this season tbe wound begins to heal at once, and I have never seen any bad results follow. On the other hand, when trees are pruned during winter the bare wound gets bleached and dry, and by the months of March and April the surface presents a series of cracks and fissures which imbibe and retain water. Leaders and branches that have been torn ott by the wind during a storm should have the wounds properly dressed by paring oft' to the solid timber all the fragments and splinters of wood. When tuch wounds are of considerable size, and in cases where the bark has been torn oft' by the stem, it is a good plan to apply a coat of paint or tar to the surface, in order to fill up the chinks and prevent the lodgment of water. Winter pruned trees generally produce a