,.=5r^;fp-^r2;Tr«=p^'i; UMASS/AMHERST 312066 0333 3076 1 /.Su.i^'^-- ^•w^ ■■■ f^v- ^fe^^.' .^?^-' ^J-^j^ '>^Jyii!ifai^-^ ^-'., ,; w xv l^^^:#^ ,\: "-^'i^ LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE No._2.S_0.5:i___DATE_.Tr_L?__Q7_ souRCE-.v^oJjeaer VuriOs *»6^ The Gabdbn.] [JuNB 30, 1903. Thb Gabdkn.] [Jdns 30, 1906. The Gardk.v ] [JcNE 30, 1906. AN Illustrated Weekly Journal OF Horticulture in all its Branches. Founded by W. Robinson in i%yi. VOL. LXIX. MIDSUMMER, 1906. I L0U\CD03\;. Office: 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, V^.C. Published by "COUNTRY LIFE," Ltd., 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C, and by GEORGE NEWNES, Ltd., 3-12, Southampton Street, Strand. J-i Thb Gasdbn.] TO SIR TREVOR LAWRENCE BART., K.C.V.O., V.M.H., PRESIDENT OF THE KOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY FOR THE PAST TWENTY-ONE YEARS, THE SIXTY-NINTH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN" Is dedicated. V9h LXIX.] " The Garden," June 30, 1906. INDEX Acacfa dealbata, 191; False, as a forest tree, 252 Adonis amurensis, 79 ; davurica, 79 Aerides, 124 ; vandarum, 124 Agipetes buxifolia, 1S7 Alpine flower, a charmiag, 211 ; plants in pans, 56, 101 ; in window-box, 153 ; peat- loving, 126 Amaryllis culture, successful, 266 ; treat- ment after flowering, 210 ; white, 254 American blight, 63, 275 Ammonia, salts of, ISO Anchusa, a new, 331 Androsace Laggeri, 219 ; lanuginosa, 175 Anemone apennina in grass, 232 ; blanda, 196 ; fulgens, 251 ; Poppy, the, 305 ; seedling, 194 Anemone!", 43 ; dying, 23S ; from seed, 275 ; pink, 24S ; Wood, 233 Angra33um eburneum, 59 Annals of the Little Red House, the, 25 Annual, a beautiful, 104 ; Cape, a pretty, 98 ; flowers in c:)lour groups, 104 ; some beautiful, 97, 118 Annuals, hardy, 104, 124 ; for half-shady border, 140 Ants in Peach trees, 312 Apple Allington Pippin, 131 ; Barnack Beauty, 39 ; Bedfordshire Foundling. 7S ; Blenheim Orange, 149 ; Court of Wick, 34 ; Cox's Orange Pippin and canker, 5 ; Duke of Wellington, 119; Dumelow's Seedling, 285; Golden Spire, 39; Han- well Souring, a good late, 230, 266, 303, 304, 326 ; leaves crinkled, 312 ; Old Northern Greening, good late, 231 ; a good Sussex— Winter Qaeening, 39; to rival Ribston Pippin, an, 208 ; trees, 227 ; canker in, 264; Warner's King, 295 Apples, late, 193; mildew on, 264; Scan- dinavian, 195; selections of, 76; some good neglected, 95 Apricot, the disappointing, 75 ; Japanese, the, 186 Apricots, 44, 213 Arch, a prettily covered, 83 Arenaria grandlflora, 148 Arnebia echioides, 298 Artichokes, 152 Asparagus, 76, 92. 173, 181, 193, 262, 335 ; bed, making, 239 ; beds, 63 ; Kale, 220 Aspidistra leaf decaying, 153 Aubrietia Lilac Queen, 285 Auricula, the, 2S0 ; hardy yellow, 261 ; season, the, 258 Auriculas at Great Bookham, 280 ; from seed, 185 ; seedling, 285 Avens, Mountain, the, 20 Azalea flowers falling, 239 Azaleas, 167 ; how to grow, 276 ; in June, hardy, 306 Badeit-Baden, notes from, 170, 242 Bean, Runner, Epicure, 249 Beans, 275 ; Broad, 44, 124, 166, 298 ; dwarf, 190; valuable. 316 ; French, 28, 139 Haricot, 310 ; Kidney, 309 ; Runner, 225 for forcing, 26 ; and Vegetable Marrows. 255 Beckett, Mr. Eiwin, 254 Bedding, summer, 274, 286, 309 ; out effects, rare, 268. 310 ; tropical, 319 Beet, 252 ; Sugar, 130 Beetroot, flavour in, 220 Begonia Alice, tuberous, 328 ; amabilis, 69 ; bulbs, 29 Begonias, 124 ; for bedding, 226 ; from seed, 263 ; new, two, 115 ; tuberous, new, 33 ; origin of, 45 Bellflower, the Chimney, on a dry wall, 4 Berberis stenophylla, 319 Birch, the Weeping (Young's variety), 83 Birches, silver- barked, 34 Birds and buds, 5 Blackberries, 166 Black Currant mite, the, 177, 312 "Blanket" weed in ponds, 325 Book of the Winter Garden," "The, 238 Border, the mixed, 117 ; narrow, 62 Box edging, 214, 298 ; planting, 201 ; hedge _ with brown foliage, 45 Bracken under trees, 311 Bramble, the Spineless, 330 Briars, budded standard, failure with, 288 ; transplanting, 167 British Flowering Plants," " Notes on the Life-historj^of, 63 British Gardeners' Association, 301 Broccoli, 60, 238, 298 ; or Cauliflower, 219 ; sprouting, Is it a green ? 266 ; Sutton's Eastertide, 310 Brooms, the hardy, 93 Brussels Sprouts, flavour of, 21 Brugmansias, growing, 61 Buddleia, a beautiful, 278 ; a new, 89 ; veitchiana magniflca, 278 Bulb, South African, 77 ; farm, a Surrey, 231 ; growing in fibre, 114 Bulbous plants, 177 Burbidge, the late Mr. F. W., M.A., V.M.H., 18; Memorial, 302 Bush, the Pearl, 311 Cabbage, winter, 329 Cabbages, autumn, a valuable, 317 ; Savoy, the small, 64 ; three good early, 147 Cactus seeds, 140 Calanthes, 28, 172, 213 Calceolarias from Messrs. Ball and Sons, 299 Calla elliotiana, 203 Callas at Arundel House, Dumfries, 159 Californian wizard, the, 143 Calthas, 268 Calystegia pubescens flore-pleno (syn. C. hederacea), 223 Camellia, Donkelaari, 341 ; the small- flowered, 3 Camellias sporting, 215 Campanula, a good dwarf, 114 Cape, a warning from the, 159 ; Town, a garden near, 38 Cardoon, 94 Carnation, scarlet flake, John Wormald, 52 ; show, winter, the, 159 Carnations, 263 ; American, 326 ; border, 62; Malmaison, 104, 32S ; Marguerite, 147 ; on an old wall, 248 ; planting, 223 ; from seed, 214 ; for window-boxes, 163 ; winter-flowering, 4, 264 Carrots, 60, 139, 178 Catasetums, the, 88, 152 Cattleya labiata, 152 ; Trianse, 108 Cattleyas, 286 Cauliflower or Broccoli, 219 ; Early Giant, 249; Her Majesty, 220 Cauliflowers, autumn-sown, 152 Ceanothus rigidus, 249 Cedrus Deodara robusta, 199 Celeriac, 192 Celery, 124, 190, 262, 335 ; cooking, a valu- able, 22 ; diseased, 126 ; trenches, 238 ; Turnip-rooted or Celeiiac in winter, 22 Cement tank, plants for, 214 Chalk soil, plants for, 262 Charlock in Corn crops, destruction of, 242 Cherries, 77, 189, 251 ; damaged, 287 ; Morello, 77, 94 ; and Pears, preserving, 227 Chervil, 139, 310 Cherry culture, useless, 329 ; the Bird, 320 Chicory, 44 ; blanching, ISO Choisya ternata, 114 Chrysanthemum," "The, 50; blooms on each plant, stopping, 263 ; Bronze Thompson, 51 ; leaf-rust, cure and pre- vention of, 13 ; single-flowered early, Dora Godfrey, 35 Chrysanthemums, buds and breaks of, 332; colour, time of blooming, &c, 110 ; decorative, 52 ; dwarf, 54 ; early - flowering, 261 ; for exhibition, stopping and timing, 28 ; fifty good deco- rative, 99 Chrysanthemums to flower at Christmas, 262 ; Japanese, for market, 14 ; new, 72 ; Japanese, 101 ; Pompon, miniature, 24 ; for pot culture, 28 ; stopping and timing, 36; twelve autumn - flowering outdoor, 167 ; varieties to flower in O-inch pots, 256 ; white, late decorative varie- ties, 71 Chysis, 151 Cinerarias, 178; how to grow, 280 ; Webb's, 170 Clay, burning, 180 Clematis davidiana, 53; grafting, 166; montana, 287 ; m. rubens, 242 Clematises, the placing of, 183 Climbers on trees, 29 ; pruning, 69 Codlin moth, the, 274 Coelogyne cristata, 213 Colchicum autumnaie, 37 ; double white, the, 171 Coleus, a new, 99 ; shirensis, 99 Colour effect in the flower garden, 113 Commelina caslestis, 19 Composil?e, self-sterile, 315 Compounds, poisonous, for horticultural purposes, 182 Conifer, a golden-leaved, 114 Conservatory, plants in, 264 Coreopsis Grantii, 101 Cosmos bipinnatus, 3S Cottage Gardening," "Early Lessons in, 155 " Country in Town " exhibition, 171 Cropping ground, 95 Crops, rotation of, 92 Crown Imperials in grass, 259 Cucumbers, 189, 190, 202 Culture of Vegetables and Flowers from Roots and Seeds," "The, 238 Currant, the Black, 26 Currants, 125 ; Black, 27, 110 ; Red, pinch- ing. 304 Cut Flowers," " The Book of, 125 Cuttings, sand for, 203 Cycas, a new, 246 Cyclamen Low's Salmon, IS, 48 ; sweet- scented forms, 54 ; and Primulas, 137 ; sweet-scented, notes on the, 6 ; two- year-old, 135, 170, 245 ; Persian, the, 36, 281 ; Messrs. Webb and Sons, 96 Cydonia japonica cardinalis, 330 Cymbidium rhodocheilum, 315 Cymbidiums, 298 Cyphomandra betacea, 39 Cypripedium, new, C. Alcibiades magni- flcum, 55 ; arthurianum, 79 ; bellatulum, 334; insigne and vars., 43; for winter decoration, 62 ; Thalia, Mrs. Francis Wellesley, 9 Cypripediums, hybrid, 76 ; sowing seeds of, 76 Cytisus kewensis, 282 ; prascox, 318 Dafliodil annual, a, 130, 148 ; the Cyclamen, 185, 244 ; early days of the, 255, 297 ; the Hoop-petticiat, 222. 303 ; and other, 271 ; notes, 70, 103, 197, 233, 243, 291, 303 origin of the white trumpet, &c., 221 , seedling, a beautiful, 182 ; yellow stripe disease, 229, 271, 303 Daffodils, 91 ; fifty favourite, 244 ; not flowering, 252, 270 ; at Lissadell, 231 ; in the market, 67 ; poisoning from, 67 ; seedling, new, 270 Dahlia, Cactus, The Pilot, 268 ; tubers, 189 Dahlias, Cactus, 259 ; planting, 140 Dandelion, 44 Daphne rupestris, 327 Datura, 45 Delphinium sulphureum, 153 Delphiniums, 258 Dendrobium Curtisii, 145 ; nobile album, 160 ; Fhalcenopsis schrbderianum and | vara., 189; thyrsiflorum, 303; wardi- i anum, 261 i Dendrobiums, 76, 166 i Deutzias In Mr. Gumbleton's garden, Bel- grove, Queenstown, 99 Devon, a note from, 231 Dickson, Mr. George, 3 Dlervilla (Weigela) Fleur de Mai, 249 Drodalacanthus parvus, 20 Dondia epipactis, 173 Dundee school children, culture of flowers. by, 183 Echium Wildpretii, 252 Edinburgh, Princes Street Gardens, 35 Elm, Siberian, the, 146 Endive, 76 Epidendrum o'brienianum, 334 Epiphronitis Veitchii, 108 Ercilla spicata, 228 Eremuri, 177, 251 Eremurus, Himalayan, the, 85 Erica hybrida Veitchii, 96 ; iusitanica, 105- Eryngiums, 341 Escallonia florihunda, 19 Eucharis mite, 77 Eucomis punctata, 319 Eupatorium vernale, S3 Euphorbia epithymoides, 294 Euphorbias, some, 79 Evergreens for outside, 311 ; planting, 61, 201 ; pruning, 189 Examination of Ecardeners in public parks- and gardens, 158 Exhibition Munster-Connacht, 315 Fennel, Florence, or Finocchio, 180 Fern fronds shrivelled, 203 Ferns for covering walls, 104 ; Filmy, and- Wardian cases, 32 ; growing in bottles, 218 ; in the house, 308 ; in Wardian case, 308 ; scale on, 215 Fig. the, 108 ; house. 109 ; trees, non- fruiting, 78 Figs, 152, 262 ; dropping, 287 ; in pots, fruit falling off, 239 ; outdoor, 298 Fir, the Douglas, 29 Florence Fennel, the, 194 Flower border, 29 ; garden, January, 11 Flowers in a County Down garden, 314 ; ia the North, 93 Forget-me-nots, the, 293 Forsythia europfea, 99 Freesia, a new, 99, 184 Freesias, 179 ; hybrid, 173 Fritillary, early and distinct, an, 133 Fruit-buds from birds, protecting, 179;. growing, hardy, 208 ; harvest in South Africa, 299; importance of grading and packing, 301 ; industry, the Blairgowrie, ' 290 ; prospects (April), 230. 267 ; thin- ning, 236 ; tree planting in Fifeshire, 34 ;. trees, 92, 179 ; grafting, 154 ; manures for, 132 ; on cottages. 259 ; planting, &c., 12, 21 ; pruning, 46 ; recently-planted, 298 ; selections of, 154 ; sewage matter for, 239 Fruits, preserving, 227 ; for preserving, bottling, 252 ; and vegetables, new^ 133, 135 Fuchsias, some new, 245 Furze (double) from cuttings, 311 Galtonia, the, 163 Garden Album." "The, 51, 156; Design in Italy," "The Art of, 335; on the Avon, a public, 158 ; damp, plants for, 62 ; new, 263 ; cropping, 46 ; shaded, 191 ; small, 139 ; planting, 178 ; pro- fltable crop for, 228 Gardener, Earl of Elgin's, presentation to> 159 ^'^O^'l VI. INDEX. [" The Garden,'' June 30, 1906, Gardeners, lady, at work, 51 ; oppor- tunitiea, youog, 20, 68, 84 Gardeoers, prizes (or, December awards, 50 ; February, 66, 98 ; February awards, 182 ; March, 130, 166 ; March awards, 230 ; April, 194, 206, 226 ; April awards, 278; May, 242, 254; June, 290; Royal BenevoleDt Institution, 302 Gardening for Beginners— Abutilon, propagating, 58 ; Ageratums from cuttings, raising, 90 ; Anemone, Japanese, 75 ; Anemones, Japanese, 165 ; annuals, hardy, 151 ; the use of, 224 ; Antirrhinuma for massing, 75 ; Apple Bismarck, 10; diseases, 260; growing the, 260 ; the propagation of the, 200 ; pruning the, 2G0 ; pruning the (winter), 74 ; Apples, varieties of, 260 ; and Peara, bush, pruning, 91 ; Arabia, 26 ; the white, 224 ; Asparagus, 122 ; Aster sinensis or single Comet, 236; Bimboo, the, 237 ; Bean, Dwarf Fan or Cluster, 122 ; Begonias, bedding, 42 ; two valu- able, 200 ; winter-flowering, 224 ; bien- nials, sowing, 260 ; Bladder Senna, the, 107 ; blue flowers in winter, 42 ; birds in the garden, 91 ; boxes, planta in, 225 ; bulbs in fibre, 91, 151 ; after flowering in pots and boxes, 136 ; in the mixed border, 296; to plant in April, 212; Canary Creeper, the, 250 ; Cannas for bedding, 237 ; Carnations, 165 ; after - planting, 237 ; from seed, 164, 189 ; . seedling, 297; Carrots, Eirly Stump Horn, 344 ; Cherry, winter, 43 ; Chry- santhemum growing for beginners, 58 ; Chrysanthemums, some good, 42 ; late flowering, for decorations, 10 ; Pompon, for a beginner, 224 ; six Pompons of «asy culture, 224 ; propagating, 10 ; work among the, 90 ; what to do with your plants, 106 ; Clematises, pruning, 272 ; conservatory against the house, the, 91 ; Cucumbers in frames, 188 ; and Melons in pots in greenhouse, 284 ; Cur- rant, black, 296 ; Currants, red and white, 296; cuttings of various forms, 106 ; Daffodils not flowering, 224 ; Dahlias, propagating, 176 ; Dictamnus Fraxineila, 296; Fern, room, a valuable, 43 ; Ferns, about hardy, 308 ; banks of, 200 ; in the house, 308 ; in Wardian cases, SOS ; Fig trees, hints on growing, 236; Foray thiaa, the, 236; frames and greenhouses, 122 ; fruit tree blossom, protecting, 200 ; trees, gum- ming in, 11 ; wall, 165 ; should they be allowed to fruit the first year after planting, 11 ; Fuchsias, hardy, some, 164 ; in the conservatory, 151 ; gardens, small, laying out, 123, 150 ; gas-Ilme in the garden, 122 ; Geranium, miniature foliage, a, 212 ; Geraniums, Oak-leaved, 296 ; spring propagation of, 150 ; Gladi- oli, planting, 236 ; Globe Flowers, 273 ; Godetias, 250 ; Gooseberry, the, 296 ; cuttings, 42; Grasses, namental, 236; Grapea, thinning, 236 greenhouse, un- heated, flowers in the, 123 ; greenhouses and frames, 122; hardening off, 272; hardy plants, seeds of, 260 ; hedges, clipping, 285; h«eing, 212; Holliea, groups of, 43 ; transplanting, 236 ; hot- bed, making a, 122 ; hot-beds In blocks, 106 ; making, 74 ; Iris, the Netted, 166 ; reticulata, 165 ; Irises for the town garden, 123; Ivies by cuttings, propaga- tion of, 212 ; Lrelia anceps, 188 ; lawn, the, 224 ; lawns, new, making, 164 ; Lily, white, the, 42 ; Lilies, 75 ; in tubs, 107 ; Loganberry, the, 296 ; Melons and Cucumbers in pots in greenhouae, 284 ; Melons, setting, 308 ; mulch- ing, 201 ; Mustard and Cress, 90 ; Narcissus, the, 106; Nasturtiums in window - boxes, 225 ; Nectarine and Peach, the, 284 ; Orchid growing for beginners : Soil and treatment, 10 ; Fan- sies, Violetta, 164 ; Parsley, 90 ; Peach tree, disbudding, 2L2 ; trees, disbudding, 260 ; in the suburban garden, 107 ; and Nectarine, the, 284 ; Peaches, the beat time to prune, 164 ; Pear, the, 272 ; Pears as pyramids and bushes, 273 ; as standards, 273 ; Pear tree, pruning the, 320 ; Peas, 59 ; for August, 236 ; Phlox Drnmmondii, 250 ; plan, a garden, 10 ; plant, room, a good, 43 ; Plum, the, 273 ; Potatoes, early, some good, 176 ; potting plants, 26 ; propaga- gation by eyes or cuttings, 106 ; by grafting, 136 ; hints about, 150 ; propa- gating notes, some, 176; pruning the Apple (winter), 74 ; some errors in, 104 ; Raspberry, the, 296 ; Rhododendron, a winter - flowering, 91; Rhododendrons and Lilies, 43 ; rock and water garden- ing, 150; Rocket, white, 206 ; root- pruning— why is it necessary ? 11 ; Rose, Banksia, the, 165 ; green, the, 122 ; growths, thinning, 235 ; rotation, the ganberry, the (coloured supplement) M. Maiden's Wreath, the (Francoa ramosa), growing out of doors in the south-west, 343 Marrows, Vegetable, hanging clear of the ground, 255 Marsh Marigold or Kingcup, a new, 269 Marsh Marigolds by pond-side at Ihe Woodlands, 2(18 Marshall, Mr. W., V.M.H., 142 Melon fruits, how to set, 308 ; how to support, 304 Melons should be grown in a pot, how, 284 Mezereon in flower, the, 131 Moschosma riparium, 69 Muscari conicum at The Woodlands, Harrow Weald, 282 N. Narcissus Bulbocodium, 222 ; Chinese Sacred, grown in moss fibre, 151 ; cyclamineus, 148 ; Ethelbert, 197 ; Mac- leai, 103 ; Star, in Mr. Austin's farm. Worthing, 163 Nigella Miss Jekyll (coloured supplement) Norman, Mr. George, the late, 166 Rhododendron Mangleal, 329 ; White Pearl, 246 Rock garden, Kew, in the, 82 Kosa sericea var. pteracantha (coloured supplement) Rose Aglaia in the garden of Mme. Jay, Baden-Baden, 245 ; Frau Karl Druschkl (specimen flower), 7 ; Climbing Frau Karl Druschki, spray of, 20S ; new climbing, Frau Karl Druschki, 281 ; Frau Lilla Rautenstrauch (H.T ), 100 ; J. B. Clark (H.T.), (colomed siipplement) ; Mme. d'Arblay 20 feet high, 8 ; Mme. Plantier, 41 ; shoot, diseased, 184 Roses, Christmas, among Ferns at Kew, 118 ; in an Irish garden, 207 ; and Pinks in a Midland garden, 72 ; how to prune, 144 s. Sauromatura guttatum, 308 Saxifraga apiculata, on the Kew rock garden, 210 ; sancta, on rock face at Kew, 223 ; Ecardica, grown in the alpine house at Kew, 231 Saxifrage growing in pot, 123 Siberian Flag, the, by the lake in the Royal Gardens, Kew, 342 Snowdrops growing in pan. 122 Solanum jasminoides, 330 ; on a Sussex house, 21 Solomon's Seal, group of, 172 Spring picture at Kew, a, 183 Strawberry, layering the, 332 Sweet Pea, Henry Ecklord (coloured sup- plement) Odontoglossum fowlerianuro, 173; wilcke- anum schioderianum, 23 Omphalodes Luciliffi in Mr. Crisp's beauti- ful rock garden at Friar Park, 283 Orchis, the Bee, 257; the Butterfly, 267 Oxalis floribunda, 270 Pampas Grass in a London garden, 267 Pansies, Tufted, one of the newer. Grey Friar, 291 ; Violetta, 164 Peach tree should be trained, how a, 107 Pear Charles Ernest, 13 ; tree. Jargonelle, against an old cottage, 259 Pelargonium, Ivy-leaved, Mme. Crousse, in a south-west garden, 331 Pelargoniums, scented-leaved, one of the newer, 293 Pergola in course of construction in a Cape garden, 38 ; a Rose, at Kew, 87 Pinks, a garden of. 73 ; and Roses in a Midland garden, 72 Plum, the Wickson, 149 , ,, „ Prain, Lieut. -Colonel David, M.B., I.M.S., 19 Primrose, an alpine, 186 Primula, a new, from China, 303 ; cognata, 303; Fortunei, the rare, at Kow. 210; viacosa, 186 Primulas, Chinese, Messrs. Sutton and Sons', 138 Pruning the Apple (winter), 74 Prnnus Mume fl.-pl. at Kew, 186; shoot of, 187 Temperate house at Kew, the great central walk in, 247 Thyrsacanthus rutilans, 209 Thiselton - Dyer, Sir William Turner, KC.M.G.,F.RS.,3 Tomato plant in pot in greenhouse, 2/ 2 Tuberoses flowering outdoors in Mr. Broome's garden at Llandudno, 117 Viburnum Carlesii, the new, 279 Vine from pot, the, 250 ; prepared for planting, the, 250 ; shoot, how it should be trained, 296 , ^^ , ,. Vines, grafting, 344 ; and other Iruits, propagation of, 106 Violet, the Bog, grown in a pan, 101 Violeta, Neapolitan and double white Comte de Brazza in frame, 211 ' Vitis henryana, a beautiful hardy climb- ing plant from China, 341 Wall, dry, before it is planted, 143 Water Lily pond at Kew, the, 24 Waxflower, the, 119 Wistaria on pergola, 294 Witch Hazei, the, 105 Yucca nltida, 161 3>^5S^.^f^-s3^-^ — r<57- ^^4^513^ No. 17^1.— Vol. LXIX January 6, 1906. THE OLD YEAR & THE NEW WITH the issue of this number another year dawns, and once again the pleasant opportunity is given of wishing our readers a very Happy New Year, and thanking those who have helped us so willingly in the past. We look forward with even greater hopefulness to the work that lies before us, happy in the belief that the earnest support of our con- tributors will be given with the same heartiness as in the year that has closed. Horticultural events in 1905 were more numerous than usual, and it becomes more difficult to cope with the stream of exhibitions which flows unceasingly throughout the year. The centre of activity has been, as usual, the Royal Horticultural Society, whose shows and fortnightly meetings are not only beauti- ful and instructive in themselves, but a meeting-place for the ardent horticulturist, whilst the fortnightly lectures have reached a high level of excellence. It is a source of satisfaction to know that the annual exhibition in the Temple Gardens still attracts the general public, and whilst those responsible for it continue to maintain its reputation people will flock to see this wonderful display of British horticultural skill. We think the holding of a second show some weeks later is not likely to prove a success, and for the reason that it is possible to have too much even of a good thing. The exhibition held in the grounds attached to the Chelsea Hospital was very charming, but scantily attended. The Royal Horticultural Society has accomplished a remarkable work without official aid in furthering scientific and practical horticulture in this country, and it must gratify everyone who has the welfare of horticulture at heart to know that its financial position is exceedingly strong. The letting of the Hall we believe has helped considerably towards the extinc- tion of the fast-dwindling debt. The National Rose Society continues to flourish in the happiest way. It is controlled by men who are earnest in their work, and under the presidency of Mr. C. E. Shea its usefulness has extended. The " Official Year Book " will have a strong influence not only in acquiring a larger membership, but in spreading a knowledge and love of the flower of flowers. Naturally there was considerable misgiving as to the result of the migration from the Temple Gardens to the beautiful grounds of the Royal Botanic Society for the annual metropolitan show, but good advertising, lovely summer weather, and shady grounds set all anxieties at rest. The Sweet .Pea and Potato societies held their usual yearly exhibitions, which in both cases were even more interesting than those of the previous year. The widespread love for the Sweet Pea is astonishing. We see how from a simple garden flower it is possible to produce through the hybridiser's skill a wealth of colour and form unknown a few generations ago. The name of Eckford, whose work was crowned with such complete success, is written in gardens throughout the British Isles and over the seas. In the botanical world the recent resigna- tion of the director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, has ended an official connexion with this famous establishment which has had an important bearing upon the scientific pro- gress of the country. The new director is a man of power and of knowledge, and will maintain, we are assured, the position Kew has attained under the leadership of Sir William Thiselton-Dyer. Many famous horticulturists and scientists have passed away during the year. Familiar faces will be seen no more, and we know not who may cross the stream in the year that has begun. This, however, we do know, that the work of those who have left this world has had an influence for good in promoting the welfare of horticultural pursuits in these isles. During the present year there will be much the same round of events, but one, we think, will stand out with unusual prominence — the great hybrid con- ference to take place next July under the auspices of the Royal Horticultural Society. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. Christmas Flowers from Dunroein. A delightful box of flowers comes from Mr. Melville, Danrobin Gardens, Golspie, Suther- land, and the foUowiDg note shows the great variety of plants that were in bloom so late in the year : " I am sending a few flowers gathered out of doors on Christmas Day, which will show the mildness of the weather we have had of late, viz., Veronica Andersoni, Marie Louise Violets, Chrysanthemums, Christmas Roses, Violas, double Primroses, Roses, &a. The hardest frost we have experienced this autumn was 5° on November 18 and 19, and 5^° on November 29. The whole of D>-cember has been unusually mild. Christmas Day was fine, clear, and calm, with slight white frost in the forenoon." The Loquat. We have received from Mr. G. Camp, gardener toE Byrom, E-q. , Culver, Exeter, a few flowering shoots of Photinia (Eriobotrya) japonica, the Japan Medlar, which has been flowering in the open against a south wall since the first week in October. The severe frost seems to have had no tffcct whatever on its blooming. Our correspon- dent writes: "I am sending these flowers because I do not think it is generally known that the Loquat is so hardy." THE KEW LAKE. Theee is probably nothing in landscape gardening so difficult to deal with, and so seldom dealt with successfully, as what is called " artificial water." It may be taken for granted that it is a thing that everyone desires in any attempt at a considerable landscape effect. It is a pretty expensive hobby, and the result is often rather a measure of the wealth of the owner than of his taste. It may, of course, be the affection begot of long acquaintanceship — though I do not think it is — but I know no piece of water of artificial origin which gives me such solid satisfaction as the lake in the arboretum at Kew. The accompanying illustration is a view of it looking south — not by any means the most striking of many — but still, and perhaps for that reason, characteristic of its treatment. The Editor has asked me to write a few words to accompany it. It seems to me that I can best comply with his request by explaining why I think this particular bit of water is so successful, or at any rate why it pleases me. And I do this with the less hesitation because, though in detail, it has been my constant care, the lake was not my creation. It was begun in 1856 by Sir William Hooker, and completed in its essential features by Sir Joseph Hooker in 1870. The first point is, I think, its moderate size ; it covers a little more than 4^ acres. I do not mean to say that large pieces of water have not their own charm. But then they are apt to dominate the landscape instead of being an element in it. A piece of water should be an item in a composition, and not its master. It is a common thing in a large domain to form a sheet of water by throwing a dam across a shallow valley, and allowing a stream to fill the hollow. The result is rather a reservoir than a lake. The dam is always obvious ; it may be skilfully planted vsdth trees which, no doubt, mask it THE GAKDEN. [January 6, 1906. VIEW OF THE LAKE AT KEW (LOOKING SOUTH). at the expeQse of closing the only extended view the lie of the ground affords. There is usually a boat-house. Bat rowing under such conditions is an amusement apt to become monotonous. Supposing, then, the lake to be of moderate size, the first indispensable condition is that it should not be seen all at once. The funda- mental principle of all landscape gardening is the excitement of curiosity. Every step should invite some further exploration and reward with some new but not final discovery. The lake should therefore be broken up with islands relatively large in size, but set off with ample water surfaces. The islands should be heavily wooded with well disposed clumps of trees. These give effects of light and shadow on the water which are often in striking contrast. The neighbouring banks in this case should be wooded, too, but more sparsely. Where the lake is more open and the hanks barer, the vegetation on the islands should be kept thinner and lower. The margins should avoid any stiff or hard outline, and should advance here and there into promontories, which will define corre- sponding bays. The former should be accen- tuated by boldly placed trees, or may be clothed with shrubs. The bays may be edged with well-chosen water plants, which should not be allowed to form a continuous hedge, but should be broken here and there to allow the turf to slope down to the waterside. One of the charms of water is that it enhances by reflection any colour effect. This may be taken advantage of along the banks and on the islands by planting bold clumps of shrubs or such herbaceous plants as, if not actually aquatic in habit, like a moist subsoil. Even in winter a charming effect has been obtained at Kew by planting groups of coloured-bark Willows on one of the islands. When the sun catches them they light up like lambent flame. Water surfaces should be allowed to produce their own effectj and should not be allowed to be covered up with floating plants. If this is neglected the lake degenerates into a swamp. Clumps of Water Lilies should be kept near the banks, and not at such a distance as to make the beauty of their flowers inconspicuous. I have said above that a lake should not be merely an object in itself, but an item in a composition. When made, the task of weaving it, as it were, into its surroundings is best accomplished gradually, and is often effected, as at Kew, by judicious cutting out. Two objects should be aimed at : the one is to open up points of view in which the presence of water will tell ; the other is to obtain a pleasing balance in the disposition of trees and foliage. No rules can be laid down for the latter, except those which apply to any design in which the total effect depends on the way in which the details are distributed. Kew. W. T. Thiselton-Dyee. PRIZES OPEN TO ALL. WALL GARDENS. A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered fw the best answers to the following questions : 1 Daecribe briefly how a wall should be constructed for wall plants. 2. Describe the way the plants should be inserted in both rough stone and brick walls. 3 Describe the sowing of the seed in the wall. Is it better to plant seedlings or to sow seed, and when is the best time both to plant and sow ? 4. Name the most beautiful spring, summer, and autumn-flowering plants for sunny walls. 5. Name the most suitable plants for a shady wall and those that give the best effect in winter. 6. Describe the way to treat an old mossy wall which it is wished to sow or plant. 7. How should the plants be treated at all seasons ? NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. January 9. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition and Meeting. January 10 — East Anglian Horticultural Club's Annual Dnner. Sheffield Chrysanthemum Society's Meeting. January IS — Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution's Annual General Meeting and Election of Pensioners. January '23 — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition and Meeting. January 24. — Croydon Gardeners' Society's Annual Dinner. Mp. R. I. Lynch.— We are pleased to hear that Mr. Lynch, curator of the Botanic Gardens, Cambridge, is to receive the honorary degree of M A. from the University of Cam- bridge in recognition of his services to botanical science. Flowers on Christinas Day.— We hear a great deal of the Sjuth-West, but I have gathered here to-day four Roses in the open garden, and have two plants of Lapageria rosea still in flower on the front of the house. Pretty good for CnristmasDay in Kent. — Medwat, The Orange, Benenden, Cranhrook. Primula floribunda.— Bright yellow flowers are attractive at all seasons, and especially in the winter months. This Primula blooms over a long period, and this without needing a warm house. It has been a great favourite of mine for many years, and I once tried crossing it with P. obconica without success. It has occurred to me whether it was one of the parents of kewensis. This Primula is easily raised from seed. Last March we sowed a pan of it, and had a large number of plants from a shilling packet. Many fail to raise this and many other small-seeded Primulas, such as obconica, &c. , owing to their covering the seed with soil. Oar method is to make the surface very fine and level, and then sow the seed, slightly dusting very fine soil or sand over it. Cover with a piece of glass, and keep in a moist place until it has germinated. The seedlings being so small they must be kept close to the glass till strong enough to prick out, when we give them frame treatment through the summer. Remove to a greenhouse in autumn. At the close of the year we have good pans full of flowers which look charming in suitable places in rooms. We find them most useful to grow in small pots to put in vases on the dinner table. — J. Crook. PleCtranthUS erasSUS.— In the early part of the present year this new Central African Labiate formed a very striking feature at Kew, and it is now again one of the most notable plants flowering in the T range, where, in the company of Begonias, Eranthemums, &c. , it is quite at home. Botanically it is closely related to the Coleus, and like Coleus thyrsoides, a native of much the same region, it bids fair when better known to be a decidedly popular plant, as the flowers are freely borne, are of a pleasing tint, and a succession is kept up for some time, added to which it is of easy culture. The Plectranthus in question branches sparingly, the plants at Kew having stout, erect stems, clothed with ovale leaves of a pale green tint. The flowers, which are borne in rather narrow terminal spikes, are arranged in whorls, which continue to develop, and thus maintain a succession for a considerable period. Its propagation and culture are very easy, the main point to bear in mind being that the finest spikes are borne on the stoutest stems, hence they must not be stopped much to ensure branching, as such plants flower hut poorly. Besides its own intrinsic merits this Plectranthus may be of value to the hybridist, for oroases between this and Coleus thyrsoideus seem quite — H.P. January 6, 190').1 THE GARDEN. Mp. Geopg-e Dickson, head of the firm of Massra. Alox. Dickson and Sodb, New- townards, was paid a high compliment some few days ago on the occasion of his completion of fifty years' presidency of the Newtownards Horticultural Society. The Newtownards Chronicle contains a portrait and a long and warm appreciation of the services rendered by Mr. George Dickson, not only to the local horti- cultural society, but to the district generally. The committee of the horticultural society unanimously decided that the jubilee celebration of their president should not pass without recognition, and they took advantage of the recent annual reunion to present him with his portrait as a memorial of hia work. Plumbag^o rosea.— In the cool end of the stove, or in the intermediate house, this Plumbago forms a beautiful winter picture, as the long terminal spikes are thickly studded with bright rosy red blossoms, and seen in a mass or group it is most efi^ective. Though quite an old plant, for it was introduced from the West ladies as long ago as 1777, this Plumbago is scarcely grown to the extent that one might expect, though I believe it has been taken in band more within the last three or four vears than it previously was. It is not at all difficult to grow, as cuttings strike root readily in early spring, and thrive well in ordinary potting compost. There is a variety (coccinea) in which the flowers are brighter in colour than those of the type, but it is scarcely as free a grower. In the temperature suitable for this PlumbagT many beautiful flowers may be had at this season, notably the Jioobinias, Eranthemums, Begonias, and others. — T. The small - flowered Camellia (C. Sasanqua).— Thougb the ordinary CAmellia jiponiua, represented in gardens by varieties innumerable, may be had in bloom during December if the plants are given gentle heat, such a stimulus is not needed to induce C. Sasacqua to flower at the same period, as iu a cool house this naturally begins to bloom before the end of the year. The species under notice forms a freely-branched bush. The shoots are altogether more slender than those of C. jiponica, and the leaves much smaller, while the flowers are only from IJ inches to 2 inches across. There are several forms, the typical kind having pink blossoms, while there is a white-flowered variety, and another with the leaves variegated with creamy white. The Japanese catalogues give several varieties of Camellia Sisanqua, but some of them, particularly those with semi-double blossoms, are probably hybrids between this species and C. japonioa. The propagation of Camellia Sasanqua by cuttings is not difficult, whereas C. japonica does not readily strike. The intro- duction of 0. Sasanqua dates back for nearly a century, but though far from common now it is at the present day much better known than it was twelve years ago. It is a favourite shrub in Japanese gardens, being justly valued from the fact that the flowers are there produced during the late autumn months. — T. New Zealand Veronicas.— Though some of the dwarf shrubby Veronicas from New Zealand are rather difficult to grow satisfactorily, there are several which succeed in any ordinary good soil and in somewhat trying atmospheric conditions. These plants cannot be regarded as especially adapted for towns, yet a few of them not only exist, but develop into very presentable specimens in extremely unfavourable metropolitan districts. Veronica Traversi, for instance, thrives in some of the smokiest parts of the East End, the chief aid to its healthy progress being an occasional cleansing of the foliage from the sooty deposits. In pots it seems more satisfactory than in borders, one reason being that the supply of water can be better controlled, and in repotting the soil can be partly renewed. Still, it is only in the pure air of country districts that V. Traversi is seen in its perfection. In Bedfordshire and Buckinghamshire gardens I have noted strong, handsome bushes that for vigour of growth and foliage were so far superior to examples of the species as seen in suburban gardens that they were scarcely recognisable at first glance. It is surprising, however, what a power of adaptation to varied circumstances the plant possesses. V. Stuarti is also a compact-growing species, with short, closely-set, bright green leaves. V. buxi- folia is of more straggling growth, with dark its upper part with two opposite rows of large boat-shaped bracts of a purplish crimson at the base, which hue graduilly merges into the orange of the upper part. The flowers are yellow, but they do not protrude far beyond the bracts, and in addition they do not last long, hence they cannot be regarded as the most important part of the inflorescence, the bracts themselves occupying that position. The plant needs good drainage, a mixture of sand green small leaves, those at the tips of the growth : and peat, and a liberal amount of water when being of a lighter and brighter tint. V. anomala growing. — T. is a neat little bush, with upright growth and — ^— — — — — — ^^— — ^^-— — ^— small, sharp leaves, much more suggestive of an T Epaoris than that named V. epacridea, which is a curious little plant of a yellowish green shade, imparting a rather unhealthy appearance to it. V. diosmsefolia forms a fine, healthy bush 4 feet high and as much in diameter, and thrives well in metropolitan gardens. Ooe of the most dis- tinct of the smaller - growing sorts is V. decumbens, which has slender and very slightly branched stems about a foot high, bearing ovale or nearly round leaves, which, being cupped or I nineteen years Sir William Turner Thiselton hollowed, imparl a peculiar appearance to the Dyer has left the mark of a strong personality on plant. I have grown many others under varied the splendid gardens which he has brought to conditions of soil and atmosphere, some of which I remarkable perfection. All who have delight have proved satisfactory and others quite the | or interest in horticulture owe an immense debt reverse, but those named here have not caused I of gratitude to the late director, in that he has so much trouble, though they are just as impatient raised their horticultural standing as to have of a stagnant water-logged state of the soil as I made them a living exposition of a vast collection they are of a dry ROYAL GARDENS, KEW. The Late Director. LHE resignation of the director of the R lyal Gardens, Kew, is an event of more than pissing interest, especially when there is a record of devoted service to botanical science and horti- culture extonding over a period of condition, hence they often do well on a rockery if not too much exposed to the hottest sunshine. — R. L. Castle. Tillandsia carinata. — This is the cor- rect name of the pretty f ree - flowering Brome- liad, known generally in gar- dens and nur- series as Vriesia brachystachys. It is one of the most readily grown of its class, and the bright coloured flowers brighten up the stove during winter. It is altogether a small grower, as neat flowering examples may be had in pots 4 inches or 4 J inches in diameter, the whole plant, flower scape in- cluded, being not more than a foot in height. The light green recurving leaves are arranged in a vasiform - like manner, and at all seasons are very pleasing, but, of course, the plant is addi- tionally attrac- tive when in bloom. The flower-stem, which well over- tops the foliage, is furnished on 11 k''-^ SIB WILLIAM TDRNEETHISBLTON-DTEB, K.O.M.G., F.K S. THE GARDEN. [January 6, 19C6. of plants, 80 grown and arranged as to make the gardens a place of beauty, and of the highest instructive value in gardening. That woik is of a kind that may be understood not only by the owners of large places, but by those who are holders of the tiniest plot of ground. Sir William has laboured with con- spicuous success to the perfecting of their scientific organisation. The species and marked varieties that the gardens now contain are nearly all catalogued in a series of hand-lists, which are generally accepted as authoritative standards of botanical nomenclature. Sir William Thiselton-Dyer was born in 1843, bfcame, forty-three years later, director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, in succession to his father- in-law, Sir Joseph Hooker. In his earlier years Sir William took honours in mathematical and natural science at the universities of Oxford and Lor don, and held the Professorship of Natural History and of Botany successively at the Royal Agricultural College at Cirencester and the Royal College of Science for Ireland, entering on his woik at the Royal Gardens as assistant director in 1875. As Professor of Botany and of Natural History, as lecturer to classes of teachers in training, as president of more than one section, on different occasions, of the British Association, as vice-president of the Royal Sioiety, as member of the senate of the London University, and in other allied offices he has already done a life's work of steady labour in botany. In botanical literature Sir William published in 1863, with the late Dr. Trimen, "A Flora of Middlesex," for which the collection of material was begun in schooldays, and in 1875 edited the English edition of "Sach's Text-book of Botany," and is now engaged in editing the "Icones Plantarum," the continuation of the " Flora Capensis," and the " Flora of Tropical Africa." We wish the late director many happy and useful years in his retirement, and feel sure this wish will be echoed by all with whom he has been brought into contact during a long and busy life at Kew. A farewell address was recently pre- sented to Sir William by the members of the staff when the new director, Dr. Prain, was formally introduced to the curator, assistant curator, and other workers in the Royal Gardens. Next week we hope to refer to the new director, Dr. Prain. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the expressed by correspondents. J opinions POTATOES NOT DECAYING. [To THE Editor of " Thd Garden."] SI R, — I do not think I claimed for my remedy — that of sprouting the tubers well in shallow boxes before planting and picking out those which fail to sprout or sprout weakly — as being infallible, but I gave it as being, according to my experience, one of the best means of protecting one's self, to some extent, against loss through the "leaf -curl" disease. I thank " W. B.," page 383, for his contribution ; according to his experience a tuber may be affected with the disease and yet make a strong sprout before it is planted, though it fails to grow satisfactorily after being put into the ground. So far I have never observed this, and there- fore the plot thickens, and the leaf-curl puzzle gets more difficult to deal with. I have another point upon which perhaps " W. B." will give me the benefit of his experience. So far I have never had any trouble with seed tubers obtained direct from Scotland, and Scotch-grown seed has not failed to decay and send up satisfactory growth. This may be due to the fact that seed Potatoes grown in Scotland are lifted before they are fully ripe, and I am growing more inclined to the opinion that for seed purposes it is much better to lift Potatoes when partially ripe than it is to leave them in the ground until they are fully matured. Again, it is difficult to explain wh) some varieties should be more prone to the trouble than others; but it is so, and the woist I have had this season are Sharpe's Victor, Harbinger, Evergood, and Northern Star. In regard to slicing a bit off the tubers before plant- ing, I may sav that I have experimented in this direction, and possibly if the disease has not got well hold of the tuber at the time (f planting it may be good as a preventive, but otherwise catting is useless. The Vrry fact that cut Potatoes will remain in the soil all the season and never decay at all shows that there is somethirg wrong with them. There is no deiying one fact, i.e., that the trouble is getting very serious, and through it Potato crops in gardens have been reduced very considerab'y in weight during the past few seasons. We want to get to the bottom of it, and obtain if possible a remedy ; and this being so, I am quite sure the EJiior will welcome THE CHIMNEY BELLFLOWBR (CAMPANULA PYRAMIDALIS) SELF-SOWN IN WALL. letters from any readers who are able to throw further light on this very perplexing and trouble- some matter. G. H. THE CHIMNEY BELLFLOWER ON A DRY WALL. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — This is perhaps the best known of all the larger Bellflowers, and is generally recognised by the title of the Chimney Campanula. It is largely employed for the herbaceous border, where it is a very attractive sight in the late summer and early autumn, and is also extensively used for conservatory decoration when grown in large pots. In some cases specimens growing in deep and rich soil will attain a height of upwards of 7 feet, but a dwarfer form has of late years been introduced which is preferred for culture under glass. This handsome Campanula, which is a perfectly hardy subject, varies considerably in habit of growth, some plants throwing up one solitary towering flower -spike, and others producing a thicket of fifty or more, often measur- ing 3 feet in diameter. It is, however, when this Bellflower grows self-sown in a dry wall that it 18 most effective in appearance. In the accom- panying illustration a fine plant is shown growing in this manner. The wall ie about 3 feet in height, and holders a level path that traverser a very steep elope facing due south and becoming dust dry in hot summers. Into the chinks of this wall the seed of the Chimney Campanula has been blown, with the result that there are now a dozen or more fine specimens that are in profuse flower toward the end of August. With age the leaf-tufts have become nearly 2 feet acrofs, and the great heads measure fully i feet through. The position appears to suit the Campanulas to perfection, for in dry summers, when the leaves of their sisters in the border are drooping and wilted, the foliage of these well-grown plants is shapely and firm, the roots evidently finding a cool run some distance below the heaped up soil at the back of the wall. By cutting the flowers as they fade a second supply of bloom is obtained. S. W, FlTZHEKBBRT. WINTER-FLOWERING CARNATIONS. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sib, — It is gratifying to learn that a movement is on foot with the object of founding a eiciety to increase the popularity of the winter-flowering or Tree Carnation. Our American associates have done much to bring the winter Carnations before our notice. An exhibition of this kind in midwinter would make a change between the lasj exhibitionof theNational Chrysanthemum Society and the Royal Horticultural Society's exhibition at the Temple Gardens. For many years we only had a few varieties too well known to mention by name, but now there are plenty of beautiful sorts. As recently as four years ago the culture of winter-flowering Carnations was little considered, but this is altered now. The movement that is being made to form a society should be supported hy all who know the value of these beautiful flowers. J. J. W. NATIONAL HARDY PLANT SOCIETY. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I am sure tfere are many people who would gladly support and join such a society, and that there is much good work for it to do. Comparatively few gardeners rcognise the immense value of hardy plants, their cheap- ness, and how peculiarly well suited they are to our variable Euglish climate. They seem to have been so much better understood and valued two hundred years ago, and one good work for the proposed society would be to review the lists of these plants given in old works, and to find out how many useful ones have been lost or partially eclipsed. Another point could be their arrange- ment at shows. I have only once seen them arranged really effectively, and that was in an amateur exhibit at a Norwich show some years ago. A society, such as your correspondent proposes, could do much to educate public taste with regard to these valuable flowers, and could be a great assistance to the many eminent florists who are helping to much to bring them back to favour, while, at the same time, it might discountenance the high-sounding advertisements of worthless plants, which bring so much dis- appointment to inexperienced garden lovers. I hope that some influential gardeners will take the matter up and start the society. The Rectory, Dorchester. E. M Hill, [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — I was much interested in the letter by "Heather Bell," suggesting the formation of a hardy plant society. Without a doubt such a society would supply a long-felt want, and, if properly conducted, would receive the support of all hardy plant lovers. That there would be January 6, 1906.] THE GARDEN. abundance of work for such a society is obvious. If it toipk up seriously the subject of nomenclature of hardy plants it would have sufficient to do for years to come. To take only one or two genera of hardy plants, viz., S^mpervivum, Sedum, Sixifraga, and Gentian — anyone who has grown a full collection of these will know how hard it is to verify or obtain the correct plant according to the name asked for. The question of exhibitions ia broached — and where can one see what can be honestly called a good hardy plant exhibition ? When hardy plants are shown they are generally bunched, like Cabbiges, put in some sort of receptacle, and placed tier above tier. I think that the best of hardy plants are unknown to the general public ; they are appreciated only by a few enthusiasts. Cheshire. G. M. COX'S ORANGE PIPPIN AND CANKER. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir,— On page 350 of The Garden, Mr. Black- burn complains of Cox's Orange Pippin's liability to canker in his neighbourhood. He does not say what kind of soil it is ; from my experience it thrives best on a warm soil. Top-dressing with wood ashes in the winter and mulching with manure in the summer encourages surface roots, and proves a great check to canker. Injudicious pruning is another cause of failure with Cox's Orange Pippin. The trees should be summer- pruned early in August, omitting the leading shoots until winter. The main branches should be quite IS inches apart, each like a single cordon. I gathered six gallons of fine fruit off a young standard which I had pruned in this way. The branches looked very picturesque when in bloom, and when the fruit was colouring. However, my successor shortened all the main branches and did not summer-prune it; consequently, the tree was soon nothing but wood, and bore only one gallon of Apples in ten years. With regard to Mr. Black- burn's remarks about Bismarck I do not consider it one of the best varieties, but it is greatly improved if the leaders are cut back early in August ; fruit-buds will form on the spurs, and much better crops will be obtained. T. W. Herbert. The Gardens, Nutfield Court, Redhill. BIRDS AND BUDS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] iSiR, — I was very pleased to read your editorial note about "Birds and Buds." The last three winters all my Lilacs and forms of Pyrus have been stripped, not only of flower-buds but also wood- buds, and the trees themselves thereby injured. Apple and Pear trees also were very much damaged. Bullfinches and tomtits are the •culprits. Pishing nets are of no use against the latter. Pear trees, when in fruit and covered with nets, resembled an aviary, and I do not think that I had a dozen Pears that had not been pecked, also all the early Apples and many Cox's Orange were injured. Tomtits do, no doubt, eat many insects, but it is not much good if they also spoil all the fruit. Lime and soot are useless — also firing oflf a gun — unless it be in the right direction. R. D. THE FLOWER GARDEN. LILIES IN 1905. Y hopes of a brilliant Lily season this year, based on the compara- tively dry and warm summer of 1904, have not, unfortunately, been realised. Lilies have, with me, been again more or less unsatisfactory, and this year's failure, following immediately in the wake of its predecessor, is most distressing, so much so that it almost makes m me decide to give up growing Lilies out of doors altogether in this wretched climate. Is the game worth the candle ? Perhaps not ; but should that constitute a sufficient reason for such a cowardly surrender ? For, were there not, even in 1904, a few redeeming successes and beauty spots among the rtickly, the feeble, the flowerless, and faithless? Certainly there were ; and these were all the more lovely and loved by reason of their scarcity. So, in gratitude to the gallant few that have resolutely and unflinchingly endured the vicissi- tudes of two bad seasons in succession in this unsuitable soil and climate, I, for one, feel bound CO persevere, to hope on even against hope, to mulch, to shelter from frost and wind, to stake and to tie, and, finally, to groan once more over the melancholy result ! Proceeding to review briefly the behaviour of the various species grown here in 1905, I find I can record but a very small number which were quite satisfactory, so small that they may be counted on the fingers of a single hand. To begin with, L Hansoni again distinguished itself and was splendid. Many spikes came up, all fully de- veloped, and carrjing fine lieads of bloom. It seems to be a tljoroughly reliable and satisfactory species. L Henryi was also a decided success as usual. Would that the flowers were a bit larger, and the habit of growth less rigid and uncompromising ! I find the best plan with this Lily is to tie the growths to long thin Hazel rods along the under side of the stems, the rods being inserted in the ground near the bulbs so as to conform as natu- rally as possible with the general direction of the stems. Even then the artifioitl nature of the support is frequently only too evident. When growing among tall shrubs the stems, of course, need no staking, and will look after themselves. The Martagons did very well, dalmaticum and D. Catanii especially. So did L. testaoeum (excelsum), and L. Ezovitzianum, though the latter was far less floriferous than in previous favourable seasons. L. RUEELLtTM was not up to its usual standard of excellence, though all my bulbs sent up growths, and several of these flowered. Two blooms on one stem was the record, and not a good one ; I have had four on several former occasions. I do hope that this beautiful Lily is not going off ; it has done so well with me, and I have always reckoned it among the "reliables." And I trust my recent improvements (?) to the bank where it grows may not ruiBe the serenity of its temper in the future. For I have grubbed up the aggressive Lilac bush near the bulbs, and have generally reconstructed the bank in their vicinity, hoping to improve their surroundings, and trusting that the necessary disturbance of one or two of the bulbs may not have any per- manently bad effect on them. These bulbs looked sound and healthy, and were carefully replanted at once with some additional stones and brickbats among them. Though the Lilac bush is gone there is plenty of shade above the spot, also there are no end of Walnut and Cherry roots to keep the soil porous and dry, so all may yet be well. The Elms, Yodding. S. G. Reid. (To be continued.) SEASONABLE THOUGHTS ON SWEET PEAS. The army of Sweet Pea growers will be pro- viding themselves with the necessary ammunition in the shape of seeds immediately, and some rather interesting points may be worth recording at this time for the guidance of those in doubt. The varieties Scarlet Gem and Queen Alexandra are the most beautiful of the scarlet toned sorts. The former has always been magnificent here, but in England, especially, complaints have been numerous about its liability to burn or he fluked with purplish blue marks. At the National Sweet Pea Show Mr. Eckford exhibiied the latter and was granted a certificate of merit. I voted against it because I could not see any improvement over the Scarlet Gem I had at th» show. Oq thinking over the matter afterwards I found that at various shows, as well as the National Sweet Pea Show, the other specimens of Scarlet Gem were all several tones lighter than either Mr. Eckfard's novelty or my Scarlet Gem. I should say, therefore, that Qaeen Alexandra will turn out, when grown in England, very much like Searlet Gem has done in Scotland, and Scottish growers may expect a very deep blood tone of red on the variety Qieen Alexandra. In my opinion there are three tones, one slightly better than Coccinea's cerise shade, the scarlet or arterial blood shade, and the darker blood-red of Qaeen Alexandra. I had a sport last year of the latter, but put the intense colour down to richer treatment. AtDunfeiralineshow, Mr. Brotherson told me that my Scarlet Gem, compared with the best bunch there, was quite two tones richer, although Scotch grown. The sport referred to was two tones at least better than any other Scarlet Gem I had. From what I have written growers will easily infer that I consider Qaeen Alexandra better. It by no means follows that all varieties are alike in this respect. Dora Breadmore, when I saw it in 1904 at the National Sweet Pea Show, was nearly a self, with a somewhat greenish yellow tint and very little pink — in fact, I could not see any pink. On that account, seeing that it was a sport from such a vigorous parent (Jeannie Gordon), I dis- carded Mrs. E. Kenyon and grew Dora Bread- more. I had no reason to grumble, as some truly magnificent flowers were produced, and in great quantity, but I was surprised at the colour. Under high cultivation the pink tone came out and the yellow tone got lower — a pale cream — whereas I expected it would be deeper. The Hon. Mrs. E. Kenyon and this one can, therefore, both be grown and shown in the same collection. Mrs. Kenyon gets deeper in colour with rich feeding. The variety John Ingram I also saw in 1904, and thought very little of it at that time. I was positively pressed to try ten seeds, and reluctantly gave it a good place. What a surprise when the blooms opened — they fairly staggeied me — great blooms, four on a stem, made others look like pigmies. At Ulverston the bunch of twenty spikes had seventy-eight blooms. This sort, a rich, full rose colour, showed extraordinary improvement here over the Euglish ones. Helen Lewis — Some controversy has been going on regarding this lovely sort. I mentioned it in my last article, and one fact was overlooked. There were several bunches shown under different names, and, as previously stated, Mr. Watson, who showed it in 1904, got the medal. His bunch was very fine, but the committee were not asked to say whether that was the best bunch shown — in fact, it was not ; Mr. Bjlton's being easily best. Several of the committee say that the Hon. C. R. Spencer was considered synony- mous with this variety. My notes indicate that I proposed that this variety should receive an award of merit, which was seconded. After discussion it was agreed to see it again. Helen Lewis is an orange-pink, whereas Hon. C. R. Spencer is an orange-scarlet. Growers therefore may look for as great an improvement over Helen Lewis as with Queen Alexandra over Scarlet Gem. Mr. Cole (the raiser) is, I understand, at one with me that it is certainly brighter than the other. Time will tell. A variety that does well in England and not in Scotland is Prince of Wales I have never seen anything to equal the English-grown ones. Lord P^isebery is similar, but not in such a marked degree. These two have bafi3ed me all along, so growers in the two countries can take that for what it is THE GAKDEN. .January 6, 1906. worth. It seems, therefore, that the richer coloured flowers of the South when grown in Scotland intensify their colour note, especially selfs. The case of Dora Breadmore, a bicolor, is different. Towards the very end of the season the body colour was pale cream, but it got crested with a most beautiful brown tint, similiar to that seen on a ripe Apricot when exposed to sun. There is as much difference in many of the shades as in Apples grown in Kent when shown against those of Scotch growth — the one enjoys the sun- shine, the other the shade — we cannot have both, so we are quits. Duns, jV.S. A. Malcolm. STOVE &. GREENHOUSE. SOiME BEAUTIFUL PALMS. A FEW species of Palms easily occupy the premier position among popular decorative plants. What i would the decorator of to-day do L if he could not obtain Kentias, Livistonas, and Phoenixes in large quantities 1 But are we not too conservative in our choice of plants for our tables, rooms, halls, and conservatories ? There are many Palms beside those we grow that have charms of form, habit, and even colour, but they never get a chance to come out to court favour. I can remember when Kentias were as rare as " spotted Crispums," when Cocos weddelliana fetched £5 5s., where it now only realises 2s. 6d. or less ; when Cocos fiexuosa was known only in botanical gardens, and when a Phoenix was voted too stiff and prickly for use anywhere. Then came the elegant Phcenix rupicola, which we all admired, and more recently the pigmy Phrenix Koebelini, which has won so many hearts that Mr. Sander has thought it worth his while to send a collector all the way to Siam to get a million or so of its seeds. Mr. Roebelin, who sent the first plants home sixteen years ago, the largest being now at Kew, says this Phoenix grows along the banks of the Mekong River, where the thermometer falls to 41°, and that its stem is never more than about 2 feet high and 2 inches in diameter. It ought to be at least as good material for the decorator aa the best of Palms, and probably we shall find it much hardier than it is supposed to be. Then there is a lovely little Palm in the West Indies, known as Thrinax Morrisii, which reached Kew from Antigua about twelve years ago, and yet, beautiful as every- one declares it to be, no one has thought of sending some one after a bag of seeds of it. Sometimes we get a good thing without knowing it. For example, a few years ago Messrs. Sander and Sons introduced from Singapore a new species of Livistona named Woodfordii. If it were not for a few small spines on its petioles, and the fact that it is an Eastern Palm, we should declare it to be a ThrinaXj so elegant, slender, and yellow- tinted are its leaves. It was, however, generally passed oyer as of no account, and now at Kew there is a beautiful example of it which attracts everyone, whilst the label causes some to exclaim: "That must be a mistake ; we got rid of that thing long ago as a failure." By the side of this Livistona there is a Palm of quite extraordinary charm — the red - stemmed Cyrtostachys Renda from Singapore. It has the habit and look of Kentia fosteriana, but the stem is of a clear coral-red colour. Three years ago a similar example was shown at the Ghent Quin- quennial, for which £40 was ottered and refused. The exhibitor had the mortification of losing the plant shortly after. This Cyrtostachys develops oftsets freely, so that we may hope to see it well represented in stove collections in a few years. Colour of another kind, but equally attractive, is the bright yellow of the leaf- stalks of a young plant of the King Cocoanut, recently added to the Kew collection. It may not be generally known that the Coccanut Palm enjoys a dose of salt now and then. There is a grand young specimen of the type in the Palm House at Kew. In the same house, and close by the Cocoanut, is one of Kew's greatest treasures, the Double Cocoanut (Lodoicea sechellarum), which looks so healthy and strong that we may consider it established there. Of course, it will never be a rival to the Kentias, as its first leaves are as rigid as tin-plate, and the size of a room door. A Cycas is not a Palm, but the two families are popularly associated, and I would like to mention here the new Cycas Micholitzii from Annam. It is not a "barn-door" plant like C. revoluta, stems of which, thanks to the enterprising Japs, can now be bought of the size and at about the price of Turnips ; but it has a stately elegance all its own, the fronds being 3 feet or more long, gracefully arched ; the broad undulating pinnse are furcate, and even bifurcate, a character of a most remark- able nature in a Cycad. In my opinion this is one of the newest of new plants, so different, indeed, from the other members of the family that it only just failed to be recognised as a new genus. Such plants are only rarely got ; but they are much appre- ciated by the connoisseur when they do come. W. W. NOTES ON THE SWEET-SCENTED CYCLAMEN. Some four or five years ago I had the pleasure of sending the Editor a photograph of a very fine collection of Cyclamen grown by my neigh- bour, Mr. Gait, the well-known gardener at Aldermaston Paik, and added a note that I was endeavouring to raise a strain of sweet- scented flowers. He now atks me to report progress. I am glad to say that my tiforts have been so far successful that I have a strain of Cyclamen for the most part of a bright rose colour, which comes fairly true from seed, with about 75 per cent, of sweet-scented flowers. Now I do not wish to claim any particular virtues in my flowers which are absent in others, but I only state a fact when I say that I have something of my own raising that 1 was unable to buy. I have exceedingly vigorous plants, band- some leaves, flowers of great lasting propeities, and last, but not least, of a delicious perfume. I hope it may encourage others when they find some missing feature in a flower to ste what they can do to remedy it. My fiist remembrance of the Cyclamen is that of a small pink and white flower, very sweet ; in fact, one plant would fill a room with perfume. These bulbs or corms would be dried off carefully every summer, and come up smiling year after year. Then some- where in the seventies I had the piivilege of seeing a collection grown by a Mr. Hook of Brad- field, not far from the now well known college. These were, I fancy, grown on the old system, some of the corms being of immense size, and bearing, if I remember right, seventy or eighty small (to our present way of thinking) and sweet blooms. His leaves were quite different to any I have seen since, banded with white like a Rex Begonia. About this lime I made the acquaint- ance of Mr. Jlartin, the late talented hybridiser at Messrs. Sutton's nursery, and was shown what could be done in one short year from the seed being sown. By 1879 I had quite a nice collec- tion, mostly sweet, with pretty leaves, but owing to absence from home in that wet atd dismal autumn I lost practically the whole of my plants. Since that time I have grown Cyclamen with varying success, owing principally to changes of gardeners, and it was not until some seven years ago that the chance discovery of an old-fashioned Cyclamen in a cottage window, with nothing but its perfume to recommend it, brought back to my mind the possibility of once more getting a sweet-scented strain. I accordingly got a tew pods of seed from this plant, and from the seed- lings made crosses with various other flowers, with the results I have indicated above. There are, it seems to me, a good many sorts of scent, if I may put it so, and I seldom find the old-fashioned perfume except in the white or pink and white. It almost appears that the deeper the colour the less perfume you get, and so far I have not had a sweet Vulcan for instance. I must say no more, but should be glad to hear other and more able Cyclamen growers give their opinions on the subject. I would just add that I do not go in for the so-called Butterfly types. I try, as far as possible, to retain the old and, aa I venture to think, more regularly-shaped flower. Aldermaston, Berks. John T. Strakge. THE ROSE GARDEN, NOTES ON A FEW OF THE NEWER ROSES. 1 SUPPOSE the New Year is suggestive of new Roses ; at any rate, I respond with pleasure to the Editor's request for a few notes. For ardent Rose growers, like the Athenians of old, are ever on the look- out for some new thing, and it must be admitted that great is the fascination of the untried and unknown, even if hard experience sometimes brings a little disappointment. As for new Roses, "they come not single spies, but in battalions " — their name is legion and their names often more or less unpronounceable ; so that, when even experts with golden opportunities can hardly keep count of all, my ambition in this short article must be limited to naming some that appear to give good promise. As a com- paratively new Rose La Tosca is hard to beat for bedding and massing. Viscountess Folkestone has enjoyed a, well-deserved popularity, but La Tosca is in several refpecls an improvement on that beauti- ful variety. For effect one must depend largely on light Roses, and with its sturdy bushy growth and soft pink flowers freely produced La Tosca^ has all the virtues of a good bedding Rose. We have been so well supplied with light or creamy white Roses, though some have proved excellent for exhibition, that it is refreshing to note the advent of one or two yellow Roses of promise. Not that we have >et anything equal to MsK^cbal Niel — that grand Rose with great limitations — but we are led to anticipate that in the not distant future hybridists may secure for us a fine hardy vigorous yellow Rose of exhibition standard. Le Progres is certainly an advance in this direction. The growth and foliage are good, and with its beautiful deep yellow buds it is a decided acquisition. The flowers are not over-full, but it has been exhibited in good form. Another Rose of much promise is Mme. Hector LeuiUiot, like Le Progres intro- duced by Pernet-Ducber, in colour golden-yellow, tinted with apricot. It is a good grower of semi- climbing habit, and clearly a fine Rose for a standard. And for a third, by the same raiser. January 6, 1906. J THE GAKDEJN. ineDtioDmust also be made of that delightful new Rose M. Joseph Hill, described as salmon-pink, shaded with yellow, certainly charming in culour, and probably a useful Rose to exhibitors, even if the blooms should require a little management. Mme. Clarence Jtioranville, a sport from that excellent Rose Caroline Testout, and of a some- what lighter shade of pink, would seem well worth a trial. Not all the Testout sports have realised expectations, but this one appears to possess merit, inasmuch as the flowers show less tendency to ball, a fault frequently conspicuous in the original. Another sport, and one that can be confidently recommended, is Perle von Oodesherg, from the well-known Kaieerin A. Victoria. It is deeper in colour and, I think, an improvement on that variety, which is, of course, saying much in its favour. Oustav Orunerwald has been so recently and minutely described in The Garden that I will merely draw attpntion to it. Vigorous in growth, it is useful both for general garden purposes and as a fine early show Rose ; colour bright carmine, shaded salmon. i'*' l;"*^ t-j -j" '■■, Lady Ashtown will undoubtedly prove a popu- lar garden Rose, being a good grower, with well- shaped flowers of a taking shade of pink. As a pot Rose David Harum is particularly fine, and the blooms are attractive enough outside when fresh, but they lose colour qiiickly, and a washed-out pink is not beautiful. Nevertheless, David Harum will doubtless have admirers. Climbing Papa Oontier is a grand strong- growing sport of that favourite Rose Papa Gontier, and is a really good addition to the climbers, flowering freely and continuously. I must also note Comtesse du Cayla as a fine and very charm- ingly coloured China which will be welcomed by all lovers of this highly decorative section. Mme. Laurette Messimy and Mme. Eugene Resal marked great advances, but they are surpassed by Comtesse du Cayla. In the Tea section — rather neglected, I fear, owing to the strong favour shown to Hybrid Teas — I should especially like to mention Mme. Jean Dupuy and Mme. Vermorel as distinctly valuable additions. There are many others one would fain name, but space forbids. Suffice it to say there are others, and among them some of the beet. Sutton. E. J. Holland. its colouring amongst Roses. One wonders I confusing name of Polyantha, to which had to EOSE FKAU KAKL DKUSCHKI. The photograph of Fran Karl Druschki was taken on September 30, and shows what lovely flowers can be cut from this Rose in the autumn. It is a most constant bloomer, never ceasing to flower till stopped by frost. G. A. Hammond SOME POMPON ROSES. One is glad to notice that this delightful section of our garden Roses is coming somewhat more to the front of late years. As a general rule they only find a place in our gardens as isolated plants, or at the most as edgings for the stronger growing Roses ; but their rightful use, I am convinced (as one can say of most, if not of all, dwarf Roses), is to grow them by themselves in separate beds, and, if possible, with separate varieties to each bed. I came across last summer a delightful Rose garden wherein most effective use was made in the manner indicated of these Pompons. In a garden of quite recent construction the design was split up, so to speak, by smaller beds containing only some half-dozen plants, and the effect gained was heightened by the careful choice of colour. During the last five years there have been added to our lists of these Roses about a dozen varieties, most of them good, all of them pretty ; no doubt there are others, but of the following I speak from personal experience. In 1900 we had the two Lameschs, Eugenie and Leonie, the latter the more distinct of the two ; in fact, unique in often whether the curiously distorted buds can Hver open into a beautiful flower, but they do. I was inclined at one time to discard it as not worth growing, but the plants improve every year. Schneewittchen (1901) produces its small creamy white flowers in pyramidal tjunses. It is not such a good while as the older Anna Maria de Monlravel. Aschenbrodel (1902) is distinctly good, its colour of that more or less indescribable be added the adjective dwarf. They can be planted with success right up to March. Hekhert E. Molynbux. LIFTING ROSES. "My Roses don't do well " is a remark often made to rae by many of ray friends, although ihey have an ideal spot in which to grow Ihem. .hade generally called peach, with orange-salmon The reason I find in a great many eases is that the centre, and well-shaped flowers produced in pro- trees in the first instance were badly planted fusion. Philippine L^mbert I have not grown, they are left in the same place year after jeari but it is described as silvery flesh in colour, and in the autumn they receive a heavy mulching Mme. N. Levavasseur has been rather boomed of wet, sticky, cold manure round the roots, as a dwarf crimson rambler of perpetual which turns the ground sour after several applica- flowering character, a not unfair description, but tions, and deadly cold as well, half ihe summer the colour is not, to my way of thinking, pleading. 1903 brought us Schneekopf, a purer white than Schneewittchen. Last year Kleiner Alfred, a delight- ful flower that I can strongly re- commend, very free flowering, of variable shades of colour, ranging from red to orange and lemon yellow, probably the best of those men- tioned. Another of this year is Frau Cecile Walter, colour yfiUow, which is wanted in this section, but I am afraid it loses its colour directly the outside petals reflex ; a good grower. All thefe new Pompon Roses have reached us from P. Lambert, with the single ex- ception of Mme. N. Leva vass e u r , which comes from the grower of that name. It is difficult to see how this sec- tion can be much improved. We do not want the flowers larger. All the colours are well represented, except that pei- haps we might have some riark ciimsous They are easily grown, hardy, very beau- tiful, and are the Roses of all Roses for children's gardens. My favourites are, I think, Perle d'Or, Etoile d'Or, Kleiner Alfred, Petit Constant (this latter should be much more grown). Mignonette, Aschenbrodel, Cecile Brunner, Leonie Lamesch, Mme. E. A. Noll^, and Perle des Rouges. One other use to which they may be put with considerable success is as pot Roses under glass. They form, if carefully pruned, delightful minia- ture Rose trees for conservatory and house decoration, and one must not forget their useful- ness for table decoration. Every Rose garden should have some of these delightful Roses. The National Rose Society has decided to call them Pompon in preference to their old and somewhat specimen TLOWEB of rose ERAD KARL DRUSCHKI (REDUCED). (From a photograph sent by Mr. Hammond } having gone before the soil gets warm again. I went the other day to see a friend's Roses recently planted ; there they were, smothered with the nastiest, rankest, coldest manure I have ever seen, and inches thick into the bargain. It made me quite shudder to look at the poor things. No wonder they "don't do." I am a great advocate for lifting Roses, and putting the manure underneath them instead of on top. I am quite sure if this were more frequently done better results would follow. Every few years Roses should, in my opinion, be lifted, the beds thoroughly dug at least two spits deep, and the manure put well below the surface. As soon as the Roses are lifted the roots should be pruned, 8 THE GARDEN. [January 6, 1906. removing with a sharp knife all those of extra length, especially those which are fibreless, or stiff ones which go straight down. It is also a splendid opportunity to cut out all suckers (and many of my friend's Roses have plenty); these should be cut clean out. It is easy to distinsjuish a Eucker from a root, for the foimer gets thicker, and the latter s??ia^^e»-, the farther it gets from the stem. Having performed these operations the Roses should be replanted, but before doing so a large portion of the top soil of the old bed should be taken away and replaced by good fibrous loam, i.e., top spit that has been stacked some twelve months. If the Roses are planted in this, surface root action will be the result. This is most important, as all plants should be dependent on horizontal surface roots. This is well understood by gardeners of any experience, for do they not take great pains with their fruit trees to cut the tap roots, and will often lift Vines and Peach trees if unfruitful, prune the roots, and replant nearer the surface, so as to encourage them to throw out more fibrous surface roots, knowing quite well that the produce from the tap roots is gross wood only without fruit, and it is to the fibrous roots they must look to produce blossom and fruit. As with the fruit tree, so with the Rose, the old long fibreless roots only produce long stout canes and few very poor flowers. But many may say. What is the use of burying a quantity of manure below the roots if they are not allowed to go down to it? Just so ; moisture is always more or less rising up through the earth, though, of course, a quantity in time of rain, or immediately after, sinks down through it. It rises most of all when the sun shines hot and the surface is dry, and then the Rose which likes heat and a friable air-permeated surface above, and a " cool bottom " below, rejoices in the rich moisture which the roots appropriate as it rises through the manure from below. While thus recommending the placing of all manure beneath the horizontally planted roots. ROSE MME. d'aEBLAY (20 FEET IN HEIGHT) AT ROTHAMSTBD COTTAGE, HARPENDEK. I am a strong believer in feeding the plants with artificial manure on the surface, especially if the Roses are replanted, as I have suggested , in soil of the right material, but it must be borne in mind that artificial fertilisers must be used with care and judgment, and the Dutch hoe be kept con- stantly at work on the surface ; jg Hot-beds and the renewal of linings to pits should not be neglected. For the latter the litter straight from the stable yard is suitable, but for hot-beds much more care is necessary. Fresh leaves and litter — rather more litter than leaves — should be turned together into a heap, taking care that the litter is well shaken out and not thrown up in big forkfuls. After having been thrown into a heap it should be allowed to remain for several days to heat, then turned again at similar intervals until the rank heat is exhausted. Keep the heap cone-shaped, so as to throw off heavy ra'ns. Forced Vegetables. — Pits containing vege- tables, such as autumn-sown Ciuliflowers that are pricked out, Lettuce, Parsley, &c , should be freely ventilated on all favourable occasions. Forced Asparagus and French Beans will require more warmth, but at no time should the top-heat be very high, for a high temperature is conducive to weak growth, 55*^ to 60" at night, with a rise of 5° to 10* during the day being sufficient at this time of the year. Nurserymen's catalogues being now to hand the vegetable seed order should be made out as soon as possible, choosing varieties suitable to the locality. J. Jaques. Brymuton Garden's, Blandford. THE FRUIT GARDEN. PEAR CHARLES ERNEST. A LARGE and handsome fruit of a yellowish colour, crimson on the sunny side, and marked with russet dots, is the above. It is L of excellent flavour, and may be regarded as a valuable late variety. Either as a pyramid, espalier, or cordon on the Quince stock it bears well. Messrs. James Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, raised this Pear, which received an award of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society in December, 1900. THE SMALL ORCHARD. In advocating the planting of the above, I do not mean to say that the adoption of this plan on a large scale throughout the kingdom would, for instance, settle the unemployed question ; but I do believe that in time it would become a power- ful factor in that direction. It is practically admitted by those best able to judge that the chief cause of unemployment in towns, which is assuming so serious an aspect at the present moment, is due to the too free migration of the young men and young women from the country to the towns, tempted by the apparent higher wages and the excitement of town life. Now, of all the accessories of a pleasant country cottage, we know of nothing comparable to the possession of a well- planted fruitful orchard. It is full of interest and never tires. Even in winter, when Nature is apparently at rest, the trees invite inspection and attention in the way of some slight pruning, and by the promise, indicated by the buds, of good or bad crops of fruit for the coming year, and in many other ways. In the spring there is no picture in park or garden landscape more beau- tiful to witness than an orchard in bloom. In summer where can a pleasanter, more sheltered, or happier resort out of doors be found for children to play in, and for the aged and infirm in the de- cline of life, where can a healthier or better spot be selected to rest in, in the heat of summer, than in the corner of an orchard under the shade of a well-fruited Apple tree? In the autumn there is a generous reward in the shape of luscious and health-giving fruit. There is no other form of husbandry which offers so generous a return for the small outlay of labour and money expended. After the initial outlay of buying the trees, planting, and protecting, the labour required to maintain them in healthy growth afterwards is small indeed compared with the results to be obtained. I should like to see a small orchard of this description attached to every country January 6, 1906.] THE GARDEN. la workman's cottage (or situated as near to it as circumstances would allow), say, a quarter of an acre in extent. This would hold from fift}- to sixty standard trees of Apples, Pears, and Plume, but mostly Apples should be planted. A work- man possessing such an adjunct to his home would hesitate long before giving up his home for the hollow pleasures of a life in the crowded and unhealthy tenements of a town. Such orchards multiplied at this rate would, in a few years' time, go far to make good the deficiency in the fruit supply of this country, which has now to be made good by importation, and for which we pay annually the immense sum of one and a-half millions sterling. Slowly, and almost impercep- tibly, orchard planting at an increased rate has been going on in this country during recent years. Within the past four years the agricul- tural returns show an increased area placed under fruit culture in Great Britain of about 10,000 acres. This is chiefly the result of planting for market in large breadths by farmers and mark< t gardeners, and should before many years are over make a material difference in favour of our national supply of fruit. But my appeal is ba^ed solely on the value and advantage a small orchard such as that suggested would have, not only in bettering financially the condition of the worker, but in adding much interest and happiness to his otherwise more or less monotonous and lonely life, and in helping to take away from him that fatal longing for town life, which afterwards, in the majurity of cases, proves so disastrous to himself and his family. How such an orchard may be formed and planted will appear in a future early issue. Owen Thomas. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— T^ Editor intenda to make THE GARDEN helpful to all readers who desire assist- ancCt no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and loith that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents" colum,n. All communications should be clearly and concisely tvritten on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOR of THE GARDEN, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sen*, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Leg'a.l Points.— IFe are prepared to answer questions of law which have anything to do with the s^ibject of gardening and forestry. The questions should be as clear as possible. Answers will be found in a separate column headed "Legal Points." FLOWER GARDEN. Cube and Prevention of Chrysanthemum Leat-rust (R. H.). — Yes, there is an excellent cure and preventive of Chrysanthemum leaf-rust, which may be brought about in the following manner : The first thing one has to do when a plant is affected is to isolate it, pick off the affected leaves and burn them — not throw them on the rubbish heap as so many growers are prone to do. Mr. Massee of Kew, in a lecture he gave before the members of the National Chry- santhemum Society, suggested, when the disease is first seen, the removal of all suspicious plants, and spraying the remainder with a solution of sulphide of potassium. Mix half an ounce of the latter in a gallon of clear water and thoroughly stir. He also advised the careful destruction of old leaves and stems, and the best way of doing this was to burn them. Spray both the under sides of the leaves as well as their upper surface, also treating the old stems to a liberal application of the remedy. Houses in which there are no plants in green leaf might be sprayed with a solution of sulphate of iron, and plants in a dormant condition might be treated thus without causing injury. The resting spores must be destroyed if the fungus is to be stamped out. This must be done during the winter. LiLiuM auratom Bdlbs Destroyed {F. P.). We know of no insect liable to attack Lily bulbs as you describe, but we are of opinion that the small round hole pierced through the centre of the bulbs is the work of the swift moth's larva. As the bulbs had a wretched appearance last year, the mischief was probably done last winter, and the larva has before now developed into the perfect insect, and is not likely to trouble you further. Oiher larv;e bore holes through under- ground roots in a similar manner, but without specimens for examination it is difficult to deter- mine exactly what the depredator is. It is characteristic of the borings of the swift moth's larva to be small, generally straight, and quite PEAR CHARLES ERNEST. in the middle of the root or rootstock. It generally inhabits Pasony roots, but may be found in any bulb or tuber. Weedy Lawn (A. M. P.). — The sample piece of turf you sent shows your lawn to be literally eaten up with weeds, hardly a blade of grass being in evidence. We find first the little creeping weed you refer to, which we take to be a perennial Chick weed, probably Alsine pubescens. That is the dominant weed ; but there is also present the common crowfoot or Ranunculus, also the Yarrow, or Milfoil, and Clover. Even if you got rid of the creeping weed, you could not so readily destroy the others, as they are strong rooters and grow rapidlj'. Scratching the weedy spots with a sharp-toothed iron rake daily would get rid of, or thin out, many of the creeping weeds ; but really the sample sent is so bad that we see no prospect whatever of your being able to clean the lawn without literally forking it up, burying the weedy surface well down, then either putting, down new clean grass turves or sowing clean lawn grass seed. Mossy Lawn (Lonyhumt). —When moss makes its appearance it is usually a sign that, the soil is poor, although it may indicate the need for drainage. You will be able to determine which of these two is likely to be responsible for the moss in your lawn. Draining, however, usually means a lot of work and spoiling the appearance of the lawn for a considerable time,, so we should advise you to try and improve the- grass. Raking the lawn well stimulates growth, and also gets rid of a good deal of the moss. When you have done this the lawn should be top- dressed with some good soil which has been pre- viously prepared. It should be in the propor- tion of one of lime to four of good rich loamy soil. We should advise you to add as directed by the manufacturers some good lawn manure. If some two or three weeks after the top-dreesing is applied you sow some of the best grass seed thickly, this will grow and keep down the moss. Sow the seed towards the end of March. A. W. Hitchin.—Yoa had better reduce the number of water sDails in the Water Lily tank, as when too numerous they are a great nuisance by depositing their eRga all over the underneath suiface of the Water Lily leaves.— W. J. TOWNSESD. Kent. — The box of seedling blooms was so damaged that it was difficult for us to accurately determine their respec- tive merits. They are all single-flowered sorts, and as such should prove useful decorative plants, either as plants for the conservatory or for cutting. No. 1, pale butf-yellow, promises well, though the petals are some- what lacking in substance. No. 2 we think very well of. The flowers are of good form and freely produced, the rosy mauve colour is charming, especially under artiflcial light. By all means grow this one again. No. 3, the canary yellow flower, is a true type of a single having a single row of petals. The two blooms were much damaged. When sending flowers next time, please pack them in. a wooden box. ROSE GARDEN. Roses fob Screen (If. C. B.). — You will be able to form an excellent screen in two years if you plant good strong specimens of the Roses vou name. The prepared border and the aspectare good, but as the screen will receive the full force of east and west winds you need hardy Roses. The wichuraianas are excellent for this work, especially a variety named Sweetheart. The foliage of this sort is very pretty and persistent. Other good sorts are Jersey Beaut}', Alberic Birbier, Dorothy Perkins, Evergreen Gem, Alba rubifolia, Rene Andre, and Gardenia. It is a very good idea also to mix with them some of the Penzance Briars, especially such as Anne o£ Geierstein. You should add Felicite Perp^tue, Aglaia, Polyantha grandiflora, and ReineOlgade Wurtemburg. Their foliage is well retained, and the plants are of rapid growth. Plant 3 feet apart, or if you want quick effect then 2 feet 6 inches. When the plants become too dense you can always reduce the number of growths. Standard Mabechal Niel Under Glass {M. F. W.). — When this Rose is planted out the best treatment is to cut back the growths to within 1 inch or 2 inches of the stock at the time of planting. You should therefore do this at once. When the Rose commences to grow select two shoots only, and rub off all the others. These two should be trained right and left immediately under the bottom wires, and they should be encouraged to grow freely. By the end of the season the two long growths will have extended to the end of the house, and possibly there will be some growth to train up the roof. The next spring blossoms will appear along the two growths, and as soon as they have fallen cut back all shoots to the main branches, and when new shoots break out select those to be retained about U inches apart, rubbing off all others. These shoots will probably reach to the top of the house, and the next season, if their unripened ends are removed, you will have several blossoms upon each. The plant of Field 14 THE GARDEN. [January 6, 1906. Marshal upon the wall should have its growths well spread out, but do not prune it back very much. The more you spread this Rose out on the wall the better it will be for its future development. Roses for Pergola {Rosophile). — The soil of your garden appears to be excellent for Roses, but we would suggest that the subsoil be broken up. If you could mix with the subsoil some half-inch bones, and also some good farmyard manure, the success of your pergola would be more certain. We append a list as requested of fast growing sorts. Against such varieties that would be suitable to plant on north side we have placed an asterisk. Fast growers, flowering in June, *Carmine Pillar, *Aglaia, Eaphrosyne, Polyantha grandiflora, *Robusta, Blairii No. 2, Reice Olga de Wurtemburg, and *Jersey Beauty ; flowering in July, *F^licite Perp^tue, *Flora, *Mme. d'Arblay, *Crimson Rambler, Rabin, Dorothy Perkins, and Pink Pearl ; summer and autumn flowering, Reve d'Or, Mme. Alfred Carri^re, Noella Nabonnand, Climbing Caroline Testout, and Climbing C iptain Christy ; moderate growing sorts for pillars, flowering in June, *Electra, *The Wallflower, *Conrad F. Meyer, and Alberic Birbier ; flowering in July, *Bennett'd Seedling, *Blush Rambler, Tea Rambler, and *Helene ; summer and autumn flowering, Long- worih Rambler, *Aim^3 Vibert, Giiiss anTeplitz, Frar9ois Crousse, Mme. Jules Siegfried, *Wal- tham Climber No. 1, Mme. Jules Gravereaux, *PiQk Rovar, and Lady Waterlow. A. B. C. — It 13 not at all au uncommon occurrence for cer- tain varieties of Rjses to make unsound unions with the stock, and thia is especially noticeable when the Manetti is used. The frosts in May are usually accountable for the de- fective union. We have often found that such plants may be saved by earthing them up above the junction in order to induce the Rose to form new roots at that point. As this Rose is now so cheap we question whether it would pay you to trouble about these sickly specimens. We certainly think the seedling or cutting Briar is the heat stock for this glorious Rose. TREES AND SHRUBS. Berrt-bearing Shrubs {E. Bertram).— Var- nettya mucronata, Cotoneaster horizontalis, Ber- beris stenophylla, B. Darwinii, Symphoricarpus racemosus (Snowberry), and Skimmia jiponica are suitable plants for your purpose. We should, however, advise you to include the Sea Buck- thorn (Hippophae rhamnoides), which bears male and female flowers on different plants. With the exception of the first two and the Skimmia, the above will grow fairly tall in time. Your border is far too narrow for shrubs. Do not plant later than the end of April. The best time to plant is at once if the weather keeps mild and the ground is not too wet. If frost and wet make present planting impossible, defer it until March. Christmas Tree (Norsernan)— The conifer that is grown fur Christmas tret-s throughout Surrey and Hamp- shire is the common Spruce (Picea e.^celSH), which is literally grown in thouaands for the supply of the London market. Large numbers also come into England from the Continent, chiefly from France and Germany, and are sold very cheaply in the smaller sizes, from 2i feet to 4 feet high. These are not very profitable to grow, but for really good trees from 6 feet and upwards in height a good price can be obtained. The demand for these large trees, however, is very limited, so that on the whole the growing of Christmas trees does not yield very much profit. THE GREENHOUSE. Japanese Chrysanthemums for Market {Chrysmdh). — There are several first-class white kinds that should maintain a display from the early days of November till Christmas. The following are those we recommend : Ivory, dwarf, pure white, free flowering ; Elaine, although an old sort, is still one of the best pure whites ; and Guy Hamilton, a pure white, fine quality flowers, a splendid variety for flowering in small pots. The three foregoing sorts should be grown for November displays ; for December blooming you cannot do better than procure stock of Western King, one of the most useful white Chrysanthemums, purest white with greenish centre ; Niveum, a splendid late white ; and Princess Victoria, a creamy white flower of good form, largely grown for market, flowering late in December and the early part of the Now Year. Should you desire an additional sort for November displays try Siuvenir de Petite Amie, a pure white, dwarf, and very bushy. Bulbs and Chrysanthemums (Z) D. ). — As your bulbs are well rooted you may now take them under glass. Yes, you can bring them into flower in an ordinary garden frame, providing you keep it frost-proof by well covering with mats, &c. , during frosty weather. Good varieties of early-flowering Chrysanthemums are Harvest Horn's, Crimson Marie Masse, Mme. Marie Masse, Mychett White, Ryecrof t Glory, George Wermig, Goacher's Crimson, Queen of the Earlies, Kitty, Roi des Precof es, Carrie, and Ivy Stark. Flower them in pots of 10 inches diameter. Put in the cuttings as soon as you can get them any time in January, or even later. Lily of the Valley {Broadwater). — Your question regarding the L'ly of the Valley is a difficult one to answer, as you say yours are Berlin clumps, whereas those from the neigh- bourhood of Berlin are single crowns or eyes tied up in bundles of twenty-five each. The clumps are sent here principally from Holland. The clumps each carry a mass of soil with the eyes embedded therein, while the Berlin crowns have no soil at all attached to them, but a good quantity of roots. The two need different treat- ment, hence the difficulty in answering your question. For early forcing the Berlin crowns are preferable. They start into growth more readily, but the roots being clear of soil the foliage and spikes are apt to flag when the sun gains strength. The Dutch clumps, as their roots have been undisturbed, are not affected in the same way. The soil in which the Berlin crowns are potted matters little, as they do not root before flowering. It should, however, be of a fairly holding nature. Firm potting is essential. Place fifteen crowns in a pot 5 inches in diameter, lu potting these crowns about half an inch of the upper part should stand above the surface of the soil. To induce them to bloom early they need to be plunged in a bottom-heat o* 70*^ to SO", and to have the crowns just covered with the plunging material. A close propagating case is just the place for them then. Dutch clumps need potting in suitable sized pots at such a depth that the crowns are just covered with the soil. Whether in a greenhouse or framo these will come on gradually and flower freely. The Berlin crowns will do well out of doors, but the first season the flowers are seldom satisfactory, as the roots are not established. The second year, however, they will do better. H. T. Allman.—Aa the Bouvardias go out of flower towards spring, a few weeks' rest will be beneficial by withholding water from the roots and placing the planta in a dry house or pit, which will induce most of the foliage to fall, the same as one would treat Fuchsias in the autumn. The wood will then become well ripened and will break more strongly when the time arrives for cutting the plants back and starting them again into growth, which should be towards the end of April. E. C. Crotmie.— Azalea Deutsche Perle is probably the most useful of all Indian Azaleas, as it comes into bloom very early in the season without anything approaching forcing. We had some plants that expanded their pure white blossoms in the open air in September, and since that time have had a succession of bloom from plants in quite cold houses. If slightly forced one year and allowed to complete their growth early under glass, the plants will naturally bloom the next season quite soon enough with- out the aid of any artificial heat. Being semi-double and the petals beautifully rounded and firm, they are ideal flowers for cutting. A. J. C— Though hardy in a few of the more favoured dis- tricts of this Cftuntry, Solanum jasminoides does best in the greenhouse. One thing in its favour is that when grown as a roof or rafter plant, the foliage not being dense, the light is in no way obstructed, a desirable feature in a climbing plant. Planted out in a bed of good rich loam and given plenty of head room, it may be had in flower for six months at a time, and by pinching it can be had in flower at Christmas, when its pure white flowers will be found valuable for cutting, being light and elegant in appearance. Under glass, especially when shaded, the flowers are pure white, but outdoors they are often tinged with bluish-mauve^ KITCHEN GARDEN. Sowing Vegetable Sleds (J. E. P.).— The times for the sowing of seeds to produce crops at particular periods of the year depend so largely on the nature of the soil and the average tempera- ture of the district where they are to be sown that it is possible to give only general information, and not such as can be regarded as entirely exact. Etrly Ciuli flower of the Snowball type, and even Walcheren to succeed that, should be sown under glass to get plants to cut early in June and July. Celery in the same way should be sown under glass, the plants being dibbled out thinly in frames to grow strong before going out into trenches. Peas — to have some quite early, such as Early Giant — should be sown on a warm border, and late ones, like Autocrat, on a cool or north border. To make several small sowings of vegetables at frequent intervals is often better practice than sowing all the seed at one time. J. B. £.— The chief cause of decay amongst the Tripoli section of Ojiions during the winter is looseness at the base. Of course frost is usually blamed for blanks in Onion beds, but if the individual plants can be kept upright and flrm at the base they will stand almost any deeree of frost. We always notice that after a windy autumn Tripoli Oaions winter indifferently, unless care is taken to go over the beds and to raise the plants, making them flrm with the feet. When once they are blown over and the topmost rootlets exposed frost soon finishes them. We have some- times afterwards firmly mulched well up over the bulbs with leaf-mould. FRUIT GARDEN. Trees Cankered (B. A. J.). — Your trees are badly cankered, and we should advise you to take them up, burn them, and plant young, strong trees in their place. Some varieties of Pears, and also of Apples, are more disposed to canker than others, and these should not be planted where canker is likely to occur. The Jargonelle and Golden and Brown Beurr(5 Pears are liable to canker in some districts, and we should advise you to try different varieties to those you have found to be inclined to canker. The four chief causes of canker are soft, sappy growths, frost, heat, and wounds. The three latter, however, follow naturally from the first, as if a tree makes stout, healthy wood that ripens well it is not liable to be damaged by sun or frost, while the making of healthy well-ripened wood obviates the necessity of much pruning. Canker is not so much a disease as it is a result of constitutional weakness, either hereditary or caused by over or under cropping, badly drained soil, &c. By keeping a tree in good health canker will be avoided, but the subject of the proper treatment of fruit trees is too large a one for the space at our disposal, and we should advise you to procure a small text-book on the subject which deals with the general treatment of fruit trees, as well as the special culture needed for some varieties. Peach with Soft Wood (J. E.). — Our experience of the pithy, green, and soft wood of Peach trees points to sluggish and weak root action as being the cause rather than to any conditions of atmosphere or summer treatment of the trees. You say your soil is poor and stiff. This would lead us to the conclusion that a tree which had been planted for some years in such a soil was exhausted, and that in consequence it must be devoid of the full complement of healthy, fibrous roots which a tree must have if it is to produce heavy crops of fruit and properly matured wood in autumn. Some growers practi- cally replant their trees in new soil every year with splendid results. We do not know the age or the size of your trees. If they are large and old we should not go to this extent, but we should certainly find out the extremities of the roots and lift them for a considerable distance, placing them in new soil well prepared in the usual way. The secret of success lies in securing plenty of young fibrous roots. Without the tree possess these in abundance it is little use top- dressing the borders, but with them the appli- cition of such stimulants is invaluable. We also think that exposure to the weather night and day January 6, 1906.] THE GAKDEIN. 15 in late Bummer and autumn after the fruit is gathered, by taking off the lights, very materially helps to ripen the wood growth. More Fruit.— Xa your preaent old bushes are bearing no fruit, they are cumbering the land to no purpose. They should be grubbed up without loss of time, the ground trenched 'it, feet deep, adding a liberal supply of manure while the "trenching is goiug on. Replant as soon as possible with young trees, and with ordinary care after- wards in pruning and keeping the land clean you will have an abundance of Currants for very many years. MISCELLANEOUS. Woodpecker.— The sprayer you mention is excellent. JFerret.—lbe plant is probably Amaryllis Belladonna (the Belladonna Lily). Names of Plants.— Cons(an( Reader.— The specimens sent by you as Oyperus alternifolius are correctly named, though very weak, and the other is the plant grown in gardens as Cyperus natalensis, whose correct botanical name is Mariscua umbilensis. Name of Frdit.— £. Hart, Tetbury.— The Pear is Beuir^ Baltet P^re. Questions. The Pride of Madeira.— Can anyone tell " Ferret " the name of a plant known in Madeira as The Pride of Madeira ? Field Mice.— There are a great many field mice in the dry walls of my garden. I have tried poisoning them with meal mixed with strychnine, but they will not eat it. How can I exterminate them?— E. M. Blaokbukn, Tkakeham, Pulborough. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. SELECT VEGETABLES FOR 1906. E^ ARLY in the year those who require a good supply of the best vegetables 4 make their selections. In January, and as early in the month as possible, ^ choose the seeds for the ensuing season. It often happens that through delay the desired varieties cannot be obtained, the supply being limited has run out, and others are substituted. One cannot blame the seedsmen. Peas. — Doubtless these come first on the list in most gardens, as many can grow this vegetable who have not room for Potatoes. The crop may be divided into three seasons — early, mid-season, and late. For sowing on early borders for late May and June supply I advise such sorts as Chelsea Gem, one of the best earlies, which still maintains its good character, as when first sent out, in crop, quality, and dwarf ness. Other good sorts are Seedling Marrowfat and the new Miy flower, a cross between the excellent Daisy and Wm. Hurst, a very early dwarf Pea ; and that excellent Pea Acme, a cross between Veitch's Eirly and Stratagem, the latter being one of the best Peas ever introduced. To follow these, i.e., ten days later, there is a splendid selection, and the following are all good : Daisy, Buttercup, and Danby Stratagem (the latter a distinct improvement on the older Stratagem), Early Giant, Ideal, May Queen, and Bountiful (the latter where quantities are required). For mid-season grow such as Criterion (not a large pod, but a very prolific variety). Main Crop, and, where the soil is a deep loam. Perfection is an excellent variety. The well-known Duke of Albany, Peerless Marrowfat, Eureka, Best of All, and Prolific Marrow are all good. To these may be added Model Telegraph and Common- wealth. For late supplies there are excellent selections, and the best are Autocrat, Windsor Castle, Late Queen, Continuity, and Latest of All, the favourite Michaelmas Pea, and such sorts as a good stock of Ne Plus Ultra, Queen, Emperor, and Goldfinder. Beans will occupy less space, and of the three sections the dwarf sort is moat useful, as seed can be sown at several dates to form a suc- cession. For early supplies Early Gem, Early Wonder, Eirlj' Favourite, and Forcing are excellent. All the above are useful for growing in pots, and these may be followed by Progress, a grand Bean ; this is a continuous cropper, and lasts from June till October. For later use the well-known Canadian Wonder is a standard variety. In the runner section the new Hack- wood Park Success, the Giant White and Mam- moth Scarlet, Jubilee, and that grand Bean Prize- winner, are all good varieties. In the climbing Bean section, Eirliestof All, Epicure, Tender and True, Ten Weeks, and Climbing are most valu- able in gardens of small size. G. Wythks. ( To be continued. ) FLOWERS FOR THE GREENHOUSE. First Prize Paper. I.— Name twenty bulbous plants that will flower in a cold (unheated) greenhouse from January 1 until the end of March. Give a short account of the culture they require. 1. Anemone fulgens (February to April) — This should be potted in rich foil in o-inch pots in autumn, and kept in a shady place until growth commences. 2. Cyclamen Cjum (January and February). — In autumn these bulbs should be procured and potted into 5-inch pots in soil con- taining plenty of leaf-soil and lime rubble. Cover the bulbs lightly, and keep fairly dry until growth commences. An occasional syringing will be bene- ficial. Good drainage is essential. 3. Crocus (February and March). — Secure good bulbs in autumn, and place six or seven in a 5-inch pot in fairly good soil. Plunge in ashes until full of roots ; then bring into pit or house and place in a light position. Secure a succession by bringing in pots as wanted. Keep well watered when growing freely. 4. Chionodoxa Lucili«. 5 C. gigantea (January to March) — These are seen at their beet under the cold house treatment. The noil should consist of loam, leaf-soil, and sand. Bulbs should be potted in autumn and treated as advised for Crocus, except that five or six bulbs should be put into a 3-inch pot. 6. Erythronium Dens-canis (February and March). — These should be potted in light soil, preferably loam and peat, inserting the bulbs in 5-inch pots, and well cover- ing with soil in autumn. Take into house as required. 7- Galanthus Elwesii (January and February). — About ten bulbs should be placed in a 5 inch pot, covering with ashes or fibre ; then give the same treatment as for Crocus. 8 Roman Hyacinths. — Pot in August, four in a 5-inoh pot, and plunge into ashes, from which they should be removed when well rooted, and then treated as the Crocus. These can be had in flower in March if properly attended to. 9. Iris reticulata. 10 I Histrio. 11. I. caucasica (January to March). — These will succeed if planted six in a 5-inch pot in October, and plunged to the rim in ashes. The soil should be rather good and sandy. If placed in cold frames until they are in flower they will make a nice show. 12. Leucojum vernum (March). — These should be potted in well-drained pots filled with loam, leaf-soil, and sand, six bulbs in a 3-inch pot. Plunge in ashes until growth commences. 13. Narcissus Polyanthus Paper-white. 14. N. P. Eirly Roman. — If potted early and brought into the house under favourable conditions, these will flower well in February. 15 Narcissus bicolor Horsfieldi (March). — Treatment as for Crocus, except that they should be potted into 6-inch pots, five in a pot. 16. Romulea Balbocodium (February and March). — Bulbs of this pretty species should be potted eight or nine in a 5 inch pot in autumn, and placed in a pit or frame where they will bloom in March. It is not neces- sary to plunge these. 17- Scilla sibirica. 18. S. bifolia (February and March). — These are two indispensable bulbs for a cold house, and should be treated as for Chionodoxa. 19. Trillium sessile (February and March).— Should be put three bulbs in a 5-inch pot, and placed in a shel- tered place or in a cold frame. They prefer a peaty soil. 20. Muscari botryoides Heavenly Blue (February and March). — Should be treated as for Scilla and Crocus, 5-inch pots, seven or eight in a pot. II. — Mention twenty plants (not bulbous) that would flower in a cold (unheated) greenhouse during early spring (until the end of Apiil), Give a few concise directions as to their culture. 1. Anemone Hepatica triloba. — This should be potted in 5 inch pots in autumn in rich soil and placed in a bed of ashes, plunged to the rim, in f^ome shady place, until in February it can be had in flower, or if given a cold frame can be had in flower at the end of January. 2, Dodecatheon meadia. — Clumps of this should be taken up in November and placed in 6 inch pots in a con post of loam and leat-soil. They should then be taken to a cold frame or house, and will be in flower in March. Keep fairly moist. 3 Prunus Piseardi (February and March). 4, P. davidiana (February). 5. P. sinensis (March and April). These should be potted up in autumn and placed in a bed of ashes plunged to the rim of the pot. Use a good heavy loam with some half-inch bones, and give thorough drainage. Pots according to siz^i of plants will be necessary. After flowering the plants must be again plunged and kept well supplied with water and manure water during summer, and allowed to ripen their growth well. 6 Liurustinus (Viburnum Tinuf) is useful in 6 inch pots. It should be potted in early summer and kept well supplied with water when necessary. A loamy soil is suitable. The dark green foliage is very pleasing. In flower during January, February, and March. 7. Rhododen- dron praecox is also very pretty in March, and, given the protection of a cold house, will be at its best when those outside are spoilt by frost. Plants should be potted in autumn in soms peaty soil and plunged in ashes to the rim. 8 Daphne Cneorum. — Grow in 44-inch pots, in peaty soil, and pot after flowering, or top-dress as may be necessary. It must have the wood thoroughly ripened in autumn to flower in March. 9. I). Mezereum should be treated as the above, and flowers in February and March. 10 Helleborus niger (the Christmas Rose) if lifted and placed in larger pots will bloom in .January and February. A rich soil is necessary. After flowering it may be placed back in the border and given a good mulch of manure. 11. Primula japonica (March and April). — This is propagated by division of the roots or by seed. Seedlings should not be allowed to flower the first year. They should be placed in 6-inch pots in autumn, and kept nearly but not quite dry until growth recommences. They may be plunged in ashes, and are better for the protection of a light to keep o9' the water. When in full growth copious supplies of water are necessary. The soil should be rather heavy, and the pots well drained. 12 P. vulgaris. — The common blue variety should be grown in 5-inch pots in any garden soil and kept moist through the winter. They will flower in February 13. Jasminum nudiflorum is worth growing in pots for January and February. Use any garden soil, and 6-inch pots. Prone hard back after flowering. 14. Aubrietia Moerheimi. — Cuttings of this inserted in spring as soon as obtainable, and potted on when rooted into 3-inch pots, three in a pot, make a, pretty mass in February, March, and April. 15. Dicentra spectabilis potted in autumn, and given a cold frame through the winter, will flower in March and April in any garden soil. Six-inch pots are best. Keep moist. 16. Tussilago fragrans (January and February) should be grown on account of its scent. Ordinary soil will do, and pot up in autumn into 6-iuch pots. 17. Saxifraga cordi- folia Brilliant. — Clumps of this should be potted into 6-inch or 7-inch pots in autumn, and well watered. They will succeed in good garden soil, and should be placed in a sunny position. They will throw up rich purple flowers in Februarj', March, and April. 18. Shortia galacifolia is very pretty when grown in large, shallow pans in rough fibrous peat and loam. Plant in early spring after flowering, and grow during summer in a cool, partially shaded position. (March and April.) 19. Iris stylosa is propagated by divi- sion of the root, unlike the bulbous kinds. Grow in 5-inch pots. Plants should be potted 16 THE GARDEN. [January G, 1906. up after flowering. They commeDce to bloom in December, and continue until February. They must have good drainage, and be kept moderately moist while flowering. 20. Kunkia subcordata (March, and April) should be grown in rich soil and rather large pots. Place in the pots in autumn. Ill, — To keep a greenhouse bright from September to March (average temperature 50° to 55° Fahrenheit), which twelve kinds of plants would you grow ? Give just the important points in connexion with the culture of each. 1. Begonias. — Gloire de Lorraine and its varie- ties, Julius, Mrs. Heal, Gloire de Sceaux, &c. Cuttings of these should be struck from March to May in a warm, moist pit. The cuttings should be taken from the base of the previous year's plants that have been rested and started again. They should be grown in an intermediate tempera- ture. Soil for the cuttings should be light. The plants should be potted in a compost of peat, loam, and leaf-soil, with a good sprinkling of sharp sand. When potting in the larger pots (6inch and 7-inoh) rougher soil is better. After repotting they must be kept well syringed, but a6ford very little water until the roots get well hold of the fresh soil. Begonia socotrana and other tuberous or bulbous Bi>gonias should be started in a warm house in September. They may be increased by division of the bulbils and by cuttings. They should be freely potted on until they reach their flowering pots, viz., 6-inch and 7-inch. Give them a warm house and all the light available. B. manicata and B. metallica should be grown as large specimens in 9-inch or 10 inch pots. Temperature as for Gloire de Lor- raine ; soil, peat, loam, and leaf-soil in equal parts, and plenty of sand. B. ascotensis and B fuohsioides may be grown into good specimens outdoors, and taken in in September in flower. B Gloire de Lorraine and Julius flower in Octo- ber, November, and December ; Winter Cheer, John Heal, socotrana, and Gloire de Sceaux in December, January, and February. 2. Cyclamens. — Seed of the Persian Cyclamen should be sown in October in light sandy soil in pans in a temperature of about 55°. When the seedlings are up, keep them as near the glass as possible, and prick off early in the new year into small pots. As they root through, pot on in soil consisting of peat, leaf, one-half ; good fibrous loam, one-half, with sand, giving ample drainage. They will flower in 4J-inch and 6-inch pots. The plants should be placed in a frame during the summer, shading from strong sun and giving plenty of air. Syringe freely when bright, and close up in the afternoon. Bulbs grown on a second year should be rested after flowering, and then grown on after reducing soil and potting as for seedlings. October to March. 3. Cinerarias (Senecio). — Seed of these should be sown in March or April on a hot-bed, and as soon as the seedlings are up remove to a cooler place. Prick ofi^ into boxes, and, later, pot on as required in leaf, loam, manure, and sand. Soot water is a very useful manure for these. Cine- raria etellata will flower from January to April ; C. cruenta varieties from January to March in 6 inch and 7-inch pots. 4 Eupatoriums. — E. odoratum, E. micran- thum (syn. E. weinmannianum), flower October to December ; E. riparium, January ; vernale, February ; E. probum, March. Cuttings should be struck inspriogonaraild hot-bed in sandy soil, and may be grown on to flower in 6-inch or 7-inch pots. Plant out and lift in September, potting firmly into good soil and giving a good soaking before lifting {day previous), and also after potting. Copious supplies of water will prevent red spider attacking the foliage, which is the worst enemy. Pinch plants to induce bushy growth. 5. Zonal Pelargoniums. — Cuttings of these should be rooted in February and March, and grown on in rich, light soil, and potted firmly. In July, when plants are well established in their flowering pots, place outside in a sunny place, and plunge in ashes to the rim, and keep carefully -watered. Shoots should be pinched to make bushy plants, and flowers should be picked out until within six or seven weeks of the time they are wanted. Sweet-scented varieties and species of Pelargoniums, such as P. quercifolium, P. cetriodorum, and varieties such as Duchess of Devonshire, Lady Mary Fox, and Stirubland Rose should be grown into large specimen plants. They will succeed in the same soil as P. zonale, but will require pots 8 inches to 10 inches, and careful staking. Stand on ashes until September. 6. Hyacinths. Rjraan and Italian, and the large-flowered ones are all necessary. They should be potted in August and September for succession, Roman and Icalian into 5inch pots, four in each, and the large ones into the same size, singly, or three in a 6 inch pot. The soil to be loam, leaf, decayed manure, and sand. Plunge in ashes until well rooted, and when removed keep shaded for a week. They can be flowered well in a temperature of 55° Fahr. , but Roman Hyacinths can bear forcing if necessary. January to March, 7. Narcissus. Roman and Paper-white Poly- antha. Princess, Horsfieldi, Empress, Telamonius plenus, and many others are indispensable, and should be potted five into a 6-inch pot, and be given the same treatment as for Hyacinths. January-March. 8. Primulas. Stellata, sinensis fl.-pl. , sinensis Duchess variety, Fern leaf variety, &c., P. kewensis x,and P. floribunda, P. verticillata. P. kewensis and sinensis fl.-pl. should be pro- pagated by division of the plant. They should be grown in an intermediate temperature (55° Fahr.) in rich soil, with plenty of lime rubble. They should have a light pit or house, and have plenty of air admitted when possible. January to March. Primula sinensis varieties. — Seed should be sown in March in a warm pit in light rich soil, prick off as soon as possible ; grow on until they are in 6-inoh pots, when they should have same treatment as Cyclamen. P. verticillata and P. floribunda seed should be sown in April and pricked off three in each pot (3-inch) in rich, light soil, with lime rubble. Pot on into 5-inch pots, in which they are to flower. They should be carefully watered, and shaded from strong sunshine. November to January. 9. Salvias will flower in the following order: Azurea grandiflora (Pitcheri), September; splendens, October and November ; rutilans, December; Heeri, January. Salvias should be grown from cuttings taken in spring (March and April) and placed in a warm frame or pit. Pot on as soon as rooted, and do not let them become pot-bound until they are in their flowering pots, which should be 8 inch to 10-inch pots. Soil two- thirds good loam and one-third manure from Mushroom beds. Give good drainage and keep pinched to make bushy plants. Feed liberally when in large pots full of roots. From July to September they should be placed on ashes, and sprayed over after sunny days to keep down red spider, which is their worst enemy. 10. Chrysanthemums. — These should be grown as bush or specimen plants, or to have three or four large flowers. The bush plants will include the early-flowering varieties. Cuttings should be struck from November to February in ' well drained pots of sandy soil. Early flowering varieties should be in 6 inch or 7-inoh pots to flower. For those to bloom later and for large blooms 10-inch pots are best. Care must be taken to stop the different varieties at the proper time. For bush plants continue to take out the tips of the shoots until the end of June. Soil good, heavy loam, two-thirds leaf-soil, and manure one- third, with bone-meal and Thompson's manure, 6 inch potful to a barrowful of soil. The plants should be placed outside from the end of April to the end of September. After the final potting they should be tied to wires and properly staked up. Chrysanthemum fruteeceus (Marguerite) cuttings can be put in at almost any lime, and will always come useful. Cuttings struck in February will flower from September to December. They should be kept pinched and free from the leaf miner or maggot. Chrysanthemums can be had from September to Christmas. 11. Prunuses. — P. cerasifera, P. Pissardi, P. sinensis, ?. triloba, and P. davidiana can be gently forced so as to come into flower from January to March. They should be grown in rather heavy loam, with which has been mixed some half-inch bones. Daring summer the pots should be plunged in ashes and kept moist. Cire must be taken to get the wood well ripened in autumn. Any repotting necessary should be done when the foliage is off and before starting them into growth. 12. Winter-flowering Carnations. — Cuttings of these should be inserted in January in a warm house, where they will root rapidly in sharp sandy soil. They should be potted on as soon as struck, and gradually hardened off. Grow as strongly as possible, and keep near the glass. Daring summer they should be placed on ashes in a cold frame and kept well syringed and free from insects. They should flower in 6-inch or 7inch pots. Soil, good (not too heavy) loam, leaf-soil, rotten manure, and plenty of sand. Care should be taken to keep them well staked. IV. — Which do you consider to be the twelve best green- house climbers (average winter temperature of the house 50° to 55°), free and continuous flowering being the first consideration. 1, Begonia coccinea ; 2, Bougainvillea glabra ; 3, Clianthus puniceue ; 4, Fuchsia General Roberts ; 5, Cestrum elegans ; 6, C. aurantiacum ; 7, Pleroma macrantha ; 8, Streptoeolen Jamesoni ; 9, Hibbertia dentata ; 10, Jasminum grandi- florum ; 11, Kennedya prostrata ; 12, Lapageria blba. v.— Give a selection of berried plants suitable for the greenhouse (temperature as above), with very short cultural notes. Solanum capsicastrum and S. Wetherall's hybrid Chili capsicum. Seed should be sown in spring on a hot-bed, and as soon as fit pricked off. Pot into 4-inch pots, and when rooted into these harden off and then plant outside on rich ground. In September, a week before lifting, cut round within a few inches of the plant with spade. When lifted thoroughly soak, keep in close frame until root action commences, when gradually admit air, and in October remove to a dry and warm position near the glass in a cool green- house. Rivina humilis seed should be sown in spring if necessary, but usually plenty of seeds come up from under where the old plants have been standing. These should be grown on in a warm house, and allowed to bear their pretty berries in 6-inch pots. Keep clear of red spider and feed liberally when fruit is set. The Red Currant Tomato is a useful plant for decoration. Grow like the ordinary Tomato, and stake so that the berrieshang gracefully. Pernettya mucronata, Skimmia japonioa, Cotoneaster microphylla, and Sambucus racemosa are all hardy plants, but some grown in pots are very useful to bring into the greenhouse when flowers are scarce. Care must be taken to have both sexes of Skimmia japonica. VI.— Give the best six Roses for culture in a greenhouse (temperature as above). State how they should be pruned. Mar^chal Niel, Lamarque, Climbing Captain Christy, Climbing Niphetos, Climbing Devoniensis, and Fortune's Yellow. The first three should be pruned as soon as possible after flowering (about the end of May). The shoots that have flowered should be cut back dote to the old wood, and superfluous shoots removed altogether ; being strong growers they will soon make fresh shoots. Of the latter the weaker should be removed, taking care to get the wood well ripened, and not to have the foliage thick enough to make a dense shade. The second three are weaker growing sorts, and will require to have some of the wood laid in. As very hard pruning is not beneficial to these a larger number of less vigorous shoots will be required ; straggling shoots and bsidly placed ones should be removed, and, of course, too many shoots must not be allowed to remain. L. Lavender. WaMiam Manor Gardens, Twyford, Berks. .■,pi)ldMh'}ll iu JHr. l.AiKUriK. January hlh, igob. T// f "\ V, ;- Keanis. Pn'nfirs.Lfndon Ji U NIGELLA MISS JEKYLL. GARDEN. -y£S'- No. 1782.- Vol. LXIX. January 13, 1906. HARDY WINTER GARDENS. WHEN Bacon wrote his memor- able essay on gardens, and regretted that fine garden- ing was so much more rare than good architecture, it -was, without doubt, to open-air gardening that his allusions were made. A well-planted garden is interesting and cheerful at all times and seasons, but winter is, after all, the true test and touchstone of the gardener's art. More especially is this true in the case of town parks and open spaces wherein a desert of bare earth but too often succeeds the flowers of summer. In spring and autumn we have greenery and the brightest of flower-colour everywhere, but just "now is the winter of our discontent," when fresh leafage or jewel-like glints of colour here and there are as precious as is the sunshine itself •of these wintry days. After all, there are many plants in our gardens which will pass through our worst winters unscathed, and even were we confined to our native shrubs alone, we have Hollies and Ivies of kinds many and varied, and a judicious use of these, unaided by exotics, would at least give an air of cheerfulness to the beds and borders which are, alas ! too often left desolate and tenantless from November until February. As a fact, we have hardy plants by the hundred with which to bridge over that period of desolation which begins with the fading of the Chrysanthemum and only leaves us when the " golden Crocus crowns the green." Outdoor gardening, in a word, is like fine sculpture. We appreciate it only after having passed through the " valley of humiliation " of art. So also must the gardener struggle through the flashy triumphs of hothouses and stoke-holes, ere the noble simplicity and ever-growing beauty of open-air gardening is revealed to him. Given a deep rich soil, well drained, of course, and its potentialities are as infinite as clay in the modeller's hands. It is the canvas on which may be painted a living picture of ever-changing beautiful things. We must have evergreen shrubs for groups on the grass and drapery for tree trunks or bare walls. In smoky ■districts or near towns Conifers of all kinds are perfectly useless, and one must mainly employ glossy-leaved Hollies, Ivies, Aucubas, Euonymuses, and perhaps Rhododendrons in bold groups. The large-leaved golden Ivy is especially warm and bright in tone, and should be largely employed in suitable posi- tions on walls or pillars, where its glowing colour may remind one of " sunshine in a shady place." Beside it for contrast the Coral Thorn or Pyracantha may be planted for the sake of its winter harvest of bright red fruit, as recommended by Parkinson years ago. So also the oval-leaved Garrya may be employed, since even now its soft grey tassels dangle in the breeze, reminding one of the Willow catkins or Palms of early spring. The golden .Japanese or winter Jasmine is also a most valuable shrub, and an Ivied wall bespangled with its golden stars is now a pretty sight. Then for variety we must have the Japan Allspice, the waxen buds and bells of which already glisten on its ash-grey shoots and exhale a perfume beyond description. The Strawberry Tree (Arbutus) also has every shoot tipped with clusters of pale waxy bells and the round red fruits glisten warmly from among the last year's leaves. A few rich brown or vivid golden Wallflowers are peeping here and there, and the smaller blue Periwinkle is in flower, and by looking closely one may perceive the points of the Snowdrop and the broader tips of Daffodil leaves peering in groups amoQg its trailing stems. On sunny mornings you may catch the breath of Violets and the magic perfume of dying Strawberry leaves, and the scent of Rose- mary and the aromatic odour of Box and of golden Thyme is abroad. During the short dark days, indeed, every floweret, every fragrant green leaf is appreciated at its true value, and at no other time of the year are the results of good gardening so acceptable as at the present season, and after all there is no reason why our parks and gardens should not be cheerful and interesting, even if not absolutely showy, during winter. We can have columns of the golden Ivy before men- tioned ; the crimson shoots of the Dogwood may gleam here and there near to water margins in contrast with the slender wands of the golden Osier. We can have clumps or beds of the Christmas Roses, of which there are several noble varieties, each and all of them finer in leafage and in blossoming than is the common wild type. Of Yuccas, which are really great evergreen Lilies of noble appearance at all seasons, we have several species all good, and all of which may be well grown in London gardens if once well planted in beds of rich, good, well-drained soil. RIVIERA NOTES. The fine weather of the month of December has enabled the late shoots of the Dalsy Tree (Montanoa bipinnatifida) to complete their growth and repair the ravages of last year's frost. There is no stately winter- flowering plant of higher excellence than this when grown in a fairly sheltered garden, and the finest specimens, which are to be seen at Bordighera, surpass considerably the beauty of the Tree Dahlia (D. imperialis). The fact also of its blooming in December— January makes it the more valuable. So big and quickly growing a plant needs shelter from wind, of course ; but any garden where the Heliotrope keeps in good condition during the winter will suit this very handsome shrub. If cut down to the ground by an extra severe frost it usually sends up strong growths again in spring. Long ago this plant was used as a foliage plant in " sub- tropical gardening," but all who have seen it in full flower will agree that its highest excellence is reached when in bloom. This season the New Hybrid Acacia, between A. deal- bata and A. baileyana, is flowering. Its foliage is even prettier and more glaucous than A. dealbata, resembling in that point A. baileyana, as does its growth, which is rather more slender than A. dealbata ; but the sprays of flower are very similar to the jjopular A. dealbata, and of a pretty and pale primrose shade. Its season of flower is at least a fortnight earlier than A. dealbata, so it should be a very desirable plant for all Riviera gardens. Curiously enough, it appears to grow freely in all soils, while both its parents refuse to exist where there is much lime in the soil— on the whole a decided acquisition for our winter gardens. This season for the first time I have seen Sweet Peas in good flower in December — the happy result of letting the plants sow themselves, and so starting as soon as the rains arrive — a delightfully simple plan when it succeeds, but which must necessarily depend on the weather. Still it is a thing to chronicle, as the young plants transplant so readily if they do come up in this kind manner. It is only the two early varieties, Mont Blanc and Earliest of All, that are so precocious and valuable. The winter-flower- ing form of the German Ieis is now in great beauty, and I do not know why it is not made more of. 18 TSE GARDEN. [Januaky 13, 1906. With me it has never failed to bloom more or less when left alone, but to ensure a really good autumn-winter bloom it must be pulled to pieces and replanted in May ; perhaps that is the reason it is not more commonly grown. With Sweet Peas, Irises, good Roses, and fair Carnations in sufficient quantity in the garden, it is quite uncanny to find in com- bination (when much shade and moisture can be found) both Snowdrops, Hepaticas, and Crocuses in flower already, while Anemones and Violets become daily more abundant. When to these hardy plants the host of tender-flowering wall creepers is added, the beauty of the Riviera gardens this last day of the old year is a thing to gladden the gardener's heart, and make him forget that winter yet may do some damage after all. "Nothing venture, nothing have" is a good old adage, which was well exemplified the other day when I saw Poinsettias in fair bloom on a sunny terrace near the sea. Who could have believed that so tender a shrub should have survived last winter's frost, and still have had sunshine and warmth enough to bloom again this December 1 Surely an example to encourage the old as well as the new gardener on these shores. Tritoma pkimdlina is flowering freely now ; it is later than usual, as it suffered severely last winter. A really handsome group of this winter-flowering Tritoma is an acquisition of -some importance, as the flowering Aloes, which so closely resemble it, do not flower until February. The colour is particularly clear and pleasing, and the spikes of flower last long in beauty. Unlike its congeners the Aloes, it prefers the shade, which is another point in its favour, as shade- loving, winter-flowering plants are rare. I have only succeeded m growing this plant by placing it in the shade, as the summer-heat seems to paralyse its growth, and when the autumn rains come the root rots instead of growing. The same cause does damage to the zonal Pelargoniums also, and I find now it is best to grow a certain quantity in pots or tubs, placed all summer in deep shade and kept watered and the flower - buds pinched. These plants placed in the sun in October give plenty of flower and foliage at once, while those exposed to the sun all the summer take a long time to recover, and are little or no use for the winter garden, though, of course, they are gorgeous enough in May. JVice. Edward H. Wood all. whose early education was cocfioed to the village school and private reading, but who, by persistent application to work and study, carved out for him- eelf a conspicuous position. The Royal Horti- cultural Society has turned out some fine men from historic old Chiswick, and among them Burbidge will for ever occupy a very high position. What a stalwart champion — by voice and pen — he was of the rights of gardeners ; and, if I may be allowed to remark in this connexion, so jealous was he of the gardener occupying his rightful domain that he had little or no sympathy with the new woman-gardener movement. He was also connected with The Garden after leaving Kew. It was on leaving the staff of The Garden that he accepted a commission from Messrs. Veiteh to collect and travel for them in Borneo, Sulu Islands, and elsewhere in the East Indian Archipelago in 1877-78, and to-day our gardens are enriched by his many rare and beautiful "finds." The recent obituary notice tells of his later work. Those of his private friends — and they were many — saw exemplified in him the saying of the wise man of old : " A faithful friend is a strong defence, and he that has found such an one has found a treasure." Qno. inspectors for the Board of Agriculture, has been appointed assistant-director of the Royal Gardens, Kew. Mr. Brooke-Hunt takes a great interest in horticultural education in this country. Daring the past year a Horticultural Education Associa- tion haR been formed, chiefly owing to the efforts of Mr. Brooke-Hunt. Weather at Shendish, Herts, during l905. — Looking through the register I find there have been 214 fine days during the year which has just closed, and 151 days on which rain has fallen. March, November, and June were the wettest months with 3 84 inches, 3 42 inches, and 3 24 inchesof rain respectively, whileFebrnary and Dtfcemher had the least with 1 01 inches and 1 08 inches respectively. The total rainfall for the whole year was 26. 71 inches, as compared with 26 45 inches in 1904, which had 162 days with rain, February being the wettest in that year and June the driest. — George Burrows, Head Oardentr to A. H. Longman, Esq. Rainfall in 1905— The following was recorded at The Gardens, Hampton Manor, Hampton-in-Arden : PRIZES OPEN TO ALL. be THE LATE MR. F. W. BURBIDGE, M.A., V.M.H. Many have read with extreme regret of the death of Mr. Burbidge, whom the writer had probably known as long as anyone in the horticultural world. I knew him when he entered as a Chiswick student in 1868, and his is a worthy example to the rising geteration of young gardeners upon whom the future of horticulture so largely depends. He popseesed indomitable pluck, perseverance, and self-confidence (by no means obtrusively so), which carried him far. The late Colonel R. Trevor Clarke, that fine and kindly-hearted old botanist-gardener, good judge of character, and member of the Royal Horticultural Society's Council in those early days often visited the old garden, and upon one occasion, when the then students were assembled together there, he picked out Burbidge as I he one that would be heard of in the horticultural world. Here was a young man WALL GAEDENS. A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered fw the best answers to the following qiuestions : 1. Dascribe briefly how a wall should constructed for wall plants. 2. Describe the way the plants should be inserted in both rough stone and brick walls. 3. Describe the sowing of the seed in the wall. Is it better to plant seedlings or to sow seed, and when is the best time both to plant and sow ? 4. Name the most beautiful spring, summer, and autumn-flowering plants for sunny walls. 5. Name the most suitable plants for a shady wall and those that give the best effect in winter. 6. Describe the way to treat an old mossy wall which it is wished to sow or plant. 7. How should the plants be treated at all seasons ? The answers must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked " Competition," addressed to " The Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than January 31. Both amateur and professional gardeners may compete. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS , and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors. Month. Total depth. Greatest fall in '2U hours. Number 0/ days uith 0 1 or more Inches. Depth. Date. recorded. January .. 0-96 . 0 25 8 9 February 0 79 . 0-is . 27 11 March . . . 3 18 . 0-52 11 21 April .. . 1-79 . 0 24 IX 20 . May 0 50 . 0 21 1 5 June .... 218 . 0 31 18 16 July 2 '27 . 0 94 1 11 August . . 4 22 . 0 65 . 26 22 September 1-48 0 29 7 11 October . . 103 . 0 20 .. 30 1* Nuvember 2-33 . 0 68 11 17 December 101 022 1 11 Total.. 21-73 168 The greatest during twenty-four hours was on July 1, 0 94; and the highest sunheat, July 11 and 25, 130" ; highest in shade, June 22, 80" ; and lowest, January 20, 14°. — Neil Sinclair. At Cole Orton Hall, Ashby -de- la - Zouch, Leicestershire, 540 feet above sea level, 1905 : Month. Total depth. Oreat'Sl tall in 2 It hours. days with 01 or more Inches. Depth. Date. recorded. January . . 1 38 0 29 9 13 February 0 74 016 26 16 March .2 92 0-36 . 10, 28 22 April ..192 0-33 6 21 May .. 0-49 0 22 1 6 June ..2 86 132 . 30 16 July ..131 . 0 95 . 26 8 August .. 3-30 0 44 . 3, 17 18 September 2'07 074 .. 28 10 October ..143 . 0-63 4 14 November 2 88 0 69 10 20 December 0-98 . 0 31 28 16 Total . . 22 27 179 -H Wilson. MP. W. Duncan Tucker, the well- NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING January 18. — Gardeners' EVENTS. Royal Benevolent Institution's Annual General Meeting and Election of Pensioners. Annual Supper at Simpson's, 101, Strand, 6 p.m., Mr. George Monro in the chair. January 23 —Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition and Meeting. January 24. — Croydon Gardeners' Society's Annual Dinner. New assistant -dipectop of the Royal Gardens, Kew.— We understand that Mr. A. E. Brooke-Hunt, one of His Majesty's known horticultural builder, recently gave a dinner and smoking concert to his staff and workmen to celebrate the coming of age of his eldest son, Mr. Duncan Tucker, who on this occasion was presented with a gold watch and chain subscribed for by the emploji^a. The various speeches and expressions of goodwill testified to the friendly feeling that exists between employer and employed. Mr. Duncan Tucker is now admitted to the firm, which will be registered as a limited liability company. Cyclamen Low's Salmon.-;-I notice with interest your recent remarks with reference to the new coloured Cyclamen Low's Salmon. I remember some years ago we grew a very pretty salmon-coloured variety, but this had puny flowers and tiny growth. The variety with the giganteum habit must be an acquisition indeed, and I shall obtain some seed of it at an early date. I consider the salmon coloured the finest of all shades in flowers, besides being the most uncommon. — A. F. Gale, LeicenUr. January 13, 19C6.] THE GARDEN. 19 Hopticultupal Education Asso- ciation.— A meeting of the above association will ba held at the Horticultural Ulub-room, Hotel Windsor, Victoria Street, Westminster, on the 28 '.h inst,, at 2 p.m., for the election of officers and transaction of other business. — A. E. Brooke Hunt. The Gardeners' Royal Benevo- lent Institution. — The annual friendly supper of friends of this institution will take place, after the annual general meetine, on Thurs- diy, the ISth inst., at Simpson's, 101, Strand, Lond m. The chair will be taken at 6 p.m. by George Monro, Esq., V.M.H. (member of com- mittee).— Geokge J. Ingram, Secretary. Sutton and Sons' centenary.— The numerous friends and customers throughout the world of Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading, the famous seed merchants, will be interested to hear that they have been established at Reading 100 yeirs. In their New Year's letter to their clients, Messrs. Sutton write: "It is with feeling? of thankfulness we record the fact that the business founded in 180G by the late John Sutlou, grandfather and great-grandfather of the present partners, not only still remains the exclu- Eiire property of members of the same family, but continues under their direct personal super- intendence. Such continuity of management and direction by one family is almost unique, and is probably the secret of the steady and persistent growth of the many departments. In 1806 the seed trade as a distinct industry did not exist, and illustrated and priced seed catalogues were unknown. The high-class vegetables and flowers of 1906 have all been developed since 1806 as the re;uU of skilful selection and hybridisation." Gardening' and tiie Carneg^ie Dunfermline Trust.— Among the objects which are included in the operations of the Cirnegie Dunfermline Trust is, as is generally well known, the encouragement of horticulture, and several matters in connexion with this came b if ore a meeting of the trustees held in Dunfermline on the 28 bh ult. It was reported thit the lectures on horticulture given during November and December by Mr. Berry, of the Eiinburgh and East of Scotland College of Agriculture, had been well attended. Considera- tion is being given to a suggestion that further lectures at other seasons should be given by Mr. Bsrry. The Dunfermline Horticultural Society, which receives generous assistance from the trustees, has made a formal acknowledgment of the assistance rendered to horticulture by the support it receives from the Carnegie Dunferm- line Trust. It may also be mentioned that a large rock garden has been constructed in Pittencrieff Park by the trustees. The work has b^en carried out in a skilful way by Messrs. James Bickhouae and Son, Limited, York. It presents the appearance of a rocky glen in the Highlands. The regular work in connexion with the Pittencrieff Park is being ably cirried on under the charge of Mr. Dunagan, the superintendent. East Ang'lian Horticultural Club. — There was a large attendance of mem- bers at the recent annual meeting, held in the Shirehall Hotel, Norwich. After the usual pre- liminaries the secretary, Mr. W. L. Wallis, presented the annual report, which showed that during the year the club had lost four members by death. Apart from these sad events the career of the club for 1905 had been one of pros- perity. The membership started at 293, and finished with 318, and the financial side showed a balance in hand of £120 193. 9J. , as against £116 91. 101. of 1904. The monthly exhibitions had been a great success. The thanks are accorded to the donors of prizsa, special mention being given to Messrs. Diniels Brothers, Limited, Norwich ; Hobbies, Limited, Dereham ; Benton and Stone, Birmingham ; J. and H. Girling, Norwich ; and J. F. Betts, Esq., Norwich. Mention was also made of the valuable work of Mr. Edward Peake in connexion with the botanical section. The report was unanimously adopted, and will be set out in detail in the 1905 schedule. There were a few minor alterations to the rules, &c. A capital educational syllabus of lectures, essays, &e. , has been arranged for the 1906 session. Besides the ordinary business there was a capital array offlowers, fruits, and vegetables. New director of the Royal Gar- dens, Kew.— The new director, Lieut.-Col. D. Prain, M.B. , I.M.S., is an ardent botanist and horticulturist. He succeeded Sir George King in 1898 as superintendent of the Calcutta Botanic Gardens and of the Cinchona plantations and factories in Sikkim, and also as director of the botanical survey of India. His publications on the botany of India are numerous and critical. Lieut. -Colonel Praia's published works are as follow: " Pedicularis," Ann. Calc. E.G., III., Part 1; " Gjmphoatemma," Ann. Calo. B.G., III., Part 2; "Second Century of New and Rare Indian Plants," by King, Duthie, and Prain, Ann. Calc. B.G., IX., Part 1; "Dal- bergia," Ann. Calc. E.G., X , Part 1 ; " Sketch LIEDT.-COLOKEL DAVID PR.UX, M.B., I M.S. {The new director ff the Royil Garden^, Kew.) of the Lifd oT Fraaci< Hamilton" (Buchanan), Ann. Calc. E.G. , X , Part 2 ; " L')gurainos;e," in " Kin j's Materials" ; "Bengal Plants," 2 vols., 8vo. ; "Memoirs and Memoranda," "Botanical Notes and Papers," 2 vols. , containing forty-six papers from various periodicals ; various papers in " Records of the EDtanical Survey of India" ; and " Wheat and Mustard," in " Bulletins of the Department of Land Records and Agriculture, Bengal." Lachenalias. — These popular plants are often grown in pots and pans, but to my mind they are equally as pretty, if not prettier, in hanging baskets. August is about the most suit- able time for making them up. First of all line the basket with moss. Use a compost of two parts loam and one of leaf-mould, adding a little cow manure and sharp sand. Place the bulbs about 2 inches to 3 inches apart round the sides as the basket is filled with soil. Water well when finished, and suspend the basket from the roof of a cool house. If fed liberally with manure they can remain in the same basket two years. A very good basket of L. pendula is flowering in the greenhouse at Kew. — A. 0. Commelina ccelestis.- 1 would like to give a word of praise to this lovely half-hardy perennial plant. The flowers are of a beautiful blue ; there is also a white variety. When seed lists are being made up, and uncommon plants are wanted, I would say order seed of this. Seed sown the end of May will flower the same year ; the seedlings like a light soil. After flowering, the tubers must be taken up and stored like Dahlias, except in very favoured places where the soil is dry. Then they can be left in the ground if the crowns are covered over with ashes. By all means protect or save the tubers, for the flowers from the tubers are even better than from seed. — W. A. Smart, Crowcombe, Taunton, Somerset. Stock Beauty of Nice.— This variety introduced a year or two ago is quite one of the best for winter flowering. It is an excellent variety for pot cultivation for the cool greenhouse or conservatory during the dull days of winter, and should also prove of great value for cutting. It is sweetly scented, the colour a pleasing shade of pale pink. The plants flowering in the green- house at Kew are very effective. The seed was sown the beginning of September, the plants com- mencing to flower in about ten weeks from the date of sowing. The percentage of singles is very small. The plants have been grown in a cool pit close to the glass. It lasts in flower for a con- siderable time. — A. 0. Yellow - flowered Aimee Vibert Rose. — The Journal des Roses recently gave a coloured plate of this Rose, obtained by M. P. Perny, a distinguished amateur, at Nice. This Rose has now been some six or eight years under observation, and M. Perny has decided to place it in commerce. No other name can be given to it than that of the yellow-flowered Aimee Vibert, for the growth, wood, foliage, and flowering are exactly the same as those of Aim^e Vibert. The only distinction between the two plants is in the colour of the flowers. The old Aim^e Vibert is white, while the new one is salmon-yellow. It is a Rose which many will wish to have. Escallonia floribunda— To see this Escallonia at its best in England one has to visit the favoured districts of Ddvon and Cornwall. By some authorities this and E. montevidensis are kept distinct, but it seems more than probable that, even if they differ slightly, this may be accounted for by geographical variation. At all events, it is one of the tenderest of the Eical- lonias, and, at the same time, when in good con- dition one of the finest. Standing in the open ground it forms a large bush usually from 6 feet to 10 feet in height. The flowers, which are borne in large terminal corymbs, are pure white, and so numerous as to make a fine display, the effectiveness of which is heightened by the con- trast with the bright green leaves. In the London district it may be treated as a wall plant with, as a rule, fairly satisfactory results. In many parts of Ireland it does particularly well, a humid atmosphere being very favourable to its develop- ment.—T. The giant variegated Tobacco (Nicotiana tomentosa variegata). — One does not often meet with this beautiful variegated form. It is generally used for bold sub-tropical bedding. The plants bsing grown on for this work are very useful as foliage plants for the greenhouse in winter. Propagation is by cuttings. When the plants become leggy remove several inches of the top and insert as a cutting. From the axils of the leaves young growths will push. If these are taken off when of suflScient length a stock of plants can soon be obtained. Inserted in light soil in a close propagating frame they will soon root. It is also known under the name of N. colossea variegata. — A. 0. 20 The gakIdeN. [Januaby 13, 19C6. NOTES ON HARDY PLANTS. AN EVENING PRIMROSE. CEnOTHEEA biennis llRANDIFLOEA (SYN. lamaeckiana). IF the true definition of a weed is a plant in the wrong place, this is one of my weeds, coming up in all parts of the garden, and in especial abundance where any leaf -soil has been applied. I generally sow one or two plants in suitable positions so that they do not have to be transplanted, as they are tap-rooted plants, and unless moved successfully with a large ball of earth do not move well. One such plant has this year been worthy of notice, being a real giant, even among its tall relatives. It formed a large shrub, some 7 feet high and 4 feet to 5 feet in diameter. It was in bloom the whole of July and August, and on summer evenings was a gr.and sight, some seventy or more blossoms often opening between seven and eight. As no bloom lasts more than a day it occurred to me that it would be interesting to calculate the amount of seed produced by this plant, which little more than a year before must have been simply a tiny seed. It was not such a labour as it seemed to arrive at a relative approximation. The number of seed vessels, not counting the small imperfect ones at the ends of the spikes, was about 1,810. I counted the number of seeds in four fairly- representative pods and arrived at an average of 280 seeds to the pod, cot counting the pale-looking abortive seeds amongst the brown ones. This worked out to 506,800 seeds for the plant at the very lowest, the real number, probably, being some thousands in excess of this. This increase from one small seed in about fifteen months must surely be extraordinary, though, doubtless, a well-grown Foxglove or Antirrhinum would be able to give a good account of itself. The Evening Primrose likes a damp soil, rich and deep, this particular specimen growing on a very heavy clay. The stem at the level of the ground had a circumference of 8 inches. Alger Petts. THE MOUNTAIN AVENS. The Dryas, or Mountain Avens — a small genus — are unaasuming plants of dwarf, trailiag growth, but excellent in the rock garden or on steep slopes and banks that are sometimes difficult to clothe. It is, therefore, a matter of some surprise that these charmiog little plants should be so rarely seen in the average well-kept garden, and to my mind the only reasonable explanation is that they are not so widely known as they deserve to be. D. octopetala is very rarely met with in a wild state. I saw, however, a few years ago some plants in an old Scottish garden which were said 10 have been collected in Sutherland. The foliage is of a very dark green, wrinkled, hoary on the under side, about the size of a shelled almond, and borne horizontally upon wiry, prostrate stems. The flowers are pure white, and, as suggested by the name, are eight-petalled. D. lanata clotely resembles the foregoing, but the leaves are clothed with a greyish tomentum, hence lanata or "woolly." The plant is Tjrolese. D. Drummondii bears flowers of a bright yellow, and forms a charming companion to the white-flowered species. D. integrifolia is more compact than the others, and makes neat little patches of dark green in midwinter. When it is desired to establish a colony, or even a plant of Dryas, it is not Eutfioient to trowel out a bit of soil and cram the roots into the hole thus made, for it is in starting the plants that the only difficulty arises. The roots are tough and wiry, not very fibrous, and it is necessary, espe- cially in a dry, exposed position, to spread them and bed firmly into gritty soil. If a piece of rough, porous stone be pressed well home over the roots it will be to the advantage of the plant, for a stone does much towards preventing the ingress of scorching heat and the evaporation of moisture from the soil. When it is desired to propagate Dryas the surest method is to place a stone on the trailing branch near its extremity, gently pressing into previously loosened soil. Do this in spring and the shoot will root during summer, and may be severed from the parent plant the following autumn. Heather Bell. MERTENSIA PRIMULOIDES. If there is one colour among flowers that is more keenly sought after than any other, surely that is pure blue, the colour generally associated with the much-loved Gentian. Without a doubt true blue is at once beautiful and rare among flowers, and on that account alone the pretty little Mertensia named above should be grown by all lovers of hardy plants. Quite a miniature in its family, it is a plant to cherish rather than merely to admire, and, therefore, the most favoured spot in the garden is not too good for it. Still, we speak thus of the plant because of its seeming modesty and loveliness, not because it is one of those things that require continual coaxing and nursing. M. primuloides is quite well able to look after itself, as well, in fact, as the taller and coarser members of its family. The height of the whole plant may be measured on one's fingers, and the slightly arched flower-stalks are just long enough to keep the flowers above the leaves, against which they show to advantage. Until the plant has had time to become cheaper and more plentiful it is useless to advise planting in gocd-sized colonies, but undoubtedly it will be necessary to do so before the full value of the rich colour can be estimated. In the meantime the best thing is to get one or two and set about increasing the stock, which is not a difficult matter. Nesion, Cheshire. Heathee Bell. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. J D.EDALACANTHUS PARVUS. [To THE Editor or " The Garden."] SIR, — Dsedalacanthus Wattii is the correct name of the D. parvus men- tioned in The Garden of the 9th ult. (page 36.3), It was discovered by Dr. (now Sir) George Watt, only in seed, and sent to me from India labelled "Crossandra sp." When it flowered it proved to be a new species of Diedalacanthus, and I exhibited it at the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting under the name of Doedalacanthus Wattii. It received a certificate under this name, and was mentioned in the Gardeners' Chronicle. I afterwards sent it to Kew and to Messrs. Veitch under this name, but at Kew it appears by some error to have been re- christened. It is a valuable plant, and, like all other Acan- thaceK, is most easily propagated from cuttings. It has, however, one disagreeable habit — occa- sionally plants will bear very small and incon- spicuous flowers (cleistogamic ?) instead of the fine, large, deep purple ones which it ought to yield. These flowers seed freely, and the seeds germinate at once when sown. This bad habit is shared by Eranthemum cinnabarinum. I have not so far found out any way of counteracting it. R. H. B. YOUNG GARDENERS' OPPOR- TUNITIES. [To THE Editor of "Tub Garden."] Sir, — Do youcg gardeners take full advantage of their opportunities'.' To this question, in the majority of cases, I should answer most emphatically, no 1 Many, no doubt, think that when their daj'swork is ended that they have done enough, so they spend the evening perhaps at some place of amusement ; anything, in fact, rather than devote a short time to study. If one or two evenings a week were set apart for the purpose of education what a great deal of benefit might be derived therefrom. There are many subjects that might be studied with advantage, for instance, botany, geometry, literature, &c., and, indeed, many others, but it is a rare thing to see a young gardener devote much time to studj'. I suppose all young gardeners hope to hold the position of head gardener sooner or later, and surely there can be no better training than scientific study in conjunction with their work. The gardening papers should be diligently perused by all, as, indeed, they are by those who are ambitious and anxious to succeed, but, unfortu- nately, they are overlooked by many. Some bothies possess gocd libraries, which, if they were more often put to use, would be a very material help to the coming generation of head gardeners, and I am sure it would help to raise the status of the profession, for surely too much attention cannot be given to education by j'oung men of the present daj'. Ehtree. 3. Gardner. COOKING POTATOES. [To THE Editor oe " The Garden."] Sir, — "A. D." writes on page 397 to oppose the excellent and common-sense advice, which had been given in a previous issue, that Potatoes should be boiled in their skins. His note seems written, if he will forgive me for saying so, for the sake of sheer contradiction, for not a single one of his many arguments will hold water nearly as well as a poor Potato does when peeled before boiling. And some of his contentions seem curiously upside-down ones. He argues that we should peel old Potatoes because young ones are "invariably scraped hard." That is to say, because our ignorant cooks spoil a vegetable in one stage, therefore we ought to spoil it in all its stages. Young Potatoes ought never to be scraped. They may be rubbed in a cloth to remove the mere outer film, as this leaves an under skin which protects them from the water and is Eoft enough to be edible. When the skin has become too hard to be treated in this way it should be removed after boiling, never before. The dangers and drawbacks to flavour of " fun- goid spores" on the skin, of manure-impregnated skins, and of bitterness in the skin from exposure to light are purely imaginary so far as my ex- perience goes — and I have eaten all sorts and conditions of Potatoes boiled in their ekins ever since I came to years of discretion in these matters. "A. D." asserts that all these evils, if present on the skin, boil through it into the tuber. As a matter of fact, the skin is practi- cally impervious to anything of the kind. On the contrary, if the cook peelx Potatoes with unclean skins, the knife carries the taste into the substance of the tuber, with its naked tissue thus exposed by cutting. But " A. D." is also shocked at the dreadful after-effects of cooking in the skin. Heat is lost, he says, if the cooked Potatoes are skinned before serving. I can only say that they appear on qjy table too hot to cat ; it is merely a matter of quick fingers and a hot dish. And "if sent to table in their colts, how objectionable to have these coats lying about on the consumer's plate ! " Well, if the consumer is really so squeamish, he can always put the skins in his pocket or drop them under the table when no one is looking. A more polite and very usual remedy is to have a tide-plaio for Potatoes January 13, 1906,] THE GARDEN. 21 as for salad. "A. D." adds: "It would be aa reasonable to send Peas coDked in their pods to table as Potatoes in their skins." I fail to see the logic. The two things do not go on all fours. Shelled Peas possess a akin which protects their substance from the water, and they have no need of their pods to effect this. If they were improved by being boiled pods and all, I for one would cook them thus. Finally, "A. D." discards all argument, and boldly begs the whole question by a, downright assertion, so that he can scarcely complain if he is met by a downright denial. "A good Potato," he writes, "will, if properly cooked, be far more presentable at table if peeled first, and can be served up in all its goodness." I will admit this if I may write " which is impossible" after the word "cooked," and " except what has boiled out into the water " after the word " goodness." The kind of perora- tion with which "A. D." concludes, "the assumption that peeled Potatoes when well cooked lose in flavour or nutriment is illusory," is rather more diflScult to deal with. There are scientists of a sort who teach ua that all aensa- tiona, from that of a broken leg to a cold in the head, are merely "illusory," and, of course, my sensation of Potato flavour may be the same, but I cannot follow "A. D." into metaphysics. But I would draw attention to his repetition of "presentable" and "appearance." Here is the queer old British superstition that fruit and vege- tables are firstly to look at, and only secondly to eat. Why not make Potatoes thoroughly "pre- sentable " by boiling them with cochineal and serving them in frilla ? G. H. Englbhbabt. SOLANUM JASMINOIDES. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sib, — The illustration represents Solanura jas- minoides, which was untouched by 1'2° of froat. Barconibe Place, Sussex. E. Grantham. MILDEW ON EOSES. [To THE Editor or " The Garden."] Sir, — I am quite in accord with your editorial note that this subject ia of importance to Rose growers ; at the same time, if you will permit me to Bay 80, with all due deference to my friend Mr. Goodwin, the publication of lists of Roses that may happen to be more or less free from mildew in any particular garden ia not the kind of information that ia required. What the majority of Rose growers want to know in this matter is not what varieties suffer from mildew, or vice, versd, but how to deal effectively with the disease when it comes. My personal opinion (given certain conditions favourable to the disease) is that 90 per cent, of all Hybrid Teas and Hybrid Verpetuals and 50 per cent, of the Teas are liable to mildew, and that the situation of the bed or plant has aa much as anything to do with the immuneness or otherwise of that particular bed or plant. I know it was so in my old garden, where all the soil was alike (being all "made"). A Rose on one side of the garden was affected ; the same kind on the other side was free. In fact, I might say the ahady side (ahady by reason of the near- nesa of trees) nearly always suffered in the autumn, be the seaaon wet or dry, and although I took care to grow on that aide Roses that were less likely to be attacked, such as Ulrich Brunner, Caroline Testout, and all my Teas, the mildew invariably put in an appearance, and nothing I could do in the shape of flowers of sulphur, sulphide of potassium solution, or any other so-called remedy was of any real benefit. I have perused carefully the list of the Hybrid Teas mentioned by Mr. Goodwin and Mr. A. H. Pearson as mildew-proof, and with the exception of Anne Marie Soupert and Lady M. Corry, which I did not then possess, the whole of them suffered more or less in my garden in a situation I admit favourable to the disease. The same remark no doubt applies to your cirrespondent " L. W.-N.," whose garden is situate 700 feet above sea level, in which a bed of Griiss an Teplitz suffers throughout the whole season, namely, that in the situation of the bed (and possibly unhealthy root action) is to be found the cause of the attack, aa my experience of this Rose — and I had some of the first plants that came to this country — ia that it is entirely free from mildew till the very late autumn, when the new wood is affected slightly in a bad season like the last. Enough I think has been said to prove the point I want to make, namely, that a remedy foi the disease will be more useful to rosarians than lists of Roses that are not affected by that disease. We all know what mildew is, and that rapid changes of temperature seem to favour its growth, but few of ua know a remedy, and it any SOLANUM JASMINOIDES ON A SUSSEX HOUSE. (From a photograph kindly sent hy Lady Grantham.) reader of The Garden is in possession of same and will impart his knowledge he will earn the gratitude of a good many beside Herbert E. Moltneux. Branlwood, Piirley. Mrs. Flicker writes from the Dean Close School, Cheltenham ; " I should like to mention that for about seventeen years we have had many W. A. Richardson Roses here, and have never seen either blight or mildew upon them. The soil is strong clay, and budded on the Briar they make enormous growth and flower profusely. Except for some poor pale blooms which occur sometimes in a dull season without sunshine, they are abso- lutely healthy, and give no trouble whatever — but to keep them within bounds. I wish I could grow the Banksian Roses as well ; they are covered with mildew year after year for some reason, and I may have to root them out." THE QUALITY AND FLA\^OUR OF MELONS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Mr. J. Kipling, in The Garden of the 16 th ult., has done good service in drawing attention to a variety of Melon named Lord Darby, possess- ing, as he says, in addition to all the good qualities a Melon should have (which he details), the further crowning quality of " a decided Pine-apple flavour. " Now that Pine-apple growing in England has ceased to be what it was, it will be good news to Pine-apple lovers that they can have the partial enjoyment of this rich and deli- cious fruit by the simple process of growing Lord Derby Melon. The Melon being of the Cucumber family, what puzz es me as an old Melon grower is the mystery as to how the Pine-apple flavour got into the Melon in the first place. Is it a cross between the two, I wonder ? Another strange thing about this remarkable Melon is that, although it has been out for some lime, one scarcely ever sees or hears anything about it, either at exhibitions or among private gardeners. Mr. Kipling having been successful in discover- ing a Melon possessing this wonderful quality, his services ought to be secured by the Rjyal Horti- cultural Society to preside over the deliberations of the fruit CDmmittee during the present year, in the hope that he may discover another variety amongst the many new ones placed annually before that body for recognition (but which they regretfully have to reject) possessing possibly a Peach or it may be a Muscat Grape flavour. An Old Melon Grower. POTATO LEAF-CURL. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — I have read with much interest on page 361 if The Garden " A. H. L.'s " article under the ibove heading. This disease has been prevalent ■n this district thia season, more especially on the grounds of those growers who are in favour of hard-ripened tubers for planting. I have proved beyond doubt that this is a mistake. After several years' observation I have come to the conclusion that the way is to plant almost direct irom the clamp, or, better still, to secure fresh lubers for planting each year, and the result will be satisfactory. Ormeshy, Great Yarmouth. C. Nichols. FLAVOUR OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — In The Garden, November 25, a corre- spondent writes about the flavour of Brussels Sprouts, and say a, "So much depends on the cooking." That is quite true; but did he ever think of the unreasonableness of cooking tender and fresh vegetables the length of time he advo- cates? We eat Lettuce and other greenstuffa uncooked, and for my part 1 confider Cabbage and such like stuff much nicer when boiled not more than five minutes. Three minutes is enough in some cases, but I advise four minutes for a start. Sheffield. H. I. THE FRUIT GARDEN. PLANTING FRUIT TREES. Much-needed Alvicf. A DVICE in planting hardy fruit trees has /\ been repeatedly given, but the / % reiteration is necessary, as mistakes Z__A are continually being made, and the 2^ J^ subsequent correction is a matter of the greatest difficulty. A fallacy has got abroad that equally good results can be had from fruit trees planted without regard to the time-honoured common-sense methods. This must have arisen from the distorted rendering of conclusions or a strange misconception of the facts. Not long since it was gravely asserted at a gardeners' meeting that the care ordinarily advocated and exercised in such work was to much waated time. The mere record of such doctrines n^st have a pernicious effect. There is quite sufficient tendency to carelessness, on the part of beginners especially, without encouraging its extenaion by a misdirected pseudo-scientific advocacy. The facts are simple enough and familiar to all planters of experience. Root injury must affect the growth of a tree, it is only a question of degree. The damage may be so small that only a slight check is perceptible, or it may be so considerable that even though the tree 22 THE GAKDEN. [January 13, 1906. survives, the effect is visible in stunted growth for years. In the extreme, before new roots can be produced the tree is exhausted and death ensues. When dealing with plants under glass it is in our power to counteract to some extent the evil effects of root injury by reducing transpi- ration, thus giving the plant time to recover ; but this aid we cannot supply in the open ground, though certain conditions may favour the process more than others. The circumstances which influence results in planting fruit trees, or any others of the deciduous type, are briefly the following : (1) The health of the tree, {2} the character and quantity of the roots, (3) the treatment these receive in trans- planting, (4) the physical character of the soil at the time, (.5) the weather which follows the planting, and (6) the atmospheric and climatal conditions prevailing at the site of the plantation. Taking these in the order named, the health of the tree is mainly due to the cultivation it has had, but ispartlytheresult of varietal peculiarities. A tree which has originated from a bud or scion that has made an imperfect union with its stock, or one which has been stunted in its early stages, is not in the best condition to resist the ill effects of transplanting. The constitutional strength, with the attendant recuperative powers, differs greatly in some varieties, and the treatment which might prove almost fatal in certain cases has but a temporary effect in others. The character and quantity of the roots are dependent upon the stocks employed, the treat- ment received, and the varieties. Successful transplanting is greatly favoured by an abundance of 13brous roots, an elementary fact on which every nurseryman founds his practice in the preparation of trees for sale. Apple trees on the Crab or seedling Apple stock are apt to have long, thick, fabreless roots, which are con- siderably reduced or unavoidably injured in the operation of lifting them from the ground. Such trees are likely to show the effects of trans- planting in a marked degree, if other conditions are unfavourable, but if two sets of that kind are compared, one of which has had some additional maltreatment, the differences may not be very marked. The primary damage completely over- shadows the secondary and experimental injury. On the other hand, the strength of the root-stock, which in the case of three year old Apples or Pears on free stocks, may be five or even six years old, permits an early recovery if the trees are not subjected to very trying atmospheric conditions. The treatment of roots in transplanting not only includes the care requisite to preserve as many as possible with the minimum of injury by wounds or laceration, but aleo protection from exposure to drying air or to frost. In a general way more permanent damage is caused by the drying of the roots than by frost ; it is often for- gotten that low temperatures are frequently attended by an exceptionally dry state of atmosphere, and it is possible for evaporation to proceed so far that the whole root system is disorganised. Spreading the roots out as evenly as circum- stances permit, in a horizontal direction, and within a moderate distance from the surface, are such obviously reasonable aids and precautions that they might suggest themselves to the inexperienced. The benefits arising from trim- ming the jagged or broken ends of roots can be teen in the ready healing of the wounds, the " callusing," and the emission of fibrous roots exactly as with cuttings. Torn and ragged roots frequently die back precisely as branches will that have not been pruned cleanly and with a sharp knife. That some heal and form roots without the attention advised is no proof that the operation is "a waste of time " ; they are the exceptions that indicate a special degree of vitality, of which abundant examples are afforded in vegetable and animal life. The physical character of the soil exerts a highly important bearing upon success in plant- ing, sufficient aeration is needed to permit the chemical and bacterial actions so essential to the due performacce of root functions. In a heavy, tenacious soil, containing excessive moisture at the time of planting, the firming needful to ensure the safety of the tree, causes a condition almost impervious to air and proportionately unfavourable to root health. Further, if the soil is not sufficiently broken down, and is filled round the roots in large clods, many roots are but partly in contact with the soil, they are unable to perform their proper functions, and are subject to severe drying influences in hot seasons. The weather which follows the time of planting is, of course, out of the grower's power to foresee or to control, but he has to judge by probabilities, and it is the only consideration seriously affecting the choice of the season for planting. If late planting is followed by a very dry spring some trees are certain to suffer ; if it be moist and dull as much success can be obtained as earlier in the year. We prefer early autumn planting for many reasons ; but we have secured a full measure of success from October until April when the soil permitted, only there is the risk mentioned, at the later time, which should be avoided whenever it is possible to do so. The atmospheric conditions prevailing at the selected site exert an influence on the behaviour of newly-planted trees, which is often over- looked. In low situations near water, where the air is normally almost saturated with moisture, transpiration is less rapid, and is restricted to a shorter portion of the day, than upon higher and more exposed positions. So marked is this that it serves to equalise many influences that might otherwise result in considerable difference in the progress of the trees. It is conceivable that some experiments under such circumstances might lead to very erroneous conclusions where the peculiarities of the locality were not given their due weight. In short, desirable as extended planting is, both of fruit and other trees, " sticking in trees " is not the method which is calculated to give satisfaction either to proprietor or planter. Let ua bring to our aid all the sound science we can command, alter our methods, and reform our systems where substantial proof is afforded for the advisability of such a course, but the follow- ing of fantastic fads will simply lead to disaster. An Old Planter. CAEBAfiE is an important vegetable, and for early spring use April and Flower of Spring are most useful. The older Kllam's Dwarf is for summer use, Matchless, Main Crop and Colewort for early autumn, and St. Martin and Christmas Drumhead for winter. Cabrots. —In a private garden mere size is not wanted. Early Nantes, Early Gem, or the Shorthorn section are good for the summer, whilst for later use Model, Matchless, Scarlet, and Scarlet Intermediate are excellent. The Cauliflower is an important vegetable, and to be a success should be grown in three sections — early, mid-season, and late. The first named must include First Crop, Early Forcing, Defiance Forcing, and Snowball. These we grow largely in frames, but they are excellent on warm borders. To follow them there is a good choice amongst Pearl Dwarf Erfurt, Purity, and Mont Blanc, whilst for late supplies the Autumn Giant and Autumn Mammoth are very good. Celery. — Such sorts as Early Rose, Superb White, Solid White, Solid Ivory White, and Standard Bearer are all gocd. Cucumbers. — The Every Day, Improved Telegraph, and Matchless are excellent. G. W. ( To be continued. ) THE KITCHEN GARDEN. SELECT VEGETABLES FOR 190 6. {Continued from page IS.) BEETS.— The new Globe or early section of late years has been much improved. Crimson Ball and Globe are excellent. For a small long sort the old Dell's Crimson is difficult to beat ; it is also a long keeper. A favourite Beet for general use is the Cheltenham Green Top, a beautifully coloured and well flavoured sort, rather large, and should not be sown too early. Such sorts as Blood Red, Nutting's Dwaif, and Pragnell's are shapely roots for exhibition. Broccoli form a large family. Unfortu- nately, some sorts are not very hardy. For early sowing a good stock of Snow's Winter White, Michaelmas White, and the most useful Self Protecting are valuable ; and for main crop. Early White, Penzance Main Crop, and Spring White. The sprouting varieties are useful where there is a large demand ; and for late use Model and Late Queen are most reliable. To this, for June cutting, should be added .June Monarch. Borecole or Kales are excellent for use from December to May. Select Dwarf Curled, Read's Hearting, Arctic Curled, and Improved Heartinp, with the new Drumhead, as these will give a full supply. Large or coarse Brussels Sprouts are not the best. Paragon, Northaw Prize, Matchless, and Dwarf Gem are all good. TURNIP ROOTED CELERY OR CELERIAC IN WINTER. This vegetable is a valuable addition to our ordinary winter supply, and it is worth more notice by those who require good vegetables from November to April. I will not in a brief note go at length into cultural details. These I have previously noted in The Garden, but I would add that few vegetables are grown with so little trouble. Last week I noticed large quantities of imported roots in the market, and very good they were. The Continental growers have evidently got a very fine type of this vegetable, but given good seed, fair culture, and ample food in the shape of moisture and plenty of liquid manure, anyone can grow as good roots as the imported ones. Unlike Celery, there is no moulding up, at least it is not necessary. Neither trenches nor quantities of decayed manure are wanted, the edible portion being the root. This to be good should be as solid as possible, and free from side roots or split crowns. The imported ones are examples, and they remain good a longtime after lifting. When stored like Beet they are good till April. In addition to its use as a boiled or cooked vegetable, it is delicious when served like Beetroot in a cold state or mixed with salad. There are several ways of cooking it as a vege- table, and served with good gravy or sauce it is delicious. G. Wythss. A VALUABLE COOKING CELERY. Of late years Celery has been more used in a cooked state than formerly, and for this purpose I find a dwarf white Celery most useful, as there is less waste, and its dwarf growth is much in its favour. Any variety of Celery may be boiled or cooked in various ways for use as a vegetable, but it is well to grow the best, and of late years White Gem has been our favourite sort for that purpose. In addition to its dwarfness it is very solid, and there is little waste. It is one of the earliest to mature, and when used as a salad I do not know of a variety that is so sweet, crisp, and has such a nutty flavour. Its dwarf growth I find causes fewer failures, the plants rarely run or bolt, and this is a strong point, as some of the large growers fail in light soils. Owing to its solid thick growth White Gem when once grown for use as a vegetable will become a great favourite. Many would find Celery in a cooked state a valuable addition to the vegetable supply from October to March, a period of the year when there are none too many good vegetables to select from. Many could (atit iu a cooked state who are unable to do so aa a salad. G. W. January 13, 1906 ] THE GARDEN. 23 ODONTOGLOSSUM WILCKEANUM SCHRODERIANUM, In the accompanying illustration part of a raceme of a beautiful new Orchid is shown. The stem from which the sketch was made carried a large number of flowers. The indivi- dual flower is large and handsome, heavily- blotched with chestnut-red upon a cream- coloured ground. The lip is large and well formed, and of a lighter shade than the sepals and petals. It was exhibited before the Orchid committee of the Royal Horticultural Societv on the 19th ult., by Mr. H. Billantine, gardener to Baron Schroder, The Dell, Eoglefield Green, Surrey, from the famous collection of Orchids there. THE ROSE-GARDEN. ROSE FRAU PETER LAMBERT. F pedigree in a Rose counts for anything we should have a mo.=t valuable acqui- sition in this variety. It is of German origin, being raised by N. Welter, and distributed in 1902, after having gained an award of merit from the German ■e Society. At the end of September I was visiting the extensive Rose grounds of with that rich rosy salmon shade which one gets in Mme. Abel Chatenay. The raiser obtained this Rose by crossing a seedling which he had raised between Kaiserin Augusta Victoria and Caroline Testout with Mme. Abel Chatenay. It is named after the wife of the respected editor of the Rosen- Zeitung, whose achievements have quite revolutionised the Rose world. One can but wish that it was not scentless, and that it possessed a little more vigour, for then it would, undoubtedly, stand in the first rank of hybrid Teas. Arthur Goodwin. JOTTINGS ABOUT ROSES. (Contimmd from Vol. LXVIIL, page 4 15.) The sixth and last variety recommended is Dawson Rambler, and a very excellent Rose it is. Few of the multiflora hybrids excel it in beauty and freedom, and Euphrosyne is quite surpassed by it. With me it is always one of the first to begin flowering, and the season has to be a very backward one if some of its flowers are not open before May is out. Then, again, it is superior to many of the multifloras because the r-^ Ro: of evergreen shrubs. I have one which has gore up a tall Holly without any training or encouragf - ment whatever, and next year, no doubt, it wi 1 afford a fine display. Several of my clirabirg Roses are in tubs with the bottoms knockeU out. In this way I have Mme. Plantier and I Dorothy Perkins trained against large Yew trees. I Both are growing well, and Mme. Plantier has been very beautiful these last two summers. Bennett's Seedling is also planted in this way, and is making steady headway up an old Oik, whose aha'le is still somewhat dense. A selection df Tea-scented Rosen j or bidding. — The plan of the sunk Rose garden is excellent and should prove of the greatest use to those who are fortunate enough to have such a piece of ground to lay out in this manner. Qaeetion V. is devoted to the varieties necessary to fill the twelve beds in the plan, and it is here that I should like to suggest some improvements. The question and the answer, together with the editorial comment upon it, are as follow : Name dwarf Tea Roses for the beds given in the plan, one variety to each bed. Consideration must be given to contrast in colour and habit of growth of varieties, freedom of flower essential, and no tender varieties should be used. Answer. — 1, G. Nabonnand ; 2, Sunriae ; 3, C. Mermet ; i, Mme. Limbard ; 5, Hor, E. Giffjrd ; 6, Mme. Hoste ; 7, Marie van Houtte ; 8, Souv. de S. A. Prince ; 9, Corallina ; 10, Bridesmaid; 11, Mme. Charles; 12, Jules Finger. [In the answer to Question V. we should have substituted Mme. Vean Dupuy for Catherine ODONTOGLOSSUM WILCKBANDM SCnRODERlANDM (NATOKAL S1ZE\ ExMjitsd recently by Enron Sir Henry Schroder, Bart., be/ore the Rnjal IIoHieuttu-al Society, and given an award of merit. Messrs. Pearson and Sons at Lowdham, and a row of this variety at once attracted my attention. Viewed from the point of a " garden " Rose it is, undoubtedly, of con- siderable merit. It is very free, and although it comes under the heading of pinkish shades, of which we already have such a plethora among hybrid Teas, yet it is quite one of the most distinctive varieties I have come across. Its chief faults are that it is a rather stumpy grower, its flowers are held almost too stiffly to be decorative, and it is scentless. Despite these drawbacks I would still recommend it as a magnificent Rose for cutting and for placing in the forefront of a Rose border, especially as it is always in flower both early arid late. The blooms are held erect on stift' stalks, and are good alike in quality and substance. In colour they are a soft rose- pink, with a distinct and very attractive whitish edging, while the centre is flushed plants flower when quite young, and one does not have to wait, as in the case of Aglaia and others, for three or four years before getting a good display. I have never tried it against a tree, but should imagine that it would be quite a success in such a position. Blush Rambler is an excellent addition, and I can well imagine that it would be of great value tor ramWing up a tree. It is very free and vigorous, and quite young plants yield splendid trusses of Apple blossom -like flowers. Moschata alba. — The Garland, Evergreen Gem (Wiohur.), Brunonis, and its double form are all varieties which I have seen planted against trees with successful results. Where the shade is not dense and the host not too vigorous there is nothing to prevent some of the finer climbers from being used, choosing none that are very tender. Soil, too, is a great factor in the situation, and, in addition, there are some trees the drip of which is quite fatal to Roses and other plants. The new wiehuraianas make fine effects where they are allowed to ramble amongst the branches I Mermet and White Maman Cochet for Brides- maid, as these two are bad growers. — Ed] The first Rose on the list to which I must take exception is Sunrise. It would, indeed, be hard to find a variety more unsuited for outdoor culture in these islands than this, and it was a surprise to me to see it recommended. My advice to readers of The Garden is not on any account to plant Sunrise as a bedder, for it is a most wretched grower, tender, and injured by the first bad weather. Under glass it is superb, but in the open there is no getting over the fact that it is a dismal failure. In its place I should plant Prdfet Monteil, a fine canary yellow Rose sent out by Bernaix some years ago. It is a capital grower, with an excellent constitution and very free. The buds are pointed, and are held erect on good sturdy stalks ; the flowers are of excel- lent form and very deep petalled. Altogether it is a fine bedding Rose of good habit and with fine foliage. With the editor's decision to strike out Catherine Mermet and insert Mme. .J. Dupuy I agree. The latter is mildew proof, hardy, 24 THE GAKDEN. [January 13, 1906 THE WATER LILY POND AT KBW. and always in flower. What more could be said of any Rose? Mme. Lombard and Hon. E. Gifford are two grand Rosea and easily retain their position, but Mme. Hoste in my judgment should come out. It is too sensitive to wet, and I should like to give its place to Lady Roberts or Anna Olivier, which is still hard to beat. Marie van Houtte, of course, is indispensable, but Souvenir de S. A. Prince droops its flowers, and this alone is a most fatal defect in a garden 1 Rose. In its stead I should employ Mm&. Berkeley, remembering its fine erect habit, bold leafage, grand autumnal effect, and freedom from the mildew Ecourge. Corallina, of course, stays. It is a magnificent garden Rose, a great grower, and one of the very finest of that long list of good Roses emanating from Waltham Cross. In place of Bridesmaid, a variety wholly unsuited for outdoors, the Editor suggests White Maman Cochet for the vacancy. Here I must venture to differ, as neither of the Cochets are suitable for bedding. Their large heavy flowers droop and are not seen to any advantage, while in a wet season they damp off without attempting to open. Mr. William Robinson, than whom there is no one in the country has had more experience in the growing of Tea-scented Roses for bedding, very rightly condemns Maman Cochet as useless for bedding. Modesty in a Violet is all very well, but it is not quite what is wanted in a bedding Rose. In its place I would put Docteur Orill, which is one of the freest and moat beautiful Tea-scented Roses we have, and this in spite of all the unkind things which " Elizibeth," in her "German Garden," says of it. Perhaps it is not as hardy as some, but I find most people can grow it successfully, and here it is quite reliable. The list is very deficient in reds or crimsons, so I would suggest that Mme. Charles be left out in favour of Princesse de Sagan, which no Tea Rose lover should be without. Its growth may not be perfect, but its brilliancy of colouring makes it indiapenaable. As for Mme. Jules Finger, it has never been a favourite of mine, and, indeed, I have never before heard anyone commend it for bedding. It is peculiarly sensitive to bad weather, and is apt on some soils to come mis- shapen ; on this score the great majority of English growers have discarded it. Several beautiful Tea-scented Roses are not included in this list, notably Mme. Antoine Mari, Comtesae Festetics Hamilton, and Morning Glow. They are a trio of exquisite sorts, but my choice would fall without hesitation upon the first-named were I perfectly sure of its hardiness. But with me and several of my rosarian frienda it has unfortunately proved a little tender, and as hardiness is a sine quit non, I will pass it over and fill the vacancy with Comtesse Festetics Hamilton, a Rose of beautiful colouring, very lasting, and standing wet well. It is a good grower, fairly free, and, although so little known, it is, as Messrs. William Paul and Sdq describe it in their citalogue, an excellent variety. In order to secure the best effects of colour and habit of growth I should suggest that the beds in the plan be planted with the varieties in the order given below : 1, G. Nabonnand ; 2, Pii^.fet Monteil ; 8, Mme. Jean Dapuy ; 4, Princesse de Sagan ; 5, Hon. E. Gifford ; 6, Mme. Barkeley ; 7, Marie van Houtte ; 8, Anna Olivier ; 9, Corallina ; 10, Dr. Grill ; 11, Mme. Lambard ; 12, Comtesse Festetics Hamilton. The consideration of Questions VI. and VII. I will leave to a future article. ARTHnR R. GoODWISf. The Elms, Kidderminster, THE FLOWER GARDEN. MINIATURE - FLOWERED POMPON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. THIS group is still very smail, although there is nothing among Chrysanthemums to compare with them for cutting. They are seldom met with, yet, either for the con- servatory or for cut flower uses, they are invaluable. Several of the better varieties flower quite late in the season, and in consequence are more highly valued than they would be were they to do so early in November. Those deserving special notice are the following : Snowdrop.— h. pretty little pure white flower borne in graceful sprays. The plant is of good habit, height about .3 feet, and it comes into flower in late November and December. Primrose League. — A primrose -yellow sport from Snowdrop, with all the character- istics of the parent variety. Deliriltt. — This is a new variety sent out from Ryecroft Nursery last spring as a decorative single sort, having five or six rows of petals. As a matter of fact it is a beautiful companion to the two first-named sorts, and may be regarded as a distinct acquisition. Colour blush pink. The plant is of excellent growth. Late November. Katie Mannings. — A charming little flower of perfect form, colour rosy bronze. It comes into flower in early November. Bushy habit and free flowering. Useful for all purposes. Lilac Gem. — This had not been seen for some time until it was exhibited at the Crystal Palace recently. It is a dainty little pale lilac flower of pleasing form, and flowers in late November and early December. Model of Perfection. — The flower in this instance merits the name. The colour is rosy lilac. The plant is dwarf, bushy, and flowers in November. Introduced in 1873. D. B. Crane. WATER LILY POND AT KEW. To thoroughly enjoy the fine coloured Water Lilies which we owe to the enterprise and skill of M. Latour-Marliac, it is necessary that they should be grown in positions at no great distance from the eye. In the large lake at Kew their efi'ect is apt to be lost, while in the herbaceous ground tank there was no room for their fully-developed growth. After seeing the pond in which Lord de Saumarez so successfully grows Water Lilies at Shrubland Park, it was decided to again bring into use an old dried-up pool in the Pinetum. The bottom was carefully puddled with clay, and this with a little patience was eventually made water tight. The water was conveniently supplied by the condensed steam from the engine - house. This still retained some heat and made the growth of many half-hardy aquatics possible. One of these, Thalia dealbata, is a striking object in .summer. On the north and south sides the turf slopes to the water edge, and Canada Rice (Zizania aquatica) flourishes in large clumps. On the other sides, the banks are masked by tangled masses of shrubs. It had long been intended to grow some representative Water Lilies in the Berberis Dell, where they would find themselves iil the neighbourhood of their botanical congeners. It was effected last year by the construction of a small tank on a level with the turf. This was an attempt to imitate the admir- able water garden of Sir William Farrer at Sandhurst Lodge. Keio. W. T. Tbiselton-Dy£R. A BEAUTIFUL IRIS. I SEND you a photograph of a plant of Iris ochroleuca, which, when it was taken, measured G feet through, was more than .5 feet high, and had forty-one spikes, most of which carried four blooms. I have always considered this species a shy bloomer ; it has never given more than from six to a dozen spikes before. Being a moisture - loving species, had the excessive rainfall of li)03 anything to do with its tioriferousness in 1004 ? John Hen.shaw. Bothamsted Cottage, Uarpenden. Januauy 13, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 25 THE ANNALS OF THE LITTLE RED HOUSE. XL— Roses. These little articles are now drawing to a close, and on looking over some of the back numbers I find I have not said much about our Roses as bushes and climbers, and nothing about ornamental shrubs. The subject of Roses has been lately so exhaustively treated in the pages of The Gaeden that there does not seem much to say. Every year fresh varieties are put upon the market, but we are contented with our old stock, adding one or two varieties occasionally. One little bit of advice I would give : keep your Hybrid Perpetuals and Tea Roses apart, for they want different soils, and both are intolerant of a position in the mixed border. I have taken all the Roses out of the borders, with the exception of the Crimson Ramblers, and Tea Roses over the arches, which here and there span the intersecting paths leading into the kitchen garden and orchard. These arches are very simple, and are made like the pergola, of six strong unbarked Oak posts crossed with short pieces of the same wood, strongly bound together with galvanised wire. Two of these arches are now quite covered with the Crimson Rambler Roses and Honeysuckle, the two blending ad- mirably ; and in their half shade beneath the ■ Madonna Lily (Lilium candidum) flourishes exceedingly. These arches face each other, and from one runs a long path through the kitchen garden. It is edged with the sweet old-fashioned white Pink, which nothing shall deprive me of, and it is crammed with the multi-coloured Primroses, Dean's hybrids, Polyanthus, and the double sorts, white, lavender, red, and yellow ; Auriculas, Anemones, and quantities of bulbs for spring flowering. These charming things are backed by old-fashioned Boursault and Provence Roses, Maiden's Blush, and Moss, which give, as the summer advances, Ihe requisite shade which the Primula family demand. A certain quantity of annuals are sown here in the spring to keep up the colour scheme, but this border is more or less dedicated to spring, and nowhere in the garden do the Primroses flower so well. 'They keep wonderfully true to colour in their seedlings, which 1 find in hundreds all over the gravel paths. These are now lifted and planted in the orchard grass ; the old clumps can be divided at any time. To return to the subject of Roses, I find the ramblers all do so much better trained over a young Fir sapling with its branches just shortened back. This variety seems to call for light, abundance of air, and their own sweet will. The Rose Queen Alexandra, for instance, has not been satisfactorily trained over the balustrades, so the plant is to be moved and planted against a Fir pole ; and the Waltham Rambler, too, is peeky and discontented, so it will be given another start over an old Apple tree. I hope Lady Gay will prove as good as her word, or the word of her admirers ; but Roses in an exhi- bition tent are often very misleading. With us Aglaia has behaved in a manner beyond all praise, and evidently likes the position we have given her, trained along the balustrades. She is, however, not a bright yellow, as is stated in Rose catalogues, but quite a pale primrose, whitening under the san's rays ; but she is very early in flowering. very free, not affected by cold, and altogether charming. But as yet I think Dorothy Perkins is altogether the prettiest and most reliable of the ramblers, next to the original crimson, and I am making two new arches which I shall cover completely with the pretty Dorothy, and near her plant clumps of Delphinium azureum, and more white Lilies. Now a few words on Sheubs and Flowbeing Trees, which are so necessary for the beauty of a garden. Some of the prettiest of these are a little delicate in a valley like ours, where we have to contend with late frosts, but only require protecting, or, at the most, matting up. I have often wondered why we do not go in more for Camellias. They are quite hardy if planted out of the reach of north and north- east winds and in a proper mixture of peat and fibrous loam ; and we must also remember that, though they will stand more frost than a common Laurel, their main stems and larger branches are apt to be caught, so it is prudent to mat them up and throw some Fern or leaves over their roots. The following are good hardy sorts : Lady Hume's Blush, Double White, Duke of Devonshire, Floria, Imbricata, and Countess of Orkney ; and there is a pretty little single red variety of which I do not know the name. Azalea mollis and A. ponticum will enjoy the same soil as prepared for the Camellias. Weigela rosea and alba, Ribes sanguineum (flowering Currant), Kerria japonica (Jew's Mallow), various Thorns (double and single), double Cherry, Crab Apples, and Almonds. Kalmias also for peaty soil. Guelder Rose, Hibiscus, Gum Cistus, Abelia rupestris (somewhat delicate for rock or high ground), Syringa (mock Orange Flower), and Laurustinus. There are several varieties of Laburnum, a fact not generally known to the amateur, so if you are making a garden you should get the finest. Waterer's Laburnum, Parkesi, and grandiflorum are the best, and put in a Scotch Laburnum to come in later. And when you buy Lilacs see they are not grafted on Privet — a fatal fault. Marie Legray is the best white, and for purple Louis van Houtte is reliable, and also Charles the Tenth (which forces white), and Dr. Lindley, and there are splendid new double sorts in both white and red-purple. Be cautious about Acers (Maples), as some are too delicate to be satisfactory. It is the damp cold of our winters that kills them, but they are charming things, and some of the hardiest are worth a trial. Bamboos are rapidly becoming popular, and some kinds are quite hardy. They, too, must be sheltered from north and north-east winds. I believe Bambusa Metake, Arundinaria anceps, and A. Simoni are some of the best, but there are a great many sold as hardy. Their graceful foliage is at its best when everything else is at its worst ; but it seems unsatis- factory that as soon as the clumps have arrived at maturity they flower and die. I have not included Rhododendrons because the ground must be entirely suitable, though I believe the only thing they abso- lutely dislike is chalk ; but I do not think after you have seen them growing on the peat you will think it is worth the trouble to go in for any quantity. They are expen- sive plants, too, if you buy them as named seedlings, the only satisfactory plan, for the grafted ones constantly go back to the parent ponticum, and you find one fine day that where you thought you had a beautiful hybrid you have a common, worthless, wild Rhododendron. This, of course, is not meant to be a com- prehensive list of shrubs. I think we are apt to get into a groove in gardening, and certainly we are finding out every day that we can grow things in our English gardens that were never dreamt of fifty years ago. Hardy Heaths, too, are charming. Augusta de Lacy Lacy. IRIS OCHROLEUOA in the gardes or MR. JOHN HENSHAW, HAKPENDEN. 26 THE GARDEN. [jANaARY 13, 19C6. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. PLOWEE-POT WITH DRAINAGE. POTTING PLANTS. — Unleea plants, and especially plants in rooms, are carefully and properly potted, they will never grow satisfactorily. Often plants that fail to thrive are suffering from bad potting, and no amount of cleaning leaves, top-dressing with fresh soil, or careful watering will do good while the essential to the success of plant culture in pots, i.e., proper potting, is wanting. In the first place, it is im- portant to have clean pots. They should be well scrubbed out and placed to dry before being used. If the pots are new, they should be soaked before use, otherwise they absorb a good deal of moisture when water i% applied to the roots, and consequently the latter do not derive all the benefit they should do from it. Drainage is the next important item. This may consist of pieces of broken flower-pot, commonly called "creeks" or "potsherds," or even broken brick or small clinkers. The former are the best. They must be arranged in this way. Place a large, flat piece of crock over the hole at the bottom of the pot, so as to cover it effectually. ; Then cover the bottom of the pot, about half-an- inoh or so deep, with rather smaller crocks, and upon them place smaller bits still. As a general guide, the depth of drainage in a pot of 6 inches diameter should be, say, three-quarters of an inch. This will answer for all ordinary plants. Place some rough turfy soil, from which the small particles have been shaken out, upon the crocks, so as to prevent the drainage becoming choked. Then upon the turfy soil place a certain amount of the compost prepared for potting the plant ; how much will depend upon the sizs of the pot and of the plant. It should be as much as will bring the plant to be potted to its proper height in the new pot. This can readily be determined when we say that, again taking the 6-inch-diameter pot for an example, the surface-roots of the plant must be covered with about half an inch of soil, and above the soil surface there must be a space of rather more than half an inch left to hold water when this is given. Arabis. — Whilst the common Arabis albida will always be found in cottage gardens and in market gardens where it is propagated in immense quanti- ties every autumn, it will long also find a place in ordinary gardens not only as an early border ' flower, but also for growing on rockwork. For flowering, the green form is much better than the silver-leaved or variegated variety, though that too grows strong and flowers freely. I f needed for its leafage, then the flowers should be gathered. But for edgings and especially for its foliage none is better than the close, compact aad almost rosette-like golden variegated lucida variegata, though sometimes called mollis variegata. This should not be allowed to bloom, indeed it does not bloom much. The plants should be lifted an! be replanted every October both to have them very : evenly placsd and to increase the fctDck. The variety does not increase fast, but in a few years 1 a very fine stock of plants niiy be secured. Once ' obtained it will be hard to lose if but ordinary care '. be taken to keep the plants safe. Uaefvi Winter Flowering Plants. — If we except the Chrysanthemums, there are no more useful flowering plants for the last three morths of the year in the greenhouse than the 8 ilvias. Amongst i SIMPLE HINTS. the scarlet sorts, S. eplendens and its varieties are the best, but equally fine is the blue-flowered S. azurea, several groups of which made a most delightful display in the conservatory at Kew. Unlike the dwarf varieties of S. splendens, which when well grown make handsome indi- vidual specimens, this species is of tall, somewhat sparse habit, and to obtain the best effect should be arranged in groups when in flower. It grows from 3 feet to 5 feet high, and has narrow, linear leaves 2 inches to 3 inches long, the flowers being borne on spikes 8 inches to 1 foot long. The lower whorls of flowers open first, and as they die away others higher up are developed, and by this means a continuation of bloom is kept up for many weeks. The main feature of the flower is its lower lip, which is half an inch wide and of a i clear blue, relieved only by a patch of blue- tinted white in the centre. It is a native of West North America, the best form in cultivation being that known as the variety grandiflora. Seeds to he Sown now Under Glass. — Ailsa Craig Onion. This variety is very largely raised under glass in heat at this season, and, after being hardened by gradual exposure, planted out early in April in rows 1 foot apart, and 6 inches apart in the rows. At these distances very large bulbs are produced. The land, of course, should be well manured and deeply worked. Everyone who wants a heavy crop of fine Oaions will in the future adopt this plan, and those who have no glass will sow in autumn a good keeping kind ' instead of the Tripoli varieties. If sown on well- drained land made firm. Onions which are usually sown in spring are hardy enough to stand the winter. Allotment holders and small farmers generally might give some attention to this crop, but it will not pay to grow a weedy, badl)-- cultivated kind. Caulifloioers, Brussels Sprouts, and Celery. — Many have given up sowing Cauliflowers in August, sowing in heat under glass in January instead. The seeds are sown in boxes thinly, and placed on shelves near the glass in a warm house. When large enough to transplant they are placed singly in small pots and kept in heat in a light position till well established ; they are hardened off, and planted out in a warm border in March or as soon as the weather is suitable. There are numbers of good early varieties. We generally sow Snowball, Eclipse, and Autumn Giant, so as to have a succession. Sowings are also made outside in March, or as soon aa the outside con- ditions are favourable. Brussels Sprouts are sown under cooler conditions, so that the plants may be sturdy. For the same reason the plants when large enough are pricked off 6 inches apart outside. A box or two of a dwarf white Celery may be sown now, as it will be required for flavouring. Burbanl's Crimson Winter Rhubarb. — The raiser of this Rhubarb has won a great reputation in Amferica, the sound of which has reached us here. California has a splendid soil and a genial climite, and the plants raised there might not suit us here, or they might fail altogether. But this Rhubarb is cheap enough now to give it a trial. I notice small roots are catalogued at ISi. per dcz?n. According to the description it is a perpetual bearer. The only time when it rests is just for a short time in summer. If it does not fall very far short of its description, it ought to pay the amateur to plant, as it only requires protection in severe weather, no forcing is required, and it keeps growing all the winter. Runner Beans for Forcing. — A gardening friend last spring planted a row of Veitch'a variety of Climbing French Beans on each side of a span- roofed house, and trained the plants up to the wires near the glass where Tomatoes had previously been growing, and the crop was a great success. This way of growing Beans ought to pay the market grower. From what I have seen I think there is more money in growing Climbing French Beans under glass, starting now in a warm house, than there is in Tomatoes, as in addition to the rows on each side of the house, circular clumps may be planted in the beds on each side, leaving just room enough to move between. Early Tomatoes. — There are far too many varieties, or so-called varieties, of Tomatoes. We are trying Carter's Sunrise, which has been certificated by the Royal Horticultural Society. This new Tomato is very well spoken of, and all those who intend trying new varieties should note this. Other good early kinds are Chemin Rouge, Comet, Earliest of All, Early Ruby, and Challenger. For heavy cropping we had nothing equal to Lawrenson's No. 3. For house use a gcod Yellow Tomato is desirable. To my mind there is more flavour in a good yellow Tomato than in most of the red kinds, but the market people will not have them. Those who would like to try a yellow variety will be satisfied with Golden Nugget and Golden Queen. Sow the seeds thinly in a temperature of 60° to 65", and keep in a light position. Transplant into single pots as soon as large enough. The Black Currant. — Many amateurs seem to think that the Black Currant requires the same treatment and culture as the Red and White ones do. This is alto- gether a mistaken idea ; the Black Currant requires quite different treatment. In the first place, it likes a deep, moist soil and a somewhat shaded position. It dislikes poor, light land, and does not grow there at all well unless the land is improved by mulching and manuring. When Black Currant cut- tings are made the lowest buds must not be removed, as is done with those of the Red and White Currant cuttings, for the fruit is borne chiefly upon wood of the previous season's growth. The object, therefore, should be to introduce annually as many young shoots as pos- sible, for they will bear fruit the follow- ing year. Suckers produce fruit equally as well as shoots that originate from the branches, and therefore must not be siiowiNn now to i'Bu.nk destroyed. At the the black odjirant January 13, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 27 annual winter pruning remove the old wood to make room for the new, by thus cutting the older shoot back to a point where a younger one originatea the buah is kept full of good bearing wood. The accompanying illustration shows a shoot of the old wood which has borne fruit and the growth which was made, say, last summer, and will bear fruit next year. The old wood which has borne fruit must be cut out ; in fact, the pruning of the Bla«k Oarrant consists chiefly in thinning out the old wood, so that the young wood to bear fruit the following yeir may be well developed and matured. Some of the Small Birds, bullfinches especially, delight in picking out the buds from Goose- berry and Currant bushes in spring, and, if not destroyed or driven away, soon inflict serious damage. Caterpillars appear during early summer and feed upon the leaves. Un- doubtedly the most effective plan, although it occupies considerable time, is to pick off the pssts by hand. It is an excellent plan to scatter lime among the branches of the bushes after rain, so that it adheres closely, and also spread some over the ground. When this is carried out occasion- ally throughout spring and summer caterpillars are rarely troublesome. Some caterpillars injure the interior of a shoot of a Currant bush, and decay results. If such happens, the shoot should be cut off and destroyed. IJlack fly also attacks the ends of the young growth. To kill this dip the latter in a strong solution of soft soap and warm water. The Blue Marguerite — No particular season of the year can be assigned for the blooming of this pretty blue-flowered composite, Agathsei coslestis, upon which by some the name of the blue Mar- guerite is bestowed. Planted out of doors at the same time as the various bedding plants it will flower thoughout the summer ; whereas if struck in the spring or early summer, confined altogether in pots, and grown in the open air in a position fully exposed to the sun, it will if stopped freely during its earlier stages form neat little bushes, which by the end of the summer are bristling with flower-buds, and taken then into the green- house they will maintain a succession of bloom for a long time. The pretty blue flowers are very useful for cutting, their straight wiry stems being a great point in their favour. Orchid Groioing for Beginners. — Imported Orchids. — The facilities that now exist for sending packages to or from most quarters of the globe, combined with the fact that many Orchids are good travellers, often lead to their being sent home by friends abroad. A great deal of the success or otherwise attending them depends upon their treatment on arrival. Im- ported Orchids should immediately on receipt be carefully examined and any decaying parts be cut away, a sharp look-out being kept for insects, as they may prove troublesome later on. Then lay them on a stage in the house and give an occa- sional bedewing with the syringe till they become leas shrivelled, after which no lime should be lost in potting them according to the directions given in an earlier part of this series. The Orchids to Select. — A selection of good cheap easily-grown kinds suitable for an inter- mediate temperature is herewith given. Cattleya gaskelliana, gigaa, Harrisonise, intermedia, labiata, Loddigesii, Mendelii, Mossi^, Sehro- derse, and TriaDse, These need to be well supplied with water at all seasons. Crelogyne cristata : When growth is completed this should have but little water for a time. Cypripedium (Lady's Slipper) barbatum, Boxalli, callosum, Charlesworthii, crossianum, harrisianum, insigne, lathamianum, lawrenceanum, lesanum, fenanthum, purpuratum, spicerianum, and venustum. These must be watered regularly throughout the year. Dendrobium Ainsworthii, chryeotoxum, cras- sinode, densiflorum, fimbriatum, jamesianum. nobile, Pierardi, primulinum, thyrsiflorum, and wardianum : As a rule these require liberal treat- ment ; after that a period of rest by keeping fairly dry and placing at the cool end of the house. Lailias cinnabirina, harpophylla, Perrinii, pur purata, and tenebro:?a n^pd the same treatmeni as Cittleyas. Lyciste Skinneri r The cool end of the house will suit it best. Masdevallia veitchiana : As cool as possible ; water through- out the year. 0 Jontofjlosaum cil rosmum, grande, Halli, harryanum, Insleayi, maculatum, pul- chellum, and Ro-sii; Ot these 0. ciiroimum must be kept dry when growth is complete till flowers appear. Others need to be kept moist throughout the year. The cool end of the house will suit these beat. Oacidium ooncolor, crispum, curtum, flexuoaum, Forbesii, incurvuni, ornilhorhynchum, sarcodes, tigrinuni, and varicosum will thrive in any part of the house. Must be watered regu- larly. Phaius grandifolius needs some good loam mixed with the other compost. Dj not let the soil become quite dry at any time. Pobralia macrantha : Sime treatment as the preceding. S iphronitis grandiflora : Treat as Cittleya. Thunia alba : Liberal treatment when growing, after which keep dry and fairly cool till spring. Trichopilia coocinea, fragrans, laxa, and suavis : When growth is completed water carefully, but do not keep too dry. Trichosma suavis : As for Cattleya. Vanda cterulea (the Blue Orchid) : Pot in crocks and moss only. Keep alwa} s moist. Zygopetalums crinitum and Mackayi : Keep moist at all seasons. — T. GARDENING OF WEEK. THE H FLOWER GARDEN. ARDY FLOWER BORDERS.— The large number of kinds and varieties of hardy plants, some requiring full sun, others shade, render it possible to make borders of lovely flowers in any aspect. There is no best place for a hardy flower border, but rather a best place for the particular class of plants we wish to grow. Borders may be nude facing north, south, east, or west; one can always find plants that will be happy in them. No doubt the place of all for effect is the bold border seen across grass, with a good background of shrubs. Many of the strong, tall-growing perennials look best from a distance. Borders for perennial plants must be thoroughly made at first. We have to bear in mind that whereas some plants thrive best when taken up, divided, and replanted annually, some every two years, others take two or three jeirs to become established, and will flourish for many years if left undisturbed. Borders may be made of any width, but those from 20 feet to 30 feet are more effective than the narrowborder, and admit of grouping plants in natural ways. In Making a Boeder, dig out a trench 3 feet deep, 4 feet or 5 feet wide, to be made half full of refuse from the garden rubbish heap. The rougher the refuse the batter. Old flower- stems. Asparagus, Bean, and Artichoke stalks are valuible, as, in addition to the manurial properties they contain, they also act as drainage. The soil from the next trench should be placed on top, proceeding in this way until the whole is trenched. Level the border, and dig again one spitand a-half deep, placing a quantity of good, well-rotted stable manure in the bottom of each trench. Again level the border, and surface it with 6 inches of old hot-bed leaf-mould and sand. Let it lie till March to settle. It should then be forked over twice, and it will be ready to receive the plants. Borders made in this way never b^come water-logged, nor do the plants suffer from drought in the summer. Propagating. — Obtain a stock of seed-boxes, pots, and pane, and prepare hot-beds with leaves and stable litter to afford bottom-heat in addition to the pipes in the propagating house. Stock plants of Heliotropes, Lobelias, Verbenas, Salvias, and Marguerites should be encouraged to make growth for propagating. Sow seeds of Begonia in pans and plunge in a hot-bed, and cover with a sheet of glass till germination has taken place. Antirrhinums may also be sown now in boxes or pans, and placed in a warm house. Plants from eeeds sown now will flower well in July and August. Possibly young plants from last .July sowing may be killed by very sharp frosts or wet weather. The spring sowing will then be valuable. G. D. Davison. Westwick Gardens, Norwich. FRUIT GARDEN. Raspberries. — If these were attended to by cutting away all old wood and the weakest shoots, to allow a free admission of air and light immediately after the fruiting period, the present is a suitable time to go over them again, leaving from six to eight of the strongest shoots to each stool ; they should be neatly tied to their supports. Give the whole of the ground between the rows and plants a top-dressing of farmyard manure. Any suckers that may have been left for making fresh plantations can now be lifted and planted in their peimanent quarters, which should have been previously lirenched and liberally treated with manure. Gooseberries, — The pruning of Gooseberries may now be carried out on all favourable occasions'. Young bushes should be carefully handled, as their subsecjuent symmetry and fruitfulness depend very much on the manner in which they are pruned from their earliest stages. The young wood should be shortened back to the buds situated in the best position for producing young shoots in the desired direction, leaving rather more buds on the stronger shoots than on the weaker ones. Older bushes only require judicious thinning ; remove entirely any branches with a downward tendency, or those crossing one another, and leave the young shoots wherever possible their full length. Gooseberries fruit much more freely on the young wood than is generally supposed, but to ensure this the young wood must not be shortened. Suckers should be removed by pulling them clean off the stem instead of cutting them. Black Currants only require dead wcol removed and the branches well thinned out, removing as much old wood as possible to induce fresh shoots to spring from the base of the bushes. Cuttings may be treated in the same way as recently advised for Gooseberries, except that the lower buds need not be suppressed. If the bushes are infested with the Currant-bud mite burn all affected growths, and carefully hand pick all swollen buds from the branches left ; in addition remove the surface soil from under the bushes and burn this also, replacing it with fresh soil. If the pest has thoroughly established itself it may be well to destroy the whole plantation and replant with a fresh, clean stock in a different part of the garden, after burning every particle of the bushes and surface soil where they have bean growing. The variety Boskoop Giant is said to be less liable to the attacks of this pest, but care should be taken to procure the young stock trom a locality where the pest is unknown. Early Peaches. — Succession houses should now be kept closed, but without raising the temperature very much for a week or two. See that the borders have been well supplied with water, and syringe the trees lightly on bright days. The cleaning and tying of later houses can now be pushed forward. If the proper thin« ning out of the shoots was attended to as soon as the fiuita were all gathered very little pruning at this season will be required. Both the trees and the houses thould be thoroughly washed with soap and svarm water, and if the house is a lean-to the back wall can be freshly lime- washed. 28 THE GAKDEN. [January 13, 1906. If the trees are in a healthy and robust condition the border need only get attention in watering before starting, otherwise the surface of the border can be removed and a dressing of fresh soil with artificial manure added. Melons. — Melon seeds may now be sown to furnish plants for an early crop. The seeds should be sown singly in small pots, and placed in a temperature of from 70" to 75°. As soon as they are well up place them near the glass to prevent drawing, putting a stick and tie to each plant to support them until strong enough to be potted on into larger pots or into their fruiting quarters. Glamis Castle Gardens, Olamis. T. Wilson. KITCHEN GARDEN. Trenching. — In trenching it is of the utmost Importance that the work should be done thoroughly. The quantity of manure dug in must be determined by the crop that it is intended to grow. Before commencing to trench one has to consider the nature of the ground, as to whether it is best to bring the bottom spit to the top or simply turn it over, which prccass is really double digging or bastard trenching. On new or reclaimed land it is best to adopt this latter system for the first year, using plenty of manure. Attention should always be paid to the level of the ground, so that there are no hollows. A good digger can tell at a glance how the surface is, and remedy any little irregularity as he goes along. During a spell of frosty weather see that the manure is spread about to prevent the ground from becoming too hard. Neither frozen masses of soil nor snow should on any account be dug into the ground, as they are so long in thawing, and for a considerable time afterwards the soil is in a cold, saturated condition, which is most unfavourable to vegetation, AuTCMN-sowN Peas require attention. When the soil is dry and workable draw some up to those above ground. Staking may be done, putting the sticks in rather close, as much for protection now as for support later. If very early Peas are required they should be sown without delay. If grown in pots a variety of about 3 feet in height should be selected. Clean pots of 9 inches or 10 inches diameter should be used. Well drain, and three parts fill with a mixture of loam two parts, leaf-mould or old Mushroom-bed material one part, and a little road grit, well mixed together. Place the pots in any light and airy structure where a night temperature of about 50" can be main- tained. Water the pots if the soil is dry, then sow the seeds thinly, and cover with the compost about 1 inch. Where space allows Peas can be successfully cultivated in cold frames or pits. If the soil is fairly good manure well decayed will be sufficient ; but if poor, loam and road grit should be added and dug in, as well as the manure. After sowing keep the pits closed till the Peas appear through the soil, covering at night if the weather is severe. Varieties of a dwarf-growing nature are beet suited for this siyle of culture. French Beans. — Successional sowings of French Beans should be attended to, using pots of 8 inches diameter or narrow boxes 2 feet long, 10 inches or 12 inches wide at the top, narrowing to about 8 inches at the bottom, and 10 inches deep, with holes for water to run away, using the same compost as recommended for the Peas. Ne Plus Ultra is a good reliable variety, but Oaborn's and Veitch's early forcing Beans are dwarf er and earlier. Lettuce and CAULirLowER. — Sowings of Lettuce and forcing Cauliflower should now be made, using seed boxes filled with a light com- post, and placed in a temperature of about 50" to 55° at night. Cover the boxes to keep them dark until the seed has germinated. Potatoes. — Plant Potatoes in pots of not less than 10 inches diameter, planting three or four tubers to a pot, using a light compost. Well drain, and three pait3 fill the pots, allowing room for earthing up when necessary. Sharpe's Victor and Sutton's May Queen are good varieties, but I find Sharpe's Victor the better for pot work. The end of an early vinery is a good place for both French Baans and Potatoes to start, removing the Potatoes to a more airy situation as the tops show through the soil. Seakalb. — Keep up successions of Seakale, placing the roots in the Mushroom house or any other dark place where a temperature of .55° to 60" can be maintained. Protect Celery from heavy rains. See that Globe Artichokes are well protected from frost. Seed drawers should be cleaned out in readiness for the arrival of the new seeds. Unless it is really necessary I do not recommend using old seed. J. Jaques. Bryanston Gardens, Blandford. ORCHIDS. Calanthes. — The deciduous section of Calanthee, such as Veitchii, V. alba, Vestita varieties, Bryan, Regnieri, &c. , are now in flower or bud, and water should be given sparingly until the flowering season is past, when water should be entirely withheld. Calanthes look well arranged in masses between Ferns or other foliage plants at the warmest end of a conservatory or inter- mediate house, but care should be taken not to place the plants upon a wet stage, as the com- post in which they are grown will probably get too wet and cause the pseudo-bulbs to rot. This is easily avoided by placing a receptacle, such as a pot, underneath them. After flowering they take up less room if turned out of the pots and the soil shaken off. them, and then placed in boxes of dry sand on a shelf in the warm house, where they may remain until new growth com- mences in the spring. One of the prettiest Orchids now in flower is Masdevallia tovarensis, with its snow-white flowers, which appear just above the leaves ; these are useful for cutting purposes at this time of the year. If the flowers are needed it is advisable to take them off singly and wire them, leaving the old spikes, which will flower again next year. A light position at the coolest end of the intermediate house is a good place to grow them, and water should be given freely when the compost becomes dry. Sophronitis orandiflora is a charming little cool house subject now in flower. When the plants are well cultivated upwards of twenty blooms are obtained on each plant, and to see a dozen or more well-flowered plants at the same time is very pleasing. Now that they are growing freely a light position should be given them, and the roots should be kept in a moist condition. Small scale often attack them, especially if the plants are not in a healthy condition, so it is necessary to examine them occasionally for the purpose of cleaning them. ODONTOGLOSStJMS. — Many plants of 0. crispum are now pushing their flower-spikes, and no weakly plant should be allowed to flower unless newly imported and one wishes to form an opinion of the variety. Plants that have had their flower-spikes pinched out and have finished their growth should be given a rest by keeping them moderately dry at the root ; others growing freely should be well watered until the growth is matured. Keep a buoyant atmosphere in the house at all times, and if the bottom ventilators are so placed that the air passes the pipes before reaching the plants, it is advisable to admit a little at all times, and the top ones should be used with discretion during mild weather, taking care to avoid draughts. O. Pescatorei that are completing growth should be given less water at the root than 0. crispum, as they are liable to make new growth instead of producing flower- spikes. 0. cirrhosum and the beautiful hybrids Harryano-crispum, 0. ardentissimum, Flolfei, &c,, require much the same treatment as the crispums. Plenty of peat, loam, Polypodium fibre, and sphagnum moss should be prepared now for future use. W. H. Page. Chardwar, Bomlon-on-the- Water. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Ansv^eps.— rAe Editor intends to make THE Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, arvi with that object will make a special feature of the ^^ Answers to Correspondents" colum.n. All comm,unica- tions should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The na/me aiid address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Legal Points.— TTe are prepared to answer questions of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and forestry. The questions should be as dear aiid explicit as possible. Answers will be found in a separate cohtmn headed "Legal Points. " FLOWER GARDEN. Chrtsanthemums for Pot Culture {E. J.). Much will depend on the varieties you grow. Strong cuttings early in the year, struck in a cool frame where they do not get drawn up, make the best plants. The majority of sorts may be stopped about the end of April. Firm potting in good compost will secure short, hard shoots. The plants do best when plunged in the ground ; it will do no harm for a few roots to get through the pots, but if they show signs of growing too vigorously turn them round to break the roots off. Growing the plants from one stem for the market requires considerable skill. You suggest saucers for the pots to stand in, but market growers never use them. Stopping and Timing Chrysanthemums for Exhibition {T. C, North Manchester) — For the benefit of other readers of The Garden we give the date for stopping the plants in London, at the same time stating that an allowance of rather less than a week should be made for growers in Manchester, and ten days to a fortnight in the case of Scotch growers — that is to say, growers in the Midlands and the North should begin stopping earlier than growers in London and the South, and to the extent just laid down. The varieties in your list are all Japanese, with three exceptions, and should be treated as follows: .Japanese. Name. ^'"Vm//'^ "" ^"^^''^ Mrs. T. Dalton May 21 1st crown Mrs. Geo. Mileham Natural break ,, Mrs. Barklay .lat week in April.. ..2nd crown Mrs. A. H. Lee 3rd week in March .. ,, Mrs. J. Dunn ,, ,, ,, Mrs. Swinburne April 15 Ist crown F. S. Vallis Natural break „ • Matthew Smith Ist week in April .... 'Jnd crown Mme. Paolo Ridaelli Ist week in May . . . .lat crown Mme. Waldeck Rousseau. .Last week in May . . ,, W. R. Church End of March 2nd crown Guy Hamilton March 15 ,, Henry Peikins lat week in April ,, Lady Convers Late March ,, General Uutton 3rd week in May lat crown W. Duckham April 15 2nd crown Valerie Greenham Last week in March . . ,, Simplicity ,, ,, .. ,, Mrs, Eric Crosaley Natural break 1st crown Mrs. C. F. Booaey „ „ ,, Charles Hobbs 3rd week in March . . 2nd crown Mrs. R. 0. Pulling April I.') „ F. A. Cobbold lat week in April .... ,, J. H. Silsbury April 15 „ Mrs. J. Lewis 1st week in April. ... ,, Ikcorved. Charles Curtis Last week in Mai ch . . 'Jnd crown Lady Isabel 1st week in April .... „ Souvenir de \Vm. Clibran . . ,, ,,.... ,, The above dates are given on the assumption that the cuttingB are already inserted, or that it is proposed to insert them forthwith. This is important, especially in the case of those where a ** natural break " is recommended. January 13, 1906. J THE GAEDEN. 29 Flower Border (C. F. Yorke). — There is not the least reason why you may not make a pood and showy border. The presence of the two sets of Rosea will onlj' be a detriment so far as you may not with impunity plant anything and everything in their immediate vicinity. You had better con- fine yourself to early flowering bulbs, such aa Fritillarias, Narcisei, Tulips, and other things among the standard Roses, with Carnations, Tufted Pansies, &c., among the bush Roses. To follow the bulbs, Montbretias and the autumn- flowering Lilies could be planted. No tall flowering plant should be flowering among the Roses in Rose time, but before and after. You may now plant Anemones, Ranunculus, Gladioli, Montbretias, &c., these with Carnations, Tufted Fansies, and some annuals would make quite a display in 1906. The other part of the border could be devoted to herbaceous plants, and these would also flower in the year of planting. T. W. IT.— Arabia albida flore-pleno would suit your purpose well. It growa rapidly, and soon covera a large surface, while in spring it is a maaa of flower. X. 1', Z.—Sow your Sweet Peas in March. If you have not mnch room in the borders, sow them in tuba. If the tubs are properly drained and filled with rich soil the Sweet Peas will do splendidly. They will need a great deal of water during the summer months. Curious. —The new Nigella Miss Jekyll does best if sown in the autumn, according to Messrs. Sutton and Sons, who have had ample opportunities of observing Ihia plant. It is perfectly hardy, and will therefore pass through the winter without taking any harm. Autumn-sown plants are sturdier and stronger than those sown in the spring. C F. 3'orA:e.— If the patches are very large or numerous from the removal of the Daisies, you had better at once patch with good turf, to be followed by a top-dressing of veiy short manure, wood ashes, and loam in about equal parts, passing this through a sieve of three-quarter-inch mesh. If the gaps are not of a size to warrant the use of turf, the better way will be to apply the top-dressing at once, and in April obtain good lawn grass from a reliable source, thickly sowing the same over the bare spots, and, finally, give a further dressing of finely-sifted wood ashes over all. When the young grass is well up, a slight dressing of sulphate of ammonia could be given at the rate of lib. to a barrowful of finely-sifted loam or wood ashes. The soil and the manure should be thoroughly mixed, and lightly sown over the lawn. TREES AND SHRUBS. The Douglas Fir {H. H. Wyndham). — AmoBg the Californian trees which are suitable for our country, perhaps the most tried so far is the Douglas Fir, but we cannot see that the trials made up to now in England confirm the hopes of it, although we do see it thriving well occasion- ally here and there, especially in open, free soils in the West Country, in Ireland, and in Norfolk. The Menzies' Spruce or Fir, however, sometimes called a variety of the Douglas, is, we think, at least as well worthy of planting as the Douglas. We have seen some plantations of it on our cold Eastern Coast handsome in colour, tall, and rapid in growth, with fine effect. The fact of its having been introduced into the State forests of Prussia is also a point worth noting. It should be tried in light and open soils. Climbees on Trees (Gaiiseway).—Tlhei diffi- culty of displaying the features of the climber is found in the poverty of the soil near the tree, together with the shade given by the tree itself. Fresh soil, it is true, can be given for planting the climber in, and this further stimu- lated by soakings of liquid manure, but even then climbers sometimes refuse to grow at all. Deciduous trees only are suited for this mode of planting, and those not having a heavy or dense head of foliage. The Acacias, Laburnums, and such-like may in many cases be utilised in pro- ducing very pretty effects in the near or distant landscape. The common form of the Virginian Creeper is better for this purpose than the neat and small-leaved Ampelop'is Veitchi, because its loose sprays hanging from overhead branches bring its colour and graceful aspect into greater prominence. Much care is needed on the part of those having to do the mowing of the grass near trees so planted, otherwise the labour extending over several years may be undone in a moment. Clematises are very pretty subjects for trailing over large bushes or low standard trees ; so are the Honeysuckle and Wistaria. T. J. il'.— The best plan to adopt with your Oak is to cut the brauches away at the first living branch below the dead portions, at the same time coating all the wounds over with tar. Do not remove all the younp: growth away from the trunk ; thin it out and leave a number of the strongest and best-placed branches. These will aesist the tree to recover. U. P. SmjiWie.— The Cornish Heath is one of the latest flowering of all the hardy Heaths, and is still nicely in bloom after the colour has faded from the numerous varieties of the common Ling (Calluna vulgaris). It is one of the most desirable of our native or European Heaths, being quite hardy, growing freely in any soil that is devoid of lime, and flowering with unfailing regularity from August to the end of autumn. Its dark green leaves are larger than those of most Ericas, and the flowers, which are produced in the closely-set leaf axils, form in the mass, large, erect, tapering racemes, which give a most graceful aspect to the plant. In the ordinary form the flowers are of a pale reddish purple colour, but there are besides a pretty variety with white flowers called alba, and another with more closely-packed racemes called grandiflora. ROSE GARDEN, Roses as Lakge Bushes (H. R. Rose). — Many Roses will make large bushes if planted in good soil, well looked after, and lightly pruned. Among those that specially lend themselves to forming large bushes are Claire Jacquier, Diwson Rose, Reine Olga de Wurtemburg, Ulrioh Brunner, Waltham Climber No. 1, Magna Charta, Mme. Plantier, Gloire de Dijon, Flora, Fellenberg, Conrad F. Meyer, Rose Blanc double de Courbet, rugosa rosea, and Mme. Alfred Carriiire. Buttonhole Roses {31. G. G.).—Al\ the fol- lowing produce neat flowers suitable for making buttonholes. The large show Tea Roses are now largely worn, but you will find those mentioned below the most serviceable : A. K. Williams, W. A. RiohardEon, L'Ideal, Gustave R^^is, Papa Gontier, Souv. de Catherine Guillot, Killarney, Sunrise, Mme. Abel Cbatenay, Souvenir du President Carnot, common Moss, Blanche Moreau, Victor Hugo, Bouquet d'Of, Anna Olivier, Mme. Falcot, Mme. Hoste, Mme. P. Perny, and Marie van Houtte. Tea P>,oses in the Highlands (^4. A.). — We do not doubt your ability to grow Tea Roses in the Highland glen you refer to, seeing that the soil is good and that you are well sheltered from the east. There used to be some excellent Roses produced around Perth, and no doubt there are still. Aa a winter protection to bush plants nothing can excel soil. If you have some nice sifted soil to put around each plant to a depth of about 4 inches to 6 inches you will find the basal eyes as sound in the spring as you could wish. Keep the plants thus moulded up until about April, or until you prune the plants, which would be about the middle of that month. Should the winter prove a very severe one Bracken Fern may with advantage be stuck among the branches of the plants, but this should always be removed at mild intervals. As regards Crimson Rambler covering a 7foot arch the first season, this could be done by procuring good plants, pot grown, having that length of growth. We should prefer plants that had been potted up from the open ground and that had been established in pots for one year. Such plants need not be cut back, and they will make a show at once. T. W. ,/.— Good climbing Roses for the greenhouse are Celine Forestier, Climbing Niphetos, Man^chal Niel, For- tune's Yellow, Reve d'Or, and Solfaterre. S. T. A'.— Pegging down is an excellent method of treating vigorous growing Koses. Plant them from 2 feet G inches to 3 feet apart, prune hard the first year, then the following year tie down the long growths parallel to the ground. Flowers will appear along the shoots. Later on young growths start up from the base, and if allowed to grow upright will blonm about a month later than the pegged down shoots. When the long ones appear worn out, cut them clean away and peg down young ones instead, but they will usually last two or three years. Beds of Roses so treated make a fine feature on a lawn, such kinds as W. A. Richardson, Alisttr Stella Gray, Gustave Regis, and others blooming most profusely. Last summer we saw a bed of Rose Clio treated in this way, and the whole bed was simply bristling with buds and flowers. Grace Darling, too, is amenable to this treatment. I ORCHIDS. Dendrop.ium Thyrsiflordm (A. J. JJowne). — It is one of the most common, yet one of the best and most useful, of the evergreen kinds, easily grown and very free blooming. The ground c jlour of the sepals and petals varies considerably, embracing pure white and various tints of flesh and rose colour. The lip is the same in all cases — a deep golden yellow that enhances the beauty of both the pure while and rosy tinted segments. It is a free-rooting and vigorous-growing species, and may with advantage be given fairly wide pots, the drainage being ample, never less than half their depth. The compost should also be used in a rough state, the peat being of the best quality and mixed with half its bulk of clean, fresh sphagnum. Newly-imported plants of this Orchid often arrive in such a condition, that to anyone unacquainted with the influence of a warm, moist house they would not seem of any value — not a green leaf to be seen on them, and the pseudo-bulbs shrunk and shrivelled out of all shape. X. 1'. /T.— Ca'logyne barbata is a most useful winter- flowering kind, first discovered by Gnfflth many years ago in Bhotan, and afterwards by the late Thomas Lobbon the Khasya Hills at .'5,000 feet to C,(»J0 feet altitude. Under cultivation it succeeds well with somewhat cool treat- ment, and will make a nice subject for either basket or pot, provided the drainage is well seen to. During active growth it enjoys a fair supply of water at its roots, but much less after its growths are matured. The flowers are produced upon erect racemes, and will continue in perfec- tion for a long period provided they are kept free from damp. //. W. IF.— Dendrobium Macarthia' is, unfortunately, rather diflicult to grow. Newly-imported plants, if they have not suffered too much in transit, are superior to those that have been iu cultivation for any length of time, and when procurable should be obtained. They will usually start away vigorously at once, and should, in consequence, be placed in pots or baskets, using a compost that will not require renewing for some time. The trouble with Den- drobium Macarthijc, as with so many other diflicult sub- jects, is to maintain a constant supply of fresh air without at the same time destroying the balance of the temperatuie as to heat and moisture. What it seems to require is a house dripping with moisture from February till November, strong heat, and an ever-changing atmosphere. THE GREENHOUSE. Begonia Bulbs {L. C.).- -The Begonia tubers, now quite dormant, should be laid in shallow boxes and just covered with fine dry soil, not exactly parched up, but with little moisture in it. They may be kept in any place that is not too damp, or the temperature too high, as the main object is to give them a perfect rest, for instance, on the stage in the greenhouse where a temperature of 45" to 55° is maintained. The commencement of the month of March is a good time to pot the tubers, which are best started in comparatively small pots, say, about 4 inches in diameter, and shifted on when required. A suit- able compost is equal parts of good loam and well-decayed leaf-mould, with some silver sand. After potting, the soil must be kept slightly moist till the new growth appears, when the water supply should be increased. The plants will then grow quickly, and especial care must be taken not to allow them to become pot-bound before shifting them into their flowering pots. Mix a little dry cow manure with the soil. As the roots take possession of their new quarters and the plants develop, liquid manure of some kind is very beneficial. The best is made from cow or sheep droppings, and it is greatly improved by a mixture of soot water (clear, of course). The young plants are sometimes, but not often, attacked hy aphides or green fly. Vapourising with the XL All Vaporiser will, however, effec- tually destroy them. J. E. Brough. — Next to the Poinsettia, Euphorbia jacquinffcHora is one cf the brightest subjects we have for this season of the year. It is more difficult to manage than the Poinsettia, requiring careful treatment through- out. The very slender roots are liable to be killed, either through drought or txcess of moisture. It is of the first importance to have strong cuttings to start with, and this can only be done by taking care of the old plants after the flowers have been' cut ; the plants are then rather shabby- looking and often get relegated to some obscure corner, 30 THE GARDEN. [January 13, 19C6. where they are apt to be neglected. A very few plants kept in good condition will give a lot of cuttingg. I'nlike the Foinsettiaa, the earlier in the year these can be taken the better. There is little difficulty in rooting the cuttings. FRUIT GARDEN. About Vines (K. S.). — The trellis in your vinery should be about 18 inches below the roof ; 8 inches is much too close. If you have lowered it to more than a foot away from the glass, no doubt that will answer the purpose ; if you have the trellis any closer than from 15 inches to 18 inches the leaves are almost bound to get scorched. The month of January is the best time to insert vine eyes. You can quite easily keep the shoots which were cut oil the vines at pruning time by inserting them in a cool, moist medium. It is even preferable to cut the shoots from the vines before Christmas, tie them in bundles with the ends inserted in the soil, and place them in a cold position until wanted. Better results are obtained from shoots thus retarded than from those cut from the vine just when required, and when the sap is beginning to rise. Now is an excellent time to cut ofif the shoots. In January you can put in the eyes. Diseased Vine Roots (S. J. S.). — We feel fully justified in inferring from the diseased appearance of the Vine roots sent that the border when made must have had mixed with it con- siderable woody matter, and that in the process of decay fungoid growth has developed. This would be, of course, very injurious to the Vines. Even if such were not the case there might have been included strong nitrogenous matter, such as blood manure, strong animal manures, or other ingredients which in time decaying have developed sourness and fungus. We strongly advise you to remove all the soil down to the roots at once, lifting and tying the roots up in mats, just keeping them damp, then adding to the lower soil a good proportion of wood ashes and old lime refuse, with some soot, well mixing it and making it fairly firm, then relaying the roots and surfacing with a similar mixture, adding also 1 pint of bone-dust to each barrow- load of soil. Make the surface fairly firm by treading, then give a gentle watering to settle the soil well down, and add a mulch of long stable manure, just a thin coating, to help keep the soil moist. An occasional syringing of the Vines to help keep the wood or bark a little moist also would be helpful. The wood ashes, lime refuse, and soot should help to sweeten the soil and keep it free from fungus. We do not clearly understand whether the Vine border is inside or outside, but if outside it would be wise to place some straw-thatched hurdles over the newly-planted roots during very hard weather or when heavy rains or snowfalls take place. If you refer to the planting out of Geraniums on the border for the summer, we should regard that as a practice to be strongly deprecated. If some flowers be needful sow such as Mignonette. Still, the border should not be so planted if avoidable, but rather give it a thicker mulch of long manure during hot, dry weather. S. J. S'ione.— Muscat of Alexandria can be grown in a mixed house and with late sorts, but you cannot expect such good results as when grown in a house where the best treatment can be given. The Muscat requires more warmth for setting the flowers, and of course an inside border. Plant the Muscat at the warmest end, and ventilate carefully when in bloom. The Muscat will hang late, so that the treatment given to the other late Grapes will be suitable. We do not think the old stools of Geraniums will do much harm if you keep them on the dry side when the Vines are at rest. You should start your Vines late, say, late in March or early in April. E. E. — The best plan to adopt under the circumstances stated is to reduce the number of young shoots now grow- ing on each branch to one or two by disbudding— that is to say, to the same number as would liave been left had the tree been pruned in the usual way while dormant. This will prevent bleeding and answer the same purpose as if the Vine had been pruned in the proper season. That part of the branch disbudded must not be cut off now, bnt left intact until the Vine is in full leaf, when it may be cut off and no bleeding will take place. As long as the weather remains mild the young growths on the Vine will take no harm without flre-heat being applied, but in frosty weather, unless you apply a little Bre-heat during night time, you will most likely lose your next year's crop of Grapes and possibly irretrievably damage your Vine. All the artificial heat necessary in frosty weather will be to maintain a minimum temperature of 40' Fahr. J. r.— Rust on Grapes is a fungoid growth, and the conditions favourable to its attack on the Vine are caused by injudicious ventilation in cold weather. It is also brought about by too low a temperature at night and early morning. Do not give too much front air on cold mornings or days, using the top ventilators more freely instead. During the season of growth have a little flre- heat all night, leaving on a chink of back air. The best way to kill rust is to burn sulphur on the hot-water pipes. The sulphur should be mixed with warm water to the consistency of paint, then smear the pipes with it. This should be done on two consecutive evenings. The pipes should be made so hot that one can scarcely bear to place one's hands on. The Vines should be dressed with Gishurst's Compound when at rest in winter. This will kill any spores there may be left. KITCHEN GARDEN. Road Scrapings for Heavy Soil (M. H. Weston). — The above are invaluable for heavy soils, and often can be had in large quantities at a small cost. We recently saw a garden where all the top soil had been entirely ruined by a large mass of clay having been carted on. To remove this was out of the question, but the best results have been secured by giving a liberal dressing of town sweepings, which are obtained in boat-loads at merely the cost of carriage. Many can utilise road scrapings and get similar results. These cost little or nothing, and are far superior tc masses of animal manures for clayey land. It may be impossible to get large quantities at one time, but it IS a good plan to treat a portion of the garden yearly, doing what is done thoroughly. In time such soil will be in excellent condition for most crops. It is an easy matter to store road scrapings during the summer, or at a time they cannot be placed on the land, using them at this season. Diseased Parsnips (M. F. 5 Nationale d'Horticulture de France. W. E. GUMBLETON. COLOURED PLATE NEW PLATE 1291. TUBEROUS BEGOXIAS. M* 'ANY new and beautiful tuberous- rooted Begonias have been introduced during the last feve years, some of them almost as perfect in contour and as deli- cate in colouring as a Camellia. The hybridist has so fashioned this flower that the tuberous Begonia is now one of the most valuable we have for the garden in summer. From July until October the handsome flowers, of various forms and innumerable shades of colour, are produced abundantly ; it is, in fact, only when cut down by frost that the tuberous Begonia loses its beauty. The varieties shown in the accompanying coloured plate are Mrs. Moger (salmon). Countess of Warwick (yellow and orange), and the Right Hon. J. Chamberlain (crimson). They were sent to us by the raisers, Messrs. Blackmore and Langdon, Twerton Hill Nursery, Bath, who grow this flower to perfection. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. January 23. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition and Meeting. January 24. — Croydon Gardeners' Society's Annual Dinner. February 13. — Royal Horticultural Society, Annual Meeting 3 p.m., Meeting of Committees 12 noon ; Horticultural Club, Annua) Meeting 5 p.m., Annual Dinner 6 p.m., Hotel Windsor. Lewes CShpysanthemum Society. The annual exhibition of this society will be held on November 14 and 15 next. — E H. Hallett, Hon. Secretary, 5:'i, Leicester Boad, Lewes. A summep show in Edinburg^h.— Much pleasure is expressed in Seoltieh gardening circles at the announcement in the report of the council of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society that a summer show is to be held in the course of the month of July, and that the event will occur in conjunction with the National Rose Society's show. The summer shows of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society were for years a recognised feature of the horticultural year in the North, and their cessation in 1889 was much regretted by many, although it was admitted that the council could adopt no other course. Since that time great improvements have been effected in several directions, and summer flowers have steadily gained in popularity. The council of the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society have thus decided to hold this show, with every right to anticipate the support of horti- culturists in Scotland and elsewhere, and, if the general public will also do their part, there is no reason why it should not be an unqualified success. The support of the National Rose Society is in itself of the highest importance. That society has justly earned for itself a good reputation, and its association with the National Horticultural Society of Scotland at this time will be an assurance to the public that nothing will be left undone to secure the finest Roses possible at the season. The show will be certain to be valuable as introducing to many Scottish growers the finest Sweet Peas, shown at their best, and at a time when they are of higher quality than can usually be exhibited at the autumn shows in September. The date is rather too near the provincial show of the National Sweet Pea Society at Ulverston on July 18, but the enthusiasm of the grower of Sweet Peas is quite equal to exhibiting at both the Edinburgh and Ulverston shows. A tatnous wall garden.— It may be noted in connexion with your reference to wall gardening that the moat interesting wall garden is (or I am afraid I must say was) the self-sown one on the walls of the Coliseum at Rome. At one time there were there 420 species of flora, in which 66 orders and 250 genera were represented There was a large and varied collection of both Graminese and Compositse, with plants rendered interesting in their connexion, such as the Rhamnus Spinea Christi, &o. Fig trees, the Ulmus campestris, &c., were no doubt unwelcome guests, but the stones of the Coliseum, which are not exactly pebbles, might safely have continued to offer hospitality to most of the others.— George Cadell, :?0, Murrayfield Drive, Edinburgh. Fruit tpee planting- in Fifeshire. — In coQiinuation of the series of dfmonstra- tions organised by the Technical Education Committee of the Fifeshire County Council, a demonstration of the planting of fruit trees was given on January 8, in the gardens of Mrs. Ramsay, Hope Park, Cupar. The demonstrator was Mr. George P. Berry, the lecturer on horti- culture to the Edinburgh and East of Scotland Technical College ; there was a large attend- ance of gardeners and others interested in the subject. Mr. Berry not only showed by actual practice the proper way to plant, but explained the reasons for planting so as to secure surface rooting. In the medium loam of the gardens at Hope Park he planted 4 inches deep, and each part of the planting process was shown and explained in a thorough manner. Rainfall in 1905.— At Freeland Lodge Gardens, Woodstock : So of days Greatpat Month. on which depth rain Jell, in 3U hours. Inches. January . . 8 . . 0 23 February 12 006 March ... 20 OS? . April .... 17 . , 033 May 3 .. 0-96 June .... 16 0 64 July 6 1 04 August ..18 1-26 September 8 023 October . . 7 0-33 November 12 0 70 December 11 0 28 „ , Total per month. Inch's. 5 . . 0 87 24 . . 0 54 14 . . 3 08 ID .. 197 31 .. 113 3U . . 4 22 1 .. 1-20 29 . . 4-62 29 . . 1 00 30 . . 0-96 11 . . 3 06 29 .. 133 Total ..^37 Total .. 23-98 Total rainfall for 1904, 26 37 inches. — Wm. J. Short. Roses in winter.— The Rev. David R. Williamson writes to us as follows from Kirk- maiden Manse, N.B. : "It may interest many of your readers to learn that yesterday (the 9ih inst.) I found several very fine flowers, nearly full-blown, on that beautiful climbing Rose Bouquet d'Or, generally regarded by rosarians as a greatly-improved form of Gloire de Dijon, which it certainly surpasses. The plants on which these flowers appeared have been growing steadily for many years on a sheltered but some- what shady south wall, at a considerable eleva- tion. In a similar situation the French Noisette, Aimes Vibert, about a week ago suddenly revealed a grand cluster of pure white flowers, at a height of 15 feet. As another illustration of the unique mildness of the season (which has caused the double- flowering Cherry to burst prematurely into leaf) I may state that in my own garden Scilla sibirica and the lilac Primrose are already in bloom. The assertion of Montgomery, that ' The Rose is but a Summer's reign,' is no longer true. But winter of late has been stead- fastly vindicating the truth of his other lyrical affirmation : ' The Daisy never dies.' " Lagerstroemia indica.— i saw in The Garden a few weeks ago a notice of Lagerstiamia indica. From my experience of the plant I believe it would prove hardy in our Western Counties and Southern Ireland. When coming to my present house, over twenty-five years ago, I found a large conservatory in bad condition, and needing especially new heating apparatus. It had, of course, been stripped of its plants by our predecessors, with the exception of some half-dozen planted out which they did not consider worth moving. Amongst these was a good -sized bush of Lagerstnumia. For three years the conservatory remained unheated, with a good deal of broken glass admitting wind and frost during the exceptionally severe winters of the early eighties. Then we decided to repair and use the conservatory, and ever fince the Ligerstrctniia has been "a thing of beauty," now over 20 feet high. I may mention that a climbing Heliotrope succumbed the first winter in the abandoned greenhouse, so the Lagerslra'mia is more hardy. Your many correspondents have been lamenting over the failure of Cosmos to flower last summer. I think it must have some- thing to do with the seed not having ripened properly the previous summer, as we have always been most successful with it till last summer, when although the plants grew strong and leafy they failed to produce a single flower. — SOSSBX. Silver - barked Birches. — Of the various graceful species of Betula in cultivation none is more conspicuous in early winter than B populifolia, which is also termed the Grey Birch, though that title fails to convey an adequate idea of its beauty. A handsome well- grown tree, between 30 feet and 40 feet high, in the Royal Gardens, Kew, displays the characters of the species admirably, and under a bright sun the bark of stem and branches has a glistening silvery whiteness which compels attention. The general habit of the tree is light and elegant, the tips of the slender branchlets, drooping slightly as in forms of B. alba, but it grows freely even in the shallow soil of Kew. In striking contrast is B. lutea, the yellow Birch, which has a peculiar dark polished metallic-like bark, and B. papy- racea is also notable near the first-named, with grey or whitish bark, and possessing an upright compact habit that is most distinctive. 'The beauties of the common Birches, as well aa their variations, are charmingly shown on Wimbledon Common, near the road from Putney to Wimble- don, and there are few places around London where such picturesque specimens can be seen. — R. L. C. Apple Court of W^ick. - Chiefly because the fruits are small, this Apple has been excluded from many recent selections of dessert varieties. Garden space is limited, there is a demand for novelties, and the collections grown have to be fashioned accordingly. Many prefer a dessert Apple of moderate size. Court of Wick possesses several characteristics to recommend it, for when well ripened the fruit is of rich flavour with a juicy crispness of flesh, and is in use long after Cox's Orange Pippin is past its best. The tree is of moderate growth, thriving in various soils and situations, and is a fair cropper except in the most exposed positions. I have grown it in both heavy and light soils with satisfactory results, and it must be included in that useful though limited class of disease-resisting varieties. There is reason to believe it is an old variety, and the late Dr. Robert Hogg determined it to be identical with seven or eight Apples grown under other names, but he never succeeded in discovering its exact history, though it was supposed to have been raised from Golden Pippin at Court of Wick in Somersetshire. — R. L. Castle. January 20, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 35 Belfast Chpysanthemum Show will be held on Tuesday and Wednesday, November 6 and 7.— J. MacBridb, 1, Adelaide Street, Belfast. ■Webster's Foresters' Diary is a most useful publication. Besides the pages for memoranda characteristic of every diary, there is other information that is of considerable value to the forester and gardener. There are notes upon afforesting waste lands, cost of forming planta- tions, work in woods and forests for each month of the year, rules for thinning, rules for tree planting, &c. It is a book that every forester, estate agent, or anyone having charge of woods or forests would find most useful. It may be had for half-a-crown from William Eider and Son, Limited, 164, Aldersgate Street, E C. "My Garden Diary for 1906" is the title of a dainty booklet issued by Messrs. Sutton and Sons, Reading ; it should be read by all those who believe that " doing things in good time is the main secret of successful gardening." " My Garden Diary " gives par- ticulars of all important work that should be done as each month comes round, and may be consulted with advantage throughout the year. In addition to the useful monthly reminders, " My Garden Diary " contains other valuable miscellaneous information, such as lists of bedding annuals, climbing annuals, winter - flowering plants, &c. The Horticultural Directory.— The issue for 1906 of this most useful publication has just been published. This is the forty-seventh year of its appearance. It contains the names and addresses of gardeners in all counties of the British Isles. The names of their employers are given, the nearest post town, the nearest railway station, and other information that is of value to all horticulturists. The contents are so arranged as to enable one to find the object of one's search with ease. Besides being a directory, this book contains a good deal of other miscellaneous information useful to all who have a garden. It may be obtained from the office of the Journal of Horticullure, 12, Mitre Court Chambers, Fleet Street, E.C., price Is. National Sweet Pea Society.— The sixth exhibition of this society will be held on Thursday, July 5th, in the Royal Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square, Westminster. The first provincial exhibition will be held at Ulverston on Friday, July 20th, in connection with the Ulverston Rose Show. In the report for 1905, the committee state that they have "never been able to chronicle such grand progress as has characterised the movement of the society during the now closing year. No less than 150 new subscribers have joined the society since the report for 1904 was presented. The committee ascribe this gratifying augmentation of the membership to two things : (1) the publication of the ' Sweet Pea Annual,' and (2) to the loyalty of the members. The success of the 'Sweet Pea Annual ' was immediate. It has proved the best advertisement that the society ever had. For the first time in its history the society joined with the Royal Horticultural Society, in whose hall the exhibition was held. The tiered staging, which was first tried and proved successful in 1904, was extended, and met with the highest appreciation from exhibitors and public alike. One thing only marred the success of the show. This was the failure of the Audit Class, in which the Sutton Cup, the Society's Gold Medal, and money prizes were offered. Saveral of the exhibitors failed to appreciate the importance of correct counting, and the judges were most reluctantly compelled to disqualify the majority of the competitors and withhold the Sutton Cup, Gold Medal, and First Prize. Steps will be taken to prevent such a contretemps in future. The society has largely increased its membership, but expenses have increased too." However, the committee are able to show a cash balance of £22 23. lOd. Full particulars may be had from Mr. H. J. Wright, 32, Diult Road, Wandsworth, S.W. Single-flowered early Chrysan- themum Dora Godfrey.- This is one of the most recent additions to the early-flowered single Chrysanthemums. It will be welcomed for several reasons ; first of all, its pleasing blossoms of a canary yellow colour possess a charm that other early-flowered Chrysanthemums do not, the blooms in this instance being fully 3 inches in diameter, and borne quite freely in elegant sprays. The illustration accDmpanyiug this note will give a good idea of the character of both plant and flowers, the profuseness of the display being well shown. It is a matter for regret that there are so few really good early- flowered single sorts at present catalogued, but the time is not far distant when a number of reliable ones will be forthcoming. With such varieties as the plant under notice there is not the slightest doubt that much will be accomplished by English raisers of new Chrysanthemums. This variety and others, such as the rich crimson- CHRTSANTHBMUM DORA GODFREY. coloured sort sent out two years since by Mr. H. J. Jones and named Mrs. Charles H. Curtis, will be regarded as the forerunners of the type. This last-mentioned variety contrasts splendidly with the canary yellow flowers of Dora Godfrey, and as they both come into flower at about the same time (early October) the two varieties should be extensively planted for outdoor displays in the early autumn. Plants of the variety under notice are of bushy growth, as the picture aptly portrays, and as they partake of a healthy and vigorous constitution they are well suited for border culture. Their height is about 3 feet. To Mr. W. J. Godfrey of Exmouth, Davon, belongs the credit of having raised and introduced this new sort. — D. B. Crane. W^etata and Sons' Primulas.— I hope you will give me space in your valuable paper to say how well Messrs. Webb and Sons' Primulas have done with me. Their stellata varieties are splendid ; the flowers are large and showy, and are borne on long stems rising well above the foliage. These plants are most useful for house decoration. Webb's Exquisite Primula is very good, with its large and beautifully-fringed flowers of various colours and perfect form. The plants are robust, and their large trusses of bloom are produced quite clear of the foliage. I should also like to say how fine Webb's Brilliant Single Petunias were with me last year. This is an excellent strain, and remarkable for the large size of the blooms and their great variety of colour ; the plants make a grand show either in beds outdoors or in the conservatory. — H. Watts (gardener to H. R. Franlin, Ksq. ), Yarnton Manor, near Oxford. " Flora and Sylva."— The December number of this beautiful magazine is, we regret to learn, the last of the monthly issues. In the future Flora and Sylva will appear as a yearly volume only. Princes Street Gardens, Edin- burgh,— A proposal has been made that the pavement of Princes Street, Edinburgh, on the side next the West Gardens, should be broadened to the extent at present occupied by the Ivy- covered slope, and that a wall should take the place of the slope. There is some difi'erence of opinion as to the efi'eot upon the gardens, and the scheme will hardly be proceeded with without full consideration. The corporation possesses a safe guide in the person of Mr. J. W. M'Hattie, the superintendent of parks, who may be trusted to give sound advice in the matter. Potatoes not decaying.— in reply to " G. H.," I must acknowledge that, not being a large grower of Potatoes, I have had no expe- rience of Scottish-grown "seed." Has he over- looked the excellent letter of " A. D." in The Garden of November 25 last ? If so, he cannot do better than turn up that issue and read "A. D.'s " experience. I have resolved to act upon the method mentioned by him of using unripe tubers for planting. My plan hitherto has been the very opposite, viz., to allow a few to remain in the ground long enough for the haulms to die quite down before lifting to store for " seed" another season. — W. B., Howsham, Lincoln. New Roses in Australia —Talking of novelties in Ruses, you can seldom know how one is going to turn out till it has been tried two or three years. Amongst those introduced three years ago. Lady Roberts, Souvenir de Pierre Notting, Frau Karl Druschki, Duchess of Port- land, Perle von Godesberg, and Mme. Vermorel have, in my opinion, proved themselves as dis- tinctly first-class and much above the ordinary. Lidy Roberts is one of those "pearls" amongst Roses that come consistently of a most perfect shape ; a divided centre is a thing unknown to it, and the colour, when half or three-quarters open, is something exquisite. Frau Karl Druschki is also a beauty, and undoubtedly the daintiest white Rose we have. With regard to Souvenir de Pierre Notting, I am not so enthusiastic, and I am of opinion that it is not going to do here as well as catalogues and imported descriptions have led us to expect. I have seen many good blooms of it, but all the same, I don't think it is going to be a Maman Cochet, or a Kaiserin Augusta Victoria either. Perle von Godesbarg is not distinct enough, and is too much like its parent, Kaiserin Augusta YictoTia..— Australian Garden and Field. Brighton and Sussex Horticul- tural Society. — in submitting the balance sheet for the past year, the committee have pleasure in reporting a profit on the year's working of £50 I63. 3d. Considering the loss sustained last year, this is especially gratifying, and they desire to thank the president, vice- presidents, subscribers, hon. members, and ordinary members for their kind support, with- out whica it would be impossible to produce three fine exhibitions, and to carry on the monthly meetings which have proved so beneficial to the younger members. The three flower shows have been up to the usual high quality, and the attendance about normal —William Balchin, Treasurer; George Miles, Chairman. 36 THE GARDEN. [Jantjakt 20, 1906- STOVE & GREENHOUSE. THE PERSIAN CYCLAMEN. THERE is no plant of moderate size that, when well managed, contributes so much to a floral display through winter and early spring as the Cycla- men. It comes true from seed in several shades of colour, varying from purest white to crimson. The best time for sowing seeds is November, or not later than the first week in January. The best soil for this purpose is a good loam, with one part leaf-mould and sufficient silver sand to ensure free drainage. Press this mixture firmly into pots or seed-pans, dibble seed about 1 inch apart and J inch deep, then give a good watering with a fine rose. After the pots or pans have drained, a good plan is to cover the surface with a thin layer of cocoa- nut fibre or some clean moss, as this checks rapid evaporation and keeps the surface free from moss. Place the pots or pans in a temperature of about 60* Fahr., and care should be taken to remove fibre or moss as soon as the seed begins to germi- nate, which it does in about a month or six weeks. Seeds not only germinate slowly, but also the seedlings develop most irregularly, a plant sometimes coming up long after others have made a start. Potting. — When some of the seedlings are large enough for removal transfer them to 22-inch pots, taking great care to keep the small eorm half above the soil, then place on a shelf as near the glass as possible to prevent the plants from getting drawn, in a temperature of about 60" Fahr. When the plants have made four or more leaves they should be ready for a larger size pot. Do not give them too big a pot, the middle size (3inch) would be quite large enough, as Cyclamen do not like to be overpotted. By the end of May they should be placed in cold frames. If the frames are too deep a good plan is to fill up with ashes to within 15 inches of the glass, this helps to keep a free drainage under the plants. Care should then be taken with watering, shading, and ventilation. Encourage as much growth as possible, and never allow the plants to become dry at the roots or they will soon lose their foliage. On very hot days a good plan is to give them a spray over about midday, and then again in the afternoon when closing the frames. This helps to encourage growth, and checks red spider and thrips. Towards the middle of July the plants will be ready for their final potting into 4j-inch or 6-inch pots. The soil for this potting should consist of a good fibrous loam broken up into small pieces, leaf-mould, wood ashes, sharp sand, and a little bone-meal. Some gardeners like to add decayed cow manure to the soil. This I would advise not to be done, for whenever I have used it I have always been troubled with maggots, which feed on the young roots, and the plants will gradually dwindle away and die. General Treatment.— After this potting put them back into cold frames, wide apart, so that the plants can get a free circulation of air. Keep them well shaded on very hot days and do not give quite so much air for a time until the plants have recovered from the disturbance. They will now develop foliage fast. Keep a careful watch for thrips and red spider, or the leaves will be soon disfigured. Fumigation with XL All will destroy all thrips, and a moist atmo- sphere will cheek red spider. Should flowers appear, remove them by taking hold of the stem and giving it a sharp pull ; never cut them off, for the remaining portion will die down and often cause the eorm to decay. Towards the end of September the plants may be removed to the place where they are intended to flower. An ordinary greenhouse temperature will suit them. If the pots are filled with roots give some liquid manure water once a week, and this will help thera to throw up their flowers. Seedling Cyclamen grown under this treatment I have had in bloom from the first week in November until the end of April. The Second Yeak. — Cyclamen may be grown a second year by drying them off moderately and resting for a time. A cool frame may be used for this purpose. Remove the lights on fine days, and only protect from heavy rains. After the plants have rested until the middle of June they should be shaken out of their pots and repotted into smaller ones and placed on a gentle hot-bed so as to encourage root action. After the corms have started into growth repot them into 6-inch pots. Use the same compost as advised for the final potting of seedlings, and give them the same treatment. It is not advisable to save plants after this age, as seeds sown each year will keep up a stock, and young plants are much to be preferred. Cyclamen when well grown are among the most useful winter-flowering plants we have. They can be used for several purposes. As pot plants they keep well in rooms, and are useful for table decoration if cased with Maidenhair Fern or any other foliage. When cut the blooms will pack and travel well, and afterwards freshen up in water. W. Dyson. Firlands Gardens, Svlhamflead. Name. When to Pinch the Plants. STOPPING AND TIMING CHRY- SANTHEMUMS. [In reply to " T. C."] In addition to those already given, stop and time the undermentioned as given under the respective headings : Japanese. Which Euds to Retain. Mrs. A. H. Lewis 3rd week in April ... ,1st crown Rev. W. Wilks Last week in March .Snd crown Geo. Lawrence Natural break Ist crown Cheltoni 1st week in April .... 2nd crown .T. Tl. Upton 2nd week in March . . „ Mary Inglis March 20 ,, Maynell 1st week in April .... ,, Mrs. H. Emmerton 3rd week in March .. „ Kimberley Mid-April ,, Mme. Gabrielle Debrie . .2nd week in April. .. . ,, Mme. Carnot Mid-April ,, Mrs. E . Hummell Last week in March . . , , Miss E. Fulton Natural break 1st crown Mme. Gustave Henry „ 2nd crown Maud du Cros ,, Edith Smith 1st week in April . . . ,, Vicar of Leatherbead .... 3rd week in May .... 1st crown Mafeking Hero Natural break ,, Sir H. Kitchener 3rd week in May ... ,, Nellie Pockett Ist week in April .... 2nd crown Duchess of Sutherland ..About May 12 1st crown Bessie Godfrey Natural break ,, Incurved. Golden Mme. Ferlat Last week in March . . 2nd crown Mrs. F. Judson 1st week in May ... 1st crown Charles Blick 3rd week in May ... ,, Mrs. J. P. Bryce 1st week in April . 2nd crown You had better commence the propagation of the varieties in the foregoing list without delay, so that the natural break may take place at the proper period. In all cases where the first or " break " bud has not developed by the third week in May the plants should be pinched forth- with. C. JACOBINIAS. The " Kew Hand List" of tender Dicotyledons includes several plants under the name of Jacobinia which were formerly classed with other families. All, or nearly all, are valuable bright coloured winter-flowering plants of comparatively easy culture. In most of them the flowers are borne in a terminal head or cluster, hence they must not be stopped too much, as a stout stem is necessary in order to flower well. The species in the " Kew Hand List" are Jacohinia chri/soslephana, whose rich golden orange blossoms are borne in a terminal crown. Introduced from Mexico by the late Mr. William Bull of Chelsea, in 1870, for some reason or other it almost dropped out of cultivation, till within the last half-dozen years or so it has become very popular. During a dull day in mid- December I know of nothing more telling than a group of this Acanthad. ./. coccinea. — A very old plant from South America, with deep scarlet flowers, borne in a terminal head as in many of the Aphelandras. It is well worthy of extended cultivation. J. ghieshreghtiana. — Under the name of Serico- graphis ghieshreghtiana, this is a very old friend, that bears during the winter a quantity of scarlet tubular-shaped blossoms, not in crowded beads as in most of the others, but in loose panicles. It came orginally from Mexico. /. magnifira. — This, which also has been known as Jacobinia carnea and Justicia carnea, is an old plant. Of J. magnifica, the "Kew List" con- tains the following varieties, some of which have before now been regarded as species, carnea, minor, pohliana, and velutina. /. Mohintli. — This species, which is very little known, has orange yellow flowers, produced from the axils of the leaves. J. penrhosiensis. — A popular hybrid between J. ghieshreghtiana and J. pauciflora (Libonia floribunda of gardens), and in general appearance about midway between the two. The flowers of this are bright red, almost scarlet. ./. pauciflora. — Long known under the name of Libonia floribunda, this is a valuable winter- flowering plant with red and yellow tubular blossoms. H. P. NOTES ON LILIES. LILIES IN 1905. (Continued from page .5./ C' DISEASE.— I alluded, in some notes in The Garden for October 7 last, to the trouble I again had with that horrible " Lily disease " this summer, but a few remarks here may not be out of place. The fungus attacked nearly the whole of the candidums, also a clump- of tigrinum Fortunei giganteum, and two small groups of croceum. As on former occasions, I was able by the prompt application of liver of sulphur (potassium sulphide) to arrest the progress of the malady, and to save nearly every bloom, though some of them were smaller and' less pure in colour than they ought to have been, and the inevitable removal of most of the stricken leaves did not improve the general appearance of' the poor things. When the flowering time was over, and as soon as the stems began to wither, I dug up the whole of the Madonnas, soaked them in a weak solution of the sulphide, smothered' them in flowers of sulphur, and replanted them in absolutely fresh soil. I am glad to say they are looking healthy and strong, most of them' with good tufts of leaves. Next summer I shall begin the watering with the sulphide (l,oz. to two gallons and a half of water) as soon as the spikes appear, or even sooner, on the principle that "prevention is better than cure." As far as I can judge the fungicide has no bad effect ou' neighbouring plants in the beds and borders. But this disease is a terrible and constantly recurring nuisance, and there seems to be no cure ■ for it except the drastic one of digging up the bulbs and consigning them to the bonfire. I have never had the sturdy and healthy croceum • affected by it previously. Apart from their temporary severe attack of Botritis, the tall- growing Tiger Lilies (tigrinums) were a brilliant success, and a smaller lot of T. splendens delighted everybody with their vivid colouring. I have planted another group of the big ones ; they flower so late and so freely that one cannot have too many of them. It ie to be hoped the disease will spare them in future, but who can tell '.' To the Lily grower no contretemps, no unexpected failure, seems impossible ! Lilies of the Si'ECiosuM group were by no means dis- appointing. Two kinds I had a few years ago- January 20, 1906. ] THE GARDEN. 37 from Mr. Perry, monatroaum and Aozikai, bloomed very finely, and were much admired. I am sorry to say, however, melpomene and album Kraetzeri have gradually dwindled away, and may be said to have " gone home." Last autumn I obtained some bulbs of the variety magnificum from Mr. Wallace, but I am going to grow these indoors to start with. I much doubt if the specioBum section can be induced to succeed out of doors permanently, in this part of the country at any rate, though careful planting and a good mulch of old manure certainly seem to pro- long their existence. They must be classed with the " unreliables," I fear, of which I consider longiflorum to be the worst, closely followed by L. AURATCM in all its glory. With regard to this, however, there may yet be a "golden ray" of hope from the bulbs grown from seed and cultivated in this country. Mr. Wallace tells us they have so far proved most reliable, and have given every satisfaction. The bulbs I had from him are certainly very fine, and their behaviour will be anxiously noted. A good word must be said for L. Brownii, which was miserable in 1904, but quite up to the average last summer. Most of the bulbs flowered, though none of them had more than two blooms on a stem. Three is my bulbs, though they bore but a single flower each, grew strongly and made a most striking clump in the Rhododendron bed. I feel doubtful as to the reliability of this fine species out of doors. And now, in sorrow and shame, I must end my long story with the once-honoured name of L. Pabryi. — For years it waved its yellow standard in the vanguard of the noble army of Lilies, once with thirty-nine perfect flowers on a single stem ; now it toils hopelessly along in the rear among the stragglers and camp-followers, with hardly a yellow blossom by which it may be identified. It is very sad, but then Lily-growing is full of sadness, and the best and only remedy for this is to forget the past and start afresh. Acting on this principle, I took the Parryi bed in hand the other day, dug the whole thing out down to the original foundations, carefully relaid the drainage, and planted the bulbs in new soil of a more sandy nature than before. As I antici- pated, I found the drainage choked with fine peaty soil, and I think this has had a bad effect on the bulbs, though they looked uncommonly healthy and sound. I hope they will respond to the treatment. I feel convinced now that they like a dry soil and situation, with perfect drainage, only requiring liberal supplies of water at THE MEADOW SAFFRON (OOLCHICUM ADTDMNALB). record so far ; it would be interesting to know what other growers consider a good result with this beautiful Lily. L Brownii leucanthum flowered considerably later than the typical species, but it is a newly-planted bulb, and its lateness may have been accidental, though I hope not. If my other Lilies had done as well as this one, I should indeed have had something worth looking at. Two spikes came up, each bearing a couple of extremely beautiful sweet - scented flowers of the Brownii type, and each furnishing subsequently some fifty or sixty bulbils in the axils of the leaves ; these bulbils are now grow- ing luxuriantly in pans in the greenhouse. Very few other Lilies condescended to flower at all in my garden. Superbum and Wallacei both vouch- safed a fair show of bloom, but the Panther Lily (pardalinum) was feeble, and several other sorts never came up at all. Sulphurenm had a poor little belated spike, which did not even carry any bulbils. Those I collected in 1903, however, have grown into nice bulbs, and I hope for some flowers from them next year. L. COLCHBSTBRENSE (odorum) may eventually turn out to be a success, but my first bulb, which flowered last year, only had one sickly bloom to two weak stems this summer. Newly-planted flowering time. In his "Alpine Plants" (a most fascinating little book) Mr. W A. Clark is clearly of the same opinion (see page 56), and we may yet discover the royal road to the cultivation of this most delightful Lily. With this hope to brighten the dark days of winter I will conclude what I was wrongly about to designate this "feast" of Lilies. A poor feast, indeed, I am afraid ; a table set cut with magnificent dishes, nearly all of which are empty. The Elms, Ycdding. S G. Reid. NOTES ON HARDY PLANETS. COLCHICUM AUTUMNALE. UNDOUBTEDLY there are other Meadow Saffrons which, as regards their individual flowers, surpass our native plant, but for general purposes it may be considered the most useful for naturalising in the grass of the wild garden or on banks by the waterside. The individual flowers do not last long, but to compensate for this failing a succession is produced from each bulb, giving a somewhat long period of bloom. A large mass of these flowers, grouped in the grass, produces a telling effect in late autumn. That they are also suitable for a border is shown by the illustration, where the flowers stand up boldly. In the bare border, however, they are more liable to injury and splashing by heavy rain than when carpeted by some low growing plants like Sedums, Acsenas, and other kindred subjects, through which the flowers can push their way. Flowering from September to November there are many varieties of this species, ranging from the rosy purple of the type to pale rose ; rosy lilac striped with white, and to pure white, as well as double purple and double white forms. These double forms are of greater substance, and the individual flowers last for a considerable time. Planted in rich moist soil where there is perfect drainage, the bulbs increase quickly, and many remain in the same place for years, producing an increased number of flowers annually. For the purpose of increase and for extending groups, the bulbs should be lifted as soon as the leaves have died down. The clusters of bulbs may then be separated, and planted again where necessary, as soon as convenient. A pretty companion for this Meadow Saffron is the dwarf er C. variegatum, with its chequered flowers. It is one of the most distinct in a genus where there are many names but few distinct types. A much bolder flower is the Caucasian C. speciosum, but this does not succeed so well in all places, and is more difficult to establish in grass. It prefers a sheltered place in the rock garden, and even there it does not increase so quickly as C. autumnale. The white form of C. speciosum is very handsome, and when it gets more plentiful will probably find a place in every garden. W. Irving. CORRESPONDENCE. The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspooidents. ) MECONOPSIS KACEMOSA. [To THE Editor of "The Gaeden."] SIR,— I beg to take exception to the description of this rare Poppywort in The Garden for the 16th ult. , page 384. The colour of the flowers, which cer- tainly varies somewhat, includes blue in several shades, which it would be practi- cally impossible to match in delicacy and brilliancy of tint. The rich vivid blue of the flowers is the moat striking feature of the plant. When standing in front of a group in flower, the irides- cent colour at once strikes the eye, and for a lime everything is obliterated. In the most deeply coloured forms a tinge of violet may be seen, which adds, if possible, to the efifect ; but a crude purple is never seen. The paler forms cannot be said to even approxi- mate a shade which could be described as palest lilac. This brings to mind the shade of colour known as mauve, but the conception given is as diflerent as possible from the lovely paler blue sometimes seen in flowers of Meoonopsis racemoaa. ... . , The culture of the Meconopsis is in its infancy, and it would be too much to say that this or that species will or will not grow in such or such a position. I have planted them in a variety of positions, varying from a shady moist peaty bog 38 THE GAKDEN. [January 20, 1906. hope to cover the whole with climbing Rosea and same time, not even the roots escaping. Solanum Wistaria, which grow well out here. I send the jasminoides, a really splendid plant, had not got photographs thinking that they may be of interest to those who are contemplating erecting a pergola. Frank E. Cartwrioht. Eyton, Claremont, near Gape Town. on its usual winter wrap, and was killed to the ground, but has since shot up from the roots in all directions. However, my experience with primulinum is apparentlynot different from that of several other people. M. Maurice L. de Vilmnrin told me that it had not proved hardy at Les Barres, and that he had lost it. In the Southern Counties it will, I do not hesitate to say, prove a good plant, but in the North and Midlands I PERGOLA IN CODRSE OF CONSTRUCTION GARDEN IN SODTH AFRICA. to a somewhat dry place in stiffish clayey loam on the open border, and have found 1. In moisture and shade the growth was most luxuriant, the colour of the flowers, especially the blues, were richer, and the flowers lasted longer. In this position the plants are worth growing for the sake of their foliage alone. The long tawny hairs of such species as M. Walliehii and M. paniculata held numerous crystal dewdrops or globules of rain-waterfrom morn till eve, and some- times the rosettes attained a diameter of 20 inches or .30 inches. The charming effect of tawny gold-tinted leaves reflected by thousands of dew- drops cannot be adequately described. Briefly, to succeed in the culture of Meconopsis Walliehii, and to have specimens 5 feet high bearing several hundred flowers, it is necessary to chnose a moist shady position, so that the air is sutBoiently cool and moist to prevent the total evaporation of the moisture from the leaves in even the hottest summer day. In moist positions there is some danger of the plants rotting in winter if the soil is too wet and much rain falls overhead. 2 In drier positions the growth was not so luxuriant, and varied in inverse ratio to the amount of sunshine and drought they were exposed to. The beautiful new species, M. integrifolia and M. punicea, will flower the first year if given a sunny position, but the growth is much smaller, and the plants are quite out of character. Nevertheless, it is possible to grow handsome plants of such species as M. Walliehii and M. paniculata in the ordinary border if the soil is fairly retentive and the foliage is shaded from the hot sun. Meconopsis racemosa is probably more impatient of excessive wet than any other species. While it would no doubt respond to a careful application of the wet treatment recommended for M. Walliehii, there is ample proof that it will succeed admirably under much drier conditions. For instance, the majority of the plants in the Cooperative Bees' Nursery at Neston were grown in pots plunged in a bed of ashes quite exposed to the sun. The handsome foliage in the background of the illustration of the Meconopsis racemosa on page 384 is that of the rare Rodgersia pinnata, a Chinese species with handsome panicles of bright rosy crimson flowers. E. Horton. COSMOS BIPINNATUS. [To the Editor or "The Garden."] Sir,— In The Garden for the 16th ult. I see Mr W. Botting Hemsley, in giving his experience question whether it would be permanently safe of this plant, asks others who may have grown it outside a cold greenhouse unless given protection, how they have succeeded. I have grown it for Worcestershire. Arthur R Goodwin. four years with varied success. The first two years the results were the same as your corre- „ ^ axtttxt t AaMTXTnimrc; spondent's. Our plants had stems as thick as a SOLAN UM .JASMINOIDLb. big broom-handle. The plants were raised under [To the Editor of "The Garden.] glass, and planted out when strong enough in Sir,— In the district of West Somerset the above good deeply-worked soil. In both seasons the plant abounds, more especially in the district frost destroyed them before any flowers appiared, where Somerset joins hands with the sister although plenty were showing. The last two county of Devon. Visitors during the corn- seasons I saw some plants in a railway station | menceraent of the stag-hunting season always garden in poor soil. This gave me the hint not admire the many plants that climb trellises, to treat them to so good a larder. The following porches, and even the outhoUses. In one little season the seed was sown at the end of March in ! village there are upwards of thirty specimens, a cold frame, and the seedlings allowed to develop The soil there is peaty, and that points to the slowly, pricking them out into shallow boxes in fact that peat should enter largely into the poor sandy soil. They were not moved into the ! rooting medium of this plant. One other point openair until frost was over, when they were taken I worthy of consideration is th out of the boxes by cutting them out in squares, ' climate is damp with roots intact, planting them in po- r soil on a dry, sunny border. Immediately they wei e estab- lished they began blooming, and continued to do so until destrojed by frost. J. Crook. .lASMINUM NOT PRIMULINUM HARDY. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir,— On page 320, Vol. LXVIII., I notice that a correspondent is advised to plant this new climber. My experience proves, however, that here on a sheltered wall, and where it did not receive the sun's rays until fairly late in the day, it was by no means hardy ; indeed, my plant, which had grown into a very fine specimen, was killed outright by the severe frosts of November, 1904. It is true that these frosts were unusually sharp and sudden for the time of year, and in consequence much other damage was done to thruba and plants which, as a rule, escape in an ordinary winter. Buddleia globosa, about 8 feet high fact that the for days together the vallejs are enveloped in fog, although, fortunately, at the flowering season the atmosphere is drier. I find that cuttings root quite freely outside in peat and sand, and that we are necer troubled with any insect pests, so in a naturally dry atmo- sphere, I would like to add, keep the syringe going during the growing season. Taunton, Somersd. W. A. Smart. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. NEW YEAR SAVOY. F the several Savoys in cultivation I can recommend this to anyone who has to supply a large quantity of winter greens in the New Year. It is of good shape, medium size, and the outer leaves _^ iare of a very dark green, but its chief qualifi- was kiUed completeTy° at the ication is its extreme hardiness. I have seen it o A GARDEN NEAR CAPE TOWN. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — Herewith I forward two photograph?, one showing the pergola, and the other the position of the pergola in the garden. The columns forming the pergola are 8 feet high and 9 inches in diameter, and were all made by our coloured gardener and myself We OBNEBAL view of the (iARDEN OF MR. FRANK E. CARTWRUUIT, (JI.AREMONT, NEAR CAI'E TOWN. Jamuary 20, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 39 here in the North buried in snow for several consecutive days and yet emerge none the worse, whilst some of the Ulms and Drumheads have blanched and gone to pieces when the thaw set in. I have out New Year Savoy in good con- dition late in April, and find it simply indispen- sable. It should find a place in every kitchen garden, whether small or large. Coatbridge, N.B. P. S. Folwell. SPINACH FOR SPRING SUPPLIES. A FEW weeks ago Mr. Wythes was advocating in The Garden the sowing of Spinach in autumn on a suitable border for picking in the spring. I was not able to endorse what he wrote at the time, but would like to do so now. Twelve months ago last August I made a sowing of Victoria Spinach on a south border with the intention of gathering in October ; but although sown early in the month the weather turned very wet and cold, so that little growth was made, and I was disappointed with the picking. How- ever, the little plants stood the winter well, very few dying, and immediately the warmer weather set in they grew away rapidly, and gave a very plentiful supply until the early spring-sown Spinach took their place. I had no idea until then of the hardiness of the round-leaved Spinach, as it is usually considered a summer vegetable, and grown as such where soils will allow. Another point worth noting is if Spinach, i.e., the round-leaved, will endure an ordinary winter on a suitable border or plot, it will give us increased frame space in the early spring months, of which we never have too much at that time of year, for other vegetables and plants coming on. Invicta. SELECT VEGETABLES FOR 1906. (Continued from page .:2.) Those who require Winter Salads should not omit the Witloof Chicory, and of Endives the large round -leaved Batavian is the most hardy ; the Green Curled is less hardy though more finely curled. Leeks. — The Royal Favourite is a splendid root, and of older kinds the Zyon and Mussel- burgh are good. Lettuces are always in demand. For early supplies Golden Queen, Earliest of All, and Golden Ball are very fine ; for mid-season Perfect Gem, Favourite, and Supreme, with All the Year Round in the Cos section ; Peerless, Superb White, Hicks' Hardy, and Bath for late use. During the past few years great strides have been made with Onions. — There are some very fine selections, but they must be well grown. For exhibition Ailsa Craig, Excelsior, Holborn, and Record are among the best ; and for keeping, sown in the open, such sorts as Bedfordshire Champion, Brown Globe, and James Keeping are reliable. Those who like variety in vegetables should not omit the useful Mercury, sown in April like Spinach, and for garnishing a aood strain of Parsley such as Mjatt's or Giant Curled. Pabsniips of late years have found more favour. The new Tender and True, a smaller root, is delicious. There is also a new Spinach well worth attention ; this is the Carter, it is good for all seasons, and a great improvement on the Prickly ; the Victoria is also excellent, but not such a large leaf or so early as the Carter. I omitted the Savoy Cabbage earlier in my note, but mention should be made of the new Earliest of All and the New Year Savoy, the first an early small variety, the last-named ore of the best late keepers. The Sugar Loaf is also very distinct. Tomatoes are now such favc^urites that there are many to select from. One, however, should not be overlooked, namely. Sunrise, a most prolific medium - sized, good flavoured fruit ; Winter Beauty should be included for late supplies, and the Ohiswick Peach for salad. Of older sorts Ham Green is good, and of the yellow-fleshed a variety that should not be overlooked, is Golden .Jubilee, a fine fruit ; I consider it the best flavoured of all. ToRNiPS. — The Carter Long Forcing, a newer root, is most valuable for early supplies. Snow- ball is one of the best to follow on, with Red Globe and Golden Ball for late use. Those who like Vegetable Marrows should not omit Im- proved Custard, a delicious small vegetable ; many would like this who do not care for the ordinary varieties. Potatoes. — I have omitted these for various reasons. To enumerate the beet much space would be required, and some of the new sorts I am unable to recommend till further trials have been given. G. Wythes. THE FRUIT GARDEN. A GOOD SUSSEX APPLE. w HAT man is there of this southern county who is not p'roud of our Winter Queening or Sussex Duck's Biin Why, to sum up its good qualities is to describe a model Apple. Some of us remember the time when as schoolboys we were attracted in September by its scarlet fruits, or later, in February, were tempted by their perfume to sneak up to the attic, where they were kept, to sample the mellow store. Those days are over, but this fine Apple is with us still. Fortunately, it grows freely in any soil ; but is to be specially recommended for cold stiff soils where others fail, and though it fruits freely in a small state, it soon grows into a fine standard. The fruits, which are of medium size and conical in shape, are for the most part of a bright red, with deeper red stripes, the [lortion most shaded being pale green, with russet markings. It is one of those con- venient AppleSj of which the largest can be used for cooking, the smaller for dessert. And though no one cares for a large Apple for the latter purpose, I am inclined to think that in the case of a good dessert variety, size and quality go together, provided both large and small Apples are equally ripened. The fiesh of the Winter Queening is of a yellowish white, but when cooked is brown, not that dirty brown which is one of the failings of Apple Lane's Prince Albert, but a rich golden brown, preferred by some to the pale colour of the Wellington. It is also a good baker, and although it has a brisk flavour requires but little sugar. It is at its best for dessert during February and March. It has often occurred to me when looking over fruit-rooms after the crop has been gathered, and again in early spring, that too many of the large soft autumn Apples are planted, and not nearly enough of varieties such as the one under notice. This, if gathere \ late, often keeps firm and good flavoured until the end of April. J. Comber. The Gardens, Nymans, Crawley, Sussex. CYPHOMANDRA BETACEA. (The Tree Tomato.) Although " The Dictionary of Gardening,' Vol. I., p. 422, describes this plant as a native of South America, it is found growing freely in the Sikkim valleys at altitudes varying from 4,000 feet to 6,000 feet, and is well known at Darjeeling and its neighbourhood as the Kalimpory Plum. There appears to be no reason for supposing it to have been introduced into India from South America. The parent plant from which the seed was obtained which produced the fruit I sent you would seem to be an Indian species. When visiting Soom Tea Gardens in the latter part of 100,3 Mr. J. T. Woodroffe obtained some seed which was .sown by me in his garden at Ware, LTplyme, Devon, in Feb- ruary, 1904. The plants which resulted bore fruit last year, and one which was in full bear- ing was exhibited at the Lyme Regis Flower Show and attracted considerable attention. The plants were grown in I.t inch pots in the vinery, and were 7 feet to 0 feet high. The flowers were in long pendulous racemes. The fruit, when ripe, was old gold in colour, egg-shaped, from bj inches to 2 inches long, and in clusters of six to twelve hanging within the umbrella-shaped head of large glossy dark green leaves, which are purplish when first expanding. Plants are now being raised from cuttings, which promise to be dwarfer in growth, and consequently more convenient where space under glass is limited. Treatment as regards temperature, (fee, is similar to that applied to ordinary Tomatoes. In its Himalayan habitat the Kalimpory Plum withstands such short frosts as there occur, but it cannot be regarded as hardy jven in the temperate climate of Devonshire. The fruits may be used as a salad cut up with Chili, and preserved in syrup are very palatable. W. F. Dark. Ware Gardens, Uplyme, Det'on. GISHURST COMPOUND AS A WINTER DRESSING. It may be considered late in the day to note the value of this valuable insecticide, but I do not think a note in The Garden— a journal that goes so thoroughly into fruit culture — will be out of place. It should be used as a dressing for fruit trees at this season, and it is quite as good for cleansing plants. It is a safe dressing and soon prepared. It keeps good, and the price is so reasonable when its efficiency is considered. Being composed of a good portion of soluble sulphur it not only kills the numerous pests which attack fruit trees and plants, but is also one of the best remedies for mildew and thrip. G. Wythes. APPLE BARNACK BEAUTY. This variety is a very late keeping one, being good for use in May, when young Apples are igain forming on trees. It forms an excellent standard, the growth of the branches being even ind straight. Free bearing, with medium-sized fruits of good form, dark green in colour, streaked with red, it should find a place in all gardens. The beautiful deep red markings become more pronounced as time goes by. The tree succeeds best in moderately rich soil, but it is advisable to top-dress annually until it is well established. Though classed as a kitchen Apple, it is good for dessert, too. Avon, APPLE GOLDEN SPIRE, Where space is not plentiful and an early fruiting bush is required, this variety is a good one to grow. The fruits turn to a rich golden colour several weeks before they are ready to gather, and the aroma is very evident also a long time before they are ripe. They are conical in shape, and are in season from the end of August to December. Even very young trees will fruit freely the first season after planting, but it is better to rub out any fl)Her-buil-i ^iid 40 THE GARDEN. [January 20, 1906. encourage aa much new growth aa poeaible during the first year, ae early bearing prevents the new growth. If the soil ia rich so much the better for the growth of the tree, but the ground should be made firm, and poor soil enriched. It is a valuable kitchen Apple. Bournemouth. Avon. ORCHIDS. ORCHIDS AT CHARDWAR. CHARDWAR, the residence of Mr. G. F. Moore, is situated on the outskirts of Bourton-on-the- Water, a picturesque village nestling in the Cotswolds. Among horticulturists Bourton is famous for the collection of Orchids ' ma^nificum, with bold shapely flowers, a decided chestnut-red tint pervading the petals I and pouch, the dorsal sepal being thickly I covered with rounded spots deep red-brown in colour. Dark and light forms of C. i. 1 Wallace!, insigne Mr. Godseff, Henry Elwes, ] Greenbank var., punctatissimum, Monk's-hood var., the name alluding to the formation of the upper dorsal, which somewhat resembles a monk's cowl in shape ; Perfection, Cale- donia, Amy Moore, berryanum. Admiral Togo, Westonbirt var., maculatum, a heavy almost black spotted form ; Cobra, bearing some resemblance to magnificum, but quite distinct, and Sylhetense giganteum, which received an award of merit last year ; the whole stock of this variety is at Chard war. This variety is far superior to the typical Sylhetense, and that is one of the most montanum magnificum and leeanum gigan- teum ; curiously enough, though, the insigne parent is among the dark forms. The hybrid, which secured an award of merit at the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting of the 5th ult., is a dainty shade of green, the broad dorsal having a wide margin of white, on which violet tinted spots are centrally placed, while on the green area they assume a brownish shade. "The whole flower is of a light but attractive colour, and considerably above the average in size. Blanche Moore is probably derived from similar parents, but partakes strongly of the insigne parent. C. vexillarium superbum, the finest of vexillariums, and the charming C. Nandii, call for mention, also a fine specimen of C. Memoria Moensii, with a dozen flowers open, the rich magenta-toned dorsal sepal displayed to the full, and giving an effect with which single-flowered plants cannot be compared. Batches of Oncidium Rogersii, Odontoglos- sum Uro-Skinneri and Vanda coerulea, show how well Orchids are grown here. Mention may also be made of a large number of plants of Dendrobiura PhalEenopsis schrijderianum, which were well grown and profusely flowered, and exhibit a wide range of colouring from the pure white of hololeuca, to a deep claret- purple. Tall growing Epidendrums of the Obrienianum section are grown both for use and ornament in suitable positions. A rare collection of Cattleyas, Laelias, and Laelio- Cattleyas are also grown, while a large house is given over entirely to Odontoglossum crispum and its varieties. Mr. Page, the grower, must be congratulated upon his success. Aeoutus. CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE VARIETIES IN THE GARDEN OF MR G. F. MOORE, CHARDWAR, BO0RTON- ON-THE- WATER, GLODCESTERSHIRE. formed by Mr. Moore. Some five or six houses are devoted to Orchids, which include Odontoglossums, Cattleyas, and Dendro- biums ; but Cypripediums are the feature, and among the Cypripediums are remarkable plants of C. insigne. Of these some 250 distinct and beautiful varieties might be enumerated, including specimens of C._ i. Sanderse and C. i. sanderianum. The size and strength of the specimens, and the number and beauty of the varieties, will doubtless be remembered by visitors to the Horticultural Hall on November 15, 1904, when a group of Orchids, occupying the entire end of the hall, was staged by Mr. Moore. For this group the large gold medal of the society was given, and the Lindley medal was recommended for culture. At the present season C. insigne and its varieties, together with the majority of the hybrids from them, are actually at their best, but even when out of flower the plants at Chardwar are pleasing, particularly to the expert. It is impossible to mention all the many forms in flower during a hurried visit paid the first week in December, but among the more noticeable varieties of insigne were Harefield Hall, a remarkable example of culture with seven flowers ; montanum popular flowers for market, and a favourite with Parisian and Continental florists. Kathleen and Agathae, two very handsome forms, were both conspicuous in last year's group, and near them were atratum. Bronze King, and Black Prince, all dark highly- coloured polished forms, and two notable specimens of yellow insignes in Dorothy and Laura Kimball, breezianum magnificum, a handsome form, the dorsal carrying its colour in an unbroken mass ; the flower had recently been cut from a plant of the rare C. i. bohnhoffianum. The basal half of the dorsal is deep olive-brown tinted with red, with a metallic lustre, zoned apically with soft primrose, faintly tinged with green, while the apex is pure white. Other forms noted were formosum giganteum. Commander Waters, expansum. Darkness, Cygnet, &c. C. leeanum, its varieties, and a number of hybrids from leeanum and insigne form a group little less noteworthy than the insignes. Leeanum giganteum, virginale, Purity, and magnificum were well in evidence, but ranking above them was the variety clinka- berryanum, which, except leeanum .T. Gurney Fowler, is still the finest variety of this popular hybrid. With the leeanums was Cypripedium F. H. Cann, a hybrid between THE ROSE GARDEN. ROSE MME. PLANTIER. A S the accompanying illustration well /% shows, this is a most vigorous and / % free-flowering Rose, the flowers / — * are pure white, full and very / \ beautiful, and they are most abundantly produced. It is one of the finest of all pure white Roses, and produces a mass of blossom that few other sorts do. Rose Mme. Plantier belongs to the class of Hybrid Noisettes. One grower classed it as " the finest all-round white Rose grown." We have seen bushes and standards of this variety from twenty years to thirty years old, and they were like huge snowballs when in full bloom. The only drawback is that, being a summer-flowering variety, the grand eft'ect produced is not enduring. Nevertheless, it is a Rose that everyone should possess. By very sparsely pruning this variety an immense bush may be speedily formed. It can be freely increased by cuttings. SEASONABLE WORK. Protecting Tender Roses — The mild December has almost caused us to forget about protecting our Tea Roses, but we may have severe weather even yet, and it behoves us to earth up all Tea und China Rose beds, also those Hybrid Teas which c"me nearer to the Teas than they do the Hybrid Perpetuals, such for instance as Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. A good earthing up around the base of each plant with burnt earth, or burnt garden refuse for preference, is almost in itself a sufficient protection, but evergreen boughs or Bracken Fern or Gorse should be at hand to place among the branches in case of emergency. January 20, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 41 Where one haa a, lot of standard and half- standard Tea Roses, it is a good plan to lift them all and heel them in under a north wall, with a covering over them such aa thatched hurdles if weather proves very severe. When transplanted late in spring the new growth escapes the May frosts, the result being a fine first display of bloom, with wood uninjured by the May frosts. Sowing Rose seed is a very fascinating part of a Rose grower's work. Amateurs miss an oppor- tunity of adding additional charm to their gardens by not having a number of seedling Roses on their premises. Even if such seedlings possess no great merit there are sometimes some beautiful single and semi-double sorts raised that would be delightful for decorative work when cut. One must be sure the seed is fertile, and to secure this it should be produced under glass or on walla out- doors. The seed is sown as soon as ripe, or at the present time. The pods or the seed must never become dry, and it is well not to burst the pods until we are ready to sow. Prepare some good compost of equal parts sifted loam and leaf-soil with a good sprinkling of sand. A plentiful supply of crooks in 3-incli or 4-inch pots should be prepared, then fill up with compost. Plunge the pots in a larger pot, putting in the vacant space some rotten coooanut fibre or very short manure. This is done in order to prevent rapid < evaporation. Place the pots in a greenhouse near the glass, and the seedlings should appear in about I three months, although some will not come np until nine and even twelve months have elapsed. Do not sow too thickly then it will not be necessary to prick oflf the seedlings, but when they are a good size, say, in about two years' time, they may be transplanted outdoors in May or June when the soil becomes warm. Roses u>id<:r glass must be gently forced. I do not advocate a strong heat at this season of the year, but it should be steady. The stronger the Roses break the finer will be the blossom. A little bottom-heat such as leaves provide is most helpful to plants just now. This would be far better than a strong top-heat. From 55" to 60" by day is ample, allowing this to drop 5" or 6° at night. Avoid excessive moisture just now. A slight damping of the paths and steaming the pipes is sufficient until the sun gains more power. Of course red spider must be watched so that when the foliage develops fast the syringe must be employed skilfully beneath it. Rambler Roses grown in pots should be pruned at once if not already done. Reserve as much as you can of the well-ripened shoots of last summer, and twine them around four sticks unless it is desired to grow them as pillars. A pinch of some good artificial manure should be given early, and, of course, later, as trusses of bloom are seen, the plants will require liquid manure once or twice a week. If a number of Crimson Rambler were potted up in the autumn and pruned back to a foot at the time of potting, such plants should be brought in now and given a gentle bottom-heat. They make lovely deco- rative plants it grown on gently. Porothy Perkins, The Farquliar, Perle des Neiges, Blush Rambler, Walthara Rambler, &c., are equally as useful, so also is Mme. N. Levavasseur, the "Baby Rambler" as our American cousins have christened it. Now is a favourable opportunity to have land trenched ready for new plantations of Roses in the spring, or if the land has been trenched recently then ridging it up will cause it to be in good condition for planting in March and April. The wind and frosts acting on this ridged land are of inestimable value to all heavy soil. Labelling Roses should be done now if this has been neglected. The pleasures of a Rose garden are much enhanced if labels are easily found. The "Acme" label is perhaps the best and most 1 enduring. Stakes for pillar Roses should be sharpened and tarred ready for use, and shorter ones prepared ready for supporting standard Roses as soon as they have been pruned. Planting Tea Roses against low walls is now largely practised. A quiet time like the present could be used in getting out holes 2 feet 6 inches deep and 2 feet over and filling up with good soil. The plants can be set out as late as April. P. ROSE MMB. PLANTIEB. 42 THE GARDEN. [January 20, 1906. GARDSNING FOR BSGINNSRS, BEDDING BEGONIAS.— Begonia gracilis luminoea will be a very useful addition to the email flowered dark - foliaged section which are now 80 popular for bedding. B. semperflorens compacta and B. sem- perflorens Zulu King are good bedding varieties of the same class, which may easily be raised from seeds now in heat, the plants will be large enough to plant out in June if helped on in heat. The seeds are very small, and the soil should be made firm and watered with chilled water through a fine rose. Just previous to sowing cover lightly with sand, and the pots or pans should be covered with squares of glass. We generally stand the pots of very minute seeds in pans and water from below by placing water in the pans. Blue Flowers in Winter. — There are none too many of these to be had in either stove or greenhouse at this season of the year. In the stove Eranthemum pulchellura makes one of the brightest of plants, producing a profusion of its deep blue flowers in constant succession for a long time. True, the blue flowers do not show up well at night, but, nevertheless, by daylight they are exceedingly pretty, making a beautiful addition to a stove in conjunction with Poinsettias. It will thrive well in a damp position, and the flowers last a fairly good time when cut, as the advanced buds will open in succession to the expanded blooms. Some Good Ghrysanthemumi. — In the variety La Gracieuse we have a Chrysanthemum that has many good points, and is sure to be heard of. It grows quickly, and is so easily grown that everyone should' try it. The flowers are clear pale rose, very delicate, and attractive. Even cjmparatively weak shoots produce really good blooms, a thing which few other sorts do. In onsfquence of their rapid growth the plants easily retain their healthy green foliage quite to the bate. A correspondent of MoUer's Deutsche Gurtner Ztituny considers this Chrysanthemum to be one of the firest he has grown. Two Chrysanthemums specially recommended in the I f.ame jjurnal for growing for cut flowers are the varieties Parisiana and Mile. Lucie Duveau, both bearing white flowers. Parisiana, if pro- pagated in March, and the plants are put out at it.e end c.f May, produces a profufion of beautiful white flowers in September and early October. This variety is perfectly hardy ; it may be grown in pots, and when the cold autumn weather arrives should be given the cover of a cold frame. Mile. Lucie Duveau can also be grown well by being planted out as advocated for Parisiana, or it may be potttd early in Sep- tember and placed in the greenhouse for flower- ing. If the weakest shoots are thinned out the plants will produce some excellent blooms. Both these Chrysanthemums should be grown where cut flowers are wanted in the autumn. The lYhiti Lay— Where it grows and flowers well there is no better garden plant than Lilium candidum, the White or Madonna Lily as it is popularly ciUed. In many gardens, however, it is, unfortunately, a failure and subject to the dreaded disease, which is so difficult to eradicate I know of several small gardens where this Lily was planted in a narrow, sheltered border facing east, in ordinary well-drained garden soil. Sand was mixed with the soil at the time of planting, and, needless to say, the bulbs have not been disturbed since. They are still in the best of health. Their SUQcess is attributed to the fact that the bulbs I SIMPLE HINTS. were healthy in the first place. They are in moist soil, partial shade, and are left undisturbed from year to year. Others may give this Lily precisely the same conditions and treatment, and yet have very unsatisfactory results, and thus prove, once again, how difficult it ie to lay down any hard and fast rule as to the culture of this beautiful Lily. The points mentioned above are, however, important. — T. Gooseberry Cuttings may now be inserted by selecting from the prunings medium-sized and straight shoots about 18 inches long, trimming off 6 inches from the point of the shoot and all the lower buds, leaving four good buds intact at the top end of the shoot. These can be inserted in lines about 6 inches deep, allowing 18 inches between the lines and 6 inches between each cutting, selecting a moist and partly shaded position. The soil should be made firm about them, and the difi'erent varieties labelled with stout labels that will not decay readily or be easily knocked out of their places. Where caterpillars and red spider have proved troublesome, it is a good plan to scrape away the surface soil from under the bushes and syringe the branches with a mixture of fresh slaked lime and soot, or a dusting of fresh lime and soot when the branches are damp. Where the bushes through age may be in want of a stimulant, some reliable artificial manure may be lightly forked in and a little fresh soil added to replace that scraped off, or, better still, a good mulching of farmyard manure. The spade should never be used among fruit bushes. Proxjagating Vines from Eyes or Buds. — Vines are easily propagated from buds or eyes at this season. There are other methods, but ihey are not superior inany way to the single bud system. 1 once planted a small house with cuttings rather more than a foot long. The cuttings were cut close below a bud at the base with a sharp knife 80 as to make a clean wound. Each cutting had ihree buds, and were planted in a newly-made border, only the uppermost bud being exposed. No heat was used until the buds broke into growth, and then the usual course of warm Vine culture was adopted. The Vines made fairly good growth, but not better than when the buds were started in turves, and planted out when some growth had been made. Planting the eyes in turves 5 inches square, by scooping out a small hole and thrusting the eyes into the cavity, made firm with some light rich sandy soil, packing the turves close together in boxes about 3 feet long and IS inches wide. We use these boxes because they are easily moved about. The boxes are placed in a close frame for a time where only the frost is kept out, afterwards heat is applied. We leave about li inches of wood to each eye, the bud being in the centre. The wood on the underside is cut in a slanting direction to give more space for the emission of roots. A good slice of wood is necesfary to support the buds whilst roots are forming, which is rather a slow process at first. Not much water will be required till roots form, but the soil must be kept reason- ably moist. The buds may burst without root action from the force stored up in the wood, but there will be no real growth till roots are forming. The Roots of Vines. — Grape Vines are very tenacious of life. They are often treated badly, but bad treatment seldom kills outright. I remember a case which came under my notice long ago when in the course of some alterations a houseful of Black Hamburgh Vines had been grubbed up and thrown on the rubbish heap, where they lay some time exposed. In the course of the building operations a new forcing house had been erected, and in this houee was a bed of tree leaves in a state of fermenta- tion. The gardener took the best of the old Vines, and, after doing the necessary root pruning, planted them in some open crates and plunged them in the bed of leaves along the front of the house. The growth, both of roots and branches, was remarkable. The crop was not heavy, as many of the bunches showing were removed, but the size of the bunches and berries and their finish was remarkable. This was due to the warmth and nourishment received from the leaf-bed, into which strong roots had worked in all directions. I had noticed the effect of a leaf- bed upon the roots of Vines long before and often since, and when Vines are in a bad way at the roots and there is no time to lift the roots and make a new border, a dressing of Thompson's or some other good manure forked into the I! THE JJADONNA LILY (LILI^^^ CANDIPUM). January 20, 1906.1 THE GARDEN. 43 surface, and on this a leaf-bed made deep enough to produce steady fermentatioD, the roots have come up to find out what was going on, have found the support they needed, and have taken a new lease of life, to the manifest advantage of the crop. Piid' and Scarlet Thorns. — There are no more handsome trees for park planting than the bright- flowered Thorns set in open group?, breaking out occasionally into single specimens wherever colour is wanted. Thorns associate well with other trees to fill in the foreground, or in the open glades where taller trees are inadmis sible. The ground should be well broken up before planting takes place, and the trees securely staked and properly guarded from cattle or sheep. The trees should be pruned back for several years till the heads are well furnished with branches, and then left to grow naturally. I am acquainted with a park that was planted in this way some thirty years ago, and now, when the Thorns are in blossom, people go for miles to inhale their fragrance and enjoy their brightness. From the result of early pruning the trees are now perfect pictures of spreading, weeping growth. There are a few double white and scarlet varieties, but the greater part are single-flowered. Rhododendron-i and Lilies. — It is useless plant- ing Rhododendrons or Azaleas in a limestone or chalky soil, but where lime is not in excess peat is not an absolute necessity for them. Of course, they grow luxuriantly in peat, and so they do in many places in the Midland Counties over the old red sand stone, in beds of alluvial soil on the banks of lakes and rivers, and in old woods well stored with vegetable matter from the decay of leaves, &o. When planting many years ago in Sussex, where the natural subsoil was heavy clay, by digging out the clay, burning some of it, and mixing part of the burnt material with old turf, leaf-mould, old cow manure, and sand, we found groups of Rhododendrons and Azaleas grew freely and flowered well, and the groups of Lilies planted among them flowered well also. The expense of preparing the beds was not great, as the materials were at hand. Groups of Hollies. — I have often wondered why planters neglect the Hollies so much. Those who do not know the better kinds of Hollies have no idea how effective they are either in groups or occasionally as single specimens on the lawn or in the front of the shrubbery. For hedge planting the common green prickly-leaved Holly is best, and makes the best fence, but young plants from 1 foot to 3 feet high are the most suitable. I have seen Holly hedges which have been obtained from sowing seeds in February, after they have lain in a heap of sand for a year to soften the cuticle. It is a slow process, but good hedges result. The best time to transplant Hollies is just before growth begins in May, though young plants may be moved at any lime if the work is done carefully. There are no means of distinguishing the sexes of Hollies till they bear fruit or flowers. The better kinds of Hollies are usually grafted on the common green kind, but longer lived trees are obtained by layering or striking cuttings under glass iu September. This process is a slow one at first, but when the cutting is rooted growth is rapid, and there is no fear of later failures. The cuttings should be selected from the upper part of the trees. Winter Cherry — How very useful and attrac- tive for arranging in vases are the stems of the Winter Cherry (Physalis Franchetti), bearing an abundance of their brilliant scarlet calyces or "lanterns." They need no water, and the calyces do not lose their bright colour for months. If some sprays of Honesty are arranged with them the decorative effect is improved. I know of nothing more useful or more attractive for brightening a room during winter. They need dusting occasionally, but that is all the attention they require. A Valuable Room Fern. — Oae of the Ferns that almost always grows well in a room is Pteris tremula, large plants of which may be bought for sixpence. Great care should be taken of Ferns when they are first bought, for often they have been grown in a much warmer atmo- sphere than that of an ordinary room, and conse- quently, if placed in a draught or near the window, the young fronds quickly wither and eventually die. If the Fern is bought at this time of the year, it should be kept in a warm corner of the room for a week or two until it has become inured to the cooler atmosphere. When once it has done this there will be no more diffi- culty with it. In the winter this Fern does not require a great deal of water, but in summer the soil quickly dries, for it is usually full of roots, and probably needs water every other day. In hot weather it is advisable to stand the pots in which Ferns are grown in saucers of water, but at this time of year this is not necessary. A Good Room 'Plant. — One of the most orna- mental and at the same time one of the easiest to grow, if only ordinary care is taken, is the Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria excelsa). I know of a plant that has been growing in the window of a room for five or six years. Eich year it develops a whorl of its elegant leaves, while retaining the old ones quite down to the base of the stem. This plant is not so susceptible to cold as some of the Palms are. Providing it is potted at first in good turfy soil, containing some silver sand, and watered only when the soil appears to be getting slightly dry, it will thrive. Of course the soil must not be allowed to become quite dry bafore being watered ; this would can e the same result as keeping the soil continually wet, namely, the loss of the lower leaves. GARDENING OF WEEK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. HARDY FLOWERING DECIDUOUS SHRUBS having had all dead flowers and seed-pods removed, and all weak growths out out after flowering, very little pruning will now be necessary beyond thinning the growths so as to admit plenty of light and air. One often sees Laburnums, Spirteas, Weigelas, and Lilacs with seed-pods left to ripen and decay, giving the plants an untidy appear- ance, and also exhausting them. Any such shrubs should now be pruned. Old exhausted wood and all weak growths should be removed. Shrubs such as Deutzias, Weigelas, and Guelder Roses, that have a tendency to push up strong growths from the base, should be encouraged to do so ; but in the case of Lilacs suckers and bottom shoots should be removed. After all prunings are gathered up, the shrub borders or beds should be mulched liberally with stable manure rather than dug, which is generally labour wasted and injurious, mutilating as it does most of the valuable fibrous roots. Rhododendrons and all kinds of AzUeai, Kalmias, Andromedas, Pernettyas, hardy Heaths, and Menziesias would be greatly benefited by a surfacing of fresh peat or leaf- mould ; these plants being surface rooting, it is of importance that this should be done annually. Yew Hedges frequently present a rusty appearance at this time of year, which points to soil exhaustion. If given a liberal top-dressing of good farmyard manure they will quickly respond by returning to a beautiful deep green colour. Collect all prunings of trees and shrubs. with fruit tree prunings and all the available wood into a suitable place for burning. The wood ashes should be stored away in a dry place for future use in the flower garden. Anemones of the St. Brigid, fulgens, and coronaria section that were planted in September and October, owing to the open weather experienced during the close of the year, have been growing freely, and will soon be giving us a few flowers. A few blooms of the St. Brigid were picked here on Christmas Dxy. Aiioltier batch of roots which have been kept dry may now be planted. A rich sandy loam suits this plant admirably. It requires to be taken up every year and thoroughly dried. It is a good plan to make three plantings, at intervals from September to March, to give a suic^esion of bloom. Give them a change of soil, as if planted in the same bed for two years in succession they always deteriorate. The Aldborough Anemones, or what are known as Nelson's variety of fulgens, are stronger than the type. The flower-stems grow to the height of from 18 inches to 2 feet. G. D. Davison. Westioick Gardens, Norwich, ORCHIDS. CYPRiPBDin:M INSIGNE AND VARiEriES. — From an amateur's point of view no Orchid is more pleasing than C. insigne and its numerous varieties. The plants are easily sown, and last in flower from the beginning of November until after Christmas. Now that the flowering season is over they should be put in order for the growing period. Some plants which were repotted last year will only require the surface compost renewed. This should be done by first pricking out the old compost between the roots with a pointed stick, taking care not to injure any during the process, and then resurface with fibrous peat and moss. Plants that need repottii] g should be pushed out of the pot with a stick put through the hole at the bottom. I find less injury is done to the roots by this method than by turning them out in the usual way. If the compost in which they have been grown is more than one year old, shake it away from the roots, and replace it with new compost, working some crooks vertically between the roots before fixing the plant in its new por. The compo-t should consist of two parts fibrous loam broken into lumps about the size of a walnut, and one part fibrous peat and chopped sphagnum moss. Small crocks and coarse silver sand should be used freely during the process. When preparing the pot always select a clean one, and place one large crock at the bottom and a few smaller ones over it ; about as many as one would use for a Geranium will suffice. Then place some of the rough material over them, and add some small crocks and sand. Then the plant should be put into position and the compost worked around the roots, and more small crocks and sand added to ensure good drainage. Prick iu a few heads of moss on the surface, which when finished should be just below the rim of the pot. If large specimens are required divide the growths into three or more clumps according to the size, and leave a space in the centre. This will encourage new growth from the old back ones, which other- wise would have decayed. Temperatdrb. — For some time after the plants have been repotted the temperature should not be allowed to fall much below 60", but late in the year, when the buds are showing, the cooler they are kept within reason the better, as this tends to give the flowers a better colour. Watering. — For about two months the newly- potted plants will require careful watering, for if over watered at this period the roots will decay, and the result will be a failure. Careful observa- tion is necessary because the new surface material often appears dry, while underneath the compost is moist enough to last another day or two ; just sufficient water should be given to keep the compost moist. 44 THE GARDEN. [January 20, 1906. Cypbipedidm lbeanum, C Act.-eue, C. nitens, &c , are hyhrida of C. insigne, and are very useful because they come iato flower when C. insigne is passing out of flower. Tliey require much the same treatment as previously advised. C. FAIRIBANUM promises to be very plentiful, and I find this does well in the C. insigne house with rather less loam in the compost, otherwise the treatment is the same. The same applies to C Niobe, C. vexillarium, and C arthurianum, which are hybrids of C. fairieanum ; also to C. Boxalli, C. purpuratum, and many others too numerous to mention. W. H. Page. Chardivar, Bourton-onthe-Water, Qloucester. fRUIT GARDEN. Tratning, Nailing, and Tying Wall Treks. This should be started soon after the pruner has got to work. The principal point in training fan-shaped trees is to regulate and lay out the main branches first, following with the minor branches and young wood. If this is done properly, each branch and shoot will point in an outward direction. Allow plenty of room in making ties, renewing shreds where necessary. Nothing is equal to the Willow for tying the stronger and heavier branches to the walls. If twine be used, insert a piece of shred or other protection where extra pressure has to be Ufed in bringing the branch to its proper place. Shreds half an inch wide are suit- able in most eases, and they should be cut into lengths to suit, doubling in one of the ends, and fastening neatly with the nail The young shoots must be pulled into their position by the shred, and not pushed upwards or downwards with the nail. The nails should be arranged alternately, as near as possible, on each side of the shoot. Remove all old nails and shreds not in use, gathering ihem into a box or basket, to be after- wards burnt. The nails may be used again. In Tying to Wiris the same precautions as to slack ties must be carefully observed. Do not place a tie to the tip of a young shoot to draw it out straight, or it may be strangled, but put a twine, stretching from wire to wire, and fasten as if to the wire. Pass the tying material twice round the wire before securing the branch or shoot. Start on that side of the wall least exposed to the wind. Apricots, — These ought to be pruned with a view to keeping the spurs as short as possible, as the nearer they are to the wall the better. The branches of Apricots have a tendency to die ofif, and it is generally admitted that this is owing to an exceEs of vigour in the growth. It would be well to avoid this by timely root pruning or replanting, adding to the soil a quantity of lime rubbish from an old building. Few trees benefit more from a surface mulch of manure than Apricots. Where the trees are subject to gumming or branch perishing to any great extent It is advisable to procure young stock from seed rather than from grafting or budding. The variety Moorpark is generally admitted to be the best all-round variety, as well as a suitable parent from which to rear seedlings. Forcing Strawhebriks — Sucoeesional batches of these fhould be introduced periodically into the structures where the conditions are favour- able for a gentle start into growth, remembering that as the season progresses fewer plants will meet the demands lor fruit, and that the time necessary for the fruits to mature will become gradually fhorter. Select the plants with the best developed crowns, leaving the weaker ones for later forcing. The first condition necessary to success is a well-rooted, well-developed crown, and with tuch plants no bottom-heat is required. A temperature ranging between 4.5" and .55" will do to begin with, gradually raising it till the plants begin to fhow flower, when they should be removed to a light and airy structure, and kept near iheglafs, in a temperature of from 6.5° to 70°. Care should be taken at this point not to allow the roots to become too dry, or a bad set will be the result. The opening flowers should be brushed over with a camel-hair brush to fertilise them, and when set thin out the fruits, leaving not more than six of the strongest to each pot. Pines. — Ripening fruit should be kept dry at the roots. If it is necessary to keep the ripe fruits over for any coneiderable time, it is best to cut them as soon as ripe and hang them up in a cool and dry fruit room. Look over the stock and select the most promising plants for fruiting from May onwards ; only those with their growth well matured and showing thickening at the collar should be chosen. Plunge them to the rim of the pots in the bed of the fruiting house, adding some fresh plunging material. Give the plants a good soaking of water, and keep the soil moderately moist till the plants show for fruit. A bottom heat of 85° and an aerial temperature of 70° will be found satisfactory, giving a little ven- tilation when the temperature rises to 80° with sun heat. Maintain a moist atmosphere. Thomas Wilson. Glamis Castle Gardens, Olamis, N.B. KITCHEN GARDEN. MnsHROOMS. — Fresh horse manure, with the greater part of the litter shaken out, is the best material for making new beds. Collect the manure each morning until enough has been got together to make the bed, putting it into a shed, or any place where it can be protected from the rain. Then pile it into a heap to ferment, and to get rid of the rank ammonia, turning it at intervals of two or three days until in a proper condition for making the bed. If allowed to remain too long before turning, too great a degree of fermentation takes place, with a corresponding loss of ammonia. The bed should not be less than 1 foot in depth at the front, with a rise towards the back of about li inches, and I believe that better results are obtained from a sloping bed than from a flat one. Beat or tread the material firmly together, and when the bed is made the required size, leave it until the heat has declined to about 80", when it may be spawned. Break the spawn into pieces of IJ inches fquare (very small pieces or crumblings should be avoided), and insert them in the bed to a depth of I'r inches, in lines 7 inches or 8 inches apart, and 6 inches apart in the line, covering the spawn with the material taken out. I prefer inserting the spawn in lines, especially in the case of big beds, as then no part of the bed gets missed. Cover with a good loam — which should have been previously warmed — to a depth of 2 inches, making it firm with the back of a spade. Mushrooms may be expected in from four to six weeks after spawning ; it depends in a great degree on the warmth of the bed. Beds in bearing should not be allowed to get dry before watering with tepid water. A handful of salt to 2 gallons of water acts as a stimulant to beds showing signs of exhaustion. The temperature of a Mushroom house should not exceed 60", with a minimum temperature of 50". Syringe the walls and floor twice daily. Rhubarb. — Where the supply of Apples is running short forced Rhubarb will soon be in demand. If not already done lift suitable clumps, exposing to frost if possible. A Mushroom house is a good place for forcing Rhubarb ; I have also used old sugar-barrels cut to a size to allow of their being placed under a stage in a warm house, and covered over to keep away the light, covering the roDts with leaf-mould or old Mushroom-bed material. Chicory and Dandelion. — Chicory and Dan- delion roots may be lifted and placed in a warm dark corner or in the Mushroom house. Where salads are in great demand the young leaves are much appreciated. Onions. — Where large Onions are required sow now some Ailsa Craig or any other approved variety in seed boxes, using a light compost and placing the boxes in a temperature of about 55". Broad Beans. — Broad Beans for planting out in March may be sown now in pots of 5 inches diameter. Beck's Dwarf Green Gem I find very suitable for this kind of work. French Beans in bearing will require plenty of warmth ; see that the growths are supported in time by twigs, and syringe twice a day. J. Jaques. Bryanston Gardens, Blandford. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Ansiveps.— TAi; Editor intends to make THE Gasdeh helpful to all readers who desire assistance, -no matter what the branch of gardening may be, aTvi with that object toill make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tions should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EDITOK of THE Oarsen, so, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters on business should be sent to the PiTBLIfiHEB. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to cmy designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Le^al Points. — We are prepared to answer questions of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and forestry. The questions should be as clear and explicit as possible. Answers wiU be found in a separate column headed ''Legal Points." FLOWER GARDEN. Gladioli (M. B. 4.).— Whether the Gladioli will pass safely through an ordinary winter depends somewhat upon how deep they are in the ground ; if 5 inches deep a good covering of the leaves would meet the case. Frequently they sufi'er through the old stems. These, if out ofl^at the ground level in the ordinary way, form a ready means of wet reaching the newly-formed corm. By twisting the old growth round and first laying it upon the soil over the position occupied by the roots you will thus safeguard them. Then you may put on a good covering of the leaves, and if you have these in plenty we would certainly prefer them to the seaweed, especially if this be but freshly washed up. Whether the salt is likely to be harmful depends entirely on its amount. But if you first employ leaves there will not be the necessity for a large addition of the seaweed, the salt from which would then scarcely reach the roots in question. Sweet Peas (T. If.)— Sweet Peas are quite hardy, and you might have sown them outside last autumn. They would then have flowered earlier than those sown in the spring. You should have trenched the ground last autumn, putting in plenty of farmyard manure. Still, you may do this at any time now providing the land is not too wet. If it is very wet, you must wait until it gets drier. Sweet Peas are usually sown out of doors in the latter half of March. You would gain nothing by sowing earlier, for the ground is oold. As you particularly wish to have some early ones, you had better grow them in large pots or tubs in the greenhouse. The soil must be rich, for the Sweet Pea is a gross feeder. Sow the seed singly in small pots, and keep them close to the glass for a few weeks after they germinate, so as to make them strong and sturdy. See that the pots or tubs are efficiently drained, cover the drainage with rough turfy soil, and fill the pots to within an inch or two of the rim with half turfy loam and half well-decayed farmyard manure, thoroughly mixed. When the seedlings are, say, 8 inches high, plant them in the tubs about 3 inches apart. Give them all the light and air possible — both are most important; the Sweet Pea is hardy. You would need to grow a large quantity to make it worth your while to send them to maiket ; if you have only one greenhouse, it probably would not pay. January 20, 190S.] THE GARDEN. 45 In addition to the sorts you have, grow Henry Eokford, Bolton's Pink, Dorothy Eckford, David R. Williamson, and Miss Willmott. The Twelve Bist Sweet Peas (Sweet Pea). Queen Alexandra, Henry Eckford, Helen Lewis (Coles), John Ingman, Mrs. Hardoastle Sykes, Dorothy Eokford, Roraolo Piazzani, Hon. Mrs. E. Kenyon, Black Knight, Lady Grizel Hamilton, Countess Spencer, and Evelyn Byatt. Twelve good exhibition sorts are Scarlet Gem, Dorothy Eckford, Romolo Piazzani, Countess Spencer, Black Knight, Hon. Mrs. E. Kenyon, Lady Grizel Hamilton, King Edward VII., Miss Willmott, D. R. Williamson, Jeannie Gordon, and Mrs. Walter Wright. Ivy fob Covering House (H. E. 8.). — The wood extending trellis, usually of Swedish make, is in several sizes, and an average price in Eng- land is about lOd. per foot super when closed. Among the larger stock sizes are those measuring 24 feet by 6J feet and 2J feet by 7 feet, these when open covering rather more than 16 feet and 17 feet respectively. It is quite possible that prices and sizes may vary. Such a trellis would be quite suitable for the Ivy, which will not cling satisfactorily to the cement walls. The Ivy should be liberally planted at the base of the building so as to obtain its start from the ground. Violet Plants Dying Orr (E. H. 8.). — For your cold frame to rest upon 1 foot deep of manure will be sufficient. The base of manure should be larger than the frame all round by 1 foot. The manure used should be fresh and of a strawy nature (not decayed), and if leaves are available add a good proportion to the heap, mixing well together and treading the heap firm before the frame is placed on. Next have ready some turfy loam, break it up with the spade and pass through a sieve, IJ-inch mesh. To a barrow- load of this add half a barrow-load of leaf-soil and half a gallon of quick-lime, mixing all well together, and place in the frame 7 inches deep. If these materials are not available then use ordinary garden soil, adding a gallon of lime to each barrow -load of soil. This will bring the surface of the soil within 10 inches or 1 foot of the glass. The plants must be planted firmly in the soil about 6 inches apart and given a good watering. They will not require much water for some time afterwards. Keep them cool always, but protect from hard frost, and give plenty of air on all favourable occasions. J/is5i)rt7*&i/sAire.—MaImaiaon Carnations should certainly not be syringed during the winter months, a remark that applies with equal force to the other sections. At this season, when in a fairly quiet state, they need very little water, and a free circulation of air whenever possible. Good sturdy plants 8 inches to 10 inches high at the present time should flower well next summer. Gekanicms not Flowering (Bi'ondM'ad'c).— There can- not be very much wrong with your treatment if you get the plants to tear buds. Perhaps the soil is too rich, and so the plants make gross growth instead of firm shoots. Overfeeding with manure would have the same effect. The plants should have as much air as possible. There must have been something wrong with the roots for the buds to fall off as soon as the plants were housed, unless you used very strong manure. An application of this would, of course, make the buds fall. We are inclined to think that the plants were not really well rooted when the buds began to form, and should advise you to root the cuttings earlier another year. Unless the plants are thoroughly well rooted you cannot expect them to bear the burden of flowering. TREES AND SHRUBS. Box Hedge with Bkown Foliage {W. Eedge). — The foliage sent was badly infested with scale, and we have no doubt this troublesome parasite is the cause of the foliage appearing so unhealthy. The scale may be, and no doubt is, encouraged by a rather starved condition of the roots. Our opinion is that a good hard cutting in would greatly benefit the hedge, but it would appear very unsightly for a time. When new growth com- mences give the plants a sprinkling of soot and fome well-decayed manure, taking care also to dig up the soil around the hedge, and avoid going deep enough to disturb the roots. The manure could act as a sort of mulch, or you might lightly turn it in under the soil. It may be that the subsoil is in a bad condition, and that this is causing the trouble. You can partly remedy this by putting some drainage down parallel with the hedge, if you are convinced the drainage is bad. Shrubs on Sand (S. S.).—li your deep red sandy soil, which is, perhaps, poor, be fairly deeply worked and liberally manured, there are few trees and shrubs other than Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and Kalmias that will not in time do very well on it. It is surprising to find in rela- tion to diverse soils how accommodating shrubs are. To attempt to furnish a list of fruits, flowers, and vegetables, also trees and shrubs, that would do with you would be to include almost everything grown. Work the soil well and manure it freely ; that is the primary preparation. If you propose to plant a large area of ground, we should advise half -trenching it, simply breaking up the bottom and letting it lie, giving a liberal dressing of manure, and planting the whole with Potatoes in the spring. Next winter the land would be in capital condition for planting. Shrubbery. — The question as to how to treat shrubberies is a seasonable one to raise just now. Much, however, depends upon the condition of the shrubbery in determining whether the ground shall or shall not be dug. Many old shrubberies, especially where trees overhang, are so crowded that the soil has become one mass of roots. There is no use whatever in such cases in attempting to dig in the leaves that lie on the surface, and there is no other course but to let them lie and decay in due time, or cover them over with a coating of soil, which, however, cannot always be found. Then there is the plan of annually clearing out all the leaves, carting them away to some out-of-the-way place to decay, bringing back in their place the leafage of the preceding year, which, with other refuse, has become thoroughly rotted and is now in admirable condition to spread over the surface as a mulch or dressing. THE GREENHOUSE. Lily of the Nile (Nile). — The plant to which the inappropriate name of the Lily of the Nile is applied is Richardia osthiopica (the Arum Lily). The description of your tubers does not, however, at all fit those of tlhe Arum Lily, but it applies to some of the other Richardias, such as R. alba maculata, R. elliottiana, and R. Pentlandi. They are none of them hardy, and all need the protection of a greenhouse. The new growth is pushed out from the slight hollow on the upper surface, so that in potting this side must of course be uppermost. Once they start these plants grow rapidly and are liberal feeders. In potting place the tubers at such a depth that there is 1 inch of soil above the top of the tuber, then stand in the greenhouse, and give little water till growth begins ; as the leaves and flowers develop a copious supply is required. Origin of Tuberous Begonias (/. M.). — The Tuberous Begonias have resulted from the crossing and intercrossing of five species, all natives of the Andean region of South America, viz.. Begonia boliviensis, which was tent to this country in 1864 by Mr. Richard Pearce, when collecting in Bolivia for Messrs. James Veitch and Sons. It was first shown in flower in 1867, and put into commerce the next year, 1868. This had small, drooping, long petalled flowers, of a cinnabar scarlet colour. Begonia Pearcei was also sent here in 1865 from Bolivia by Mr. Pearce, in whose honour it was named. This species was the forerunner of the numerous yellow-flowered varieties. Begonia roseeflora, a species from the elevated regions of the Andes of Peru, introduced by Messrs. Veitch, with whom it flowered for the first time in 1867. The flowers of this were round, and of a pale red colour. It never became very popular. Begonia Veitchi, another of Mr. Pearce's introductions, from Peru, in 1867. The flowers were round, and of a bright cinnabar red colour. The very round flowers of the present day hybrids undoubtedly owe a good deal of this character to the influence of B. Veitchi. Begonia Davisii, the last species to be introduced, was discovered by Messrs. Veitch's collector, Mr. Davis, in Peru, at an elevation of 10,OUO feet, and first flowered at Chelsea in 1876 It is characterised by a very dwarf habit, and erect flowers of a bright scarlet colour. The compact growing upright flowered forms so much met with to-day show a great deal of the influence of B. Davisii. The first hybrid Begonia was the produce of B. boliviensis, and was sent out in the year 1870. It was named B. Sedeni, in honour of the raiser, Mr. Seden. Soon after this great numbers of hybrids were raised by different cultivators, and from these beginnings the results are to be seen in the Tuberous Begonias of to-day. Continual selection from the palest forms of Begonia roea3flora resulted at last in a white variety. Datura (G. H. Greatback). — The encloted leaves are that of a Datura, often grown in gardens under the name of Brugmansia, and if as you say the flowers are double, it is Datura Knighti, which is, however, from a botanical point of view, only a variety of 1 )atura suaveolens, a native of Mexico, and introduced therefiom in 1733. The plant attains a considerable size, viz., at least 12 feet in height, and with a large head of branches. It may be planted out in a pre- pared bed in the greenhouse, or grown in a large pot or tub. The plant must not, however, be put directly in a tub when small, but should be shifted on once or twice into larger pots. The Daturas are deciduous, or almost so. The cultural requirements of a Datura are the same as those of a Fuchsia, that is to say, if repotting is needed it should be done in the spring ; the plants may then be liberally treated during the summer months, and in winter they should have a period of rest, when but little water will be required. We should think that you have kept your plant too moist at the roots during the winter. Even if the plant dies back a little it will with the return of spring grow away freely. Tetbury. — You stopped your plants of Edwin Molyneux too early, and as a consequence the buds also developed too early in August to give you really satisfactory blooms. Try pinching your plants during the first week in April, which should have the effect of causing the buds to evolve about the third week in August. There is good reason for believing that the constitution of this one- time popular exhibition sort is now somewhat impaired, and to this fact must be largely attributed the cause o failure with many growers. T. Fore.''ter. —Youmast, of course, have Chrysanthemums such as Source d'Or, Mary Anderson, Lady Selborne, Western King, William Holmes, and other free-floweiing varieties ; they will be most useful for church decoration during the winter. If you want a late-flowering white you should grow L. Canning. Zonal Pelargoniums, of which there are varieties innumerable ; Iloman Hyacinths, Paper White and other Narcissi, winter-flowering Carna- tions, such as Fair Maid, Enchantress, Mrs. Lawson, and others. Eupatoriura odoratum and E. micranthum. Salvia splendens, S. rutilans, and S. Heeri are all good winter-flowering plants, but not so puitable for cutting. Primulas, Cyclamen, the many beautiful winter-flowering Begonias and Cinerarias are also valuable winter-blooming plants, though of little use for cutting, except Cineraria stellata, which is especially useful. ROSE GARDEN. Bone-meal for Roses (Subscrihrr). — This fer- tiliser is very useful if mixed with the soil at the time of planting the Roses at the rate of a handful to each plant, but we do not care so much for it for established Roses. Most good Rose-growers are using basic slag, and if this is very finely ground its value is the greater. It is excellent for all soils deficient in lime ; it is also cheap, and as it will keep for any length of time it is cheaper to purchase in bulk. The basic slag is usually applied at the rate of about 6oz. per square yard, and is put on the ground juat previous to a surface dressing of manure. We prefer to fork it beneath the surface as scon as practicable. Another excellent fertiliser is Tonks' manure. A good dressing of this applied in Febiuary has very lasting results. It is made as follows : Super- phosphate of lime, 12 parts ; nitrate of potash, 10 parts ; sulphate of magnesia, 2 parts ; sulphate of iron, 1 part ; sulphate of lime, 8 parts. Apply at the rate of ;^lb. to the square yard. You will 46 THE GARDEN. [January 20, 1906. find in our advertieihg columns particulars of trees and shrubs. Roses Losing their Foliage {William Sedge). — The foliage appears to be that which was produced last season, and the plants shed- ding the leaves now are only following natural laws. Frequently Marechal Niel and some other Sorts will retain the old foliage until the new shoots are well advanced. You need not fear any injury to the plants. If you have not already pruned them, they should be looked over and all lateral growths cut back to within 2 inches to t) inches of the previous year's growth. Any good long rods that were made during the last summer should not be pruned back, save taking away 1 foot or so of the soft, unripened ends, for it is upon such rods that you will obtain your best blossom this season. Tie out all the growths, so that light can penetrate freely, and, if they are too numerous to allow of this being done, you can without injury remove one or two growths quite to the base. T. T. IF.— You must not pruDe the Eoaes yet, although the buds may be bursting into growth. This is clue to the mild weather. If we have some cold weather it will retard the Hoses, and probably kill some of the new growths. You must not prune before the end of March. FRUIT GARDEN. Mildew on Vines (J. J. Turnam). — The simplest way to get rid of mildew is by using flowers of sulphur. This should be freely dusted on the leaves and bunches as early in the season as the first trace of mildew is seen. Unless you adopt preventive measures when the trouble is slight, you will never be able to keep down the disease in an unhealed house. All the fallen leaves and diseased berries should be carefully gathered and burnt, for they contain mildew spores. In the early spring remove 2 inches or 3 inches of the surface soil and burn it, or take it right away. It is more difficult to get rid of mildew in an unhealed than in a heated vinery. You must keep the atmosphere as dry as possible when the disease is first noticed, for mildew quickly spreads in a moist atmosphere. Ventilate freely except in damp weather, but do not open the front ventilators when it is cold or windy. If freely sprinkling the leaves and fruit with flowers of sulphur does not check the disease next season, spray with sulphide of potassium, and cut off just a few of the very worst-affected leaves. To make sulphide of potassium dissolve loz. of sulphite of potassium (liver of sulphur) in a quart of hot water and dilute it with 2 j gallons of water. You might remove any loose bits of rough bark that are mildewed and burn them. Pruning Fruit Trees (IF. /. Chapman). — It is generally admitted that it is better to prune fruit trees when planted than to defer pruning till the second year. All surplus branches should be cut clean out, and all other growths intended to play a part in the future tree should be cut back about two-thirds of their length. If judicious pruning is carried out the first season there is an actual gain in time in establishing the form of the tree. If the trees are planted in the autumn, pruning ought to be carried out in November, December, or January, in mild weather. In cutting take care to cut to an outside bud, so as to prevent future shoots blocking the centre of the tree. In July pinch back the lateral growths to about 2 inches ; any wanted to form the shape of the tree may be left. Root pruning, if properly carried out on those trees which require it, is most beneficial. You should root prune your Apple trees, cutting back the long, thick, fibreless roots, and relaying any which have a downward tendency in a horizontal direction nearer the surface. Replace the old soil thrown out with fresh, containing plenty of lime and brick rubble, wood ashes, and road scrapings. Make the soil firm when filling it in. Remove the surface soil, say, 0 inches deep, and replace with that advised above. Cutting back the thick and descending roots, and relaying in the fresh soil, thinning out the weakly and crowded shoots so as to let in plenty of light and air, should do good. F. IT. —The best fruit trees to plant against a wall facing east are undoubtedly dessert Plums such as the Gages and the Golden Drop. They succeed exceedingly well exposed to this aspect. Dessert Cherries will also succeed almost eciually as well, also some of the hardier varieties of Pears, such as Williams' Bon Chretien, Marie Louise, Louise Bonne of Jersey, Pitmaston Duchess, Doyenne du Comice, and some others. But Plums and Cherries succeed better than Pears. Grapes retain their flavour and quality better and for a longer period when cut off the Vine at this time of the year. The shoot on which the bunch hangs should be placed in a bottle of water in a dark, dry room, with a temperature of from iS° to 53^ Fahr. Moreover the Grapes are a certain tax on the strength of the Vine whilst hanging, and consequently their removal will help the Vines to a more complete rest and recuperation during winter. KITCHEN GARDEN. Brltssbls Strouts Roots In.tdiied (E. F. C). While the teeth-marks on the roots of the Brussels Sprouts plants sent seem large for those of mice, and more resemble those of rats, we can hardly imagine that the latter would cause the mischief, as they are of a more carnivorous nature than mice or moles. Really the injury done resembles that of the mole cricket, an insect about 2 inches long, which burrows in the soil like the mole, especially in the neighbourhood of streams. It eats through any vegetable substance that may come in its way, and even throws up small hills of soil, as moles do. Where these hills are seen, the insects should, if possible, be dug out. The injury may have been done by moles, as we have found that they eat Potatoes. Steep pieces of rag in paraffin, and put them in the runs. Watercress Beds (E. E.). — Without actually seeing the condition of the bed it is difficult to say whether it would be best to clear it of weeds or clean it out and replant. To clean out and replant will entail a considerable amount of work and some expense, but to clear it of weeds should not be a formidable matter, and this we think we should be inclined to do, for this year at any rate. Let the water out, and drain the pond or brook dry. While the weather is open and mild carefully remove every weed, roots and all, using a fork if necessary. After this work is finished, the bed, no doubt, will have a good many bare patches on its surface. To these add some fresh garden soil, take slips or cuttings from the old Watercress plants (about 6 inches long), replant the patches with the slips 9 inches apart, and make quite firm. Plant them 4 inches deep. By working on these lines we feel sure you will have good success with your bed for many years to come. Should the weather all at once turn frosty, the work could be quite as successfully carried out any time between now and the middle of March. Cropping New Garden (A. 0. H.). — Not a great crop of any vegetable, still less of several kinds, for market sale can be looked for from an acre of ground. The area is about large enough to furnish vegetables for one fair-sized family all the year round. The ground, having been originally covered with gorse, then for two years cropped with Potatoes, can hardly be other than poor, and for general vegetables seems to need ample manuring. No doubt a dressing of gas lime such as you have given will help to get rid of the wire- worms, but it will add no manurial value. Not only should the ground be deeply dug, but in February before cropping a good dressing of half-decayed manure should be given. As the gas lime will be exposed on the surface for several weeks, it will not be injurious to crops. Without adding a manure dressing we fear the cropping would give but poor results. In cropping plant one half with early Potatoes. These should come off in July, and could be followed by white Turnips, stump-rooted Carrots, Spinach, Cab- bages, Savoys, or Coleworts. The other half can be sown or planted with dwarf Peas, Inter- mediate Carrots, Parsnips, Onions, Runner and dwarf French Beans, Autumn Giant Cauliflowers, and Cel»ry. There is no paper specially devoted to the subject you name. F. C. /*.— From our correspondent we have received a specimen Mushroom with another small Mushroom growing on the top of it. This is not a very rare occur- rence, we have frequently come across similar cases. It is a freak of Nature of which no one, so far aa we know, has been able to give the cause. A. ir. 1'.— The maggot which has attacked your young Cabbage plants is evidently the larva of the Cabbage fly. The generations of maggots produced by this fly are assumed to feed up to November, but owing to the winter so far having been open, no doubt the maggot has continued to feed until now. Either smother the bed with fresh soot, washing it in the next day, then gi\'e a fresh dressing, or else lift all the plants from the bed, put them into a bath of clear soot water, and replant them 2 inches apart in a cold frame, dusting them afterwards freely with soot or lime. Anxious.— The safe wintering of Broccoli is in many gardens a ditticult matter, and in low-lying, cold districts it is almost an impossibility in an average winter. On the uplands, where the crop is grown in full exposure, and the soil well drained, these difficulties are lessened ; still, it is wise to take due precaution in all cases, the crop, when it can be saved, being valuable. We have tried many methods of saving the plants, but so far we have found no method to equal that so frequenllyrecommended of taking out a trench on the north side of the plot, and heeling over the adjacent plants into this, covering the stems quite up to the lowest green leaves on the plants with soil taken from the north aide of the next row, to allow of this in its turn being heeled over. In this way we go right through the plot, so that when the work is finished all the heads are inclined towards the north, and all the stems of the plants are covered with soil. MISCELLANEOUS. B. ^.— We are fully alive to the fact that small birds commit sad havoc in gardens. Cannot you protect your trees ? In some gardens where birds seriously disbud fruit bushes, or attack the bush fruits as well as those of Strawberries, these are either wired over — framework being erected for the purpose — or else covered with fish netting. With such things as Crocuses, Primroses, or other flowers a few lines of black thread fixed over them just above the ground form an excellent protection. With- out doubt, laws for the protection of birds have acted disastrously for gardeners in many cases. Heating a Greenhouse (W. D.).-A greenhouse 15 feet by 0 feet needs ample heating power to exclude hard weather. Gas is, of course, fairly reliable, and its beating power is considerable, but it could be utilised for your purpose only in connexion with a proper boiler and hot-water piping. To heat two flows and a return of 4^v-inch piping you would need powerful burners, and the consumption of gas would be considerable ; but everything would depend on the nature of your burners and the way their consumption was regulated. The details you ask for can be best — indeed, almost only— supplied by those who cater for this form of greenhouse heating, and we advise you to apply to some firm advertising in our pages. Gas as a heating power depends very much on its quality, its cost, and the nature of the apparatus it has to heat. Coke is fairly cleanly, and no doubt cheap, but it needs very much attention. Names of Fkiits.— G. B.—l, Apple Winter Peach ; 2, Pear Bergamot Sageret. We do not know the "Sun" Apple. — New Subscriber. — Apple Sir William Gibbons. Ji. Milsom.—'We do not recognise the small fruit ; it is probably a local variety or a very poor fruit of a larger Apple. No, 2 is Lane's Prince Albert. The Pear is Doyenne d'Aleni;on. E. J. J.— Apple Lord Burghley; Pear Josephine de Malines. Curious. —The fruit you have is the Grape fruit. Miis Chalmers.—!, Apple Sturmer Pippin, one of the very best late Apples ; will keep tor two or three months ; 2, Allen's Everlasting, another late variety. Names oi' Plants.— ./. Tizzard.—l, Onyohium japoni- cum ; 2, Polypodium Billardieri ; 3, Polystichum angulare acutilobum ; 4, Pteris cretica albo lineata ; 6, Blechnum occidentale. T. C. N. M.~l, Masdevallla tovarensis ; 2, Odontoglossum luteo purpureum ; 3, 0. sceptrum ; •!, Den- drobium Phalicnopsia schrbderianum, all Orchids. The greenliouse shrub is Myrtua Ugni, more generally known in gardens as Eugenia Ugni. It has small white Myrtle- like blossoms which are succeeded by fruits about the size of Black Currants and reddish when ripe. lu this stage they have a pleasing aromatic flavour, but are of too gritty a nature to become popular, as it was at one time antici- pated they would. Your spike of Oncidium macranthum may yet lengthen considerably before it flowers, for we have known it to attain a length of S feet to lu feet. As a rule it blooms in late spring and early summer. Atidax. — The specimen sent la a form of Laurua oobills, not aufliciently distinct to have a varietal name. Thia plant is often raised in quantity from seed, and there ia then a certain amount of individual variation in the progeny. At the same time, the spray is unusually laden with berries, which in the colder parts of the country are almost unknown, but in the South and West are often produced. W. i)'iiidiotis.—l, Sedura rupestre ; 2, Saxi' fraga trifurcata. January 20, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 47 INSECT PESTS. THRIPS ON ROSES. 1 WONDER how many rosarians went about with a look of blank despair upon their faces when they became aware of the advent of this most mischievous pest during the extreme drought of last summer. Just as a sharp May frost dashes to the ground all one's hopes, so does the arrival of thrips cause discomfiture and ruin the results of months of labour. Assuredly no other pest with which rosarians have to battle works so much havoc in so short a space of time and is so difficult to eradicate. Strictly speaking it is a climatic disease, and it is mostly those whose gardens are on a light shallow soil who know to their cost what a dreadful plague this is. You may mulch, water, and hoe to your heart's content, but all is useless. After several weeks of hot scorching sunshine the wind blows like a sirocco, and you may be perfectly certain that the arrival of the dreaded thrips will not be long delayed. List year we had the worst attack that I ever remember ; they came not in battalions but in legions, smothering everything from top to toe in the garden and devouring anything in the nature of a flower. Even the house became infested with them. For the space of at least ten days they were rampant in the garden, and all the luckless Roses which happened to be in flower during that period were spoilt. At the end of the ten days relief came in the shape of a perfect deluge of rain which quite paralysed the pest. However, when I went the round of my Roses the next day I saw at once that there were thousands of the insects still alive in the buds and blossoms, and my next plan was to devise some means of getting rid of the plague, or else I knew well that I should be troubled with it for the rest of the summer and autumn. Accordingly I got my Vermorel sprayer to work and sprayed every plant all over with a good strong solution of "Abol" insecticide, taking care that it penetrated well into all the expanded flowers and buds. This was done two days following, and then I went carefully over the plants and removed all those flowers and buds which I found were still infested and burnt them. The result was that in the space of about three days I had completely eradicated the thrips, instead, as heretofore, of having them linger on all through August and September. Of course, August was so damp and cool that this fact alone would probably have prevented the pest from making any further headway even if I had not taken these precautions. Still to those who are troubled with thrips these remedial measures may well be recommended, and I shall most certainly repeat them in future. My Carnations, which were treated in the same manner, were kept entirely free by this method, while in all the neighbouring gardens they were quite ruined. So many of my rosarian friends cultivate their plants on cool deep soils that their acquaintance with thrips is slight. The late Mr. Foster-Melliar was, however, a great sufferer at their hands, and I cannot do better than conclude by quoting what he says upon the subject : " Thrips, well known as a pest on many plants under glass, are often very destructive in hot seasons on dry soil. These active tiny black insects cannot eat much it is true, but as what they do eat is the petals of the Roies themselves they often just suffice to spoil an otherwise perfect bloom. In many places they seem to be hardly known as an outdoor pest, and I could scarcely get some friends to believe how much all my light- coloured Roses suffered in this wav in rusty and disfigured petals till the year 1893, when owing to the drought the nuisance was more widely felt. I am seriously inclined to think that for Teas at all events in my garden thrips are the worst of all pests. From two good rows of standard Teas in fine health and growth I gathered in 1893 but one decent bloom, the petals being terribly dis- coloured and even distorted in every other case, and each flower swarming with the enemy. The remedy for thrips as for red spider is moisture ; but, unfortunately for Tea Roses, the remedy is as bad as the disease. It is probably a good plan to syringe the plants and the buds before they actually begin to open with some good insecticide. Syringing even with plain water will undoubtedly keep ofif the thrips, and if continued as long as it is safe without injuring the petals from damp the pest will not in most seasons be found in much strength. Constant damping of the soil under the blooms would probably be useful." Rosarian. LEGAL POINTS Repairino Hedge (C. C). — As the landlord has not undertaken to repair the hedge, you cannot compel him to do so. The fact tbat you are under no obligation to repair makes no difierence. Game Licence to Shoot Rabbits (J. S.). — Som? time ago we published answers to various corre- spondents who wrote to us regarding game and gun licences. In reply to an enquiry we have since received the following letter from the Assistant Secretary to the Inland Revenue, which confirms our view that legally a game licence is required to shoot rabbits otherwise than under the provisions of the Ground Game Act. Oar readers will, however, observe that the Inland Revenue authorities state that in practice no such licence is demanded. " In reply to your letter I am directed by the Board of Inland Revenue to acquaint you that as regards Great Britain the strict legal position is that rabbits fall within the definition of game in the Excise Game Licences Act, 1860 (23 and 24 Vic, c. 90), subject to the exemption in section 5 (2) of that Act for the taking or destroying of conies by the proprietor of a warren, &;c. , and by the tenant of lands or his authorised nominee, and subject to the further exemption allowed by the Ground Game Act of 1880. But having regard to the wide efl'ect of the change in the law made by the latter Act, and to the reluctance of the magis- trates to enforce the penalty for game in the case of shooting rabbits, the i5oard have for some years past refrained from taking proceedings for that penalty, and are satisfied if a gun licence be held. I am to add that under section 43 of the Act (23 and 24 Vic, c 113), a licence is not required to authorise the taking or killing of rabbits in Ireland, and therefore in Ireland a gun licence is sufficient in every case." THE EDITOR'S TABLE. ground. Snowdrops we have had in bloom since Christmas, and made our first good gathering on the .5th inst. Primroses and Polyanthuees of all colours are plentiful. Single and double Arabia, Winter Aconite, Soillas, Hepaticas, and Violets are all flowering. In the rookery the beautiful Satin Flower (Sisyrinchium grandiflorum) and Campanula isophylla are in bloom. We have among flowering shrubs the fragrant Chimonan- thus and Mahonia, while our walls have been gay with the bright yellow .Jasminum since the end of November Though less brightly coloured, the Garrya elliptica in full bloom on a sheltered border is at present an object of great beauty. I enclose a truss of Rhododendron cut from a plant which is at present opening some scores of its lovely flowers. Despite these early blooms, one looks forward with a shudder to the nipping winds and frosts which are almost sure to come before real spring sets in. J. Jeffrey. The Gardens, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright, [A beautiful lot of the flowers mentioned accompanied Mr. .Jeffrey's note. — Ed.] WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub. Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. PRIZES OPEN TO ALL. Winter flowers prom Scotland. The extraordinary mildness of the season enables me to send for your table a few of the many flowers which are at present in bloom here. This morning I noticed in a sheltered nook several self-sown Nasturtiums an inch above WALL GARDENS. A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best answers to the following questions : 1. Describe briefly how a wall should be constructed for wall plants. 2. Describe the way the plants should be inserted in both rough stone and brick walls. 3. Describe the sowing of the seed in the wall. Is it better to plant seedlings or to sow seed, and when is the best time both to plant and sow 1 4. Name the most beautiful spring, summer, and autumn-flowering plants for sunny walls. 5. Name the most suitable plants for a shady wall and those that give the best efleot in winter. 6. Describe the way to treat an old mossy wall which it is wished to sow or plant. 7. How should the plants be treated at all seasons ? The answers must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked " Competition," addressed to " The Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than January 31. Both amateur and professional gardeners may compete. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS , and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors. SOCIETIES. THE HORTICULTURAL CLUB. Bkitish and Foreign Parks— A Comparison. On Tuesday, the 9th inst., the usual moothly dinner of this club was held at the Hotel Windsor, under the presi- dency ot Mr. Harry J. Veitch, when a good number of members and guests attended, and Mr. C. Jordan, super- intendent of Hyde Park, read a very interesting paper on " British and Foreign Parks— A Comparison." The paper was divided into two sections, the Ural dealing with some ot the principal parks of the European capitals, such as Paris, Vienna, Berlin, Buda-Pesth, and other cities, regarding which he gave many interesting details as to the mode in which they were laid out, the width and the arrangement of the roads and other data of great practical value. All these parks and open spaces, naturally, depended tor their attractivenf ss a good deal upon their surroundings and the topographical conditions of their sites, as well as upon the climatic conditions. The lecturer dwelt at some length upon the beauties of the renowned 48 THE GARDEN. [Januahy SiO, ibC6. gardens at Veraailles and the buia de Boulogne and B.>i3 de Viocennea in the vincinity of Pd.ris, and he also graphically described the beautiful sceoery of Bada-Pesth and the splendid character of Vienna as a city, though in this latter connexion the chief park, the Prater, left very much to be desired, being practically entiiely flat, while it was disfiKured by many tenth-rate restaurants, shows, f the natives. Their principal industry is fishing. Vegetables, excepting Potatoea, are seldom seen. Tiees there are none, but such fruit bushes as Gooseberries and Currants, especially the black variety, appear to do well. Only the Alpines and rock-loving plants are to be found. F'lllowiug a short discussion, the meeting conveyed to Mr. Bunyard Its heartiest thanks for the excellent lecture given. NORTH OF SCOTLAND ROOT, VEGETABLE, AND FRUIT ASSOCIATION. There was a good attendance at the annual general meeting of this association, which was held In the Town Hall, Inverurie, recently. Treasurer Liw occupied the chair. The annual report was submitted by Mr. James Eddie, secretary and treasurer, and was generally of a favourable character, although the wet weather at the time of the show had reduced the number of exhibits, as a number of the entries were not forward. There is a credit balance of about £9 In favour of the aaaociation. The report was unanimously adopted. It waa agreed that the next show be a two days' one. WOOLTON GARDENERS' SOCIETY. The annual meeting waa held at the Mechanics' Institute recently, Mr. R. Todd in the chair. The report and state- ment of accounts submitted by the hon. secretary and treasurer gave evidence of a satisfactory year's work, excellent papers were delivered by capable essayists, and special chairmen were invited to preside. The library of some 150 volumes was much appreciated, and a note of unusual merit was given as to the value of the microscope. There is a balance in hand of £2 9i. Votes of thanks were tendered to the officials, all of whom were re-elected, Mr. R. G. Waterman retaining the dual office of treasurer and secretary. BATH GARDENERS' DEBATING SOCIETY. The programme for this year is as follows : January 22, "Tne Progress of Hardy Fruit Culture," by Mr. W. Strugnell, Rood A'shton ; February 12, " Primula sinensis from 1819 to 1906," illustrated with a series of lantern slides, by Mr. H. G. Cox, Hon. Secretary of the Reading Gardeners' Mutual Improvement Association ; February 26, " Violet Culture," by James C. House, Westbury-on-Trym ; March 12. "Grapes and Their Culture," by Mr. William Taylor, Bith; March 26, " Ghtxinias," by Mr. F. Bible, Draycot ; April 9, "Herbaceous Calceolaries," by Mr. Charles Wakefield, We?tbury-on-Trym ; April 23, "Chrysanthe- mums," by Mr. W. Izculden, F.R H.S., Frome ; May 14, open diacuaaion ; May 28, "The Rose in History, Poetry, and Commerce," by Mr. E. J. Love, Bath ; June 11, " Tuberous Begonias," by Mr. W. Morse, Westbury-on-Trym ; July 9, "Carnations," by Mr. Charles Wall, Bath — the second annual outing will take place during tbia month ; August 13, open discussion ; September 10, annual meeting ; and the second annual Chrysanthemum show will be held during November. SCOTTISH HORTICULTURAL SOCIETIES. Royal Caledonian.— The annual general meeting was held on the 10th inst. The report of the council f t the year ending November 30 was presented by Mr. P. Murray Thomson, the secretary and treasurer, and was generally of a favourable character. It referred to the anxiety and labour occasioned by the International Horticultural Exhibition, which had been very successful. Ir. was also mentioned that the council had arranged for the spring show to be held on May 9 and 10, an earlier date than those of the past two years. A Rose show in coiij unci Ion with the National Rose Society would be held on July IS, it being mentioned that the laat provincial show of the National Rose Society in conjunction with the Royal Caledonian Society was held in 1887, the latter society holding Its last summer show in 1889. The usual autumn show will be held on July 12 and 13. The chairman, Mr. J. W. M'Hattie, moved the adoption of the report in an excellent speech, in the course of which he referred to the success of the International Exhibition, to the proposed show in July, and to the continued progress made by the society. The report was adopted, and Mr. P. Murray Thomson afterwards thanked for his services in the work connected with the International Horticultural Exhibition. Lord Balfour of Burleigh, who has warmly interested himself in the society's work, and who has done much personally to increase its membership, waa re-elected president ; Mr. R. Brooman White, Ardarroch, was elected a vice-president, in the room of Sir James Miller ; and the following were appointed members of council, to fill vacancies caused by retirement in rotation and death ; Mr. G. P. Berry, Mr. R. Laird, Mr. R. V. Mather, and Mr. G. Wood. SCOTTISH Horticultural Association.— The annual general meeting of this association was held in Dowell's R )om8, Edinburgh, on the evening of the 9th inst. The attendance was very large, and much interest was mani- fested in the proceedings. The reports of the secretary and treasurer were aubmitted, and were of a satisfactory character. One hundred and thirty-five ordinary and three life members had been admitted during the year, and the membership at the close of the year had reached the high figure of 1,398. Allusion was made to the successful meetings held during the year, and to the Chrysanthemum show of the aaaociation in November last. The treaaurer'a report showed a considerable Increase of funds, mainly derived from the members' fees and sub- scriptions, the total balance from the Chrysanthemum show being £10 4^. 8d. The reports were adopted, and the officials thanked. The meeting proceeded to elect the office-bearers f<)r the year, and Mr. David W. Thomson, nurseryman, George Street, Eiiriburgh, waa appointed president in the room of Mr. J. W, M'Hattie, who has occupied the chair with much success for some time. Mr. M'Hattie and Mr. Anderson were elected vice-presi- dents. The appointment of secretary and treasurer waa conferred upon Mr. A. D. Richardson, Sciennea Gaidens. these offices having been formerly held by Mr. Peter Loney and Mr. William Mackinnon respectively. It was arranged that the annual Chrysanthemum show of the association ahould be held In the Waverley Market, Edinburgh, in November. CARDIFF GARDENERS' ASSOCIATION. The opening meeting of the new year took place at the Sandringham Hotel on Tuesday, the 9th Inst., when Mr. F. G. Treaeder presided over a large gathering of members. Mr. E. H. Bittrti^m, Abercynon, delivered an address upon "Gardening of Fifty Years Ago and that of T-j-dHy." A long diacuaaion followed, and in concluaion Mr. Battram was very heartily thanked for hia address. A very fine pot of Cypripedium insiene was shown by Mr. R Miyne, and awarded the prize of 5a. offered by Mr. P. Beames ; a first- class certificate was awarded to the same pot (carrying thirty-eight blooms). Horticultural Elducation Asso- ciation*— The paragraph od page 19 of Uet week's issue annoUDcing a meetiog of th*- Horti- cultural Education Association at the Horticul- tural Club room, Hotel Windsor, on the 28ih inst., waR sent to us late; the paragraph referred to the 28 rh of December. There is no meeting this month. Cyclamen Low's Salmon.— There is no doubt mat this is a valudble new Cyclamen. The colour of the flowers is salmon, or salmon rose, and quite clear aiAl distinct. The group of plants shown by Messrs. Hugh Low and Co., Bush Hill Park Nurseries, Eufield, at the meeting of the R >yal Horticultural S )ciety on the 9ih inst., was much admired ; the blooms were quite distinct in colouring from any other Cyclamens shown. Their salmon colouring is equally attractive under artificial light. The plants are of compact habit of growth, and the blooms are produced on long stiff stalks. It will doubtless prove a good market plant. Publications Received. The Journal of Botany ; Boletim da Real Acsocla<;ao Central da Agricultura Purtugueza ; Register uf Nuiserles, Market Gardens, Farms, Florists' Seeu Bnelnes-es to be Let or Sitld, from Protheroe and Morris, 67 and 6S, Cheap- side, E.C. ; Bulletin d' Arboriculture et de Flonculiure; Reoentiy-recugnised Species of Craifc^us in Etstern Canada and New Eugland, VI., by C. S. Sargent ; The F -rest Flora of New South Wales, Vol. II., Part?; Part XVII. of the complete work. Catalogues Received. Sweet Peas.- R .bert Bolton, Warton, Carnforth. Bt;y07iias.— John R. Box, West Wickham, S.O., Kent; Thomas Wai^e, Limited, FeUham, Middlesex. Springs, Clips, itc —Herbert Terry and Sons, Reddltch. Horticuttiiral i>iindries. — William Wood and Son, Limited, Woua Green, London, N. Seeds. — Toogood and Suns, Southampton ; Fisher, Sod, and Slbray, Limited, Handsworth, Sheffield; Robert Sydenham, Tenby Street, Birmingham ; Kent and Brydon, Darlington ; Robert Veiich and Son, 54. High Street, Exeter ; John Forbe« autumn. The Hollyhock is a a strong grower, and seems to increase 8"^.°^ ^^^•^^'i 'f'^ "''"Tf'^Pi^"'^"'^''^ '"'J oKiuuis j5.y..ci, nin^ a^ -i 1 „ With a good dressing of farmyard manure, and rapidly. As its name would suggest, it has „hen thi ground is tFenched up in the autumn, been raised in Hdland, and is catalogued by (,5,^ ^i^^er weather prepares it for planting in only a few firms in this country as yet. Thomas Hay. Hopetovm Gardens, Queensferry, N.B. SCARLET FLAKE CARNATION JOHN WORMALD. This fine variety was raised by Mr. H. W. Weguelin in 1893 at Shaldon, Devon. It was, in the first jear of its production as a seedHng, considered by one of the first experts in Carnation culture the best scarlet flake in existence. As a show flower it was awarded the first, second, and third prizes at the Crystal Palace in 1898, was premier scarlet flake in 1899, and has beaten all little decayed manure ; this keeps the soil moist, other varieties in its class whenever shown in preserves a more equable temperature over the competition. It is, unfortunately, not a robust grower, and the colouring is inclined to run. Probably for this reason it has by many growers been discarded, but this beautiful variety deserves underneath the leaves to keep ofl' red spider, to be better known and grown, as the excellence ' The first appearance of the fungus is the signal of its blooms far outweighs its other short- ' for an attack upon it ; if it is taken in time some comings. good may be done, but when it has spread widely Oalcleigh, Cheam, Surrey. H. R. Taylor. , over the entire collection of plants, the case is April or early in May. The young Hollyhock plants should have been well inured to the open air before planting them out, and the operation of planting should be performed when the weather is mild and the ground dry. The permanent sticks must also be placed to the plants at the time of planting out ; indeed, it is much better to drive the sticks firmly into the ground before planting, and dig out holes in front of the sticks into which should be placed some prepared soil, such as is used to pot Pelargoniums, to give the plants a start. The plants must be tied to the sticks as soon as they have grown a little, and it is a good plan to mulch around the roots with a roots, and the plants will make a much better growth. As the season advances, dry weather will set in and water at the roots will be needed, but it will also be desirable to syringe well January 27, 1906. ] THE GARDEN. 53 hopeless. It requires a good stout stick to hold a well-grown Hollyhock plant in position, and as the spikes advance in growth, they must be securely fastened to prevent their being snapped in a high wind. A good strong plant will throw out many side growths, and it is usual to remove these, so that all the strength of the plant may be thrown into the centre spike. Upon the side growths there are also numerous flower-buds, but at the base of each there are a few leaves with leaf growths at their axils ; all these may be taken and cut out as Vine eyes are treated for propagation, and if inserted singly in small flower-pots, they will soon form plants in a very mild heat if covered with a garden frame. The dead and decaying flowers should be removed from the plants, as they not only have an untidy appearance, but also cause the seed-pods to decay. Seedling raising is also an important and interesting part of the cultivator's work. I sow the seeds in May, and they form strong plants for flowering the following season. They may be sown out of doors, or, what is better, in a frame over a hot-bed. The seeds are more likely to vegetate well in that position, and the seedlings can easily be pricked out into boxes to be trans- ferred to the open borders as soon as they are large enough. They ought to be planted where | they are to flower in good time, so that they are well established before the winter. Seedlings are seldom injured by frost. D. of Potatoes for some forty-five years, and during that time have constantly tested the table qualities of new varieties, as well as older ones. During the time I have been a member of the fruit and vegetable committee of the Royal Horticultural Society I have attended every cooking test of the leading varieties grown for trial. I had the tasting, last autumn, of fifty diverse lots cooked at Marks' Tej', a very unusual experience. All this experience has, and does, lead me to the conclusions I previously made ' public in these columns. There is even yet I another reason ; it is that there is so much latent disease in Potatoes that until peeled it cannot be noted, and tubers cooked with their coats on would be objectionable served to table materially spotted. It is of importance to note further that those who so greatly praise Potato skins never eat them when cooked. They know better than to do that. A. D. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. ) CLEMATIS DAVIDIANA. [To THE Editor or "The Garden."] SIR, — I have been much interested in reading the different accounts of that little known but lovely plant with blue flowers. Clematis davidiana. I quite agree in thinking it is somewhat difficult to grow, as my plant did not flower last year, though it was in a very sunny position, but rather exposed to the south-west wind, which blowsl very strongly here at times, near! Slirewsbury; so it evidently pre-' fers a sheltered corner, as it grows well in that charming garden at Si. Nicholas House, ScarbDrough, which formerly belonged to Mr. ■$ ;^ Woodall but has now been bought t* by the County Council and thrown open to the public. The gardens have been most cleverly laid out in a series of terraces down the face of the cliff facing south-east straight on to the seashore, and contain many nooks and corners in which grow and flourish many rare and precious plants, among others that lovely pink Crinum 0. oapense. All these grounds were originally planned and laid out by Mr. E, Woodall, who is now the happy possessor of a still more lovely garden near Nice, which was formerly a vineyard, on both sides of a narrow valley, and here plants grow and flourish as they do in the Riviera. Mabel Meybick Pryce. UNFIXED NOVELTIES. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir,— I am glad to see "J. S." drawing attention in your columns to a growing evil in the horticul- tural world, viz., the sale of novelties in an utterly unfixed condition. This applies not only to Sweet Peas, but to other annuals as well. Unfortunately, the practice of our flower shows lends itself to the spread of this habit, for there is a widespread belief that if a variety receives any official award it is necessarily good. We are gradually being taught, however, that the speci- mens exhibited are not required to be representa- tive of the progeny their seed will give rise to. I am speaking here of annuals, and not of vegetatively propagated perennials. My own experience is, I fear, typical of that of many ottiers in this way. I must content myself with describing one case only, that one being the worst of a series. In 1903— at the Holland House Show, if I remember right — a beautiful bunch of the now notorious. Sweet Pea Countess Spencer tempted me to buy .seeds. On the packets when they arrived was the information '• that the "variety" sported a! little. This description proved altogether too^imodest, for out of some fifty plants two resembled the type exhibited at the show. Seed saved from these faithful ones repeated the phenomenon in the following teason. j I need not describe the various tjpes this •' variety " threw, for all who grow Sweet Peas I know by now the origin of .J.jhn iDgmau, Orange Couniess, &c. These sports in the fnlluwiug season proved as fickle as iheir parent. This fact was, I believe, eenerally known before the last show of the National Sweet Pea Society, yet it did not deter the judges from giving awards to such sports. There is, however, one gleam of hope in the situation, and that is that the aggre- gate vote of the members of this society which places the different varieties in their order of I merit rejects tlie parent of these sportive forms ! Next season's judging should prove full of I interest. With such an example before one, 1 can but think that the suggestion made by j "J. S." is most opportune. Every exhibitor for : certificates of merit or other awards should be j required to guarantee the fixity of his novelty, or, at all events, give reliable statistics as to what may be expected of its progeny. Those who purchase the seeds of such novelties would then be placed in a far more satisfactory position than they are at present, and that of itself should prove advantageous to the sellers as well. Cambridge. A Victim.^ J A HARDY PLANT SOCIETY. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — The proposal of " Heather Bell" to form a hardy plant society is one which has been before the flower-loving public for some time, and has failed to take a concrete form, not because of any feeling that such a society has not an ample field for its operations, but simply because no one has as yet been able to find time or opportunity for taking the first steps in connexion with it. Some two or three years ago, I was approached on the subject, and intended taking steps to call a meeting, but other pressing matters prevented my doing so. A hardy plant society should not be a London society ; it must be truly a national one, encouraging the cultivation of hardy flowers by work of various kinds in different centres COOKING POTATOES [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir,— I would not have written to you on the question of the cooking of Potatoes it I had not, in relation to the subj ect, unusual experience, I have been a grower a group of doublb-flowered hollyhocks 54 THE GARDEN. [January 27, 1906. throughout the United KiDgdom. Now this would mean a considerable call upon the time and energy o£ any man, for it must be remembered that the work of a hardy plant society covers a much wider field than that of any of the special flower societies. I have little doubt, however, that sufficient support would be forthcoming, if the society were once launched, to make an important move forward, and that its operations would tend to a still greater increased interest in hardy flowers. A combined effort on the part of private and trade growers would result in a society which could do much to further the cultivation of hardy flowers, and assist the various other societies which promote horticul- ture generally, and which include within their operations the flowers in which this society would be entirely interested. There are, for example, many questions regarding staging, judging, classification, &c., upon which the society could advise or give substantial assistance ; while it might institute special classes at the larger shows and ofifer good prizes in connexion with these. What is principally required is an energetic secretary who has time, and is within a reasonable distance of the various centres from which its operations could be conducted. Could such a man be found the success of the society would be easily assured. S. Arnott. Sunnymead, Dumfries, Scotland. CYCLAMEN LOW'S SALMON AND SWEET-SCENTED FORMS. [To THE Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — We notice your correspondent's remarks (page 18) on our new Cyclamen Low's Salmon, and it may interest him to know that we obtained the colour of our variety, which is of the gigan- teum strain, from the very sort he mentions. Low's Salmon is now some generations old, and of the colour obtained from the small variety mentioned the giganteum blood has proved itself constant. In your issue of the 6th inst. your correspondent refers to a sweet-scented variety. His remarks are quite true ; we also have a sweet- scented strain which is white in colour, but we notice that the sweetest flowers lose the giganteum type. Hugh Low and Co. Royal Nurseries, Bush Bill Park, Enfield. THE ROSE GARDEN. ROSE STOCKS BUDDED LAST SUMMER. {In reply to "/."] THE wild growth must not be cut away at present unless you require the shoots for cuttings. If you should do so, there will be no harm in removing some of the ripened growths from either the standard Briars or the Manetti stock, but, as it is now too late for this work, probably you will not trouble about them. The correct time to cut back the budded stocks is in February in mild weather. The standards and half- standards are usually cut back to within about 3 inches or 4 inches from where the bud is inserted, and any wild growths that are not budded are removed quite close to the main stem. The object of leaving a small portion of the Briar shoot above the inserted bud is that the young growths of the Briar serve to draw up the sap, which has the effect of starting the inserted buds into growth. These Briar growths are not allowed to develop more than about 2 inches before the points are pinched out. About May, when the Rose buds are well developed, the wild shoots are entirely removed, and in June the Briar growth in which the bud is inserted is cut back close to the Rose growth, when it imme- diately begins to callus over, so that by the autumn the wound is quite healed. Before the Rose shoot has grown much, a "stave" in the form of a flat stick is tied on the Briar, so that when the Rose shoot needs support it is tied to this stake. The dwarf stocks, both Briar and Manetti, are cut back quite close to the inserted buds in February. Sticks or Bamboo canes are placed close to the stem, and the young shoots of the Rose tied to the sticks as soon as thej' need support. As you grow for exhibition, do not pinch the shoots to make them bushy, as the finest blooms usually appear on these maiden shoots. Sometimes when ilay frosts have injured the young shoots it is advisable to pinch them back. With regard to those that are now grown out, cut them back almost to their base at once. You will find a powerful pair of secateurs strong enough for the work of cutting back, but if a few are too thick a small pruning-saw may be used, the wound afterwards being smoothed over with a knife. Sometimes the stem-borer is very troublesome upon budded standard Briars, the pest boring right down the pith of the Briar. To cheek this paint over the top (when you cut back the Briar) with some painter's knotting or grafting-wax. You appear to have well prepared the soil before planting the stocks, and we should say that no further manuring will be required until February. During that month give the ground a dressing of Tonks' manure. 'This is compounded as follows : Superphosphate of lime, twelve parts ; nitrate of potash, ten parts ; sulphate of magnesia, two parts ; sulphate of iron, one part ; sulphate of lime, eight parts. Apply this at the rate of a quarter of a pound to the square yard, and it should also be given to any other Roses you may have in the garden, hoeing it or lightly forking it in. During April and May liquid cow manure should be given to the plants fairly liberally, each plant receiving from one to two gallons once a fortnight. Towards the end of May and early in June a teaspoonf ul of fish or other guano should be given each plant once a fortnight, watering it in well in the evening, and hoeing the ground the next day. Careful disbudding should be carried out as soon as the tiny buds are visible, but it is not wise to disbud all Roses alike. This knowledge can only be acquired by experience. As a rule, all the Victor Verdier or smooth - wooded race should have some of the centre buds removed, as, if not, they frequently come deformed. You do not say what sorts you have budded, but you will do well to keep to a few of the sterling exhibition sorts, budding these in quantities this summer ; for instance, such varieties as Mrs. John Laing, Frau Karl Druschki, Mrs. W. J. Grant, &c. You would require a dozen or two of each. For the beginner in exhibiting Roses it is better to grow a few sorts than a large number. parfum de THay. I should advise every rosarian to grow the last mentioned as its scent is singularly delicious. That lovely Bourbon Rose Z^phyrine Dronhin is, of course, famed for its fragrance. Arthur R, Goodwin. [I find that I have omitted Tea Mme. Berkeley, but it should most certainly be included in the above list. — A. R. G.] ROSE MISS WILLMOTT. A dainty little Rose of beautiful colour is this single Tea Rose. It reminds me, before the buds unfold, of a small specimen of L'Ideal, and it is surprising what a length of time these buds remain on the plant in the folded condition during October days. The clusters of buds, if cut when they show colour, open beautifully in the warmth of a room, and it would be difficult to find a more lovely tinted Rose for a small vase. These single Teas and Hybrid Teas have a value that must not be lost sight of, although I cannot see how they merit the award of a gold medal, for all who have had anything to do with the raising of seedling Roses know full well that there are fully 50 per cent, more single Roses produced than double ones. The variety Irish Elegance is delightfully pretty, but the wiedom of the recent award of the National Rose Society was doubted by many competent judges. P. FRAGRANT ROSES. On page 277, in answer to a correspondent, the following list of Roses, which are very fragrant, is given : Cabbage, A. K. Williams, Charles Lefebvre, General Jacqueminot, Alfred Colomb, Augustine Guinoisseau, La France, Louis van Houtte, Magna Charta, Mrs. John Laing, and Gloire de Dijon. May I be allowed to supple- ment this list by the addition of the following varieties? Gustave Griinerwald, probably one of the sweetest of all the modern Hybrid Teas ; Mme. de St. Joseph, the most deliciously scented of all the Teas ; Souvenir de Gabrielle Drevet, also a Tea-scented variety ; Papa Lambert, a Hybrid Tea, which has inherited the sweetness of one of its parents, viz., Marie Baumann ; Farbenktinigin, an undoubted seedling from La France, and retaining a good deal of its Ecent ; Charlotte Gillemot, Hybrid Tea; Princess Bonnie, Hybrid Tea ; Johanna Sebus, Hybrid Tea, a most exquisitely scented variety. There are two Rugosas whose fragrance is delightful, i.e., Conrad Ferdinand Meyer and Rose a STOVE & GREENHOUSE. DWARF CHRYSANTHEMUMS. DURING the past season the market ^ has been well supplied with good I dwarf plants. The best plants f vary in height from 1^ feet to 24 feet, those in 4i-inch pots having from six to nine good blooms, and those in larger pots nine to twelve on single stems. Some are grown without being disbudded, but the best are those with a single flower on each stem. It is the dwarf sturdy growth that is the great feature of the market plants, and it may be interesting to note that while some of the older varieties are still grown, we have had valuable additions among the newer varieties during the last few years. The question often arises. How are these Chrysanthemums treated to get them to such perfection ? Well, the first thing is the selection of suitable sorts, and it is only a comparatively small number that will prove useful, and the next is to give them undivided attention. Taking the Varieties first, the earliest are those of the Mme. Masse family. The most useful is Horace Martin, one of the best early yellows for any purpose. Ralph Curtis, cream, and Crimson Masse are good. Harvest Home remains a favourite red. Goacher's Crimson is grown by some, but is hardly bright enough in colour. Mme. Desgranges is still a favourite early white, but Lady Fitzwygram makes the best plant, and comes nearly as early. Mrs. Hawkins, yellow, is succeeded by Ryecroft Glory and Nellie Brown, the bronze variety, and both extensively grown. Market White is a good early sort. La Vestal, a new variety, seen in September, would be a useful addition to the blush pink varieties. Goacher's Pink is another. Coming to sorts we see a little later, Ivory White and Pink Ivory are very good, especially as dwarf plants. I may add that the market names for these are White Star and Pink Star. Soleil d'Ootobre is one of the best yellows we have for early October, and it holds out for some weeks. It grows rather later than some, but makes a splendid plant. We have a good bronee variety of this which is equally useful, and to these have been added other sports. Cricket's October and Terra Cotta Soleil, the latter especially, should be a welcome addition. Among crimsons, W. Holmes and W. Shrimpton January 27, 19< 6.J THE GAEDEN. 55 are both good, and a few growers atill have Cullingfordi. Phtebus is a yellow to follow those named above. Souvenir de Petit Ami is a favourite white. Caprice du Printemps, purple-mauve, , though not a popular colour, is grown, and makes one of the best pot plants. Kathleen Among the whites for late work, Western King and Miss E. Fulton are good. A few growers pro- duce Niveua well, but it is not a general favourite for pots. A. J. Balfour is a good pink but Mme. Felix Perrin (Framfield Pink), when grown well, is the best, yet not all growers succeed with I \ V -If/ CYPRIPEDIUM ALCIBIADBS MAGNIFICnM (EBDJJCED). {A new hybrid Orchid, which obtaimd a first-class certificate from the Royal Horticultural Society on the 9th ivst.) Thompson, a sport from the above, is a bright this. W. H. Lincoln, an old variety, makes one chestnut red, and one of the best we have, of the finest yellows we have for late work. Boule de Neige is a good white. Mrs. Wing- Mrs. Thompson is a good white. I may add field 13 one of the best pink varieties ; this should ; Matthew Hodgson as a late crimson. AUman's have been included with those for early October. , Yellow makes a useful plant. Perhaps others might be added to the above list, but those referred to were among the most prominent in the market during the past season (except those referred to as new varieties). CuLTDRE.— Asl have stated, careful attention is the chief essential in growing pot plants. A start must be made with strong, healthy cuttings. The stock plants require to be kept in a cool house where they get plenty of light and air. The best cuttings are those thrown up from the base ; the short, thick cuttings should be selected. Propagating may be commenced any time after the middle of .January, but many sorts will be better if struck later. The difficulty with early cuttings is that they make too much root for the size pots they have to be flowered in. The cuttings may be struck in shallow boxes, but they should be potted singly in small pots as soon as sufficiently rooted ; they should be potted firmly in good loam with some manure added. It is not advisable to expose the plants to frost, but the cooler they can be kept the better. If allowed to get drawn up weakly in the early stages, it will be impossible to make strong dwarf plants. They should be stopped early, and if they do not make a sufficient number of shoots, they may require stopping again. As soon as well rooted round the pots they should be potted on. Compost is an important matter ; the best yellow loam pro- curable should be used, and to this may be added some well-decayed leaf-mould, stable manure, and a liberal supply of bone-meal. Firm potting is a great point ; this has much to do with securing short, thick growth. With loose potting the plants will grow more rapidly, but thinly. I may add that some of the late sorts may be grown from the tops of the young plants. These, if rooted late in the summer, will make dwarf plants. I have rooted tops after the buds have shown ; these grown several together in each pot make useful plants. Liquid manure will be required to be used liberally, but it is quite possible to over-do this j and a most important Eoint is never to allow the plants to get too dry. lisbudding should be done as early as possible, and sometimes the shoots may require thinning out, in which the weakest or any that have run up too tall should be taken ofif. Some growers plant out and pot them up about the time the flowers begin to open. I have seen plants do very well when treated in this way, but it is only where the ground is good and holds together well, and when planted they require to be made flrm ; in loose, light ground the roots spread, and they make thin growth. Some varieties also do better than others under this treatment. When they are taken up, keep them close and a little shaded for a day or two, but they soon take hold of the new soil. They must not be kept close after they have made a new start. Although this method may be carried out fairly successfully, the best plants I have seen have been those grown in pots from the start. A. He:iislby. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. A NEW CYPRIPEDIUM. On the 9tli inst., in the Horticultural Hall, Major Holford, C.I.E., Westonbirt, Tetbury, Gloucestershire, exhibited an un- usually fine Cypripedium, called C. Alcibiades magnificum. It is a remarkable and quite distinct hybrid, the result of a cross between C. leeanum giganteuni and G. M. de Curte. The flower is broader than it is long ; the dorsal sepal is some 2j inches wide and not so high j the upper margin curves over, and thus still further lessens its height. In colour and marking the dorsal sepal is a good deal similar to C. leeanum. The petals are heavily marked with red-brown on a green 56 THE GARDEN. [January 27, 1906. AN OVERFLOW OF SAXIFRAGA AIZOON. ground ; the red-brown pouch is very short and broad. The flower is borne on a short, stout stalk, and the leaves are thick and leathery. A first-class certificate was awarded to this hybrid by the Orchid Committee. ALPINE PLANTS IN PANS. A LTHOUGH not everyone has it /\ within his means and scope to lay / % out a rook garden on a large scale, / % with stones by the truokload, and 1 \. shrubs and plants in thousands, yet anyone who has a little corner of sunny ground may grow many charming alpines ; and even if one has no garden, pro- perly speaking, there may still remain the possibility of growing these delightful plants in pans. In some respects, indeed, the pictorial value of alpines is greatly enhanced by their being grown in this manner ; partly because, properly treated, certain kinds seem to flourish better thus than in the open rockery ; but principally, perhaps, because one can then so easily have them placed for observa- tion just under the eye. For the lover of flowers, who is infirm or an invalid, such a consideration may be a very important one. The pictures illustrating this paper are reproduced from photographs of pan rockeries containing Saxifrages, Sempervivums, and Sedums. To these kinds the grower is practi- cally almost restricted, if the word be admis- sible when even then such a wealth remains. These three typical alpine families, but notably the Saxifrages and Sempervivums, include numerous sorts, of minute and beauti- ful growth, not of rapid increase, but choice and delicate in flower, rendering them par- ticularly suitable for planting in a miniature rockery. The Sedums or Stonecrops, generally speaking, are coarser and quicker of increase, and are better where they can be kept less within bounds. The following Saxifrages may all be said to be good sorts for pans : Saxi- fraga burseriana and its varieties, S. apiculata, S. paradoxa, S. aizoon in its many forms, S. cochlearis, S. waldensis (a gem for this purpose), S. CEesia, and S. squarrosa. Of Sempervivums, S. arachnoideum and its varieties are indispensable, while other valuable sorts are S. fimbriatum, S. Pomelii, S. arenarium, and others. In the confused state of the nomenclature of this genus it is diffi- cult to be precise in indicating sorts, but a visit to a good collection would result in the acquisition of several desirable kinds, however labelled. It must be admitted, with regard to Sedums, that the writer makes very little use of any but one— S. glaucum. Some growers may wish to experiment with other plants, but it will probably be found pretty generally that there are not many of the commoner things so satisfactory as those named. These pans are made up, for the most part, with pieces of coarse, porous limestone from Derbyshire, miscalled " tufa," in reality a stalactite or stalagmite rock, and peculiarly suitable, in that its natural crinkles afford excellent foothold for the plants, which in time creep over the surface, rooting into the crevices, where they are able to obtain A THKEE-YBAR-OLD PAN. nourishment from the stone itself or from ms*' clouded nubbin full of sandy lumps and centred by a huge hard core. The quality is greatly improved by early picking (in New Jersey about the middle of September), the fruits being tlowly ripened in a cool, dark place, preferably in closed barrels or boxes. It is said that if allowed to- remain on the tree to maturity the core never softens. It is also said that the fruit is not so- handsome from old orchards. Le Conte, to which your correspondent also refers, is one of the earliest hybrids of Pyrus sinensis. It wa« widely planted throughout the Southern States prior to 1870, and still comes into the New York market in great quantities ia early July, before the California Bjrlletta. Northern Le Contes are marketed in lata August, and a choicer crop in September, thinning having: a very desirable effect. We are told that about twenty-five years ago blight began to affect Southern Le Conte orchards very serir.usly, and this variety is being replaced by Kieffer, which is less perishable in shipment. I like the quality of Le Conte much better than that of Ki< ff r, and I think Northern growers will find it very useful for home and near-by markets, but it must b& carefully picked and properly ripened. AmericaD growers are now experimenting with crossea between these Chinese Pears and the choice' European kinds. We have tasted some of excel- lent quality, and if they only develop the resistant qualities of the sinensis type we shall feel much gratitude. But there is, apparently, no reason why British growers should plant Kieffer, Le Conte, Garber, or Smith, unless they, like us, have to endure the attacks of blight and San Jose scale, nor is there any reason why the British consumers should buy Kieffers so long a» native orchards offer an adequate supply. Emily Taplin Roylb, Associate Editor, Rural New- Yorker. Maywood, New Jersey. WARDIAN CASES. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — Referring to Mr. Druery's interesting article on Wardian oases and filmy Ferns in Thb Garden of the 13th inst., page 32, I would like to mention that I have a case in my house in which I planted some Trichomanea radicans nearly forty years ago, and the soil has never been renewed ; but on the surface I placed miniature rocks of porous sandstone, over which the Killarney delights to creep. Cranleigh. F. J. Hayward. PEAR AMADOTTE. [To THE Editor of " The Garden."] Sir, — Sjme years ago, when forming a collection of highly-flavoured Pears, and those notable for distinct or peculiar aroma, two trees were included of Pear Amadotte, which had been obtained from a continental garden. It was then but little known in British collections, though it had been previously grown for many years, and since that time I have never seen it, though so remarkable a variety can scarcely have disap- peared entirely. The fruit is of moderate ^izi, rarely exceeding 3 inches in diameter, somewhat rounded in form, of a delicate green tint becoming pale yellow, wish occasionally a slight red flu-ii on one side. The flesh is usually crisp, but varies, and is in some examples both melting and full uf a rich sweet juice. The flavour has been com- pared to both aniseed and uiusk, and peihaps ii.ay be best described as a mixture of the two. The character of this Peai, like so many olbnis, is greatly influenced by the stock and soil, the quality being far better on Pear stocks and in moderately heavy soils. The variety possesoes Febhuary 3, 1906.] THE GARDEN. U a, vigorous, healthy habit of growth, and has been recommended as a stock for melting Pears. The fruit is at its best during November and December, but I have had it in fair condition to the end of January. R. L. Castle. CHRISTMAS ROSES FROM SEEDS. [To THE Editor or " The Garden."] Sir, — In a recent issue of The Garden it was suggested that the amateur or beginner in i gardening should make a start with the above by raising the plants from seeds. I rather think the experience would prove — if not disappoint- ing— at least a little discouraging. Not only do the seeds of the Christmas Rose (Helleborus niger) vegetate somewhat slowly, as well as eratically, but the after-progress of the seedlings is by no means a certainty, or even well known or understood by the average gardener. It is in those circumstances, therefore, that I think the amateur should start first with plants, and secondly with seeds of his own sowing. The beginner will have more than a passing interest in the latter, and he may like to know that such j from this that they require peat for successful cultivation. We thould like to say, however, that the plants illustrated by you a few weeks ago are growing on stifif clay and rather wet soil, and we do not think that plants could thrive better. This shows that although the plants may, and do, thrive well in peaty soil, it is not essential. Sussex. The Barnham Nurseries, Ltd. STOVE & GREENHOUSE- A VALUABLE WINTER-FLOWERING PLANT. (MOSCHOSMA EIPARIUM.) A BEAUTIFUL greenhouse plant, this is well vporthy of extended cultivation ; its requirements are few, and are such that anyone possessing a heated glass-house may grow it well. We have few more graceful winter-flowering plants suitable MOSCHOSMA RIPARIUM. (-^ ffood winter-ftoivering plant for the greenhouse.) seeds should be sown in June or July, almost as Boon as gathered, that a shady or moist spot should be selected in the open ground, and good fresh loam added for the seeds, the latter to be thinly — very thinly — sown not more than 1 inch •deep. The amateur may also like to know that the seedlings are not likely to appear earlier than Dine, and some not earlier than eighteen, months from the sowing. It is best, too, if the seed-bed be covered over by slates or tiles to prevent a too rapid escape of moisture. Finally, as the most fatal thing in this instance would be " pricking off the seedlings when large enough to handle," the raiser of seedlings should be content to allow them to remain two seasons, and do the " pricking out " business in August or September as the best period of the whole year. E Jenkins. SOLANUM JASMINOIDES. [To the Editor of "The Garden."] Sir, — We notice in The Garden of the 20 h inst. Mr. Smart's letter with reference toSolanum jasminoides ; he mentions certain plants in Somer- set which are growing on peaty soil, and assumes for house or conservatory decoration. This plant roots very easily and does not need a heated case. The one illustrated was raised from a catting in April last. Several can be rooted in a 4 inch pot in a mixture of equal parts of leaf mould and loam, with a fair amount of coarse sand. When rooted pot off singly into .3-inch pots, and while they are in those pots harden them off for placing in an ordinary frame. About the end of May they will be ready for the final potting into 5-inch or G-inch pats, according to their sizes, using a compost of two-thirds loam to one- third leaf soil, to which is added a sprinkling of bone-meal and some sand. Keep them still in the frame, but give plenty of air in the summer to promote sturdy growth. When the roots have taken good hold of the fresh soil pinch out the ends of the shoots, and stop the resulting shoots again when they have made four or five leaves, so as to make each plant have eight to twelve shoots. They should be allowed to remain in the frames until the middle of October, feeding them well from September onwards. When removed from the frames place them in a cool greenhouse. If kept in a close warm house and " coddled " the .sprays produced will be very weak, and instead of the plants developing into objects of more than ordinary beauty they will be poor and weak. W. H. BOOND. Gatton Parle Gardens, Reigate. BEGONIA AMABILIS. This is the first seedling I have seen from the Gloire de Lorraine type. It was raised by Messrs. Thomas Rochford and Sons, Limited, who exhibited it at the Royal Horticultural Hall a few weeks ago. It may be mentioned that the seed parent was one of the recent sports from Gloire de Lorraine. This, which was first shown by Mr. H. B. May under the name of Mister- piece, has occurred in several places and been shown under other names. It is distinct from the type, being more vigorous, and the flowers, which are equally bright, are rather larger. The seedlings were from one seed-pod which had been fertilised with pollen from socotrana, which, it will be remembered, was one of the parents of Gloire de Lorraine. The most distinct feature of the seedlings is that the leaves are distinctly peltate, but not so rough as in socotrana, which also has peltate leaves. The basal leaves are large, but those on the flower-stems are smaller. The plants when shown were only about four months old. A remarkable feature was that very little variation was seen in a number of seedlings. It evidently possesses the free-flowering habit of its parent. It is possible, now we have a sport that has proved fertile, that further hybrids may be raised; yet it would seemdiffioult to get a much better thing than the original Gloire de Lorraine, which has become a universal favourite. It is now grown in almost every private garden, and we have it in the market for over six months of the year. It is grown too extensively to realise high prices ; yet well-grown plants will always sell well. The white variety, Turnford Hall, does not sell quite so well in market, there being so many other good white flowers ; but private growers should always associate it with the pink. Here I may mention that we are likely to have an improved form of this. Mr. H. B. May has a variety he has named Mont Blanc which as shown was decidedly a clearer white and seemed to be as great an advance on Turnford Hall as Masterpiece is on the original form of Gloire de Lorraine. There is no doubt that all the stock of this useful Begonia is better now than when it was first introduced. I should recommend all growers to be careful to select the strongest plants only for cuttings. By doing this I think we may get further vigour into this useful plant ; but I do not approve of renaming every variation that is found. Unless decidedly dis- tinct, it should be grown under the old name. Lorraine is the abbreviated market name, and though we see a good many of the variety Mrs. Leopold de Rothschild, the name is not generally recognised. A. Hemsley. THE ROSE GARDEN, JOTTINGS ABOUT ROSES. ON MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.— , Some time ago I received an in- I teresting letter from a rosarian at f Keith concerning the various topics touched upon in these notes. In it he remarks that " nurserymen's catalogues are very useful, but the descrip- tions given therein are, to say the least of it, too rosy. It is almost impossible to make a selection, certainly the bad qualities are not mentioned." While sympathising to some extent with my correspondent, I should like to point out that 70 THE GARDEN. [February 3, 1906. there are two sides to the question. First of all, the perfect Rose has not yet been raised, and probably never will be. Every variety in my collection has ecme defect or other, and these defects are magnified more or less according to individual opinions and circumstances. For my own part I always look upon the Rose catalogues which our nureerymen friends despatch to us during the early autumn days as intended to act the part of missionaries, and gather into the rosarian fold those who have never recognised that the Rose is the flower of flowers. My correspondent suggests that in " the manners and customs of Roees," the climate, weather, stock, and situation required by each variety should be given. When one comes to think it over this is rather a tall order, especially as regards the first two items. I am only too ready to admit that the weather plays a most important part in the production of good Roses, as it does in the production of all fruits of the earth ; but I am afraid that if 1 were asked to define the perfect Rose weather I should be loth to reply before consulting my friend Mr. Mawley, who makes such a close study of meteor- ological conditions. Tiuth to tell, in the matter of weather rosarians — like most ordinary mortals — are generally difficult to please, and so it not unfrtquently happens that, when your neighbour (who dotes on Hybrid Perpetuals) tells you that the weather is suiting his plants to perfection, you are at the very same time grumbling that it is too cool for your Teas. Some varieties are extremely sensitive to wet and cold, and many of these are only kept from dropping out of cultiva- tion because every now and then they produce a fine bloom, which creates a sensation at a Rose show. Etoile de Lyon and La Boule d'Or are two good examples, and there areothers much about the same. Slight rain or even a heavy dew will often quitespoil Edith D'ombrain,BeP8ieBrown, Ma man Cochet, Medea, Jean Ducher, Souvenir de Pierre Netting, L'lnnocence, Sylph, Comtesse Panisse, Comtespe de Frigneuse, Alliance Franeo-Russe, Mme. Wagram, Comtesse de Turenne, Mme. Hoste, and others. It is best at all times to avoid such as these unless one lives in a district where the rainfall is sparse. But it is manifestly impossible to give detailed descriptions of the climate and weather required by each variety, as the nature of the soil, the lie of the land, the altitude above sea-level, and a hundred other points would have to be considered before one could arrive at a definite conclusion. Then, again, people's ideas as to what constitutes good or bad soil vary considerably. Only last summer someone wrote to tell me that he was growing "show" Roses on sand, and it was only just as I was beginning to wonder how he accomplished this feat that 1 found that the so-called "sand" was in reality a nice sandy loam of good depth ! Tia and Hybrid Tea Roses in Scotland — Until I he other day I was not aware that Ruses were of any use in districts where the rainfall was abnormal, jet a friend who gardens in Inverness-shire and has a large number of Roses feeds me a list of varieties which do well there. All his plants are growing in almost pure peat, and 100 inches of rain per annum are registered in the district. J^^ ' t-aJlZI. Here is the list giving" the varieties in their order of merit : Frau Karl Druschki, Mme. Abel Chatenay. Mme. Ravary, Prince de Bulgarie, Antoine Rivoire, Liberty, Killarney, Perle von Godtsberg, G. Nabonnand, Mme. E. BouUet, Caroline Testout, La Tosca, Lady Battersea, Viscountess Folkestone. Grand Due Adolphe de Luxembourg, Lady Roberts, Papa Gontier, La France, and Mme Jean Dupuy. Altogether he grows between 700 and 800 Roses, and he tells me that " seme of them do magnificently, and I have never seen such colour as we get here. I sm no believer in a great number of varieties, and I will not have anything unhss a continuous bloomer, a vigorous grower, and a good opener in damp weather. We never have the slightest sign of Mildew on any variety here, and 1 only grow five Hvbrid Perpetuals, viz , Frau Karl Druschki, Marie Baumann, Horace Vernet, Louis van Hi utte, and A. K. Williams, and these last only because as yet we are short of reds in Hybrid Teas. Maman Cochet, White Maman Cochet, Souvenir de Pierre Notting, &o. , are no use here — they won't open. All Chinas do well, and most of the Ramblers. I do not like the colour of Mrs. Grant and Countess of Caltdor, and Souvenir deC. Guillotand Souvenir de J. B Guilloi are too weak in constitution to do well, but I miss the colour of both. Neither do I like droopers, such as Clara Watson, Bessie Brown, &c. " I have made these excerpts from this letter because I feel sure they will prove interesting to some of the many rosarians North of the Tweed who read The Garden. Such a list cannot fail to be helpful to those who intend making a collection of Roses suitable for a moist climate, as well as act as an encouragement to those who have not yet tested some of our modern varieties under the conditions mentioned. Of course, the autumn Rose shows of the National Rose Society have afforded the Scotch growers an excellent opportunity of demonstrating the revolution which the Hybrid Tea has made in our gardens of to-day ; indeed, one has only to glance through the list of varieties exhibited in the winning boxes to see that this class, as a whole, was pre-eminent at the last autumn exhibition. A friend who was present at this show told me — referring to the exhibition blooms — that among the Hybrid Teas six varieties in particular stood out before all others, v'z., Caroline Testout, Phaiitiier, Bi ene Guillot, Killarney, Souvenir du President Carnot, and the new J B. Clark. Several of these are quite new varieties, and it speaks well for them that they should be singled out for special praise by one who is a good judge of Roses. A. R. Goodwin. DAFFODIL NOTES. Which is the best label ? As long ago as the year 1880 (vide The Garden, Vol. XX., _ . page 126), the late Mr. G. F. Wilson oil'ered a prize for " a label which must be cheap and dur- able, must show legibly whatever is written or printed thereon, and must be suitable for plants in open border." No less than 150 labels were sent into the committee of judges appointed to examine the same, but despite this large number the prize was not awarded, because none was con- sidered deserving enough. From a description of the various det-igns which received commendation I should rather fancy that garden labels have made but slow progress in the twenty-five years which have intervened. It is of interest, however, to note that two of the exhibitors whose labels were com- mended were Mr. John Pinches and Mr. John Wood. I am led to make these observations by an enquiry from a correspondent who is anxious to know what is the label most gene- rally favoured by Daffodil growers. After having seen a great many collections and taken particular notice of the labels employed in each case, I have come to the conclusion that there is nothing to e.xcel Wood's Plant Club label. After repeatedly testing all sorts of other labels I have finally adopted it for the whole of my collection. It is unnecessary for me to describe the label, as its shape and general appearance can be seen in the sketch. It is made of zinc, and there- fore is practically im- perishable, and is quite easy to write upon. The ordinary size is Oi inches long, and the name plate 2| inches >: I4 inches ; the large size is 1-2 inches long, with the name plate 4 inches x 1| inches, and there is a small size which is speci- ally made for use in rock -gardens and pots, of which I do not know the dimensions. I find the ordinary size most suitable for Daffodils, and for a slightly extra cost it is possible to have the labels num bered with raised figures. It is my practice to rub the name plate lightly with emery paper before writing upon it. A special jJatinum ink is supplied with these labels, and a quill pen-nib should be used. After the labels have dried I wipe them over with a damp sponge in order to thoroughly cleanse them. The great value of these labels is in the fact that the writing lasts in good condition for a long period, and if an alteration is necessary or the ink has become faded, one has only to rub the name plate over with emery paper in order to be able to rewrite it. Probably the ideal label will never be invented, but so far this one is the nearest approach to it, and those readers of The Garden who have not yet tried it will, I feel sure, thank me for introducing to their notice such an indispensable garden adjunct. These labels may be obtained from Mr. J. H. Wood, whose address is Boston Spa, near Leeds. Considering their imperishable character, it will be found that the prices asked for them are distinctly moderate. A UsEFDL Tool.— When at Lowdham a few years ago, during the Daffodil season, I noticed that all the beds were kept well cultivated and free from weeds by means of an excellent little hand hoe or weeder (an illustration of which appears above) that Messrs. Pearson have had made to their own design. I purchased one, and have since found it simply invaluable. It has two cutting edges, one 2 inches long, the other only f inch For working amongst Daffodil seedlings and choice varieties, when they are already above ground, it is just the very- thing, and as its cost is only Is. 3d., I rather fancy that it will become a most popular tool when its great utility has been discovered by the general body of Daffodil growers. WoKK AND Weather. — Qp to the time of writing (the early part of January) the weather has proved unusually mild, and things like N. pallidus priecox and N. obvallaris are now well above ground, and look as if they would be earlier than usual. The importance of keeping the beds well hoed all through the winter and spring cannot be too strongly insisted upon. This, I know, is apt February 3, 1906,] THE GAiiDEJN. 71 to be neglected amongst a press of other work, | JASMINUM PKIMULINUM. so that the top soil gets sodden and beaten i This beautiful plant is now fairly well known, down with rain, and a few dry and windy i and has proved a considerable disappointment to days make it set so hard that the bulbs do many owing to its tenderness. It cannot, there- not get the full benefit of sun and air. Of i fore, be trusted in the open garden without course a hoe must necessarily be in careful protection, and we should treat it much in the hands when the bulbs are coming through in ! «a°i? ^*y *^ that remarkable Honeysuckle, the spring, or else more harm than good will Lomcera H.ldebrandti, which le only hardy in be done. Kidderminster. A. G. TREES AND SHRUBS. THE BUSH HONEYSUCKLES. BUSH HONEYSUCKLES are strangely neglected in gardens, and are seldom mentioned in the horticultural Press. I There is a wonderful collection at Lea Barres, as may be readily spen by con- sulting M. Maurice L. de Vilmorin's " Fruticetum Vilmorianum," a work full of interest to the lover of rare trees and shrubs. This may be seen in tke library of the Royal Horticultural Society, or obtained post free for nine francs (78 6d.) from the Revue Horticole Office, 26, Rue Jacob, Paris. The book contains some excellent illustrations, and the descriptive notes are, of course, in French. I have grown the beautiful Lonicera Morrowi for five or six years, making its acquaintance first of all at the Bith B itanic Garden, where it is one of the shrubs which annually afford a de- lightful display of flowers. Although it is as hardy as an Elm, there are very few nurseries which catalogue it, but I was able to procure it from Mr. Thomas Smith of Newry. I am reminded now of its value because on our light sandy soil it has grown so freely that we have lately been obliged to transplant it to a position where it will have a far better chance than it had in its original place. Few shrubs come into leaf so early and are so unaffected by the frosts and biting winds of early spring ; in fact, the hardiness of its tender-looking young leafage is always a matter of considerable surprise to me, as I have never known it to be injured in any way. The flowers, which are pro- duced in May in great profusion, are yellow and yellowish-white ; they vary a little in colour, and produce a most charm ingeflect on the plant, as they are borne in a graceful manner. A peculiar trait about this species is that it is inclined to bloom again in the autumn, and last year I had several fine sprays of it covered with flowers in September. L^ke its congener, Lonicera tatarica, L. Morrowi would make a pretty low hedge, and in this retpect its habit of early leafing would naturally make it of similar value to the first- named. The " Kew Hand List" describes it as from Japan, and also mentions Lonicera bella, a hybrid between tatarica and Morrowi, which ought to be worth growing. Perhaps someone who has it will tell me whether it is of value. By the way, I well remember seeing a beautiful plant in a collection labelled L. Alberti, and was so struck by it that I wrote to C'lombe Wood for it. The plant supplied me, however, bears no resemblance to that for which I was in search, in spite of the fact that it is true to name. The flowers of the plant I am seeking were, I believe, drooping, and deep rose or reddish in colour, while the leaves were greyish- green. Perhaps some- one can suggest its correct name ? I should like to know t. A. quite the Southern Counties. Jasminum primu linum has, however, one great use, and that is for flowering in a cool house under glass. Mr. Reynolds, gardener to Mr. Leopold de Rothschild, Gunnersbury House, Acton, showed a group of great beauty. The plants were over 5 feet high, and the graceful shoots were lined with the large yellow flowers, which in shape and colour remind one of those of the well-known Winter Jaamine (Jasminum nudiflorum). Our illustration is of one of the shoots from a plant shown by Mr. Rothschild. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. WHITE LATE DECORATIVE VARIETIES. OF late years there has been considerable L improvement in the character of I white decorative Chrysanthemums f for display throughout December and even later. The recent exhi- bition in Covent Garden was quite a revelation. Private growers must benefit by such an experiment, as prominence is given by these means to the more popular as well as the better sorts. Market growers — at least the more enterprising of them — have been testing the merits of many promising novelties for some years past, and in consequence quite an interest- ing list of good things have now to be made FLOWERING SHOOT OF JASMINUM PEIMnLINHM. (Slight reduction.) known. This short note simply deals with the better white sorts, of which there is now a goodly number. Western King — A free- flowering and easily-grown Japinese incurved variety uf loose build, pure white with greenish centre. Useful for either large or small blooms. Niveum. — Well known as a large pure white, with beautiful crisp florets when well grown. Mrs. A. Duncan. — This pretty, narrow-petalled sport from Niveum, of the purest white. Mrs. J. Thompson (sometimes spelt Thomson). One of the most popular of the whole series. Large Japanese incurved blooms of good quality and pleasing form. Free, oreamy-whiie. Mine. Phillipe Rivovre —This variety is not grown quite so freely as was the case a a year or two ago. It is a good creamy-white flower, and useful for late displays. ._. TheriSse Pankoucke.—¥or late December and January this Japanese reflexed flower of pure white has a special value. It is rather tall. Heston White.— this was exhibited as a pure white sport from Framfield Pink, and as such has a special value for December cutting. Good habit. Princess Victoria. — To be sesn at its best, this beautiful creamy-white flower of good form should be disbudded or partially so. It responds well to good culture, and is valuable for Christmas and later. Winter Queen.— An exceptionally late-flowering pure white sort. The flowers are rather small, but are charming when cut in sprays. The foregoing are Japanese varieties. A splendid white flower of incurved form, and distinctly the best white seen on this occasion, is the well-known exhibition variety Mrs. F. Judson. Highgate, X. D. B, Crane. 72 THE GARDENS. [Febrdaet 3, 19C6. NEW CHRYSANTHEMUMS. Thodgh each seat on we have had some beautiful introductions, especially those belonging to the Japanese section, I doubt if there has ever been a finer lot of novelties than those brought to the notice of the public during the year 1905, and most, if not all, will be distributed during the spring. I will give a description of those only which have come under my notice, and they will, I feel sure, be of the utmost value to competitors in the future. The magnificent varieties shown hy Mr. N. Davis at the National Show, the Rfiyal Horticultural Society's meeting at West- minster, and other parts of the country, which attracted so much attention, are probably the finest set he has ever offered. This says much for bis sound judgment as to what a typical Chrysanthemum should be. .Japanese. British Empire. — This is one of the finest Chrytanthemums of the year. Colour, orange and brorzB ; wtll-built flower, with broad florets, }V. Gooding (Godfrey). — Deep rosy pink ; a massive flower, very clear in colour, and of great depth. Misf Mary Godfrey (Godfrey). — Clear canary yellow ; somewhat similar lo Bessie Godfrey, but the florets are broader. Very promieiog. Mrs Franh Pi arse (Godfrey). — Yellow-tinted cinnamon, lilie M. Chenon de Leche in general form. A beautiful flower. Mrs. B. Laxlon (Godfrey). — Deep blood red, with long, broad, flat florets. A good addition lo the reds. Mrs Waiter Jinks (Godfrey). — Bright reddish rose ; a refiexing Japanei^e of pleasing colour. John Peed (Peed). — White, flushed with lilac. Although not an ideal flower, this will probably be sought after for its great size. I Joseph Bocher (Calvat). — Reflexed Japanese, I with perfectly-shaped flowers ; orange, shaded with rosy red. Kathleen Stoop (Jones). — A large white, with long florets ; very promising. B Kenyon (Jones). — Clear yellow, shaded red. This is a rtfined flower and has drooping florets. COLOURED PLATE. PINKS AND ROSBa IN A MIDLAND GARDEN. and perfectly distinct. Will make a grand exhi- bition flower, either for boards or vases. Mrs. R. Hooper- Pearson. — This is a charming flower, possessing great depth and good finish. Colour, pale yellow, shaded chestnut. Norman Davis — Somewhat resembles Henry Perkins, but is in every way superior. A brilliant red and gold. The florets are of good substance. This variety should be in the hands of all who are looking for good novelties. Leiejh Park Wonrler. — A very large and attrac- tive flower ; a particularly dark variety, and distinct novelty. Sidney Penforel. — This variety somewhat re- sembles Mrs. K. W. Vallis. A large and most graceful flower ; colour, terra-cotta red. A novelty of ereat promise. The Mikado has long, narrow florets of a rich, deep crimson. A refined flower ; should become a great favourite. The above are being distributed by Mr. Norman Davis. Mrs. A. T. Miller (Jones). — A pure white in- curved Japanese, resembling Miss Elsie Foulton, but larger and finer. Maijnijieent (Silsbury). — ^ Velvety crimson, with very long, narrow florets. This is a choice flower, larg", and of fine form. Mrs J. A. Miller {WeUs). — Colour, rosy terra- cotta ; florets long and loose. iNCnRVED. C. J. Ellis (Jones). — Bronzy red ; a large, massive flower of fine form. Connie Janiieson (D.ivis). — A splendid flower, of fine form ; cilour, an attractive pink. Frank Trestiaii (Divis). — A fine flower, with smooth florets ; the form is exceptionally good, and the colour a bright amber. J. O. Shrimplon (Davis). — A beautiful flower, of bright golden colour. Ood/rey's Eclipse. — Clear cinary yellow, with broader florets than Charles H. Curtis. Elstree. E. Beckett. PLATE 1291. NEW SWEET PEAS. DURING the last decade a large number k of new Sweet Peas have been intro- 1 duced, nor does the annual output I of novelties show any sign of ' decreasing ; indeed, last year brought with it more new Sweet Peas than any previous year. Owing to the fact that novelties are not alwaj's real improvements, but are generally very expensive, only a small proportion of my readers will have yet tried the 1905 introductions. All true lovers of the Sweet Pea, however, will be interested to know the chaiacter of these varieties, and those who have been fortunate enough to grow them themselves will have the pleasure of comparing their ex- perience with that of one who, in addition to growing the novelties in his own garden, has also watched them in those of others. In the first place, it must reluctantly be admitted that, unlike 1904, when Scarlet G>m was distributed, and 1903, when Dorothy Eckford and King Edward VII. were distributed, 1905 brought with it no novelty so far in advance of all existing ones as were the three mentioned above. In spite of this, however, last year's introductions included several which were certainly worthy of comparison with any previously introduced, for Bolton's Pink, Romolo Piszzani, David R. Williamson, Gladys Unwin, and the various Countess Spencer sports are quite in the front rank of their respective sections. Bolton's Pink is a truly magnificent variety, and will certainly become popular. It is chiefly noticeable for its enormous size, for it is one of the largest Sweet Peas grown. Its standard is very well formed, and its bold- ness and uprightness seem to accentuate its great size. The colour is a beautiful deep pink slightly shaded with orange, and is not unlike that of Miss Will- mott. Like the latter also, it fcorches in the sun, and exhibitors who wish to display it to per- fection find it necessary to shade it. As a rule, each stem bears three flowers, but several bearing four appeared last year. Bolton's Pink is of strong growth, tho stems in particular being very stout and long. No one will { make a mistake in adding this to his collection. It cannot be pretended that RoMOLo PiAZZANi has given absolute satisfac- tion, but this is largely due to the fact that so much was expected of it. It certainly is an excellent variety, and although it somewhat resembles Emily Eckford in colour, it will be very useful in the blue section. Its early growth is weak, but when it is about a foot high it seems to become as vigorous as almost any variety. With the writer it began to bloom about the middle of June, and continued to give an abundant supply of blossoms until the middle of October, the plants by that time being 10 feet high. The flowers are generally produced three at a time on long stout stems, which last year frequently exceeded 15 inches in length. Romolo Piazzini is reasonable in size and in shape excellent, the standard in particular being beautifully formed. When the blossoms first open their colour is more raauve than blue, but after a few hours it develops into about the truest blue which has J'ebruary 3, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 73 yet been produced in the Sweet Pea. There | is, however, still much room for improvement i in this direction. David R. Williamson is a very good variety and has given great satisfaction. It generally bears at least three blooms on very long, stout stems. The size and shape are excellent, and its dark blue colour ia among the finest shown by .Sweet Peas. On first opening, the standard is bluish purple, but, like Romolo Piazzini, the colour soon becomes more like a true blue. The wings are a beautiful shade of blue. Although David R. Williamson is a very strong grower, it seems to be rather liable to be attacked by disease. When in its true form, however, it is equal to anv in its section. Black Michael is certainly a new shade of maroon, but except in large collections it will never be very widely grown, for it is very un- i likely to supersede Black Knight or Othello. I There is less purple in it than in either of the j latter, but it is not so dark and intense. The I growth of Black Michael seems to be far less | vigorous than that of most varieties. It 1 must not be thought, how- ever, that dwarfness in habit is a step in the wrong direc- tion ; but, in this case, dwarfness is accompanied by a shortness of stem which is to be deprecated. The shape of the flowers is excellent, and the size is fairly satisfactory, but the stems seldom bear more than two flowers. This latter fact, however, is somewhat counter- balanced by the floriferousness of the variety. Of all last year's novelties, none were advertised BO widely as Gladys Unwin, and none, I believe, were grown so widely. Undoubtedly it is excellent, and except for Countess Spencer, which in shape, siza and form, it so closely resembles, it might probably have been the best pink variety of last year. The latter, however, is more beauti- fully coloured than Gladys Unwin, and for that reason must be accorded the first position in the pink section. Gladys Unwin is a lighter shade of pink than Cjuntess Spencer, and it is rather liable to fade in colour when cut. Dora Brbadmoee seems to be a fairly good variety, but it does not possess any great merit, and will never rise to any very high rank. Its shape, size, and growth are satisfactory, but its colour, pale bufi', is rather nondescript. Lady Aberdarb is another variety which will never become popular, and will probably soon be dropped, for although its colour is good, being a beautiful shade of pink, its size is insignificant. It has no chance of success in competing against ■Countess Spencer. Florence Molynbux, the new rose flaked variety, when in true form, is good, but its colour seems very variable, and leaves much to be desired. It does not seem likely to supersede America, Aurora, and Jessie Cuthbertson. New Pale Blue Sweet Peas — Mrs. George HIgginson, Flora N jrton, and Miss Philbrick — are certainly advances in colour, but are compara- tively small, and will not, I imagine, be widely grown. At the same time, those who grow them will certainly find them beautiful. Mrs. H Kendal Barnes is a moderately sized apricot-coloured variety. It is certainly very beautiful, but is hardly up to the highest standard of exhibition Sweet Peas. For decora- tion, however, it is excellent. In addilinn to those already mentioned, several other new varieties were distributed last year, but none of them seem to have been of sufficient merit to deserve mention here. Those I have described will satisfy most of my readers. The novelties that are being distributed this year (1906) are m )re numerom even than last year. Aa I have had opportunities of judging the merits of many of the best of them, I will try to advise my readers which to choose. The four varieties that I shall mention first are undoubtedly improvements on any other vatieties in commerce. Henry Eckford is the variety of which I wish to write first, for it may safely be said to be the novelty of the season. It ia very free, vigorous, and its colour is very beautiful. Perhaps it can best be described as a deep orange salmon. There is certainly no other Sweet Pea anything like it, and it can truly be said to be a great advance Its siz') and shape are also excellent. This variety has been admired wherever it has been shown, and has received the award of merit of the Royal Horticultural Society, and in 1904, society. Its colour is roee magenta flushed with crimson. Sybil Eckford is a new decorative variety showing a mixture of pink and cream. It is very beautiful, and seems-lo possess every merit except size. Unfortunately it is comparatively small. Evelyn Byatt is a handsome flower some- what resembling Gorgeous, but of more brilliant colour. It is certainly one of the most showy of all Sweet Peas. Both this and the last-mentioned variety will be popular with those who do not consider size to be one of the chief points of a Sweet Pea. Phyllis Unwin is a rosy carmine form of Gladys Unwin, but seems to bear a very strong rcFemblance to John Ingman. Helen Pierce is bright blue, mottled on a white ground. The mottlings are very evenly distributed, but are not in the form of stripes. Beacon is a carmine and cream bicolour of good shape and size. Mrs. Hardcastlb Sykes is a self pink selection from Countess Spencer, and will probably be heard cf in the future. It is too A GARDEN OF PINKS. Mr. Eckford, its raiser, received for it the medal which the Nitional Sweet Pea Society gives each year for the best novelty. I think, however, that the'best that can be said for it is that it, of all Sweet Peas, is most deserving to bear the honoured name that has been given to it. Queen Alexandra is a variety closely resembling Scarlet Gem, but Eckford states that it does not scorch in the sun. Those of my readers who havn grown the latter variety in the South or centre of England, and who consequently know how bidly it offends in this respect, will welcome this novelty. Helbv Lewis and John Ingman are two exceedingly beautiful varieties of the Countess Spencer form, and, as they are quite equal to the Kliter in size, they are certain to be well received. Helen Lewis was awarded the Sweet Pea Society's medal last year. Tho colour of the standard is a rich orange salmon, and the wings rose-shided orange. In 190-t, John Ingman received the first-class certificate of the same soon to speak authoritatively, but it seems to be an excellent variety. The last of the varieties being distributed this year that I shall mention is CoDSALL Rose, a large rose-coloured variety, shading towards the centre to a much lighter colour. G. F. Drayson. BORDERS OF PINKS. I ENCLOSE two photographs of borders of Pinks 80 yards long which you may think of sufficient interest for The Garden. The borders are quite a sight in June. The background is mostly of tree Lupins ; the Saxifragas round the central bed of Pinks are in bloom, but as the flowers are a bright yellow, the photograph gives no idea of their rich colouring. Kegworth, Derby. L. M. Bedfoed. 74 THE GARDEN. [Febkuaky 3, 1906. GARD8NING FOR BSGINNSRS. PRUNING VINES IN UNHEATED VINERIES.— This work should now be done. If it is left any longer the sap will be rising, and the Vines when cut will bleed, that is to say, there will be a considerable loss of sap through the out portion. The portion of the Vine to be pruned is that which bore fruit last year. Next year's fruit will be produced on shoots tha.t have still to grow. The bunches of Grapes are produced by the young green shoots, consequently the object of the grower is to have these shoots as strong as possible. To achieve this end the growths made last year, which are now hard and brown and matured, are cut back with the pruning-knife, leaving only the two lowest buds at the base of each shoot. During the spring one or both of these buds will burst into growth. Unless there are exceptional circumstances it is best to leave only one of the shoots, rubbing off the other before it has made much progress. Before doing so, however, examine them to see which one bears a bunch of Grapes ; this can easily be seen when the shoot is quite young. If each shoot bears a bunch then select the one bearing the finer bunch, one is almost certain to be better than the other. If neither shoot has fruit then rub o£f the weaker one. In due course the shoot will develop leaves, and the bunch will become more easily recognisable. When two leaves have formed beyond the bunch the shoot should be stopped, thit is to say, the point of growth should be pinched out with the thumb and finger. The object of doing this is to make the Vine develop its fruit instead of more leaves. A certain number of large healthy leaves are necessary to enable the Vine to develop its fruit, but when the Vine is grown under such artificial conditions as obtain in a glass house, where space is neces- sarily restricted, some of the leaves must be sacrificed. The practice of stopping the shoot two leaves beyond the bunch is found to be the best both for the Vine and for the development of its fruit. This will cause a number of side-shoots, called sub-laterals to form ; these must be stopped when they have made one or two leaves, according to the space at disposal. At the next winter pruning (in January, 1907) the shoots which will bear fruit this year will of course have become hard and brown, and they in their turn will be cut back to the two lowest buds. The better of the two shoots from these will bear fruit in the summer of 1907. It is thus a question of inducing the Vine to produce strong growths and fruit one year by catting hard back the shoots that bore fruit the previous year. It is important that the basal buds shall be as plump and well developed as possible ; stopping I he Vine two leaves beyond the bunch helps to ensure this. A partial cutting back of the shoots after the fruit is gathered is also recommended by some as tending still further to strengthen the basal buds. Making Hot-heds. — These are exceedingly useful, and, in the country, where the leaves can easily be obtained, they are economical. But to hold the leaves together in making up the beds a little fresh stable manure is desirable. Having the command of boih manure and leaves, we usually use both in equal quantities, thoroughly mixed to- gether, and leave them to ferment a few days before making up the beds. The beds should be 1 foot larger on all sides than the frames. Thus a frame 6 feet wide will require a bed 8 feet wide. The bed should be firmly built by treading the dif- ferent layers as they are placed one on the other ; otherwise it may settle unevenly. If built loosely, the fermentation will be rapid, and per- SIMPLE HINTS. haps the heat will be violent at first and cool as object being to keep growths near branches and rapidly. A loosely-built bed encloses a good induce spur formation. N, branch with eharac- deal of air, which causes violent heat. The ' teristio growths ; h, basal bud ; c, incipient pressure given to the beds regulates the tempera- spurs ; d, perfected spur with blossom-bud at- ture. In a bed made fairly firm the heat is apex ; e, short, stubby shoot usually forming, steady and lasting, but a loosely-made bed is too spurs in following summer ; /", short shoot, inter- hot for anything for some time, and then rapidly mediate between a spur and growth — terminated cools. The beginner will thus see how important it is to build the bed with reasonable firmness. After the bed is finished, put on the frame, and if this is a deep one, the inside of the bed may be raised to bring the plants near the glass. For ordinary purposes at this season the bed should be 4 feet high. For Cucumbers and Melons make it a little higher. Leave a thermometer in the bed to test its temperature. Pruning the Apple (Winter). — Characteristic Leafless Growths. — H, fruitful spur ; q, blossom- bud from which fruit is produead ; r, side buds forming future spurs for, bear- ing ; I, short shoot termi- nated by a fruit - bud ; s, blossom - bud ; t, wood - buds likely to form spurs in fol- lowing sum- mer ; tt, point of pruning if desired to originate a growing shoot tor furnishing the tree — this, of course, pre- vents bearing for some time. J, an exten- sion growth terminated by a blossom- bud ; i', fruit- bud, a peculiar mode of bear- ing in some varieties. K, an incipient spur; w , terminal bud, probably de- veloping in following summer into a blossom - bud ; I X, side buds usually form- ing spurs. L, Short, stubby shoot with wood-buds ; y, buds usually developi n g spurs in fol- lowing sum- mer ; z, basal buds c om - monly remain- ing dormant, called latent. M, side shoot from a branch not pinched in summer; a, pointof winter pruning, the by a fruit-bud ; g, side shoots shortened to two buds ; h, continual ion of branch growth shortened to point desired for originating growths to furnish, tree with branches for bearing or filling vacant spaces ; i, continuation shoot ; j, side shoots — if not so desired growth left intact. 0, a pinched side shoot, winter pruned ; /.■, bud started, and not desirable as a pruning bud ; I, buds plump, and likely to form spurs in following season ;; m, basal bud, not usually starting into growth the next spring, but remaining latent. P, branch in very desirable state (N h, not shortened) ; n, a shortened side shoot, having in previous year PRUNING THE APPLE (WINTER). February 3, 1906.] THE GARDEN /.-> (N g) formed spurs ; o, spurs ; p, continuation shoot; l = ODe year, 2 = two year, and 3 = three years' old wood. Q, three years' old wood (N as far as g) ; q, basal bud ; r, spurs having formed blossom-buds ; s, spur that fruited previous summer and sido buds developed into incipient spurs ; t, short shoot having formed two blossom- buds and three incipient spurs ; u, shoot inter- mediate between a spur and a shoot which has fruited and developed two spurs with blossom- bud and three incipient spurs ; v, points of shortening when desired to keep spurs near branch — this is best done after the fruit is gathered ; w, shortened side shoots, having formed spurs. R, extremity of branch with fruit-buds at points ; x, bloasom-buds ; y, growth with wood-buds usually developing into spurs the following season ; z, two years' old wood ; this is a common mode of bearing with some varieties, and with most when the trees are fully grown. Violas. — Many do not know what to do with their old plants of Violas or tufted Pansies in the spring. During the winter they have looked very straggling and untidy, and seemed to have little good left in them. It is a pity to throw them away, however, unless you have a good stock of young ones to put out in their places, and even then it would be a pity, because the plants will flower very well indeed the second year, better sometimes, in fact, than they do the first. In the month of March cut back the long straggling growths right to the base from where the young growths are seen to be starting. The removal of all the old shoots will leave the ground comparatively clear, and allow of its being forked and manured. Well-decayed manure should be used and should be forked in. The display the old plants will make the next eummer will surprise those who have been in the habit of throwing them away after the first season. A Shade-loving Plant is the Japanese Anemone, one of the loveliest flowers of the garden in August and September. Plants which have bdoome quite established produce flower stems 3 feet high, bearing a profusion of their lovely white flowers. There are varieties of pink and other shades of colour. The only way to make this plant flower well is not to disturb it. Usually the first year after planting it flowers very indifferently, or not at all. But the next and succeeding seasons it will produce an abundance of flowers. The woody root-stock dislikes being transplanted and does not readily re-establish itself. A charming companion plant to the Japanese Anemone is the scarlet Lobelia, which produces its spires of bright scarlet flowers at the same time. If planted among the Anemones a delightful flower association will result. The roots of this Lobelia should not be left in the ground throughout the winter ; they should be lifted in November and placed in a box covered with soil, storing them in a frost-proof shed or room. Pruning Banibling Hoses. — It will soon be time to think about pruning the strong-growing rambling Roses that are covering poles, pergolas, arbours, &c. Those which were planted early last year or late in 1904 will need practically no pruning at all. During the summer of 1905 they made their long, strong growths that this year will bear flowers. There will be no shoots to thin out, and all that the pruner must do is to cut back the ends of the shoots so far as they appear to be soft, green, and sappy. This may be anything from a few inches to a foot. The time to prune this class of Roses is as soon as they have finished blooming.. la young plants — planted only two or three years, say— it is not advisable to cut out all the growths which have flowered unless there are plenty of other strong ones showing at the base, otherwise there would be very few left. Those that are left will flower the next summer upon the lateral or side shoots if these are spurred back in the spring. But that is the principle to work upon, namely, cutting out the growths which have flowered, so as to make room for and encourage younger ones which flower better. Beginners often fail to recognise the fact that climbing and rambling Roses flower best and chiefly upon the shoots that grew during the preceding summer ; it therefore follows that, unless some good growths were made during the preceding summer, there would be none to flower. And it stands to reason that the young shoots will grow much more satisfactorily if the old ones which have flowered are removed. Even during the summer-time one must look forward to the next year. When a strong growth has flowered, and you notice another promising shoot starting from the base of the plant that will eventually take its place, cut out the old one. As previously stated, discrimination must be used. Some varie- ties send up strong growths from the base more freely than others do. One is obliged to retain the old growths and obtain blossoms from their side shoots with some varieties. The pruner must judge by the appearance of each individual as to how many of the old shoots he can afford to cut away, or whether he ought to out out any at all. Pruning Dwarf Poses. — We shall not now go into details as to the pruning of dwarf bush or standard Roses, because it is too early to think of pruning them now. What we wish to point out is that while the climbing and rambling Roses bear their blossoms on the growths of last year, the dwarfs and standards which are hard pruned flower on the current year's shoots — that is to say, upon the shoots which have yet to grow. This, of course, makes all the difference in their pruning. The dwarfs are cut back hard, so as to induce fresh shoots to grow and bear flowers as they develop ; with the climbers the shoots must grow and mature the first year and flower the next. Antirrhinums for Massing. — Where economy has to be studied and there are bare borders Antirrhinums in separate colours are very useful. We like the self colours best, and if the seeds have been carefully saved the whites, yellows, and crimsons come very true from seeds. If these are sown now under glass they will be ready to go out early in May, and will be in flower as soon as other tender bedding plants. We generally sow outside in sandy soil in Sep- tember, and the plants raised usually pass through the winter safely. They flower continuously through the summer and autumn till frost comes. We usually cut off the seed-pods, as they check the flowering and give the mass a rather unkempt appearance. Lilies. — Lily bulbs should be planted as soon as they are received ; if left exposed to the air they become limp and lose a good deal of their vitality. They must not be lifted and kept in bags during the winter, like such bulbs as Gladiolus, which are hard, and are all the better for being stored during the winter months. Lily bulbs are best left in the soil. The surface of the ground where they are planted may be covered over with bracken, leaves, or strawy litter to keep off as much wet as possible. It is just as well to take up some of the more tender sorts and store them in pots of soil, but the majority do best if left in the ground. Pruning Familiar Shrubs. — The Winter Sweet (Chimonanthus fragrans) is a favourite winter- flowering shrub, and there is no garden too small to have a plant of it, for it makes an ideal wall shrub. Its brown and yellow blossoms are now open, and their fragrance fills the air close by. This is one of the most charming of our winter flowers. Unless, however, its manner of bloom- ing is considered at pruning-time, the flowers will be few. The Winter Sweet bears its blossoms upon the growths made the previous summer. As soon as the flowers are over, the shoots that produce them must be cut hard back, so as to force the buds at the base to develop shoots that will produce flowers the following winter. The Winter Jasmine (Jasminum nudi- florum) also bears its flowers upon the preceding year's wood, and must also be cut back after flowering-time, to induce other shoot? to form which, when developed and ripened, will burst into bloom the following winter. THE FRUIT GARDEN. F PEOFITABLE GOOSEBEKKIES. OR some years we rarely had a good crop of Gooseberries. The trees were young and healthy ; but grown as bushes, and with an insufficient system of protection, the birds played sad havoc. Gooseberry trees grown in bush form are difficult to protect from small birds. It is not so much loss of fruit as loss of buds, with the result that there is little fruit to lose, and the bushes after a few seasons grow ungainly. Some ten or twelve years ago we placed wire netting over the trees, the latter being trained to wires. Most of the trees have half-a-dozen leaders from the base, and grown thus they give little trouble. The trees are spurred in every season, and the leaders extended according to the room at com- mand, and it is surprising what enormous crops have been produced yearly and from a small space. The wire and poles were paid for after the third season, and I should add the trees are remarkably healthy. There is a space of 6 feet between the rows, and manure is given annually in the winter. I am aware all may not have as suitable a spot to cover in as described here; such places as low north or east walls answer admirably, as it is an easy matter to net the trees in the winter if birds are troublesome. Last season I saw a rough wooden fence covered with trees grown as cordons ; the owner told me it was the most profitable piece in the whole garden. G. W. S. THE DISAPPOINTING APEICOT. What a useful fruit the Apricot is ! How delicious in tarts, in preserve, or for dessert, and with it all how disappointing I We get a young tree in the pink of condition from a nursery, plant it with due care against a sunny wall, and give it everything which according to experts the Apricot requires. All things go well for a time, the tree flourishes to our satisfaction, and we think that we have discovered the secret of Apricot culture. Then all at once and without any apparent reason a big branch dies away this year, another the next, and so on. As a cure some advise one thing, some another ; but still Apricot branches die away, and one person after another gives up attempting to grow the fruit at all. The most tantalising part of it is that after giving up Apricots as a hopeless case one may often see a tree entirely covering a wall or front of a house with not a bare space in it. It has no particular treatment or attention, and yet it thrives and is fruitful. We say that the situa- tion suits it, or there is something in the soil that it likes. There can be no doubt that the Apricot is a fruit of likes and dislikes, but there are not many places where it succeeds to perfection. On the brashy soils of the Cotswold Hills in Gloucestershire I have seen some fine Apricot trees on houses and buildings, and one of the finest examples of Apricot culture on walls to be seen in the country may be found at Sherborne Park, the home of Lord Sherborne, situated in the Cotswold country. Here a high kitchen garden wall is covered from end to end with giant Apricot trees, many of which are real patriarchs. Heavy crops of magnificent fruits are 70 THE UARDEiN. [Februaky 3, Ibt 6. obta'reil, and there are few bare claces caused by 1 be dying away of braoches. Nuw and then an old tree begins to exude gum, but the wound is promptly covered with a mixture of clay and cow manure, covered with moss, and kept moist, the result of this being that the young, fresh bark commences to grow and the wound dis- app^ara. In Oxfordshire, again, and some parts of Wirwickehire, Apricots thrive well. It appaars that the matter must remain a question •cf soil and situation, or both, for no one has yet lean able to devise a remedy for the prevention of the collapse of branches and trees in places where they are prone to it. H. SELECTIONS OF APPLES. Those who attended the autumn fruit show in Ojtober and were present at the first day's con- ference heard a eeleetion (a very limited one) of Apples recommended. Many there desired to know the best sorts to plant for various soils and situations. When I heard the list read I could not help thinking how disappointing some of these sorts would be in some soils com- pared to others, and I am of the opinion that a list of, say, a d^ z-sn varieties of Apples is not suitable to all soils. The same holds good of Pears. The soil I now have to deal with is a retentive loam, often being under water from the river. The situation is low. The soil in Hints was of a light sandy nature, resting on gravel. On this Wellington, Newton Wonder, Gloria Mundi, Cellini, Lord SuiBeld, and several others throve well, and there was no canker. I remember that several speakers at the con- ference strongly recommended Newton Wonder, and I have seen excellent fruits of it in various other places. A long list is unnecessary ; what is wanted is information upon sorts that will grow in various soils and situations. F