LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE NO. Zi_o_5_^. -DATE..n-jB_QjL_ 0% The Garden ] [December 29, 1906. The Gardek.] [Deckmber 29, 190j Photograph ba Jfauli and Fox. Professor Isaac Bayley Balfour, M.A., D.Sc, M.D., LL.D., F.R.S., V.M.H. Thb Gardbn.] [December 29, 1906 AN Illustrated Weekly Journal OF Horticulture in all its Branches. Founded by W, Robinson in 1871. VOL. LXX. CHRISTMAS, 1906. lou\:dos\;. Office: 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, W.C. Published by "COUNTRY LIFE," Ltd., 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C, and by GEORGE NEWNES, Ltd., 3-12, Southampton Street, Strand. Thb Garden.] ^ [Decbmbbb 29, 1906. Q,. \io- TO PROFESSOR ISAAC BAYLEY BALFOUR THE SEVENTIETH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN" Is dedicated. PROFESSOR ISAAC BAYLEY BALFOUR is the distinguished son of a distinguished father, who, also, did eminent service to botany and horticulture ; he was born in Edinburgh on March 31, 1853. He was educated at Edinburgh Academy, passing thence to the University of the same city, and subsequently continuing his college course at Strassburg and Wurzburg. Among his earliest public botanical work was that as a member of the Transit of Venus expedition to the Island nf Rodriguez in 1874, his botanical researches there being recorded in his publication of "The Botany of Rodriguez" in 1878. In 1879 his abilities were recognised by his appointment to his father's former chair of the Regius Professorship of Botany in Glasgow University, a post he filled with great ability until 1884, when he became Sherardian Professor of Botany and a Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford. In 1888 he left Oxford to fill another of his father's chairs — that of Professor of Botany in the University of Edinburgh, the position he at present so ably occupies, along with those of King's Botanist for Scotland and Regius Keeper of the Royal Botanic Garden, Edinburgh. In 1880 Professor Bay ley Balfour explored the Island of Socotra, and the results of that expedition have proved of high value, not only to botany, but also to horticulture. He published his "Botany of Socotra" in J 888, and several of the plants he discovered on the island have become of great value in gardens. The most valuable of these at the present time is Begonia socotrana, which has practically revolutionised the cultivation of the Begonia, and is of the utmost value to hybridisers. It has been one of the parents of many of our most useful Begonias, and it is only necessary to name Gloire de Lorraine as one of the hybrids derived from B. socotrana to justify this remark, although there are many others in cultivation. Other plants of horticultural value discovered by Professor Balfour are the handsome Hibiscus Seotti, a yellow- flowered species, which has a distinct future before it ; the pretty biennial Exacum affine, whose blue-purple flowers are so useful in the warm greenhouse ; and Anisotes diversifolius, a pretty Acanthad which will prove acceptable to gardeners. Two plants which bear the name of their discoverer must also be named. These are the handsome white Crinum Balfourii, whose only fault is that of being difficult to grow after a few years' cultivation, and a very beautiful Adiantum (A. Balfourii), which is so pleasing that it ought to be taken up by nurserymen and popularised. There are a number of other plants, some of botanical rather than of garden value, among them being the Cucumber Tree (Dendrosicyos socotrana). Horticulture in Scotland has gained much through Professor Balfour's energy, knowledge and taste. Since the administration of the Edinburgh Royal Botanic Garden passed into his hands the establishment has been almost entirely remodelled and put in line with the most advanced public gardens as far as funds ^^■ill allow. Many structural extensions have been made, and new houses erected for the accommodation of special subjects, while the collections of plants have been extended and systematised. Professor Balfour holds the Victoria Medal of Honour in horticulture. Vol. LXX.] [" The Garden," December 39, 1906. INDEX A. Acetylene gas in greenhouse, 234, 235 ; refuse, 220 .(Ethionemas, some Oriental, 16 Agapanthus, 132 Ageratum Princess Pauline, 175 Agriculture, Imperial Department of, 271 Allamanda grandiilora, 114 Alpine flora, the disappearing, 147 Alstrcemeria aurea, 100 American blight, 36 Ampelopsis collapsing, 95 Anchusa, a new, 21 ; italica var., 12 Anemone japonica, 12; and vars., 237; Mont Rose, 223 Anemones, 142, 289 Annual flowers for autumn sowing, 109 ; at Reading, 164 Annuals, self-sown, 118 ; and biennials, 69 Anopteris glandulosa, 41 Antirrhinum Guinea Gold, 235 Antirrhinums, 10 Ants, destroying, 99 Apple Annie Elizabeth, 16 ; Hanwell Soui-ing, 16 ; Miller's Seedling, 187 ; tree, fruitless, 220 ; trees, planting, 208 Apples, 34 ; for profit, 177 ; keeping badly, 223 ; storing, 212, 260, 295 ; and Pears, storing, 232 Apricots, 34, 142, 242 Aquilegia stellata, 16 Artichokes, 194, 230 Artificial light, flowers by, 257 Asparagus, 58, 218 ; decorative, 158 ; forcing, 84 ; Sprengeri, 171 Aspidistra, 23 ; with variegated foliage, 107 Aspidistras, poor, 143 Aster, Chinese, the single, 188 Asters, Chinese, single, 210, 222; late- sown, 178 ; (Michaelmas Daisies) 194 Auricula, the, 76, 163 Autumn foliage, 235 Avenue planting, 95 Azara dentata, 33 Baden-Baden, flower show at, 247 Baker, Mr, T. G., J. P., 38 Ballantine, Mrs., 98 Bamboos, 12 70 Banff, MacDuff, gift to, 283 Bank, sloping, plants for, 219 Barberries, 37, 241 Barnham Nurseries, Limited, the, 230 Barrie, Mr. , presentation to, 187 Basic slag on lawn grass, 95 Beans, 46, 106, 156 ; French, 219 ; runner, 11 Bedding plants, 301 ; in frames, 241 ; pro- pagating, 155 Beds, spring, 71 Bee plants, 270, 294 Beet, 70 Begonia, Triomphe de Nancy, 77 ; worthi- ana, hybrids of, 110 Begonias, Bearded, the, 198; frilled, Black- more and Langdon's, 233 ; increasing tuberous, 291 ; insect on, 184 ; Peed's tuberous, 155 ; tuberous-rooted, 181 ; winter-flowering, 233 Bellflower, the tall, as a wall plant, 167 Berberis, 37 ; Thunbergi, 241 Birds and the fruits, 187 Biennials and annuals, 69 Blancard Fund, 282, 294 ** Blanket" Weed in ponds, 1, 14 Bluebell Tree, 136 Bluebells, naturalising, 139 Border, colour scheme for, 242 ; dry, plants for, 71 ; facing north, 182 ; planting, 206, 231 ; plants, 71 Borders, mixed, 125 ; shady, planting, 249 Botanic Gardens, Edgbastou, Binningham, 86 Botanical interest, an exhibition of, 172 Broccoli, 106, 195, 290 ; late, 62 ; some valuable, 55 ; purple sprouting and snake millipedes, 234 Brambles, 170 ; American, 59 Bridal Wreath, 283 Broom, a late flowering, 163 Brush bush, the, 101 Bulbous flowers for the home, 293 ; plants for autumn planting, 161 Bulbs, beautiful beds of, 189 Bunyard and Co., Messrs. George, 236 Burbank from an American point of view, 210 Burbank's novelties, their cultivation in England, 188 C. Cabbage, 70; early, Sutton's April, 76 Cabbages, 94, 142, 206 ; failing, 24 Calanthes, deciduous, 206 ; hybrid, 82 Calla (Richardia) Mrs. Roosevelt, 65 Callistephus hortensis, 188 Cambridge Botanic Garden Syndicate, annual report, 3 Campanula velutina, 122 Campanulas, 35, 105 Canada, plants from, 230 Cannell and Sons, Messrs. H., 266 Capsicums and how to grow them, 261 Cai-michaelia flagelliformis, 199 Carnation, burst calyx, 23; new, Clarence Aylward, 117 ; new border, Mrs. Kearley, 163; Mrs. L. E. Best, 102; Mrs. H. Bimiett, 295 ; Progress, 77 ; seedling, Heulwen 122 ; The Master and Mrs. Kearley, 117; time, 49; white seedling, 155 Carnations, 118, 187 ; American Tree, 195 ; the best border, 147 ; border, 248, 262, 271; seedling, 63; exhibiting, 118; failing, 183 ; layering, 45 ; Marguerite, 234 ; and Picotees in paper collars, 50 ; in the open, 263 ; seedling, 155 ; winter-flower- ing, 233 ; English-raised, 103 Carnivorous plants, 141, 163 Carrot, a valuable forcing. Carter's Golden Ball, 76 ; fly, 84 Carrots, 22, 156, 242 Cassia corymbosa, 210; and Lapageria flowers from the open garden, 222 Cattleya gaskelliaua Scampston Hall vars. 83 ; Harrisonffi, 22 ; house, the, 194 : Kitty Measures, 246; Loddigesii, 22: percivaliana, 265 ; superba, 105 ; Triance, 265 Cattleyas, 103 Cauliflowers, 94, 182 Cedar cones, 291 Celery, 94, 118, 206, 254 Centaurea, increasing, 184 Chalk soil, a garden on, 212 ; plants on, 254 Charities, the gardening, 14 Cheal and Sons, Messrs. ,T., 170 Chedingtou Court, Crewkerne, notes from, 201 Cherry, Morello, the, 58 Cherries, falling, 95 ; Morello, 11 ; on walls, 242; standard and bush, 5 Chervil, 46, 278 Chester, Mr. William, the late, 62 Choisya ternata, 235 Christmas flowers, packing, 297 Christmas R^Dses, 297 Chrysanthemum, seedling. Autumn Glory, 222; buds, hard, 290; early, the, 209; early • flowering, Carrie, 110; Etoile Blanche, 198 ; F6e .Taponais. 199 ; Perle Chatillonaise, 198 ; Polly, 146 ; leaves attacked by Celery fly, 71 ; maximum, 54 ; time, in, 209 Chi-ysanthemums, 12 ; at Battersea Park, 270 ; at Merstham, 292 ; at Ravenscourt Park, 2S2 ; Japanese, best twenty-five, 247 ; decorative (Japanese), 179, 260 ; propagating, 243, 278 ; early, at St. Leonards-on-Sea, 223; at Merstham, 193; securing the buds. 111 ; show of. Evening New ft. 98 Clematis Anderson Henryi, 90; and the best vars., the, 129 Clematises, 27 ; dying, 118 Clerodendron trichotomum, 130 Clethra arborea, 33, 50 Clianthus Dampieri, 137 ; puniceus, 137 Climbers, deciduous fragrant greenhouse, 207 Clivias, 59 ; flowering twice, 12 Cockchafer, 291 Codouopsis ovata, 163 Ccelogyne cristata, 70 Colchicxmi autxminale, 148 Cold house, 59 Coleworts, 70 Colquhounia coccinea, 295 Columbine, the Starry, 16 Conifers, seedling, 237 Comus capitata, 123 Cottage gardens, prizes for flowera in, 74 Crataegus raonogyna, 198 Crocus, the Chilian, 135 Crocuses, autumn -flowering, 273, 295 Cucumber flagging, 24 ; leaves diseased, 96 Cucumbers, 46, 156 ; failing, 12 ; in green- house, 232 Currants, 70 ; Black, 229 ; cuttings of, 218; planting, 218; pruning, 218; Red, White and Black, 11 ; White, 16a Cyclamen ciliciciun, 224 ; hardy, 191 ; Per- sian, growing, 43, 198 Cypripedium bellatulum, 242 ; spectabile, 14 Cypripediiuns, 10, 130, 230 ; hardy, 33 Cytisus nigricans, 163 ; priecox, increasing, 12 ; schipksensis, 125 Daffodil bulbs, lifting, 10 ; growing in Hunts, 110 ; yellow stripe disease, 52 Daffodils, double incomparabilis, the, 166 ; flowering in September, 146 ; for exhibi- tion, 214 ; for forcing, 114 ; naming, 202 ; in New Zealand, 234, 283 ; planting, 130 ; three trumpet — Weardale Perfection, Peter Bafr and Monarch, 126 Dahlia, the, 85 ; good white, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, 148 ; leafage, eaten, 23 Dahlias, 218 ; pot roots of, 106 ; and Roses, Turner's, 200 ; single, five good, 235 Daisy, common, gro\ving the, 59 Daphue odora, 69 Decorative classes at flower shows, judging, 236 Delphiniums, 52, 70 ; seedling, 57 Dendi'obium chrysanthum, 272 ; Phalie- nopsis schroederianum, 218 Dendrobiums, 58, 130, 169 ; deciduous, 169 Dendi'omecon rigidum, 223 Dianthus callizonus, 75, 274 Diascia Barberas, 259, 282 Diervilla (Weigela) Candida, 101 Digging, Ac, 170 Diplacus, 69 D'ombrain, Rev. H. H., the late, memorial to, 162 Drought, the, 162 Draca?na leaves, defective, 243 Edinburgh parks and gardens, 14 Embothrium coccineum, 101 " English Gardens, a Book of," 217 Epidendrmu prismatocarpum, 254 Eremuri, 81 ; at Foitfield House, Firenui'e, County Dublin, 27 Eremurus robustus, 263 Erica australis, 27 Eiyugium serbicum, 79 Ei-ysimum Barbarea plena, 12; perof- skianum, 41 Escallonia, unsatisfactory, 158 Eucharis at Easter, 1S4 Eucomis punctata, 295 Eucryphia cordifolia, 190 ; pinnatifolia, 100, 101, 117 Euonymus diseased, 119 Feijoa sellowiana, 117 Fern, Lemon-scented Buckler, the, 124 ; Maidenhair, unsatisfactory, 72 ; Male, the common, 176, 223 ; the Royal, at Killamey, 98 Ferns, abnormal, 28 ; new, 307 ; Ostrich Feather, 67 ; from spores, raising, 243 Fig out of doors, 46 ; trees, 253 Figs, 143 ; not fruiting, 183, 199 FUberts, 130 Fire Bush, the, 101 ; the garden, 248 Flax, New Zealand, 99 Flower pictures at the Leicester Galleries, 270 Flowers by artificial light, 257 ; December, 281 ; from a garden in Ireland, 33 ; in season for vases, 28 ; in the home (October award), 257 ; packing Christ- mas, 297 ; a summer ramble in search of, 133 Foxgloves, 67 ; abnormal, 11 Francoa ramosa, 283 Freesias, 19 ; growai out of doors, 211 French Beans, 266 Froebel, M. Otto, the late, 146 Fruit from birds, protecting, 72 ; farm in Ireland, terrible destruction to a, 26; trees, gumming in, 96 ; gathering, 94 ; grading and packing, 121 ; packing, 261 ; Melons, 189 ; planting gromid vnth, 207 ; room, the, 94 ; effects of coloured glass in, 220 ; wasps and birds destroying, 235 ; trees, blight on, 184 ; canker in, 15S ; during drought, 136 ; lifting and replanting, 170 ; lime washing stems, 291 ; 'manuring, 206 ; in pots, 253 ; prmiing, 95 ; top-dressing, 130 ; wall, 243 ; not growing, 120 Fniits, the best, for araatem-s, 133 ; under glass, 229 ; for winter use, preserving, 173 ; of Roses, 275 Fmiterers' Company, the, 210 Fuchsia, Califomian, in autumn, 134 Fuchsias, hardy, 119 ; hardy. Bouquet, 188 ; in tubs, 143 Funkia Sieboldi, 35 ; tardiflora, 199 O. Garden, flower, laying out, 183 ; formal, 157 ; new, 157 ; sunny, 183 Gardeners, Orphan Fund, 270 ; prizes for, 2, 50, 62, 74, 97, 98, 162, 174, 210, 222, 244, 257 Gardenias, to grow, 35 Gardening for women, 135 Garlic, 34 Gentiana Przewalskii, 11 Gentianella, 39 Geraniums, Ivy - leaved, in the West Country, 112; London, 99; wintering, 184 Gilia coronopifolia, 147, 165 Gladioli, 86 Gladiolus, 205 ; King of Gladioli, 6 ; tristis concolor, 138 ; the winter, 210, 270, 295 Godetia, new, a beautiful, 203 ; Schamini fl.-pl., 203 Gooseberry mildew, 281 Gooseberries for market, 120 Gourds, ornamental, 178 Grape-room, a, 177 Grapes, 143 ; keeping, 195 ; Muscat, failing, 278, late, 302 Greenhouse, 184; oil stoves in the, 187; plants in, 231 ; small, heating, 158 Greenwich Park, flowers in, 110 Guelder Rose, the, 27 ' Gunnera manicata, 179 H. Habenarias, 130 Habranthus pratensis, 4 Hainault Forest, 50 Hampton Court Gardens, flowers in, 75 :^^ps'x VI. INDEX. [" The Garden," December i^tf, 1906 Heaths, the. (>9 ; hardy, 155, 201 Hedge, an ornamental, 102 Hedges, cleanhig, 15 Herliaceous liorders, 131, 229; plants for. ■254 ; plants, 205 ; propagating, 81 ; sup- porting. 15 ; Herbs. 20(i ; some garden, 101 Hemiannia candicans, 174, 199, 235 Heucheras, 4.S ; crossing, 125 ; seedling, 10 Himalayan House at Kew, the. 110 Hippeastrunis unsatisfactory, 119 Hollyhock disease, the, 106 Home, flowers in the (October award) 257 Homeria collina, 138 Horseradish, 131, 242 Horticultural Club, East Anglian, 48, 160, 196 Hot-bed materials, 254 Hot-beds, 290. Humea elegans, 171 Hyde Park, notes on the summer bedding in, 1S5 Hydrangea, flowers of various colours, 198; paniculata. 189 Hydrangeas, 277. Hypericum kotschianum, 175 I. Incarvillea and Eremunis, 23 Insect pests, 194 Iris Danfordise, 65; family, the, 53; the, 65, 112, 164, 177 ; reticulata and its allies, 65 ; stylosa (unguicularis), 247 301 ; tingitana, 79 Irises, 106, 130 ; bulbous, 65 ; flag, the best, 62, 39 ; a note on, 15 ; for succession of flower. 195 ; some good, 268 Ivy in bloom, tree, 283 Isias, 301 ; from Berwickshire, 21 ; and Sparaxis, 79; Scotland. 90 Ixiolirion niontanum, 100 J. Jennings, Mr. Frank, 86 Justicias, 268 Kelway^s Manual, 218 Kent, flowers, fruits and foliage in. 266 King Edward VII. Sanatorium for Con- sumption, gardens at. 3 Kitchen garden, making a. 220 Kniphoflas. 155; and hees. 198, 199 Kceheuteria paniculata,, 189 L?elia anceps and it« vars., 82 ; elegans, 22 ; LjeJio-Cattleya Phoebe, 17 La?lias, ilexican, 206 Land Tenure Bill, 256 Larkspurs, annual, 79; in Ireland, 75 Lathraja clandestina, 57 Laurustinus and vai-s., the, 112 Lavender bushes, 267 Lawn, Moss on. 255 ; manure for. 290 ; Plantains on, 71 ; weedy, 1.^7 Law^lS, 142, 253 ; treatment of, 245 Layia elegans, 11 Leaf, the fall of the, 175 ; mould from Chestnut leaves, 2S0 Leeks. 11, 118 Ltgal points, 159, 244, 268, 292 Leonotis Leonunis, 198 Lettuces for winter. 72 Lewisia Tweedyi, 138 Libeitia formosa in an Irish garden, 175 Lilium auratum, 125 ; deteriorating, 118 ; a finely grown, 19S ; Brownii vars., 100; giganteum, 94, 295 ; in a Scottish garden, 51 ; speciosum, late-floweriug, 187 ; testa- ceum, 11 ; tigrinum variety, 171 Liliums, 169 Lily bulbs, time for planting, 79; the Nepaul, 175 Linaria datmatica, 35 Lisianthus russellianus, 77 Lobelia, a beautiful. 77 ; cardinalis, 10 ; Carter's double blue, 2 ; fiUgens and vars., 218 ; tenuior. 83 Lord Meath's window-garden scheme, 1 Ix)udon, Mr. William, presentation to, 147 Lungwort, the white Auvergne, 90 Lupine, a rose-coloured, 64 ; tree, a giant, 39 ; the tree, 63 Lysol as a remedy for mildew on Roses, 53 Manure, liquid, 253 Marguerite, Queen Alexandra. 39 *' Market Gai-dening, the Book of," 81 Marrows, 106 ; Vegetable. 22 Masdevallia tovarensis, 218 Masdevallias, 142, 290 ileconopsis integrifolia, 100 Medlar, the, 241 ilelon plants withering, 120 ; Sutton's Triumph. 136, Melons. 46. 156; in houses, 102; new, 16 Merrj'weather and Sons, Messrs., South- well. Notts. 1.56 Mesembryanthemum, a beautiful, 50 Meyer, Mr. F. W., 74 Michaelmas Daisies, 194 Michauxia campanuloides, 246 Mignonette in pots, 63 Mildew, 34; destroyer, Mo-Efiic, 26; Gooseben'y, 281 ; on Roses, remedies, 4 Mint, 46, 278 Mocassin Flower, the, 10 Moles in the garden, 223; how to get rid of. 277, 294 Monarda didyma splendens, 58 Montbretia crocosmajflora, 146 Montbretias, 194 ; new seedling, 122 ; at Westwick, the newer, 99 Mosses, the collection of, in the Glasgow Botanic Gardens, 259 Mulching, 13 ; the value of, 237 Mulleins, the. 90 Mushroom spawn, 232 Mushrooms, 34, 131 Mutisia decurrens. 188, 234, 234, 347, 258, 283 " My Garden," 9 N. Narcissus Poeticus Laureate, 211 ; semi- partitus plenus, 200; triandrus albua superbus, 285 Nectarines, diseased, 120 Nerines, where they grow, 272 Nasturtium, the Flame, 16 Nectaiines, 22 ; yellow or orange, 13G Nerines, 249 Nettle, a remarkable, 73 New South Wales for settlers, 110 Nicotiana Sanderse, 265 ; in winter, 50 Norfolk Garden, a. 3 Noith-east sea-coast garden, my, 245, 259 Nymphnea James Brydon, 55 Oak tree, old, 267 Odontoglossiun Cervantesii, 34; crispum and vars., 117 ; Rossii, 34 Odontoglossums, 155 Oleander, the. 35 Omphalodes Lucilia;, 30, 99, 138 Oncidium macranthum, 34 ; varic ,oUm, 34 Oncidiums, 170 Onions, 46, 82, 94. 118; diseased, 120; from seed raising, 279, 301 ; mildewed, 60 Orchard house, the, 155; houses, 11; trees, planting, 242 Orchards, grass, 253 Orchid (Brasso-Cattleya ilrs. Leeman in- versa), 311 Orchids. 22, 182 ; cool house, 34 ; protec- tion from frost, 242; seedling, 45 Orchis, 33 Ostrowskia magniflca. 187, 210, 241 Pa?onies, diseased, 12 ; herbaceous, 31 Pansy Virgin Queen, 63 Pansies. 33; the Empress, 54; failing, 71; in pans, 52; tufted. 298 ; in bloom from April to October, 118 ; (Violas) how to grow, 25 Papaver orientale, 173 Parrot's Bill, the. 137 Parsley. 46, 82, 118, 278 Parsnips, 278 Paths, gravel, 71 Pea. the earliest, 14 ; the Gloiy, 137 Peas. 22, 82, 242; the perennial, 58 Peach foliage infested, 24; houses, 106; leaf blister, 12 ; leaves diseased, 12 ; falling, 47 ; trees under glass, 220 ; pests on, 36; two large, successful transplant- ing of, 201 Peaches, 22 ; falling before ripe, 220 ; mildew on, 12 ; and nectarines, planting, 243 ; outdoor, 233 ; outdoor, effects of the weather on, 64 Pear tree, 183 ; trees unfruitful, 158 ; un- satisfactory, 96 Pears, planting, /s on " How to Biul Jioses." ' Practical information clearly stated is desired. The essay should be accompanied by a few sketches to show how the work is performed. The remarks (limited to 1 50(1 words) must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked " Competition," addressed to "The Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than July 31. Both amateur and professional gar- deners may compete ; it is hoped, however, that those who contribute regularly to the pages of The Garden will not do so. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS., and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. July 10.— Royal Horticultural Society's Sum- mer Show, Holland Park (two days) ; Gloucester, Southend-on-Sea (two flays), and Wolverhampton (three days) Rose Shows. July 11. — Formby, Helensburgh, and Thornton Heath Rose Shows ; Shefiield Chrysanthemum Society's Meeting ; Redhill and Notts (two days) Shows. July 12. — Brentwood, Eltham, Potter's Bar, Chipping Norton, and Woodbridge Rose Shows. Holland House Gardens.— On the first day of the Royal Horticultural Society's summer show (Tuesday next) the beautiful grounds of Holland House will, by kind permis- sion of Mary Countess of Ilchester, be open to visitors to the show. They will remain open from 2 p.m. to 7 p.m., the money received being given to the gardening charities. W^ater-coloup drawingrs ot the Riviera and the Thames.— A very interesting exhibition of water-colour drawings of the Riviera and the Thames, by Mr. and Mrs. Albert Stevens, may be seen at the Uoti Gallery, 35, New Bond Street. There are many charming scenes on the Thames and the Mediterranean, and the garden flowers painted by Mrs. Stevens have that freshness and vigour which we admire so much in this artist's work. It is an exhibi- tion that should be seen by all lovers of Eoglish gardens, and those who also know the sunny shores of the Mediterranean. MP. W^ood's exhibit at the York Show. — In our report ot the York Gala we omitted to mention the award of a silver medal i to Mr. J. Wood, Boston Spa, R.S.O., Yorks, for I the interesting group of alpine plants, &c., shown on rockwork. The W^olvephampton Flopal Fete. The eighteenth annual floral and musical feCe is announced to take place in the West Park on the lOch, 11th, and r2th inst., when a most attractive and varied programme is offered to visitors. The pirk is an ideal place for the holding of such I a carnival, and is of itself well worth a visit, 1 the many acres of well cultured and flower- bedecked grounds being now in the best of condition. Facilities for visiting the fete are provided by the railway companies by the issue of cheap tickets by any ordinary train, and half-day excursion bookings on the second and third days. Quekettia Jenmani.— The interesting little Orchid shown by Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bt., at the meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society on the 12ch ult. is an addition to a genus which has been regarded as monotypic. The species upon which it was founded is Q microscopica, with tiny inconspicuous flowers, that under the microscope have a beautiful appearance, owing to the number of needle-shaped crystals, termed raphides, contained in the cells. This Orchid does not appear in the last edition of the Kew Hand L'st, but it has been in cultivation since 1837, and was included in Loddiges' collection at Hackney shortly after that dale. Though sug- gestive of a Pleurothallis in general appearance, it is related to loncpsis, and included in the Vandese. How far the diminutive Q. Jenmani agrees with the other species in the peculiar character mentioned I have had no opportunity to determine ; but perhaps Sir Trevor Lawrence or Mr. White could give some information upon the point. The generic name was erroneously printed Tuckettia in The Garden of the 23rd ult. — L Castle. Captep's double blue Lobelia.— What a splendid decorative plant this new double-flowered blue Lobelia makes. A short time ago in Messrs. Carter and Co.'s nurseries at Forest Hill we saw a large number of plants growing in pots, but so even had the plants grown that the pots were hardly visible. Buds and flowers are most abundant, and we can well imagine what a fine sight the plants in full bloom must have been. Other plants for which the firm of Carter and Co. is famous were finely represented. Even the Cinerarias were not yet over owing to the late season, and we were able to note the many remarkably fine and varied colours that are typical of Carter's strain of Cinerarias. The Calceolarias, too, were very fine as visitors to the Temple Show had an opportunity of seeing. Of these valuable green, house plante Messrs. Carter possess a strain that is uncommonly good. We were struck with the plants of Schizanthus which were In full bloom. There are few more valuable decorative plants than the Schizanthus. Well - grown plants, such as we saw at Forest Hill, gave a good idea of the value of the Schizanthus when properly treated. Messrs. Carter also have 4 collection of tuberous Begonias that comprises varieties of great merit. Some of the newest varieties are as perfect in form as a Camellia or Rose bud, while the shades of colour through which the^ raoge are indescribable. July 7, 1906.] THE GARDEN A Norfolk garden. — The inhabitants of Norwich last year had the pleasure on several Sundays of walking about the beautiful gardens and grounds of Louis Tillett, Efq., M.P. for the city, at his residence, The Cottage, Old Catton. He has just announced that each Sanday after- noon till further notice the same privilege will be extended. Mr. F. Williams, the gardener, keeps the herbaceous and Hose borders in first- rate condition, and these and other flowers are a source of much admiration from time to time. Mr. Wilfred Tillett gives visitors much interest- ing information about the plants and shrubs. Senecio auplculatisslmus. — The genus Senecio is a most extensive one, as the number of species it contains can be counted by hundreds, and botanists have now swept into it other genera that were formerly kept distinct. Even our old garden friends the Cinerarias are now placed in the same genus as the ubiquitous Groundsel. The species under notice, Senecio auriculatissimus, which has been several times exhibited of late, reminds one of a golden-flowered Cineraria, with blossoms about an inch across. They are, as in the other kinds, borne in flattened clusters. Though this Senecio can be grown as a comparatively dwarf plant, it will, when growing freely, develop quite a climbing or rambling habit, and as a pillar plant for the greenhouse it is decidedly attractive and most uncommon. A native of Central Africa, Senecio THB DAWSON BOSK IN THE BOSK DELL AT KBW, ONE OF THE MOST CHAEMING SPOTS IN THE EOTAL GAEDENS NOW. auriculatissimus has been grown in this country since 1898. In conjunction with some of the garden varieties of Cineraria, it may in the hands of the hybridist possibly give rise to a distinct race, but I am not aware that anything in this way has yet been raised. Even if this is the case, it still stands out as an easily-grown, free-flower- ing, and pretty greenhouse plant. — H. P. Rhododendrons in Hyde Park. Lovers of these beautiful evergreen flowering shrubs who visit Hyde Park at this period of the year are doubtless familiar with the rich and attractive displays of it made annually by Mr. Anthony Waterer, Knap Hill Nurseries, Woking. The shrubs grow with as much vigour and luxuriance in many sandy loams as they do in peat, almost any loamy soil, free from lime or chalk, being suitable for them, with a liberal admixture of leaf-mould or any fibrous material, such as the parings of pasture land. It may be of practical interest to give the names of some of the many fine varieties at present in flower, keeping each colour distinct. Blush and White : Probably the most beautiful hardy white Rhododendron grown is Mrs. John Clutton ; Album elegans, blush, changing to white, fine shape ; Picturatum, cream colour, with a chocolate blush, distinct and very showy; caerulescens, blush ; delicatissimum, blush, or rather white, changing to pink ; delieatum, blush, changing to white, with a distinct brown spot, fine habit ; Mme. Carvalho, blush, changing to pure white; Minnie, blush white, spotted with chocolate, a distinct flower ; Snowflake, pure white fine conical truss, a beautiful variety ; Duchess of Con- naught, white, yellow spots, very showy. Rose: Stella, pale rose, with an intense chocolate blush ; Lady Eleanor Cathcart, pale rose, spotted chocolate ; Soipio, rose, with a fine deep spot ; Mrs. Charles Leaf, rose, light centre ; Lord John Russell, pale rose, in- tensely spotted, good habit; Kate Waterer, rose, yellow centre, very showy ; govani- anum, pale rose, this has an additional claim to notice because the flowers are sweetly scented; Marchioness of Lansdowne, pale rose, with an intense black spot, one of the most distinct varieties. Crimson and Scarlet : Michael Waterer, crimson, spotted, fine ; J. Marshall Brooks, rich scarlet, with a bronze spot, distinct; James Macin- tosh, rosy scarlet, fine truss ; John Waterer, dark crimson, free flowerer, magenta ; Sigis- mund Rucker, richly spotted, a most distinct kind, purple ; Nero, fine dark rosy purple, richly spotted; Charles Thorold, purple, greenish yellow centre. Mauve : Fas- tuosum flore-pleno, immense trusses of double flowers, lilac ; Mrs. R. S. Holford, rich salmon truss, a large and beautiful flower. P(nA;.'Conce8Sum, clear pink, light centre, a beautiful flower ; Mrs. John Walter, light centre, edged pink, peach ; Lady Clementina Mit- ford, deeper margin, French grey ; Mrs. J. P. Lade, deeper centre, a fine flower. — Qoo. The Rose Dell at Kew. — Visitors to the Royal Gardens, Kaw, at this flowery season of the year should not miss the beautiful Rose dell near the Pagoda. It is not easily seen, as it is hidden away, and one must be told where it is to discover it. Once in this retreat, one is able to realise the great value of The Dawson, Flora, Crimson Rambler, Una, Carmine Pillar, and many other free-growing sorts for making brave masses of growth and bloom. As we have already described this dell a fuller description is un- necessary. Annual report of the Cambridge Botanic Garden Syndicate.— The fol- lowing notes are extracted from the report : " The Botanic Garden has again provided work during the winter, under the scheme initiated by Mrs. Somerset, for men of known respectability in need of employment. Over £200 have been sub- scribed, chiefly by members of the University, and the labour contributed has proved of great value in certain kinds of work. On January 18 the honorary degree of M.A. was conferred upon Mr. Lynch in recognition of his services to botanical science in the University as curator of the Botanic Garden since 1879. In the past year the curator was awarded the Victoria Medal of Honour in Horticulture bv the Royal Horticul- tural Society. During 1905 812 plants, 8,180 bulbs and 3,566 packets of seeds have been received, while 1936 plants and 6 015 packets of seeds have been distributed. Mr. E. Allard, formerly foreman of the indoor department, has raised a handsome Nepenthes (N. Veitchii x Curtisii) bearing fine pitchers. A Sarracenia (S. variolaris x Drummondi) has been raised by the curator, which seems of interest from the fact that the flowers of the several plants are not intermediate in colour, but either yellow or red like one or other of the parents. It is proposed to exhibit these hybrids at the International Conference on Plant Breeding which is to be held in London in August. A thousand Willow cuttings have been given to the Midlands Re- afiforesting Association, by whom good work is being done in the planting of the waste heaps which disfigure the Black Country. It is found that moisture-loving species are often the most successful. The number of specimens supplied for botanical purposes during the year amounted to 81,146." Gardens at King Edward VII. Sanatorium for consumption.— The opening of King Edward VII. Sanatorium on the 13th inst. was an event not lightly to be passed over, for it is hoped that by the grace of God the work done here will strike the deadliest blow against consumption that it has yet received in this or any other country. The buildings stand in grounds of 151 acres, a large part of which is laid out in gardens. These lie open to the south and west, and on the north and east are sheltered by rising ground and a fine old wood of Scotch Fir. There is a long frontage of some 700 feet, overlooking the South Downs, and the whole stands at an elevation of nearly 500 feet above the sea, from which in some winds there is a delicious breeze. Only those who saw the acres that surround the building, while all was in the rough, can appreciate the order and symmetry that now prevail. Many of us are fairly good at altering or improving grounds when once laid out, but creation is a different matter. A year ago, and the walk of a mile or so through dense woodland ended in a startling scene ; gangs of workmen and engineers, piles of bricks and mortar, heaps of stone, iron, tiles, pipes, machinery, and felled timber, together with the half-bnilt range of buildings — about the size of a small village— all surrounded closely by the thicket of trees, not one of which was allowed to be cut down except just enough to make room for workmen. Miss Jekyll's has been the mind that, so far as the grounds are concerned, has evolved order from chaos, and cheerfulness from gloom. It is plain that the dominant ideas of the modem sanatorium have been grasped by this accomplished lady ; fresh air, and plenty of it, THE GARDEN. [July 7, 1906. sunshine and cheerful surroundings — these have been won by her from the heart of the wood. The cutting down of very many trees — Pine, Birch, and Oak — has opened out wide spaces for lawns and beds and terraces. These spread broadly before the sweeping wings of the south block that is designed for the use of patients ; easy shallow steps slope downwards from terrace to terrace till the garden is lost in woodland, through which paths are cut among the scented Pine trees leading to depths of shadow. Terraces are banked up by walls of native atone, and the interstices of these, as well as of the stone steps, are filled with rock plants already blooming. They have caught hold at once, for they are in their element. No less than 9,000 yards of dry walling support the different plateaux. The whole face of the walls is planted, and in two or three years' time should form one of the most extensive and interesting wall gardens in England. Gentle work in the open air is a part of the pro- jected treatment ; such work will be found in the care of the plants on the rock walls and in the many flower borders on the flats. The first visitor to enjoy these gardens is a greenfinch, who has built her nest and is bringing up her family in a niche among the stones and plants of a warm south wall. In the borders near the house one notices the generous distribution of health-giving aromatic herbaceous shrubs, such as Rosemary, Lavender, Southernwood, and Santolina (Lavender Cotton). Pot herbs are placed in a convenient hollowing out of a wall, reached easily from the kitchens. The soil of these grounds ia poor, and so far only such plants are found in it as will grow easily and happily. In every arrangement the art of so planting as to give present efiect, while leaving room for better things to grow in time, is fol- lowed.— Frances A. Bardswell. Habpatithus pratensis.— I observe your note of Habranthus pratensis from the North. I bought a plant in 1879, after seeing the plate in The Garden, Vol. XIV., and it grew in my London home some years, and was brought here, and though it always throws up foliage has not bloomed more than three or four times. This year it has bloomed and come up -very strong, though the root is entirely covered with Lithospermum proatratum, and the maas of Gentian Blue, in flower exactly at the same time, with the Habranthua throwing up in the centre its scarlet blooms, was very effective. It is nearer scarlet than your plate taken from Mr. Nelson's garden, which is very orange, but perhaps the plate has changed its colour some- what.— J. R. D. , Beigate. THE FLOWER GARDEN. M A FEW RARE PINKS. [ ANY of our most beautiful flowers belong to the Fink family, but none are more so than the many dwarf alpine or rock Pinks. There are about 100 kinds of Pink, but their general growth ia much the aame ; that ia to say, they all have tufta of narrow grass- like foliage and starry flowers, produced singly or in clusters, and there is also little variety in the colouring of the flowers. DiANTHua Knappii ia the better known of the two yellow-flowered Pinks. It is straggling in growth and apt to bloom itself to death unless due precautions are taken. The foliage is aomewhat scanty, and the thin flaccid leaves are especially a prey to slugs. The flowers, produced in clustered heads, 1 inch to 2 inches across, are of a beautiful clear yellow colour, which consti- tutes the entire charm of this rather rare species. The height of well-grown plants rarely exceeds 1 foot, and from three or four to well over a dozen cluatera of flowers may be produced on a single plant. With the help of artificial fertili- sation a fair quantity of seeds may be secured ; also the plant may be propagated from cuttings struck in the usual way. D. PUBESOENS, a native of Greece, ia the only other Pink with yellow flowers that I know of. It ia not so pleasing as the last named, and haa aomewhat amaller flowers in more compact heads. It ia a deairable plant for its distinct colouring. There is a fine chance for hybridisera to pro- duce a race of alpine mule Pinks which embrace all the beautiful shades of rose, scarlet, terra- cotta, and yellow which we find among the floriata' Carnationa. Another Pink which intend- ing hybridisera would do well to pay attention to ia the Cinnabar Pink (D. cinnabarinus), which was introduced from Thessaly, a large province of ancient Greece, in 1888. "The colour of the flowers ia unique. If one can imagine a vivid and rich but somewhat delicate brick-red colour, slightly suffused with orange-salmon, we shall have in mind some approximate idea of the colour of the flowers of this kind. The plant somewhat resembles D. cruentus in growth, forming a rather woody rootstock, with tufts of long grass like leaves of a deep green colour, while the flower- stems grow about 1 foot high and bear several flowers over 1 inch across. I believe the plant is quite hardy ; the only dangers to guard against are those mentioned as often proving fatal to U. Knappii, namely, slugs, &o., and the tendency of the plants to exhaust themselves by over- blooming. Seeds are readily produced, and cuttings are easily struck when obtainable, but, as in the case of several fine Pinks, it is necessary to sacrifice the flowers in order to ensure a supply. It is, I believe, impossible to procure this rare Cinnabar Pink from the trade, with but one exception, the true plant being apparently unknown to nurserymen, who supply forms of D. csesius bearing its name. The AmooR Pink is another rare kind, with flowers of an unusual shade of colour, but beyond the fact that the plant is a native of Southern Russia, reaches a height of 6 inches, and haa blooms of a rare shade of rose-violet, I cannot say much about it. Besides the four Pinks of unusual colour above mentioned, I should like to draw attention to one or two better - known plants of acknowledged garden value, which should not be overlooked by the hybridist when selecting his subjects to work upon. D. NEOLECTDS 18, undisputably, the best of the alpine Pinks in cultivation. It forma dense cushions of deep green needle-like foliage, which is smothered in summer with masses of rich oarmine-rose flowers, often I5 inches across, and produced singly on stems from 1 inch to 3 inches long. Inferior sorts are, however, often sent out for profit. A distinctive feature of the true plant is the charming shade of buff to be aeen on the underside of the petals. This lends addi- tional beauty to an already excellent plant In the Ness Nuraeriea I have particularly noticed a form of D. negleotus which produces in the early stages of its annual growth distinct pale golden yellow leaves. This feature, however, is not permanent, although recurring annually on the same plants and their progeny, in the course of the year assume a normal tint. D. neglectns ia aa hardy and as good a grower as the native Cheddar Pink, and for this reason, combined with its excellent habit and fine flower colouring, should be more grown than it is at present, and will, doubtlese, prove a first-rate subject for crosa-fertilisation, D. ALPiNDS doea not grow so well, but there can be no doubt about its value, both for the last- named purpose and aa a rock plant where its requirements are understood. Producing large, rich, rose-coloured flowers, prettily besprinkled with crimson spots, in large quantities over a considerable period, it has proved excellent as a breeder in the fine new hybrid D. x callalpinus, aa well as in the hybrid or seedling forms which are in commerce under the names D. a. grandi- florua, hybridus, superbus, &o. Other fine Pinks are D. superbus, a delightfully fragrant Pink with rich rose-coloured flowers prettily laciniated, and the native species, D. csesius and D. deltoides. In a large batch of seedlings of the Maiden Pink I have noticed several really excellent forma with flowers of vivid colouring, qualities which need only to be brought out. Remarkable as this beautiful plant is in the freedom with which its flowers are pro- duced, to say nothing of its hardineaa and elegant habit, it aeems strange that so far nothing has been attempted to unite those qualities with others, not leas deairable, possessed by other members of the family ; to wit, fragrance and size of flower. Of the Cheddar Pink it is needless to say much. It ia one of our best dwarf border plants, but one might, perhaps, express a desire to see it used in the production of hybrids, to which would doubt- less be contributed the vigorous habit and hand- some glaucous foliage. D. Frbynii is a charming little Pink. The entire plant is under 2 inches in height, of densely tufted habit, and bears flowers of a pretty rose tint, tinged with lilac. Usually one dislikes rosy lilac-coloured flowers, but in the case of this dainty introduction of Max Leichtlin's the anti- pathy is forgotten in admiration of the general effect. Closely allied, and probably only a form of the last-named kind, D. MicROLEPis is another miniature Pink which proves a source of perennial delight to lovers of hardy plants. The flowers are paler in the ground colour of the petals, but each segment ia prettily spotted with rose. Each flower is about three-quarters of an inch across, and is regularly serrated at the edges. D. ORANATiooa is of quite a different type, and approaches the Maiden Pink in habit. It forms dense tufts of short, spiny leaves, from which the slender, wiry stems rise to a height of S inches or 9 inches, bearing two or three rosy flowers. It is somewhat like the dainty Coat Flower (Tunica Saxifraga), or it may be said to emulate a miniature Gypsophila. Neston, Cheshire. E. HoRTON. THE ROSE GARDEN. I MILDEW ON ROSES. (Continued from page 335.) Remedies for Mildew. N The Garden for .June 25, 1904, I penned a note on this subject as follows : " Used properly sulphide of potassium is a perfect remedy for mildew, and also a very cheap one. The way to apply it is to make a solution of hot soapy water, and to drop into it some pieces of the sulphide, which will quickly dissolve. Keep stirring the mixture and adding the sulphide until the water becomea bright green. I put thie mixture in my Vermorel Knapsack Sprayer, using the finest nozzle, and I have yet to come across a case of Rose mildew which it will not immediately check, and, pro- vided it ia taken in hand early in the season, eventually cure. Half an ounce or quarter of an ounce of sulphide of potassium to two gallons of water is the quantity recommended by most authorities for this purpose, but I advise my roaarian friends to adopt my plan and use the mixture considerably stronger. It will save them much trouble by effecting an almoat immediate cure at the beginning, and do no harm to the plants whatever." Since this was written quite a number of roaarians have sent me their testimony as to the efficaciousness of this treatment, and giving instances where it had completely cured long- standing cases of mildew. Others have written saying that they had found it a palliative only and not a real remedy ; while as an antithesis a few have reported that they have not found it of any use at all. How are these differencea of July 7, 1906.] THE GARDEN. testimony to be reconciled ? I think myself that with insecticides their curative power greatly depends upon the methods employed in handling them, as well as the time of application. The majority of rosarians, I fear, never think about spraying for mildew until the pest has actually put in an appearance. This, as 1 shall presently show, is a serious mistake. With the approach of cold weather mildew retires into its winter form, when it appears as dirty brown marks on the stems and leaves. In this state neither frost nor any fungicide can harm it. Nevertheless, even while it is in this dormant condition the rosarian still has a powerful weapon of attack left. Before earthing up or protecting the plants scrupulous care should be taken to collect all fallen leaves, and those remaining on the plants should be cut oflf and the whole of them burnt. Of course such a method of procedure involves an amount of labour which may appear unnecessary to some ; but drastic diseases require drastic treat- ment, and a plantation of mildewed Roses is such an eyesore that nothing seems too much trouble to try and effect a cure. But there are still the stems to be dealt with, and it is often the case that these harbour far more of the fungus during the winter than the leaves. This is espe- cially noticeable with some climbing Roses, such as Blairii No. 2, &o. With the advent of mild, warm weather the perithecium (which is the term applied to the winter receptacle of the spore cells) bursts, and begins to discharge spore cells, which in turn set free the spores. On warm walls this process has been known to take place as early as February, but unless the weather is particularly unkind it more usually happens during April and May. The point to be emphasised is that mildew is then at its most vulnerable state, and if I can only persuade my brother rosarians to spray their plants with sulphide of potassium directly they have finished pruning, and to con- tinue doing so at intervals throughout the season they will find that the fungicide will not let the disease make much headway, even if it does not entirely obliterate it. I have myself cured the most obstinate cases, so that my faith in the efficacy of sulphide of potassium is not easily ! shaken. But let me say at once that it is of little avail to start spraying when the disease has the plants completely in its grip. Ltsol as a Remedy. But since last season two other remedies have been strongly advocated in The Garden, and it certainly behoves rosarians to give each of them a most careful trial. Lysol, which was so strongly recommended by Dr^ O'Donel Browne in the number for December 16 last, is not an entirely new remedy to me, as I first saw it men- tioned some time ago in the interesting catalogue of that eminent French rosarian M. Pierre Guillot. However, I had never thought of giving it a trial until the appearance of Dr. O'Donel Browne's interesting note. Briefly, Lysol is a powerful disinfectant, manufactured and patented by Messrs. Schillke and Mayr of Hamburg, Germanv. and whose London address is 9 and 10, St. Mary-at-Hill, E.G. The bottle which I purchased for Is. 6 3. contains 500 grammes, and is fitted with a measure, but it may be obtained in larger bottles, and also in one gallon tins at 183. each. The other remedy which has received com- mendation is known as the Mo-Effic Mildew Destroyer, and this also I am giving a careful test. The cost of this fungicide, if purchased by the gallon, is 12j. 6d., carriage paid. The strength of this preparation allows of it being diluted 1 in 100, THE WHITE HBAKT OHEBBY. (Reduced.) or, in other words, one pint will make 12^ gallons when mixed with rain-water. In an instructive booklet issued by the manufacturers it is interest- ing to observe that great stress is laid upon the im- portance of starting to spray or syringe for mildew as soon as the new growths make their appearance. Another remedy, which is in frequent use on the Continent, is known as the Weber solution. It is compounded as follows : Dissolve 21b. of sulphate of copper in twenty quarts of water, then add 41b. of slacked lime, and 21b. of flowers of sulphur. Boil from forty to fifty minutes, stirring almost continuously. This makes a yellowish green liquid, and one quart of it is sufiicient for ten quarts of rain-water. Another remedy which the Rev. Joseph Pemberton tells me he finds most beneficial is Calvert's carbolic soft soap. It is almost needless to add that all the remedies named require to be applied in as fine a spray as possible. Frequent syringing meets with failure because the rose of the syringe is not always fine enough. Make a point, too, of seeing that the plants have a thorough drenching, and that the underneath part of the leaves receives the chief proportion of the fungicide. With me the mixture of soft soap and sulphur so often recommended has proved a failure, besides being unsightly and troublesome to deal with. Quite recently a writer in the Rosen- Zeitung sang the praises of ordinary sulphur, which, he said, should be dusted over the plants while the dew was still upon them. But my experience is that sulphur refuses to adhere to the under part of the leaves where, of course, lies the greatest mischief, and on the first windy day that which does adhere is very quickly dis- persed. The late Mr. Foster-Melliar believed that in dealing with mildew at its inception "there is nothing to beat the human finger and thumb if dipped in sulphur every now and then." But even with a collection of only one or two hundred plants it will not be found feasible to attack the pest by this means unless one has plenty of leisure, a lot that seldom falls to the enthusiastic rosarian. Abthue R. Goodwin. The Elms, Kidderminster. I tried it, 1 oz. to the gallon of water, and used it with the Abol syringe. It certainly was efficient, inasmuch as it killed all the foliage and two of the trees completely. Mildew. THE FRUIT GARDEN LYSOL FOR MILDEW ON ROSES. I SHALL be glad if " R. E. B." will kindly give his method of using Lysol on Roses. Last year STANDARD AND BUSH CHERRIES. A S an orchard fruit of great commercial /\ value the importance of the Cherry / \ has been to a large measure lost sight / \ of during late years in consequence / %^ of the decadence of orchard tree planting by the past generation of farmers and fruit growers, and also by the greater prominence given to the Apple and the Plum. In this respect our forefathers were wiser in their generation than we are. A ramble through some of our home counties, notably Kent, Hertford, and Bucks brings this convincingly home to us. Not long ago I had the pleasure of inspecting some of those in the neighbourhood of Iver, Bucks. Many of the trees were of giant size, indeed approaching the dimensions of fair-sized forest trees, and might be any age between sixty and a hundred years. To all appearance those old trees were in full vigour of health and fruitfulness. On the other hand, how seldom one comes across a large new Cherry orchard planted solely with a view to profit. True, I did on the same occasion come across a large one which had evidently been planted three or four years, and a more promising plantation of young trees I have seldom seen. Unlike many of our hardy fruit trees, the Cherry lives to a great age and preserves its vigour and fertility to the last. It seems only to have attained its majority when the Apple and the Plum, for instance, are on the down grade. ' The early Cherry is the first native fruit of the year to ripen, and is therefore much prized and sought after, especially by the young. Its disposal as compared to other fruits gives the grower little trouble, as the crop is generally sold by auction while the fruit is hanging on the tree, the buyer afterwards taking all risks and bearing all expenses. In good years it is not at all unusual for these old orchards to make from £40 THE GARDEN. [July 7, 1906. to £50 per acre, often much more, and the labour and expense attending their growth at this stage of their existence is practically nil. The tree is at home in all the Southern Counties and the South Midlands, and even in counties further north it succeeds fairly well if planted in suitable positions and in the right soil. The tree is hardy, and, unlike many of our hardy fruit trees which bene6t by the help of shelter and protection, it cares for none of these, but prospers best when planted on high lands exposed to all the winds that blow. Therefore those who may be contem- plating the planting of Cherry orchards should bear this in mind. The most important point to observe of all is the question of Soil. — The Cherry will not succeed on poor, thin land, and it would simply be courting failure to plant it in such soil. What it delights in, and therefore succeeds the best, is a marly loam of a good depth, say, from 1^ feet to 3 feet, resting on gravel or chalk. Apart from this, the Cherry will prove successful in ordinary soil of the depth pre- viously mentioned, provided it hM a fair amount of lime in its composition and is well drained. Flaktino. — The trees make much more satis- factory progress if planted on arable land which The Time to Plant should be from the middle of October to the middle of December, the earlier part of the time being best, and the planter should be careful to select a time when the soil is more on the dry side than wet. The roots before planting should be carefully examined, and any bruised or damaged ones carefully cut away. In planting, make the hole large enough for the roots to extend their whole length in, instead of leaving to force themselves ^ in ; 6 inches below the surface is the proper depth for the roots to be covered. Lay the soil care- fully among the roots while planting, and tread the soil fairly firm when finished, finally staking the trees, and, if on grass laad, protecting it from cattle, mulching with manure in the summer as previously advised. Varieties. — This is an important matter to consider in planting a Cherry orchard for profit. As every schoolboy and the man in the street well knows, it is the White Heart Cherry (which we illustrate) for which the public cry out the most. This has always been the cry, and always will be as long as the past can influence the future. Therefore plant this sort liberally. It is a Tgood sort 'jn every way. Other good SUMMBB-FLOWEBING SAXUBAOES (BOCKFOILS) IN THE ROYAL OAEDENS, KEW. is annually cropped and cultivated. If planted on grass land, a space of at least 3 feet (measuring from the stem of the tree) must be left bare of grass and kept free from weeds, or the young trees will be greatly handicapped in their growth from the first. Distance Apart to Plant. — The large- growing permanent trees should be planted at distances of 37 feet apart each way, and tempo- rary smaller-growing varieties planted between {see "Varieties"). Preparation of the Geound. — The land should be trenched 2^ feet deep, and the subsoil broken up in that position where the trees are to be planted for a space of 8 feet square, and a good dressing of lime added at the same time, say, a barrowful to the 8 square feet. The Cherry is unlike most other fruit trees, which benefit from the presence of manure in the soil. In the case of this fruit, organic or, indeed, any manure added to the soil will prove inimical to its future welfare ; but a mulching of rotten manure laid 3 inches thick on the exposed surface in hot weather will do much good in preventing evaporation and in nourishing the surface-roots of the trees. sorts for orchard planting are the following, arranged according to their order of ripening. If there should be a warmer position in one part of the orchard than another, this should be I given to the early varieties, as the earlier they I are in the market the better price they make. First early black varieties : Early Rivers', Old Black Heart, and early Black Heart. The follow- ing are the best early whites : Frogmore Bigarreau and Elton Heart. Mid-season : Governor Wood, Kent Bigarreau, and Black Eagle are among the best. Late varieties : Napoleon Bigarreau, Bigarreau de Mizel, and Florence. Late black : Tartarian, The Noble, and Turkey Heart. (Noble is indispensable). Pruning — Early in the new year, after being planted in the autumn, the shoots of the young trees should be pruned back three parts of their length. This will result in more than double the number of shoots the following season, and will lay a solid foundation of branches for the future building up of the tree. The yearly pruning afterwards will simply consist in removing branches which cross each other, and in keeping the trees well balanced and free from over- crowding of branches. With regard to trees for planting between the permanent trees as tem- porary ones until the former have appropriated the space, in my opinion the Morello Cherry is the most satisfactory and profitable. It is hardy and unusually prolific, scarcely ever failing to produce a crop, and, what is more, succeeds as well, if not better, in the North and Midlands than in the South. It is not often one comes across the Morello grown as standards, nevertheless the tree succeeds well when grown in this form. Speaking to a Yorkshire friend recently on the subject of Cherries, he told me that his father, a market gardener near Wakefield, had a number of old standard trees in his garden which never failed to produce prodigious crops most years. Owen Thomas. COLOURED PLATE PtiATB 130Z. GLADIOLUS KING OF GLADIOLI. This is one of the most beautiful Gladioli raised by Messrs. Kelway and Son of Lang- port, Somerset, and was referred to in The Garden of the 23rd ult., page 331, where a description of the genus also appears. We refer our readers to these notes. SUMMER - FLOWERING SAXIFRAGES. DURING the month of June the mem- L bers of the crusted section of this I valuable family of rook plants f attain their greatest development, and form one of the most effective displays in the rock garden when planted in groups such as that shown in the accompanying illustration. There are many kinds of great merit which may be considered among the easiest of plants to grow, provided that they are planted among plenty of stones to ensure thorough drainage. On old walls they may be planted to great advantage, especially where the wall is backed with soil and the stones are loosely put together without mortar. Here the rosettes may be inserted between the stones when in a small state, and soon make respectable tufta that freely produce flowers annually when established. Fissures in large masses of rock may also be utilised for planting crusted Saxi- frages, one of the prettiest bits in the rock garden at the present time being a large plant of Saxi- fraga coohlearis growing out of a narrow crevice on the upper part of a large stone, forming a silvery cushion, from which are produced the light panicles of pure white flowers. Even when not in flower the large rosettes of silver-edged leaves are most ornamental, especially those of S. longifolia, which often attain a diameter of nearly 1 foot before flowering. A small selection should include the following, which are among the best of this section : Saxifraga ccUalaunica, from the Pyrenees, is a choice and rare species with rosettes of recurved leaves, having a broad silver margin, giving it a most distinct and handsome appearance. The flowering panicles resemble those of S. lingulata, but are larger and more spreading. S. cochlearis may be described as one of the neatest and prettiest in habit, with small rosettes of silvery spoon-shaped leaves, packed closely together and forming a dense mass. The flowers are produced on tight and graceful panicles through the early summer months. It is a native of Southern Europe, and, like the above, grows well in sunny positions planted in calcareous soil. S. Cotyledon. — This plant is widely dis- tributed, being found on mountain ranges from the Pyrenees to Lapland. It is easily known by its broad leaves and pyramids of white flowers. July 7, 1906. j THE GARDEJS. These vary a good deal in size, some attaining a height of 30 inches or more, produced from rosettes over 1 foot in diameter. The largest form is S. Cotyledon var. ieelandioa, which assumes large proportions in favourable situa- tions. It is one of the most ornamental, and is easy to propagate, as it makes a profusion of side shoots, which if taken off and potted up singly soon make large rosettes. To attain the best results, all side elioots should be removed from flowering crowns. S. Hosti is a free-growing plant with rosettes of strap-shaped leaves and somewhat flat-topped panicles of white flowers spotted with pink. The pink markings are most conspicuous in the variety macnabiana. n seedling Asparagus if not already done. If wanted for a permanent bed, leave a small clump of seedlings, say, four or five, every 18 inches ; but if wanted for transplanting when two years old they miy be left a lictle closer. Bryanston Gardens, Blandford. J. Jaques FRUIT GARDEN. MoRELLO Chebbies. — The fruits of these have set well and promise to be a full crop. When the Morellos are grown on a north wall the trees should be examined frequently as black aphis is troublesome at this date, and if any be found on the young shoots they should be syringed with Q lassia Extract in the proportion of 1 gallon to 100 gallons of water. If applied in the evening, this wash may be made considerably stronger, and the trees well washed with clean water from the garden engine or syringe the following morning. Morellos grown as standards or bushes, in which form they succeed very well and ripen their fruits earlier than on a north wall, are not so liable to the attacks of insects. However, during dry and hot weather they should be carefully watched, and any appearance of black or green fly checked before it has had time to damage the young growths. Red and White Cubeants. — The points of the leading shoots should be removed, and the side growths, especially those towards the centre of the bushes, should be pruned back to about 2 inches, so as to allow light and air to penetrate freely. If a few bushes are grown on a north wall the season for these fruits can be extended for a considerable time, Red Currants especially, if well secured from the ravages of birds, hang and keep in good condition for a long time. Protection from Birds. — For protecting the bush fruit quarters from birds, if the bushes are planted in rows, it is a good plan to fix a rail of wood on posts over the centre of each row high enough to keep the nets from damaging the tops of the bushes. If wire netting can be procured, a length of it from 3 feet to 4 feet in height should be placed around the quarters to be protected, and the herring-net stretched over the top of the rail and made secure to the top of the wire netting. Black Cubeants will not require any pruning at this season, but the fruit will require the same protection from birds. Raspeebribs. — Remove all suckers that appear between the rows of canes, except those that are being reserved for forming fresh plantations. Those should have the support of a stake and loose ties. Examine the young growths around the stools, and if more of these were left at the first thinning than will be required, reduce them further by removing the weakest. Run a piece of twine along each side of the rows to support the young canes. As the fruits commence to ripen nets should be spread over the area and supported by wire or cord on stout stakes at a sufficient height above the fruiting canes that the young canes will not grow through the meshes. If the weather remains hot and dry, the Rasp- berry plantations should be watered copiously with weak liquid manure, otherwise the fruit will be small and the season short. They may also be greatly assisted on thin, light soils by a mulching of half-rotted farmyard manure. Orchard Houses which are filled with a variety of fruit trees at this season require careful management, as some fruits are ripening while others are still green. If trees with ripening fruits can be removed to another structure so as to have abundance of dry air admitted at all times, the difficulty will be over- come ; but trees planted out in beds must be dealt with so far as possible separately. Keep aphis in check by repeated applications of insecticides or by fumigation. When using insecticides ripe and ripening fruit must be duly considered, as most of them retain the colouring imparted by the liquid insecticides. Thomas R. Wilson. Olamis Castle Gardens, Glamis, N.B. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— TAe Editor intends to make Thb Gaiiden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch o/ gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the " A-nswers to Correspondents" column. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, ajtd addressed to the Editor of The Qarden, to, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. Ijegal Points.— We are prepared to answer questions of law which have anything to do with the subject of gardening and forestry. The questions should be as dear as possible. Answers will be found in a separate column headed "Legal Points." FLOWER GARDEN. Layia elegans (C ) — Among annuals that are blooming fairly well this season is this charming kind. L. elegans is much like L. heterotrieha ; the flowers are produced very freely, and yellow, with a broad white margin. It is very dwarf, not unlike a Daisy, and charming for cutting. Abnormal Foxglovis (Reginald Rankin). — This malformation, in which the terminal flowers are very large, is common in the Fox- glove. It is the result of the adhesion of two or more flowers to form one large one. The technical term describing this abnormal state, which results from the fusion of several terminal flowers into one, is synanthy. They come fairly true from seeds, which may be obtained from seedsmen under the name of Gloxinia-flowered Foxgloves. Gentiana Przbwalskii (S. G. if.).— This plant belongs to the same section of the genus as G. decumbens, and much resembles that plant in habit, but has narrower leaves, and the flowers are deep blue in the typical plant. The plant you have may be a pale-coloured form, or it may be one of the closely-allied species, of which there are several in cultivation, with white or greenish-coloured flowers. The members of this section much resemble each other, and may easily get mixed when not in flower. It would be impossible to say what it is without seeing the flowers and leaves, LiLiUM TESTACEUM (Beginner). — This Lily is In colour totally distinct from any other member of the genus, the flowers baing of a clear nankeen tint, while the anthers are bright orange. It is supposed to be of hybrid origin, the parents being the scarlet Turk's cap Lily (L chalcedonicum) and the Madonna Lily (L. candidum) In growth it more nearly resembles the latter, while the flowers, which are as large as those of L. candidum, are prettily reflexed. The bulb is very much like that of the Madonna Lily, which is the earliest of all the Lilies to start into growth. L. testaceum comes next, or rather it appears above ground at much the same time as the pretty yellow-flowered L. Hansoni ; while these two are closely followed by the scarlet Turk's-cap (L. chalcedonicum). Though this last commences to growso early, it is among the later blooming Lilies, as July is often well advanced before it flowers. L. testaceum, on the other hand, usually blooms towards the latter part of June, though this year, in common with all outdoor subjects, it is earlier than that. The perfume of the flowers is very pleasing. L. testaceum will grow in a light sandy loam better than many other Lilies. Besides the above name it is also known as L. isabellinum, L. peregrinum, and L. excelsum. This last name is very suggestive, as when thoroughly established it is really a ts^U am^ stately Lily. 12 THE GARDEN. [July 7, 1906. Anchusa italica Variety (E. Farrant).—X fine variety, but evidently Identical with A. italica var. superba, also known as Dropmore and Swanmore Parit varieties. A. italica is very variable, and the forma sent for comparison are very poor ones. Chrysanthemums (t. Taylor) —You do not say what section the Chrysanthemums belong to, but if the early- flowering sorts, these would do quite well and flower in the open to some extent, but later-flowering sorts would have to be lifted and given protection before severe frosts arrived. Chrysanthemum Leaves Diseased (J. P.).— These have the leaf rust, which is a fungus. There is no cure, but it is possible to stay its progress by spraying with sulphide of potassium at the rate of loz. to three gallons of water used lukewarm. Affected plants should be isolated, or it bad should be burnt. Anemone .taponica (iS. T. fl.)— The leaves of your Anemone are undoubtedly eaten by slugs or snails ; it is quite likely that the mischief is done when the leaves are young, and as they expand the damage becomes more apparent. Yon should search underueath the leaves carefully for caterpillars, for these sometimes do a lot of damage. These are best got rid of by hand-picking, whereas the slugs and snails may be destroyed by using Climax Slug Destroyer, Slugicide, Vaporite, or other special preparations which are advertised for this purpose. P.EONIES Diseased (ff. S ).— The Paiony stems which you forwarded are attackrd by a fungus commonly known as the drooping disease of Pieonies. Cut off the affected stems as low down as possible, and burn them to prevent the spores being carried to other plants. Remove the surface soil to the depth of 1 inch and replace it with fresh to which some lime has been added. The use of fresh stable manure has been found to cause or foster the disease. The Rose leaves have been curled, I believe, by the grubs of one of the saw flies (Blennocampa pusilia), but I could not flnd any of the grubs in the leaves. I have several times seen Rose leaves rolled in a similar manner which contained the grubs.— G. S. S. Erysimum Barbarea plena (Mrs. Payne).— This so- called Erysimum, the proper name of which is Barbarea vulgaris plena, may be propagated by means of cuttings during the summer months. If allowed to flower freely, the plants produce very few suitable shoots for this purpose, so that for stock a few plants should have all the flowers removed so as to induce them to break again at the bottom of the stem. These may be taken oft as they get large enough, and should be inserted In pots in sandy soil and kept in a close frame till they make roots. They may then be potted off singly in small pots and kept growing on till they are large enough to plant out in the border in the autumn. All flowers that show should be immediately removed as soon as they appear. THE GREENHOUSB. Peach Leaf Blistek (C. D ).— Your trees are very badly attacked by the Peach tree blister. Oace this disease has established itself upon a tree there is no means of eradiciting it except by cutting off the parts affected. The fungus lives throughout the year on the shoots and smaller branches, pushing its growth into the young leaves as they open and causing an abnormal growth of their tissues. You should cut off these shoots which are very badly affected, and where only a few leaves on the shoot are affected cut off the leaves. We are afraid you cannot do very much beyond this so late in the season. Cut off as many of the diseased shoots as you think you ought reasonably to do. As the leaves are opening next spring spray with the Bordeaux Mixture, and again in about three weeks' time. Unless all the diseased portions can be cut off the tree the disease is almost certain to kill it in time. Managbment of Stove (Amateur) — The routine work in a hothouse or stove is as follows : First thing in the morning damp down the floors so as to produce a moist atmosphere, then go carefully round all the plants and give water to those that require it. This work is usually done before breakfast. About nine or ten o'clock on a hot sunny day it will probably be necessary to lower the blinds unless the house is permanently shaded by Summer Cloud or some other substance. When the thermometer reaches 75" or 80" Fahr. a little air should be given. As the sun-heat increases, so the temperature of the stove will increase also, and more air will be necessary. In giving air the object should be to prevent the temperature from rising too rapidly, and should not be given with a view to lowering it. About three o'clock the blinds may be rolled up again and the ventilators closed, thoroughly syringing the plants and moistening the walls, footpaths, jpo. The ventilators should be half closed about half- an-hour before they are closed altogether. During the evening the floors should again be damped down with a watering-can, so that the atmosphere may be kept as moist as possible during the night. SuflBcient fire-heat should be available so as tn maintain a minimum night temperature of 65°. Daring the winter, of course, very little or no air is given, and, naturally, less syringing and damping is required. Daring summer, when the plants are growing freely, the atmosphere should be warm and moist, whereas during winter, when the plants are more or less at rest, the minimum night temperature might be 60", rising 10° and 15° during the day. Clivia Flowering Twice (E. S. H.).— The second flowering of the Clivia is an accidental occurrence that will In no way alfect its blooming next season. Cliyias occasionally behave in this way : in fact, a short time since, on looking over a collection of about 20U plants, we noted half-a-dozen that were again about to flower. The treatment given to the plant could not, judging by your note, be improved upon, and you may reasonably anticipate a good show of bloom next season. WooDLicE IN Greenhouse (P. W. Leader).— The easiest way to get rid of woodlice in a greenhouse is to pour boiling water down by the walls and in crevices where they hide during the day. In this way you may destroy them in large numbers, and by repeating the operation for several days in succession you will probably soon get rid of them. If this does not exterminate them you must have recourse to trapping. In a small clean flower-pot place a freshly-cut slice of Potato, till up with dty Moss or Hay. and turn it over on the bed where the woodlice are. Examine this trap early the next morning and knock out any woodlice it may contain into a vessel of boiling water. Vou should have a number of such traps in different parts of the house. TREES AND SHRUBS. Bamboos (C ). — Arundinaria nobilis is one of the tenderest of the Bamboos grown out of doors in this country, and it is only possible to succeed with it in the warmest counties of England, Wales, and Ireland, and a few places on the West Coast of Scotland. It has been known to be cut down by frost to within a short distance of the ground, and spring up again the following summer. As the plant in question showed signs of flowering last summer, it is improbable that it will grow with any degree of vigour this year, and any shoots that are made will probably bear flowers. At the present time this particular Bamboo is blossoming in many gardens. The variegated Bamboo is Arundinaria Fortune! ; the other it is impossible to identify without more material. Rats have previously been noted as eating young Bamboo shoots, and mice are also given to the same thing when food is short. It is improbable that your black Bamboo will do much more good now that it has begun to flower. In most instances, flowering is death to a Bimboo. Increasing Cvtisus pilecox (William Loic)— Cytisus prajci'X, being a hybrid, cannot be depended on to come true from seeds. Seeds are often produced, but they do not vegetate so well as those of species. The best method of propagation is by means of cuttings of short shoots with a slight heel of old wood, taken about the end of July and inserted in very sandy soil under a bell-glass in a cold frame. Cuttings about 4 inches long from the base of the current year's shoots are the most suitable, and if inserted nicely, almost every one can be depended on to root before the following April, until which time they should not be disturbed. Another method of propagation is to graft small pieces on to stocks of the common Laburnum, or even on to pieces of Laburnum roots. This work has, however, to be done indoors in early spring and a warm and close propagating case is necessary. ROSE GARDEN. BoRNT Earth for Roses (H. M. E.).—We have not heard of burnt earth being recommended as a summer dressing for Roses. It is of most utility when incorporated with heavy clayey soil, and this is usually done in the autumn when planting. Wood ashes are a useful manure, and may be profitably applied where a potash manure is required. Give the soil a good dressing, so that a thin layer is over all the ground, then hoe it in. Wood ashes are obtained by burning up all garden prunings, weeds, &c. An excellent dressing of manure for established Roses would be one part kainit, one par^ l>pne-meal, and one part blood manure, well mixed together, and then mixed with some dry potting soil. This should be given as a good fiprinkling during April, May, and June. As you cannot do this now, give one dressing now and another in a month's time. If unable to obtain the materials easily, procure some good artificial manure and apply as directed. For newly-planted Roses weak liquid manure would be best. Apply this once a week. Good manure can be made by putting a bushel of cow manure into twenty gallons of water, and give this half strength. Caterpillars on Rose Bushes ((?. B.).— We never heard of such an enormous number as you mention upon one Rose bush. Your best plan will be to give the bushes, a good dusting of Hellebore Powder. You might try a good syringing with Calvert's Carbolic Soap Solution if you cannot readily procure the Hellebore. Mix up 2"z. of the soap with one gallon of hot water and apply when cold. ROSE Rust (W H. iS ).— Your Roses are attacked by the red rust or orange fungus ; this is much more variable than mildew, and in many gardens is seldom, if ever, seen ; while in others, particularly those on hot or dry soils, it is frequently very destructive to the foliage. This is a very ditflcult disease to get rid of ; the leaves: which have been attacked should be collected and burnt as soon as they have fallen, and in the following spring, before the buds open, spray the plants well with sulphate of copper. FRUIT GARDEN. Diseased Peach Leaves {W. A.) — The Peach tree leaves sent are not euffaring from shot-hole fungus, but from blister, owing to the severe cold early in May, and the east winds which followed. Some sorts are more subject to the influences of the weather than others, notably Royal George. We do not think you can blame the Giehurst. as you cannot use a safer or better dressing. We never knew a worse season for all tender foliage, and so many have suffered ; indeed, we have seen trees nearly killed with the pest. A portion of the foliage sent has, however, spotted through using the insecticide you note. Layering Strawberries {Shaw). — It is now time that you began to layer your Strawberries to provide plants for next year's fruiting. The number of runners you take from each plant depends upon the number of plants you require. If possible, do not take more than three or four from each plant. By the time the fruits are over you will find that the layers are ready. Choose those which have a strong little plant at the end ; cut off the runner beyond the first little plant upon it. If the runners are allowed to grow they will produce other tiny plants ; vou should, however, only layer the first one. Examine the little plant upon the runner before you attempt to layer it, so as to make sure it is not blind. Blind plants have not a perfect centre of young leaves. Those plants which have not yet produced runners will probably do so. You can tell blind plants in the autumn simply by examining the centres ; those which are blind are almost devoid of young healthy leaves. Many gardeners grow Strawberry plants especially for providing runners. They do not allow them to fruit at all, but simply make runne rs. When you layer three, four, or five runners from each parent plant, cut off all the others ; leave only those which you require, there will then be no tangle of growths such as you complain of. Cucumbers Failing (P. RoUnson).—Yo\a Cucumbers are attacked by aphides, which you can get rid of by using an insecticide called XL All, which may be obtained from any horticultural sundriesman. An apparatus is sold with the insecticide which enables you to heat the latter so that it gives off a vapour which is poisonous to insect life. Before using this insecticide be careful tt-t all the ventilators, doors, &c., are thoroughly closed. Full directions are given by the vendors Mildew on Peaches (M. ir.).— Your reach trees are suffering from a very bad attack of mildew, and we are afraid you will have very great difliculty in getting rid of it. You have left it so long before attempting lo apply a remedy. Y'our best plan will be to pick off all the worst affected leaves and spray the tree with sulphide of potassium, which is made by dissolving li z. of sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) in one quart of water, and dilute it with two and a-half gallons of water. Lysol has lately been strongly recommended as a certain cure for mildew. You might try this. Supplement to THE GARDEN, July ytli, 1906. GLADIOLUS KING OF GLADIOLI. ■ns.J'n'iilfrsJ^'n/h-riSl^ GARDEN. -y^T'=^i No. 1808.— Vol. LXX July 14, 1906. M ULCHI NG. THE recent drought has brought forcibly to the notice of the gardening fraternity the value of mulching. The result to those who have adopted this practice during the recent hot, dry weather will be self evident in the health and greater fertility of the crops to which it has been applied, and let us hope that those who have neglected to avail themselves of this method of helping crops in summer either by indiffer- ence or want of knowledge will after this be convinced of the great benefits received by many gardea crops in summer by mulching. The practice of mulching helps to attain a two-fold object. In the first place, its appli- cation as a covering to the soil as far as the bulk of the roots extend is a means of preventing evaporation, and so helping to conserve to a greater degree the influence of heat and moisture in the soil for the benefit of the roots of the subjects it is applied to. It also supplies a rich top-dressing to estab- lished trees and many garden crops, furnish- ing the numberless masses of annual roots with food which is easily assimilated. More- over, its nutritive properties are washed down to the permanent roots of trees by rain or by artificial waterings. Mulchings are not only of value in helping the various crops to which they are applied in bringing their produce to greater perfection during summer, but they are useful also in protecting trees from permanent injury through long droughts. It may be asked. What is a mulch formed of ? Generally speaking, farmyard manure when partly decayed, mixing with it one-third its bulk of the small littery straw which is generally found associated with it in the manure-yard. Cow manure by itself should be avoided ; it is of too close a texture, tending to seal up the pores of the soil, and thus depriving the roots of air and moisture. Fresh horse manure, on the other hand, is excellent, but this is improved by a little addition to it of the short straw usually collected with the manure. It should be applied in a fresh condition. Where the above materials are unobtainable, a good mulch may be formed by taking care of all forms of soft garden refuse during the summer and winter, for if allowed to heat and ferment in a large heap during winter and spring, turning the material occasionally over, and mixing with it one-fourth of its whole of garden soil, it will form an excellent compost for this purpose. The garden refuse referred to means such things as fallen leaves, short grass (the result of lawn mowings), and all kinds of weeds (the seeds of these will be destroyed by fermenta- tion), the refuse of the kitchen garden packing-shed, in which vegetables are cleaned and stripped of many of their outer leaves. Not only will such materials form an excellent mulch, but also prove a valuable manure. The Crops that Benefit, and the Time TO Apply Maktjee. In the case of fruit trees, all those planted in the previous autumn, winter, or spring should be mulched, otherwise there is grave danger, not only of temporary failure during the coming summer, but also of permanent injury to the bark and roots of the tree. This applies more particularly to standard trees in orchards. It also applies more to Apples worked on the Paradise stock than to those on the Crab, and to Pears when worked on the Quince. The roots, when worked on these stocks, are much nearer the surface. Even for many years afterwards mulch should be applied when possible to fruit trees in hot weather, and to no fruit is it more beneficial than to the Raspberry. To all fruit trees grown against walls it is an absolute necessity if the highest success is to be attained. The time to apply it, in the case of fruit trees, is towards the end of May, when the soil is becoming warmer. The best time to apply it is after a heavy shower or a good watering, and the depth of mulch to apply is 3 inches, pressing it moderately firm, and covering over with an inch or so of soil to prevent its drying up too quickly and to preserve a neat appearance. Where it has not already been applied no time should be lost, for we may have much hot weather yet. The Pea of all the kitchen garden crops benefits most by mulching. On light and not over rich soil it is hopeless to expect heavy and continuous crops without mulch- ings. It is a common experience to find on land such as that mentioned rows of Peas in apparently vigorous health until podding time arrives and the first picking has been gathered, when the plant turns yellow and is oi no furtlj,er service. Whereas if watered and mulched in time the plants would have gone on growing succulent and sweet Peas for another ten days or a fortnight. The best time to apply the mulch is a fortnight before the Peas are in flower, and after rain or a good watering. French Beans and Scarlet Runners are also much benefited treated in the same way. With Regaed to Flowees. It is not necessary to point out to rosarians the value of surface mulching in hot weather in the successful growth of the Rose, they are well aware of the great advantages to be derived from its application. To Roses and other flowering climbing plants on walls with a warm aspect it is most beneficial ; indeed, it often means all the difference between success and failure. There may be some readers of The Gaeden unable, from one cause or another, to obtain any sort of material for mulching, and would be glad to know if there is any other way available by special culture to bring about partial if not so great a success as mulching. Yes ; first by deeply trenching and heavily manuring the land in autumn or winter, thereby giving the roots ample food store in summer, also by hoeing. Many are under the foolish impression that the hoe is useful only for destroying weeds. The hoe cannot speak or would resent such an undeserved imputation. In the hands of a good manipulator it can do that which is far better than talk, it can demonstrate by example its power, not only to destroy weeds, but also its power to add enormously to the fertility and drought- resisting property of soils. By its frequent use the soil for 2 inches or 3 inches deep is kept constantly open, freely admitting all rain that falls and all the dew there may be during the night. What is of more im- portance than many are aware of, abundance of air, which is as necessary to the welfare of the plant as water itself. Therefore, if you cannot mulch make friends of the hoe, and ply it industriously and as frequently as you can in hot and dry weather. No harm will then come to your crops, especially those in the kitchen garden. Mulching and hoeing are the keynotes to success in gardening, and the beginner should make a strong point of giving these helps to vegetation. Owen Thoil4.s. 14 THE GARDEN. [July 14, 1906. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. ~Jaly 17.— Royal Horticultural S )oiety'8 Exhi- biiioQ aiiri Meeting ; SUtaire RoBe Show. July 18 —National Rose Society's Northern Show at E linburgh in connexion with the Royal Ciledonian Sodety's Show; York Florists' Show. July 20 —North Lonsdale Rose Show and National Sweet. Pea Sjoiety's Show in connexion. July 24 — Nitional Carnation and Picotee Society's Soow, Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square. Jaly 25 —Cardiff Flower Show. July 26 — Bolfast (two days) and St. Ives Horticultural Shows. National Rose Society's northern show at Edinburgh.— 1q counexiun with the above the society has arranged with the Great Northern Riilway to issue special cheap tickets at the reduced fare of £2 Oj. 101. third class, and £3 11'. first class return from King's Cross, available for three days, with slepping accommo- dation to be attached to the 8.45 p m. train on July 17. Eirly application to Mr. C. C. Diniels, chief piBsenger agent's office. King's Cross, is particularly requested. Anyone forming a party of five can j lin this train at any stopping place en route, but to obtain reduction tickets must be applied for beforehand as above. Any further information can be obtained of H. E Molyneux, hon. treaiurer National Rose Society, 80, Cannon Street, E C. Viburnum Carlesil.— I see in The Garden that my Viburnum Carlesii which I sent aboui; two years ago to Kew has flowered, and that it is described by one of your contributors. He says that the plant was sent by Mr. Boehmer, a nurseryman of Japan. This, how- ever, is incorrect, and I wish you would correct it. It was sent by me, the nresent proprietor of L. Biehmer and Ci., in Yokohama, Japan.— Alfred Ukoer, Bad Pachoa, Germany. South-west ot Scotland tvaXt crops.- Although fruit is not so largely culii- vatfd for commercial purposes in the south-west of Scotland as in the Clydesdale and Perthshire districts, it is being more extensively grown, and is a crop of increasing importance. This season Apples will be a variable crop, in some gardens there being a good crop and in others a small one. Garden pests have been unusually trouble- some to Apples this season. Pears are not so largely cultivated, and cannot be considered likely to yield an average crop this year. Plums will give a small yield. Small fruits are generally promising, Strawberries, though late, being likely to give good returns. Oatdoor Peaches in some oases suffered from frosts unless well protected, and the crop will not be large. The Gardening Charities.— I beg to call your attention lo a special eff jrt that is being made locally to aid the funds of the Gar- deners' Royal B-'nevolent Institution and the R lyal Girdeners' Orphan Fund. The first-named was instituted in 1839 to provide pensions for gardeners or their widows in destitute circum- stances ; the second was formed in the late Qaeen's Jubilee Year (1887) to provide for the orphan children of gardeners. Lack of funds necessarily greatly limits the work of both socie- ties, and in various parts of the country concerts, garden parties, and other entertainments have been arranged, by the proceeds of which one or both societies have greatly benefited. So far as Darbyshire is concerned, no such thing has been attempted, yet there are a large number of pen- sioners of both funds in the county, but still more seeking the aid which it is impossible to affjrd I venture to make an earnest appeal to all garden lovers on behalf of the two charities. It is pro- posed to bold an exhibition and sale by auction at the Borough Auction Mart, Darby, on Wednes- day, August 1 next, for which gifts are solicited of plants, flowers, fruit, vegetables, or any other articles. At this season, when there is such a profusion of garden products, I trust this appeal will meet with a generous response. To enable the matter to be properly advertised, I would ask intending contributors to forward particulars of their gifts without delay. Notice of contribu- tions will be gratefully received and acknow- lodged by the local honorary secretary, Mr.W. H. Cooke (gardener to the Right Hon. Lord Bslpet), Kingston Hall Gardens, Derby ; or by Messrs. Galbrai th , Beth une, and C o. , Li raited, auctioneers, surveyors, and land agents. Market Flace and Darwent Street, Derby, from either of whom tickets and all further information can be obtained.— R. T. Bethunb. Copper sulphate treatment for the " Blanltet " w^eed.— I have just received The Garden of the 7th inst. , with two valuable notes on copper sulphate treatment for ponds. May I point out to Mr. Wallace that from Mr. Hacking's letter his quantities are *hnut three times too strong. There are 7 000 grains in Tb., and at one-fiftieth of a grain per gallon. 7 000 X 50 would give a strength of lib. to .350 000 gallons. The proportion used in America was lib. to 1,000 000 eallons. Three times 350 000 would give 1.050 000 gallons. It would appear desirable, therefore, to use one- fiftieth of a grain of copper sulphate to 3 gallons, or 1 grain to 150 gallons, even if it proved necessary to repeat the dose at intervals. The possible error of I'oO grain for one-fiftieth and the spraying of enclosed ponds two or three times without changing the water would accentuate the mischief. — J. G. R. Powell, The WUlowa, Ledbury, The earliest Pea. — This year our earliest Pea ID tbe open ground was Carter's Little Marvel, which is quite a fortnight earlier than any of the first earlies. I should add that all sorts were grown at the start in 4^ inch pots in cold frames. The seed was sown in December, and the seedlings planted out the first week in March on warm borders. We gathered Little Marvel on June 8, and had the weather been favourable there would have been good pods at the end of May, but the severe frost early in that month actually killed the first flowers. This variety is a great gain in every way when forced, as when fit for use, in spite of Its maturing so quickly, it is a fair-sized pod and well packed with Peas. There are five to seven on an average in each pod, and, unlike some of the older early Peas, it is of good flavour. The plant crops enormously, and this so early in the season is worth noting. The Little Marvel was raised from the older but well known William Hurst and that fine table Pea Daisy, the latter being noted for quality and as a valuable second early Pea. Marvel differs from both in this respect ; the pods are rounder than those of Daisy, and larger than William Hurst. It should also make a most profitable market variety, as it is only 18 inches high, robust, and crops freely. The seed, which was sown late in February in the open, produced plants that bore only a few days later than that grown as described above, but this is readily accounted for by the first blossom escaping injury by frost, being a little later from seed sown February 24. We gathered pods on June 16 and freely on Jane 18, and the plant is covered to the base. For gardens limited in size tbe above variety should become a great favourite. —G. Wythes. Edinburgh parks and gardens. The general appreciation of the improvement in the parks and public gardens of Edinburgh effected since Mr. J. W. M'Hittie was appointed City Gardener, has led to his receiving hearty support from the community in his efforts to render the city even more beautiful than before. This year the arrangements for the summer bedding in tbe parks and gardens, which have just been completed, are upon a scale of greater magnitude than before, and provide for the decoration of the principal public gardens in an effective way. As usual, the principal part of the bedding is in the East Princes Street Gardens, where the flower - beds which in spring were highly eff^-ctive with their masses of Tulips and other spring flowers, have been filled with summer-flowering plants, cira- prising Ivy-leaved and zonal Polarponiums, Fuchsias, Lobelias, Dracsenas, Aralias, Huraeas, . and other suitable plants. Tbe arrangement is effective, and promises to equal any former display in these gardens, if not to surpass it. In the East Princes Street Gardens two novel features will attract visitors. The most impor- tant is a large rockery surrounding the R)8b fountain, and planted with many good shrubs. Rhododendrons, Heaths, AzUeas, Veronicas, and other suitable shrubs being largely employed in its furnishing. The bedding out in this garden also promises to be excellent. The Waverley Gardens, Calton Hill, Inverleith, and other parks and gardens under the charge of Mr. M'Hattie, have been given a share of the increased planting with flowers, and the arduous work of planting some 170,000 plants has been completed admir- ably. In a short time the effect will be remarkably pretty, and will much improve the aspect of the Scottish capital. The Moccasin Flower (Cyprl- pedium spectabile). — Tbis is a success with us among a rare collection of rock plants. Its quaint rose and white flowers are very con- spicuous and much admired. The plant requires no protection in winter, but thrives in peaty i-O'l in any damp place. — Samoel Bryan, County Dublin. Sauromatum guttatum. — Pieaie allow me to add something to Mr. F. G Like's interesting letter in The Garden of the 9 h ult. on the subject of Sauromatum guttatum. I have grown this aroid for some years in my garden here, and have found it a curious and interesting plant. The largest corms I have been able to grow are about 4^ inches across the top and 3 inches through. Much smaller ones will bloom. I first regarded it a3 tender, but have found that it will survive our winters if well covered. My best plants this season are those that were left out all winter. The roots grow out from the tops of the corms. I have not grown any matured seed, and doubt that it will ripen in this climate. The increase comes from new corms growing from the tops and sides of the old ones ; each will produce from one to six of the small corms. These are sessile, and can be broken off at any time after the ripening of the parent corm and can be planted separately. The first show in the spring is the flower which rites from the soil, in the case of a vigorous plant from 12 inches to 18 inches. In the bud state the spathe, which is purple on the outside, covers the spadix to the tip. After reaching its full height the bud stands without apparent change for a day or so, and then the spathe falls back, exposing the almost black spadix. The spathe is beautifully spotted. The flower is not lasting. Mr. Like omitted to mention the odour ; this reminds one of the smell of a foul pig-sty. As soon as the flower is in full bloom the blow- flies begin to arrive and go down into the lower part of the spathe. The leaves are as curious as the flower ; they begin to come soon after the flower. The petioles in a strong plant are, say, 1^ inches in diameter at tbe base and half an inch immediately under the horseshoe- ohaped frame to which the leaflets are attached. These are all distinct except sometimes at the ends of the frame. They are invariably odd in number, three, five, seven, nine, up to fifteen. The petioles are rich green atd spotted. The broadly-opening horseshoe frame is at aright angle or nearly so to tbe petioles. In early autumn before frost the leaflets begin to wither and the petioles to shrivel, and within a few days the entire leaf drops to the ground. This is the end until] the following spring— Mme. D. Holljs, Chicago, III , U.S.A. TTLYJ14, 1906. THE GARDEN. 1.5 IMS (ONCOCYCLUS) 8PREN0BRII. {About tivo thirds natural size.) A curious nesting- - place. — We often hear of birds, especially tits, building in most unaccountable places, but I do not call to mind a similar case to one I saw when staying lately at Swanmore with Mr. Molyneux. A 9 inch flower-pot had been left on one of the hardy borders in an inverted position, which had done service for sheltering a tender plant, and, on being removed, to the astonishment of the man who was deputed to carry out the work a blue- tit was Bitting on nine eggs. The pot was carefully replaced, and though the bird was disturbed, it soon returned and appeared to get quite used to being inspected. The only entrance and exit was, of course, through the hole in the top, which was only 1 inch in diameter. It will be extremely interesting to watch how the little ones are instructed to escape when the time comes. — E. Beckett. A warning. — We cannot too strongly express a warning to our flower-loving readers in connexion with prominent advertisements now appearing in most of the daily papers, offering wonderful Japanese and other plants for decora- tive purposes, and accompanied by descriptions which are obviously adopted by their vagueness to nullify any legal steps which might be taken against the advertisers for fraud. The special advertisement, which we have before us as we write, emanates from a so-called company domiciled at Kew, a locality obviously chosen to heighten the effect, though no nursery exists at the address given, and on application here for a packet, the reply was, "only supplied through the post." A most attractive description is given of creepers which smother the house-front with a profusion of gorgeous flowers in an incredibly short space of time, while practically nothing is required but to restrain the redundance by tying up, &c. The seeds apparently germinate in three days, grow in the poorest soil, require no atten- tion whatever, and, in short, meet all the require- ments of the flower-lover who wants the maximum of effect with the minimum of trouble. On studying this farrago of eulogium and fog, it is abundantly obvious that a penny packet of mixed ordinary Convolvulus major and the common Nasturtiums would fulfil most of the conditions, and yet the perpetrators of this floral trap coolly offer a packet for 2s., which, judging by the numerous expensive advertisements now appear- ing, is obviously remitted by a suflBciently large number of victims to leave a handsome margin on the outlay. This advertisement, unfortunately, is only one of a type of baits for the ignorant, Heracleum gigantenm, for instance, practically a huge weed, figures occasionally as a magnificent plant with bouquets of flowers as big as cart- wheels, and so on. Advertisements of this kind are nothing else than traps for the ignorant, craftily designed by the omission of all names or definite descriptions to escape the dutches of the law for misrepresentation, and yet they are nothing other than methods of obtaining money under false pretences, since the legitimate prices of the seeds they offer are not a tithe of those demanded on the strength of grossly-exaggerated descriptions. It is far better to buy named seeds from respectable tradesmen than unnamed "phenomena" from bogus firms whose glowing advertisements are mere lures for gullible amateurs. — C. T. D. Cleaning hedges.— A few days ago I was asked to look at a Holly hedge which was showing signs of decay. It was about 10 feet high, and had been kept properly clipped and well tree ted generally, but the lower half was beginning to show signs of weakness and thin- ness in places. On looking into the middle of the hedge I found there were about 3 feet of dead leaves piled up through the lower branches, and these were the cause of the mischief. They have since been cleared out, and the hedge will probably quickly improve. If this refuse had been left, nothing could have saved the lower part. The hedge ran from north-east to south- west, so that it was rarely that a strong wind blew through it. These dead leaves accumulate in two ways— firstly, by the natural fall of the dead leaves from the plants ; and, secondly, by the smaller clippings from the top, which fall through and settle at the bottom. With a thick, well-furnished hedge these leaves may not be noticed until they begin to do harm. It is most necessary to have them cleaned out, or in course of time they will ruin the lower part of the hedge. — J. Clark, Bagshot, Surrey, Supporting herbaceous plants.— Where large numbers of these plants are grown, it often becomes a serious question how they are to be supported in order that they may present as neat and natural an appearance as possible. This is frequently a difficult problem, for when supported in the ordinary way with stakes and tying material they generally have a stiff and bunched appearance, particularly such as F£eonies, Lupins, Oriental Poppies, Alstrcemerias, and others, no matter how carefully the work is done. Again, their foliage is apt to suffer at times, at least, when ordinary stakes and rafHa, or soft cord, are used. Here we have about an acre of borders and beds occupied with herbaceous plants, and for some years I have adopted a method of supporting them, other than by stakes and raffia, namely, by means of Pea-sticks. These, prepared according to the height of the plants, and carefully placed round the plants, enable the latter to retain an easier and more natural appearance than was possible by the old method. Naturally, there still remain many plants, such as Phloxes, Delphiniums, Yerbas- cums, and others of a slender habit that must be supported in the ordinary way. Wherever the nature of the plant admits of support with branches, however, they may advantageously be used. They look better, and the work is more easily and quickly performed. When fixing the stakes, the foliage is held back with the one hand and the stake thrust into the ground with the other ; then the foliage and flower-heads are allowed to fall gently back upon the branches, which, in a few days, become invisible. — Jas. Jeffrey, St. Mary's Isle, Kirkcudbright. THE FLOWER GARDEN. A NOTE ON lEISES. IN regard to the cultivation of the two Irises of which I send you photographs, I have grown I. tectorum alba from a very small bit to flowering size. It has been grown for two years in a pot in an unheated greenhouse, the soil being a mixture of equal parts of fibrous peat and loam. It is well supplied with water during the summer, but kept quite dry from about October to March. In the case of I. Sprengerii I cannot speak with authority, as the plant which flowered was only sent to me by Mr. T. Smith a few weeks before flowering. Another plant, however, has done fairly well (though it has not flowered) with ordinary Oncoeyclus treatment, i.e., it has been grown in a cold frame with other species, planted in a soil consisting of three parts chalk and one part loam. The frame receives free ventilation at all times, but the lights are kept on and the plants are kept perfectly dry from about the middle of June to the end of September. From October to June the lights are drawn off, except during severe weather and in very heavy rain. In spells of severe frost the lights are left on and covered with mats at night, these being always removed during the day. The beds are left exposed to moderate rain, but I do not think it is advisable IBM TKCTOBUM ALBA. (About two-thirds natural siw.) 16 THE GAKDEN. [July U, 1906. to allow them to be thoroughly saturated during the months of December, January, and February. So little growth is going on at that time that the roots and rhizomes are apt to rot if they become very wet. My experience so far does not seem to indicate that the plan of using large quantities of bone-meal in the soil (as recommended by the late Rev. H. Ewbank) is a success. I have two frames which have received identical treatment except in the matter of soil, the one having a soil as above stated of simply chalk and loam, while the other has (or rather had) a soil of loam and gravel mixed up with bone-meal until the mixture had a greyish tinge. In the first bed almost every plant has done well (Oncocyclus, Regelias, and Regelio-Cyclus), whereas in the other absolutely every plant has done badly, and many have died. I have now taken up all the plants that remained alive and removed the top 12 inches of bone-meal soil, replacing it by the ordinary chalky mixture. I shall replant in September, and shall be curious to see how many of the decrepit but still living plants will recover. Beading. F. W. Stansfield. THE STARRY COLUMBINE. Aqoilegia 8TBLLATA, Or the Starry Columbine of the old horticulturists, is a plant that repays attention, though it is almost unknown to modern gardeners, and if you wear a flower of it development constantly occurs. More than twenty distinct varieties are now in full bloom in the writer's garden. The illustration hardly aflFords a fair representation, as the beauty of the colouring is wanting, and the form can only be partially discerned. Cottingham, Hull. Margaret Bickerstbth. THE FLA.ME NASTURTIUM. I WAS much interested in reading Mr. Trower's notes on this valuable Trop^olum speciosum on page '22.S. Like many others, I grew this plant for years with very little success. I have often been told by those who ought to have known better that this plant would only grow on a damp spot with a north aspect. I am glad to find that Mr. Trower's experience is just the opposite to this. Last summer, when visiting the gardens of Sir R. Tyrwhitt Wilson, at Stanley Hall, Bridgnorth, I was delighted to find it growing most luxuriantly on a hot, dry border fully exposed to the sun. I was informed that the plants had only been planted about three years, and that now they have some difficulty in keeping it within bounds. The tall- growing plants in the border afforded a nice shade, and the manure which the plants received materially helped the Tropseolum, while the exposure to the sun brought out the colour of the flowers, and gave the whole border a most effective appearance. Our thanks are due to Mr. Trower for giving us his experience with this interesting subject; and if those anxious to estab- lish the Flame Flower in their gardens will only follow his advice we shall not hear of many failures. T. B Field. Ashwdlthorpe, Norwich. found among the ferruginous rooks and stones in the Cogne Valley. It is the curious M. thomasianum, with glaucous foliage, and numerous small flowers, lilac veined with bright carmine. The seed-pods, which are conspicuously winged and undulating, have a curiously orna- mental appearance. Although this plant is a native of ferruginous soils, we grow it well in our limestone walls. Floraire, near Geneva. Henri Correvon. THE FRUIT GARDEN. SOME ORNAMENTAL ^THIONEMAS. jEthionema armbnom. — This is a beautiful Oriental species which at the present time is a source of delight to all garden lovers who happen to visit our wall garden at Floraire. It forms close tufts of flowers of a very bright rose colour ; the flowers are produced in hunches, closely packed one against another. This plant is extremely free flowering, and blooms unceas- ingly from April 15 to the end of July. The flowers are 80 abundant that one can see neither shoots nor leaves, and the plant forms a veritable cushion of rose - coloured flowers. It should be planted in the crevice of a rock or wall in full sun. Other Ji^thione- mas which one can recommend THB NEW STARRY COLUMBINE (AQQILEQIA STBLLATA). in your button-hole no one will recognise it as an Aquilegia. The present writer found a single blossom on a small plant some years ago, and from that capsule a beautiful race of plants has resulted. Careful hybridisation, and the exclu- sion of inferior specimens, have produced infinite variety, both in form and colouring. The colours vary from the darkest purple to pure white, rosy crimson tipped with white, blue and white, and even green and white. The shape varies from very double flowers to almost perfectly single ones, the latter resembling Anemones. But you may look in vain for any characteristic of the well-known Columbine till you notice the leaves. The seedlings are most interesting, as some new 1 JS,. grandiflorum, less flori- ferous and less showy than JK. armenum, but most interesting, and of an equally beautiful colour ; JE. pulchellum, much like the preceding ; JE. coridifolium, with flowers which recall those of JE. armenum, yet they are violet-rose, lined with a brighter colour, and with a strong Pineapple ■ like fragrance; JE. cordatum, with yellowish white flowers, and the appearance of a small shrub ; and M. iberideum, white flowered, blooms very early, March to April. All these species are of Eastern origin, and succeed well with us, especially if they are planted in the crevices of a very sunny wall. The Piedmont Alps have given us a species totally different from the others ; it is only to be NEW MELONS. N the Royal Horticultural Society's Journal, recently to hand, there is furnished a list of the Melons that have received awards from the fruit committee during the past twenty-two years. The list comprises seventy-four varieties, so-called ; but, com- mencing only twenty-two years since, the list does not include such famous varieties as Hero of Lockinge, Blenheim Orange, Sutton's A 1, and some others still widely grown. It is interesting to rujte that in the seven years from 1883 to 1889 inclusive only nine awards to Melons are recorded. In the ten years from 1890 to 1899 inclusive no less than forty-eight awards w«e made, the committee having then been either in a generous mood or Melons during that decade were of higher flavour than during the preceding years. From 1900 to 190.5 inclusive— six years — the awards were seventeen, and if the same ratio be continued for the ensuing four years the proportion should be about twelve more, or twenty-nine in all. That would represent a material decline from the generosity of the nineties. It is interesting to note — as showing how varied is either the mood of the committee or else the quality of seedling Melons, and the latter is, perhaps, the primary reason — that while in 190.3 six awards were made and in 1900 five awards, in 1901 and 1902 only two were made in each year, and in 1904 and 1905 only one each. Thus there is so far a reduction in the number of Melons obtaining certificates. But there has been during the past year or two a reduction in the number of Melons presented to the committee as new. That may be due partially to Melon growers having utilised all possible crosses or to a realisa- tion of the fact that crosses produce no improve- ment if new, or it may be that the Melon market is overcrowded and seedsmen and growers are surfeited. The number of awards made during the past twenty-two years, numerous as they are, give little idea of the many assumed new varieties that have been presented to the fruit committee during those years and rejected. Really, improved Melons will have to come from quite new strains. D. APPLE HANWELL SOURING. It may be of interest to some of your readers to know that this is a very old Apple. I well remember many fine large trees in cottage gardens and farm orchards in Hanwell ; in fact, it would be difSoult to find an orchard without its Hanwell Souring. It is very acid. Few boys care to eat it before Christmas, and not much afterwards in its raw state, but as a kitchen Apple, for use from Christmas till July, no variety is equal to it. I wonder it is not found in other parts of the country. My father was always delighted to show sound fruits which had been in a cellar ten months from the time of gathering. Berki. W. J. Townsbnd. APPLE ANNIE ELIZABETH. Rarely are such beautiful examples of this useful Apple seen at exhibitions as those from Bear Wood at the Temple show recently, and no doubt the quality was fully equal to the appearance, July 14, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 17 for when well kept this variety is a fine table Apple late in the season. I have grown the Apple under various conditions of soil and climate, and it has never failed to give satis- faction. Taking an average of seasons through, it is not, as a rule, one of the heaviest cropping sorts. The growth is strong and healthy, and the tree is hardy even in exposed and cold situations. I see Mr. Bunyard recommends the variety in "The Fruit Garden" for seaside gardens, and though I have had no experience respecting the tree in such positions, I should be prepared to believe it would thrive, for it grows in some very bleak and trying districts in the Midlands and the North. On heavy or rich soils it is inclined to make too much growth, but on medium and lighter soils it is more moderate in habit, and also more productive aa a bush tree. L. Castle. NEW AND RARE PLANTS. L^LIO-CATTLEYA PHCEBE. THIS beautiful hybrid Orchid was first raised by Mr. Xorman C. Cook- son many years ago, its parents Ijeing Cattleya Mossite and Laelia cinnabarina. Since then many hybridists have raised this most fascinating and desirable Orchid. The form illustrated was raised in the collection of Mr. Jeremiah Colman, and called, after his beautiful Surrey home, "the Gatton Park variety.'' It was awarded the first diploma at the Koyal Horticultural Society's meeting on the 12th ult. for the best hybrid obtained from Cattleya Mossise. The petals and sepals are very bright orange yellow, the lip being vivid amethyst red. In L.-C. Phoebe the range of colour in the petals and sepals is extended from lemon yellow to copper yellow, making most useful material either for exhi- bition or for house decoration. This Orchid is of easy culture, providing a good rest is afforded after the flowering season is over till the new bulb gets well advanced. When the new bulb is fully developed, rest again till the flower-buds are in evidence. When the plant is growing freely, and also when the flower-buds are developing, plenty of water is required. B. THE ROSE GARDEN. EOSE NOTES. GARDENIA. — If the wiohuraiana Roses lasted longer, some of the Tea-scented sorts would have to take second place. Just now there is nothing more beautiful than the buds of this Rose. As a button- hole it is exquisite ; a rich canary yellow, the outer petals lemon white, and of a delightful shape. The buds are surrounded by two or three others in a smaller stage, which should be remembered when plucking if only coat flowers are required. The foliage is a fresh green, free from all fungoid scars, and quite Tea-like in colour. Gardenia makes a good pillar Rose, with its great drooping branches. I like to see it best lifted off the ground by some roots or other supports, and allowed to ramble at will. A three year old plant of this Rose would cover a spice of 100 square feet, the annual growths being of prodigious length. To maintain the quality of buds the old wood needs to be freely discarded each year. Helene Ouillot (Hybrid Tea-scented). — Next to the Catherine Mermet race, this is one of the most beautiful in shape of all Roses, each flower LalLIO-OATTLBTA PH(EBB GATTON PARK VARIETY. (Slightly reduced.) This beautiful Orchid gained a diploma at the Royal Horticultural Society's meeting on the 13th ult. in its half- open stage being beauti- fully moulded and twisted in the centre almost to a point. The colour is flesh, passing to salmon white. Exhi- bitors would do well to grow more of this Hose, especially upon stand- ards, and the second year splendid flowers will result from planting in good soil, and manuring freely with farmyard manure. We seem to want a few more of this type of Rose, aa many new sorts are none too full, although unsurpassed in colouring. Zepherin Drouhin.— This old Rose is equal to many of the new comers, and finer than some novelties. It is a charming colour — cherry pink — and more beautiful than such sorts as Mme. Jules Grolez in colour. In the bud the shape is exquisite, the open flowers becoming rather flat and the form confused. The scent is very sweet. Belonging as it does to the Hybrid Bourbons, we are assured of a good autumn bloom, a feature that is most welcome in any Rose, and I feel sure this variety will be much prized by all who grow it. It is particularly adapted for pillars, and would make a splendid head as a standard. For pegging down or to grow as a free bush it would be equally serviceable. A BeautifiU Rose, Lady Waterlow. — This is one of M. Nabonnand's Roses. It is a seedling from Li France de '89, crossed with Mme. Marie Livalley. There is a blending of both Roses in the seedling, the foliage demonstrating this in the one case, and the lovely tinting of the pollen parent is manifest in the grand colour of Lady Waterlow. Perhaps it is not so much the colour that attracts as the shape of the semi-double blooms. In the bud state they are as handsome as a Tea Rose ; then they open to great blooms, with three or four rows of petals displaying a beautiful array of golden stamens. The delicate peach pink and other tints combine to make a flower of much beauty. It is well adapted for wall culture, also for pillars, especially short pillars to disperse among bush Roses, and as a standard it will be much sought after, making that free style of head which is so valuable a feature in a standard Rose. Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant.— This Rose is never seen better than in the first flush of the Rose season when the weather is not so hot. The dwarf sort is good, but the climber is better, seeing that it will grow, whereas often the other will not. I have often advised the planting of Climbing Mrs. W. J. Grant for providing a quantity of beautiful and shapely buds in the 18 THE GARDEN. [July 14, 1906. M BOSE UNA IN THE BOYAL GABDENS, EBW. early days of June, and I, perhaps, may repeat my advice to gardeners to plant rows of this Rose across the kitchen or reserve garden, and I can promise them an abundance of buds for table decoration or for other purposes. Purity. — As an early-flowering Rose this variety is well to the front. Anyone seeing its charming buds and half-open flowers when out would take it for a Hybrid Tea, but it can scarcely be that, as it never blooms in the autumn. For cut flowers the buds are most useful. Parity is nearly pure white, but not quite. There is a slight flush in the centre of the buds, which gives them a very sweet appearance. I believe this pretty Rose was raised by the late Mr. Henry Bennett, although distributed by another firm of Rose growers. For hedge work it would be a most useful sort, not for a tall hedge, but, say, one about 4 feet to 5 feet, such as is often used to shield the Tea Rose beds from cutting winds. It would make also a good free-headed standard, such as we want to growj in standard form. There are far too many of the stumpy sorts that bring discredit upon the useful standard Rose. P. ROSE UNA. spines. As previously stated flowers are borne with remarkable freedom. In the bud stage they are of a very pretty buff colour, chang- ing as they open until fully-expanded blossoms are almost pure white. The blooms are semi-double, and when at their best measure from 3 inches to 4 inches across. Like most other Roses it is only seen at its best when growing in rich loamy soil, and when first planting it is necessary to see that this is provided. After the flowers are over the worst of the old flowering wood must be cut away, to leave room for the growth of strong young shoots, which develop freely, and from which the best blooms are obtained. The subject of the above illustration is a bed to be seen near the] temperate house in the Royal Gardens, Kew. W. Dalumobb. PERRY'S SEEDLING PINKS. R. AMOS PERRY'S Hardy Plant Farm at Winchmore Hill is well known — by name at least — to lovers of hardy plants. Soon, however, Mr. Perry's Hardy Plant Farm will have forsaken Winchmore Hill for its new quarters at Enfield ; in fact, the ground at the latter place is now fairly well stocked. There were many beautiful plants in flower on the occa- sion of a visit a few days ago. The Oriental Poppies in their rich colouring made a bril- liant display. No less pleasing were the Heucheras (masses of graceful soft-toned blossom), the Paeonies, Lilies, Irises, and a grand collection of hybrid Eremurus, the flowers varying in colour from yellow to white through many charming shades. Mr. Perry has quite a remarkable collection of these noble early summer-flowering plants. The Pinks shown in the accompanying illustration made a delightful show. Mr. Perry has got a first-rate strain of these flowers. The plants produce an abundance of flowers on strong, upright stems that show them to the best advantage. Most of the forms are single, though some are semi- double. The colours are most varied. These Pinks are sure to become popular, for they have all the characteristics of a good garden plant. PONDSIDE PLANTING. THOSE who fortunately have in their gardens a stream or pond, and know how to garnish the margins with beautiful water-side plants, can give much additional interest and attrac- tiveness to their garden landscape. Sometimes we see ponds and pools with bald and lifeless margins, when just by planting a few groups of suitable plants they may be made as attractive as the pondside shown in the accom- panying photograph recently taken in the garden at Clives, Boxted. Here is an instance of a pond Six years ago Messrs. Paul and Sod, Cheshunt, introduced this charming climbing Rose into our gardens, to be followed a year later with a companion plant named The Lion. Both are very beautiful Roses, the latter a single red, after the manner of Carmine Pillar, the former a pale buff or almost white. Of the two, Una seems to have made most head- way, its strong habit, large delicately-coloured flowers, fra- grance, and free-flowering quali- ties finding it many admirers. It belongs to the section known as Hybrid Tea, and can be used as a pillar plant for covering trellises or for a bed on a lawn where it can have abundance of room to develop. Branches often attain a length of 10 feet or more, and these are armed with very strong ..-■; *- ■■'" ;,,-<'-^ - ■ ■ ^^'<^y€ --.s^"^^ ■*>> ^^^6.4^. '" - v -„i»a«,'-"5*^:^* . -'V^.i>^ ■■. « >■>> ft •■ • ~ -v."' ^J'i' . <>■:.,, >-T- ^r> --J-^V ■• "^<>'V > -^.V»t^5H. " "^^^^■S*-^*^^-:: ^^'i^s^^l^''^ ^ .*,,.v-. ^^^^^^^fep^^^^^^^^^^Bl^^^^^^^^^^^*^^^^^^^^H^VV^B^^SlH^^MBflUk)^nM^^^^^^^^^^I £JL?ll^K.''SB^C^jHkiKVkHM^^^S^^Hc^vV^BMBBMH^^^^^H ^^ai^KmmM7S:L^^^9^3fl^KK''Jti ■■■ i^^B«''- ..»«■■ ■^#^^1^" •■^^ ^^% SBBDLIKG PINKS IN MB. AMOS PBBBY'S NUBSBEY AT BNFIBLD. Jtot 14, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 19 which two or three years ago did not exist, and was made by building a dam across a tiny rill of water which now spreads out in a spacious pond. As soon as this was done the margins were planted with masses of water plants, such as the Reed Mace (Typha), Water Iris, and Water Lilies (Nymphaaas). These were planted in the bed of the pond near the edges and are always submerged. Higher, where the soil is always moist but not water-logged, are groups of Irises that love moisture. The Siberian Iris and its varieties begin the colour effect in May and June, and are succeeded by masses of Ksempfer's Iris, Iris ochroleuca, and I. aurea, which carry on the flowering time throughout June. Then follows the Loose-strife (Lythmm Salicaria), Water Banunculus, Spiraeas of all kinds (herbaceous and shrubby), and numerous other plants to which the owner (Mr. Clementson) is continually adding. submerged include the Calthas (Marsh Marigolds), flowering Rush (Butomus umbellatus). Arrow- heads (Sagittarias), Water Iris (I. Paeudaoorus), Reed Mace (Typhas), and Bog Bean (Menyanthes). Among those that like a wet place but not water-logged are the Siberian and Japanese Irises, I. aurea, I. ochroleuca, all the herbaceous Spirseas, particularly S. palmata, S. astilboides, S. Aruncus, 8. gigantea, and S. venusta, the purple Loose-strife (Lythrum), the yellow Loose- strife (Lysimachia thyrsiflora), and Willow herb (Epilobium angustifolium), purple and white. These in groups would give colour throughout the summer, to be succeeded by the later things, such as Tritomas of various kinds, Pyrethrum uliginosum, and scarlet Lobelia cardinalis, all of which love a wet place. To heighten the effect one might have groups of the large leaved plants, such as Polygonum and ponds, one ought to see pleasing effects such as the illustration shows, but so long as more attention is bestowed on ducks and other water- fowl— all enemies to water gardening — we cannot hope for better things. W. Goldring. THE GREENHOUSE. FREES IAS. 1KN0W of nothing that gives a better return for little trouble, more especially in the amateur's small greenhouse, than the Freesia. My plan of growing Freesias is to pot up the bulbs early in August in a rich soil, three parts loam, one part leaf-soil, and some sand, with a 6-inch potful of soot to a barrow of soil. Place ten bulbs in a 5-inch PONDSIDD PLANTING AT CLIVE3, BOXTED, ESSEX. Water-plant gardening is so simple and gene- rally gives so satisfactory and quick results that more attention should be given to it, for even in places where the supply of water is not perma- nent or plentiful much may be done by making artificial depressions and puddling the bottom with clay and then turning into it the surface drainage of paths or higher ground. In such places many of the plants that are usually termed water-side plants will flourish in a way not possible in a dry border on the level. .. There is a long list of water-side plants given in catalogues, but it is best to narrow the selected list to about a score of the finest kinds which can be relied on to give satisfactory colour effects in succession, and that can, by reason of their cheapness, be planted in more or less bold masses. Those that like to be partially sachalinense and P. cuspidatum, Bocconia cordata, and the great leaved Gunneras, G. manicata and scabra, as well as the Italian Bamboo (Arundo Donax), these are all, more or less, common and cheap plants, perfectly hardy, and which give no anxiety beyond restraining their sometimes too rampant growth. The rarer and more expensive kinds should not be mixed up with the stronger and commoner, but should have a special place where they can be attended to easily. We should like to see this beautiful phase of gardening become more general, especially in places where the difficulties of water supply can be overcome by simple means, and now that we have Water Lilies of varied hues, a water garden can be made quite entrancing. In public parks and gardens, instead of the bald oement margins one generally sees to the lakes pot and cover with about 1 inch of soil. Place out of doors in a sunny place, say, until the end of September. Then bring into a cool house, placing them near the glass. See that they do not suffer from want of water. When the flower spikes appear about February, the plants should have a little manure water once or twice a week. After flowering, the faded flowers should be pinched off and the plants put in the sunniest place available, and kept well supplied with water until the foliage begins to turn yellow, then reduce the water gradually until all the leaves are dead. The bulbs can be shaken out and stored away in a dry and cool place until it is time to pot them up again. Anyone who cares to carry out these few instructions will be rewarded with plenty of flowers. OoggeshcUl. S. G. Smallridgb, 20 THE (JAEDEN. [July 14, 1906, GARD8NING FOR BSGINNSRS. SUMMER TREATMENT OF THE GOOSEBERRY.— During the summer months lateral growths will push from the branches, in addition to the natural fruit spurs that form upon them. The strongest of these should be pinched back to five or six leaves. The object of thus pinching the shoots in summer GOOSEBEKRY SHOOT IN FRUIT (PRBVIOUS SUMMER'S WOOD, SHOWING ADVANTAGE OF YOUNG GROWTH). time is to prevent overcrowding and to encourage the formation of fruit buds at the base of the shoots so pruned. This is better than allowing the latter to go unchecked until the winter, and then to shorten them down. The Gooseberry bears fruit remarkably well upon wood of the previous year's growth, as well as upon spurs that form on the older wood. This fact should not be forgotten, and wherever there is room to introduce a shoot, instead of pinching, as above described, allow it to develop, and simply shorten it slightly in the winter. The following year it may be expected to bear fruit. Keep the surface of the ground well hoed throughout the summer months ; it will then be kept free from weeds, and the soil will not lose so much of its moisture as if the ground were allowed to become hard. When the fruits are swelling they are greatly assisted by well watering the ground, and especially so if a covering of manure is first put down. Combating Red Spider. — Oa hot, dry soils this is a troublesome little pest, and requires constant watchfulness at this season. Extreme dryness at the root or in the atmosphere generally brings the spider, and he is such an insidious little fellow that it is not easy to detect his presence till the leaves show discoloration. In this, as in many other matters, it is easier to prevent than to cure, and a free use of moisture, both at the root and also among the foliage, is the best anti- dote. Smooth - leaved plants are those which attract him most. The Peach is his favourite feeding-place, and, if permitted, be will soon strip the foliage of their green matter. The Vine and many other plants will also fall a prey to his unwearied exertion unless a plentiful supply of moisture is given to the roots and branches. He is very small — so small that a lens is neces- sary to discover him. When he has established himself, something stronger than water is re- quired. Qaassia extract mixed with water, used freely through the syringe, will check his work. Little Rock Oardens. — A little rock garden gives great pleasure, and when it is well planted makes a bright and interesting feature. We must take as an example a suburban garden in a more or less sunny or shaded aspect. In such circumstances there is usually a position available on one of the sides of the house, and not SIMPLE HINTS. infrequently at the back of the house, the garden being in the rear, where such a rockery can be made. First Steps. — The first point, when a certain site is decided upon, is to dig up the soil as deeply as possible and ensure perfect drainage. This done, the next thing is to make a moderate bank of earth, the highest part not less than 2 feet. The soil for the bank should consist of common soil with a free admixture of road grit, sharp silver sand, I eaf-m ou Id, and very old manure. This must be well mixed together and formed into a gentle slope. If it is intended to make the rockery against the dwelling-house wall, care should be taken when forming up the bank of soil first to place some rough clinkers or brickbats in position against the wall as proof against moisture entering the brickwork. With the bank of earth in position, the stones may now be arranged. It will depend entirely upon the locality whether sandstone, oolite, or any other rock formation is most easily obtainable. In many gardens, those of the London suburbs in particular, clinkers or clinkered burrs are the chief things available ; and certainly with the help of the latter it is possible to grow many plants to perfection. These burrs are usually plentiful where large brick-kilns abound ; they should be rough, as large as possible, and with no brick wall facing. Irises in a Town Garden. — Flag or German Irises are among the most useful of all town garden flowers, and we are glad to be able to publish an illustration which shows them doing well in the town garden of Mr. G. Speight of Market Harborough. Mr. Speight kindly sent us the photograph. "They are growing," our correspondent writes, " in a hot, dry soil ; we give them a mulch of manure in early spring, from which they derive much benefit." THE GREENHOUSE. Agapanthus umbellatus. — This is the African Lily, and a very old and universal favourite. It forms a thick, fleshy root-stock, from whence are pushed up tufts of sword-like leaves. The heads of blue flowers appear, as a rule, in July and August. It is well adapted for growing in large pots or tubs for standing outside during the summer, as in this way the flowers are more richly coloured than if they develop in a shady place. Established plants will not need re- potting for years, but should be assisted during the growing season by occasional doses of liquid manure or some of the many concentrated plant foods which are now so popular. This Agapan- thus dies down in winter, when it may be kept dry, and in any spot safe from frost. Besides the normal form there is a white variety called albus. Agathaa crelestis (the Blue Marguerite). — Now that Daisy-like flowers are so much admired, the Blue Marguerite is grown far more than it was formerly. It is very easily grown, and forms a bushy plant, which is studded more or less freely throughout the greater part of the year with Daisy-like flowers, an inch or a little more across, and of a pleasing shade of blue. Cuttings of the young growing shoots strike root easily at almost any time. Amaryllis (Hippeastrum). — A beautiful class of bulbous plants with flowers of varied colouring, from nearly white to deep crimson. They were regarded at one time as stove plants, but though generally grown in a somewhat warmer structure than the greenhouse, they may be satisfactorily grown in the latter. They start into growth early in the new year, and flower in the spring, after which the leaves still develop and the bulb FLAG IRISES IN A TOWN OAEDBN. July 14, 1906.] THE GAEDEN. 21 recaperates for another season. They may be grown in summer in a oold frame facing south, whioh should be shut up early in order to catch a certain amount of sun-heat. About July or August the leaves will begin to turn yellow, and the plant shows signs of going to rest, when the water supply must be diminished and finally dis- continued altogether. At that time all the sunshine possible should be given them, as upon the thorough ripening of the bulbs depends the future display of bloom. Daring winter no water will be required, but towards the end of January a little may be given, after which the flower-spikes will soon begin to appear. Re- potting, if necessary, should be done in January, the most suitable soil being two parts loam to one of leaf-mould, with a liberal sprinkling of silver sand. It is not necessary, however, to repot every year, as was at one time done. If the roots are in good condition it may be dispensed with, taking care to give a slight stimulant occasionally during the time of growth. Aloyaia citriodora (the Lemon - scented Verbena). — This well-known plant is much appreciated for the fragrance of its leaves. Cuttings of the young shoots strike in the spring, if put into pots of sandy soil and kept close till rooted. It will grow in ordinary potting soil, and may, if wished, be kept outside during summer. In winter, when the plant is leafless, it must be kept fairly dry and wintered in any place just safe from frost. Aralia Sieboldi. — This is an evergreen shrub with large, leathery, Fig-like leaves. It is an excellent plant for rooms as well as for the green- house and conservatory. It is nearly hardy, and very easily grown in ordinary soil. Araucaria excelsa (the Norfolk Island Fine). — This, like the preceding, owes its popularity not to flowers but to the beauty of its foliage. It forms a symmetrically-shaped specimen, with the frond-like branches disposed in regular whorls round the stem. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand suits it well, and at all seasons it must be regularly watered. wagus, — Some of the kinds of Asparagus, notably A. plumosus, with its several varieties, and A. Sprengeri, are now much grown for the sake of their beautiful Fern-like foliage. They need ordinary potting soil, water at all seasons, though, of course, more in summer than in winter, and an occasional syringing during very hot weather. Azalea. — Botanists tell us the plants grown in gardens as Azaleas are really Rhododendrons, but from the standpoint of the amateur gardener the two are quite distinct^ Two very distinct types are used for the greenhouse — viz., the hardy deciduous sorts, which are flowered under glass in early spring, and the evergreen Indian Azaleas, that are essentially greenhouse plants. The hardy Azaleas need only to be repotted in autumn (choosing, of course, plants with plenty of flower-buds), and in a glasshouse they will flower well at a time when the Azaleas outdoors are still dormant. The Indian Azaleas are largely sent to this country from the Continent in the shape of small bushy plants on stems about 6 inches high. These are sold in autumn when bristling with flower-buds, and if potted firmly in sandy peat, using pots about 6 inches across, they will succeed well. A dry soil is very injurious to their delicate, hair-like roots, on whioh account the soil must always be kept moist. The flowers appear, as a rule, in March and April, and when over any shoots that seem likely to spoil the symmetry of the plant may be shortened back. After this place the plants in the warmest part of the greenhouse and syringe frequently. Young shoots will soon push out, and directly they appear repot the plants if necessary. Good fibrous peat, mixed with rough silver sand, is very suitable. The pots selected should be from 1 inch to 2 inches wider than the old ones, quite clean, and well drained by broken crocks, a large piece, with the concave side downwards, being first placed over the hole in the bottom, and after that small pieces to the depth of an inch or so. When potting, see that the old ball of earth is quite moist. When some soil has been put in the bottom of the new pot and made quite firm, the ball should be placed on it to see if it is the correct depth. In potting Azaleas the roots must not be buried deeper than before, and the old ball not stand higher than the new. Between the rim of the pot and the soil there should be a space of half an inch for watering. In potting, work the soil down firmly and evenly with a piece of wood. If the new soil is left at all loose, the water will drain through that and leave the old ball of roots dry. When potted, the plant or plants should be well watered with a watering- can, to which a rose is attached. This will tend to settle the soil in position ; but the ball must be thoroughly watered. After this frequently syringe the plants and encourage as free a growth as passible. By the end of June they may be placed out of doors, as this will well ripen the young growth. Daring the summer watering must not be neglected, and a good syringing after a hot day is helpful. Before there is any danger of autumn frosts, the Azaleas must be taken to the greenhouse. It does not follow that potting yearly is necessary. Azaleas may, in some cases, be kept in the same pot for years and not suffer. The beginner is advised not to attempt the propa- gation of the plants, but the following list of varieties will be useful : Apollo, scarlet ; Bern- hard Andrea alba, double white ; Deutsche Ferle, double white, very early ; Edmond Vervaene, claret red ; Empress of ladia, salmon rose and white ; General Postmaster Stephens, amaranth red ; baerensiana, double rose and white ; J. T. D. Llewelyn, carmine-rose and white ; Konigrin de Weisser, a pure white-fringed flower ; Mme. Norveux, bright rose, with white fringe ; Mme. Van der Cruyssen, purplish rose ; Memoire de Louis Van Houtte, deep rose, a grand flower ; Ferle de Ledeburgh, white, striped with red ; Roi de Hollande, deep red ; Souvenir du Frince Albert, salmon red and white ; Simon Mardner, intense double rose flower ; and vervaeneana, rose and white. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub, Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. A New Anchusa. Mr. Molyneux sends from Swanmore Fark, Bishop's Waltham, Hants, flowers of a variety of Anchusa italica called Opal. It reminds one of the Swanmore variety, but the flowers are, as the name suggests, paler in colour, a peculiarly beautiful opal-like shade. IXIAS FBOM BeBWICKSHIEE. Mrs. Eunice Grey, Eooles, Kelso, Berwick- shire, writes : " Having seen one or two notes re Ixias in The Gabdbn lately, I send you a few blooms from an outdoor bed here. This is their third season of flowering. Oar soil is very heavy, with a clay sub-soil, and the climate anything but genial. We prepared a small bed in a sunny spot, sheltered from the north and east by high walls. The ordinary soil had sand and gritty material mixed with it. and the bed is lightly covered with fronds of Fern during the winter. I tried the Ixias rather as an experiment, and am quite satisfied with their success so far. Of course, the bulbs may not last many years here." [Beautiful flowers of Ixias in various colours, — Ed.] Some of the Newer Violbttas. Mr. Crane of Archway Road, Higbgate, sends flowers of the beautiful Violetta Faneies. Except for the few standard Violettas, of which com- paratively little is known, Violettas have not been added to until the last two years. Those who have grown Violettas have never regretted it, and the prospect of acquiring new and choice sorts should be regarded as a distinct gain. Unlike their larger-flowered rivals, the Violettas bloom later in the season ; as a matter of fact, except in a few special instances, the display does not begin until the month of May. Autumn- planted Violettas, however, have an advantage over those planted ib spring, as they bloom right through the summer and autumn months. Spring- planted tufts seldom flower until May, and the display throughout the warmest days, especially in the south of the United Kingdom, is very wel- come. The flowers are very dainty and their fragrance delightful. Most of the flowers are developed on a long, erect footstalk, which, daintily set out in dwarf vases, enables one to make a display for so many purposes. Violettas for table decorations are so refined that, once they are taken in hand, it is safe to assert they will be frequently used. The following are the newer sorts, each of which should be given a trial in the rock garden in particular : Claribel. — Flower of good form, white, prettily margined blue, suffused yellow on lower petal, nice habit. Cynthia. — Fale, beautifully veined blush lilac, of oval form, rich yellow eye, creeping habit, strong grower. Diana. — Fretty primrose fiower, suffused yellow, quite distinct. Eileen. — Charming deep blue flower, neat yellow eye, free flowering, splendid constitution, spreading habit. Estelle. — Smallest of the miniatures, pure white, slightly suffused yellow, very dainty. Orace. — Purest snow-white flower of ideal form, neat yellow eye, very distinct, habit like the original, Lavinia. — Beautiful blush lavender, veined a deeper shade, creeping habit, vigorous ; this plant makes beautiful tufts. Lucretia. — Fale creamy white, suffused yellow on lower petal, good habit, free flowering. Minerva. — Fretty lavender blue, shaded white on lower petal, compact habit ; rather later than most others. Miss Oertrude Jekyll. — Dainty little bicolor, lower petals rich yellow, upper petals primrose, sturdy grower ; very pretty, early bloomer. Mona. — Charming little deep blue flower with yellow eye, not unlike Rock Blue ; makes beautiful tufts. Olivia. — Interesting flower, colour white, tinted lavender blue, yellow suffusion on lower petal, good habit. Proserpine. — Falest blush, almost white, neat orange eye, good form, creeping-like growth . Sweetness. — Another minute blossom of beautiful form, pure white, with yellow eye, good substance, Thisbe. — Beautiful pale blush flower, with pale yellow eye, free flowering, compact habit, of the finest quality. Vestal. — Beautiful flower of the purest white, yellow eye, compact habit, good constitution. Qtieen of the Tear. — China blue, sometimes flecked with white, very tufted. 22 THE GARDEN. [July 14, 1906. Rock S/«e.— Charming little deep blue flower, with effective, raylesB yellow eye, perfect tufted habit, new, and very choice. RECENT PLANT PORTRAITS. The Botanical Magazine for July containB portraits of Euphorbia procumhens. — Native of South Africa. A strikingly beautiful, low-growing succulent with curiously diverse flowers, some scarlet, others golden yellow. It is by no means a new plant, having been cultivated in England before 170S. It appears, however, to be a rare species. The specimen figured was grown and pent to Kiw by Mr. Justus Corderoy of Blewbury, Didcot. Beulda Wil-s a poor debilitated Mndition of the soil. Try giving the Rnse a good flooding with rain or pond water, and following this with some liquid manure. Previous to giving the water mulch the soil with well-decayed manure. We do not think spraying will help at all. If this watering does not stop the curling, transplant your Ro^es next autumn. Roses sometimes become tired of the soil they are growing in, and a thorough overhauling will frequently work wonders. Rose Btnis Fahino to Open (T. if.).— We think you were rightly Informed that frost was the cause of 'hese malformed bads. Sometimes this trouble arises owing to the wood being insnfQ'iiently ripened, also through errors in praning. Some varieties are also specially addicted to these green centres. A good remedy Is to prune hard and as late as you can with safety. Try and g^t rid, as much as possible, of the old wood, and encourage new, sound wood from the base. You will then have very little of this trouble in the future. When we say prune hard we do not mean to cut back the yoang wood severely. Hiw this wood should be pruned depends upon the sort, the most vigorous being pruned the least, and the dwarf, stumpy growers pruned tlfe ipost, 24 THE GARDEN. [July A, 1906 Rambler Roses Shedding thkir Foliage (J. V. if.)- tTaUttiiy diuughi. ts the cause of this, but it sometlmeB occurs uwtng to spring frosts affecting the f .Huge. Another contributive cause is the overcrowding of Ihe growths. If light is prevented from reaching the foliage, It cannot carry on Its functions, and qulukly decays. If you thinit drought is the cause, give the plants a good soaking of water — n"t drihlpts, but several k 'lions. Withered Grovttu of Dorothy Perkins (B. B).— Although mis Rjse is apparently very pliable, yet the wood will not bear with impunity the unnatural dis- torting you submitted it to, and probably you broke the bark ; but some of the growth appeared to us to have been dead some time. This R ise often has such dead wood upon it, which usually results from imperfect ripen- ing. As you say the rest of the tree ia healthy you need not feel alarmed at this growth going off. W. A. Richardson Pkoducinq Pale Blossoms (^. Jf.)- In our opiiiiun this dtfect in this very popular Rose is owing to a debilitated condition of the plant. Perhaps the plant that Is of the best colour has access to some ingredient in the soil, such as iron, which the pale-coloured plant cannot obtain. Upon highly-fed plants we have always had iha best results. It mny be the p^le-coloured plant is on the de la Gnffarale stock. This is a stock that should be avoldei for this Rose, and whenever possible procure on the Briar. Try watering with guano water, giving it a teaspjonful every ten or twelve days and watering it well in. D » this for the next two months, and weshill be surprised if you do not obtain some good high- coloured blooms in the autumn. FRUIT GARDEN. Peach Foltage Infested ( (T. 4.). — Your light "■oil will ia a meaeureaccouat for the pest on your Peioh trees. The weather during the early part of Mty is in a great measure answerable for the blact-flv- This curls up the tender leaves, and It is difB:ult to dislodge. If Quassia is syringed so that all pirts of the foliage are saturated, and 1 he trees are gone over again the next evening with the Q iissia, and then syringed or hosed daily, you will get rid of the pest. It is also well afterwards to go over the trees and remove all curled leaves or yellow foliage, burning it. You could use for syringing purposes such aids as Tobicoo water or Gishurat ; both these are good if the Q lassia is unobtainable. Vine Lbave8 Scorched {Oarston Park). — After closely examining the leaves sent we fail to see any trace of the pest you name, and we think there is no occasion to use the strong insecticide you suggest. What is really the matter is that your Vine foliage has been scorched by hot sun, and being thin it was soon injured. We were unable to find any mildew. You may have had the houses too warm ; it is easily done at this time of year, and it may be caused by bad glass. We would advise you now to leave a little ventilation on the back ventilators all night; this will induce a stronger growth and allow steam early in the day to escape. Allow your Vines to make a little free growth for two or three weeks, and use a thin alight shade for that time. The Peach leaves sent are burnt, you have not got shot-hole fungus, but the foliage has been wet or syringed when the sua wa« hot. Give more air, and treat as advised for Vines. Syringe freely both night and morning CnooMBER Flagging (C. E. B. .4.). — The cause of your Cucumber plant drooping so quickly was, doubtless, the burst of bright sunshine, together with too much comparatively cold air after the house had been practically closed for some time, and the weather had been aunleaa. Had you shaded and gently ayringed the plant and given less air it would soon have recovered However, it will take no harm. (1) If the morning is sunny give a little air about 8 a.m., gradually increasing it as the sun gains power. Open it about half an inch at first and increase to 2 inches or 3 inches or more by midday. (2) If the plants begin to flag, shade for an hour or two during the hottest pirt of the day with very thin canvas. (3) Bigin to give top-dresainga as soon as the roots appear through the surface soil. When they show through the first top-dressing add more. (4) The cause of drooping ia already given. (5) You probably water them too much. Uatil the plants are well rooted give water only when the soil appears slightly dry. When thev are carrying fruits the soil must be kept quite moist but not wet. (Qi The manure at the bottom should help the plants to grow dressings of light soil are important. Pear Leaves Damaged (ff. Pollard). — From the appearacee of the leaves sent there Is evidenily no insect trouble, and the trees have either been struck by lightning —not a common occurrerce, but It occasionally happens— or the roDts have gone wrong. You do not give us the age of the trees and variety, bur, being standards, we think it may be the foimer cause. It the roots are at fault, it may be due to excessive drought. If your soil is thin or on gravel, mulch with decayed manure and water freely. PEOTEOTiNa STRAWBERRIES (Patrick Duk').—Yoa would Fee a full reply t > this question if you read a note on " The Protection of Ripe Strawberries," on page 281 of The Garden for May 26. Here the writer, who grows some acres, says that even straw used direct from stables is an abomination, and should always be avoided. We fear the practice is too common, but it is wrong. Straw saturated with urine is wrong, but partly-decayed stable manure is even worse. There are much better things for the purpose. Strawberry Kdnners (Egremont).—lt, hardly seems credible thai half the runners you received should have been bind ones. We think Ihe cause of their not flowering must be looked for in some other direction. The particular variety you have, which, by the way, yon do not name, may be one that is not very free flowering, or the plants may have been put out on land which is over-manured. In any case we should certainly not take plants from those runners which have not dowered, and, therefore, have not fruited. Take the runners only from those plants which have proved satinfactory fruiters. Do not, however, destroy the plants this year at all events, leave thera until next summer. Then if ihey show no sign of producing a crop, by all means root them out, and replace them In the following autumn by runners taken from fertile plants. KITCHEN GARDEN. Cabbages Failing {Captain Nicholson) Your plants will do no good until you have thoroughly dressed the land in the winter. It is sick — it one may use the terra — of the same kind of crop. We expect that the soil haa never been given deep cultivation or had the lime necessary to build up strong root-growth. Brassicas soon exhauat the land, and the aoil doea not ahow its poverty till the collapse takes place. It is not so much animal manures or fertilisers that are required, but a thorough liming, and adding such aids as burnt soil, old fine mortar rubble, and all materials that may contain lime. In the autumn give a s;ood dressing. We like gaa-lime used moderately. Place it on the surface for a few weeks ; then trench the land, throwing it up roughly, and in ppring rake over frequently and add any of the materials advised. Burnt soil or road scrapings are excellent. Do not plant any Brassicaa on land planted with a similar crop this year. Give as much change as possible. If you use gas-lime do so sparingly, break it up finely, and expose it on the surface for a little time. Use fresh lime liberally any time the land is vacant. Growing Sbakalb {Soulhemer). — To get Seakale from October to the end of December you must hasten the summer growth by liberal feeding at this season, and lifting early, exposing the roots for a few days before placing them in heat. Then use more warmth than you would two months later. You could not expect such good results as from Kale forced under better conditions a month later, still it can be done if you grow strong roots in an open border fed freely from nowuntil August. You could also early in the spring forward growth by giving the plants some shelter in April. You must get new crown growth perfected before you attempt to ripen for forcing. When the crowns are placed in heat you will, at the early date you note, require quite 10° higher temperature and a close, dark, warm atmosphere. It would not be possible to get it from roots covered over with manure and forced in the open ground at such an early dale. * From May till as late as possible is an easier matter. Here you would want two lota of roots, some on an open border, others on a north or under a north wall. The crown should be banked over in March with from about 2 feet of fine soil, first using fresh lime over the surface to kill slugs. Make the soil firm to prevent warmth entering and forcing the plants. In the open this would give you an early May supply, the north border the latest. You could grow these from root cpttings yearly. This is far better than seed, Top- 1 and theae should be planted in February. A quarter will last three years. We would advise planting a small piece every year, or you could purchase prepared crowns from a southern grower. Use of Nitrate op Soda (Soutlier)ier).—Vse the nitrate In sho*ny weather and fitquenlly water in. For one gallon only a small quantity is required ; 2 z. or 3u«. would suffice, the weaker dose beine for tender plants. Peas bcOROHED (fl., nateriniiliury)—V/e think the haulm is scoiched. Probably jour laud is dry, and the seed tubers of Duke of York may have been planted early. We have seen the same thing in a few early varieties, and we think in the first place the damage was caused by frost, and then by hot sunshine scorching the injured growth. Diseased Tojiatoes (J. E. S.).— Your Tomatoes are not diseased, at least we think not. The fruit sent appears to be scorched ; this often happens after dull weather when the plants are near poor glass. Again many persons, to hasten ripening, cut the foliage loo severely ; the result ij " spotting." Ventilate more freely, give a little more freedom as regards growth, and the spotting will cease. Eelworms in Cdccmbers (IT. Wright).— We think the miscniel IS ill the sou used. The roots have bten eaten by eelworms, and you will have to secure soil from a distance. We have seen many cases where it has happened with what was thought good soil. Can you get Banstead soil? This would be quite clean. You must cleanse the house thoroughly, whiten walls tf beds and expose for a lime to kill the pest, using fresh thick lime. Vire- worm does much mischief, but we can only detect the first-named. Veqetables fob Exhibition {A. B. iliddlefex).— The best SIX vegetables for exuiultlon. as regards puiuts when ixhibiied, would be large green Marrow Peas of the Duke of Albany type ; medium-sized, close, hard white Cauli- fiower; kidney Potatoes; French Beans, young, straight, perfect pods ; Carrots without blemish, such as Model, Matchless, or Summer Favourite ; and Globe Beetroot, or good medium, quick-grown Snowball Turnip. Failing either of the last-named you could substitute nice Vegetable Marrows, very youug, of good shape, and not at all large. Here you have eight kinds to seiect from. You should always have a reserve dish in case of accident. MISCELLANEOUS. Destroying Ants (i'. J.)— Wherever practicable to use without Injuring pUnt roots, one < f the best destroyers of ants In a garden is boiling water. It you cannot safely do that, you might do worse than get some quite young chickens without a hen to run loose In the garden. A great incentive to ants in a garden is the presence of aphis or green-By. Perhaps you will find your best remedy in soaking half a pound of Quassia chips and 4oz. of Tobacco in two gillons of boiling water for tweniy-fuur hours, then adding four more gallons of water, straining the whole, then very gently spraying all plants overrun by the ants. That would make leafage obm xious to all Insects. If some Tobacco powder were dusted lightly also, insects would soon he destroyed. Kkhria (Bei;mji«r).— We are afraid that you will find theKorita rather an unwieldy plant for cultivation in a pot In the greenhouse. It does best where it has plenty of room to develop long shoots. If you piunelthard hack 80 as to try and make a bush of it, it will never do much good. Pruning the Karria consists in cutting away the old wood to encourage the young growths, which produce the best Bowers and more of them than the old growths. If you keep the plant in a pot the latter must be a fairly large one, so as to enable the plant to make good growth. You might place the plant out of doors in the summer (plunging the pot in the ground so as to prevent the soil about the roots getting dry so often) so as to ripen the growths thorouKhly ; upon this depends a successful floweiing. Names op Plants —Lady Anne Murray.— tubUTonm Adami. J. if.— 1, Abutilon Sawitzl ; 2, Croton angusti- folium ; 3. C. aneitumensis ; 4, C. C'ses sent are varieties of Scotch Rojes (E. spinosissima) ; No. 2 we believe to be Scotia, No. 3 single crimson, and No. 4 Gil B'as. E. C. T.— 1, Rosa alba; 2, Schnee«itchen ; 3, R;ine Marie Heiiriette; 4, Veronica rupestris ; 5, Mnie. E. K-sal ; 6, Mme. Caillat ; 7, Sdxifraga sjiicEef.ilia ; 8, .Symphytum citijinale varie- gatum. M a. D.—Tne S;:arlet Lychnis (L chalcertonica). P B— S.ipwurt (^aponaria calabric). m:ss D.— Rose Tea Rambler. R T.— 1, Ilea virglnica; 2, Veronica Traversil ; 3, cannot name wiih 'Ut flowers; 4, Kalmia latifolia ; 6, Berberis Dir*inii ; 6, Kenia j iponica flore- pleno (D^unle Jew's Mallow); 7, Pernettya mucronata ; 8, Osmanthus lllcifolius ; 9. Lvgi dlum scndens; 10, Rho- dodendron ferrugineum. E. H.— The R ce is Catherine Mermet, the Bramble RubUi Nutkanus. J, Q — A selected variety of R. carina (the Dig R ise), or probaoly a chance seedling. Skyn.—l, Fink Pandington ; 3, common China Rope ; 4, Grace Darling ; 6, Augustine Guinoisseaa ; 6, Prince C. de Rohan ; 7, La France ; 8, Harrison Weir ; 9, Electra ; 10, M. Desir ; 11, Isolepia gracilis ; 13, Sedum Sieboldii ; 16, Rhyncospermum jasminoides. Others not recognised. Supplement to THE GARDEN, July U, 1906. THE NATIONAL ROSE SOCIETY'S SHOW. HELD IN THE GARDENS OF THE ROYAL BOTANIC SOCIETY, REGENT'S PARK, THURSDAY, JULY 5, 1906. THE metropolitan show of the National Rose Society was held in the gardens of the Royal Botanic Society on Thursday last, the 5th inst. Never has the society held a show under more favourable auspices. With a membership that stands higher than ever before, favoured by glorious weather, and the most delightful locale in the metropolis for their show, the society was honoured with a visit to the exhibition by Her Majesty the Queen. Miss Willmott, Mr. C. E. Shea (president of the society), and other officials accompanied Her Majesty through the tents. The display of Roses was admirable, and the blooms were of good quality throughout most of the classes. Those shown in vases and stands made a far more attractive display than those shown in boxes, and their inclusion added con- siderably to the beauty of the show. The first prize in the great class for seventy-two blooms, distinct varieties, was won by Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Old Rose Gardens, Colchester, with a very fine collection of Roses. Two gold medals and a card of commendation were awarded to new Roses, which are described below. The Barham Cup, offered for the best twelve new Roses, was won by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Limited, Newtownards. The efforts of the officials to secure the comfort of visitors were most successful and were much appreciated. The refreshment arrangements were far more satisfactory than formerly, and the attempts to keep the tents cool by spraying with water certainly made them less trying for the visitors and Roses too. Never were thanks more worthily due to Mr. Mawley (the hon. secretary), Mr. Molyneux (the hon. treasurer), Mr. Hawes (the garden superintendent), and other officials for their hard work in con- nexion with this great Rose show. We understand that the takings at the gate exceeded those of last year's show. NURSERYMEN. Gbnbbal Section. The chief nureerymen's olasa was for seventy- two bloomg, diatinot varieties. The first prize (trophy and gold medal) was won by Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Old Rose Gardens, Colohester, with, needless to say, a magnificent lot of flowers, many of them being perfect, e.g , Dean Hole, Mrs. Mawley, Lady Aahtown, Golden Gate, Boadioea, Mme. G. Laizet, Mildred Grant, and Dr. Hall. Mrs. B. R. Cant in this stand won the silver medal as the best Tea Rose in the nursery- men's classes. The second prize was won by Messrs. D. Prior and Son, Colchester, who had grand blooms of Liberty, Horace Vernet, Mildred Grant, Maman Cochet, and Mrs. Grant. The bloom of Horace Vernet won the silver medal as the best Hybrid Perpetual in the nurserymen's classes. Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Brais- wick Nurseries, Colchester, were third ; among many good blooms in this exhibit were Victor Hugo, Ulster, Mildred Grant, Mrs. F. Cant, and Hofgartner Terks ; there were two more com- petitors in this class. For forty distinct varieties, three blooms of each, Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Old Rose Gardens, Colohester, were also first, with an exhibit that contained many splendid flowers. Mildred Grant, Dean Hole, Lady Ashtown, Mrs. Grant, Ulster, and Mrs. J. Laing were a few of the best. Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, New- townards, won the second prize, Gustavo Piganeau, Mildred Grant, Countess Annesley, and Mrs. Grant being especially good. The latter bloom won the silver medal as the best Hybrid Tea in the nurserymen's classes. Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. were third, their Mildred Grant being splendid. Forforty-eightblooms,diBtinctvarieties,MesBrs. Burrell and Co., Cambridge, were first ; Mildred Grant was especially fine in this exhibit, as also were Killarney and Mrs. John Laing. Messrs. G. and W. Buroh, Peterborough, won the second prize. La France, Marquise Litta, Mrs. John Laing, and Dean Hole being some of their beat blooms. Messrs. Cooling and Sons, Bath, were third. There were several other competitors. Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, won the first prize for twenty-four blooms, distinct, Frau Karl Drusohki, Ulster, and Maman Cochet being excellent examples. Mr John Mattock, New Headington, Oxford, was second, and Mr. William Taylor, Hampton, third. For twenty distinct varieties, three blooms of each, Messrs. Cooling and Sons were first with some splendid blooms of Bessie Brown, Ulrich Brunner, Dean Hole, and others. Messrs. G. and W. Buroh were second, and Mr. Charles Turner third. Teas and Noisettes, The first prize for twenty-four Tea Roses, distinct, was won by Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Colchester ; Mrs. Mawley, Grolden (Jate, Cleopatra, and White Maman Cochet were some of the best. Mr. George Prince, Longworth, Berks, was second ; he showed some splendid blooms of Souvenir de Pierre Notting, Comtesse de Nadaillao, and E. V. Hermanos. Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. were third. There were seven entries in the class for twelve Tea Roses, distinct, Messrs. J. Burrell and Co., Cambridge, being first, Mrs. Edward Mawley was a perfect bloom ; second, Mr. John Mattock ; third, Mr. George Mount, Canterbury. For fourteen distinct Tea Roses, three blooms of each in vases, Mr. George Prince, Longworth, was easily first, with a lovely lot of roses, e.g., Mme. Cusin, Souvenir de Pierre Notting, Mrs, Mawley, and Maman Cochet ; second, Messrs. D. Prior and Son, Colchester; third, Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. For twelve distinct varieties, seven blooms of each in vases, Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Newtownards, were first, such as Caroline Testout, Mrs. John Laing, Marquise Litta, and Countess Annesley being very fine ; Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. were second ; and Messrs. D. Prior and Son, third. For nine distinct varieties of Teas, seven blooms of each in vases, Mr. George Prince, Longworth, was first, Mar^chal Niel, Bridesmaid, and others being good ; second, Messrs. D. Prior and Son ; Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. were third. Decorative Roses. For thirty-six distinct varieties Mr. John Mattock, New Headington, won the first prize with a very handsome exhibit, consisting of large bunches of such Roses as Liberty, Mme. Ravary, Souvenir de Catharine Guillot, and Queen Alexandra. Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. were second with similar varieties, Mme. Ravary being very fine. Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, were third. In the class for eighteen distinct varieties Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, was the only exhibitor ; he was awarded first prize for splended bunches of Mme. Ravary, Zepherin Drouhin, and others. For eighteen distinct varieties of summer flowering Roses Messrs. Cooling and Sons were first, Una, Andersoni, and Rubin being beau- tiful. Mr. Charles Turner, Slough, was second with Lady Curzon, Crimson Damask, and others ; third, Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt. For eleven distinct varieties, three sprays of each, Mr. John Mattock, New Headington, won the first prize, the lovely apricot- coloured blooms of Mme. Ravary being most noticeable. Mr. George Mount, Canterbury, was second with good Killarney, Liberty, and others. For six distinct varieties, arranged lightly in a Bamboo stand, Mr. John Mattock was also first. Bellefleur, a rich crimson single, was very strik- ing ; second, Mr. George Prince ; third, Messrs. J. Jefferies, Cirencester. Gboups of Roses. The first prize for a representative group of Roses arranged on the floor was awarded to Messrs. Paul and Sons, Cheshunt, who exhibited a most attractive display. Such as Wallflower, Purple East, Rubin, and Gardenia were repre- sented by fine masses of flower. Gottfried Keller, an Austrian Briar, was a charming variety included. Mr. Charles Turner won the second prize in this class. For a representative group of cut Roses on staging, Mr. George Mount, Canterbury, was first with a magnificent lot of blooms, attractively arranged ; Mrs. Grant, Frau Karl Druschki, Mildred Grant, Liberty, and others were finely shown. Second, Messrs. Spooner and Sons, Hounslow; third, Messrs. Jackman and Sons, Woking. Supplement to THE GARDEN, July Ik. 1006. AMATEURS' CLASSES. Large numbera of Rosea were staged in these classes, and for a season presenting bo many difficulties the competition was very surprising ; but, as expected, the general quality was not up to the high standard that usually distinguishes the National Rose Society's metropolitan shows. Etceplionally fine blooms were noted in many Hoands, and a few varieties like Frau Karl D/uschki, Mildred Grant, and Mrs. E. Miwley were prominent in the miijority of the boxes. Bat in several of the winning stands there was a conspicuous deficiency of evenness, and one first prize collection was observed within twenty minutes of the judging where a corner bloom had opened to little more than a single flower. Among the numerous exhibits which failed to secure a priza, similar defects in ragged or dis- coloured petals were frequent, and it was only in oneortwocaees thatthe j jdgea experienced serious difficulty in determining the winnera of the leading prizM. Aa regards brightness, purity of colour and freshness, the general quality was excellent, and the proportion of light and dark varieties being evenly balanced imparted a delightful appearance to the tablea. The exhibits in fifty-one classes of the amateur division occupied two spacious marquees, and the arrangement was both convenient and tffjctive. Ample apace waa allowed between the tablea for the crowds of visitors, and a good general view of each tent could also be obtained Irom the upper end. Prompt staging and expeditious judging also distinguished the admirable management for which the society ia celebrated. The Champion Class. Six competitora entered for the Champion Trophy offered for thirty-six blooms of distinct varieties, and, after careful consideration, this coveted prize was awarded to E B. Lindsell, E?q , Hitchin, for a charming exhibit of bright, fresh, comparatively solid blooms, not of unusual size, but posaesaing the merit of excellent colour and capital arrangement. In the latter respect the winning stand was one of the best in the section. Conspicuous blooms were Helen Keller, Frangoia Michelon, Frau Karl Druschki, Prince Arthur, Mildred Grant, Dean Hole, Dachesa of Portland, Hjrace Vernet, Ulster (uncommonly fine), and Fisher Holmes. The second place waa taken by F. Dannison, E3q., Roaecroft, Kenilworth, who had some fine examples of Ulrich Brunner, Mrs. E. Mawley, Countess of Derby, Mrs. J. Laing, and Mildred Grant, but the quality was not maintained throughout the stands. Conway Jones, Esq., Huccleoote, Gloucester, was third with somewhat small but bright blooms. The Ben Cant Memorial Prize, for twenty-four blooms, distinct varieties, attracted eight exhi- bitors, and here again Mr. E B. Lindsell was successful in winning the first place. The same distinguished his blooms, brightness and even quality prevailing throughout. Notable blooms were Mildred Grant, Horace Vernet, Robert Scott, and Helen Keller. The second prize waa well won by the Rev. J. H. Pemberton, Havering-atte-Bower, Essex, with solid and admirable blooms of moderate size ; and Alfred Tate, Esq., Leatherhead, was third for ex- ceptionally bright examples, but of uneven quality. With twelve distinct varieties, three blooms of each, the competition was confined to the three prizewinners, Mr. E. B. Lindeell gaining first place, two especially fine blooms being Horace Vernet and Mildred Grant ; Conway .Jones, Esq., followed closely for the second prize, and R. F. Hobba, Esq., Woroeater, was a good third. The class for nine blooms of any Rose except Teas or Noisettes to be shown in Bamboo stands formed a rather pleasing feature as a break from the monotony of the boxes. A. W. Dunlop, Esq. , Reading, was first with Frau Karl Druschki of considerable size and with excellent foliage; Conway Jjnes, E q., waa second, and R. E West, E q., Reigate, third. Opek to Growbks or less than 2,000 Plants The Christy Challenge Cup was o£fjred for twenty-four blooms, distinct varieties, and brought an excellent competition, no leaa than ten coUec- tiona being staged, aeveral of which were very close in merit. Premier honours were accorded to G. A. Hammond, E^q., Burgess Hill, Sussex, for praiseworthy specimens of the chief varieties, the moat prominent being Alice Lindsell, Frau Karl Druschki, aad Medea. The second prize went to E. M. Evorsfield, Esq , Horsham, for very bright blooms of medium siz), and M. Whittle, Esq., Belgrave, Leicester, was a good third, one of his beat blooms being Helen Keller. Nine atanda of eight varieties (treble?) were shown, and E. J. Holland, E q , Satton, Surrey, won the first prize with large handsome examples of Fran5ois Michelon, Mildred Grant, Helen Keller, Frau Kirl Druschki, and Mrs. J, Laing among others. The Rev. F. Page- Roberts, Sirathfieldsaye Rectory, Mortimer. Bucks, was placed second, and a capital bloom of Tom Wood was included in this stand. Mra. B Fortescue, Maidenhead, Bucka (gardener, Mr. C. Page) followed for the third prize, and a remark- able bloom of Frau Karl Druschki waa very conspicuous. The class for seven blooms of any Rose (Teas and Noisettes excluded), shown in vasea SJ inches high and 2J inches across the top, was well filled, eight tasteful contributions attracting attention. Mr. E J. Holland led with beautiful examples of Mildred Grant, Messrs. Eversfield and G. A. Himmond following with the all- prevalent Frau Kirl Druschki almost equally fine. Open to Growers or less than 1,000 Plants. The section of the schedule confined to growera of leas than 1,000 plants, had two clasaea, and both of these were extremely well filled, the exhibits occupying considerable table space. No less than seventeen stands of twelve blooms were shown, and the flowers were of much merit throughout. H. W. Richards, E5q., Ryde, Isle of Wight, was worthily adjudged the first award for handsome blooms, among which were exceptional examples of Mra. Sharman Crawford, Mildred Grant, and Frangois Michelon. A close second in the class was William Onslow Times, Eiq., Hitchin, and G. Moulea, Esq. of the same town waa third. The other class in this division was for five blooms, arranged in a vase, and among the eleven com- petitors William Oaalow Times, Esq., secured first honours for Frau Karl Druschki. Mr. G. Monies followed with Mildred Grant, and Mr. C. C. Williamson, Canterbury, waa third for the same variety as the firat, almost equally as good. The aeotion for growers of less than 500 planta waa a strong one. With nine blooms there were twelve exhibitora, Dr. T. E. Pallett, Earl'a Colne, Essex, winning the leading prize, and with six blooms the corresponding position was gained by Walter Chapman, Esq., Warminster. In both cases the blooms were fresh, even, and creditable. The President'a Silver Cup, ofi'ered aa the first prize in the class for twelve blooms, distinct varieties (open only to growera of less than 1,000 plants), induced twenty-four competitors to enter the liata, and the reault waa a very fine class of great interest. The cup was won by Lady Campbell, who had handsome blooms of even quality throughout her exhibit, but a few were of oonapicuoua merit, auch as Mrs. E Mawley, Boadicea, Prince Arthur, Medea, Duke of Edin- burgh, Maman Cichet, La France, and the inevitable " Frau." Dr. C. Laroplough, Alver- Btoke, Gosport, followed for the second prize with blooms of much merit only a few points behind the firat, Beaaie Brown and Mildred Grant attracting considerable attention as grand examples of these varieties. Courtenay Page, Esq , Eufield, N., secured the third prize, and his box contained the best bloom of A. K. Wil- liams we observed in the show. An extra prize was awarded to W. Kingston, Esq., Bedford, for a very bright collection, in which Prince Arthur and Mildred Grant were admirably repreaented. The prizes offered in the same section for four distinct varieties, three blooma of each, attracted eleven exhibitors, Mr. C. C. Williamson leading with capital, fresh, solid blooms of Carolioe Testout, Mrs. Wagram, Bassie Brown, and Frau Karl Druschki ; W. Lenn West, Eiq., Sutton, Surrey, secured the second award, and showed the old favourite Charles Lefebvre in excellent style, as well as Mra. J. Laing and Helen K«ller ; Mr. W. Chapman took the third place also with creditable blooms. E.xTRA Classes. Several extra classes were provided for amateurs, one for six blooms of Hybrid Teas bringing fifteen entries ; Mr. H. W. Richards waa the premier exhibitor with superb examples of Mildred Grant, Mrs. W. J. Grant, Bessie Brown, and La France. There was also a class for twenty-four varieties, open to amateurs who had never won a first prize in the same. Mrs. Croft Murray, Ryde (gardener, Mr. G. Kent), took the lead among eight competitors, showing excellent flowers, and the two other prizes were secured by Mr. M. Whittle and Mr. C. C. Williamaon in the order named. The Harkness Silver Cup was offered (in a class open to all amateurs) for twelve blooms, distinct varieties, and of the ten entries that from Mr. E. J. Holland was worthily adjudged to be first, though he was closely followed by Mr. A. Tate and Mr. R. F. Hobbs. The class for nine blooms each of Hybrid Teas, and Teas and Noisettes, was also a good one, nine collections being staged. Mr. 0. G. Orpen, Colchester, Mr. W. Leggett, Maldon Road, Colchester, and Mr. J. Wakeley, Rainham, won the prizes in the order of their namea, and all exhibited fresh even blooms. Amateurs who had never won a prize at a National R*se Show competed with six blooms of distinct varietiea, and out of the thirty-six who entered Mr. H. W. R chards waa aelected for firat honours ; Lady Campbell taking the second place; and Mr. C. G. Baron, Hitchin, waa third, all their exhibits auguring well for future efforts. Twenty amateurs who had never won a first prize at a National Society's ehow competed with six blooma in four varietiea. Mr. F. J. Nightingale, Sutton, Mr. F. H. Cooke, Colchester, and Dr. A. H. Williams, Harrow, secured the honours in that order. A class was also provided for amateurs who had joined the society since the last metropolitan show, and out of the seventeen who competed Mr. E. Taylor, Swalwell, Durham, the Rev. H. G. Arkwright, Bracknell, and Mr. F. Borland were successful. Teas and Noisettes. The competition in the classes devoted to these popular Roses was very keen, and a large table space was occupied with the stands. A large proportion of the blooms showed seasonal and weather effects, but the number of excellent blooms was considerable. The trophy class for eighteen blooms, distinct varietiea, only brought five exhibitors, A. Hill Gray, Esq., Newbridge, Bath, winning first honours for superb blooms, in which Mrs. E. Mawley was noticeable. Mr. Conway Jones and the Rev. F. R. Burnside, Stambridge Rectory, Essex, were second and third respectively. The Prince Memorial prize for twelve blooms was also won by Mr. Hill Gray, and again Mrs. E. Mawley was conspicuous in his stand, together with Medea, Catherine Mermet, and Bridesmaid. Mr. A. Tate and Mr. E. M. Eversfield were second and third with fresh and clean blooms. A third success was gained by Mr. Hill Gray with eight varieties, three blooms of each. The Bride, Mrs. E. Mawley, and Maman Cochet with ita I white form being the beat in hia stand. Mr, Supplement to THE GARDEN, Juhj Ik, 1906. Orpen was second for smaller blooms, but Lady Boberts was remarkably fine ; the Rev. F. B. Burnslde was placed third. Seven blooms arranged In a vase were required in another class, and there Mr. Orpen was successful, the second and third places being taken by the Bev. P. R. Bornside and Mr. Hill Gray. Among the growers of less than 500 plants, Mr. H. W. Richards was first for twelve blooms, followed by Mr. A. C. Turner and Mr. M. Whittle. For growers of less than 200 plants there was a class for nine blooms, in which Mr. J. Moules led with small but neat examples, and Dr. Pallett, with Mr. G. H. Baxter, Brentwood, were second and third respectively. The best six blooms in the same section were from Mr. William Onslow Times, followed by Mr. H. Robins, Ingatestone, Essex. Several other classes were also provided for small growers, and the exhibits were numerous, the blooms mostly small, but fresh and neat. The leading prizes were won by Mr. H. Robins, Mr. J. C. Trueman, Mr. J. Wakeley, and Mr. A. C. Turner. Decorative Displays. An important and highly interesting part of the exhibition was formed by the classes in this section of the schedule, the vases, tables, baskets, bowls, and groups or collections constituting the greatest attraction to many of the visitors. Much commendable taste was displayed through- out the principal exhibits, but they were only seen at their best for a brief period, as some of the blooms suffered considerably, and spoilt the appearance of some of the best. In the vase classes the leading prizewinners were Mr. E. M. Eversfield, Mr. Hill Gray, the Bev. J. H. Pemberton, Mr. E. B. Smith, and Miss B. H. Langton, Hendon. Eleven tables were shown, and some of these were decorated in an exceedingly tasteful manner, the general fancy leaning to low vases, all single Roses, with their ownfoliage or spraysof small-leaved varieties, with Asparagus. Mrs. Bridgewater, Maiden, Surrey, won first honours, the leading feature in her table being the single or semi-double blush Rose Lady S. Wilson with sprays of foliage, very delicate and pretty. Miss J. B. Langton, Hendon, secured the second place, and had relied upon the single Macrantha Rose blooms, with long sprays of Asparagus. This charming table was greatly admired. Mrs. 0. G. Orpen was third, Blush Rambler Roses and Adiantum fronds being used to good purpose ; Miss E. L, Soott, Eastbourne, taking the fourth place for a pretty, but rather heavier arrangement, in which Rose Caroline Testout was notable. Bowls of Rose blooms were shown by Mrp. 0. G. Orpen, Miss J. B. Langton, and Mrs. F. H. Cooke, Colchester, who were the prizewinners in that order. In the first. Lady Sarah Wilson and the single Crimson Damask were very hand- some ; in the second, Macrantha was delightfully represented ; and in the third, single yellow Roses were the feature. Baskets of Roses were admirably represented by a dozen competitors. Mrs. O. G. Orpen was placed first with a graceful arrangement, in which Bessie Brown and Clara Watson were prominent. Mrs. F. H. Cooke followed with red and white Roses, charmingly contrasted ; and Mrs. George Lewis, Watford, had a graceful combination of red, white, and blush Roses for the third prize. The collections of decorative Roses were ex- tremely bright and beautiful in the several classes, the spaces allowed being 8 feet, 6 feet, and 3 feet long, by a width of 3 feet in each case. With eighteen varieties in the largest space Mr. A. Tate won chief honours, and four of the most telling varieties were Liberty (in brilliant colour), W. A. Richardson, Lady Battersea, and Kil- larney. The Rev. J. H. Pemberton was second with a choice, varied, and bright collection. Lady Curzon, Macrantha, Moschata nivea, and The Garland taking a leading place in the group. For twelve varieties Miss B. H. Langton was first, her best flowers being Marquis of Salisbury, Corallina, Killarney, Camoens, and Blush Rambler. In the class for six varieties Mr. A. C. Turner took first place, Mr. E. Mawley second, and Mrs. C. B. Smith third, all showing beautiful collections. Several other classes in this section were also allotted to the decorative Roses, and in every case the result was satisfactory, most of the pre- viously named winners taking prizes. The value of this part of the exhibition cannot be over- estimated, and it will probably increase in importance, for the beauty of Roses for decorative purposes is becoming more widely appreciated every year. OPEN CLASSES. Genebal Section. For twelve blooms of Hybrid Teas, distinct, Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons won the first prize, Mildred Grant and J. B. Clark being among the best. Messrs. D. Prior and Son were second, and Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons third. Eight others competed. For eighteen blooms of any white or yellow Rose arranged in a Bimboo stand first prize was won by Messrs. S. Bide and Sons, Woking, with excellent flowers of Kaiserin Augusta Victoria ; second, Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. ; third, Messrs. George Bunyard and Co., Maidstone, both showing Frau Karl Druschki. A number of others competed in this class. For eighteen blooms of any Bose other than white or yellow, to be shown in a Bamboo stand, Messrs. R. Harkness and Co., Hitchin, were first with a magnificent lot of Mrs. John Laing ; second, Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons with Mildred Grant ; third, Messrs. Frank Cant and Co. with Ulrich Brunner. In the class for nine blooms of any new Rose, Messrs. B. R, Cant and Sons, Old Rose Gardens, Colchester, were first, and Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Braiswick Nurseries, Colchester, second, both showing the variety Dsan Hole. Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons were also first in the class for twelve blooms (distinct) of new Roses, among those shown were Dean Hole, J. B. Clark, and Lady Ashtown, all fine flowers J Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, New- tDwnardp, were second. New Seedling Roses. A gold medal, or card of commendation, according to the merit of the variety, was ofiered for not less than six trusses of any new seedling Rose or distinct sport. Eich of the following, shown by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, Limited, Newtownards, received a gold medal : Mrs. Peter Blair (Hybrid Tea) — A garden Rose with medium-sized blooms of deep yellow colouring in the centre, fading to a paler yellow towards the margin. The good yellow colour of this variety will doubtless ensure its popularity as a Rose for the garden. William Shean (Hybrid Tea). — A large flower whose colour is of varying shades of pink, from reddish pink in the centre to palest pink in the outer petals. When opening the form is good. The fully expanded bloom is almost intermediate in form between La France and Caroline Testout. As shown this variety did not appear worthy of a gold medal. The blooms had an untidy appear- ance, and the colour was not very pleasing. A card of commendation was awarded to : Queen of Spain. — A new Hybrid Tea Rose, a good deal similar to Bessie Brown, but of deeper colouring. The form of this flower left nothing to be desired, and it is probable that if the colour was more distinct a gold medal would have been awarded. Shown by Messrs. Bide and Sons, Alma Nurseries, Woking. The Birham Cup, offered for twelve vases of new Seedling Roses or distinct sports (raised in the British Isles and shown by the raiser), was won by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sonp, Limited, New- townards. Tivo of the best blooms among these, and. In fact, the only two which have so far .been named, wereGrace Molyneux, a flower of excellent form, pale salmon colour in the centre, the outer petals almost white, and Queen Alexandra, a Tea Rose of perfect form, with primrose yellow centre, this colour becoming paler towards the margin ; the foliage was an unusually dark green. What a pity some other name was not given to this Rose, in view of the fact that there is already a Rose called Q.aeen Alexandra. This is a Rambler, it is true, but a Rose, nevertheless ; duplicating names when there is not the slightest need is to be regretted. Decorative Classes. For an arch decorated with long sprays of not more than two varieties of climbing Roses, Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, won first prize, using the varieties Wallflower and Leuohtstern, Messrs. Jeffaries and Son, Cirencester, were second, using Wallflower ; third, Mr. John Mattock. For twelve distinct varieties of single-flowered Roses, Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Colchester, were first ; Irish Glory, Jersey Beauty, Crimson Damask, and sinica Anemone were very beauti- ful. Second, Messrs. G. Cooling and Sons, Bath ; third, Messr". Paul and Son, Cheshunt. Mrs. 0. G. Orpen won the first prize for a set of three sprays suitable for ladies' wear. Among the non-competitive exhibits, the Del- phiniums from Messrs. Barr and Sons, King Street, Covent Garden ; and the Violas and Vic- lettas from Mr. H. Crane, Woodview Terrace, Archway Road, Highgate, were very beautiful. Silver Medal Blooms. Nurgerymen's Classes, Best Tea. — Mrs. B R. Cant, from Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons, Old Rose Gardens, Colchester. Best Hybrid Perpetual. — Horace Vernet, shown by Messrs. D. Prior and Son, Colchester. Best Hybrid Tea. — Mrs. W. J. Grant, from Massis. A'ex. Dickson and Soni, Limited, Ntw- lownards. Amateurs' Classes, Best Tea.— White Maman Cochet, from A. Hill Gray, E:q. Bist Hybrid Perpetual. — Ulster, shown by E. B Lindsell, Esq. Best Hybrid Tea. — Bessie Brown, from F. Dennison, E q. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. JULY. HOW TO BUD ROSES. A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A TUrd Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prfze of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best essays on " Hoiu to Bud Roses." Practical information clearly stated is desired. The essay should be accompanied by a few sketches to show how the work is performed. The remarks (limited to 1,500 words) must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked " Competition," addressed to "The Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than July 31. Both amateur and professional gar- deners may compete ; it is hoped, however, that those who contribute regularly to the pages of The Garden will not do so. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS. , and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors, Supplement to THE GARDEN, July U, 1906. NATIONAL SWEET PEA SOCIETY'S SHOW. HELD AT THE HORTICULTURAL HALL, VINCENT SQUARE, S.W., JULY 5, 1906. Ik proof were needed that the Sweet Pea still has a great hold over the British public, one had only to visit the sixth annual show of the National Sweet Pea Society at the hall of the Royal Horticultural Society, Vincent Square, S.W., on Thursday, the 6th inst., to be convinced of this fact. The show was a very good one, though it Is to be regretted that it clashed with that of the National Rose Society at the Royal Botanic Gardens. Generally speaking, the display was of a high order of merit. Good flowers, well coloured, and these in most instances charmingly set up, made a display with which the executive may be well pleased. Table decorations were superb, and the awards gave general satisfaction. The fragrance of this sweet-scented annual filled the hall. Competition in the majority of classes was exceed- ingly keen, the margin dividing the different prizewinners being very narrow. The leading class was for fifteen bunches of Sweet Peas, selected from certain specified sorts and known as the audit class. There were ten exhibits of a high order. First prize was won by Mr. Thomas Jones, Bryn Penylan, Ruabon, North Wales, with a grand lot in typical con- dition. Jeannle Gordon, Hon. Mrs. Kenyon, Miss E Wlllmott, Dorothy Ecktord, Mr. W. Wright, Oracle Greenwood, and Prince of Wales were among his best sorts. Second prize fell to Mr. Thomas Stevenson, gar- dener to Mr. E. Mocatta, Woburn Place, Addleston, with a grand lot of flowers, running the leading exhibit very closely. Third prize was awarded to Miss Bjosey, Blckley, Kent ; and fourth prize to Mr. Hugh Aldersey, Aldersey, near Chester. The classification class, consisting of nineteen varieties, each variety of a given colour, had but four exhibitors. The leader was found in Mr. Charles W. Breadmore, 120, High Street, Winchester. The flowers were all fresh and clean and of high quality. Specially good were Janet Scott, Miss Willmott, Duke of Westminster, King Edward VII., Lord Rosebery, and Bolton's Pink. Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, were second ; Messrs. Saltmarsb and Son, Chelmsford, third ; and Messrs. E. W. King and Co., Coggeshall, E3Bex, fourth. The class for thirty-six bunches of Sweet Peas, distinct, was a battle of the giants. Of the four competitors, Mr. Charles W. Breadmore was placed in the much-coveted premier position. Gladys Uowin, Janet Scott, America, Helen Lewis, Cecil Crier, Triumph, Queen Alexandra (glorious colour), and Evelyn Byatt (very striking) were conspicuous. A nice lot secured second prize for Mr. F. Ackland, gardener to Mr. A. G. Hayman, Hapsford House, Frome. A beautiful series well won third prize for Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, and fourth prize was awarded to the Messrs. Saltmarsb and Son. The five competitors in the class for twenty-four bunches, distinct, made a very attractive display. Mr. Breadmore was again invincible, securing first prize with a superb lot of large fiowers of beautiful colour. Lady Cooper, America, George Hubert, Janet Scott, Evelyn Byatt, Black Knight, and Jessie Cuthbertson were all very good Indeed. Messrs. Isaac House and Son, Westbury-on- Trym, made a splendid show for second prize, Rosie Sydenham, Eric Hinton, and Mrs. Hardcastle Sykes being specially fine. Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, had a fine lot for third prize, followed for fourth by Messrs. Saltmarsb and Son, with a very beautiful series. The class for twelve bunches Is generally considered the pi^ce de rt'sistance. In this instance there were eight competitors, Mr. Breadmore again leading the van with superb specimens, all of good colour and splendlly ar- ranged ; Messrs. Saltmarsb and Sons were placed second, with a good lot ; Messrs. I. House and Son third ; and Mr. Robert E. Williams, Selby House, Chelmsford, fourth. The class for twenty-four buuches, from which the trade were excluded, was a well-fought contest. A good first was found in Mr. Thomas Jones, who had a beautiful series of bunches of a high order of merit, John Ingham, King Edward VII., Mrs. K. Smith, Bolton's Pink, Lottie Eckford, and Dorothy Eckford were all specially good ; second prize fell to the lot of Mr. S. Hibbens, The Lodge, Aflhford, for a very bright and fresh lot of large blooms ; Mr. Aubrey F. Wootten, Croft House, College Road, Epsom, was third ; and Mr. J. Stevenson, gardener to the Duke of Hamilton, Wimborne, fourth. Four entries were forthcoming in the class for eighteen bunches, distinct, Mr. T. Vickers, gardener to Mr. W. H. Rawnsley, Well Vale, Alford, Lines, being first with a fine fresh lot of bunches of splendid quality. Janet Scott, Jeannle Gordon, and Countess Spencer were prominent. Second prize was well won by Mr. G. D. Faber, C.B., MP. (gardener, Mr. James Dymock), running the first prize lot exceedingly close. Third prize was won with a very fresh lot of good blooms by Miss Dundas, Charles Hill, Farnhani, Surrey. There were sixteen competitors (and many others had fallen out) in the class for twelve bunches, distinct. Mr. Thomas Jones again proved that he was Invincible as an amateur grower. Very fine were Queen Alexandra, Henry Eckford, Mrs. H. Sykes, Countess Spencer, Helen Lewis, and Mrs. R. F. Felbon. A good second was found in Mr. Thomas Stevenson, who had large fresh blooms of good quality. A bright 3eries of bunches secured third prize for Mr. G. D. Faber. A splendid fourth was found in Mr. F.J. Clark, gardener to Mr. Mark Hill, Winston Hall, Leicester. The first prize in this class won the Henry Eckford Memorial Challenge Cup, value 60 guineas, and the gold medal of the society. There were twenty-nine exhibits set up in the class for nine bunches, distinct, and there were many absentees. A grand lot won first prize for Mr. H. H. Lees, Warbling- ton Cottage, Havant. This young grower excelled, as he deserved to do. King Edward VII., George Herbert, Gladys Unwln, Helen Pierce, Lovely, and Helen Lewis were In fine form. Mr. Thomas Jones had his colours lowered In securing second prize. Third prize was awarded to Mr. S. Hibbens ; and fourth to Mr. L. H. Hatting, The Ness, Hornchurch, with a very fresh lot. The first prize In this class won the silver cup, value 5 guineas, offered by Messrs. W. W. Johnson and Son, Limited, Boston, Lincolnshire. There were twenty-four entries in the class for six bunches, distinct, the first prize being won by Dr. Lamp- lough, Kirkstall, Alverstoke, Hants, with a charming lot of grand bunches, closely followed by Mr. H. H. Lees for second place, also with a grand display. For six bunches of Evelyn Byatt, Messrs. House and Son were first; second, Mr. John Jones, Wem, both showing well. For six bunches of Gladys TJnwIn, the same exhibitors were first and second respectively with fine blooms. For five bunches of Helen Pierce, Mr. B. F. Usher, gar- dener to Mr. C. Wild, New Eltham, was first with a grand lot ; second, Messrs. House and Son ; third, Mr. Bread- more ; fourth, Mr. F. J. Clark. The first prize for five bunches of Phenomenal Sweet Pea was awarded to Messrs. I. House and Son, who was the only competitor. This was a fine exhibit however. Four exhibits of Countess Spencer Sweet Pea made a charming display. A grand lot secured first prize for Mr. John Jones, Wem. The prize for five bunches of Helen Lewis Sweet Pea was well won by Messrs. House and Son. There were two other competitors. The same firm won the prize for five bunches of John Ingham in fine form and condition. Twenty separate vases of one bunch of white entered a class for this purpose, Mr. H. P Cottam, London Road, Mltcham, being first with a superb lot of Dorothy Eckford. Mr. T. Proctor won the first prize for a bunch of Blush Sweet Peas, showing Duchess of Sutherland. With a superb lot of King Edward VII. Mr. M. F. Kitchens, Trevarrlck, St. Austell, Cornwall, won the first prize for a bunch of crimson Sweet Peas. With Cocclnea Mr. Httchens was again first in the class for one bunch of cerise Sweet Peas. Mr. M. Y. Green, Eynsford, with Lord Rosebery, well won first prize for one bunch of rose and carmine Sweet Peas. Mr. Usher was first In the class for one bunch of pink Sweet Peas. For one bunch of so-called orange Sweet Peas Mr. Breadmore was first with fine examples of Miss Wllmott. Of so-called yellow and buff, one vase, Mr. Frank Brewer, Sheffield House, Richmond, was a good first with Hon. Mrs. Kenyon. Lavender shades In one bunch. Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, were first with fine examples of Lady Grisel Hamilton. Blue, one bunch, secured leading honours for Mr. Bread- more with Romolo Plazzani. One bunch of mauve Sweet Peas was well contested, a superb bunch of Mrs. Walter Wright securing first prize for Dr. Lamplough. For one bunch of violet and purple Sweet Peas, a fine lot of Duke of Westminster placed Mr. Breadmore first. With a beautiful bunch of Black Knight Mr. J. Crabbe. Addlestone, Surrey, secured first prize in the class for Sweet Peas of a maroon or bronze shade. A bunch of George Gordon won first prize in the magenta class for Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, and one bunch of Lottie Eckford in the Plcotee class found Mr. F. Ackland leading. For one bunch red striped Mr. Usher was placed first with a fine lot of America. Princess of Wales in the class for one bunch of blue striped and fiaked secured premier honours for Mr. Ackland. For one bunch bicolor Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, won first prize with a fine vase of Triumph In splendid colour. With a superb bunch of Agnes Johnson Mr. Breadmore won first prize in the class for fancies. Decorative Exhibits. Fourteen entries in the class for table decoration (trade excluded) made a very beautiful display. A combination of Apple blossom tinted flowers and those of a rich cream colour made a simple and beautiful display, winning first prize for Mrs. Gerette, Little Gaddeeden, Berkhamstead. Second prize was won by Mrs. W. Marple, Summer House, Penkrldge, with a form of Countess Spencer tastefully arranged. Tiiird prize for a rather heavier arrangement of the same kind secured third prize for Miss Wheeler, Wheatley, Alton, Hants ; and fourth prize went to Mr. W. C. Pagram, The Gardens, The Whim, Weybrldge, Surrey, Ten tables in the open class brought out ten competitors. A unique display won first prize for Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover. A pleasing combination of Sweet Peas and foliage, all artistically disposed, made one of the prettiest we have seen in this connexion. It was the admiration of all. A contrast of bright crimson and cream Sweet Peas and appropriate foliage won first prize for Miss C. B. Cole, The Vineyard, Feltham. The foliage was well disposed. Mrs. Gerette was third with an orange- tinted Sweet Pea, and Mrs. Marple third. Miss C. B. Cole had the best epergne with a light and airy arrangement , Messrs. Clark, Limited, were second ; and Mrs. H. L. Sell, Kempton Villas, Luton, third. A good contest in the class for a bowl of mixed colours of Sweet Peas found Miss Cole again in the leading position, Messrs. E. W. King and Co. being second, and Mrs. Sell third, with a too crowded arrangement. Miss Cole was again to the fore with a vase of Sweet Peas, followed for second position by Messrs. Wheeler, Alton, Hants, and Mr. Ackland third. Trade Displays. The trade displays were very fine Indeed. The flowers were of a high standard of excellence, and artistically disposed in most instances. A gold medal was awarded to Mr. Charles W. Breadmore, Winchester, for a superb display of new and choice sorts. Audrey Crier, a beautiful pink Spencer, was In this group, winning the silver medal for the best novelty of the year, also a first-class certlflcate. Another gold medal was won by Mr. W. J. Unwin, HIston, Cambridge, with a beautiful display. In which he used the Bamboo stands effectively. Fine flowers of good colour and splendid character well merited the award. Mr. Henry Eckford, Wem, Salop, also won a gold medal. The beautiful Henry Eckford, Marchioness of Bute, Lady Bell, and Queen of Spain were a few of the lovely things Id this charming group. A large gold medal was awarded to Mr. Robert Bolton, Warton, Carnforth, In which a group of Sweet Peas were arranged in exquisite fashion. The new Queen of Norway, in the way of Mrs. Walter Wright, was a variety In this stand that was highly commended. Messrs. Dobble and Co., Rothesay, N.B., had a beautiful group of well-developed, high-coloured flowers. All the newer sorts were seen in superb condition. Gold Medal. Messrs. Bakers, Codsall, Staffs, set up an attractive exhibit of Sweet Peas, for which a gold medal was awarded. Messrs. H. Cannell and Sons, Swanley, had a bright and beautiful lot of flowers rather formally arranged. In this handsome exhibit were seen fifty-six new and choice varieties all in good condition. Gold medal. Miss H. Hennes, Holdfast Hall, Upton-on-Severn, had a pretty group of well-grown Sweet Peas, for which she received a silver-gilt medal. Messrs. James Carter and Co., High Holborn, had also a group of highly-coloured Sweet Peas in fine form, for which they received a silver-gilt medal. Messrs. G. Stark and Son, Great Byburgh, Norfolk, set up attractively a nice group of Sweet Peas In pleasing variety. All the better kinds were in evidence. Messrs. G. and A. Clark, Limited, Dover, set up In a pleasing manner the newer as well as the better of the older varieties. Messrs. E. W. King and Co., Coggeshall, Essex, set up a tall group, rather too tall, of the standard sorts as well as novelties, for which they received a silver medal. Mr. Robert Sydenham, Birmingham, displayed in " rustic " table decorative vases the better Sweet Peas In pleasing variety. This was quite characteristic of the Birmingham firm. Messrs. Gilbert and Son, Bourne, Lincolnshire, had a pretty table of choice Sweet Peas, for which they received a silver medal. From Messrs. R. H. Bath, Limited, Wisbech, came a display of an interesting kind. Well-coloured flowers, neatly disposed, made a good exhibit. Silver medal. Rustic table decorations from Mr. Williams, Ealing, were much admired, and were also freely used In the show. Bronze medal. Mr. George H. Sage. Richmond, had a display of his decorative art arrangements. New Varieties. Atidrey Crier (Mr. Charles Breadmore).— A very beau- tiful flower of a soft pink shade, the segments broad, and making up a bloom of great strength. It Is a good garden Sweet Pea, and is also useful for exhibition. Horace Wright (R. Eckford, Wem).— A fine Indigo with purplish indigo standard. Award of merit. Mande Qusst (H. Eckford, Wem).— A blush Spencer. Award of merit. Princess Maud of Wales (H. Eckford, Wem).— Salmon cerise, erect standards, good flower. Award of merit. Dora Cowper (Mr. Breadmore).— Greenish cream colour, has more colour than any other cream. Award of merit. Elsie Herbert (Mr. Breadmore).— Blush tinted Spencer. Award of merit. Elba Dyke (Mr. Breadpiore).— A white Spencer. Award ot merit, GARDEN. -y^=- No. 1809.— Vol. LXX. July 21, i9ii6. HOW TO GROW PANSIES. (VIOLAS.) The Fibst Prize Essay. THE true Tufted Pansy, or Viola, the result of crossing the garden Pansy (Viola tricolor) with Viola oornuta, should poasesB the habit of the latter, increasing by the spreading and rooting of the stems. Of late years the improvement in the size and shape of the flowers has been remarkable ; but, unfortunately, in striving after size and shape for exhibition purposes, the tufted habit, so important for bedding, has in many cases been almost or entirely lost. The varieties enumerated in florists' catalogues may be placed in three groups : (1) Those having fine flowers but a loose, straggling habit, of value for exhibition purposes or decora- tion only ; (2) plants having a dwarf, sturdy habit of growth, though not exactly tufted ; (3) those possessing the true tufted habit. These two last groups are alone of value fdr bedding, and the last-named is the best. The requirements of a good bedding Pansy may be said to be (o) a good close, sturdy habit of growth ; (6) purity of colour and regular form of flower, approaching as nearly as possible to circular ; («) the flowers borne well above the foliage ; (d) freedom and a long period of bloom- ing ; (e) ability to withstand strong sunshine and periods of drought. The first three of these are matters for the hybridiser, the last two may be produced, or at least greatly assisted, by good cultivation. Propagation. It is not advisable to rely upon seedling plants for bedding, for reliance cannot be placed upon the desired colour or habit being exactly pro- duced, and for bedding the most tasteful effects are obtained by planting in masses of one colour, either plain or in graduated shades, or by a combination of at most two closely allied colours. The plants are best raised from cuttings, which can be obtained in numbers with liiile difficulty. Where space permits, it is well to keep a supply of plants in a reserve border especially tor propagating, but with very little temporary saurifice of bluom they may be had direct from the plants in the beds. About the beginning of July, or even earlier, the plants should be dressed with a light compost, finely sifted, ot loam, well-decayed leaf-mould, and sharp sand. Tois should be well worked into the centre of the plants with the fingers, and, at the same time, some or all of the older floweting-atems shoula be removed. The soil should be kept moist, and in a very short time numerous young growths of a snort, sturdy character, suitable lor cuttings, will be produced. These, when from 2 inches to 3 inches long, may be cut off with a sharp knife just below a joint, or they may be Simply pressed off the stock with the thumb. It will be found that many of these will have already formed roots. Cuttings made towards the end of July will have a long period of growth before the autumn planting out, but good plants may also be secured from those taken a month or so later. The situation for the cutting bed should be in the open air, but shaded from the sun, and the cuttings should be inserted in soil well dug and mixed with old leaf-mould, well-decayed manure, and sharp sand. The cuttings should be lightly sprayed over, and the soil not allowed to become dry, but excess of moisture should be avoided. Planting. This is a very important matter, and upon it the freedom of flowering of the plants, their period of bloom, and ability to resist drought and strong sunshine, largely depend. The soil should be deeply dug, for, though the essential quality of the Tufted Pansy is its rooting from the stems, the roots go down very deep, and for long-continued blooming and resisting power it is essential that they should reach a cool, moist medium. Violas may be grown successfully in almost any soil, provided that this requirement be met ; but, of course, some are more naturally favourable than others. If the soil be stiff and heavy, it should be well broken up and mixed with old mortar rubbish, coarse leaf-mould, burnt clay, or other material, to keep it more open and allow the roots to work freely in it ; so, too, light hot soils should be rendered more retentive. Well-decayed manure should be freely incor- porated with the soil in any case, but. in light soils it is better to use cow manure for this purpose. The best time for planting is, in the South, about the beginning of October, but in the North spring planting may be successfully employed. All, however, have not the necessary space for growing reserve plants for providing cuttings, or even for cutting-beds ; in such cases division of the plants may be resorted to, and the more tufted the habit of the plant the greater the likelihood of success. The plants should be well mulched, as above advised for cuttings, and when the time for planting arrives they should be taken up, the old-flowered stems removed, be divided into small pieces, and, the ground having been well dug and enriched, the pieces may be re- planted, some light, fine soil, with a good admix- ture of sand being placed round the roots to assist them in making a fresh start. SlTtTATION. Almost any situation will do, provided it is not too heavily overshaded, if these requirements in the matter of depth of soil and root-run be supplied, but one sheltered from cutting winds is desirable, and they are also the better for slight protection from the full rays of the noon- day sun. Teeatment Doring the Growing Period. During the flowering period it is essential that all withered blooms be frequently removed ; if once seed-pods are allowed to form the plants will soon cease to bloom. Growth is greatly assisted by keeping the hoe constantly going among the plants, and a top-dressing in May of some light, rich material, such as well-decayed manure, leaf-mould, and sand, well sifted, is beneficial. The plants respond readily to liberal treat- ment in the matter of stimulants, weak liquid manure, artificial fertilisers (such as Clay's and others), soot water, &c., are all suitable, and a frequent change of diet is grateful to them. In all cases the rule should ba " weak and often " rather than strong doses at one time. In dry weather the plants benefit by frequent watering, though with a cool deep medium to root in it is surprising how long they will do well without this assistance. In the summer, after blooming for some months, the flowers begin to deteriorate, and the plants may become straggling and over- grown. They should then be cut over, and the old woody flowering stems removed. Fresh growths will rapidly spring up, and with the assistance of a light mulching and stimulants fresh crops of flowers will be produced little, if at all, inferior to the earlier blooms. Enemies. When wellgrown. Tufted Pansies seem fairly free from insect pests. They are occasionally visited by a fungoid disease which attacks the under sides of the leaves, and, seen through a strong glass, appears as round spots of an orange colour, surrounded by rings of paler yellow, looking singularly like minute lemon cheese cakes. There appears to be no remedy for it, and the plants should be destroyed. Red spider and green fly sometimes make their appearance. The former may be syringed with a mixture of lib. of sulphur boiled with 21b. of quicklime in four gallons of water ; and Abol and various other insecticides are useful in disposing of both these pests. Slugs are very fond of the flowers, and will do a great deal of mischief if left unchecked. Slug traps of various kinds may be employed. Saucers placed with their rims level with the surface of the ground, and filled with beer, are very attractive to them, and hundreds may be killed by this means. Varieties. He would be a bold man who would venture to select the best dozen from among the many hundreds of varieties offered. Locality and situa- tion will affect the choice, and personal tastes vary considerably. The following can, however, be recommended for freedom of flowering and habit of growth, though not in all cases tufted : Seagull, white ; Peace, white, upper petals tinted heliotrope ; Sylvia, cream ; Mrs. J. A. Cade, yellow ; Kingcup, deep yellow ; John Quarton, light lilac mauve ; Ophelia, deep mauve ; Blue- gown, blue tinted mauve; Archie Grant, deep indigo blue, blotched ; Councillor Waters, rich purple ; William Neil, pink. Two varieties not mentioned in the above list, but which are excellent for bedding purposes or for carpeting, are Violetta, the first of the so-called miniature Paneies, raised by the late Dr. Stuart, with small, very sweetly - scented flowers, cream coloured, and borne on long stems ; and the species Viola cornuta, both the blue and white varieties. (Major) W. St. P. Bunbdry. 7, Rothsay Oardens, Bedford. 26 THE GAKDEN. [July 21, 1906. COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1303. REHMANNIA ANGULATA PINK PERFECTION. REHMANNIA ANGULATA, the type from which Pink Perfection was selected two years ago, was a few years since introduced from ^ Central China, and when exhi- bited on April 21, 1903, the Royal Horticultural Society gave it an award of merit. It is a half-hardy herbaceous peren- nial, the rosy purple flowers being produced on the upper third of the stems ; they resemble individually those of Incarvillea Delavayi, and are almost as large as a Gloxinia. Pink Perfection, which was raised by Messrs. Robert Veitch and Son of Exeter, is the produce of a single plant, and is now quite fixed and produces itself quite true from seed. The large flowers are of a clear bright pink colour, with a distinct pale throat, the markings of which vary con- siderably. This enhances their beauty when seen in the mass. The spikes are from 4 feet to 5 feet high, and produce their flowers from within a few inches from the base, which is a great advantage ; they continue in flower for several months. It has been found to be perfectly hardy in Cornwall and sheltered places in other parts of Britain. With regard to its cultivation, the seed should be sown during July and August for flowering the following spring and summer, and as soon as large enough to handle pot off the seedlings into 2|-inch pots in a com- post of two parts loam, one part leaf-mould, and one part sand passed through a fine sieve. They should be grown in a cool green- house or frame as near the glass as possible, giving plenty of air during favourable weather to ensure sturdy growth. Shift as soon as necessary into 5-inch pots, adding a little dry cow manure and a 4-inch potful of Thomp- son's Vine Manure to every barrowload of the above compost. If extra fine specimens are required, they should later on be potted into 8-inch or 9-inch pots. This should be done during January and February, but 5-inch pots will be found quite large enough for general purposes ; periodical watering with weak liquid manure may be given from January onwards. To prolong the flowering season, place a few plants in heat during January and February. The number of plants may also be increased by division, as they produce offsets very freely. It is a most useful plant for the conservatory, and, being of easy cultivation, can be grown as well by the amateur as the professional gardener. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. July 24 — National Carnation and Picotce Society's Show, Horticultural Hall, Vincent Square. July 25 —Cardifif Flower Show. July 26 — Belfaet (two days) and St. Ives Horticultural Shows. The International Conference on Hybridisation and Plant Breed- ing.— This should prove the most important event of the horticultural year, and the delegates are promised a series of pleasant entertainments. The conference opens on Monday, the 30th inat., with a conversazione in the Horticultural Hall, when the delegates will be welcomed by the president of the Royal Horticultural Society, Sir Trevor Lawrence, Bart. On the following day the opening address will be delivered by the president of the conference, Mr. W. Bateson, F.R S. , V. M. H. , and in the evening the delegates will dine with the members of the Horticultural Club. On Wednesday, after a morning spent in listening to and discussing the various papers which will be read, a special train will convey the members to Burford, where Sir Trevor and Lady Lawrence will kindly entertain them to luncheon. On Thursday, August 2, the banquet takes place in the Hall ; and on Friday visits will be paid to the Natural History Museum and the Gunnersbury gardens of Mr. Leopold de Rothschild, who has invited the delegates to luncheon. After this, a visit to Kew. National Potato Society. — Mr. Waller P. Wright having resigned the secretary- ship and treasurership of this society, Mr. W. H. Adeett, Hatton House, Great Queen Street, W, C. , has been appointed hon. secretary, and Mr. Charles Foster, University College, Reading, hon. treasurer. Summer outing of the Horti- cultural Club. — The members of the above club are piomised a delightful day on Thursday, the 26th inet. , when the annual excursion takes place. Halton, the residence of Mr. Alfred de Rothschild, will be visited first, and lumh will be partaken of, through the kindness of Mr. de Rothschild. A drive of three miles will bring the party to Tring Park, where tea will be provided by Lord Rothschild. The gardens attached to these famous houses are renowned for their beauty and interest. Huddersfleld Floral and Horti- cultural Society. — The first annual exhibi- tion of this society will be held on Friday and Saturday, August 10 and 11, inGreenbead Park, Hudderefield. The show will be opened by the Mayor (Alderman Broadbent, M.A. ). A good deal of money has been expended in preparing for this, the first show of the society, so we hope that our readers who reside in the neigh- bourhood will give their patronage to the exhibi- tion. Mr. James Schofield, Albion Terrace, Longroyd Bridge, Hudderefield, is secretary. Presentation to Mrs. Martin J. Sutton. — Recently, on the invitation of the Mayor and Mayoress of Reading (Mr. and Mrs. Edward Jackson), a large and thoroughly repre- sentative company gathered in the Municipal Buildings to meet Mrs. Martin Sutton. Mr. Martin John Sutton, one of Reading's first free- men, and the first co-opted major of the county borough, had a very distinguished year of cfiioe, and in every way showed his sense of the duties and responsibilities devolving on a chief magis- trate. The ex-mayor consistently and persis- tently declined to receive any recognition of the gratitude which the inhabitants of Reading entertain towards him for his great public ser- vices, but nothing could prevent a compliment being paid to Mrs. Martin Sutton, who received at the hands of her husband's successor in the civic chair a very beautiful necklet of whole pearls, 398 in number, and made in a very charming festooned design. Terrible destruction to a fi>uit farm in Ireland.— I visited Mr. George Logan's farm and orchard at Ballinora, near Cork, last Friday. You may remember he got first prize for the big collection of Apples at the International Exhibition, Edinburgh, last autumn, and also the silver medal of the Royal Horticultural Society. He has a splendid orchard, and the Apple crop was most promising, but a thunder and hailstorm about a week ago simply destroyed everything on his farm. I never saw or heard of anything like it before in this country. Sixteen acres of Oats were beaten to atoms, nut one ear standing, acres of Mangolds, Turnips, Hay, and Potatoes all destroyed, and his fine orchard of Apple trees battered to pieces. The trees looked as if they had been fired at with buckshot, neither a leaf nor an Apple was left on them ; all the branches and trunks were pierced with the hail- stones, some of which were as big as Walnuts. In my opinion, most of the trees are destroyed, as the bark is split and brown where the hail hit it. I enclose you a few of the Apples and a branch of one of the trees. All the trees are like this sample. Did you ever see or hear of such destruction by hail ? The hail was 2 feet deep on the ground in places after the storm. Lirge Elm, Oik, and Larch trees were broken to the ground by the force of the hail. One man was knocked down while running for shelter, and has been laid up since. All the above are facts and can be attested by anyone. I am sure they would be interesting to readers of yimr valuable paper. — Olivbb F. Hartland, F R.H S., The Lough Nurseries, Cork. [The fruit and wood sent show the extraordinary damage that Mr. Logan's trees have suffered. — En.] Shooting of squirrels.— If the corre- spondent who, in the issue of The Gakdbn for the ,30th ult., advocates the shooting of squirrels will invest one shilling in the purchase of a booklet by the late W. J. Stillman, entitled "Billy and Hans," published by George Bell, and will mark, learn, and inwardly digest same, I am sure he will change his views. Nuts or no Nuts.— Tuscan. Mr. Heilbut'B fruit at Holland House Show. — The group of fruit trees in pots shown at the Holland House Show by Mr. S. Heilbut, The Lodge, Holjport, Maiden- head, was, hy an oversight, attributed in our report to the King's Acre Nurseries, Limited, Hereford, whose exhibit was arranged close by. The pot fruit trees from Mr. Heilbut's garden were perfect specimens of their kind and bore heavy crops of fruit, the Cherries being particu- larly fine. A silver cup was awarded. A good new Hybrid Tea Rose.— Those who saw the blooms of Queen of Spain which Messrs. Bide exhibited at the Holland House Show were struck with its good qualities. It bids fair to become a show flower of great merit. I understand that the Rnse was raised from Antoine Rivoire, and it resembles that grand sort in foliage, but in form it is quite different. The flowers have a high centre, more pronounced than in any of the recent novelties, and it seems firm also. The colour is a fresh blush white, with a tinge of creamy white. For market cultivation under glass this Rose will be valuable. — P. Mo-EfKc mildew destroyer.— I have already had enough expeiience with this new preparation to be able to say that it is of the utmost value. My first trial with it made on some young bush Apple trees which were affected with Apple mildew. Two applications of Mo-Effic by means of a Ver- morel Knapsack Sprayer sufficed to eradicate the mildew in a few hours, although we did not use it at the full strength recommended by the makers. My next trial with it was on some wichuraiana Roses, Dorothy Perkins, &o. , which were suddenly attacked early in June. The mildew was spreading at an alarming rate, and one application seemed to paralyse it, while three applications stamped it out. My gardener is loud in its praises, and I do not think that it will ever be possible to persuade him to go back to sulphide of potassium. As for Lysol, it has proved more destructive to my plants than a May frost, and hundreds of buds were totally ruined by it. However, as MoEffic is cheaper than this prepa- ration, I shall never employ it again, though it would have been invaluable if it would have played the part of fungicide and insecticide at one and the same time. I ought to add that MoEfiic is made hy the Mo-Effic Chemical Company, 55, Brook Street, Bradford, Yorks. — A. R. Goodwin. July 21, 1906. ] THE GARDEN. 27 flowering plants can be had in two and a-half years from the time the cuttings are inserted. W. Dallimokh. T CLEMATISES. _ THE CHINESE O0ELDKB BOSH (VIBUENOM TOMEUrOSUM^VAE. PLICATUM), Epemuri at Foptfield House, Pirenupe, County Dublin.— The flower- spikes this year have attained a height varying from 7 feet to 8 feet 7 inches. Seen among her- baceous plants or dwarf flowering shrubs they have a, noble appearance, and may in such posi- tions be seen to the best advantage. Loudon tells us, in his " Hortus Britannicus," of one Eremurus introduced into the British Isles as far back as 1800. Since that time, by hybridisation and importations, many new varieties have been added, E. elwesianus being one of the finest. A deep, rich soil in a sunny position suits them best. Transplanting is always injurious and retards the flowering. Most of the varieties may be had from any good nursery at 63. apiece, and they will repay the cultivator for any little trouble he may take in protecting the flower- spikes, which are more or less tender and always make their appearance early in the spring. — Samuel Bryan. Sweet Pea Mont Blanc.— This is the earliest variety to bloom I know of. The seed was sown in pots in a frame in February, and the plants began to flower in May. They are now covered with pure white flowers on the herbaceous border at Kew, although the growth is not more than 2 feet high. The flower is not unlike Emily Henderson, and exhibits no tendency to tinge. The growth is very short-jointed, and requires only a few twigs for support, such as a few pieces of an old Birch broom. Earlier in the year it was used with success for greenhouse decoration. I do not claim for it a position among the best show varieties, but as a decora- tive sort for the second row from the front of the herbaceous border, or growing in pots for green- house decoration, it will be found very useful. It is one of Mr. E. Banary's novelties, and was first distributed about 1900 — A. Osborn. HE various sections of the Clematis family provide a wide selection of climbing plants that are excep- tionally suitable for covering walls, trellises, pergolas or rough fences, or for planting in beds, with groups of rough Oak branches to clamber over, in the wilder parts of the garden. Their peculiar recommendations for these purposes consist of luxuriant growth, grace- ful habit, freedom of flowering, and elegant blooms. With a selection of the different sections the blooming period is very pro- longed, for from the time the Florida group commences to bloom in May flowers are to be found in profusion until frost checks the last flowers of the Jackmani set in late autumn. With true species even this period i*i.i.j.<. ,. u t a- I. .. ^^y ^^ extended, for in the earliest days of of the heads of flower have been from 6 inches to i the year the Bafearic Island Clematis (C 8 inches in diameter, borne on long, stout stems, ; „„i'-„> ^„_ , j;^„„j ■ n ^'^'"*"'' V^- which rendered them invaluable for cutting. The ^X« wbnL^ ? '° ^o^f oi^Y^.r™ ordinary blooms of the Guelder Rose are rarely ^^^^' 7^"^ ^^ry early in April C. alpma more than about 3 inches across, so that these "?P^® '° °?f° "^ delicate mauve blooms, have been quite exceptional. If flowers were wJiicti are followed shortly after by those of foregone for one season occasionally, many of our ■'he snow-white C. montana. flowering shrubs would often be seen in better , As Clematises are gross feeders, it is neces- form, as a hard cutting back in spring relieves I sary to provide them with rich soil when the plant of the strain of blooming, so that it they are first planted. The ground should be throws all its vigour into the production of stout growth ; these bear a crop of flowers the following season that show the true character of the plants under the best conditions. J. Clabk. Bagshot, Surrey. TREES AND SHRUBS. THE GUELDER ROSE. I DO not know if the Guelder Rose has been good everywhere this year, but here it has been simply magnificent. Every plant has been loaded with the snow- white balls of bloom, which in the mass have been one of the sights of the season. Oar best show, however, has been one of abaut 200 old plants that were planted about three years ago, and which were cut down to within 18 inches of the ground last April twelvemonth. They did not, of course, flower last year, but they made stout growths 4 feet to 5 feet in height, which have this year been crowded with flowers. Some ERICA AUSTRALIS. The spring-flowering Heaths form a charming feature in gardens where peat - loving plants thrive, especially when various sorts are grown and they are put out in large informal groups and masses. Of the section, E. australis flowers in April, and is per- haps the brightest coloured of all. It is of South European origin, being found wild in Spain and Portugal. Unfor- tunately, it is a little tender, and in the case of severe frost some protection is necessary. A little hay shaken among the branches and some dry leaves about the base of the stem are usually sufficient. When mature it attains a height of 5 feet or 6 feet with a few long branches, the growth being less compact than that of most other species. The leaves are a very dark shade of green, and the flowers, which are of a bright reddish purple, are freely produced and larger than those of the majority of hardy Ericas. Where this species is grown it is advisable to root a pot of cuttings each autumn, and keep them in a cool frame all winter in case of severe frost killing the old plants. As a rule good CLEMATIS FAIR EOSAMOND TRAINED OVBE E0U6H POLES. 28 THE GARDEN. [July 21, 1906. The coccinea group was obtained by crossing the scarlet-flowered herbaceous spe- cies— coccinea, from Texas — with the shrubby which are borne i varieties. As a rule, the branches die to deeply trenched, and, if poor, rich loamy sod Mrs. Quilter, white ; Nellie Moser, blush, should be added with a little lime or mortar ! with red bars ; and The (^ueen, mauve, rubble For the first year after planting I The lanuginosa set is characterised by wfltpr'muat be riven frequently in dry large and handsome flowers, which are borne weather When the plants are well estab- ! in July and August. All the varieties the ground line each winter, and new ones Hshed a dressing of well-decayed manure belonging to this group should have the ! grow from the rootstock in spring though should be forked into the ground about the previous year's shoots cut back midway in | sometimes the lower parts of the branches plants each autumn, with a dressing of lime February each year. The Chinese species C. ; live and break again. Some of the most once every four or five years, and a Ught patens is the parent of the group. The important of this group are Countess of surfacing of decayed leaves or manure may | following varieties are all handsome : Ander- Onslow, violet ^purple ; Duchess of \ prk be riven as a mulch in June with advantage, son Henryi, creamy white ; Beauty of blush pink ; and Duchess ot Albany, bright Propagation may be effected in most ' Worcester, violet ; Duchess of Teck, white ; '■ -"t Thp snhi«,.t. of t>,« ,lln«tr.f,o„ ,= r.r,. cases by means of cuttings in summer or by ! Excelsior, mauve ; Fairy Queen flesh ; grafting in spring on to roots of C. Vitalba. i Imperatnce Eugenie, white ; Lady Caroline Many growers now favour the former rather j Neville, plum ; La France, violet-purple ; pink. The subject of the illustration is one of the patens set. Fair Rosamond. W. D. than'tKe latter method. I Marie Lef ebvre, mauve ; Mme. Van Houtte, The Clematises usually met with in gardens I white ; Reine Blanche, mauve ; and Sensation, belong to one of the following groups :, majuve. • , • ■, r .i, ' Florida, patens, lanuginosa, Viticella, Jack- The Viticblla group is derived from the mani, or coccinea. ! European C. Viticella. The flowers are small The Florida group has for its type C. and elegant, and borne in great profusion, i florida, a species of Japanese origin. The They appear in July, A.ug_ust, and Septem- flowers of this group are borne early in May, ! ber. The branches should be cut back rather PROTECTING STRAW- BERRIES. As the Strawberry Beason comes round again I think the enclosed photograph may be interesting to your readers. I have found this the best and least expensive method of protecting the fruit from birds. Nothing more than a few and are croduced from the old wood : conse- \ harder than those ot the last group during i strong posts, some thatching cord, staples, and Quentlv, the pruning needed must be left February. The following are good varieties : until after the flowers have fallen. Very ' Alba, white; Lady Bovill, blue ; Mme. little pruning is necessary, often merely i Grange, crimson-violet ; Mme. Ihibaut, lilac ; shaping the plants. The whole group is j rubra, red ; Thomas Moore, violet ; and very florif erous, and the flowers are about i venosa, striped. 4 inches across. The following are desirable \ The Jackmani set originated by crossing varieties: Belle of Woking, silvery grey, i thepatensandViticellagroups. Thenumerous double- Countess of Lovelace, pale blue; varieties are very free- flowenng,_ and bloom old fish-nets are required. The staples are for fixing on the tops of the posts to run the cord through ; at each corner there is a stay to keep the posts from being pulled inwards when the cords are tightened. It is easily put up, and most effective. St. Asaph. W. A. Watts. Duchess of Edinburgh, double white Enchantress, double white ; John Gould Veitch, double blue ; and Venus Victrix, double lavender. The patens group blooms a fortnight later, and requires similar treatment with regard to pruning. C. patens, from China and Japan, is the type of this set. Good sorts are Albert Victor, "lavender; Fair Rosamond, white, with — .. red bar; Lady Londesborough, silvery grey; I of India, violet ; tunbridgensis, purple Marcel Moser, white ; Miss Bateman, white ; 1 Victoria, reddish mauve from August to late autumn. They require to be pruned fairly hard back in February, a few buds only of the previous year's wood being retained. The foUovsdng are suitable sorts to grow : Alexandra, violet ; Gipsy Queen, purple ; Jackmani superba, deep purple ; Jackmani alba, white ; Mme. Edouard Andre, red ; magnifica, purple ; Snow White, white ; Rubella, claret ; Star iolet : tunbridgensis, purple ; and FLOWERS IN SEASON FOR VASES. 8TRAWBEBEIES , PBOTKCTED BY A SIMPLK ABBAKGBMEKT. Roses will, of course, now form important features in floral arrangements, and most justly so ; they therefore need no recommendation further than they have received of late. There are, however, many very splendid things among the herbaceous plants now in season. Prominenc among these are the Delphiniums, which are now to be had in such infinite variety of colour, from the very palest to the deepest blue imaginable ; some with many rich variations and shadings, others with distinct white eyes. It may be urged against these fine hardy plants that the flowers do not last when cut, but if the spikes are cut and used with a fair amount of stem and placed in deep vases with plenty of water this may be partially overcome. In this manner some of the buds will also expand if not all. For my own part I prefer to cut the spikes below the lateral ones, unless the central one is exceptionally strong. The leaves, however, should be removed, for they will soon fade. To arrange with the Delphiniums there are several good things, such, for instance, as Spirsea Aruncus and S. astilboides, the first now in flower and the other soon to follow it. There are also Thalictrum aquilegifolium, a hand- some border plant with long spikes of creamy white flowers ; the common white' garden Lily (L. candidum), and L. colohioum, with its pure citron-yellow flowers. Other good things consist of the Day Lily (Hemerocallis flava) and Campanula persicifolia alba. All of these colours will associate well with the various shades of Delphiniums. The hardy Ferns of the larger kinds will supply a good variety of foliage material of considerable size from now onwards for these kinds of arrangements. In using the foregoing Lilies (and others which happen to be in season) by themselves, a free use should be made JULY 21, 1906,] THE GAfiDEN. 29 of the stronger-growing Grasses and Sedges, Buoh as the hardy Panicums, the varieties of Etymus, and those of the Arundo family, with Gvmnothrix latifolia and Qalalia japonica. These Lilies, arranged in a free manner, are fine objects for fireplaces, for sideboards, and entrance halls ; one kind alone suffices to make a good effect, but if variety is prefer- able, two colours which do not clash with each other could be used ; three would be too many. The great mistake made in the arrange- ment of these and other liliaceous flowers is that of cutting away too much of the stem, thus destroying both character and beauty. I saw such an instance only recently in which Iris flowers were being thrust into a bunch of totally unfit foliage, the flowers themselves being care- fully deprived of their stems so as to fit down close upon the said foliage. Nothing could possibly have been in worse keeping. I thought these ways had been abolished by this time, but regret to see that such is not the case in every instance. B. THE ROSE GARDEN, THE PENZANCE BRIAE ROSES. THE beautiful Hybrid Briars which bear the name of their raiser. Lord Penzance — and are likely to keep his memory green so long as such exquisite creations are loved and cultivated — have many valuable characteristics, such as distinctiveness, fragrance, effective colour, and great floriferousness. They were introduced and popularised by Messrs. Wyatt of Salisbury, better known to the public as Keynes, Williams, and Co., who of late years have greatly distinguished themselves as highly successful Dahlia raisers. Every ardent culti- vator, I presume, has his special favourites among the Penzance Briar Boses. My own are : Jeannie Deans, semi-double and scarlet-crimson in colour, a highly effective variety ; Meg Merrilies, even more vivid in hue, a very strong growing, profusely flowering, and brilliant Rose ; Lucy Ashton, white bordered with pink, a very sweet variety, worthy of perpetuating the name of the Bride of Lammermoor ; Amy Bobsart, and Lady Penzance. I find that the Penzance Briars are extremely effective when grown with the Austrian Briar Boses. Jeannie Deans, for example, and Bosa Harrisonii form a charming contrast when grown side by side. David R. Williamson. Kirkmaiden Manse, Wigtonshire, N.B. ROSE MME. JULES GRAVEREAUX. WjBBB it not that I have had personal experience of the vagaries resulting from hybridising the Bose, I should doubt whether this splendid variety really originated from Viscountess Folkestone and Beve d'Or, as it is said to have done. It is without doubt one of the best novelties we have received for some time. To see it in perfection it should be grown as a standard. Every shoot bears one to three splendid flowers, nearly every one fit for the exhibition box. It is a very large flower, ex- ceedingly double, and of exquisite pyramidal form, with the edges of the petals slightly recurved. The colour is a chamois yellow shaded with a peach tint. What I like about the Bose is its freedom of flowering, for whether one prunes hard or sparsely there is always a wealth of bloom. Already this season this Bose has figured in several winning stands, and it is quite good enough to receive the medal as the best bloom in the show. The Bose suffers some- what from being relegated in catalogues to the climbing Boses or Dijon Teas, a curious name, and certainly not warranted in the case of many Boses placed in this group, and I am afraid the merits of Roses in this section are apt to be overlooked, owing probably to the fear that they must be grown upon walls, whereas they succeed admirably as standards, as single bushes for lawns, or upon short pillars. As a pot Rose Mme. Jules Gravereaux is a greatj success, especially when trained in pillar form, or as a standard. I would certainly advise'every grower WEEPING ROSES. Roses nowadays show such a diversity of habit that it is possible to find varieties for almost every purpose that suggests itself. For the trim, well-kept beds often met with in the neighbourhood of a mansion, the various Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, and Hybrid Teas are in place, and always beautiful when covered with flowers. HYBRID TEA EOSB MMB. J0LES_'gRAVBBEAUX, This variety was recently given an award oftnerit by the Royal Horticultural Society. Slightly reduced.) who does not possess the Rose to obtain it as soon as possible. Another superb sort of similar character, except in form, is Mme. Hector Leuilliot. The colour is delightful, having that rich orange shading we love so much in Wm. Allen Richardson, but with flowers almost if not quite of exhibition standard. Grow this type of Bose as standards and quite a new feature will be added to the Bose garden. P. For informal beds on lawns many of the species, Bambling Boses, Penzance Briars, and the rugosa hybrids are well fitted. For clothing fences, walls, trellises, old tree stumps, pergolas, or arbours the ramblers provide many beautiful examples. For planting against old Hollies or other evergreens over which the branches can climb, the pretty white flowered B. moschata and the red Carmine Pillar form an excellent pair. 30 THE GARDEN. [July 21, 1906. A BBADTIFUL WATER LILY (NYMPH^A GLORIOSA). while]for wild garden and woodland many of the strong growing specieB are well adapted. In addition to the particular tj pas mentioned above, there are others which are very lovely, one of them being the weeping set. The varieties used for this purpose might all be classed among the rambling or trailing Roses, the only difference being that instead of being grown in the same way as dwarf Roses, they are budded on stems and trained more or less in an umbrella-like fashion. To obtain fine specimens of weeping Roses bud on standards 5 feet or 6 feet in height. Although with weeping or trailing varieties the pendulous habit is assumed naturally when budded on tall stems, to obtain the most perfect speci- mens some training must be done in early life. This can be accomplished by placing a wide, strong wire hoop, 6 feet or more in diameter, round the bead and training the main branches across to it. If additional height is required, one shoot may be tied upright to a stake and another set of branches started from that. When once several good strong branches have been secured to the wire ring, fiUing-up work follows rapidly. It is essential that the wire should be firmly secured in position, and this may be done by driving three strong but light stakes into the ground, on which it can be tied. The best position for weeping Roses is on a lawn where there is nothing to crowd them. Each one should have a small, separate bed, and should be provided with good, rich loamy soil. After flowering, some of the old flowering wood must be removed, its place being taken by the current year's shoots.il Suitable varieties to grow in thisi manner are Dundee Rambler, of whichl an illustration accompanies this article,! Crimson Rambler, Queen Alexandra, Dorothy Perkins, Lady Gay, Aimee Yibert, Helene, all the wichuraiana hybrids, of which examples are : Rubra, Alberic Barbier, Auguste Barbier, Fran9oi8 Foucard, and Paul Transon ; the new Hiawatha, the single white flowered form of R. rugosa, sent out by Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheshunt, as rugosa repens, and, in fact, the majority of the free-flowering varieties of the rambler section. W. D. for them is a calm lake or pond, sheltered yet not overshadowed by trees and free from water rats, waterfowl, or swans. In such a place as this the plants will make large groups, and the bright flowers are made doubly attractive by the mass of surrounding leafage. The flowers may be cut for the house and constitute an uncommon and beautiful form of decoration. Reflex the segments to prevent the bloom closing, and gather flowers not more than a day old, floating them in plenty of water. Nymphsea gloriosa is THE FLOWER GARDEN. OMPHALODES LUCILI^. IT was with much pleasure that I read the very interesting note in The Garden from Mr. Frank Crisp on the rare Omphalodes Lucilise. This beautiful species was discovered in 1842 by Boissier, in the alpine regions of Southern Anatolie, and described by him in 1844. He introduced it into his garden at Valleyses in the canton de Yaud, and grew it there in the crevices of a wall facing west. I saw it there in 1868, and it then formed large and remarkably beau- tiful tufts. When M. Boissier showed it to me he told me that this species grows in a wild state in cracks on the face of steep rocks, where it forms large and compact tufts, sometimes attain- ing a great age. From M. Boissier's garden this species showed everywhere a little, but as it seeds sparsely and grows slowly, it is rarely cultivated. The finest plants of this Omphalodes I have seen (excepting those of M. Boissier, which have, I believe, disappeared from the garden at Yalleysee) are those which you illustrate growing in the gardens of Friar Park, Henley-on-Thames. This plant does well with me, but does not reach the size it should do. It seeds rarely and poorly, but it sometimes happens, as in the Mioheli garden, chateau de Juny, near Geneva, that it perpetuates itself by self-sown seed. As regards the best situation for this Ompha- lodes, some say that it requires a shady place, while others grow it in a sunny spot. It seems wisest to plant in a position between these two extremes.^for the plants in M, Boissier's garden. A WEEPING standard OF BOSB DUNDEE KAMBLBB. WATER LILIES. A GARDEN gains immensely in attraction and restfulness if it contains a pool or pond of water wherein some of the many beautiful Nymphseas may be grown. An ideal place one of the most handsome among many fine varieties. To use the description given by its raiser, " It is a scented flower 7 inches in diameter, very double, and of perfect form ; currant red washed with rose-white at the tips of the lower petals, stamens rich red." The best time for planting Nymphaeas is the month of April. The plants are planted in old baskets, and these are sunk into 1 foot or more of water, keeping the smaller-leaved kinds near the margin, which were very fine, were, as I have said, grown facing west. The blue tint of this flower is so beautiful that M. Boissier named it after his late wife, who was very fond of the colour blue. This delightful plant is found in Greece among the steep rocks of Mount Parnassus. Several other Omphalodes merit attention, including Omphalodes verna, with pure blue flowers. This plant ("Diagnoses plantarum orientarum novarum," I., lY., page 41) has been July 21, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 31 known in gardens for centuriee. Portugal has given us a rare treasure in Omphalodes nitida (0. lusitanioa), which forms small tufts of deep green leaves, covered in spring with charming flower bunches of an intense and brilliant blue. Henri Coerbvon. A SELECTION OF SWEET PEAS. It is one thing to make a selection of what seems to be the most striking Sweet Peas when seen at an exhibition. It is, however, far safer to make a selection from a growing trial where not one or two but practically all varieties are grown, not only side by side and under ordinary and similar conditions, but also are grouped in colours. Such an opportunity was recently offered to the members of the Sweet Pea Society when visiting Messrs. Watkins and Simpson's great trial at Twickenham, where some 130 varieties were seen. At such a trial also it was possible to note which varieties gave the best bulk of flower or garden decorative effects, and which, also, were the most true to character. Many varieties are still so inconstant that they show how possible it is to put Sweet Peas into commerce before con- stant growth and selection have finally reduced them to consistent colouring. The one best and much finest white is Dorothy Eckford ; that fact is universally admitted. Then come cream shades, of which the best are Gracie Greenwood and Dora Breadmore, while the best yellow or buflf shades is the Hon. Mrs. Kenyon ; and of orange shades, these being largely rosy orange or orange-rose, are quite a variety of colours, wonderfully in favour just now. Oriental, Gorgeous, Evelyn Byatt, Henry Eckford, Bolton's Pink, Helen Lewis, and Miss Willmott, all being quite dissimilar and very beautiful. Most of these need shading from hot sunshine. Rose colours are good such as Prince of Wales and Lord Rosebery ; blush, Evelyn Breadmore ; pink, shaded rose, Gladvs Unwin, John Ingham, Mrs. A. Watkins, and Janet Scott ; scarlet and crimson. Queen Alexandra, Mars, and King Edward VII. ; blues. Romola Piazzani. Navy Blue, Captain of the Blues, and D. R. William- son ; magenta, George Gordon ; violet-purple, Duke of Westminster ; maroon. Black Knight, Black Michael, and Admiral Togo ; lavender, Flora Norton and Lady Grisel Hamilton ; Pieotee-edged, Lottie Eckford and Dainty ; fancy, Jeannie Gordon;'" and flaked, America, Mrs. J. Chamberlain, and Helen Pearce. A. Dean. -•r'-~-' r TULIP INGLESCOMBE SCARLET. The late-flowering May Tulips are fast becoming popular favourites in gardens, although for beds that are used for summer bedding they are rather late if the bulbs are to be retained for growing a second year. They cannot be lifted before the middle of June. As border Tulips they have few equals. The subject of this note is a beautiful deep ecirlet belonging to the May-flowering cottage section. It is a long petalled variety with a dark base, and grows about 20 inches in height. A bed of it near the main gate at Kew was very effective last spring. Messrs. W. T. Ware received an award of merit for it when they exhibited it before the Royal Horticultural Society in May, 1902. A. 0. HERBACEOUS PEONIES. These plants are most accommodating in their nature, for they grow and flower freely in spots so shaded that few plants will succeed there. The flowers last longer in such a position than when grown in full sun, and the colours are more intense. Pasonies are most suitable for planting in the front of shrubberies, the sides of carriage drives, &c. They are very valuable for cut bloom, and if gathered in a young state, when only a few petals are opened, will last for five or six days in water. They are very seldom attacked by disease or insects. They will grow in any soil, but to obtain large flowers deep \ trenching of the land and the application of ■ plenty of manure are essential. They should also be supplied with plenty of water during hot, dry weather. Some of the new varieties are deliciously scented. The leaves in autumn are rose-red or purple, and are most useful for decorations. Where space permits Pfeonies should be planted in masses of separate colours, when they will form an effect not easily for- gotten. The brilliancy of their colours renders them visible at a great distance. Narcissus may be planted in among them for early flowering, and Gladiolus for flowering in late summer. Munden Oardens, Watford. C. Ruse. ROSE THE GARLAND, This Hybrid Musk Rose should find a place in every wild garden, or failing that it should be planted where it can clamber over stumps of trees, arbours, or in fact any position where a good free-growing Rose is wanted. Its immense panicles of fragrant tiny buff - coloured buds and creamy white blossoms are lovely. The individual flowers are about 1]: inches in diameter, and it is quite common to see a shoot of this Rose bearing ten to twelve laterals, each one of these containing as miny as twenty to thirty buds and blossoms. When the blossoms upon these laterals are all expanded the effect is very pretty. THE GABLAND EOSB IN THE NURSEET OF ME G. PRIXOB, LONGWOBTH, BEEKS. 32 THE GAKDEN. [JuLV 2l, i9oe. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS, A BOUT WIREWORMS.— The damage /% that these pasta do to garden crops / % is immense, and if one considers for / ^ a moment the difficulty which a gar- £ \_ doner has to face when taking charge of a garden which is overrun with wireworms, one can quite understand his position. Not only do wireworms utterly destroy many crops while W the latter are in a young stage, but they also di s - figure and par tially ruin matur- SIMPLE HINTS. is — or, at any rate, should be — carried out in ' resorted to ; in fact, root - pruning is a valu- summer, towards the end of July being a suitable ; able method of bringing trees which are ' During their season of growth the laterals ; making gross growth into a fruitful condi- ing crops, renderi ng these when marketed almost worthless , and, where used for home con- sumption, wasteful. W^ireworms are generally found in light, undisturbed pasture or lay ground, and where turves are out from such ground and used for the potting of valuable plants, every bit of it should be hand picked and the worms destroyed. Remedies which are applied at such times will be as harmful as the wireworms, because the latter are so difficult to kill. As will be seen in the sketch, these grubs are fond of Carrots ; and if Carrots are inserted in a bed where such plants as Cucumbers and Melons are growing, or even in a small Vine border, they will serve as a trap. The Carrots should be withdrawn every morning and the grubs found in them destroyed. A small quantity of loam can thus be cleared, but where one has to deal with large breadths of soil in the open garden stronger measures must be taken. The early part of autumn is the best time to begin war upon the wireworms — 1^ cwt. of agricultural salt should be given to a quarter of an acre of ground, and 2 cwt. of hot lime. The soil should then be turned over deeply with the spade. Again put on 1 cwt. of gas-lime and welt mix it with the soil. If left until spring and then freely worked again— but not adding any more lime or salt — the ground will be fairly free of these wiry grubs. A period of at least five months should elapse between the time of putting on the salt and lime and the cropping of the treated soil. In the sketch, AA shows a wireworm entering -a Carrot and perforating it respectively. The result is that the root is damaged considerably, a large portion of it decaying. The arrow B points to another injury done to the root by the wireworm. In this case, although the hole made is not deep, it defaces a large surface portion, and spoils both quality and appearance of the root. — Avon. Sunvnur Pruning the. Apple. — The most im- portant part of the work of pruning Apple trees WIREWORMS EOEINO INTO CARROT. or side shoots of Apple trees develop rapidly, and if left unchecked will make quite strong shoots by the end of the season. In the following early spring these would have to be cut back hard, with the result that instead of fruit-buds form- ing, further shoots only would result, and gradually the tree would become valueless. The object of summer pruning is, by restricting the wood growth of the tree, to help the development of fruit-buds. Instead of allowing these side shoots to grow unchecked until the winter, they should be pinched or cut back to within six leaves of the base (not counting the two small basal leaves), so as to encourage the formation of fruit- buds at the base of the shoot and lay the founda- tion of a fruit-spur, i.e., a short, stubby shoot bearing fruit-buds. It is important that the lateral shoots should not be pinched or cut back too early in the season while the sap is in full ac- tivity, or it may result in forcing the basal buds into growth. If, as above recom- mended, the pruning is not carried out before the latter half of July , this danger will be avoided. At the winter pruning these shoots, already half-pruned in the summer, must be cut back to within three buds of the base. The pruning of the Apple tree is a subject upon which one cannot be dog- matic, for there are so many side issues to be taken into consideration. When an Apple tree is making vigorous growth and produces numerous and strong side shoots, the practice of summer prun- ing as detailed is not in itself sufficient to keep the tree in a fruitful condition. In such a case root-pruning should be tion, although it is frequently neglected. If fruit trees becoming less fruitful were regularly root-pruned, they would yield far better crops, and then less pruning of the shoots would be needed. The less pruning above ground an Apple tree needs, the more satisfactory is it likely to be. However, there is usually a certain amount of pruning to be done, and pinching the shoots in summer, so as to encourage the formation of fruit-buds at the base, is a far better practice than allowing the shoots to grow unchecked until the winter, and then to cut them back hard and 80 produce more growths. Characteristic Growths. — A. Short stubby growth, the leaves disposed almost in a circle, with a blossom-bud in the centre ; this is a SUMMER PRUNING THE APPLE. July 21, 190 M THE GARDEN. 33 fruitful spur, and must no< be pruned. B. Growth intermediate between a epur and a wood shoot, not extending beyond a few inches ; the leaves are olosely set, with somewhat prominent buds in the axils, and terminated by a conspicuous bud, often a blossom-bud ; this is a short stubby shoot, and must be pruned neither in summer nor winter. C. Short stubby growth, but not with leaves disposed in a circle, and the terminal bud pointed, not bold ; this is an imperfected spur, and must not be shortened, as it will (most likely) produce some blossom-buds the following summer. D. A side shoot more than five points long, and requiring either pinching in summer or shortening in winter, or both ; a, point of stop- ping at third good leaf b ; not counting small basal leaves e. E. Branch with these character- istic growths ; d, basal bud not started into growth, therefore termed " latent," and available for cutting down (in case of necessity) to originate a new branch ; e, short stubby growths — incipient spurs ; /, short shoot suitable for retaining to form spurs ; g, a spur with blossom- bud at apex, on which fruit is borne the following summer ; h, a growth intermediate between a spur and a growing shoot, terminated by a fruit- bud ; common in some varieties of Apple, and not to be shortened for obvious reasons ; >, side shoots that must be either pinched in summer or shortened in winter, or both, unless required for filling vacant space or furnishing the tree with branches which must be at least 1 foot apart ; /, point of pinching ; ]c, continuation of branch growth, trained intact in case of wall or espalier tree, or pinched at Hf a bush or pyramid tree. Pinching of Side Shoots. — F. Shoot at second stopping ; m, point of first pinching (sec shoot D) ; n, laterals stopped to one leaf. G. Shoot after second pinching ; o, sub-laterals to be stopped, if necessary to one leaf, as shown, but not after the early part of September ; p, buds plump. The object of stopping is to make the buds develop without starting into growth. THE GREENHOUSE. Begonia — A large and varied family. The tuberous rooted is the most popular, and there are single and double varieties of many colours. The sorts are useful both for the greenhouse and conservatory and beds in the flower garden. Generally speaking, they pass the winter in a dormant state, when they should be stored safe from frost and kept dry without being actually parched up. Pot these in February or March in a mixture of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, when more water must be given, to be increased as the plants grow. Pot the tubers at first into com- paratively small pots, and shift the larger ones when necessary, taking care that the roots do not get too cramped. When flowering during summer manure water is of great service. These Begonias may be very easily raised from seed sown early in the year, and the little plants pricked off when large enough into shallow pans, and thence to separate pots ; but a warm house is necessary for seed-raising. As the plants pro- gress less warmth is required, until artificial beat may be entirely dispensed with. As the large plants cease flowering in the greenhouse give less water, and as the stems begin to fall away it may be discontinued altogether. The other groups of Begonias are not quite beginners' plants, except the beautiful Gloire de Lorraine and the Turn- ford Hall. Bougainvillea glabra — A handsome climbing plant, which has showy purple bracts which flu the place of flowery and are freely borne during summer and early autumn. Throughout the winter it must be kept fairly dry, and on the return of spring shorten in any straggling shoots ; repot in a soil made up of loam, leaf-mould, and silver sand. After this place in the warmest part of the greenhouse and syringe frequently. This induces a quick growth and plenty of bracts. Give very little shading. Cuttings strike root readily in spring in a close propagating case. Bouvardia. — All the Bouvardias are pretty little greenhouse plants which bloom in autumn. They are, like the preceding, increased by cut- tings of the young shoots in early spring. When they are well rooted pot them off into 3inch pots, and when these are filled with roots shift them into 5-inch pots. If the points of the shoots are pinched out on two occasions during the season, the Bouvardias will have formed by autumn neat little bushes, with the chief shoots crowned with clusters of pretty flowers. The old plants, after flowering, may be kept moderately dry during winter and repotted in spring, shortening back at that time any straggling shoots. In this way they will grow and flower well. As the temperature of the outside air will be sufficient during summer for Bouvardias, they may at that season be kept in a greenhouse or in a frame outdoors. Even the protection of a frame is not necessary after they are well estab- lished in their flowering pots, but when first potted heavy rain would be injurious to them. Good varieties are Alfred Neuner, double white ; eandidissima, white ; Dazzler, scarlet ; Hogarth flore-pleno, double scarlet ; Humboldti corymbi- flora, white, very sweetly scented ; Mrs. Robert Green, pale salmon-pink ; President Cleveland, vivid scarlet ; President Garfield, double pink ; Priory Beauty, light rose ; The Bride, blush white ; and Vreelandi, pure white. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. CCETHBA ABBOBEA. Mr. F. Lazenby sends from The Nurseries, Southport, flowers of this beautiful shrub, the racemes of which are o£ purest white. Our correspondent writes: "A few flowers of Clethra arborea, cut from a tree about sixteen years old grown in a pot in the large con- servatory here. It is one mass of bloom at the present time, and is very attractive. It has not flowered for the past six years." A Bbight Soaelet Sweet William. Mr. Mackenzie sends from Billesby Hil), Alcester, flowers of a very bright scarlet Sweet William. Sweet Peas and Gypsophila elegans. Mr. Head of The Gardens, Kingsdon Manor, Taunton, sends some exceptionally fine flowers of the varieties Dorothy Eckford, Sutton's Queen of Pinks, Prince of Wales, Coccinea, Salopian, and the Hon. Mrs. Kenyon, also sprays ot the pretty Gypsophila elegans, a pure white annual flower which is not sufficiently grown in English gardens. Azaba dbntata. Mrs. Moore sends from Glasnevin Botanic Gardens a shrub which is most uncommon in gardens, and we are glad to see so fine a flowering specimen of it. Its neat ovate leaves and wealth of yellow fragrant flowers are the most note- worthy characteristics. Mrs. Moore writes : " Some sprays of Azara dentata, a Chilian shrub, that does very well here. It stands in the open, and gets no protection in winter ; it has bright shining leaves, and is now in flower, the air around it being filled with their sweet per- fume." Flowebs fbom a Garden in Ireland. The Rbv. W. W. Flemyng, Coolfin, Portlaw, County Waterford, sends from his rectory garden flowers of the following plants, a most interesting list : Buddleia variabilis, Abutilon vitifolium album, Calyoauthus floridus, Cistus cyprius, C. florentinus, C. landaniferus, C. laurifolius, Colutea arborescens, Eicallonia exoniensia, E. rubra, Philadelphus Avalanche, P. Boule d'Argent, P. Manteau d'Hermoine, P. grandiflora, Ozothamnus rosmarinifolius, Phlomis fruticosa, Rubus nobilis, Syringa japonica, Veronica speciosa Autumn Glory, V. cupressoides, V. pinguifolia, V. salicifolia, V. Traversi, Bupthal- mum salicifolium, Cephalaria alpina (nearly 6 feet high), Lavender Glasnevin variety, and IncarvilleaDelavayi. Mr. Flemyng writes : "The Incarvillea was sown only two years ago, and nearly every one of several dozen plants has flowered this year. It is a splendid plant, both for foliage and bloom." GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. HARDY CYPRIPEDIUMS (Lady's Slippers). — These charming Orchids are treasured by all who are in- terested in hardy flower culture. C. spkctaeilb (the Mocassin Flower) is the handsomest of all the hardy kinds. When happily situated it produces stems 2 feet to 3 feet in height. The flowers are in pairs, while well-established plants frequently produce three blooms on a stem. A group planted under the shelter of a north-west wall in a pre- pared bed of peat and leaf- mould has done remarkably well this year, each producing several stems with three highly coloured large blooms. This beautiful flower requires abundance of mois- ture. It does not appear to object to the sun shining on it during part of the day so long as its roots are kept cool and shaded. With this object in view I planted the surface of the bed last July with small plants of Saxifraga muscoides pur- purea, sprinkling it with water every evening till it became established. It formed a cushion-like growth in a few weeks, acting as a protection to the roots of the Cypripedium from frost in winter, and in summer it keeps the roots cool. This treatment has certainly suited it, as shown by the strong, healthy growth and flowers. The Saxifraga would become too dense if allowed to remain over a year ; it should be cleared off and the bed top-dressed with 2 inches of peat and loaf-mould. The roots of the Cypripedium will be found on the surface, having a tendency to go upward. Replant pieces of the Saxifraga, keeping it well supplied with water till estab- lished. Other Cypripediums thriving under the same conditions are C. oociDENTALi. — This is very pretty, generally bearing three flowers on a stem, having brown sepals and petals and white lip. C. rARVJFLOBTJM and C. pdbescbns, with our own native Cilceolus, area trio similar in appear- ance. The flowers are of different shades of brown and yellow. The latter species prefers the addition of limestone to the soil. Orchis. — The British species are abundant in moist meadows. Some are very pretty, but all are surpassed by the Orchis foliosa from Madeira. This very desirable kind is of easy culture ; a cool, shady spot should be chosen in which to make a deep bed of fibrous loam with a little leaf-mould added. Give abundance of water and top-dress annually in July with 2 inches of rough leaf-mould. Divide and transplant every three years. I have found it to flourish with this treatment. Roses. — These ought now to receive attention. All faded flowers should be cut off, as this will induce the plants to make fresh growth that will bloom in the autumn. Many varieties of Hybrid Teas are excellent for autumn flowering. These should be encouraged as much as possible. If satisfactory results are to be obtained, feeding will be necessary wherever the soil is poor, 34 THE GARDEN. [July 21, 1906. Roses require good culture. Keep the beds well supplied with water and treat the plants liberally. They will give a wealth of bloom until the frosts cut them down in winter. Pansies.^ — Now is a good time to take cuttings of these. This is a very simple matter. A shady corner of the garden under a north wall is a suitable place. Prepare a bed of light, sandy soil 4 inches deep in a frame in which to insert the cuttings. Place half-an-inoh of sand on the surface, and dibble the cuttings in 3 inches apart. In selecting cuttings, choose the growths from the centre or the base of the old plants, prefer- ably those which can be pulled from below the soil. These are known as underground cuttings, and generally root the most quickly and make the best plants. However, it is not always pos- sible to get a sufficient number of these, so side shoots must be taken. Avoid the strong and sappy growths, as it is difficult to root these as a rule. When inserting the cuttings, press the soil firmly round the base, give a good water- ing, and cover with a light to be shaded from the sun. The cuttings will be rooted in about a month. The lights should then be removed. G. D. Davison. Weslwick Gardens, Norwich. ORCHIDS. Cool House Orchids. — The cool house will require special attention with regard to shading, damping, and ventilating for the next few months. In hot, dry weather the greatest difficulty is in keeping the conditions cool and moist enough to suit the plants therein. Although Odonto- gloBsums delight in abundance of air it is not advisable to use the top ventilators too freely during hot weather, as by so doing the moisture which is necessary for these plants is allowed to escape. The atmosphere must always be well charged with moisture, and to maintain these conditions it is necessary to syringe between the pots and damp the floor several times a day, and when the outside conditions are favourable the plants should be sprayed overhead occasionally. The majority of Odontoglossums have finished flowering, and many are now producing new growth. It is immediately after the flowering stage that the plants must be watered carefully, as the roots in most cases are practically dormant, and if the compost is kept in a saturated con- dition they will decay. The blinds should be lowered immediately the sun's rays reach the plants. The beautiful Oncidium MAnRANTHOM is a cool-growing Orchid. It is now producing its flower-spikes and requires plenty of moisture at the root. As soon as the flowers are fully developed it is advisable to cut the spike in order to keep the plants in good condition. Oncidium conoolor is also a cool-growing species, which at the present time will need resurfacing or repotting as the case may be. The flowers are produced in pendulous racemes, and for that reason it is pre- ferable to grow them suspended from the roof in ordinary Orchid pans without side holes. Plants that were repotted last season should not be disturbed at the root, as the plants often produce much larger pseudo-bulbs the seasons they are not repotted providing the compost and con- ditions are favourable. All that is necessary with such plants is to renew the surface compost. Should any plants need repotting the best time to attend to them is when the young growths are from 2 inches to 3 inches high. Pot them moderately firm in a mixture of equal proportions of fibrous peat and chopped sphagnum moss and about one-fourth Oak leaf -soil. Mix the whole well together and add a quantity of finely-broken crock and coarse sand. Surface the plants with a layer of chopped sphagnum and water them carefully until the roots have become well estab- lished in the new compost. They grow equally well in a moisture of Polypodium fibre and sphagnum moss. Oncidiom varicosum is a stronger-growing subject and produces long arching spikes. They are best grown on the stages in ordinary flower-pots, which should be half filled with drainage material when repotting is necessary, otherwise the same treatment suits their require- ments. Odontoglossum Rossii and 0. Oervantesii are dwarf-growing species which should be grown in shallow pans suspended from the roof. They should be treated as the above species, and many of them are now ready for repotting. Being moisture-loving plants they should be placed where the conditions of the house are most suited to them. W. H. Page. Chardwar Gardens, Bourton-cm-the- Water, Glos. FRUIT GARDEN. Apricots. — The fruits will in most parts of the country have finished stoning, and a number of secondary growths will have pushed forth, all of which should be pinched back to one leaf. To prevent the young foliage from harbouring insects, give the roots a heavy application of water and wash the trees with the garden engine, doing the latter daily till the fruits commence to change colour. AJits, woodlice, and sometimes mice are troublesome, compelling the gardener to take means to preserve the fruit from injury. Num- bers of woodlice may be caught by placing inverted flower-pots filled with dry hay on the borders near the trees, and once or twice a week dropping the hay into a pail of scalding water. Ants are very difficult to deal with ; if their nests can be located, a large number of them may be killed by pouring boiling water over them at night, which, of course, is only possible where the nests are at some distance from the roots of the trees. They may also be trapped by laying down pieces of meat or a dead bird or two near their runs. The most effectual remedy for the destruction of ants I have yet found is a patent rat poison, which has been used in these gardens for several years with good results, and which if left near their haunts will soon be found covered with dead ants. Mice when allowed to increase do much damage, and should be trapped by any of the usual methods. If Wasps are troublesome, the fruits may be gathered before they are quite ripe and placed in shallow, nicely papered boxes in a vinery where the Grapes are ripe, and from which wasps are excluded ; here in two or three days the fruits will ripen perfectly and be fit for preserving or dessert. Apples. — As soon as the summer pruning of the trees is completed, make an examination of the fruits and pick off all that are infested with the maggot and burn them ; this will considerably lessen the numbers of the codlin moth next season. Infested fruit may be easily recognised by a dark spot at the apex. Any fruits that may drop during the next month or six weeks should be carefully collected and given to the pigs if not fit for cooking. Trees that are carrying a full crop will be benefited by frequent applications of liquid manure or an equal quantity of sulphate of ammonia and sulphate of potash dissolved in water. Strawberries. — As soon as the early crops are gathered, the plants in those beds which will be retained for another year should be divested of all their runners and lower leaves ; this is best done by clasping as much of the foliage as it is desirable to retain with the left hand, then with the right cut off the runners and leaves with one sweep of the knife. Runners which may have become rooted between the lines should be hoed down, and, together with the rubbish, be raked off and placed in a heap, to be afterwards used in trenching. The surface should be kept clean with frequent hoeings, and all later runners removed as soon as they appear. Beds which have stood their allotted time will be cleaned off the land at once if it is required for growing another crop ; but should this not be found necessary, they may be allowed to remain till trenched down at the usual season. Late Strawberries on light soils will need plentiful supplies of water if hot weather con- tinues, as, if allowed to become dry at the roots, the fruits will be small and their season short. Constant attention to hoeing down weeds is necessary, and when done with the soil in a dry state they need not be raked off, but allowed to die on the ground. Thomas R. Wilson. Glamis Castle Gardens, Olamis, N.B. KITCHEN GARDEN. Planting Varioos Vegetables. — Seedling plants from late sowings of Celery should be pushed forward at once, as Celery planted after this date does not develop into such fine "sticks" as those planted earlier. Give attention to these and examine them carefully, removing any side growths or split leaves. See that the plants do not suffer from lack of water at the roots ; stir the soil between the plants in the trenches with a small hoe, which will help to promote more rapid growth. Push on with plantings of Broc- coli and Kales for winter ; all except the very latest should be in by the end of the month. If a crop of second early Potatoes is impeding planting operations, lift and store them in a cool place in soil that is just moist. Ground that has been dug or forked over should be made firm with the feet before planting, as loose soil is conducive to gross leafy growth, which does not as a rule winter very well. Ellani's Early Cabbage, if sown as recommended in the middle of June, will soon be ready for planting, when they should turn in and be very useful in autumn and early winter. Plant Coleworts about 15 inches by 12 inches. Turnips. — A good breadth of Turnips should soon be sown for winter use. The ground must be well prepared and have a liberal dressing of wood ashes. Turnips sown for this purpose must not be crowded. Make the drills from 14 inches to 16 inches apart and about 2 inches deep. When the Turnip-fly is feared the drills should be specially prepared by drawing a small trench 4 inches or 5 inches deep and filling in with prepared soil to promote rapid growth. The Red Globe is a variety that succeeds well for this crop ; White Stone is also an excellent keeping variety. Thin and keep the soil well stirred between the rows of previous sowings. Continue with succes- sional sowings of an early variety for fresh pulled Turnips. If dry give a thorough watering occa- sionally, small quantities or driblets generally promote only leafy growth. Shallots and Garlic. — As soon as the leaves of these bulbous plants turn yellow and show signs of ripening the bulbs should be pulled up out of the ground and laid on the surface, exposing them to the sun for several days for thorough ripening ; turn them over once or twice before finally storing them. Should the weather be wet and stormy at this time, remove them into a dry, airy shed, or under a glass roof, where they will dry and mature properly. Mushrooms — Make preparations for new beds by collecting fresh horse manure sufficient for another bed ; throw it into a heap and turn occa- sionally, as previously recommended. Beds at this season of the year are better made in a cellar or an outhouse than in an ordinary Mushroom house, a more suitable temperature being in the former. Do not let any beds in bearing become dry, and keep the floor and sides of the structure well syringed each day. Mildew. — Attacks of this fungoid pest occur very frequently in some seasons in both the Onion and Pea crops. As soon as it is noticed among the Onions the affected leaves should be pulled off and the whole bed dusted once or twice with black sulphur. For Peas I think, if taken in time, sulphur dusting is as effective as anything that can be applied. Bryanston Gardens, Blandford. J. Jaqubs. July 21, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 35 TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Answers.— TAe Editor intends to make The Garden help/ul to all readers wlw desire assist- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and with that object will make a special feature of the " Answer z to Correspondents" column. All communications should be dearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the BDrroB of THE Gaudeh. to, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the PnBLISHKB. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a sepa/rcUe piece of paper. Liegal Points.— Jfe are prepared to answer questions of law which have anything to do with the svitject of gardening and forestry. The questions should be as dear as possible. Answers wiU be found in a separate column headed "Legal Points." FLOWER (iARDEN. LiNABiA DALMATICA (J. H.). — ThiB is a native of South-Eistern Europe, and was introduced to this country about 1731. It is a very robust, vigorous-growing perennial, showy and useful alike for the border or the rook garden. It rarely exceeds SJ feet in height, of a somewhat loose, straggling habit, but extremely free flowering, the flowers large and attractive. It may be increased readily from cuttings or from seed, which it ripens freely. L. genist^folia, a nearly allied species, is not so showy as L. dalmatica. FuNKiA SiBBOLDi (H.). — This Funkia would be well worth growing for its noble foliage alone, but its beauty is greatly enhanced by the long spikes of pretty lilac flowers which it throws up BO freely during the summer months. It is not at all hard to grow and flowers well. Given abundance of moisture in the hot weather it will flourish in almost any position. F. grandiflora is not so accommodating. It is impossible to make this variety flower unless given a sheltered and sunny position, but under glass its white, Bweet-Ecented blooms are frenly produced. lis leaves are of much brighter green than thoce oi F. Sieboldi, and it blooms in late summer. Campanulas (H. S). — You do not say what Campanula you refer to, but we presume you mean the Chimney Campanula (C. pyramidalis). You were late in sowing the seeds ; this should have been done early in March, and if extra sized plants are rfquired the seeds may be sown in February. The plants require fifteen or sixteen months from the sowing to the flowering, and the first season should be devoted to growing the plants as quickly as possible. No doubt your plants will fiower another year, but you should aim at obtaining the largest plants possible during the present season. Seeds sown in February or March and got up quickly should give seedlings ready for 3-ioch pots in six weeks, and a month or so later the plants should be in 6-inch pots In these pots good crowns will be made, and no further shift should be given the plants till early in February, when the strongest may be put into 9-inch pots, and those of lesser size into pots oi S inches diameter. Strange Foxglo^i; (S.) —The campanulate flowers are caused by the fusion of two or three blooms at the top of the spike. It Is DOt a cross and is not rare. Diseased Irises (Mrs. M. C. Lescher).—K\\ the diseased plants ought to be dug up and destroyed, while the rest should be moved into another position. The best time for moving Irises is just after they have done flowering, so that they may be transplanted at once and will become well established before the winter season. In making a new bed, some mortar rubbish should be dug in with the soil before planting. To keep the disease in check, the Irises should be sprayed with a solution of permanganate of potash two or three times in spring before they flower. This disease is getting very common where Irises are grown in any quantity, first attacking and destroying the roots, which causes the leaves to turn yellow and eventually destroys the plant. This fungus la not likely to attack anything except members of this family. FLOWERina Plants in SHKCBBERr (S. C.).— We are afraid that no flowering plants will prove a success under the conditions named by you. The Day Lilies (Hemero- callis) and German Iris will do as well as anything, and to these may be added the greater Periwinkle. Carnations Dying Off (K. S. Beow).- The Carnation sent has been killed by the Carnation maggot ; the stem is hollowed out by it. It is the larvse of a small fly, Hylemia nlgrescens. This may not be the cause of so many plants dying. If the stem is much swollen at the base, the eelworm may be to blame. RoMNEYA Failing (B. R. F.).— It is impossible to say what is the cause of your Romneya shoots dying. It is characteristic of Romneya to do this, shoots on perfectly healthy plants withering in a few hours. This may be caused through some slight injury by wind, but it is very difflcull to account for it. In Dorsetshire Romneya Conlteri does not require the protection of a wall ; yon will find that it will form a handsome bush in the open ground. Anemones (.A. C. F.).—We recommend you to try the planting of fresh tubers, and, if these are not a success, seedlings are less likely to be so in the same soil. You do not say what the soil is, and the whole of your trouble may be in this solitary item. Try another position ; east is not the best, and a southern aspect would be better or one a little sheltered at noon. Dig the ground deeply, and add plenty of sand or grit if the soil is heavy. Do not plant the tubers before November. Frequently the earlier-planted roots, starting promptly into growth, are cut down by frost, and, if this is repeated, the subsequent growth is greatly weakened. The Nasturtiums usually transplant quite well If the work is taken in hand early, but these and the other annuals named are much better if planted where they are Intended to flower. TREES AND SHRUBS. Pruning BnoDLEiA (Mahd A. Oorden-DUl). Your plant of Baddleia globosa should be pruned well back at once, giving it at the same time a good top-dressina of well-rotted manure and a good watering. You may take cuttings of Choisya and Buddleia at once, selecting young shoots 4 inches long, and inserting them in pots of sandy soil in a close and shaded propagating frame. Your Choisya should be pruned without delay, so that the young shoots may have as long a growing season as possible. Strawberry, Rapp- berry, and Loganberry plants ought to give no great trouble. Plant them in a sunny position in ordinary garden soil such as will grow Raspberry canes in a satisfactory manner, and keep them watered until established. Probably your plants will not blossom until next year. To Increase Ivy (Hoe).— The best time to propagate Ivy is in the autumn by cuttings or by layers In the spring. In the autumn the shoot taken off a few Inches long and the bottom leaves removed and placed in sandy soil made firm win soon root. You may increase it by layers nearly all the year round. When rooted detach the shoots from the parent plant. Transplanting Berberis (IT. Tomlinson).—Aa the soil is light and sandy, the best time to transplant Berbeiis Darwinil will be in the autumn and early winter. If It la carried out In late winter and the first part of spring, the roots will not be sufficiently established to withstand the strain imposed on newly-moved shrubs by the dry harsh winds we often experience in March and April. Laeubnum Adami (A. ilf.).— The Laburnum concerning which you enquire is Laburnum (Cytlsus) Adami, the omission of the third form of flower In the note referred to being accidental. It Is In every way a very singular tree, which Is said to have originated In 1825 In the nursery cf D. Adam, at Vltry, near Paris. It resulted from a bud of the comparatively dwarf-growing Cytisus purpureus, which had been inserted Into a Laburnum, and In time flowers intermediate between the two were produced. The singular part Is that the same tree will bear flowers of the Laburnum, Cytisus purpureus, with Its tufted habit of growth, and the graft hybrid Adami, whose flowers are of a reddish bnfl. These characters cannot be depended upon to be developed every year, for occasionally one or other of the forms will be missing, though, as a rule, the tree bears all three kinds, bnt In varying proportions. plants are freely stopped when young they will form neat, bushy specimens that will flower well in pots of from 6 inches to 8 inches in diameter. A minimum winter temperature of 45° is as low as the Gardenia can safely endure, hence there is little likelihood of your plants thriving under the conditions you name. The Oleander {Ignoramus). — Oleanders being natives of Southern Europe and the Levant require the protection of a greenhouse in this country, eg., a temperature not less than 45° in winter. They are of a loose, open habit of growth, suggesting some of the Willows, hence any attempt to keep them neat and prim by the shortening back of the long wand-like shoots will curtail their flowering. If the plants need repotting the early spring is the best time to carry this out. For potting two parts loam to one part leaf-mould and a little sand are suitable. A light position in the greenhouse is best. Daring the summer the plants may be placed out of doors in a warm sunny spot, watering freely. Given a warm sheltered spot the flowers will often develop out of doors, but if the weather is wet and cold they expand better in the greenhouse. Give liquid manure once a fortnight in spring until the flowers open. In the particularly favoured parts of the South West of England the Oleander may be grown out of doors, in which case, when choosing the spot for planting, its moisture - loving qualities and the abundant sunshine experienced in its Mediterranean home should be borne in mind. Pelargoniums Diseased (Geranium). — Your Pelar- goniums are attacked by one of the leaf fungi whose ravages throughout the entire country are greatly on the increase. Plants that have been grown in a rather close atmosphere and are highly fed are prone to its attacks. Various remedies have been tried by different cultivators, the most successful being to snray the plants with a solution of potassium sulphide. This, popularly known as liver of sulphur, may be prepared by dissolving loz. in one quart of hot water and making it up to two and a-half gallons with cold water. With this syringe the plants, and repeat the process in about four days, after which leave an interval of a week between the applications, which may be discontinued when the plants are free. The pots should be laid on their sides so that the preparation does not enter the soil. Malmaison Carnations Failing (A F. T.).— Belworms may be the cause of your Malmaison Carnations going < ff In the way you describe, while If the plants are potted too deeply they are sometimes liable to die quite suddenly. If you have any reason to believe that the leaf-mould con- tains these pests it should on no account be used, though U the loam is of a very heavy nature something more than sand will bo needed to mix with it. Some cultivators prefer peat to leaf-mould, as It is far more free from Insect pests and fungi. If you can bake the leaf soil In some way, so that all Insect life is destroyed, It can then be safely used. Should the loam be of a fibrous nature and not too adhesive the leaf-mould may be dispensed with. There is another insect that might be the cause of the trouble, viz., the wireworm, which is really the larvse of the skipjack beetle. A sharp look-out should be kept for these when turning over any new soil Intended for potting. THE GREENHOUSE. To Grow Gardenias (H. P. Cnrew).— Gar- denias are propagated from cuttings of the half- ripened shoots taken in the spring, inserted into clean, well-drained pots filled with a compost made up of equal parts of loam, peat, and sand, and placed in a close propagating case in a tem- perature of 65° to 75". When rooted they must be potted off into a more holding compost, such as two parts loam to one part leaf-mould or peat, and half a part of sand. During the growing period they need a temperature of 60° to 80° and a liberal use of the syringe. If the young ROSE GARDEN. Roses Unsatisfactory (L. O. ). — There is evidently something wrong at the roots of your Roses. The two varieties you mention, Caroline Testout and Mme. Gabriel Luizet, should give you no difficulty, for they usually grow and flower quite freely. We are afraid that not very much can be done at this time of year beyond keeping the surface soil hoed frequently an dgiving an occasional application of some concentrated artificial manure, such as Clay's or guano. In the autumn, some time in October, your best plan will be to take up the plants and find out what is wrong with the soil, for it is evident that the mischief is there. It is quite possible that the soil is full of wireworms. These are about half-an-inch long, bright yellow, and with a tough skin ; they are easily recognised, and are frequently present in large numbers in fresh loam, especially that cut from the top of a pasture. If you find this to be the case, it will be a matter of some difficulty to get rid of them. If the beds are infested with this pest, we will advise you as to the best means of getting rid of 86 THE GARDEN. [July 21, 1906. it. It i8 Dot unlikely that the beds are ineflfec- tually drained, plants growing in water-logged soil have just the appearance you describe. In any case your only plan will be to dig up the plants and so determine the cause of the failure, and we think vou will find it to be due to one of the above. We will gladly advise you further in the au'umn. . Origin of the Name " TEA-srENTED" Rose {Fish).— Doubile&a the name arose from the Bimilarity of the fragrance of varieties of Kn?a indica to that of Tea, but by whom and when it was (?iven we are unable to say. Fly ON RosKS(J. M. Z>.)— The only pest ihat I could find on your K-iae leaves were several specimena of the common crreen-fly of the Rose (Sinhonophora ropa;), in the winpless and winged condition. The best remedy is spray- ing with some insecticide ; a solution of paraffin emulsion is, perhaps, the best and the cheapest, but if you do not require a large quantity, any of those on the market which contain a certain amount of soap would suit you.— G. S. S. FRUIT GARDEN. Pests on Peach Trees (TT^. ^.).— We expect your soil is very light or porous. This will in a measure account for the pest on your Peach trees. This year has been one of the worst ever known, and it seems almost impossible to cope with the enemy, but the weather during the early part of Miy is in a great measure answerable for the black-fly. This curls up in the tender leaf, and it is almost impossible to dislodge it. We have used Quassia in a soluble form late in the day ; if this is freely syringed so that all parts of the foliage are saturated, and the trees are gone over again the next evening with the Qaaesia, and then syringed or hosed daily, you will getrid of the pest. It is also well afterwards to go over the trees and remove all curled leaves or yellow foliage, burning them, and this will remove any remnants of the fly that may have escaped. You could for syringing purposes use such aids as Tobacco water or Gishurst. Both these are good if the Quassia is unobtainable, but it is important to get rid of the pest at once to get healthy foliage for another season. American Blight (^or).— This is one of the worst pests in the garden, and if allowed to go unchecked in a few seasons would kill your trees. Ic mostly aflfects the Apple. At this season you can only prevent it spreading. This can be done by syringing with soluble petroleum or by paint- ing over the parts aflFected with a brush — a slow process with large trees, and even then the work must be done every week till the early autumn. When the foliage drops is the time to set to work. With young trees it is well to paint the bark in the winter ; with larger trees to syringe frequently with the petroleum. Another excel- lent winter dressing is Gishurst Compound ; this if well rubbed in will cure without harming the trees. Another dressing is made of lib. of soft soap to half a pint of paraffin ; this should be made to the consistency of paint, adding suffi- cient tepid rain water to effect this. Whatever is done must be done thoroughly, and the earlier in the winter the better. If left alone it will cause the trees to canker and become bare, un- sightly objects. At this season you may assist the trees by frequently syringing late in the day. Fkuit of Rubds NUTKANUS(Bas(07i).— The fruit of this is edible, but whether it is good is largely a matter of opinion. Certainly it cannot for one moment compare with its near relative the Blackberry. Currants Buksting {Black Currant).— It is evident that your Currants are not attacked by any insect or fungus; the bursting of the fruit is probably caused by irregularity in their growth, there has been a lack of moisture at the roots, or possibly too much, which has caused the pulp of the fruit to grow faster than the skins. A good authority suggested to me that probably a good watering would set matters riaht.— G. S. S. Peach Lea\t:s Scorched {A. H. S. B.).—We think the cause of the leaves of your Peach tree being gffected aa they are is due to their having been scorched by the sun when moist, and their falling may be partly due to the trees having suffered from drought at the roots. To prevent the leaves being scorched a little air should be left on the top venti- lators of the house all night during the warm summer weather, or if this is not feasible owing to cold or other circumstances, theu a little air should be given quite early in the morning before the sun shlces on the leaves, for the latter are then moist ; the air dispels the moiatare and so prevents scorching. As far as we could judge from the leaves sent, the trees are not suffering from the shot- hole fungus, and are not likely to suffer any permanent injury. If the roots have been suffering at all from dry- ness at the roots, a thorough soaking will do much good. Figs Falling (T. J^.).— Figs frequently drop their fruits through being kept in too close or moist an atmosphere during the later stages of growth, an.i also from being kept too warm at night and given insufficient ventilation. AUowirg the growths to become crowded would aggravate the evil. Ic often happens that the fruits of Negro Largo fall if they are not perfectly formed. You would do well to ventilate more freely, and give a slight shade to prevent Bcoichi'ig. Strawberries Failing {A. W. B.).— The Strawberry foliage sent shows signs of good culture up to the period of the fruits swelling, then, as you note, they collapse. We think there is something wrong at the roots. Your land must be at fault. Have you wireworm? This ia & terrible pest in some soils, and worse just before the crop matures. You will soon find out by lifting a few plants. Your remedy will be to plant on land thoroughly limed in the autumn and which has not carried the same crop for Bome time. With forced plants many use top-spit turf from meadowland, and this is often full of wire- worm. You know that using too strong insecticides often destroys instead of assistine root growth. Cherry Trees Unsatisfactory (E. G. L ).— Your Cherry trees are most probably suffering from drought, as, thuugh they are very Impatient of anything approach- ing stagnation at the root, they require copious supplies of water during dry weather. There has, however, been a succession of spring frosts during the last few years which may have had a great deal to do with the non-productive- ness of your trees. The Cherry does not require root- pruning iu the same way as an Apple or Pear, and usually rights Itself in a year or two if it happens to run more to wood than fruit, while overhead pruning should be done as little aa possible. Pigs would have little effect either way on the orchard. We should advise plenty of water during dry weather, with an occasional dose of sewage water or liquid manure, the latter to be applied when the ground is fairly moist. The best and cheapest fence for pigs is the split Chestnut fencing supplied by the Economic Fencing Company, Bllllter House, Billiter Street, London, EC. MISCELLANEOUS. Application for the Parks (C. C. E., Finchley).— Apply to Chief Officer, Parks Department, London County Council, 11, Regent Street, London, S.W. Laying out Garhens {Qen. Thomson).— li\^ very difficult to advise you without a plan. It Is always best to have advice on the spot, and we will help you to this end if you desire It. We wish readers who are In difficulties about the laying out of their gardens- would consult us. We would gladly help them. Nail Galls (IT. Turner).— The curious excrescences on the Lime leaf you sent are commonly known by the name of *'Nail Galls" on their supposed resemblance to nails sticking Into the leaf. They are formed by very small mites (Eriophes tilire). They are very common, but do not occur in sufficient numbers to Injure the trees they Infest, at least I never heard of an inatance.— G. S. S. Aphides on Curranti {Miss Dodds).—We could find nothing the matter with the leaves of the Gooseberry or Currant which you sent except that they were badly attacked by aphides or fly. You could easily get rid of these by syringing with a solution made from quassia chips, or by using one of the many Insecticides advertised for this purpose, as for Instance Bitter oil, Fir tree oil, Bentley's, and others. Destroying Ants {Wentworth).— When once ants have got such a hold as you describe, a good denl of persistency is necessary in order to destroy them. Where the nests can be got at without injury to the plants, boiling water will destroy not only all the insects It touches, but also all the larvae thereof. Carbolic acid diluted with about twelve times Its bulk of water will also prove fatal to them. They may be often trapped by taking an empty flower-pot, stopping up the hole at the bottom, and partially filling it with dry leaves. This must then be placed in an Inverted position close to their neata, and If these are at all damp and unpleasant they will often desert them for the dry, snug interior of the flower-pot. Large numbers can be destroyed by laying bones that have not been picked very clean or pieces of coarse sponge dipped In treacle near their haunts. A mixture of treacle and arsenic is also sometimes effectual, while Yal'sBeetlecute, often referred to in The Garden, Is recommended by many. Fly on Cauliflowers {Cathcart).— The roots of your Cauliflowers are attacked by the grubs of a small fly somewhat resembling a common house fly in miniature. There are two species, the grubs of which are so alike that it is impossible to distinguish between them ; they commonly go by the name of the Cabbage fly. The two species are Anthomyla radlcum and A. brassicic. The best means of destroying this insect is by going over the beds and taking out with a trowel or spud any of the plants which appear to be infested ; they may generally be known by their flagging in the middle of the day and by their leaves turning a somewhat leaden colour. They should be taken up so as not to leave any of the grubs In the soil, and be at once put into a basket or box from which they are not likely to fall out, and when full emptied on to a flre, not on to the rubbish heap. A handful of fresh lime or gas-lime should be placed In the hole caused by removing the plant, to kill any of the grubs which by chance might have been left behind. Watering with one part of ammoniacal liquor from the gasworks to two parta of water, or lime water, are recommended. Three or four waterings should be given.— G. S. S. Book about Vegetables (3Iifs L. T.).— Write to John Lane, Bodley Head, London, and ask for Mr. Beckett's book on vegetables, price 2^. 9d., post free. Names of Plants— 3f. iJ — 1. Galega cfficinalia; 2, Achillea Millefolium rosea; 3, Erigerun phitadelphicus ; 4, Anchusa Italica ; 5, Potentilla argyropbylla var. atro- sanguinea fl.-pl. ; 6, Campanula persicifolia alba. Frank J'o7ies.— Cistus ladaniferus, Increased by cuttings in spring or autumn, also by seeds in spring. A. L. i/.— Geranium sangulneum and Pelargonium denlicnlatura. C. Prentis. — Pentstemon diffusus. D. L. IT.— Malva moschata ; cannot name shrub from specimen enclosed, but is probably Viburnum Opulus. H. G. Peacock. —I, Raphlolepis japonica ; 2, Mngnolla acuminata; 3, Carpenteria cali- fornica ; 4, CoUetia splnoaa ; 5, Pernettya mucmnata ; 6, Styrax japonica; 7, Sisyrinchlum graminifolium ; 8, Pudocarpus chinensis ; 9, Genista a;t:nenais ; 10, Orymys Winteri ; 11, Abutilon vltifolium ; 12, Ilex dipyrena. Bridget Pengelly.—l, Tradescantia virginiana ; 2, Lyclum chinenae ; 3, Prunus lusltanica (Portugal Liurel) ; 4, Erigeron macranthus ; 5, Kosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary) ; 6, Orchis maculata (pale variety). Fish. — 1, Fraxinus excelsior var. (poor specimen) ; 2. Pentstemon humilis. 5, G. i?.— Gentiana Waltoni F. C.—l, Asplenlum Belan- geri ; 2, Adiantura sp. ; 3, A. trapezlforme ; 4, A. veitchl- anum ; 5, A. fasciculatum ; 6, A. cuneatum grandlceps ; 7, Capillus-Veneris imbric«tum; 8, Blechnum occidentale; 9, B. cuneatum. A. N. Billesby.—\, Achillea Fillpendula fl,-pl. ; 2, Cimicifuga racemosa ; 3, Dianthus deltoides ; 4, Campanula alliarifefolia ; 5, Anchusa sempervlrens ; 6, Chelidonlura raajua. W. 5.— Lysimachia vulgaris. G. C Lipptnco/t.—Centranthus ruber and Lillumsuperbum. T. W. P.— Rose Duke of Edinburgh. A. K. Car- narvon.— The Ro96 ia Miniature Provence de Meaux and the other flower Muscari comoaum monstrosum. C. Green.— {Kmeei) l.Etendardde Jeanne d'Arc; 2. Captain Christy. H. G. C -(Roses) 1, Souv. de Wm. Robinson; 2 Devoniensis ; 3, Souv. d'Ami. Puzzled.— \, Dr. Grill ; 2, Camoens; 3, Sunset; 4, Etoile deLyon ; 5, PapaGontier; 6, Mme. Hoste ; 7, President ; 8, Sombrieul ; 9, Caroline Testout ; 10, Pauline Libonte ; 11, Mme. L. Laurens ; 12, Hon. Edith Gifford. T. W. B— Campanula glomerata. Mrs. S. — Iris sibirica.Lilinmdauricum, and Tragopogon porrlfolius. G. F. P. — Escallonia exoniensis, Dictamnus albus variety purpureus, and Spiiaia arguta. Neiv Subseriber.—l, hychnia coronaria; 2. Centranthua ruber; 3, HemerocalHs fulva (Day Lily) ; 4, Veronica angustifolla. H . E. M 'D. — Arenaria peploides, Ery thra?a Centaurlum (pale variety), Sednm Acre (yellow), and S. dasyphyllum (white). H Cook.—l, Asclepias carassavlca; 2, Clstus ladauiferus ; 3, Sedum rupestre ; 4, S. sexangulare ; 5, Veronica incana ; 6, Thymus Serpyllum var. albua. Hartest. — Llbertla formosa. Cary. — 1, Cotoneaster bacillaria; 2, Berberisvulgaiia; 3, Adiantum neoguineense ; 4, A. Pacotii ; 5, Bunhinia sp. ; 0, Ceanothus divaricatus. M. Martin Leake. — Resembles Lotus Jocobajus, but cannot be certain without flowers. L. H. Evans. — Geranium cinereum. Red Lily.—LiUnm dauricnm.-- — F. Dayes. — Trachelospermum jisminoldea. D Culross. — Quercis Cerris variegatus nnd Acermacrophylla. Mrs. Loifan. — Callirehoe involucrata. Curious. — Cuscuta epilthymum, belongs to the Convolvulus order, and ts a parasite on Furze, Thyme, Liog, Ac. Ballater. — The Jew's Mallow (Kerria japonica fl.-pl.). A. T. King. — (Roses) 1, Abel Carrifere; 2 Dr.Sewell; 3,AugusteRtgotard; 4, Camille Bernardin ; 5, H. Schultheis. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. JULY. HOW TO BUD KOSES. A First Pfue of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second PfU« of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Pme of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourtli Prfie of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best essays on " How to Bud Roses." Practical information clearly stated is desired. The essay should be accompanied by a few sketches to show how the work is performed. The remarks (limited to 1.500 words) must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked " Competition," addressed to "The Editor of The Gabden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than July 31. Both amateur and professional gar- deners may compete ; it is hoped, however, that those who contribute regularly to the pages of Thb Garden will not do so. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS., and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors. Supplement to THE GARDEN, July 21st, 1906. REHMANNIA ANGULATA PINK PERFECTION. r^- GARDEN, ? 5=3^r'fi«r :^^^^^tzii No. 1810.— Vol. LXX. July 28, ><■>' 6. BARBERRIES (BERBERIS). WHILE the total number of species of Berberis in cultivation is now about forty, it may safely be said that one - fourth of these are all that are needed adequately to repre- sent the genus in an ordinary garden. To those who have only a limited space at command I would recommend the following ten sorts : jE'vergrreeJi.— Aquifolium (W. N. America), Darwinii (Chili), japonica (China and Japan), stenophyila (hybrid), and wallichiana (Hima- laya and China). Deciduous — Aristata (Himalaya), buxi- folia (Chill), sinensis (China), Thunbergi (Japan), and vulgaris (Europe and North Asia). Several of these, of course, are quite common, and none can be described as rare. Of the evergreen Barberries there is not the least doubt but that the most valuable one is B. stenophyila. As is now well known, this is a hybrid raised in the famous Hands- worth Nurseries, near Sheffield, I suppose forty or fifty years ago. Its parents are B. Darwinii and B. empetrifolia. To my mind it represents one of the greatest achievements of the hybridist, for it is not only very different from both its parents, but as a garden plant it is a great improvement on both. It flowers in late April and early May, produc- ing long arching wands of pendulous yellow blossom. It is a beautiful plant for a lawn ; it also makes a magnificent mass on a sloping bank, and it may be made to form a charm- ing hedge, as in Mr. B. E. C Chambers's garden near Haslemere, in this case pruning it back every spring when the flowers are past. Darwin's Barberry is also a valuable and beautiful shrub. It is from this species that B. stenophyila gets its flower beauty (its graceful pendulous shoots are due to the influence of B. empetrifolia). B. Darwinii has a sturdy, rather stiff habit, and should be given a sheltered spot to enable it to show its full beauty. In mild localities it will grow 10 feet or so high, and when in bloom its wealth of golden yellow flowers, contrast- ing with the dark green shining- leaves make a singularly attractive picture. In cold exposed positions it is apt to become stunted and bare. WallicVs Barberry is a shrub of tufted habit, producing a dense cluster of upright shoots 2 feet to 4 feet high. Its neat habit and rich dark green foliage render it useful in places where a moderately low ground covering is desired. It makes an attractive group also on a lawn or at the front of a shrubbery. It is a rather variable plant, one form having the under surface of the leaves blue-white. What is known in gardens as B. Knightii is a fine, robust, large-leaved variety of this species. Both the two remaining evergreen species mentioned belong to the Mahoniaor pinnate- leaved section of the Barberries. The well- known Western North American species — B. Aquifolium — is one of the most valuable shrubs ever introduced. It is, perhaT'S, the best covering one can ^et for shaded posi- rtons under trees. It will not thrive under Beech, but under Oak or Elm or trees of similar density it grows well when once established. It flowers in March and April, and its erect, densely-flowered spikes are followed by clusters of handsome purple fruit. B. japonica (or Bealei) requires a warm, sheltered spot. It is the least hardy of those here mentioned, but is a striking shrub when seen in good condition. It is remarkable for the hard, leathery texture of its leaves, which are often considerably over 1 foot long, with about nine leaflets. It flowers early — often in February — producing a cluster of racemes at the end of each shoot. These racemes are 4 inches to 6 inches long, and thickly set with rich yellow blossoms. This species is to be seen in exceptionally fine condition in the gardens about Falmuuth. Turning to the deciduous specie."!, one finds that, although there are several valuable shrubs among them, they do not occupy quite so high a place among their class as tne evergreen ones do in theirs. It is doubtful if any species among them is more beautiful than the Common Barberry (B. vulgaris) seen in its best forms. It is found wild over a con- siderable part of the temperate regions of the Old World, and varies a good deal. But its long strings of pendulous racemes hanging from beneath the branches are always very attractive during May, and the shrub is scarcely less so in early autumn, when the flowers have been succeeded by the coral-red fruits. There are varieties also with red and black fruits. The most noteworthy of all its varieties, however, is the purple-leaved Barberry, one of the very best shruos of this colour that we possess. It is particularly ornamental during May and early June, when the leaves are beautifully tinged with red, and before they have acquired the uniform purple colour that comes later in the season. In the same section is the Chinese Barberry (B. sinensis), rather like B. vulgaris in general character, but dwarfer and denser in habit. It produces a remark- able profusion of pendulous yellow racemes about the middle of May. This shrub may be grown in places where the common Barb'-rry would be too big. B. Thunbergi is a still dwarfer species of close very compact habit. Its flowers are not very attractive, but they are succeeded by charmingly-coloured red fruits, and the foliage also turns a beautiful red in autumn. B. buxifolia (or dulcis) is the earliest of these deciduous species to flower, and is usually at its best in mid-April. Throughout some winters it retains a portion of its leaves, which are small and without teeth. It is a pretty shrub when in bloom and worth growing for its earliness. B. aristata is a Himalayan species which has been unduly neglected. A well and fully -grown plant is probably the most imposing of all the Barberries. Such a specimen will be 10 feet high, and 15 feet or more in width Its leaves are of a fine deep green, and among the largest of the deciduous species. The deep yellow flowers, too, are borne in longer racemes than usual. It is particularly to be recommended as a lawn shrub, with plenty of space for its develop- ment all round. W. J. Bban. A SWEET PEA FARM. Not many years ago it would have been impos- sible to write of a Sweet Pea farm without laying one's self open tothe chargeof using anextravagant term ; bat so rapid has been the progre«'8 in the development of the Stveet Pea, and so complete is its popularity, that to-day such a title savours act of extravagance, but passes simply as a state- ment of fact. From the few mixed colours aud ■imall flowers, with which everyone was content, a marvellous galaxy of varieties, increased in size and substance of petal, improved in form of flower, and beautified by the introduciion of rich and varied shades of colouring quite new amDng Sweet Peas has been evolved by the labnurs of the hybridist and the careful selector. F )r the inception, and iu a large measure the continuance, of this work, which has given to the garden-loving public varieties of a favourite fl jwer such as were beyond all expectations, it is not too much to say that we are largely indebted to the firm of Henry Eokford.whoseheadquarters is at the pleasant old- world villagR of Warn in Shropshire. When one sees, as at Wem, some ten acres of Sweet Peas, grown only for the purpose of selecting the stocks, so as to keep them true and pure, one realises what a valuable part the Sweet Pea plays in the ga-dens of the British Isles. The seeds for sale are grown in bulk elsewhere. And what a lovely sight it is to see ten acres planted with all that is best and brightest among the Sweet P^a as we know it to-d6.y. All are in rows, some 100 yards long, and each variety is kept to itself ; there may he two or three or four rows of one sort together. 0 le thus gets an admirable idea of the compara- tive value of each sort. Tne Sweet Pea is a sweet-scented annual, and the flowers of ten acres of plants fill the air with a fragrance that is pecu- liarly their own. Some of thb Bbst Sweet Peas. Some sorts there are which stand out distinct from their fellows. At the first glance you realise their value ; the colour is true and distinct, and the habit of the plant vigorous and 38 THE GAEDEN. [July 28, 1906. bold. For inetance, among so very many thousands the eye at once rests upon the rows of the new scarlet Q leen Alexandra, the nearest approach to true scarlet yet to be found amonj; Sweet Peas. It is a purer colour than Scarlet Gem ; the flowers possesn the great advantage of not " burning" in the sun, as so many of the red varieties aLd those of so called orange shades are prone to d.-). To give high praise to Qieen Alexandra, however, is not to disparage Scarlet Gem, which was a great advance in colour on existing varieties, and is litt'e inferior to the former. The variety Henry Eokfoid, however, is the greatest of the many triumphs of this famous firm of Sweet Paa growers. It has received a first-class certificate and silver medal from the National Sweet Pea Society and an sward of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society — hall-marks which stamp it as a Sweet Pea of the highest merit. Accurately to describe its colour seems to be a matter of great difficulty, judging by the many and widely differing de- scriptions which have been given. In most of the descriptions orange has been given as the pre- vailing colour, though we think apricot would bi" much nearer the mark. However much ideas may diffHr as to the correct colouring of this Sweet Pea, there can be no two opinions as to its value. It is totally distinct from anything eloe, and quite a new colour break among Siveet Peas. Ir, was remarkable at the recent exhibition of the Nitional Sweet lea Society at the Royal Horticultural Hill how very eisily one coulil pick out this variety from the di z»ns of others even at a glance. Its charming shade of colour is so unlike that of any other that one could no' fail to distinguish it even from a distance, and this is more than can be said for a great many of the newer varieties. King E Iward VII. has firmly established itself as the finest of red shades of colour ; it is verv showy, with flowers twice as large as those of Salopian, although the flowers of the latter are of a similar shade of colouring. S ilopian is a very fine Sweet Pea for ordinary garden pur- poses, the c ilour is warm and rich, and the flowers are produced in great abundance. Cncrinea, too, is a favourite variety, its rose- red flowers are very freely borne. Prince Edward of York is a very beautiful Sweet Pea that has been somewhat neglected of late, although very undeservedly. It made a grand show in Mr. Eckford'a trial grounds ; the flowers are large and well displayed, the standard being light red snd'the wings magenta. Oae of the newer Sweet Peas which will undoubtedly make a name for itself when better known, » flower of rich indigo blue colouring is Horace Wright. A very h»auiiful variety , also quitenew, is ore called Agnes Eckford , with large blush-coloured flowers. For those who like bi-coloured flowers. Little Dorrit, with rose- coloured standard and cream wings, can be strongly recommended ; it is very distinct and showy. Among the new varieties at Eckford'a, which are not yet sent out, none charmed us more than Qaeen of Spain, a variety which was finely shown by Mr. Eckford at the recent Sweet Pea Show. The flower is not so large as some, but the colour association is very pleasing, and the flowers are most freely produced. The buds are fawn coloured, while the open flower is tinged with pink. It would be useless to attempt to enumerate all the good things that are to be seen among the thousands and thousands of plants in the Wem trial grounds. To give some idea of the extent of the work of selection and hybridisa- tion, which is carefully and syatematiciUy carried out here, we may mention that some three or four acres are planted with unnamed seedlings alone. There are some magnificent varieties among these, needless to say, although the great msjority of them, welcome as they would be in any ordinary garden, will be sacrificed, because they do not fulfil, in some way or other, the ideal which Mr. Eckford ever keeps in mind. Many of these seedlings bad unusually large flowers, and it is not improbable that in the near future a new grandiflora type of Sweet Pea will be on the market. Hints on Cultivation. In the culiivalion of Sweet Peas one is usually advieed to sow the seeds towards the end of Mirch out of doors ; of course, if one is able to eow them in pots under glass earlier in the year, and so obtain good plants for planting out by early April, so much the better, but then, comparatively few are able to do this. We were very interested to learn that the seeds in Mr. Ejkford's trial grounds were sown in the middle of February, and Mr. Eokford strongly advises this where it is practicable. In emUl gardens, and especially those near towns, the sparrows might be a worse nuisance than ever if one had the plants through the soil in the month of March, but there is no doubt that if they can be protected from birds, sowing the seeds in mid-February is strongly to be recommended. The plants then beccm'* well rooted before much (.op growth is made, and so have every chance t.f making a better growth before flowering time By sowing early a much stronger plant is obtained, and it is the vigorous plants, of course, that always flower the best. 0 le word as to the iirpirtance of thinning out. In spite of all the teochings and recommendations as to the importauce of thinning out Sweet Pea seedlings, few amateur gardeners do so ; yet, were they only to see the difference between plants left, sav, 6 inches apart, and those perhaps less than 2 inches, they would rec ignise that thinning out was well worth while, providing, of course, that the ground had been properly prepared beforehand. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. July 30. — Hybridisation and Cross-breeding C onferenf-e, 9 p.m. to 10 30 p.m., Royal Horti- cultural Hill. July 31 — Royal Horticultural Society, Exhi- bition of Flowers and Fruit. Conference con- tinued. Horticultural Club, Dinner to the B'ifish and Foreign D-legates to the Conference, 6 30 p m.. Hotel Windsor. Aueuet 1 — Conference continued. Chesterfield and Bishop's Scnrtford Flower Shows. August 2 — Binquet in the Great Hall in honour of the foreign delegates to the Conference. August 6 —Wells, Ilkeston, Prescot, Lichfield, Aiherstone, Grantham, and Haddington Flower Shows. August 8.— Dublin Flower Show. August 14. — Royal Horticultural Society's Meeting. Rose exhibitor's pemarlcable success. — At. the recent show al UiV'-rotou of the N irth Lon'dale Rose Society, Messrs. Alex. D ckson and Sons, Limited, Newtownards, County Down, entered in the fourteen open classes for Roses, and won the first prizu in thirteen of them. They were first for seventy -two blooms distinct, sixteen trebles distinct, thirty -six blooms distinct, twelve Teas distinct, twelve blooms of any light R jse, twelve blooms of any dark Rose, twelve nlooms of any Tea, and for twelve new Roses distinct. They also had the best Rose in the show, the best Hybrid Perpetual, Hybrid Tea, Tea, and seedling ; in fact, with one exception they won all the first prizes offered in the open classes for Roses. Tlie Royal Botanic Society.— We have received a circular signed by Messrs. W Birker, John Coode Adams, Cecil Rileigh, and J. S Rubinstein with reference to the position of the Royal Botanic Society. In the circular oooura the following paragraph : " The reformers among I he Fellows feel that a really serious attempt must be made to put an end once and for all to the present unsatisfactory reyme, and for the first time in the history of thes'Cieiy the council's nominees for the council will be i pposed at the annual meeting, to be held on August 10 next at one o'clock. Tne reformers are absolutely con- fident that our present difficulties are due, and due solely, to want of pn par management, and that with a diff-rent council, an enlightened and progressive policy, our society can within the limits defiaed by our charter be made highly prosperous. They have, therefore, recommended the removal of five members of the council and the election of six Fellows pledged to reform. The votes of the Fellows who personally attend the meeting on August 10 next will alone count. The date, which is a most inconvenient one, was fixed by the charter some sixtj'-seven years back, and it is one of our many grievances I bat the council have never attempted to have the date altered." MP. T. G. Baker, J.P.-Mr. T. G. B >ker, head of the firm of Messrs. Bikers, L'mited, nurserymen and seedsmen, Wolver- hampton, has been appointed a Justice of the Peace for the Borough of Wolverhampton. National Sweet Pea Society.— Some fifty meimbora of this society and their friends recently visited the trial grounds of Messrs. Sutton and Sons at Reading. Messrs. Sutton bad a magnificent- lot of Sweet Peas to show their visitors, comprising the best of the newer sorts as well as most of the older ones. A new variety called Q teen of the Pinks, of rich salmon pink colouring, was much admired. Messrs. Sutton entertained the company to lunch, and afterwards a visit was made to the Nitional Sweet Pea S iciety's trials in University College Gardens. The plants had been remarkably well grown by Mr Foster, and the members had an opportunity of seeing varieties of similar colouring aide by side and of fiading out those which are practicallv identical. Tea was taken at the college. We understand that the society's trials will be held here again next year. Primula kewenslS.— The occurrence of thrum-eyed Uowerson piu-eyed plants of Primula kewen'is, as described in The Garden, June 30, page 340 would be a phenomenon of such extra- ordinary interest that I atked Messrs. Veitch and Sods to let me examine specimens, and they have most kindly sent me a number of in- florescences. In appearance the flowers differ a good deal, some having no anthers visible from the outside, while in others the ends of the anthers project above the stigma. Such flowers might easily be taken for thrum-eyed flowers. Cireful examination, however, shows that all ibe flowers are in reality of the long-styled or pin-eyed type. In all cases the stamens arise from the point where the corolla tube is con- stricted, and the styles are all of full length. The only difference is in the p'oportional length of the staminal filament°, and when these are slightly longer than usual the anthers are pro- jecting, or "exsert" as it is sometimes called. In a section Mrs Horace Darwin and Victorine are good forms, though the flowers are rather small. Mention should be made of the magnificent Iris asiatica, a plant of great vigour and easily grown. It has clear light blue standards and deep blue falls. The flower is full sized and of most telling effect in the garden. My idea at present of the twelve best in the several sections is as follows : Dalmatica Princess Beatrice, Albert Victor, Junonia, Asiatica, pallida dalmatica, Jacquiniana, Maori King, Black Prince, Qaeen of May, Mme. Chereau, Mrs. H. Darwin, and variegata aurea. Will readers please criticise this list. The Elms, Kidderminster. A. R. Goodwin. .y\j.^^ssi THE NEW ANTIBBHINUM OOTTAOB MAID. THE COMMON SNAPDRAGON AND ITS VAKIETIES. Few plants vary more than the common Snap- dragon (Antirrhinum majus), which is frequently found growing on old walls in this country, and for beautiful colouring few flowers can match this popular race of garden plants. By sowing at intervals they may be had in flower for the whole of the season, from early summer to late autumn, and ! they are greatly appreciated in flower-beds and ! borders where masses are most effective. For [ pot culture also the dwarfer sorts are sometimes used with advantage, as they are neat in growth I and last in good condition for a considerable time. I The many varieties of Snapdragon in cultivation j fall naturally into three groups — tall, medium, and dwarf, according to the height they attain. The taller ones reach a height of about 2 feet, and sometime more in rich soil, while the medium varieties average 1 foot or 15 inches. Although shorter in stature the flowers are quite as large as those on the taller plants. In the dwarf section the stems are fhort and the flowers are thickly crowded together in short racemes, some- times not more than 6 inches in height altogether. The various sorts when grown together hybridise very freely, and seeds saved under these condi- tions produce flowers with great variety of form and colour. By selection, however, a number of fixed varieties have been obtained which come true to colour to a certain extent. It is thus possible to obtain them in their separate colours, and grown in this way they are most charming and tfifactive. The named varieties are in- numerable, but the following are some of the best : Tall Varieties (Growing about 2 feet High). Queen Victoria. — A beautiful giant Snapdragon, bearing flowers of large size, white shaded cream, with lemon-eolourei lip. Crimson King —Rich dark velvety crimson flowers, with dark foliage and stems. Oloriosa — Very showy, deep cherry-coloured flowers, with white throat. Rose Queen —Large flowers of a delicate shell rose- pink, with a white and primrose lip. Firefly. — Bright yellow, bronzy crimson, and white. Mikado. — Crimson and carmine striped on a yellow ground. tinowflake — Pure white. Vidcan — Dirk velvety blood red, dark stems. Yellow King — A fine yellow. Cottage- Maid. — A lovely flower, soft pink and yellow. Snown recently by Messrs. Dobbie and Co., Rothes%y, and given an award of merit by the Royal Horticultural Society. Medium Varieties (about 1 foot High). Queen of the North.— Formiog symmetrical bushes covered with large white flowers well above the foliage. Black Prince. — Very handsome, with purplish foliage and stems, and dark velvety crimson flowers. Scarlet King. — With flowers varying in colour from velvety blood red to dark scarlet. White Queen — Charming little bushes with snowy white flowers and cinary-coloured lip. Yellow Qiieen.— With large, soft primrose and canary yellow flowers. In addition to these there are bright scarlet, orange scarlet, delicate rose, and many other shades. Dwarf Vabietifs (Growing from 6 inches to 9 INCHES High). Showy plants for pots, front of borders, edgings, &o. White Oem. — A beautiful little bushy plant, covered with snowy white flowers. One of the choicest of the dwarf section in which the following colours also may be obtained : Dirk velvety blood red, brilliant carmine, yellow shaded primrose, pure white, and many other shades. tJLY 28, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 41 Cultivation. These plants are of easy cultivation, the most suitable soil being a light, rich sandy one. Seeds may be sown at various limes throughout the spring and summer months. When the seed is raised in heat in March and the seedlings are pricked off into boxes and grown on till they are large enough to plant out in May, they will bloom profusely during the summer and well into the autumn. The seeds may be also sown outside on a warm border in March or April. These seed- lings should be transplanted as soon as they are sufficiently developed, and afterwards planted out where they are to stand as soon as the flowers begin to appear. For flowering in the following early summer seeds may be sown in July or August, either where they are to flower or in a seed-bed, transplanting in early spring. By means of successive sowings it is possible to obtain an almost uninterrupted display of bloom from June until the frost comes. Snapdragons may also be propagated by cuttings during the summer and autumn, inserted in sandy soil under a hand-light or in a close frame. As soon as they are rooted they may be planted out in a cold frame on a prepared bed, or even outside on a warm, sheltered border. Perfect drainage is essential to these plants, and they are never so happy as when growing naturally on a loose crumbling old brick wall. ERYSIMUM PEKOFSKIANUM. This is a well known annual, which, if sown thinly, mostly survives to a second year, and flowers in April and May. The bright orange- coloured head" are very showy. It is like a small Orange Wallflower. Highgate. T. J. Weaver. TREES AND SHRUBS. VERONICA HULKEANA. UNDOUBTEDLY this is the most beautiful of the New Zealand shrubby Veronicas. A large plant presents a lovely sight in the middle of May. Here a fine specimen, trained against a south-west wall, nearly 6 feet in height and over 7 feet across, was with its branching flower-shoots — many of them over 2 feet in length — a cloud of pale lavender. Old plants have an unsatisfactory pre- disposition to die off suddenly without apparent cause, and when a plant flowers profusely it is well to cut the flowering shoots when they reach perfection, in order to conserve the strength of the shrub. The character for tenderness that it has acquired is doubtless due to this liability to sudden failure, as I have known it uninjured when other shrubby Veronicas have been injured by the frost. It i3 easly raised from cuttings taken off with a heel in ihe autumn. Kingswear. 8. W. Fitzhehbekt. ANOPTERIS GLANDULOSA. This beautiful Tasmanian shrub is rarely met with in gardens, but is certainly one of the loveliest of spring - flowering subjects. Its cupped flowers somewhat resemble those of the Lily of the Valley Tree (Clethra arborea), which are produced in August, but are far larger, being from half an inch lo three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and are very waxy and of great con- sistence. In colour they are ivory white, and borne on erect terminal racemes. The greatest objection to the Aaopteris is its slowness of growth, as even tiny plants a few inches in height often bear from six to a dozen flower-racemes, and for years scarcely increase appreciably in siz3. It is difficult to raise from cuttings, and seeds often fail to germinate. At first sight, when in flower, it would appear to be allied to the Fleris or Andromeda family, but is really a member of the Saxi- frage order. InTresco Abbey Gardens Mr. Dorrien - Smith has a splendid specimen, about 10 feet in height and as much through, which in March is white with flower. S. W. F. SUTHERL4NDIA FRUTESCENS. This handsome South African shrub, known as the Cape Bladder Senna, has been a brilliant object for the past month, being entirely covered with its drooping scarlet flowers, which are about IJ inches in length and are carried in racemes holding from seven to ten blooms. The colour of the flowers and the pinnate foliage give it at first sight a re- semblance to Clian- thus puoiceus. The blossoms are followed by bladder-like seed- vessels. It appears to be fairly hardy, as a plant here about 3 feet in height and of the same diameter has passed through the winter unpro- tected in the open. It is easily raised from seed, and will flower in a year from seed-sowing. S. W. Fitzhkrbert. THE NEW BOBE DEAN HOLE. M exhibit. As seen on both occasions the flowers were of good form, size, substance, and purity, and Mr. George Paul was good enough to inform me that its behaviour under glass was such that he considered it surpassed Niphetos. In the open the flowers are white tinted with lemon, but under glass they lose this colour and become pure white. As a standard out of doors this j Rose is seen to advantage because the flowers Y experience is that this Rose has are of drooping habit, a habit which renders THE ROSE GARDEN. HYBRID TEA EOSE DEAN HOLE. I a future before it, and the accompanying illustration of it growing in Messrs. Harkness and Sons' grounds at Hitchin shows its general character. The growth is strong, at least it is with me, and the flower is of beautiful form, high centred, and the colour of a carmine shade, with a suspicion of salmon. It is flowering freely with me on a dry hilltop, and has received no special attention. E. JOTTINGS ABOUT ROSES. Tea Rose Elisa Fugieb — On page 311 (Vol. LXIX ), under the heading of '< White Mar^ohal Niel," it is stated that " unquestion- ably Niphetos is still our bast pure white indoor Rose." While I do not wish to deny this asser- tion, I should like to draw the attention of all those who grow Tea Roses under glass to the merits of a little known variety, which was dis- tributed by Bjunaire in 1S91, under the name which heads this note. To many it would seem, perhaps, difficult to improve upon Niphetos under glass, but this variety, which is a seedling from it, has certainly proved superior. No doubt those rosarians who have visited the last two Royal Horticultural Society Temple Shows will have noticed a fine standard plant of Elisa Fngier in Messrs. Paul and Son's (Cheshunt) Niphetos quite useless as a dwarf for cultivation outside. Elisa Fngier will be found included in most English Rose lists, and should be given a trial. NoBLLA Nabonnand (Hybrid Tea). — This is a ' ' great " Rose in every way, and one that has given me much pleasure for several years. Bat this season it has really surpassed itself in beauty, and its effect in the garden has been gorgeous. What a poor thing the much-vaunted Crimson Rambler is beside such a Rose as this with its large, scented, rich rosy crimson, semi-double blossoms with their gracefully recurving petals ! It is a great pity that such a grand hardy climber should be little known to the ordinary public, but then it takes a long time before the merits of a Rose become generally known. A cross between Reine Marie Henriette and Bardou Job it far excels both parents in my estimation. In com- parison with the first-named it is far brighter in colouring, and does not fade to an ugly tint when fully expanded as does this variety, also it has better foliage and is not addicted to mildew. That the glowing crimson Birdou Job was one of the parents is easily discernible because some of its rich colouring has been imparted to the variety under notice. Like Reine Marie Henriette this Rose flowers most freely during June and July, and again, though sparsely, in the autumn. It was distributed by Messrs. P. and C. Nabonnand of Golfe Juan in 1900. Bernaix's Tea Souvenir de Mme. J. Metral, at 42 THE GAKDEN. [July 28, 1906. KOSB OAROLINH TE8T0UT IN BDD AND BLOSSOM. beat a poor, dingy, cirmina-ooloured variety, may well be superseded by Noella Nabonnand. Some Dwarf Poltanthas. — It appears to me that much £u88 has been made over Mme. Norbert Levavasseur — the cross between Crimson Rambler and Gloire des Polyantha — which was described by the raiser as being simply " Crimson Rambler nain." Despite the fact that it gained an award of merit from the floral committee of the Royal Horticultural Society when shown in pots from under glass in April, 1903, and has since then been much eulogised, I would earnestly entreat those who take the trouble to read my notes not to plant it in their gardens before seeing it in flower in the open. My own opinion of this variety is such that I have excluded it from my garden because of its crude colouring. Purplish crimson is an undesirable colour in the garden, and this is really the colour of Mme. N. Levavasseur before it has been out a few hours. A. R Goodwin. (To he continued ) better growth, and by exposure to light and air to become ripened before the winter sets in. Austrian Briars. — Beyond removing the dead, injured, and worn-out shoots, the Austrian Briars should not be touched at all with the knife. Scotch Briars. — These require similar treatment to the Austrian Briars. Hybrid Sweet Briars. — The Sweet Briars need no spring pruning at all ; bat in July, after flowering, it will be well to out out some of the older shoots where crowded, in order to give the younger ones a chance of making better growth. Rugosa or Japanese Roses. — This hard)' section requires but little pruning. Some of the old and crowded shoots should be entirely removed, and the younger growths either tied in or moderately shortened. Pompon. — The free-flowering miniature Pom- pon Roses should have their shoots well thinned out, and those left shortened one- half their length. Banhaia. — The pruning of this particular class of Rose difl'ers somewhat from that of nearly all the climbers in that they require but little thinning. After flower- ing, the strong shoots of the present year's growth not required to furnish the plant should be removed, and the rest of them tied in and slightly shortened. Care should be taken not to cut away the twiggy growths, as the flowers are borne on these laterals. GaUica or French Roses. — Only the striped varieties in this class are now grown. They should be well thinned out to prevent their growths becoming crowded. Single-flowered Roses — As these belong to so many difiirent sec- tions, it is impossible to give the exact treatment all of them require. Those of vigorous growth should be pruned as advised for other climbing and pillar Roses, while the bush and dwarf varieties should be only thinned out, and the points of the remaining shoots removed. The few dwarf Hybrid Perpetuals bearing single flowers should, however, be rather severely pruned. ROSES FOR MASSING. Whbn one speaks of Roses for massing, those sorts that produce a showy effect when planted in a group are, at course, intended. The list of such varieties is not a large one if we confine our- selves only to those that are as beautiful in autumn as they are in summer. The exquisite refreshing softness of a large plantation of Camoens is to me far more enjoyable than a gorgeous display of Crimson Rambler. But this, of course, is a matter of taste. Those individuals who prefer a showy mass of colour would find PRUNING ROSES AT THIS SEASON. To whatever section a Rose may belong, if it be grown as a climber, or as an arch or pillar, it will not do to cut it back hard, or it will bear bat few if any flowers. But there are also certain other Roses which, although not of extra strong growth, will not flower satisfactorily if cut back at all severely. It is by cutting away the flowering wood of such sorts that the greatest mistakes in pruning usually occur. Climbing, Pillar, and other strong- growing Roses — In the spring these need very little attention beyond securing the best shoots in the positions they are required to occupy, and to shorten back or remove altogether any other shoots which may not be required at all. Within July, however, all these strong - growing Roses should be examined, and every year some of the shnots which have flowered be entirely removed and the best of the strong young growths encour- aged to take their place, cut- ting out altogether those not needed. The object of thinning out the shoots that have flowered, and tying or laying in the strong young shoots of the current year, is to enable the latter to make A BED or ROSE CAPTAIN HAYWARD. July 28, 1906.] THE GAKDEN. 43 CramoiBie Superieure and Fabvier among the Chinas, Marquise de Salisbury and Griiss an Teplitz among the Hybrid Teas, Prinoeese de Sagan from the Tea-scented, and Gloire de Margottin and Victor Hugo from the Hybrid Perpetuals to be the best for brilliancy. These Roses flower well no matter how hard they are pruned. I think many growers spare the knife too much with these garden Roses. There can be no question that those shoots that spring from the lower part of the plant produce the showiest clusters. Of the lighter red shades, Captain Hayward, Ulrich Brunner, General Jacqueminot, and Dr. Andry are good, and Longworth Rambler and Fellenberg, although inclined to ramble, afford quite a brilliant display. Of the rich pink Roses we have a beauty in Mrs. W. J. Grant, but its wonderful freshness in the early summer is not maintained in autumn. Mme. Lambard, always good, and one of the hardiest Teas ; Mme. Abel Ohatenay, one of the loveliest of modern Roses, and as fragrant as beautiful ; Grace Darling, Grand Due de Luxembourg (a splendid variety), Helen Keller, Caroline Testoul, Mme. Eug^ae Resal, Gloire des Folyanthas, the showiest very dwarf Rose we have, and Camoens, one of the grandest decorative varieties in existence, are worth growing if room can be found for them. Of the lighter pink colours good for massing Captain Christy, Vis- countess Folkestone, La France, Mrs. Sharman Crawford, Sylph, and Mme. L. Messimy are splendid. We have also some good white, or nearly white, Roses that must not be overlooked. Perhaps the best are Augustine Guinoisseau, Frau Karl Druschki, Hon. Edith Gifford, Mrs. Bosanquet, Souvenir de la Malmaison, White Lady, Gloire Lyoonaise, Baronne de Maynard, Zephyr, Souvenir de S. A. Prince, White Pet, Anna Marie de Montravel, and Mme. E. A. Nolte. Rose Frau Karl Druschki is without doubt the finest white Rose in cultivation. Some time ago I remember reading in The Garden a note on the qualities of Caroline Testout, but the subject of this note is quite as good and showy. Introduced by M Peter Lambert of Germany in 1900, its parentage is given as MerveiUe de Lyon and Caroline Testout. Sent nut and always exhibited as a Hybrid Perpetual, it appears to me to more closely resemble the Hybrid Teas. The first name, Schnee Konigin (or Snow Queen), under which it was first exhibited in Germany, is a much more appropriate name. It is a very vigorous grower, and flowers continuously all through the summer and autumn. When the flowers are about half expanded the broad waxy petals give it a charming appearance. If pruned in a similar way to the Hybrid Perpetuals plenty of flowers are obtained, but if the young vigorous shoots are pegged down in spring, as shown in the illustration, the quantity of bloom is at least trebled, and this is not obtained at the expense of the individual flowers, plenty of which are 6 inches across. This is an excellent Rose for forcing. Rjse Captain Hayward is one of the earliest Hybrid Perpetual Roses to flower. As shown in the illustration, it is vigorous and very free flowering. The colour is a bright crimson- carmine, and the flower is sweetly perfumed Still occisionally seen on the show boards it is essentially a garden Rose, and is excellent for mass- ing in large beds. It is also one of the best Hybrid Perpetuals for forcing. We owe its introduction to the late Mr. Bennett in 1893. W. B. THE GREENHOUSE. (jJKUWJ H GROWING PERSIAN CYCLAMEN. AVING read for some time the corre- spondence relating to the growing of Cyclamen the second year, I am convinced that corms after eighteen months old are by far the best for producing the largest individual flowers and in the greatest quantity. By what reasoning can it be proved that eighteen months' old corms produce the best results ? After blooming, have we to relegate them to the rubbish heap, when they have not at least arrived at what I call middle age? My experience is that Cyclamens do not begin to deteriorate until the fourth or fifth season is passed. 1 have at various times seen plants badly treated. In the spring of the year, after blooming, I have seen them knocked out of their pota and placed outside because their PRIMULA KEWENSIS. Your correspondent, A. Daan, page 135, seems to fear that seed of Primula floribunda may be put on the market for P. kewensis. Seed of kewensis is ofifered by Messrs. Veitch in their seed catalogue. As Messrs. Veitch were the distributors of P. kewensis they are not at all likely to confound the two kinds. At first this Primula would appear to have been sterile, and personally I have never been able to obtain good seeds, but Messrs. Veitch with their wide experience would seem to have solved the diffi- culty. H. P. THUNBERGIA MYSORENSIS. This gorgeous stove climbing plant, recently given an award of merit at the Horticultural Hall, would be more familiar to old-time gardeners under the name of Hexacentris mysorensis, for though botanists now regard it as a Thunbergia, the older name is still in general use. It was HYBRID PBRPETtJAIi ROSE FEAD KARL DRtSCBKI MASSED IN A LARGE BED U> THE ROYAL GARDENS, KEW. pots and the room were required in the frame, often becoming completely dried up. And, again, the plants are sometimes placed on hot dry shelves to be, as the gardener calls it, dried ofi'. No wonder plants are unsatisfactory. Cyclamens should produce from between 70 and 100 flowers the second year, the third year still more, until the fourth and fifth year. I am sending you three photographs of Cyclamen, second year blooming. The seed was sown on August 2, 1902, and the photograph taken on March 26, 1905. On No. 1 group there are over 200 fully expanded blooms ; it is a light rose in jolour. No. 2 has 47 blooms. No. 3 consists of four pota — the top one has 52, the left 47, the bottom 72, and the right 163. All the plants on No. 3 had blooms picked from them before the photographs were taken. I have still the same plants, and shall bloom them another season, and then do away with them. Now these plants have all improved since the first blooming season. I have about introduced into this country from Mysore a little over half a century ago, and under cultiva- tion it forms a quick-growing climber that will soon cover a considerable space in the stove, and, as a rule, flowers profusely. The best results are obtained when planted out rather than when confined in pots. The flowers are widely removed in general appearance from the other Thunbergias, and borne in drooping racemes, each flower having a rather long stalk with an upright curve, so that the bloom itself is nearly erect. In shape the flower somewhat suggests a large Snapdragon, the upper lobe forming a kind of hood, while the bottom one points downwards, and those at the sides stand out somewhat stitSy. In colour these lobes are bright yellow with broad margins of scarlet, the tube of the flower being of a purplish tint. The flowers are nearly 2 inches across, so as may be readily uoderstood a specimen when laden with long racemes forms 100 young seedlings in 3-inch pots coming on to i a really magnificent feature. It may often be replace their parents. P. Clapham. I seen in flower in the Palm House at Kew. The Gardens, BrooMeigh, Caiverley, Leeds. H. P. 44 THE GAKDEN. [July 28, 1906. GARD8NING FOR BSGINN8RS. INCREASING THE PINK.— The Piuk is usually iucreaaed by means of eultings, commonly called " pipings." Ii is quiie simple, and may be performed as follows : Cut off as many ehools as are required from the parent plant, and pre- pare each one by cutting it through immediately below a j lint — that is to say, where the leaves clasp the stem — with a sharp knife. It \i important that the knifd should be sharp, other- wise the cut will not be clean and the tender shoot may be bruised, and so fail to root. Remove the two lower leaves, and the cut- ting is then quite ready for insertion ; .3 inches or 4 inches is a suitable length. Although these are ommonly termed pipings, the true piping is slightly different. To secure it intact, take hold of the shoot with the left band, holding it with the first finger and thumb, and then, by a sharp pull upwards, you get the piping with the necessary base j )int attached. Tbese pipings can be taken very quickly, and as they are quite ready for insertion they can be prepared very easily. The pipings should be placed in eaady soil either in a frame or beneath a hand-light in some half-shady spot ; even if one has neither frame nor hand-light, a mike-shift frame can be easily improvised by using a bax about 1 foot deep. Place some rough cinders at the bottom of this for drainage ; then upon them put 4 inches of sandy soil, making it fairly firm and level. By covering the box with a sheet of glass you have a very useful propa- gating frame. The pipings should be dibbled in this sandy soil, making them firm at the base. Shade from the sun, give little or no water, and take care to wipe the condensed moisture from the glass first thing in the morning. The cuttings will root in a few weeks, and the glass may then be removed. Sfferences to Illustration. — A. Old plant of Pink : a, slips. B : 6, straggling tip of bark jast cut oflf ; c, hair-like roots will come from these j lints ; d, depth to plant the cutting ; e.topgrowth. C. Slip taken off the old plant with some roots : /, point where detached from rootstock ; g, adhering roots ; h, roots that may be present or will push from jiints of stem ; i, depth to insert in the soil. D. A branchlet of Pink showing the piping proper : i, the piping (made by taking the shoot between the finger and thumb at the point I, and pulling it sharply out of its socket. Cut close under a bottom j lint). E Pipings in- serted. F. Catting from relatively long growth : o, callus and roots ; p, growths that may have pushed from buds below ground ; ij, growths springing from axils of the leaves. G. A cutting taken from bise of stem : s, callus and roots ; t, young growth pushing below ground, and that will root from j jint of issue. H. Piping proper : v, callus and roots ; w, stem of plant ; x, shoots pushing from axils of the leaves. SIMPLE HINTS. the bark may remain green for some time, there will be no growth. A Summer Propagating Bed. — Select a shady site on the north side ot a wall or fence 6 feet high or so. Oa this make a bed of sandy loam and leaf-mould 5 inches to 6 inches deep, with a layer of shirp sand on the top, the whole to be made firm and well watered. We usually strike our cuttings under hand-lights or small frames, but glass in any form will do. On a bed of this kind pretty well all kinds of evergreen shrubs An Item in Budding Briars. — Buds which remain dormant through the winter make the strongest and best heads, but to keep them dormant the shoots in which the buds are inserted must not be shortened till the winter is past. If the shoots are shortened at budding time the buds will start and pjssibly produce a poor weak flower ; but what good are such fijwers, espe- cially when we know they are discounting the future ? Another matter is, be careful in ex- tracting the wood from the shield of bark not to remove the germ or centre of the bud, as, though HOW TO INCREASE THB PINK (BY MBANS OF CDTTISG OB PIPINGS). and plants may be rooted if good cuttings 4 inches to 6 inches long can be obtained and firmly inserted. It is best not to crowd, as some of the cuttings may not be moved as soon as rooted, though, of course, if they are to be potted up they may go in 2 inches apart and be potted Its soon as rooted. The bed should be watered as soon as made, and again after the cuttings are in. Afterwards keep the cuttings reasonably moist, but the needs of each plant will be studied in the matter of sprinkling or watering. In preparing the cuttings use a sharp knife, and cut jast beneath a joint and remove the bottom pair of leaves ; but the more foliage left on the cuttings, provided the leaves retain their fresh- ness, the sooner roots will form. In striking Roses select from shoots from the upper part ot the bushes when possible with a heel of older wood, retaining as many leaves as possible. The frames must fit close, but every morning lift off the tops of the hand-lights or prop up the lights if small frames are used, and leave them open for an hour or so, but close immediately the foliage shows signs of distress by willing. This will eflfectually prevent damping o£f. The cuttings may be dewed over with a fine- rosed pot in bright weather every afternoon. There is, of course, need for judgment to be exercised in the matter of sprinkling or watering and ventilating, but the latter process — at the beginning, at any rate — should take place early in the morning. Fuchsias, Myrtles, Euonymus, and choice conifers may be rooted in this way, but all the Geranium family will do better without glass covering, standing them in the sunshine, and for the convenience of moving them indoors they are usually struck in pots or boxes. — H. Layering Carnations. — The simplest method of increasiiig the stock of any par- ticular variety of Carnation is by means of layering. As we have on other occasions pointed out, the best way of obtaining an abundance of flowers is to grow Carnations from seed, but in that case one gets a certain percentage of single flowers and all sorts of colours. Although theee may not be perfect flowers from the point of view of the fancier or exhibitor, they are, nevertheless, very beautiful and most valuable in the garden. However, having a stock of Carnations, the best way, as we have said, to increase these particular sorts is by means of layering. All who grow Carnations will have noticed that during the summer, while the flower-shoots were forming, a number of the growths or shoots developed at the base of the plant. The term " layering" is used to indicate the method which is employed to make these shoots form roots, and so become independent plants. It is important to have the shoots layered in good time — that is to say, by the end of July or early in August, so that they may become well established and well rooted before the winter sets in. As soon, then, as the flowers are over, which will be about the end of July, a number of these shoots at the base of each plant should be selected to form layers. Some plants produce more than others, but about half-a-dozen layers can usually be taken from one plant. To Carry Out the Work of Layering, remove alt the leaves on that portion of the stem of the shoot which is most conveniently ^ brought to the ground, roughly, about 6 inches from the end. Then, when all the shoots have been prepared in this way, with a sharp pen- knife make an upward cut from that portion of the stem whence the leaves have been removed. This cut must be made very carefully, otherwise one is liable to cut the shoot right through. The longitudinal cut should bs made in the centre of the stem. Cut into the latter jast below a joint, continuing the cut upwards for about 1 inch, so that it passes through the joint. Then, either with some wooden pegs or hairpins, which answer admirably, peg down the shoot where cut, so tiiat the separated piece, which is called the tongue, is pressed away from the other portion of >he stem, the two making the shape of the letter V. It must be pressed firmly into the soil by means of the hairpin or peg. It is important that the tongue of the shoot should be kept open, and, if necessary, this should be done by means of the finger while the shoot is being pegged down. July 28, 1906.] THE GAKDEN. 45 The Accompanying Illustration gives a good idea of how the work should be carried out. The hairpin is shown pegging down the shoot, and the tongue is also shown open. While the shoots will usually root in the ordinary border soil around them, if this is loosened with a handfork so as to admit of their being pressed into it, they will do so much more readily if small mounds of light sandy soil are placed round about the LAYBRING THB CARNATION. parent plant conveniently for the layering. Take care that the shoot is covered over at the cut portion ; after pBg£>ing it down by means of the hairpin a little more soil should be used, 8o as to make sure that it is properly covered. It will be found convenient first to select the number of shoots to be layered, then to remove the leaves from that part of the shoot which is to be pressed into the soil, afterwards placing mounds of fresh soil where wanted. Then, as each shoot is slit, it should be layered. The soil should be moistened through a rose watering- can whenever it appears to be getting dry, and a good watering should be given immediately after layering. next stage is to pot them ofiF singly into small pots either in autumn or in early spring. When well established in their aowering pote, give them weak liquid manure. These Calceolarias want a cool, moist atmosphere. Green-fly is partial to them, and for this vaporise with the XL All Vaporiser. The shrubby Calceolarias are those used so much for bedding, and are easily grown. They strike easily from cuttings, and are bright either outdoors or in the green- house. Cuttings put in a cold frame in August and kept close and shaded quickly root. Golden Gem is one of the best varieties. Camellia. — A well-known greenhouse plant ; may be grown also outdoors. It requires much the same cultivation as the Azalea. A few of the best varie- ties are : Alba plena, double white ; Auguate Delfosse, rich carmine ; Bealii, crimson ; eandi- diseima, white ; C. H. Hovey, deep red ; Chandleri elegans, rose ; Comte de Gomez, rose, marked with crimson and white ; Comtesse Lavinia Maggi, white with carmine stripes ; Donke- laarii, crimson, marbled with white, semi - double ; fimbriata, scarlet ; Lady Hume's Blush, Mme. Le Bois, carmine ; mathoti- ana, crimson; mathotiana alba, pure white ; ^aeen of Beauties, pink ; Reine des Roses, rose ; reticulata, rosy red ; Roi Leopold, deep pink. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. THE GREENHOUSE. Calceolaria. — The Calceolarias of gardens may be roughly divided into two groups— herbaceous and shrubby. The former are invariably raised from seed, and when the flowering season is over the plants are thrown away. The teed, which should be sown about the middle of June, is so small that special care must be taken in sowing it. A good plan in preparing the pots or pins for the seed is, in the first place, to see that they are thoroughly clean and well drained with broken crocks. Then mix some loam, leaf-mould, and sand well together and pass them through a sieve with a quarter of an inch mesh. The rougher portions will not pass through a sieve of this mesh, and should be laid over the crocks in the pot or pan, and on this place the finer soil, which must be pressed down moderately firm and made quite level. In order to wet the soil previous to sowing the seed the pot or pan should be held in a pail of water almost to the rim, so that the water will enter by the bottom hole and percolate through the drainage material and the soil. While the surface is still wet, sprinkle the seed thinly on it and place a pane of glass over the pan, which must be placed in a shady part of the greenhouse. Watering should be done as directed for the first moistening of the soil. Under these conditions the young plants will soon appear, when the glass covering must be removed. When well above ground, the pan should be placed in a light position, but shading from sun is essential. As soon as the young plants can be conveniently handled, they should be pricked off into pans or boxes, which must be i prepared in the same way as for sowing. The j FLOWER GARDEN. HEUCHERAS.— Until within the last few years the flowers of many of the species being inconspicuous, the Heucheras were mostly grown as edging plants, the foliage of some being prettily marked. Since the introduction of Heuchera sanguinea about twenty years ago, a number of seedling forms have sprung up with such beautiful flowers that they are now valuable decorative plants. One sometimes hears it said that sanguinea is quite the best. Many forms of sanguinea have been raised ; these vary slightly in colour and in the size of the bells, but I doubt if the colour of the original sanguinea has ever been improved upon. If planted in small groups they form dense masses of colour and are most effective, embracing in their colour range shades of white, pink, and scarlet. They are also invaluable for their yield of cut flowers. The elegant spikes are excellent for dinner-table arrangements, and I would advise the extended culture of these pretty flowers for cutting pur- poses. I consider July the best time to plant Heucheras, the flowers are by this time fading. The plants may be lifted and divided into single crowns and planted at once where it is intended they should flower next season. Choose the strongest crowns, as these give the best results, although every crown having a few leaves will grow whether it is detached with a piece of root or not. I use them as surface plants for Rose- beds. Just lightly fork up the beds and incor- porate some light, hot-bed manure, and plant the cuttings 9 inches apart. This is done annually in July. The beds are sprinkled with water in the evenings till the plants start into growth. They are nicely rooted in six weeks, and cover the surface of the Rose-beds with foliage the following spring, blooming profusely. The effect is pretty among the early Roses, which they do not appear to hurt in the least ; indeed, the frequent waterings the cuttings receive during July and August are beneficial to the RoEes. The forms of sanguinea are the best for this purpose. The hybrids of the brizoides section are too tall and denee. These are seen at their beet planted in groups in the borders. The Best Heucheras— Brizoides is a fine hybrid, it forms a dense mass of colour. Gracil- lima, flowers bright red, panicles 2 feet high. This is very light and graceful in habit. Micrantha and its variety Rosea are an exceed- ingly pretty pair, producing tall spikes with hundreds of minute flowers. Rosamund, a very strong grower of the micrantha type, is one of the best. It makes numerous branching spikes 4 feet high, a grand inflorescence of coral pink. Pluie de feu, a counterpart of Rosamund, except in colour, which is a deeper pink. Zibeliana is a pretty hybrid with bright pink flowers. Whites are represented by alba, a free-flowering variety. Profusion is desirable, cream coloured, a good companion to Rosamund, being similar in habit. Kilnfield White is the whitest I have seen. The flowers are large, and the spike is good. Layering Carnations —Proceed now with the layering of border Carnations. Loam and leaf-mould with the addition of plenty of sand make a suitable compost to place round the plants in which to peg the layers. Sprinkle the layers with water in the evening till they are rooted. G. D. Davison. Westwicic Gardens, Norwich. ORCHIDS. Seedling Obchids.— The raising of Orchids from seed IS a most interesting pursuit. In the case of Cypripediums the seed germinates freely on the surface of the parent plants, and seeds sown as I advised early in the spring have germinated freely, and many of the largest seedlings should now be pricked off and potted up separately. For this purpose it is advisable to get in a stock of seedling-pots about 1 inch in diameter. When potting they should be half filled with small crocks, and then filled to the rim with equal pro- portions of chopped fibrous peat and sphagnum moss intermixed freely with coarse sand. Press moderately firm and make a hole in the compost with a pointed stick ; place the seedling plant in position and press the compost against the roots and the base of the plant so as to secure it in position. Very small seedlings should be allowed to remain in the pots on which they were raised for a few weeks longer, unless they are in an unhealthy condition, then they are best pricked off, and six or more should be placed firmly around the sides of the seedling pot. These small seedlings require a hot, shady posi- tion, abundance of moisture in the atmotphere, and should never be allowed to get dry at the mot. Dendrobicms, Cattlbtas, L^has, and Epi- DEN DRUMS are very easily raised on pots of oocoa- uut fibre or peat and moss chopped up finely and pressed very firmly in the pot. The compost is then saturated and a little of the seed should be distributed over the surface. They should then be placed in a propagating frame in which the temperature can be kept up to 95° until the seed has germinated. The conditions inside the frame must be very hot and moist, and the seed should be frequently sprayed with a very fine sprayer. When germination has taken place and the first leaf is formed, a large number should be pricked off into small pots of chopped peat and sphagnum, mixed together with coarse sand, and as soon as they are large enough they should be transferred into single pote. This operation should be performed as early in the season as possible, so that the young plants get well established before the winter. The plants should be kept well shaded, but to get the best results with Orchid seedlings it is necessary to have a warm, light house especially for them, and the nearer the plants can be staged (within reason) to the ronf glass the better. A steady tempera- ture of 80» by day and 75° by night should be 46 THE GARDEN. [July 28, 1906. maintained, and they require plenty of moisture. The growth should never receive a check in any way. The cultivator should keep a sharp look- out for thrips during the time of watering, and as soon as their presence is detected the house should be fumigated, or, better still, use XL All every third week or so to prevent their appearance. W. H. Page. Ohardtvar Gardens, Bourton-on-the- Water, Qlos. FRUIT GARDEN. Orchard Fruit —Now that the more pressing work of summer pruning has received attention, advantage should be taken of the present some- what quiet period to go over the trees, the interior of which were thinned of spray and other branches last winter, and from which numerous shoots will have grown. These should be cleanly removed with a sharp knife, and, if it be done now, there is less risk of other shoots growing from their base than would be the case if left till winter. The Fig Out of Doors. — With the warm weather now prevailing the fruits will be ripen- ing, and a second crop may be secured in the most favoured districts. These should be well thinned out, leaving only the largest and best- placed ones, checking any gross growths, and tying in or nailing only those for which there is sufficient room. The protection of ripening fruit from birds and the gathering of each kind as it ripens will require timely attention. Apricots and Peaches now ripening should be looked over daily, and all ripe fruits gathered before they have had time to drop. Much care is necessary in picking the fruits, as they are easily damaged. The fingers should be placed well round the fruit, and a gentle pressure as near the footstalk as possible will cause them to drop off in the hand. Melons. — The planting of Melons for a late crop should be no longer delayed, as by the lime they are matured the days will be getting short and sun heat less efifeclive. Plants that are carrying fruits will require very liberal supplies of water at this season. The watering of the beds should be thoroughly done, small quantities frequenlly afforded doing harm. In affording water to Melons, care should be taken not to let it come in contact with that part of the stem at the surface of the soil, nor should the atmosphere of the house be allowed to stagnate, in case canker of the plant should set in. Remove all superfluous growths, and apply a light mulch or tcp - dressing. The plants should be freely syringed, except when in flower or when the fruit is ripening. CrcDMEERS require much the same treatment as advised for the early treatment of Melons. The plants now in bearing should have all exhausted growths removed once a week and fresh growths laid in, stopping all secondary growths at one leaf beyond the fruit. Afford ample supplies of water at the roots, and never allow a fruit to hang after it has attained sufficient size. Sacces- sional plantings should be made. Tomatoes for furnishing late crops should now be planted out in fruiting pots or beds. Those potted now should continue the supply till Christmas. Thomas Wilson. Olamis CasUe Gardens, Olamis, N.B. KITCHEN GARDEN. Parsley and Chervil — Preparations should soon be made for the principal towing of Parsley for winter use. Select a bite on a warm border if possible. Prepare the ground well by trenching and manuring, for though Parsley will grow nearly anywhere, to have a good result a rich, well - tilled soil is necessary, and the crop well repays any extra labour in that way. Sow thinly in shallow drills 1 foot apart ; if the ground is very dry it is a good plan to water the drills before sowing. Where Parsley does well it makes a nice green edging to beds cropped for the winter and spring with Broccoli, &c. Afford plenty of soot or manure water to plants in active growth. If flower-stems appear break them out at once or the plants will cease to yield useful leaves. Make another sowing of Chervil for autumn use. Mint. — Where Mint is in much demand during the winter months it is a good practice to strike a number of cuttings in boxes about this time of the year. Prepare suitable sized boxes, fill with ordinary garden soil enriched with some spent Mushroom bed material and leaf-mould, with a little sand. Select strong shoots of Mint about 5 inches or 6 inches long, cut them to a bud, take off the bottom leaves, and insert the cuttings firmly in the box about 2^ inches deep, in rows .S inches or 4 inches apart, place the boxes in a cold frame or any shady place, and it will be found that in two or three weeks' time they will be well rooted, and if given care and attention will give a good supply for the winter. Stems of Mint, when just coming into flower, can be cut and dried also for winter use. Summer Savory, Marjoram, and Sage may be treated in the same manner as regards drying. The stems must be cut before the herbs are in full flower. Beans. — Make a late sowing of Dwarf Beans on a warm border or a sheltered place, and where it will be possible to place old lights over them if necessary in case of early frosts. If the ground is very dry, give a good watering before inserting the seeds thinly in rows from 14 inches to 16 inches apart. Ne Plus Ultra is a very suit- able variety for this sowing. Keep Runner Beans well supplied with water, and occasionally with manure water. Onions. — Autumn-sown Onions that were transplanted in the spring will soon be finishing, and should have the necks twisted to check the upward flow of sap, and to help plump up the bulb any that are already matured should be pulled up to dry, so that they may get quite bard before being stored. Should it be wet, place them under cover or on a hurdle raised from the ground — upon which has been placed some wire-netting — to allow a free circulation of air round the bulbs. J. Jaques. Bryanston Gardens, Blandford. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. ROLES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Anaweps.— TA< Bdxtor intends to make THE OASDES helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no matter tDhat the branch of gardening may be, and Kith that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tions should be clearly and concisely written on &tie. side of the paper orUy, and addressed to the Bditob of THE Qabden, so, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to ony designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. FLOWER GARDEN. Violas from Seed (C. O. P.). — The seedlings are too small at present to transplant into the border where they are to flower. Tne soil there would be too coarse and heavy for them ; in fact, they are altogether too young and tender to be given such rough-and-ready treatment. As soon as they are so large that you can conveniently transplant them, remove them either into boxes or to a somewhat shaded border prepared for them, planting them at least 4 inches apart. After being properly drained, using some rough turfy soil to cover the drainage, the boxes should be filled with a compost of leaf-soil and loam in equal parts, passing the whole through a coarse sieve. If you plant them out on the border, the soil must be well broken up and pulverised, some leaf-soil being mixed with it. Towards the end of September you might put the seedlings in their permanent places, especially if, as you say, the position is a sheltered one They are hardy enough, so far as danger from frost is concerned ; it is the wet during the winter that often causes them to die off, and for this reason they are often the better for some little protection. PL.VNT3 UxiiKB TREE {M. .V.) — The piece of ground which you have to deal with, cleared from a shrubbery, and overshadowed by a Chestnut tree, the soil being light, is rather an unsatisfactory one in which to grow plants so as to have a succession of bloom. You say that bulbs do well with you. Solomon's Seal would probably do very well in such a position, and St. John's Wort, too, would thrive. You might try Japanese Anemones, which would give you flowers as late as August. Some of the strong- growing Lilies, such as Lilium tigrinum, L. croceum, and L. pardalinum, would probably also succeed. THE GREENHOUSE. Richardia blliottiana {M. L. G ). — The yellow-flowered Arum with spotted leaves is different in its behaviour from the common white Arum Lily. Richardia elliottiana, the yellow- flowered kind, naturally flowers about the month of May, and by the end of August the plant usually becomes quite dormant. When in this condition it must be kept dry. After being kept dry for some time the tubers may be repotted in December or January, taking care that they are quite shaken clear of the old soil. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, dried cow manure, and sand will suit them well. In a temperature of 55° to 60" the plants will soon start into growth, and, of course, as spring advances they may be kept warmer. Plant Unhealthy {F. Dayes). — Your plant is attacked by mealy bug. If the plant is badly infested your best plan will probably be to burn it, because once this pest gets firmly established in a house it is most difficult to get rid of. If, however, many plants are attacked by it yon can- not, of cjurse, throw them all awav, and you must take measures to eradicite it. One of the best remedies is Gishurst Compound. Ycu should prepare this at the rate of 8 z. to a gallon of water, adding sufficient clay to give it the con- sistency of paint. Yob may kill them by using a small brush dipped in paraffin. This, however, must be used very carefully ; the least touch with the paraffin will kill them, but it will also injure the plant unless care is taken. You might remove many simply with a brush dipped in soft soapy water to which a wineglassful of paraffin to two gallons of water has been added. It is most important to le continually on the look-out so as to prevent the increase of this pest. Fumi- gating with XL All insecticide occasionally is recommended. MAL5IAIS0N Carnations Dying (J. Bejistead).— We are inclined to think that eelworms are the cause of the trouble with your Carnations, or possibly it may be wire- worms. In either case the aifected plants should be at once burned, as nothing can be done to save them. If you had shaken a plant out of the soil and forwarded it we should have been able to ascertain for certain the cause of the mischief. Your only safeguard will be to propagate from healthy plants, and use soil from a diSerent source. It it can be sterilised before ufing so much the better. E.\isiSG Double Begonias {Wm. Edgimjton). — Fre- sumably the female flowers of your double Begonias were fertilised by the pollen of single varieties, in which case the proportion of double flowers is sure to be small, and sometimes, as happened in your case, there are none at all. As a thoroughly double male bloom produces no pollen, the best results are obtained from good semi- double flowers, in which case the more nearly they approach the true double, consistent with their yielding pollen, so much more is the likelihood of the progeny bearing double flowers. Sometimes the very best double varieties will, if staived, produce a few semi-double blooms with a little pollen. When this happens it is particularly valuable to the hybridiser, as the largest proportion of perfect blooms can be obtained in this way. Even in the most skilful hands there is a certain amount of lottery in the raising of double Begonias from seed. ROSE GARDEN. Propagating Rose "Sport" {Rosarian, Keith). Anna Olivier is, like many of the Tea-scented Roses, very variable in colour, and the richly hued Lady Roberts and the lemon - coloured Mrs. Stephen Treseder are both valuable sports which have been obtained from it. It would JuLT 28, 1906.] THE GAEDEN. 47 certiainly be a great gain were you BUCceBsful in fixing the pport produced by your plant if, ap you Bay, the colour is *'a rich pink or coral red, nearly approaching Mrae. Abel Chatenay in colour " The beet plan for you to purpue would be to cut off the shoot which has produced thip richly tinted blossom and bud from it. With Tea-flcented Roses it is usually advisable not to select the flattened, pointed buds which are r f ten next to the bloom, but in this cise we should insert every bud on the shoot in the hope of fixing the sport. The use of highly nitrogenised manures in the cultivation of Rises frequently renders them liable to colour variation, so that you must not be disheartened if you are unpuc- oeseful in fixing this oport at the first attempt. The exoerience of most pf ople goes to show that Lady Roberts is extremely variable in colour, this being no doubt partly attributable to soil and climatic conditions. In this respect it is certainly much more reliable under glass. WlCHURAIANA RoSES ON BbTAB StOCKS {G. H. M. K.). — You can most certainly bud any of these lovely Roses upon Bnar stocks, and the taller the storks the more eff^ctive they will be when planted about the lawn. Lidv Gay makes a pplpn^id weeper, so also d' ■ Alberic Barbier, Toe Farquhar, and in fact all of the tribe, even the type. These Roses also strike freely from cutting". These, if planted in isolated positions and tied to 6 feet or 6 feet poles, are very effective when they partly droop to the ground. They are also very interesting when creeping over heaps of logs or stones or running over old cankered Apple trees. Rose Freak {J. E. W.) —It Is not uDuaual to find Rose blonme h»vlii(t armther bloom or bu(i in the centre. Ic is usually caused by some check in the Rrowth, but there are a few sorts rather nHdiftpd to ibi" m«lf'>rmation. Good Late-bloomino Roses {E M. 3f ).— We would suggest Phartaaer instead " f Anna Ollvie' ; Lady Batter- sea or C -rallina instead of Papa G mtier, for however lovely this R 'se is, it. is not very hardy ; and Mme. Ravary instead of Qie^n Mab. You could not rio better than plant GustBve Rpfcis and Marquise de Saliabuiy, as they are both v^i^y df'onratlvp. Stem bobino Grub {R H. O) —This pest is the larvae of one 'f 'be eaw-fll^-a. The female deposits the egg^ In those shootB not havinp: a flower-hud or that has not yet formed a bu^^, and when the grub hatches out it com- mences to bore its way richt down the shoot, which causes this latter to wither at the piint. The only remedy la to prune early, so that the shoots form buds before the saw- fly appears. Some seasons are worse than others for the pest, and it is especially fond of certain Roses, such as Clio, which prnd'^c strnnc, nnccnlent erowths. Crimson Rambler Sporting (W. D.)— The Mnorasyou sent weie ve-^y pretty, and should prrtve useful, althoueh they somewhat resemhle another rambler named Wedding BpIIs. "We should advise you to manure your plant wf-U this autumn, and do not prune it much next sp-^ing. Tie UD the growths, spreading them outward a little, and in Mty and early June give some liquid manure. If the tniBses fif bloom develop well next y^'ar you 8h"uld exhibit them before the Royal H Tticultural Society, who meet every other Tuepdav at Vincent Square, Liindon. Y'lu could also bud pome plants this summer or take some cuttings from this plant in the autumn. TREES AND SHRUBS. Shkubs not Flowering {F. W L ) — Cuttingp of the Jat-mine may be taken durii"g the month of Aaeust. They must be formed oi the current season's shoots, cut off at a j int to a length of 4 inches to 6 inches, dibbled firmly into pots of sandy soil, and placed in a frame kf pt close and shaded from the sun. Such a frame is available for the propagation of many other fhrubby plants which may be treated in the same way. It is difficult to say why your Honeysuckles have not flowered since the first eeapoo after planting, but it would appear to us that they are not in a flourishing state, though on this point you say nothing. The first crop of flowers would, of course, be the result of growth made the previous year, and the plants have apparantly not made satipfactory growth since. This may be owing to their being planted in poor or unsuitable soil, while drought at the roots is another probable cause. This last difficulty may be overcome by a good watering oocasiooally, but if the roots are in poor soil the only way to put matters right if to take out the soil 2 feet deep and replace it by flome suitable compost, say, a mixture of Ioam> leaf-mould, and well-decayed minure. Starvation %t the roots is a frequent cause of plants on walls failing to do themselves juatice. Removing Branches op Cedrus Libaki (E. M. M.).— We no not recommend using ihe knife at all upon this tiesutiful tree. The sLumed appearance of the lower branches may be owing to insect or scale which Sf^metimes attacks the growths. If you find any, give them a good washing with Calvert's carbolic soap, 2ja. to one gallon of water, appMefl eld. Beech {C-natavca 5arfdon).— The enclosed Beech speci- men is from a variety of the common Beech called Fagus syivatjca var. heterophylla. The long narrow leaves are typical of the variety, the shorter and broader ones are from branches inclined to revert hack to the type F. sylvatica. It Is a common thing for a variety of leaves to be borne on this particular tree, and it is usual to remove these sporting branches when they appear. FRUIT GARDEN. Peach Leaves Falling [A. D). — The leaves you send look as though the tree was badly nourished. We should advise you to give it further food than it gets from the ordinary border soil, by watering with liquid f*irmyard manure once a week for some weeks. Eren if the tree had not actually been dry at the roots, the lack r>f nourishment might possibly cause some of the leaves to fall. So far as their scorched appearance is corcemed, this is not due to aoy disease. It might have arisen through syringing the tree with too strong an insfcticide. or t brough the sun scorching the leaves in the morninp when they were moist. If the fruits are gathered we should advise you to hoae the tree thoroughly ; 'his, together with several applications of manure water, will probably do it a lot t f good. Peach Leaves UNnBALTHY (FT. D) — Your Peach tree munt be in a very bad way, judging bj the leaves which you have sent. They are attacked by thrips and red spider, two very troublesome insects, and they are also badly -corched. We should advise you first of all to give the tree a thorough hosing, that, is providing your fruit is gathered. This will remove a lot o' dirt and scorched leaves, and possibly some of the insects. The next day you should ayring^" the tree thoroughly with the followintf mixture : Half a pound flowers of sulphur and Itb. fresh lime boiled in two gallons of water, then add three-quarters of a pound of soft soap, and when 4.11 is well mixed add two more gallons of water. Svringe the tree with this mixture every other day for a week, and if the following week you fumigate the bouse with the XL All insecticide, and keep the tree well hosed during the remainder • f the summer, vou will find that it will be in a far healthier cordition than it is now. Blind Strawberry Runners {E. B. A'.)— We are afraid that if y-ur Strawberry plants are blind now they will be blind next year also. At any rate, the prohabilit> iq so great that we should advise you to pull them up. We sh"uld advise you also not to rely upon runners taken from blind plants, for they themselves are often defective in the same wny. Strawberries Mildewed {Gardener, Essex). — The foli«Be and small fruits i-f Strawberrips sent are a mass of mildew. Are your plants very thick ? If so, thin out, and izive a dressing of some reliable ins'^cticide. We would not propagate from these plants. You would do well to procure a clean stock. You do not tell ns the variety, ge of plants, and posi'ion in which they are grown. Thopp d^'flils nr« always helpful. Cherries Failing (John L. Ekins).—We think the cause of your Cheiriea turnint; yellow like those sent us is owing to their havingbeen caught by the late frost. This, we know, was responsible for similar damage in several giirdens this year. Of course It may be that your tree has suffered fmm drought at the roots. The soil around wall trees very often is quite dry when that in the open border is wet, and un'ess they are frequently watered during the spring and summer the young fruits are liable to fall. If, however, you have attended to the watering properly, no d'mbt tbp frost, wns reononsihle, Madrebfiild Court Grapes Diseased (J. S. B ).— From yt>ur detailed and clear statement of the treatment of your Mad'-esfleld Court Vines, we have no hesitation in saying that the cause of the injury to the berries has been the dlicon'inuance of the little artificial warmth in the pipes too soon after the setting of the berries. If you had continued the same warmf h nntil stoning had taken place) with a freer admittance of air, all, we think, would have gone well with your Grapes. The foliage Is perfectly healthy, and from the appearance of the healthy berriei OD the bunch of Grapes sent, if given a little warmth Id the pipes and a freer ventilatioQ during the day, and a small chink of front and back air left on all night, we hope and believe your crop will yet be saved. Do not use manure water again until the mischief has disappeared. Cut away the diseased berriei as they appear. MISCELLANEOUS. History of Holland House (5. »r.).— The most com- preht-nstve histhort experience. So much depends upou the man, the size of the garden, and the work he will have to undertake. There is no rule, but we should consider flffeen months' experience not sufficient. Plant Bug (S. G. fJ).— The plant bug found on your Romneya Coulteri is Calocorls bipuncrata, a common insect, which proves to he a pest on various plants. As regards destroying it, the best way is to shake the plant over an open «mbrella, or a board or sheet of metal which has been recently tarred or painted so as to be sticky enoucrh to hold the insects when they fall upon it. A.% far as I know few experiments have been made in destroying plant bugs, and any suggestions that you could make on this point would be very interesting — G. S. S. Marguerite DAiST-FLr {Doctors' Commons).— We are afraid >ou can do nothing to get rid of this pest which sometimes plays sad havoc among Marguerites and Chrysanthemums, except to remove the leaves which are worst sffec'ed, or, ff the leaves are not badly attacked, by pinching the leaf just where the grub is. When plants are crowded together in a small space they seem more liable to the attack rf this grub than when tlipy are given plenty ff room in which to grow, and so develop healthy, vignr'-us leaves, better able to withstand the attacks. Bust (Doctors' Commons) —The term rust is applied to varliUB fungi which a'tack the leaves of plants, but we fail to find any trace of such on the small sppdmens sent. Thrips, however, appear to have damaged the leaves con- Biderably, and if these pests get on thp Ffirns ^hey are difficult to dislodge. Vapourising with the XL All Vaporiser will kill the thrips, and Bvringtne night and morning in hot weather will be beneficial. Thoueh the Mane'tia will stand out of doors during the summer, a direct draught snch as that indicatert hv you Is nor heneflc'al to it. Obtaining Insectioidfs (R. H. B >,— While we should cprtainly fav^u'- the uoe by ynu. for the sake of safety, of dnly preparpd insecticides as rffered by vendors of these things, you mav, if prff-rred, no doubt obtain the ingre- Hienta you rpqnire from a whnleanle cbpmi"t. snch ag WaPer Vosb nnd C\, Cirlton Chpmical Works. Millwall, London. E. You will no d*^ubt h«ve to sa'isfv the firm that yr-u require poisons for purely hortlcnUural purposes. With many of these insecticides or fnneicPe«, apart from their daneerouB nature as poison", a ffood dpal of special care is needed in preparing or usine them because of their bnrnlrg or c Tros'vp qualifies We shou'd always prefer to p'Tcha^e tbpm op*-ci 'My rrpporpfl for use. WORMS IN Pot Plants {R. P K ).— The simplest way to remove worms from pot plants is to make up a gallon or two of strong soot or lime water. D'asolve a pound of either in two eallons of water, stir It frequently, and then let it settle when quite dissolved. After twenty-f^ur hours waterthe plants with the clpa** llqnid Two or three nnfh waterings at intervals of two davs uau'iUy suffices to kill the W'lrms ; you could also turn the plants out of the pots if they be small, and pirk out some of the worms. The worst resnlt of worm action In pots is that thpy so hurrow the soil as to allow the water to ru«h through the halls of roots without properlv moistening them. A^ to destroying Insects or etrtrs, no plan is better than "llowing •he soil to be well sera* ched over by chickens or wild birds. Orberwise it can be bsk^d, a omnll portion at a time, in an nvpn nn tn a temrprntnre '^f 200**. BAUHINIA and Ceanothus (Crai/1.— The Baubinlas all require sttve treatment ; some are shrubs, others are climber* and require plenty of room. They ftncceed well in a m'xture of loam, ppat, and sand, with good drainage ••nd firm tiottinjr, Thpy may be nropasated by means of cuttings of half-ripened wood. Few of the species flower well in this country. Ceanothtis dlvaricatus Is a hardy shrub, but thrives best in sheltered positions planted in almost any soil, provided that *hp drainage is trond. In the southern parts of the country it does well in the open, but further north has to be trrown ngainst a wall in order that it may be safo from the spring frosts. Among other shrubs in a sheltered border open to the 8ou»h it may be grown *ff''ctlvely. Propagation is effected by cuttings, which should he inserted in sandy soil In a cold frame in the autumn, or by layers, which Is the readiest form of obtnirirestronfl' ninnts qnirkly. Practice of Hybridising {S. C). — The practice of hyhridi-'ing varips somewhat in filfferent plants, thoueh the principle remains the same. It is important to take care that the flower does not ge*" fertilised with its own pollpu or that of any neighbourine plant. Generally speaking it Is necessary to remove the stamens from the flower in order to prevpnt self -fertilisation, and in some classes of plants this must he d^^ne before the flowers open. As a gond example of a flower that posspsaes no abnormal features we may take a Fuchsia bloom which, when first expanded, phows no signs of pollen on the staTuens, while the point of the stirma is ^m-^oth and firm. Then In a day or two the stamens commence to discharge nollen, and the point of the stigma hecomps covered with a e'utinous matter towhich even the tinier* grain of pollen will adhere. This is finally absorbed into the body of the stitrma, and thus completes the act of fertilisation. The flower should certainly be protected from insects directly it opens, in order to ^ard against the possible fertilist^tiop thereby, 48 THE GARDEN. (July 28. 1906. Potato Tumour (Fell Gr«n).— Your Potatoes, it is evident, j'ldcipg by the simple sent, are spverely affected with what is known as PoTato tumonr. It ti simllsr to what is sometimes seen on Beet in the f rm of irregular strange-lookinir black swellintrs or eruptions. Dp. M. C lok*' gives to the di«ea<»e the name of t evidences the presence, in a bad at ate, of rust, so-called, though really a form of fungoid disease. How it originated or whence its source, none can tell, but it is assumed to b" propagated by resting spores in or on the seed tubers. The best course seems to be digging the Pofaro plants upas fast as the tubers can be consumed, and in doing so not to cast the hnulm about on th" ground, but to carry tt carefully away and bum It. If shaken, spores may be liberated and Infect other Potat.o breadths. There is no remedy evidently in the shape of dressing. The ground in which the crop is growing should have a gnoi limine as soon a« cleared, and then he planted with some member of the Cabbage tribe. Horae-srrown seed potatoes, especially In light anils, are not only of we-ker erowth than are northern stocks, but are the more susceptible to this attack of rust. Names of Plants.— G?o. TTa'Arer— Unfortunately, we did not recognise the Rise. If you could send a shoot bearing several b'0">m8, so as to let us see the true charac er of the variPty. we could probably t«>ll you its nnm*>. M R K —1, Msa W. W„ Dundee —I. C'lMstemon salignuq ; 2. Semele (RusfU-) andr.-eyn* ; 3. Euphorbia Bn'pnd^ns; 4 G^steria verrnc >s« ; 5 S'hthnrpia pereg'ina; 6. Echinocystiq loH<4ta. B Bope —1. Soirffii salicifolia p'tniculata ; 2 Thnj i orientHli" var. ; 3 Cuprpssus plaifera plumosa ; 4. Cot-tneaster thymifoUa; 5, Cupreasus law- soniana ; 6 Abies magniflna ; 7, Ceanothns azurem ; 8 B^rberis bnxifnlius. J C. D —1, Deutzia crenata ; 2, Ki'mialatif .lla; 3, Veronica Trovers!. ^rrs. H. W.— PhyllncTctnq crenatus. ^fh's W — P^rlpl'tca giieca M J. K. — Fremootia ca'ifornlca. Seff«'d€.— Sansevleria zeylanica. J. J. A — Lepidinm sativum. SOCIETIES. lata, DianthUF cse^us, Armeria cephalotes, and some Cam- panulas. The discussion which ftJIowed w8« very lengthy and animated. Am-'ng the 'xhihitora Mr. W. Sboeamlth, gardener to F W. Harmer, Esq., Ctingleford, was a good first for Sweet Peas in a strong class, and had several other eond thifgs. Mr F. WiHifim''. gardener to L J. Tillett, Et. Mr. W. Rush; second, Mr. C. Matthews; third, Mr. W. Shoesmilb. BAST ANGLIAN HORTICULTURAL CLUB. The July meeting held at the f^hirehall Hotel, Norwich, was very su'^ceflsful. M*". J P iwlev Dresided. and was •"UODorted by Messrs T B, Field. L Smith, J. Clayton, E Peike. H. Perry, F. Williams, H Goude, W Shoesmlth, W. L. Wallis (sec'-et.ary), and most of the prominent ara»tpur and pr^fesolonal horticulturists of the district. Mr. H B Dibhie, who is much Interested in botanical and hardv plant, aubjents, gave a paper on "The Propsgati >n and Cultivation of the Choicer Hirdy Perennials and Alpine Plant?.'* He said that the subj ct was one which had added many books to h'«rticultural literature, but y»t he felt quite confident in again bringing up the suhjecr. He condemned the svstem of bedding out as generally prac- tised, and aoked where could more form or colour he got than ff-om Li ies and If-Ues. The description of beautiful rock earden flowers and his mode of propagation were very interesting. Bv w«*y of illustrating his paper Mr. Dobhie brought up specimens of Seoeclo japonlca, Ltnarla retiqu- EDINBURGH ROSE SHOW. The Rose show held in the Wavrley Market, Edinburgh, on the IS'h Inst, by the Royal Caledonian Horticultural Society, in conjunction with the National R )se Society. was not so large as was at one time expected. Roses in Scotland are late this season, and some northern exhibi- tors who had entered were unable tn stage their flowers These included such well-known exhibirora as Messrs. Cocke"- and Sons of Aberdeen and Messrs. D. and W. Croll of Dundee, whose absence robbed some of the larger classes of much of their Interest for those who wished to see them pitted against the English growers. The latter, save in a few clapsf^a, had it practic Uy their own way, the m«j irlty of the Scottish blooms being iitferior in quality. The EnglUh trade and amateurs comprised the greater number of the leading exhibitors, and their blooms were, as might be expected, of high quality, both as regards size and colour. Nurserymen, Much interest centred la the Trophy class for thirty-six blooms, open to nurserymen. Here Messrs. Alex. Dkkson and Sons, L'mited, Newtownarda, came first with a lot of •plendid blooms. Including Lady A*th'own, M-s. Myles Kennedy, Mrs. J. Biteman, Ellen Drew, George Dickson (medal bloom). Dean Hole, AUce Lindaell, and many more Messrs. R. Harkuess and Co., Hlichin, carne second with a good lot, among the best being Mildred Giant and Ober- hofgartner Tetk. For seventy-two blooms, distinct varieties, Messrs. Alex Dickson and Sons were first ; second, Mi^ssrs. R Harkneas tnd S »n ; third, Messrs. B R. Ca tt and Sons, Colchester. Twenty-fuur varieties, three of each; First, Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons; second, Messrs. Alex. Dlcksun and S' pns. Thlrty-aix blooms (Division B) : First, Mr. George Prince, Longworth ; second, Messrs. J. Jtfferies and S >n, Ciren- cester; third, Messrs. James Simp«oii and Son<>, Dundee. Sixteen varieties, three of each : First, Mr. G. P-ince Tea and Noisettes, eighteen hloums, distinct : First, Mr. G. Prince ; sesond, M-ssrs, B R. C*iit and S »n8. Twelve varieties: First, Messrs. J. Simpson and Son; second, Messrs. J- J fferies and Son ; third, Messrs. D Prior and Sons, Colchester. Open. Twelve blooms of new Roses, distinct: First, Mr. Hugh Di> kson, Belfast ; second, Messrs. Alex. D.cbson and Suuti ; third, Messrs. Paul and Son, Cheahunt. "Twelve blooms "f any white or yellow Rose : First, Mr. G. Prince, with White M man C ichet ; spcond, M-8*rs Dlcksons and Co. , Edinburgh, with Fr«u Ktrl Druschki ; ihi'd, Messrs. Piul and Son, with the same variety. Twelve light pink or yellow R tses : First, Messrs. Dick- 8 )na and Co., with Mrs. W. J. Grant. Twelve lieht or dark crimson : First, Mr. Hugh Dickson, with J. B. Clark. Twelve txhlhition Rises in vases : First,, Meoars. Dick- sons and Co., Edinburgh ; second, Messrs. A. D ckaou and Sons ; third, Messrs. J, Jrfferiea and S-m. Twelve Tea or Noisette, three of each : First, Mr. G Prince ; second, Messrs. J. JtfFdr^es and Sun ; third, . Messrs. Paul and Son. Eighteen bunches (t decorative R ses, space not to exce»-d 8 feet by 3 fe-*t : First, Mr. J. R. Mat tuck, H^iding- lon, Oxford, with a fine exhibit, liiclndii.g H*-l»-ne, R I'dn, Paplll«m, Gardenia, tiherty, D Tcthy Perkins, L idy Batter- «ea, Priucesae de Balgarie, Mme. Jules (jrokz, Mme. Ravary, Luclda plena, Mdcrantha, &c. ; second, Messrs. PrtUl and Son. Eighteen dec irative Rises In B<«mboo stands: First, Mr. J. R. Mattock ; secoud, Mr. G. Prince ; third, Messrs. Paul and Son. AMATEURS. Jubilee Trophy for twent> -tour blooms, dlatlnct : First, F. Dennison, E>q., £>*nllworth ; secoud, E. B. Liudsell, E'q. ; third, C mwaj Jones, Esq. Thirty-six blooms, rtiailucr : First, F. Dennison, E^q. (nih silver medal for Mrs. John Bateman) ; second, E. B. Lindsell, E q. ; third. R F .ley Hobbs, E^q. Eighteen biooms (fur growers of less thai' 2,000 plant?) ; First, E. Mawley, Esq. ; second, Mahlon Wiuttle, Esq., Leicester. Twelve blooms (open tn growers of leas than 1,000 plants): P'irat, G. Muules, E q., flltchiu. Six tilooms ( oen to gn.w-ra nf less than 500 plants) : First. William Upton. Esq , Leicester. Twelve blooms of Tea and Noisette, distinct ; First, C -nway Jones, Eaq., Gl "uceater. Twelve dis'i'Cu decorative R )'>ea (space not to exceed 6 feet by 3 feet): First, H. V. Mdchin, E q., Leicester; second, R-v. J. H. Pemberton. Six distinct (space not to exceed 3 feet by 3 feel) : First, E. Mawley, E*q. ; second, F. A. Georg-, E q., R:;dhill, Worcester ; third, D. Eraser, E,i(\., Cramoud ^uuse. Seven distinct spfcles or varieties In B«mtK>o stand : First, Rev. J. H. Pem'ierton ; second, H. V. Machin, Kaq. ; third, Mr. D. Kidd, The Girdens, Carbeiry Tower. New Roses. The following were commendt d : Mrs. Stewart Clark (Hybrid Tea).— Daep rose, large. FrMtii Me^«r8. A. D't'kaon and Sons. Lady Muriel Batkjtrst {Decor&tive Tea) —Creamy yellow anu piuk ; small tlower. From Messrs. .T. Jcffertes and Sons. Royal Caledonian Section. The Rosea in this sectiun were restricted to Scottish growers, and were not of such high quality as in the open section. Twenty-four distinct: First, P. Mackenzie, E q., Ardenv.ilir Row; second, W. McDonald, Esq., Manor House, Musselburgh Twelve Hybrid Perpetuala, distinct : J. Lllburn Whyte, E^q., Helensburgh. Twelve Hyr.rid Teas, diatlnct : First, L. Black, Esq., Kiiiglasaie. Twelve Teas, distinct : First, P. Mickeizie, Sweet Peas were well shown, twelve vases : First, A. MBlCi>lm, Eeq , Duns ; second, J. H'ghgate, Eaq., Yeater. Six vasei Malmaison Carnations : First, Mr. D. £ldd, Carberry Tower Gardens. Twelve bunches herbaceous flowers: First, A. Brydon, E q , Innerlei'hen. Twenty-four fancy Pansies : First, C. Cockburn, Esq., Pencniiland. DisplHy uf hardy flowers : First, J. CJocker and Sons, Aberdeen. The fruit was limited in quantity but good for the time of >ear. Black Hamburgh Grapes: First, Mr. T. Bdisaut. White Grapes: First, Mr. T. Young. Peaches: First, Mr. D Kdd. Nectarines. : Fint, Mr. T. Young. Straw- be Ties : First, Mr. R. H. Cuckburn. Yegetaliles were aUo a small class, the prize for the collection going to Mr. W. Harper, TuIIiebeltou. Trade Displajs. The non-competitive extiibitora were comparatively few in number. Messrs. Dobhie and Co., Rothesay, showed hardy flowers. Paloxes, Violas, Carnations, Pelargoniums, wer3 and herbaceous plants. Messrs. Cunningham, Fra^er, and Co., Edinburgh, exhi- bited chulce alpii.ea and hardy flowers. Meaars. G>inn and Suns, OMon, Birmingham, exhibited Phloxes of high quality, admiratily anaug^d. Messrs. S uari and Mein, Eelso, ataged Carnations. Messrs. Campbell and Son, Blaniyre, also staged Curna- tluns. Messrs. Storrie and Storrie made a large and tastefully- arranged exhibit ' f Apples in pots, upwards of 100 varieties u( GooSfcb«ri lea, Currauts, R »*pbenies, and Strawberries, with Streptncarpi, Begouiaa, &c. Mennrs. James Grieve and Suns, Edinburgh, showed bed- ding Violas. Mr. William Angus, Penicuik, showed seedling Carna- tions. Mr. Amos Perry showed Calla Mrs. Rooaevelt and a number > f Nymphfe is. The silver medals for the best blooms were awarded as f lUows : Nurserymen's claasep.— Rose other than Hybrid Tea or Nuiaetie, George Dickeon, shown by Messrs. Alex. Dickson and S ^ns ; Tt-a or N Isetle, Jean Ducher, ♦xbl- ■ited by Mr Hugh D ckaon ; Hybrid Tt-a, Mildred Grant. Amateurs.— Rose other than Hybrid Th^ or N 'isette, Hurac** Vcrnct, from Mr. F. Dennison ; Hybrid Tea, Mrs. John Biteman, shown uy Mr. J. Foley H"0ti8. The receipts amounted to upwards of £160. WEST OF SCOTLAND RoSARIANS' SOCIETY. The ihirty-second annual show of the West of Scotland R.^aari>iUB' Sociery was held at Helensburgh on the llLh Inst., and was, upon the whole, a good one, although not equal in merit to that of last ye>ir. TMi is mniiily owiig to the date being too early for Scutiieh Rose growers this season. As usual, a go id display was made hy the trade exhitii'<-rs, such firms as Messrs. Alex. Dickson and S »na, Nawtownarda (the only Iiiah firm • xhibltlng); Messrs. T. Smith and Sons, Stranraer; Vlessrs. Simpsou and S ins, Dundee ; and Messis. D. R .bertson and Co., H^-leusburgh, being among the principal prize-takers In these classes. The collection of sixty varietl-^a, with which Messrs. Dickson and Sons gained the gold melnl of the 8"ciety, was very flue, note- worthy among the R 'Sea being William Shean and Q leen Alexandra. The tiest Tea or Nfisette in the hall was a tjiuom uf The Bride, exhibited by Mr. William Parlane ; and Mr. J. Lilburn White, Wardfleld, had the best Hybrid P rpetual, ihi'i being a noble bloom of Captain H^yward. Mr. Lilburn While also won Mr. Hugh Dickton's cup for the beat six Ro'ea shown by an amateur. 0;her classes were, as a whole, good, and the seciious for other plants Well contested. HORTICULTURAL SOCIETIES' SCHEDULES. Stockport ani Dutrict —The eighteenth exhiniiion will be hela lu the Volunteer Arm-iury, G'eek Si reet. Stock- nort, on Frid.*y and Saturday, N.jVt-mber 9 and 10. Eutrieo cWme November 3. The hon. secretary is Mr. G. W. Sf'fk. 81) P^terahurg R lad, E igeley, S ockport. Bishop's Start ford. —The thiriy-sevenih summer ahow will lake plicu on Wednesday, August 1, at The Grange, Bishop's Slortford, hy kind nermiasion of John Barker, E-q., J. P. The hon. aecretaiy ia Mr. W. J. Gee. An admirable schedule of prizes has been prepared. GARDEN. No. 1811.— Vol. LXX. August 4, 1906. CARNATION TIME. A T this season of the year, -when the /\ thoughts of gardeners are directed / \ towards the increase of their / % Carnations, the following notes will be found valuable. Peopagation by Layers. Towards the end of July or the beginning of August, when the Carnations are in full bloom, is the time to layer. With a view to doing this, prepare a sufficient quantity of layering soil beforehand, and have other accessories, such as layering pins, in readiness. An excellent mixture for layering is three parts old decayed leaf-mould passed through a fine riddle and one part old mortar rubbish or sand, but any similar light material, such as road scrapings or potting soil, with pleaty of sand added, will answer the purpose. Where the ground is naturally light and sandy, very little if any of such mixture will be necessary, but in stiff soil enough should be used for the layers to root in without their penetrating into the heavier soil underneath. Layer Early. Roots form much more readily in hot, clear weather than when it is dull and wet ; so long as there is plenty of warmth in the ground it is easy to keep them sufficiently moist with the aid of the watering- can, but in a cold, wet season, when the layers have been put down rather late, they have not much chance of forming satisfactory roots before the winter. The side shoots, which spring from the collar of the plant close to the ground, should be firm out not too tough and old. On the other hand, if they are too soft and young they will be very brittle. The soil should be in a nice friable condition, not too dry. Although I seldom use anything to peg down layers myself, as I fiud I can make them stay down very well without, most people prefer to use them, and various things are recommended for this purpose, such as Hazel and other twigs, dry Bracken stems, and even hair-pins, but the most convenient are the wire pegs made specially. Select the best shoots round the collar of the first plant to be operated on and cut off the rest. If the shoots are short six will be enough to layer round each plant, as it is not advisable to have them too crowded. If the grass is long and reaches well away from the plant, you may put down more layers as the circle will be wider. Do not layer any shoots which show signs of throwing out a flower- stem ; these will not be satisfactory. Clear away all superfluous growth from the base of the plant and from the lower parts of the flower-stems, strip off the leaves from the shoots you intend to layer, commencing at the bottotn and taking off all until you come to the third or fourth joint from the top. If the leaves are very firm use a knife or a pair of scissors to cut them off, otherwise it will be quicker to hold the shoot in one hand and i-trip them off with the other by giving them a i-harp twist sideways. Now with the trowel or fork loosen the surface-soil round the plant as deep as pijssible without injuring the roots ; breik it up fine and add some of the pre pared soil, mixing them well together. If the staple soil is heavy use plenty of the light layering soil. Bend the shoot slightly with the left hand so that it comes into a con- venient position, and make a cut rather more than halfway through the under side of the middle of the joint next below the one to which the leaves have been stripped off, and with a turn of the blade continue the cut in an upward direction until the next joint i» reached, thus forming a tongue ; now bend the shoot so that the cut is opened and peg it firmly about 1 inch to 1^ inches deep, or as far as the joint to which you have stripped off the leaves, into the loosened ^oil with one of the layering pins, keeping the shoot as upright as possible. Press the s(iil down round it. and repeat the operation until you have layered all the available shoots. As soon as the work is finished give the layers a good watering with a tine rose to settle the soil round them, and take care that they do not suffer afterwards for want of water. If favourable weather follows the layers should be getting fairly well rooted in about a month or six weeks, but generally speaking the second or third week in October is early enough to think of taking them up in most districts. Cuttings. If there are any particular plants from which one wishes to raise as large a stock as possible, one can strike as cuttings shoots not available for layering. Strip off the foliage in the same way as when preparing them for layering. Cut right through the joint where you would make the tongue when layering. Some growers slit the stems and tritn off the points of the leaves, but 1 do not think anything is gained by doing this. Insert the cuttings 2 inches deep in pots or boxes of fine prepared soil with plenty of sand added, and plunge in a little bottom-heat if available, or in a cold frame shaded from the sun. The boxes should have plenty of drainage, and the soil should be composed of about two parts turfy loam and one part leaf -soil and sand or road tcrapings, making a nice open mixture through which water will quickly pass away. If the cuttings are young and soft they should root freely in a little heat, but if they are rather tough and old they will take longer to form their roots, and will do better in a cold frame ; the tougher cut- tings are, however, the most reliable in the end. Cuttings may be struck in the open, and in some districts where the s-oil is suitable they root freely ; but the soil should be of a light sandy nature and well drained. It is of little use trying to strike cuttings in stiff, heavy, or badly drained ground. This method of raising border Carnations should after all only be resorted to when a sufiicient stock cannot be procured by layering. The plants raised from cuttirigs, though they will dower well and are very suitable for growing in pots, do not make such strong plants as layers. Maeguekite Carnations. The Marguerite Carnation, which I think is a somewhat overrated flower, cannot be compared with the ordinary border type. They are best treated as annuals, and raited from seed sown in heat in the early spring in the same way as ordinary border Carnations, but as they flower the same season they should be planted out as soon as they are large enough, and should be in bloom during August and September. They are effective in the border, as they produce an abundance of double and single blossoms in a considerable variety of colours, but there is one great drawback to them, the flowers are easily fertilised and produce seed freely, and as a consequence they soon fade and are there- fore not satisfactory for cutting. If desired the plants may be potted and kept in the open during the summer and brought into the greenhouse in September to flower during the late autumn, but in this case the seed should not be sown until the beginning of April in order that they may bloom later. Classification of Border Carnations. Border Carnations may be divided into five different classes : 1. Selfs, which are flowers having only one colour. 2. Flakes are flowers with a white ground, streaked with some other colour along the petals. 3. Bizarres, having a white ground, with streaks of more than one colour along the petals. 4. Picotees have either a white or yellow ground, with another colour round the edge of the petals. 5. Fancies include all other flowers which have coloured markings on a coloured ground. The selfs are the most useful for growing in the border, and they are, generally speak- ing, more robust and hardy than the others. Under all but the most favourable conditions as to soil and climate, Picotees are not satis- factory in the open. W. A. Watts. {SO THE GARDEN. [August 4, 1906. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. AWARDS IN THE COMPETITION "HOW TO LAY OUT A FLOWER GARDEN OF HALF AN ACRE." The first prize of four guineas is awarded to Miss M. Agar, Hillside, Milford-on-Sea. The second prize of two guineas to the Hon. Mrs. Guy Baring, 16, Cadogan Square, S.W. The third prize of one guinea to Misa Parr, Molesoroft, Bromley, Kent. The fourth prize of half-a-guinea to Mies E. K. Franklin, 12, Queen's Road, Coventry. Although many competed, the essays and plans proved disappointing on the whole, the latter especially being poor. No. 1 is better than No. 2, in that it provides shade to tennis lawn, although no seats are indicated on the shady side. No. 2 has good ideas and a simple arrangement, though some opportunities have been missed, such as that of planting Yews to shade diagonal seats at the south-west and south-east angles of the main garden. No. 4 has interesting features, and would have taken a better place but that the drawing of the paths by the lawn and rock garden is very weak. They wriggle unpleasantly and quite unnecessarily ; also the beds on the lawn spaces are of bad shape. The papors sent in bv the following are com- mended : M. Millard, Hartley Wintney, Winch- field ; Mrs. Arthur Eastwood, Leigh Court, Taunton ; F. Rigers, Danovan House Gardens, Danny, N B. ; W. Martin, 3, Diuglass Cottages, Shirley Road, Sidcup, Kent ; Mrs. Augusta S. Matthews, 9, Stoke Line, Westbury-on-Trym, near Bristol ; Miss Rachel Bircleay, Mawnan, Falmouth ; E. A. Patch, 1, Spring Gardens, Baddingham, Lewes ; K. Edmond Jenkins, Bryn Darwen, Sketty, R S O., Glamorgan ; William Spillar, 8, Southwalk Terrace, Dorchester, Dor- set ; J. B. Nay lor, 5, St. Mark's Road, Bueh Hill Park, Enfield ; H. Wilson, Jerviaton House, Motherwell, Lanarkshire, N B. ; A. E. Jones, Chearsly, near Aylesbury ; Adam 0. Main, The Gardens, Wishaw House, Wishnw, Lanarkshire ; F. Marshall, The Mount, Ifield, Crawley, Sussex ; Alfred Gardner, Botanischer Garten, Berlin 57, W., Postdamershasse 75; H. Divies, Railway Cottages, H'irton, near Chester : and Miss Clare Woolmer, 29, Welbeck Street, London, W. address of the competitor must be written upon the MS , and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors. NOTES OF THE WEEK. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. AUGUST. PRESERVING FRUITS FOR WINTER USE. A Firat Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Pri*e of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best essays on this subject. By preserving fruits is meant their preserva- tion, either whole or cut, as the case may be, in bottles or jars. Where it is thought that a simple sketch (which must be upon a separate piece of paper) would help to make the meaning clearer, it should be given. Sketches, however, are not essential. The remarks (limited to 1,500 words) must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked " Competition," addressed to "The Editor of Thb Gabdbn, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than August 31. Both amateur and professional gar- deners may compete ; it is hoped, however, that those who contribute regularly to the pages of T^B Gabdbn will not do so. The name aiid FORTHCOMING EVENTS. August 6. — Wells, Ilkeston, Presoot, Lichfield, Atherstone, Grantham, and Haddington Flower Shows. August 8. — Dublin Flower Show. August 14. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition and Meeting ; Clay Cross and Exmouth (two days) Flower Shows. August 16. — Taunton Deane Flower Show. August 18. — Sheffield, Seascale, and Lake District Flower Shows. August 21. — Brighton Flower Show (two days). August 2.'. — Shrewsbury Floral Fete (two days) ; Harpenden Flower Show. "The Queen's ^Vild Garden." — There is now on view at the Mendoza •■allery, 157a, New Bond Street, a collection of water- colour drawings of " The Qaeen's Wild Garden and Woods Round Sandringham," by H. Sylvester Stannard, R.B.A. The drawings are chiefly of the woodland, although those showing a carpet of Bluebells in the Queen's Ride, " The not grow Onions near the same site, if possible, and thin early. Are your plants very thick, or in a badly-drained soil? Lose no lime in dressing, as it will attack other vegetables. TflRIPS ON Peas {E. M. H). — The Pea haulm sent has been attacked by ihrips owing to the excessive heat, and the roots may be in a dry soil. We fear now you have no remedy with plants so far advanced, but in future when the pest first appe>irs syringe freely with a sulphur solution, or with Quassia. If this is done several evenings In succes- sion it will get rid of the pest. The blossom on the haulm sent is ruined, so that now it would be too late to save the plants. MISCELLANEOUS. Melon Seeds Germinating {A. D).—lt Is by no means an unusual occurrence when a Melon is cut open to find that some of the seeds have germinated, but in the case of the fruit you mention the growth of the seedlings appears to h«ve been particularly rapid.— G. S. S. SonM ON Pond {D. Phillips).— Ihe scum on the surface of your lake is composed of myriads of one of the fiesb water algae, belonging to the family Desmiditte and to the genus Cumarium. The only means of destioylug this organism that I can suggest is by spraying either with Bordeaux Mixture ot with copper sulphate in the propor- tion o( seven grains to every 1.000 gallons of water ; this strength is said not to injure Hater plants or fluh. You might remove most of the scum with a net somewhat similar to those used by shrimpers, but the bag must be made of canvas or some material which will not let the scum pass. — G. S. S. Names op Fruits (IT. Lam).— The red Raspberry is Hornet and the yellow one Yellow Antwerp; both are excellent varieties. Tbe first named somewhat resembles Superlative, but we think tbe growth is more like tbe Hornet. Names of Plants —H. A.—l, Iris orlentalis ; 2, Splriea canescens. Enquirer. — 1 and 2, Campanula latifuUa vars. ; 3, C. peisiciloiia -, 4, Spi.ffii, but cannot identify specific name from the specimen sent ; 5, Deutzia crenata a. -pi. ; 6, Eiigeron muitiradiains. J. E. M. F.—l, Sedum sexairguUre ; 2, S. album ; 3, S. hispauicum ; 4, S. Telephlum ; 5, S. acre (common S_onecrop). Ama- teur.—Ot the specimens sent we could only identify the lollowing ; the others were too scrappy. 3, Pteris cretica albti-liueata; 7, Adianturacuneatum graciUlmum ; 9, Pteris serrulata; 10. Aspidium angulare ; 12, Nephrodlum Fiilx- mas ; 15, Mimulus gluiinosus var. ciistata ; 16, an Ivy (Hedera Holu glomerata) ; 17, Sidalcea maivsedora ; 18, Pulemonium cteruleum ; 19, Achillea Fllipeuduia ; 22, Adiantum cuneatum. A. J. King.—Vtetet, Limbourg. Sarum —The cluster R jse is Ophlr, and the pink variety Mme. Abel Chatenay. Mrs Stanley.— M^ai probably Suuv. de Wm. Rjbiuson. E. B. — l, Relino- ^por.> flllfera; 2, Cephalotaxus pedunculata fistlgiata ; 3. Retinospora piumosa aurea ; 4, Achillea Pcarmica The Pearl. O. S. W. IT.— Funkia ovata. Donil Dim.— Liuaria purpurea ; the other is the broad-leaved SMXifraga or Megasea, but please send when in flower. Miss L — There is such a plani as Si-lalcea spicata, a native of Cali- tornia, but we cannot say what yours is without seeing it. B. B. B.— The Puppy is not new, though interesting ; a go.»d garoen plant. B. B — The examples sent are not flowering shrubs, but herbaceous perenninls. 1, Tunica Saxifraga; 2, Orobus probably, but impossible to name (rom leaves alooe, LEGAL POINTS. Exhibits {Constant Reader). — We do not see how what he dues can eotitanical Suciety. The claBses were well cuniested throughout, while the quality was of a high standard. NURSEKYMEN. For sixty dtatinct bluunia eight lots were staged, tbe premier award going to Messrs. D. Prior and Sons, Col- chester; seconri, Messrs. B. R Cant and Sons, Culcheater; third, Messrs. Frank Cant and Co., Colchester. For tblrty-stx distinct blooms, Messrs. James Townsend and Sons, Wotcester, g ined the first position ; Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Son^, Newtownards, and Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons took the remHining awards. F4ir twenty-four Teas or Noisettes, Messrs. B. R. Cant and Sons led the way. For twelve Teas or Noisettes, the winners were Mr. G. Prmce, Longworth, Messrs. D. Prior and Sons, and Alex. Dickson and Sons in the order given. For twelve llaht blooms (me variety), Messrs. J. Town- SRUd won with fli)e blooms of Bossle Biown ; second, the King's Acre Company, Hertfi.rd, with the same variety ; Mr. a. Prince, with White Maman Cochet, was third. For twelve dirk Roses, Messrs. D. Prior and Sons and Mussrs. B. R. Cant, both with Horace Vernet, were first and second respectively; Messrs. Townsend won the remaining prize with A. K. Williams. Open Classbs. For display of Roses. Mr. G. Prtuce was first with a fine group ; second, Mr. J. Mattock, Oxford ; third, Mr. J. Birrow. For three bouquets, Mr. John Mutock was successful, and for the single basket, Mr. J. Nixjn, gar- dener to O. R ibinson, Eaq., Alderley Edge. For twelve bunches, Mr. Mattock was first. Amateurs. Twenty-four distinct bloomti : First, Mr. R. Foley Hobbs, Worcester ; Rev. J. H. Pemberton, second ; Mr. W. Boyes, third. For twelve blooms the prizemen were Mr. Foley Hobba, the Rev. J. H. Pemberton, and Mr. W. Dennlson in the order given. For eighteen Teas or Noisettes Messrs. Conway Jones, Gloucester, Foley Hobbs, and R. Park, Bedale, were placed first, second, and third respectively. For twelve Teas or Noisettes the winn^-rs were Messrs. Foley Hobbs, Conway Jones, and H. V. M>chin, Woiksop. Fur twelve single inist-es of a dark Rose, Mr. H. V. Machin won with A. K. Williams; and for twelve light blooms Mr. Foley Hobbs was first with Bessie Brown. Sweet Peas. Tbe society's silver medal for the best collection went to Mr. J. Derbyshire, Hale, for a grand lot. For not less than twenty-five varietieii the prizemen were Mr. £. Royle, gardener to F. Smith, Kaq , Buwden, Mr. G. Rnudes, Aitrincbam, and Mr. J. Cruigb in tbe order given. Fur rwelve varieties tbe successful exblnitors were Messrs. G. Rhodes, W. H. Cross, and T. A. Peeters. NON-COMPETITIVB EXHIBITS. Silver medals were awarded tu Messrs. Clibran, Aitrin- cbam, for herbaceous cut flowers; and Messrs. Caldwell, Kiiuiiif rd, for herbaceous cut flowers and Roses. Mr. P. Weatht;rs, as usual, carried out the duties to the satisfac- tion of all. DONCASTER GARDENERS' SWEET PEA SHOW. The D.tncaster and district gardeners and amateur gar- deners held their annual Sweet Pea show in the long room at the Wellington Hotel, Doiicaster, on tbe 19 h ult., there being a very fine display. There was a large attendance of memoers and visiiois. The leadingcluss was fjr a culUciion of iwelve varieties «tf Sveet Pcjas, distinct (prizes given by Mr. Robert Sydenham). In this class the flrat prize was awurded to Mr. Gray. Birnby Dun ; second, Mr. Wiles, Djncasttr; third, Mr. Gdytborpe, Djncaster. At the close there was a collection on behalf of the Don- caster Royal Infirmary, andja large quantity of flowers were sent to that instHutlon, • Supplement to THE GARDEN, August 4th, 1906. EMPRESS PANSIES. I &' Kcarns, Printers, London. S.E. GARDEN. -y^- No. 1812.— Vol. LXX. August 11, 1906. THE RASPBERRY. THEKE are certain natural conditions both as to soil and position which favourably or otherwise affect the successful cultivation of all fruits, and the most successful cultivator is he who understands these conditions, and who does his best to supply them. This is specially true of the Raspberry. In order to bring it to the highest state of perfection it should be planted in well-drained, deep, friable, rather heavy loam, and in a cool position. A north border, under a wall for instance, suits it to perfection. Where such a position is not available it must be situated as far removed from the full glare of the mid- day sun as possible. After saying this 1 must add that splendid crops of this fruit may be obtained with good cultivation from any ordinary good garden soil, but it is useless to plant the Raspberry on poor, thin, sandy, or gravelly soil. Once a plantation of this fruit is formed, with intelligent and generous cultivation it will afterwards remain in good profit for any number of years, from fifteen to twenty, or longer ; and as the surface of the soil between the plants cannot be dug once the roots are well established in the soil on account of the Raspberry being a surface rooter, it follows that the soil must be well prepared to receive the plants in the first place. Therefore, those who may be contemplating the planting of Raspberries, either for sale or home consump- tion, should lose no time in selecting a position in which to plant them. The position being selected, the next important work to attend to will be the preparation of the land. This should be trenched from %\ feet to 3 feet deep, and a supply of stable-yard or cow-shed manure applied at the rate of from thirty to forty tons to the acre, laying the manure in the middle and top spits as the trenching proceeds and not at the bottom. Planting. From the end of October to the end of November is the best time to plant, and the root suckers which spring up some distance from the plants are the best to use. They should be planted in rows 5 feet apart, and 3 feet between plant and plant in the row. Care must be taken not to plant them too deeply ; 2 inches below the surface is deep enough for the crown of the plant to be placed. A dry day should be selected for planting, and the ground should be made firm about the roots by gently treading. The canes at planting time should be from 3 feet to 5 feet long, and these, in the course of the winter, should be shortened to 18 inches, as they must not bear fruit the following summer. From the base of these shoots will issue the following spring from three to six new canes. As soon as these are from '2 feet to 3 feet long cut away the previous year's shoots (which have been shortened) down to the ground in order to give the new canes every chance to develop into strong ones during the summer, and thus prepare them to supply a good crop of fruit the following season. Once the plants are established their successful culture afterwards is of the simplest description. Still, there are a few points which must be observed and attended to if permanent success is to be secured. One is, the ground must be kept free from weeds. Never dig amongst the roots. Give a top dressing of short manure every autumn, and mulch the ground with littery manure in hot weather in summer, and, if possible, give a good watering of moderately weak manure water from the stable yard just before the blossoms expand, and again while the fruit is swelling. This, of course, is not absolutely necessary, but it will greatly help to improve the quality and weight of crop if applied. Pruning. The time to prune the Raspberry is as soon as all the fruit has been picked. It consists of cutting clean away down to the ground all the old canes which have borne fruit as soon as possible after they have done fruit- ing. This will give the current year's new canes more room, and a freer exposure to light and air, with the result that much heavier and better crops will be secured the following year. It is an absolute waste, and a certain evidence of bad cultivation, to leave this old growth on the plants until the following winter. Gathering Raspberries. It is not everyone who knows how to pick this fruit. The inexperienced will invariably pull the fruit downwards, with the result that the tiny fruiting branch on which it, and other immature ones grow is broken, and the latter fruits are sacrificed. On the other hand, if the fruit is lifted up instead of being pulled down, it will come off much easier and no damage is done. Supports for thk Canes. I prefer the old way of tying the canes to a stake. Others prefer posts and wires. If the latter be adopted the posts should be 5 feet above ground and 9 feet apart, and the wires 10 inches apart. At the end of the summer the young canes should be shortened to 5 feet, and no further pruning or shorten- ing will be necessary. The next operation will be to secure them to the wires or the stakes, as the case may be, with tarred cord any time before Christmas. Some train the Raspberry on arches over walks. They are more or less ornamental in this way, but they succeed better when trained as above de- tailed. At the time of cutting out the old canes which have fruited, if there are more than five young canes starting from the base of each plant, the weakest should be cut out, not more than five being left. This, in my experience, gives better results in every way than if more than five are permitted to grow. Autumn Fruiting. It is possible occasionally to take two crops off the Raspberry during one year, but it is at the expense of the well-being of the plant, and more or less at a sacrifice of the summer crop. Moreover, there is no certainty of securing an autumn crop in this way when wanted. The proper course to take to secure an autumn crop is to cut away all the canes of last year's growth down to the ground in winter or early spring. The summer crop will be sacrificed by doing this, but a certain autumn crop will be secured on the canes of the ensuing summer's growth. This crop is never so heavy as the summer one, but it makes up for this by prolonging the time in which this valuable and much-appreciated fruit may be obtained fresh for dessert. Propagation. Root suckers, as I said before, are the best, as they grow more freely and establish them- selves in less time than do pieces taken from the stool of the old plant. When the former are not to be had the latter will do very well. The time already recommended for planting is the time to carry out this work. Whether these root suckers are required for planting or not they should be taken up in autumn and planted in the reserve garden for future 62 THE GARDEN. [Attoust 11, 19C6. use or for sale, as if permitted to remain between the rows they will soon be choked up and spoil the permanent plants. Vakieties. We have no other red variety which can approach Superlative in vigour of growth and fertility, or in size, substance, and firm- ness of flesh. The flavour is excellent, there- fore, I say, plant Superlative. It is by far the most lucrative to grow. Other good red varieties are — Hornet, Norwich Wonder, and Carter's Prolific. Golden Varieties — The Guinea, Yellow Antwerp, and Crosse Blanche. Autumn Fruiters— Belle de Fontenay and Yellow Four Seasons. Owen Thomas. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. AUGUST. PRESERVING FRUITS FOR "WINTER USE. A First Ptizc of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourtli Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best essays on this subject. By preserving fruits is meant their preserva- tion, either whole or cut, as the case may be, in bottles or jars. Where it is thought that a simple sketch (which must be upon a separate piece of paper) would help to make the meaning clearer, it should be given. Sketches, however, are not essential. The remarks (limited to 1,500 words) must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked "Competition," addressed to "The Editor of The Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than August 31. Both amateur and professional gar- deners may compete ; it is hoped, however, that those who contribute regularly to the pages of Thb Garden will not do so. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS. , and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. August 14. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition and Meeting ; Clay Cross and Exmoutb (two days) Flower Shows. August 16. — Taunton Deane Flower Show. August IS — Sheffield, Seascale, and Luke District Flower Shows. The best Flag Irises.— I was very pleased to see Mr. Goodwin's noie on Flag Irises, which at preeent are suffering ill-deserved neglect. If there could be an Iris show it would call attention to their merits. On June 8 I went to the largest herbaceous people in the West for the express purpose of seeing any new sorts, but on enquiring for them was told "Oh ! no, it is no use our growing them, as nobody wants them.' When people see my collection they invariably exclaim, "Oh! I had no idea Flags were so beautiful or had so many colours." I started my collection some fourteen years ago, and have now some ninety sorts. Those Mr. Goodwin mentions are very good, and I suppose very few people would pick out the same best twelve, but if he has not the following I am sure their addition to his will please him : Princess of Wales, the best white self ; His Majesty and Frautlieb, pink self, better than Queen of May ; Mr. Newbronner, best yellow self ; Celeste, pale lavender ; Liberia, dark self ; Darius, R Burns, Dr. Bernice, Hy. Collins, Ganymede, and Bronze Beauty. — G. Padbdry, Coombefielils, Axminster. Mr. Wythes and Syon House Gardens. — We are very sorry to hear that Mr. Wyihes has been compelled to resign the charge of these famous gardens through ill-health and an alteration in the management. Mr. Wythes has for years past devoted his energies to the upkeep of this historic place, and carried out many great improvements. He is one of England's best gardeners, skilful in management and in the raising of new vegetables, and an accomplished judge. For upwards of twenty years Mr. Wythes has assisted us in our work by contributing practical and interesting articles on fruits and vegetables, and it is pleasant to know that help will be continued. We wish Mr. and Mrs. Wythes long and happy days in their retire- ment from a busy and arduous life. Mr. Wythes' duties cease on September '29 next. Late Broccoli. — Ooe is pleased to see so favourable a comment on Sutton's Late Qaeen Broccoli by such an experienced grower as Mr. Wythes. That it is worthy of the award of merit obtained at Wieley no one will question who has grown it to perfection. At Wieley I note the heads were at perfection by the middle of April. Throughout the Midlands and further north it is rarely fit to cut before the first week in May when grown in the open quarter, and generally runs well into June before all are cut, which makes it much more valuable for small gardens. Many amateurs make a great mistake in not growing more Broccoli than they usually do. The length of time they are on the ground and the little extra trouble entailed by lay- ing them with their heads to the north deter many, as being waste of ground and time. But they need not be on the same piece of ground the whole time ; they may be shifted to another piece entirely in November which has had a crop of Peas, Beans, Onions, kc, taken off, thus giving the ground on which they have stood the summer and autumn a chance of being broken up and manured ready for another vegetable in the early spring, thus securing a rotation without unduly taxing the ground. It is a good plan to place them a little closer together in the new quarters, as the growth in spring is not nearly so rank as the autumn growth usually ig when these plants are doing well. — J. C. W. Ppimula kewenela.— The note by Mr. Bateson in The Garden of the 28 th ult. on the peculiarity of this hybrid is of great value to anyone interested in the genus Primula. How- ever, the perplexing question, viz , "How it is that P. kewensis has been converted from an absolutely sterile hybrid to one which produces seed freely," still remains unanswered. In the note referred to a distinction between the " thrum - eyed " type and the form having "exsert" anthers, which is really of the "pin- eyed" type, is pointed out. Mr. Bateson, the president of the recent Conference on Hybridisa- tion and Plant Breeding, has since suggested that before this hybrid produced "exsert" anthers pollination from the short stamens had been over- looked. Such, however, was not the case. When P. kewensis was first grown in Messrs. James Veitch and Son's nursery every flower was decidedly of the "pin-eyed" type. At that time many attempts were made to effect fertilisa- tion, but all proved futile. For this reason it was frequently described as a " mule," and of necessity had to be propagated vegetalively. Since this was the only means of propagation, it followed that only "pin-eyed" forms could be produced. This is exactly in accordance with Mr. Bateson's observation of the flowers in his possession. The remarkable thing is that the decidedly "pin-eyed" form has been modified to produce "exsert" anthers, and since this occur- rence every plant bearing such a character is capable of freely producing fertile seed, which property is imparted to the offspring. When experimenting with Primula, Darwin showed that complete fertility (i e., a full yield of fertile seed) is only obtained when pollen is taken from long stamen to long style and from short to short, which, of course, involves cross-fertilisation. Now it is obvious that such cannot take place with P. kewensis, which is apparently all "pin- eyed.'' It is still noticeable that plants bearing all decidedly " pin-eyed " flowers do not produce seed, whereas those with " exsert " anthers set freely even without artificial pollination. ThuR it would seem that the production of " exsert " anthers is the result of a special effort on the part of the hybrid in order to ensure sexual reproduc- tion.— Herbert Cowley. The late Mr. W^illiam Chester.— The sudden death of Mr. Chester, head gardener at Chatsworth, on the 28th ult. has removed a man of singular and interesting personality. Singular because he had the unique experience and honour of serving in the garden of a noble family for the long and unbroken period of fifty - two years under three Dukes of Devonshire. It is interesting because of his close association with Mr. Paxton in his early days, and also afterwards more or less with the triumphs of Sir Joseph Paxton in his later work, and also with the continuous good work which has been carried on in this noble garden from that time till now. He was a type of man that is, I am afraid, less common now than used to be the case thirty or forty years ago. Duty was his first care, and loyalty to this was the dominating feature of his life. There is no doubt that the possession of this quality secured him the position of head gardener when it became vacant in 1891. He was a man that respected himself and claimed the respect of all who knew him. He was a good all-round gardener, but I think his heart was ever in the great conservatory over which he had charge for so many years. Few men have been followed to their last resting- place with a more genuine feeling of sorrow than was manifested by the large concourse of friends which followed his remains to Edensor Church- yard on the 31st ult.— T. Sweet Peas at Kew.— The groups of Sweet Peas, varying in size from 3 feet to 15 feet in circumference, are one of the most attractive features in the herbaceous border at the present time. Many of the leading varieties are repre- sented, one variety only being planted in one group. White sorts are represented by Dorothy Eckford, the best white either for decoration or show, robust in growth, and covered with flowers ; and Mont Blanc, 2 feet to 3 feet in height, the first to open its flowers, and still producing them in profusion from the top of the haulm to the ground. Dora Breadmore is vigorous in growth, and has large creamy white hooded flowers onlongstems. Daintyiswhite,tintedwith pink, which is more prevalent in some flowers than others. Agnes Johnson, cream, shaded with pink, might be described as flesh pink, a very pleasing shade of colour ; Jeannie Gordon, a free- flowering variety, rose, shaded cream, tall grower. Gladys Unwin is a large bold flower, often producing four blooms on a stem, pale rosy pink. The group labelled Countess Spencer represents several shades of pink, showing the sporting tendencies of this variety. John logman, a splendid addition, bright rosy carmine, very large flowers, a good percentage of which are four on a stem ; Bolton's Pink, a very pleasing shade, large flower ; Phyllis Unwin, bright rosy carmine self, very similar to John Ingman. Miss Willraott is here a mass of flowers, rose-pink, standard slightly tinged with orange. Tne latter shade of colour is much more marked in the flowers of Evelyn Byatt, wings slightly deeper in colour ; this is a decided acquisition. Prima Donna, August 11, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 63 soft piok, rather email flowers ; Coccinea, ceriee, not a very vigorous grower ; Scarlet Gem, a very bright flower when it opens, but burns badly ; King Edward VII., bright crimson, very attrac- tive, strong grower, and altogether a desirable variety ; Lidy Grisel Hamilton, pale lavender, a pleasing shade of colour. Quite as beautiful, but of a much deeper shade, is the violet blue Romolo Piazzani, a grand flower slightly hooded. Navy Blue, bright purple standards and violet wings, seen here in a mass is very striking ; Black Knight, deep maroon, vigorous and free flowering. Near the Palm House a large bed is also devoted to Sweet Peas ; twelve of the varieties before mentioned are planted in groups, forming a triangle or wedge-shaped mass of each sort. Especially good are Djrothy Eckford, Gladys Unwin, and King Edward VII. — A. N. The Tree Lupine.— I endosea photograph of Tree Lupines, yellow and white mixed. They were raised from seed sown in the autumn of 1904. They scented the whole garden. The part nearest the gate had to be severely cut back last autumn, and the blooms are thicker there in consequence. — Edith P. Keep, Oak Sill, East Bvdleigh, South Dtvon. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anything of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub, Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Sweet Pea with Five Flowers. Another correspondent, Mr. R. Bellerby, Askham Bryan Gardens, York, sends a spray of a Sweet Pea bearing five blooms. This, together with the many fine flowers of other varieties sent by Mr. Bellerby, shows that they have been splendidly grown. The flowers were large and tbe colours rich. Seedling Border Carnations. From The Gardens, Abney House, Bourne Ead, Bucks, Mr. T. Waller, gardener to A. C. Ham- mersley, Esq., sends a beautiful lot of seedling Cirnations in great variety. The flowers comprise selfs, flakes, bizarres, and Picotees, and are a most creditable lot. Mr. Waller writes as follows : "I am sending you a few seedling Carnations for 1906, also some flowers that I have grown from my own seed previous to 1906. I generally save the seed by potting a few plants and flowering them under glass, where the seed generally ripens about the end of September. I wonder more amateurs do not save their own seed, as it is most interesting to have a bed of your own seedlings flowering, and there are always a few worth perpetuating. I never save from any flowers with buret calyces, as they are useless for cut flowers." Pansy Virgin Queen. Mr. Arthur Y'jung, Oxted Nursery, Oxted, sends flowers of a very pretty white Pansy called Virgin Queen. Mr. Young sends it to show how well it does on bis light sandy eoil. A liberal dressing of cow manure is given. It is a very useful variety for cutting, ae the flowers stand up well and the stalks are long. It was sent out by Messrs. Todd of Edinburgh THE GREENHOUSE. MIGNONETTE IN POTS. IT would appear superfluous to dwell upon the importance of having a few pots of this deliciously sweet-scented plant for the embellishment of the greenhouse or con- servatory during the winter and spring months, yet, singular to relate, it is often conspicuous by its absence, and more rare still are really fine specimen plants to be found. Although the successful cultivation of Mignonette in pots certainly requires some close attention, yet with ordinary care and the intelligent application of the water-pot there is no reason why anyone having the convenience should not be successful with its cultivation. Placed in the order of importance the chief points to remember are : The correct time of sowing ; a moist, cool, shady position during early autumn ; a very firm root run ; lime rubble mixed with the potting com- post ; and that forcing must not be attempted. Sow Nos'. The first half of August is usually considered early enough for seed sowing. Use clean, well- on the very brightest days, when a light shade will assist the foliage to retain its deep green colour. So far we have not mentioned watering, perhaps the most important point of all, for no plant we are acquainted with is more sensitive to an overdose of water during the autumn and winter. Therefore always make a point of sounding the pots by giving a sharp rap with the knuckles, and unices a hollow ringing sound is given out withhold water until this sound is produced, however long the interval. When the seedlings are about 3 inches high reduce them to five in each pot. At this stage it would be well to divide the batch into two — the one for winter-flowering, and the other for spring. The latter should have all the flower- buds pinched out and be encouraged to make roots freely. On the other hand, the winter- flowering plants do not require any pinching, but ehonld be taken into the heated greenhouse shortly after the Chrysanthemums are housed. They will then commence to flower freely, and will continue throughout the winter with the assistance of an occasional dose of any approved fertiliser. The late or spring- flowering plants should be kept as cool as possible ; in fact, a cold frame or tree lupine at oak hill, east budlbioh, raised from seed sown in the autumn of 1904. drained d-inch pots for the purpose, placing ten seeds in each pot, eventually reducing that number to five. The compost should consist of two parts fibrous loam, one part leaf-soil, one part lime rubble, half part thoroughly pulverised cow manure, and half part each of silver sand and wood ashes. This compost should be rammed into the pots as firmly as it is possible to make such a compost. If it is thoroughly blended it will be quite porous, in spite of all the hard ramming with the potting stick, except, perhaps, where very heavy loams are used, when it would be safest to test a few pots by watering thoroughly before sowing the seed. The best position in which to stand the pots after sowing is com- pleted is a cold frame facing north ; moisten the surroundings twice daily with the syringe to maintain a cool, moist atmosphere, which will greatly Eissist the germination of the seed. When the seedlings are well through the soil give more light and air, bringing the pots close to the glass to ensure a sturdy habit of growth, '^o s.— T*« Editor intemU to make The Gakdkn helpful to all readers who deaire assisl- ance, no matter what the branch of gardening may be, and urith that object will make a special feature of the" Anewen to Correspondents" column. All communications should be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Bditob of THB Gakdkk, to, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the PuBLIBHEB. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. FLOWER GARDEN. BoBDBR Plants {Af. A. M.). — Assuming that the' border is more or less given over to early- flowering bulbous plants, we should think a few permanent groups of Lilies for later display would be of service. Of these, such as croceum, tigrinum, speciosum, Martagon, candidum, and others would make a good display. In addition you could plant Galtonia candicans, Alstrcemerias, Montbretias, and such like, all of which are quite hardy and free flowering. Such plants as *Violas, *PentBtemons, •Antirrhinums, *Carna- tions. Pinks, Dalphiniums, Phloxes, Coreopsis, Michaelmas Daisies, Gaillardias, single and double Pyrethrums, double Arabis, many varieties of Campanulas, and others are readily increased by cuttings or division of the roots. Those marked by an asterisk are best when renewed annually from cuttings ; but in the case of Carnations layering is the more usual method. Plantains on Lawn (O. H. W.). — The most effective way of ridding your lawn of this trouble- some weed is to employ a man (or a woman or boy would do) early in September to cut out the weeds by the root. There is no other effective way of destroying them. The best way to set about the work is to have a partly worn-out table-knife with a sharp-pointed blade, and with this to cut the tap-root of each plant at least 3 inches below the surface, picking up the plants at the same time until every one has been got rid of. When the lawn is so badly affected by Plantain as you say yours is, by the time the process of uprooting the weeds has been finished its surface will appear somewhat bare of grass. This cannot be helped, and no time should be lost in top-dressing the lawn with rich, fine garden soil to the depth of a quarter of an inch, sowing at the same time in it the best lawn grass seed at the rate of 1^ pecks per acre, raking it in and rolling when the weather is calm and the soil fairly dry. By following this treatment the lawn will soon be green again , and by adding a sprinkling of bone-dust, and the same of nitrate of soda towards the end of the following March, a beautiful green sward should be secured for the summer, especially if rolling after light showers be frequently practised. A strict look-out must be kept that no Plantains are left in the turf, for if allowed to go to seed the lawn will soon be as bad as before. Sprtng Beds {B. N. P.).— One is rather handicapped in advising on the subject of your letter by the fact that no mention is made of the size or shape of the beds in question. Of dot plants to associate with spring bedding shrubs are the only things that are available, and unless they are allowed to remain permanently their use can be scarcely recommended. We are inclined to broad and simple effects rather than complicated designs, and would suggest a centre of Forget-me-nots edged with red Daisies or dark Wallflowers edged with Forget-me-nots, while dark- coloured Pansies form a good setting for the pale blue of the Myosotis. Pansies, too, form an effective carpeting from whence Tulips or Hyacinths may be allowed to spriog, while seedling Polyanthuses are very effective when a good-sized bed is filled entirely with them. Various combinations may be formed of bulbs alone, but in every case there is a certain amount of stiffness and formality. A large round bed, which last spring pleased us much, had a centre of Forget-me-not, surrounded by the double-flowered Arabis, and edged with a purplish-tinted Pansy, while another, principally consisting of the above- named Arabis interspersed with Anenome fulgens, was very noteworthy. Chetsanthbmum Leaves Attacked by Celery Fly (E. Letchford). — The leaves are attacked by what is known as the Celery fly. This fly frequently does considerable injury to the leaves of Chrysanthemums by boring small channels between the two surfaces. In future years, during May and June, syringe the foliage of the plants frequently with a solution of paraffin. This should be prepared as follows : Place a piece of bath brick in a wooden pail and pour as much paraffin oil on it as it will absorb. Then fill the pail with water, and leave it thus three or four days, subsequently removing the scum from the surface before syringing with this insecticide. In this way it is possible to apply the solution evenly by the aid of a fine syringe, which will act as a deterrent to the fly, and in consequence leave the plants unharmed. As the leaves of your plants are infested with this pest, the only remedy you have is that of hand picking. With the aid of a penknife the maggot may be released and destroyed. This is rather a tedious operation, but if the least affected leaves be treated in this way, further disfigurement may be avoided and the trouble minimised. Badly infested leaves should be picked off and be burnt. Your plants will probably still bloom well. Gbavbl Paths {J. 0. S.). — It is a question of taste whether you prefer coal ashes and clinkers for your garden paths or the brighter gravel more generally in use. Many good judges prefer the dark colour of the ashes, forming, as they say it does, a more effective setting for the display of flowers or even of green grass. Which- ever way may be preferred, the autumn, winter, or early spring is the best time for carrying out the work, but if desired the work may be carried out now. In consequence of the hot, dry weather, however, it will be found more difficult to form a firm and smooth surface. If ashes are used, they should be passed through a IJ-inch screen in order to take out the rough clinkers. All that passes through the screen may be used. Before this is placed on the walks the surface should be roughly forked up and about 21 inches of the new material laid evenly on, treading it first well down with the feet, afterwards levelling neatly with an iron rake (not raking deeply, but simply to obliterate the footmarks), rolling repeatedly until the surface is hard and smooth. Should the ashes be dry at the time of rolling, they must be watered, or you will not get a hard, smooth surface. If gravel is preferred, the same directions will apply as to its application, screening, &c. Plants for Dry Border (F. Hicks). — The following will all succeed on a dry border : Achillea Ptarmioa The Pearl, Alstrcemerias (several kinds). Anemone japonioa and varieties, Asclepias tuberosa. Cassia marilandica, Crinum Powelli, Dictamnus Fraxinella and alba, Echinops sphferocephalus, Eryngium amethystinum, Galega officinalis and alba. Geranium pratense and others, Geum coccineum fl.-pl., Hedysarum coronarium, Helianthemum in variety, Hemerocallis (many sorts), German Iris in great variety, Liatris pycnostachya. Lupines of sorts, Megaseas (many kinds), Fotentillas (several showy garden forms), Sedum spectabile atropurpureum, Solomon's Seal, Statice of sorts, and Tradescantia virginica and varieties. Pansies Failing {.Juanito). — At this period of the summer it is not in the least an uncommon experience for growers of Pansies, Tufted or otherwise, to find them fail without any apparent reason. We have seen it in many gardens, and in soils of varying character. The failure may be very often attributed to the poor constitution of the varieties planted. When the plants are planted in the same quarter for two or three years in succession, they not seldom fail. Probably your plants have been in the same quarters year after year, with just a simple manuring for a change. Should you desire them to bloom in the same quarters year after year, it is absolutely essential that the soil be taken out and the beds filled with fresh. A liberal manuring should be the rule. Light soils should have cow manure freely incorporated, while heavy soils should have well-rotted horse manure. If your plants are attacked by millipedes, as is not unlikely, it is not possible to do anything with the plants at the time. The only thing is to pull them up and bum them without delay, and the soil from which the infested plants were removed should have boiling water poured into it. The ground should be treated in the autumn and winter months with a very liberal dressing of lime. LlFTiNQ Irises (West Sussex). — You will be more likely to succeed with the Irises another year if you lift them in the course of a week or two (say mid-Auguat), thoroughly dry them without exposing to sun-heat, and replant in September or October next. A like treatment will be best for the Anemones, and for which October will be the best lime for replanting. If you desire to plant the Irises in the same position again, you should afford them a little fresh soil about the roots at planting time. Carnations (KatTierine Beois).— The Carnation maggots are the larvee of a fly. and are deposited In the leaves of the plants each year. The maggot does not exist in the soil as Is the case with wlreworm, and there is every possl* bllity of Its being Introduced with fresh layers. All you can do Is to make your plants objectionable to the fly by spraying with soot water every few days. The bitterness of the soot may prevent the fly resting on your Carnations, and in this way your plants may escape. WiBKWORMS IN Carnations (J. B ).— Tour Carnations are evidently attacked by wlreworm, which must have been present In the soil used. In the open ground they may be trapped by burying Carrots in proximity to the plants, taking them up in about a week and destroying the insects attached to them. Mr. Douglas of Great Bookham, one of our oldest Carnation growers, says the best way to destroy wlreworm in loam intended for potting is to make up a stack of turf with alternate layers of turf loam and fresh stable mannre, In the proportion of four of loam to one of manure ; It heats snMciently to kill everything that has life. Ampelopsis not ClinginoCS. F. C.).— It is difficult to understand why your plants of Ampelopsis yeitchil have not attached themselves to the wall, but as none of the new shoots are of any length it is probable when they grow that the difficulty will be overcome. The reason of their growing weakly we cannot of course say, but plants against a wall often suffer from drought, and it may be that this is the case with yours ; if so, a thorough watering occasionally will put matters right, and the plants will very likely make considerable growth during the month of August and the first half of September. The plants also need good soil in which to root. Pond Weeds (Duckweed). — The "floating weed" of which you send a leaf is Potamogeton natans, and with a little perseverance cin be cleared or greatly reduced. In the south of England the plant is less abundant, but in pools, ponds, ditches, &c., in Cheshire, Lancashire, and Yorkshire the weed seems to abound. Raking is the best means of reducing it, and with a punt two men should soon effect a clearance. It would, of course, be necessary to root It out of the mud bottom if you desire to exter- minate it completely, but you may reduce It by raking the surface repeatedly and preventing its flowering and seeding. Frequent skimming of the surface may also rid It of much of the Duckweed, but If you have no fish or rare Water Lilies in the pond, you might try the more 72 THE GARDEN. [August 11, 1906. drastic measure of copper sulphate. This has been em- ployed at the rate of lib. to 1,000,000 gallons of water, but Id your case, with nothiog to fear, you might use it much stronger. Hollyhock Kungus (Pat).— A bad example of the Hollyhock fungus (Puccioia malvacearum), for which there is nokaowQcure. You are most fortunate in having so loTie escaped it. Pull up the plants and burn them. Hollyhocks Diseased {R. S. 3A.).— Your Hollyhocks are, unfurtunately, attacked by the fungus which attacks this and other malvaceous plants. This disease is situated wiihin the ti^^sues of the plant, and remedies are very difficult ( f application. The presence in the border of weeds of the Mallow family helps to encourage this fungus. Your best course will be to destroy the Infected plants at once, burning thera and any allied worms found near. Then procure stock from a fresh source and plant in a differentpart of the garden. The most useful boi kfor your purpose would probably be "Gardening for Beginners" (George Newnes, Southampton Street, London), 125. 6d. A useful series of handbooks, 2i. 61. each, is Issued by Lane, Vigo Street, W. You could get a list and see if any would suit you. Lilies in Pots (M. Oldham).— Yon do not say whether your Lilies were grown under glass and forced into flower earlier than their usual season of blossoming. If this is so, their proving unsatisfactory the second year would be explained. If, however, the bulbs were simply grown in a greenhouse and not forced at all, they ought still to be good. By the growth being stunted and the flowers deformed, it would seem that the pots in which they were grown were too small, and the roots suffered for the want of food. You did quite right to leave the bulbs in pots during the winter, providing they were kept free from frost. In spring you should shake the bulbs out of the old soil and repot, using two-thirds loam, one-third leaf- soil, and plenty of sand. When the flower-buds show give diluted liquid manure or guano occasionally. When potting leave room for a top-dressing of soil so as to eDCOurage stem-roots. THE GREENHOUSE. Fern Unsatisfactory {Miles Johnston). — The texture of the Maidenhair Fern enclosed is so thin that very little would cause it to turn brown . It is more than probable that the half-an- hour's exposure to direct sunshine about the middle of the day has led to the actual dis- coloration, but the primary cause is the poor state of health the plant is in, as is shown by the thinness of the enclosed frond. Everything points to the roots being in a bad state, and this may be caused, as suggested by your gardener, by an excess of moisture. Your better way will be to repot the plant, taking away as much of the old soil as possible. The fresh pot must be well drained, quite clean, and just large enough to take the healthy remaining roots comfortably. A suitable compost may be formed of equal parts of loam and peat, with about half a part of sand. Even this operation will not do much towards restoring your Maidenhair this year, as the season is so far advanced, but if the roots are in a good condition the growth next spring will be satisfactory. Feen Spores (Miles Johnston).— The spores of Maiden- hair Ferns ripen during the latter part of the spring and throughout the summer. Their ripening is shown by the spore-cases on the under sides of the fronds turning brown, after which they will soon turn black and discharge their spores. When spores are needed for sowing, the fronds must be carefully watched, and as soon as two or three spore-oases have burst, the fronds should be cut and laid In a sheet of white paper in a dry place. In a few days the spores will be shed and deposited on the paper in the form of an exceedingly floe powder of a brownish hue. ROSE GARDEN. Ckimson and Yellow Bedding Roses {Red iiose).— Raisers are still working for a good crimson and also for yellows that will compare with the splendid sort you name, Caroline Testout. At present there is no real counterpart of this Rose in either colour. The Hybrid Perpatuals, grand though they are in July, make a sorry show in autumn, so that we are compelled to go to the Hybrid Teas, and from these we should select as a crimson the variety George Liing Paul. It is not so rich in colour as you might desire, being somewhat of the tint of the Hybrid Perpetual Rise Dr. Andry, but, possessing as it does the same characteristics as Caroline Testout, we can recommend it with every confidence. For a yellow we should advise Mme. Ravary. At present it is the best grower among the bedding yellow Roses that hold their blooms upright. We could wish the open flowers did not pale so much, and if the colours were more yellow than orange it would be better, but perhaps these failings will be rectified some day. La Prog I'S is a grand colour, with a less vigorous constitution than Mme. Ravary, so we oinnot recommend it for the somewhat unfavourable position you have. Pruning Rosa alba (IT. A. IT.).— These old-fashioned Roses need little or no pruning beyond cuttingaway now and then some of the oldest worn-out growths. If the bushes are very dense in growth, we should advise you to cut away now two or three of the oldest shoots, so that light and air may freely penetrate. Beyond this do not prune. Fork up the ground around the plants, and give some liquid manure about once a fortnight. If this can be done now, the blooming next season will he much liner. Red Rust on Rose (7?. S. H.).— The Hybrid Perpetual Roses, especially If on the Manetti stock, are much addicted to the fungus known as red rust. The best remedy for this is to spray with Bordeaux mixture, but it should be applied more as a preventive than as a cure. We should recommend you to put the plant outdoors for the summer months, standing it in a sunny spot with the pot plunged in ashes. Ulrich Brunner blooms well upon the two-year old wood, so that if there are plenty of good healthy roots to your plant you should have some nice blooms next year. The plant should be repotted next month. Yellow Rambler Failing to Bloom (Jf. Ramsden). This is notoriously a shy bloomer for the first three years after planting ; then it may be induced to bloom abundantly. The Rose must not be pruned. Spread out the growths as widely as possible, each growth being at least 3 inches apart, and if they are too numerous cut some of them quite away right to their base at once. This will well season the wood, and next June, if you do not prune the growths in any way, you should obtain a splendid blooming from this seven-year old plant. The moving which the plant received three years ago would be con- ducive to a free blooming, and we cannot understand why it has not yet responded. FRUIT GARDEN. Protecting Fruit from Birds (.4. A. H.). — Wire netting of IJ-inch mesh will protect your fruit from all birds likely to destroy it ; a larger mesh would not be safe. We should certainly have the netting fixed in such a way that a good portion of it at least could be removed in winter, so that insect - eating birds could have free admission during that season, or you will find (as was the experience of a friend of ours this summer) that by excluding such birds during winter a terrible increase of such insects will take place the following summer. Herring nets will answer the same purpose just as well as the galvanised netting. These can be cleared away as soon as the fruit has been gathered, and if carefully dried and stored away during winter will last for many years ; the cost of them is trifling compared to the other. Mealy Bug on Vines, &o. {J. Hygate). — As the result of long experience we should hesitate to recommend the adoption of the "oyaniding" pro- cess, as you call it, for the eradication of the above pest in summer. The great difiSculty all cultivators experience in dealing with this pest in summer is the fact that if you apply such remedies as you speak of in strong enough solution to kill the bug, it will assuredly at the same time seriously cripple and injure the foliage and bark of the tree or plant, so that the remedy is as much to be dreaded as the disease. We should advise you to try the following plan instead : Well syringe with rain or clear water the affected trees or plants in the early morning, using suflBoient force with the syringe or garden engine to dislodge the woolly part, which protects the real insect, and in the evening of the same day fumigate with XL All fumigator and insecticide (which you will find advertised in our columns) two or three times on alternate days, syringing the trees or plants in the morning as before. Printed instructions are given with the insecticide how to apply it and the strength to use. After this process you will find very few, if any, of the insects left alive, and your trees or plants none the worse. Spread mats under the trees to collect the insects as they fall, and be careful to burn every one. Pruning Currants (B. C.).— The Red and White Currant bushes may be shortened now that growth is complete. Cut back to within 6 inches of the old wood ; Indeed, in a few cases, if the trees are very thick, you may cut out completely some of the crowded wood— cutting close to the main stem — this admits light and air, and ripens new wood for winter pruning. Trees Injured (T. R. S.).— We do not think the Quassia did the injury to your trees. We think, like you, that the fault is in the petrol. You will do well to shade the tree during hot sunshine, thus getting new foliage, and though you may lose some wood, the trees if shaded and syringed several times a day will soon pull rcund, as the older wood will have escaped injury. Seedling Loganberry (John Wood).— We regret that the berries sent had so decayed that we are unable to give our opinion as to their true value, but from your descrip- tion it should be a most valuable Introduction, being so much earlier than the ordinary Loganberry. We would advise you to increase the stock and next year to exhibit it as advised as early as possible. We like the colour, and it is handsome also, with distinct foliage. Plum Fungus (S. J. fl.).— The shoots of the Plum trees sent are badly attacked by the Plum fungus, which can readily be removed, if seen at Its first appearance, by sulphur dressing, or you may use sulphur solution that will kill green or black-fly, adding a little quicklime. There is also an excellent remedy (Bentley's of Barrow-ou- Humber Concentrated Alkali), used in the winter, or their Mildew Specific used now will be most beneficial. IfRUiT Trees on Wall (E. C.).— Y'ou would do well to shorten the side shoots to within three or four buds from the base, except leaders for extension ; these latter must be left full length till winter, then shortened as required. Foreright shoots are those that come out straight from the main branches, and should be cut as close back to the trees as possible. They disfigure the trees, and are useless at any time. Leaders should now be nailed or tied their full length and not unduly crowded ; thin out any not required. Grapes M adresfield Court Unsatisfactory {J. T. B.). The reason for the "scalding" of the Madreefield Court berries (a term used to describe this disease) is because they have been grown in too close and moist an atmo- sphere. Cut out all the affected berries and ventilate more freely, leaving a little front and back air on all night, and never quite closing the vinery (day or night), and in damp or cold weather (especially at night) apply a little heat to the hot-water pipes in order to secure a more buoyant circulation of air to prevent cold dampness forming on the berries. Mildew on Grapes (P. flicite).— You should very care- fully collect and burn all the leaves when they fall in the autumn. There is no readier way of encouraging the spread of mildew than by allowing diseased leaves and shoots to lie about. Upon the very first sign of the fungus next year dust the berries or leaves with flowers of sulphur. You might try the new remedy Mo-Eftic, which has been recommended in The Garden several times recently, should the fungus appear again next year. Mildew increases most rapidly in a moist, stagnant atmosphere, so that you should endeavour to avoid this. We think the use of a little fire-heat in the pipes whenever the mildew appears, and especially wet weather, would he advisable. Be careful about the ventilation when the outside atmo- sphere is damp and the weather dull. KITCHEN GARDEN. Lettuoes fob Winter {Isle of Man). — To be successful you must get a good plant by October or November. We think the Hardy Hammer- smith, Lee's Immense Hardy Green, and the Victoria the three best Lettuces of the Cabbage type to BOW for the purpose named, and Bath or Brown Cos, Hicks' Hardy White, and Sutton's Champion Brown three excellent Cos varieties. There is another system of winter and spring culture largely adopted at the present time, and that is to BOW very early sorts, such as Golden Qaeen, Earliest of All, Golden Ball, and Perfect Gem, in heat in January, pricking out when large enough under glass. We would advise sowing from the 20ch to the Slst of this month or later. In all cases sow thinly ; give the seeds ample room (crowding at the start will be fatal to success). Your wisest plan would be to aake two sowings ; if your land is light, sow a small quantity at the date named, and another lot two or three weeks later. Transplanting should be done before frost has injured the growth, and the plant carefully planted with a trowel, made firm by the hand, and watered thoroughly. After that water only when really necessary. Plant in rows 1 foot apart, keep free of decaying foliage, and in favourable weather give as much ventila- tion as possible. So much of your success will depend upon whether your plant in the autumn is healthy. Do not coddle in any way j grow as sturdily as possible. Let the seed-bed be in an open, exposed position. Water the seed-beds in dry weather once or twice a week, but do not encourage weak growth. If your garden is warm or dry, the sowing should be at the later date- September. GARDEN. -^=^^ No. 1813.— Vol. LXX. August 18, 1906. THE PYRETHRUM. NONE of our hardy flowers has a stronger claim on our regard than the Pyrethrum. In May and June it occupies the same position as that held by the Chrysanthemum in September and October, and it is one of the best plants for town gardens. For mixed borders, shrubberies, and situations where a mass of colour is important in May or June, Pyrethrums are matchless. As cut flowers for vases and table decorations they are of the greatest value, and last longer than almost any other flower. The soil should be deeply dug and liberally manured. The plants may be put in at any time, but the spring and the autumn are the best seasons. When first put in the ground the plants must be protected from slugs and woodlice, but when they have begun to grow freely these pests are less trouble- some. As the season advances the flower stems will appear, and the grower will have to determine whether support is necessary or not, but the stakes must not be too evident. I have grown a large collection, comprising all the named varieties, and never given support, but let them fall about as they please. This plan answers well when the weather is fine, but bad weather makes a difference. And then, I admit, the plants that are pro- perly supported fare the best. In some gardens Pyrethrums die out in three or four years. In others they last a long time. It is a good practice, however, to take them up every third year and deeply dig and manure the soil. Then divide and replant. If fresh soil can be given all the better, for when left in the same spot, even if periodically dug and manured, they deteriorate. The best time of the year for lifting and dividing is August or September, and I find it is a good plan to pot a few small pieces of all the best varieties, and keep these potted plants in a frame during winter, to plant out in spring. A severe winter may kill a few of the plants that were disturbed in the autumn, in which case the potted plants will be ready to take their place. There are one or two points of considerable importance in the cultivation of Pyrethrums. In the first place, when very young plants are put out in mixed borders they are very liable to be injured, if not quite destroyed, by digging or other operations during the winter, as they retain few leaves from November to February. In the next place, they like strong rich soil, such as wUl retain a fair proportion of moisture. They are fur- nished with innumerable small roots, there- fore the soil should be broken up fine to a good depth. The soil about them should be kept free from weeds, and liquid manure given frequently. If they are in a well- drained soil they will enjoy a rather large supply of water ; and, so far as growth and number of fiowers produced are concerned, a dripping time through the months of May and June is very favourable to them. Overcrowding must be avoided, as Pyre- thrums produce so many roots that they exhaust the soil for some distance. Large examples ought to be at least 30 inches apart each way, and when allowed space they will, if the soil is in good condition, produce from thirty to forty flowers of fair average quality. Pyrethrums produce seed freely ; if this is not required, it is advisable to cut off the flowers as fast as they fade, and so prevent undue exhaustion of the plant. The following are some of the best varieties in cultivation. Double : Alfred Kelway, Aphrodite, Beauty of Lseken, Captain Nares, Empress Queen, Gloire de Stael, Lady Kil- dare. Marchioness of Lome, Pericles, Queen Sophia, Solfatare, and white Aster. Single : Albert Victor, Cervantes, General Butler, Gloire de Nancy, Hamlet, James Kelway, Jubilee, Juliette, Mrs. Bateman, Mrs. Bruce Findley, Princess of Wales, and Wagstaft'. T. B. Field. Ashwellthorpe, Norwich. A REMARKABLE NETTLE. The mere thought of Nettles to a gardener is eafficient to fill him with horror, let alone the fact of plants of this description being thought worthy of consideration in the pages of The Gardbk. A moment's consideration, however, will show that if we take the Urtioacese, or Kettle family, in its widest sense we shall find that it contains a large number of very valuable plants for outdoor, green- house, and tropical treatment, for it has repre- sentatives either in the form of trees, shrubs, or herbs in almost every climate over the face of the globe. Besides this there are few natural orders that are so varied in the character of their members, both in general appearance and in their products. As examples of the first we may mention the Elm as one of the largest and the common Nettle as one of the smallest in point of habit. We must bear in mind that the order is composed of seven tribes, the Elm belonging to the first (Ulmese), and the Nettle belonging to the last ((Jrticeae), in which section, however, we have plants of most extreme habits, such as the gigantic Nettle Tree of New South Wales (Urtica gigas or Laportea gigas), which grows to a height of 120 feet, or even to 140 feet, with a thick trunk and wide, spreading head, and at the other extreme the common Stinging Nettle of our own hedges (Urtica dioica). With regard to the usefulness of the plants forming the order may be mentioned the Hop, Hemp, Mulberry, Indian Fig, True Fig, India- rubber Fig (Fious spp. ), Bread Fruit, and many others. These thoughts have been brought to mind by the recent appearance in the London papers of an advertisement setting forth the advantages of Ramie fibre for underwear, under the phonetic spelling of three words which has apparently been adopted as a trade mark. The interest attached to this latest booming of Ramie fibre lies in the fact that there is absolutely nothing new in it, though the advantages possessed by the fibre over others cannot be denied. Ramie fibre is the product of a nettle, and is known also as Rhea and China Grass. It is the Urtica nivea of Linnaeus and the Bceameria nivea of more modern botanists. This Nettle is of shrubby habit, indigenous to India and the Indian Archipelago, and probably also to China. The name Ramie is that under which the plant is known in the Malay Islands, Rhea being the Assam name, and China Grass the English name. The ups and downs in the attempts to introduce this fibre to European trade are so remarkable and interesting as to induce us to give them here. It seems to have made its first appearance in England about the year 1849 in the form of some finely-woven hand- kerchiefs. From this time the fibre began to attract much attention, and a patent was obtained in connexion with its preparation. At the Great Exhibition in 1851 three prize medals were awarded to samples of the fibre, which proved that when properly cleaned and prepared fabrics could be spun from it equal to the finest cambric. The interest in it, however, waned, and little or nothing was heard of it till in 1865 a fresh impetus was given to it by the American Vice- Consul at Bradford suggesting to his Government at Washington the advisability of introducing and furthering the cultivation of the plant in America for the purpose of applying the fibre as a textile in that country, as well as exporting it to Great Britain, notwithstanding that in previous years living plants had been sent from Kew to all the British Colonies possessing a climate suit- able for its growth, a fact unknown at the time to the American Consul. The substance of this American official communication was transmitted to the British Government, with the result that plants were again sent from Kew to the principal Colonial botanic gardens. Nothing much came of this fresh spurt, until in 1869 the Indian 74 THE GARDEN. [August 18, 1906 Givernment oflfered two prizes of £5,000 and £2,000 respectively, for a machine suitable for cleaning the fibre and preparing it in saoh a con- dition that it might be placed in the markets of Europe. There was only one competitor, and his machine did not fulfil the necessary conditions, and the subject again fell into abeyance. Since then engineers and fibre merchants in abnndance have from time to time interested themselves in the matter, and for the purpose of supplying material in the green state for experimental trials of the various machines the plant itself has been introduced and grown in Algeria, the South of France, the Channel Islands, and even in Great Britain. At the Paris Exhibition of 1887 a number of machines were shown and practically tested as to their capabilities of solving one of the most interesting difficulties in the fibre trade, namely, the cleaning and preparation of the fibre in a condition suitable for spinning or weaving. In 1891 another trial of machines was held in Paris, the results of which made no practical advance on the previous trials. Fortunes have been spent in the numerous experiments to make Ramie fibre an established article of commerce, and fortunes have been promised by the various companies that have been formed for its promotion. The extended cultivation of the plant presents no difficulty. With a suitable soil and the necessary conditions of heat and moisture the plant can be satisfac- torily cultivated in most of our tropical posses- sions. That these experiments have been, and are slill, justified will be readily conceded by all those who are acquainted with the excellent quality and silky character of the fibre and of the fabrics that have been made from it, not only in the native looms of India, but also in those of France and England, qualities that are by no means overstated in the latest attempt to estab- lish its use, and which are well illustrated in No. 1 Museum of the Royal Gardens, Kew. John R. Jackson. Claremont, Lympstone, Devon. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. AUGUST. PRESERVING FRUITS FOR WINTER USE. A Fint PfUe of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second PrUe of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best essays on this subject. By preserving fruits is meant their preserva- tion, either whole or cut, as the case may be, in bottles or jars. Where it is thought that a simple sketch (which must be upon a separate piece of paper) would help to make the meaning clearer, it should be given. Sketches, however, are not essential. The remarks (limited to 1,500 words) must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked " Competition," addressed to "The Editor of The Gabdbn, 20, Tavistock Street, Co vent Gaurden, London, W.C." The answers must reacb^this office not later than August 31. Both amateur and professional gar- deners may compete ; it is hoped, however, that those who contribute regularly to the pages of Tbb Gasden will not do so. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS , and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of UQspccessfpl competitors, NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. August 18. — Sheffield, Seascale, and Lake District Flower Shows. August 21. — Brighton Flower Show (two days). August 22. — Shrewsbury Floral Fete (two days) ; Harpenden Flower Show. Visitors to Kew. — The number of visitors to the gardens on August Bank Holiday, which were 113,131, is a record, the previous highest we believe being 106, Si IS on Whit Monday, May 26, 1890. The Royal Horticultupal Hall. Excellent as this hall is for an exhibition there is one glaring defect, and that is the want of sufficient shading against bright sunshine. I speak as an exhibitor, and I am sure all who have suffered as I have, from three or four hours bright sunshine on one's exhibit, will agree that it is anything but helpful to out flowers. Surely there is a remedy for this. An awning could be arranged in some way such as used to be adopted by Mr. Head at the Crystal Palace. — Exhibitor. Gunnerstaupy House Gardens.— A delightful day was spent in these beautiful girdens on Friday, August 3, when the delegates to the hybrid conference were entertained at lunch by Mr. Leopold de Rothschild. In the absence of thb host the guests were received by Mr. Lionel de Rothschild, who also conducted them over the grounds, which were in the full flush of their summer beauty. Mr. James Hudson and Mr. George Reynolds are to be congratulated upon the summer gardening at these' famous English homes. After luncheon the party went to the Royal Gardens, Kew, where tea was served. National Potato Society.— On Satur- day, the 11th inst., the annual inspection of the trials now being conducted at the Cimbridge University farm at Impington, near Histon, was made by the members of the National Potato Society. Among those who attended were Mr. J. Poad, York ; Mr. W. Deal, Kelvedon ; Mr. James Gardiner, Perth ; Mr. W. J. Atkinson, Weston St. Mary, Spalding; Mr. George Massey, Spalding ; Mr. Massey, jun. ; Mr. J. D. Blans- hard, Bardney, Lincoln ; Mr. Preesley (repre- senting Mr. Robert Sydenham), Birmingham ; Mr. F. G. Adkins, London ; Mr. W. H. Adsett, hon. secretary, and others. The visitors were conducted over the farm by Professor T. H. Middleton and Mr. H. Henshaw, under whose direction the trials are being carried out. The department tests of a number of varieties in commerce were first seen. Despite the drought the crops were looking exceptionally well. Major and minor trials are being made on behalf of the society. In the first-named section are included novelties which are ready to be placed on the market. The minor tests are for seedlings not yet ready to put into commerce, and will be found very useful for purposes of comparison. The crops will be lifted next month, and the varieties adjudicated upon by a special committee of the society. The visit proved very instructive and enjoyable, thanks to the excellent arrange- ments made by Professor Middleton and Mr. Henshaw. Obituary— F. W. Meyer.— We much regret to learn uf the sudden death of our correspondent, Mr. F. W. Meyer of Exeter, of heart failure. Mr. Meyer bad a serious illness a short time ago, being taken ill when on a business journey in the neighbourhood of Taunton, but had sufficiently recovered to resume work. He was taken ill again on Saturday on his return home to Exeter, and died on Monday morning. He had been with the firm of Messrs. Robert Veitch and Sqn for i^bout thirty years, and had designed and carried out many important land- scape gardening works. One of his earliest efforts was a considerable undertaking in the way of rockery, cavern, and cascade efiects at Bystock, near Exmouth. This was followed by laying out ornamental grounds and lake at Poole for Lord Wimbome. The public parks of Devonport, Wellington (Somerset), and this year of Sher- borne, are evidences of his success, while the public grounds of Exeter were a few years ago greatly improved by his designs. Besides these were many estates of private owners which bear marks of his handiwork, such as those at Lilford Hall, near Oundle (Lord Lilford's place), the estate of Mr. Paris Singer at Paignton, that of the late Mr. Fisher at Newton Abbot (now, alas ! turned into building sites), and Mr. Meyer's last work, in which he was just beginning to carry out his design for the laying out of an alpine garden and rockery for the Royal Horticultural Society at their new place at Wisley, Messrs. Robert Veitch and Son having been entrusted with its formation. Mr. Meyer was a constant contributor to the home horticultural journals, especially The Garden. He had many friends in the West of England. Wellington Horticultural Society. — Alter a lapse of fifieen years we are pleased to know this society has been revived. Mr. Wells, 22, High Path, Wellington, is the hon. secretary. Gardeners at cricket.— The second match between "Past and Present" Kewites, which it is hoped will now beome an annual event, took place at Kew on Wednesday, the 8 th inst. Victory this year rested with the " Past," thus turning the tables on the " Present," who won last year. Scores : " Past," 120 (Tribble, 41); "Present," 77 (Howell, 38). In the bowling, for the "Past" Simmons took four wickets for 27 runs, and Thomas three wickets for 1 run; for the "Present" Bowell took eight wickets for 48 runs. Pelargronium Firedrag:on.—I should like to draw attention to the great value of this plant for winter blooming in quite a cool green- bouse. It flowers most freely throughout the winter, its large, handsome heads of flowers keeping in perfection for over a month. Neither the leaves nor the flowers suffer at all from damp, which cannot be said of any other of the zonals under the same treatment. — R. H. B. , Sispara, West Hill, Putney. Prizes for flowers in cottage gardens. — In accordance with her custom for many years, the Countess of Selkirk, Balmae, Kirkcudbright, has again given prizes for the encouragement of the cultivation of flowers in the cottage gardens of St. Mary's Isle, the property of the late Earl of Selkirk, and now belonging to Ciptain Hope, R.N. The gardens were judged, at the request of Lady Selkirk, by Mr. S. Arnott and Mr. R. Service, and their report, which contains remarks concerning the improvement in the gardens and suggestions as to further progress, has been issued. The prizes are in three classes, the first being for flowers in the gardens in the western district. These have been awarded as follows : First, Mrs. Tait, Mute Hill ; second, Mr. Kelly, The Stell ; third, Mr. Grahame, Auchenflower ; fourth, Mr. M'Conl, The Siell. The second class is for creepers and house-fronts, and winners of prizes in the pre- vious class cannot be awarded a prize in the second. The awards were : First, Mr. Taylor, Sandside ; second. Miss Dickson, The Djon ; third, Mr. Dorrance, Mute Hill ; fourth, Mr. Milligan, Low Kirkland. The third class in- cludes the gardens on the Balmae portion of the estates, where they are more exposed to storms from the Solway and have a poorer subsoil. The prizes here were apportioned as follows : First, Mrs. Caldow, Drunmore ; second, Mr. M'Kie, Little Balmae ; third, Mr. 3eattie, 7he Stables. August 18 1906.] THE GARDEN. 75 Rare and choice Daffodils and Narcissi. — The liat issued by Mr. F. Herbert Chapman, R;e, contains names and full descrip- tions of many of the rare and choice Daffodils and Narcissi, and several of them are beautifully illustrated. The new Freesia Chapmanii and Iris reticulata are also included in Mr. Chapman's list. Larkspups in Ireland.— At the front of a small ttiatched and white-washed cottage by the roadside near Millisle, on the County Down coast, I noticed some of these pretty annual flowers. ' They were in many colours, such as pink, blue, lavender, white, &c., and it was quite pleasant to see them, and the thought struck me that there is not enough made of these flowers in exhibitions of annuals and in our gardens. I opened the upper half of the cottage door, which was on latch, and I looked into the cabin. A young dark-eyed, dark-haired girl was putting her baby to sleep in a cradle. I asked her the name of the flowers, and she said, with a pretty soft accent, "Lirkspura." " They are the prettiest flowers I have seen about here," I replied, "and I have been in the largest gardens in the neighbourhood." Her anxious, rather careworn face flushed with pride, and I passed on. It is so pleasant to see a taste for the eood and beautiful in out-of-the- way places. — Walter Smyth, Eolyioood, County Down, A Scarlet Tea Rose (Gruss an Sang'erliausen). — Dr. Muller, who will be known to readers of The Gabden as the raiser of Conrad Ferdinand Meyer, and, more recently, of Gottfried Keller, is the raiser of this promising Hybrid Tea Rose. Judging from a small plant sent me by Herr Peter Lambert last autumn, I should imagine that this will prove an excellent garden Rose. So many of the newer Hybrid Teas have fine form, good colour, and great substance, but lack the one thing necessary to make a good Rose — namely, fragrance — that I am pleased to say Grii9S an Singerhausen is one of the most deliciously scented Roses that has come under my notics. Save that it has the reputation of being rather a moderate grower, this variety has many points in its favour to recommend it. First of all, it is a superb colour, in fact, just the colour we have been looking for, and had hoped to find in that most disappointing Rose, Ecoile de France, a good reddish scarlet. The plant is of excellent growth, the long pointed buds held on stiff upright stalks and opening into blooms of exquisite shape. It is very free flowering, so much so that it leads me to suspect that, like the well-known La France, it is almost a Hybrid China. Another feature of this Rose is its foliage. The leaves are very broad and of a dark purplish green, which is a remarkably beautiful contrast to the vivid hue of the flowers. This variety will probably prove vigorous enough when it has recovered from the effects of the over • propagation from which it is plainly Buffering. As soon, therefore, as plants from the open ground are procurable, I would strongly urge those who are on the look out for a brilliant bedding Rose to give this variety a trial. Its flowers do not "blue" with age, and this alone is calculated to ensure its popularity, provided that it improves in vigour. — Arthur R. Goodwin, Worcestershire. Dlanthus callizonus.— It is said in an article on rock Pinks published in The Garden (page 51) that Dianthus neglectus and D. callizonus dislike lime in any form. I have for some years grown D. neglectus very well in a soil chiefly made up of mortar rubble. My experience of D. callizonus is much shorter, but I have it at present thriving and flowering in the same soil ; and M. Correvon says that it is a lime-loving plant, in fact, all the rock Pinks I have grown like mortar rubble. I have not grown D. glaoialis — it is said never to thrive in Eagland — but I believe it is the only Pink which objects to lime. It is much to be desired that someone should make out a trustworthy list of the alpine plants which object to lime, and of those which will not thrive without it. Most of the existing lists I have seen are both imperfect and erroneous. Such a list should be based on the experience of a skilful cultivator, and never on hearsay. It is not safe to assume that because a plant is not found in limestone districts it will not endure lime in captivity. Nor is it safe to assume that a difficult plant dislikes lime because it has been known to do badly in a limy soil in a rock garden. It may have had other good reasons for doing badly. Thorough experiments would have to be made by a skilled cultivator before it could be safely assured in the case of difficult plants either that they disliked lime or that they could not do without it. Also there are plants which might be able to endure lime in the form of mortar rubble, but not in stronger and cruder doses. A list of the plants that will not endure lime, even in the form of mortar rubble, would be particularly valu- able. Mortar rubble is, I think, the most useful aid to the growing of diflScult alpines that exist. A few, certainly, cannot endure it, but they are very few ; and to the rest, if given protection against drought, moisture, wire- worms, and slugs, and also just the nourishment they require, many of the most difficult will thrive in pure mortar rubble. Therefore, if we had a list of the plants that cannot endure it we could give it to all the rest with- out fear. — A. C. B., Famcombe. Rose Mrs. S h a r m a n Crawford. — I am sending you a photograph of Rose Mrs. Sharman Craw- ford. The measure- ments of the bloom, which were most carefully taken, were 5| inches by 4| inches, and 2 j inches deep. This flower was cut off a newly-planted tree (dwarf) on June 29 Richards, Westridge, near Hyde I W. Flowers in Hampton Court Gardens. — The new Fuchsia shown recently at Vincent Square by Messrs. Cinnell and Sons under the name of Andenken an Heinrich Henkel is the primary feature of a large bed here, but by Mr. Gardiner wisely reduced in title to Heinrich Henkel. Apparently it is the result of a cross between some ordinary Fuchsia and of F. fulgens, or perhaps of F. corymiflora, as the long red tubular flowers hang in corymbs or clusters with great freedom on the plants. Foliage is large, dark, and rounded. The plants stand on a base by the variegated Chlorophyton, and are very effective. Other striking combinations are beds of double scarlet Begonia Lafayette on a carpet of Leucophyton Brownii, with some scarlet Celosias and plants of the silvery variegated Phlox Countess d'Jarnac. Also very striking indeed is a big breadth of semi-double pink tuberous Begonia Major Hope on a carpet of Sweet Alyssum compactum, among which are dotted plants of a compact blue Lobelia, Lilium Harrissi, and Fuchsia gracilis as dress plants, breaking the surface. A curious, striking, and to many persons veryjpleasing, combination is ROSE MRS. SHARMAN CRAWFORD. (6} inches by 45 inches,'mmches' deep.) -H. W. formed by numerous pyramidal plants of the pale purple-flowered Lantana salvisefolia, dwarf bushes of the yellow Lantana Drop d'Or being interspersed below with a carpet of the purple- flowered Verbena venosa, the whole edged with the pretty white-flowered Verbena ericoides. Lovers of brilliant colour may flnd a mass close to the river front of that intense scarlet zonal Pelargonium Paul Crampel. The bed is not a formal mass of colour, intense as it is, because many plants are old and 20 inches in height, standing in a base of younger ones. A few sturdy plants of Euonymus japonicus varie- galus lends pleasant relief. Still, for coloor a 76 THE GARDEN. [August 18, 1906. more brilliant mass could hardly be furnished. It was perhaps with relief the eye turned to the long, hardy plant borders in which perennial Phloxes just now form so attractive a feature. In many beds tall plants grown as columnar pyramids are used with striking effect for foliage purposes. Silvery Abutilons, dark and reticulated Ireeines, silvery Ivies, golden Fuchsias, and of more bushy form rich-coloured Acalyphas are all excellent. Of similar growth of flowering plants Plumbagos, Streptosolens, Heliotropes, Cupheas, Lantanas, Cassias, Calceo- larias Bnrbidgei and amplexicaulis, various Ivy- leaf Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and the beautiful white- flowered Swansonias all play their part with striking effect. Of annuals none are more beautiful than mixtures of Salpiglossis. These, indeed, merit wide cultivation. — A. D. THE AURICULA (Continued ) TRANSPLANTING THE SEED- LINGS.— As soon as the plants get into rough leaf they are ready to be transplanted, about 1 inch apart, into pans or round the side of pots, and as soon as they begin to touch each other they must be transplanted again, allowing more space the second time. In August a third remove is necessary ; 3-inch pots are a suitable size, and in these the young plants will remain till the blooming time, when many of them will flower, and the best can be selected. It is not advisable to discard any, except the quite bad plants, as a further development sometimes discloses a gem which was not discernible at the first time of flowering. All those plants which do not blossom the first time should, in May, be repotted into 3-inch pots. During the summer months they will require attention to watering, an occasional stirring of the soil to prevent the growth of moss, and a look-out for the greenfly. While the plants are small, and after each transplanting, they should be kept rather close, but as they increase in size and strength, air may be admitted more freely, and they may enjoy the benefit of light, gentle showers. These will refresh the plants amazingly and encourage a more vigorous growth. Description of the Various Classes. — Turning to the mature Auricula, it may be well to describe the properties of the flower suitable for show. The beauty of the Auricula is original, curious, and striking. It is not due alone to colouring matter in the tissues of the petals, but also to the presence of a smooth and snow-white meal, laid in different densities in certain parts of the flower. 1. The centre of the pip is a waxen tube vary- ing from gold to greenish yellow, and set round with yellow anthers near its mouth. The number of these in the family to which the Auricula belongs is five, but this flower is not particular, and when a pip contains, as it usually does, more than five lobes, there is usually an attendant anther for each. The tube is a small member, but it has great power. It is the central figure, and if this be faulty it spoils the whole face of the flower. The tube should be of a rich yellow, of good substance, circular, and well up, rising fully to the level of the flatly expanded pip. 2. The stem should carry its head well above the foliage, and the footstalks of the pips be long enough to allow room for each to stand out of another's way and stiff upon the truss. 3. The relative positions of the pistil and anthers within the tube are of vital importance. In some cases the pistil is in or beyond the mouth of the tube, and the anthers at the bottom. To be correct the anthers should be bold and set round the mouth of the tube, and the pistil at the bottom. This last is the only allowable form in the Auricula, and any other disqualifies the whole flower. 4 The next property is a circle of white meal called "paste"; this must be smooth, dense, and circular, free from all cracks and blemishes. ."). Beyond the circle of paste follows a zone of colour known as the ground or body colour, cut sharp and circular upon its inner edge by the paste, but feathering off towards the edge of the pip. The ground colour should be dense and bright, free from any clots of meal, and of one uniform shade. 6. Beyond the circle of the ground, and filling up the outline of the flower, comes the much- prized edge. It is either a bright green, free of all meal, or the green is frosted over with a light coating of meal or thoroughly whitened by it as the paste itself. The edge determines the class of the flower, and it is a green, grey, or white edge, according to the absence or quantity of the meal upon it. 7. The selfs are a class in which the body colour is carried through without any change from the paste to the edge of the petal. The space which the tube and its surrounding circles occupy upon the flower should be well balanced. The pip itself must be stout, circular, and flat, but the selfs have naturally a thinner texture, and although the last of the four classes, it is a very beautiful one. The Foliage of the plants differ considerably, and most florists can name their Auriculas when not in flower from the leaves alone. In some varieties it is a deep rich green ; in others a beautiful silvery streak runs along the whole edge of the leaves ; and again in others the meal is laid on so densely as to form a beautiful white coating so delicate in texture that if an insect but alight upon it the footprints of the intruder are plainly visible. Although it has so many points of delicate beauty, the plant itself is of a very hardy constitution. Frost will not harm the Auricula, although it will sometimes cripple the bloom from an exhibition point of view. It is subject to few diseases. Charles Hen wood. (To be continued. J increased by grafting cuttings of the half-ripened shoots are not diflScult to strike if put in under glass, and out of doors they can be readily propagated by layers. T. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. A LT A EARLY CABBAGE SUTTON'S APEIL. LTHOUGH the spring of 1906 was not favourable to spring Cabbage, the above variety was so good that it is well worth a special note. Given the same culture as some half-dozen other early sorts, it was the first to mature, and not half-a-dozen plants in a thousand have failed. From seed sown the latter end of July cutting began the middle oi April. Owing to the peculiar weather experienced during the winter, not severe frosts altogether, but mild weather, then frost and cold biting winds, which arrested early growth, cutting was not general till April was well advanced. For many years EUam'e Early Dwarf was the standard early Cabbage, but now those who only have room for a few of the best will find Sutton's April a splendid and reliable variety, not only entirely free from bolting, but of excellent table quality. When looking over our next quarter for succession we found every plant perfect ; indeed, it is a pleasure to grow vegetables that give such an excellent return. G. W^tbes. TREES AND SHRUBS, THE JAPANESE PLUM. (PRUNnS JAPONIC'A.) ARGELY grown for forcing are the two double-flowered forms of this pretty little Plum, as not only can they be had in bloom quite early in the year, but they are also extremely beautiful and lasting when treated in this way. The forms referred to have very double flowers, being in fact perfect little rosettes. In alba plena the flowers are white, and in roseo plena pink. Though, as above stated, both of the varieties are grown in considerable numbers for forcing, their beauty as early-flowering shrubs in the open ground is too generally overlooked. Early in May a bed of the variety roseo plena formed a charming feature at Kew, and the white form was also blooming freely in several places. One great drawback against their use in this way is that nurserymen will persist in grafting them on the Sloe, the suckers from which are always a great nuisance, and unless constantly attended to will soon overpower the scion. Those at Kew are on their own roots, and the plants form neat bushy specimens 3 feet to 4 feet high. The long slender shoots are crowded with pretty pink blossoms for the greater part of their length. They are somewhat liable to be injured by late spring frosts, but in most gardens a fairly sheltered spot may be found for them. Out of doors the pink colouring of the variety roseo plena is more pronounced than it is when the flowers are developed under glass. Beside the name of Prunus japonica the Plum in question is known sometimes as Prunus sinensis, Cerasus japonica, and C. sinensis. Though so universally A VALUABLE FORCING CARROT. (Carter's Golden Ball ) This useful small Carrot is well worth notice on account of its quick growth, good eating qualities, and its value for forcing. For frame culture we have found it superior to the older Short Horn, and it is earlier than the Early Nantes, though in many respects it resembles the last named. Golden Ball is nearly round, more like a small Turnip. It is of a bright golden colour, and the flesh is very soft and melting, [there being no hard core. As an early border Carrot Golden Ball should become a great favourite, and in cold soils or on poor land these small Carrots are most useful. Last season I saw this root grown largely on land that in previous years had grown long roots, but which had failed woefully. By making four or five sowings in the year, well liming or dressing the land with wood ashes, good tender roots may be had of the above variety, smaller certainly than the long Carrots, but of delicious quality. There will be no break in the supply if a good sowing is made in July or August for the winter supplies. G. Wythes. A SUBSTITUTE FOR TURNIPS IN SUMMER. In hot, dry summers, when Turnips fail, many who require this vegetable would do well to grow the Kohl Rabi. Though little thought of in this country, it is a most acceptable vegetable, and when well cooked it is valuable. On the Continent the Kohl Rabi is in most gardens, and is used largely in stews and made dishes. When it is chopped fine and served hot it is equal to the ordinary Turnip, and, unlike the latter, it does not bolt or run to seed, and in severe weather is not injured by frost. On heavy soils it will grow where the Turnip fails, and three sowings in a year will provide a full supply. There are two sorts, the purple and the green. I prefer the last-named for the garden, though the purple sort is a great favourite on the Continent, and is largely used for feeding cows. Unlike the Turnip, the Kohl Rabi does not affect the flavour of the milk. I have referred to its value when cooked, and I may add there are many ways of making it palatable. It should be cooked whole, then peeled and partly fried in rich gravy, or it may be sliced. When half boiled and fried with small herbs, after being August 18, 1906, i THE GARDEN. 77 egged over, it is very good. I have also seen it used largely out up when cold as a salad with other things. 6. Wythbs. GREENHOUSE. RUSSELLIANUS THE LISIANTHUS FAB better known to the gardeners of a generation or more ago than it is to those of the present day was this beau- tiful Gentian Wort, for it was of old regarded as a good test of the cultivator's skill, a considera- tion not so much taken into account now as it once was. Seed of it can be obtained from most dealers, the supply, I believe, being principally ob- tained from Germany. At all events a packet of seed may now be bought for a shilling, which should be sown in the month of April. The soil best suited for this purpose is equal parts of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, the top layer being passed through a sieve with a quarter of an inch mesh. From iCB minute character the seed should be covered only with the merest sprinkling of dry sand, when, if a pane of glass is laid over the top and the whole placed in a structure kept at a temperature of 50° to 60* the young plants will soon make their appearance, and, directly they can be con- veniently handled, must be pricked off into pots or pans. The next shift will be into small pots, and if they go on well they will, by the middle of August, be sufficiently advanced to be shifted into pots 4 inches or 5 inches in diameter. Win- tered in a temperature of 50° to 60°, they may be shifted into larger pots about the end of February. The compost for the final shift will, of course, require to be coarser than that for the smaller pots, a very suitable mixture being two parts each of good yellow loam and leaf-mould, though some prefer peat instead of this last, and one part each of dried cow manure and coarse silver sand, the whole being thoroughly incorporated together, and in potting pressed down moderately firm. With this treatment one may reasonably look forward to a fine display in the month of August. large enough to handle. They grow fast, and may be potted into 3-inch pots, taking care to lift the plants with a ball of soil attached. Finally pot on into 4i-inch pots, which are usually of sufficient size. A few of the strong plants may be placed in 6-inch pots if larger specimens are required. This Lobelia, if grown in too poor a soil, is apt to cast its flowers much sooner than if treated more liberally. With good treatment the flowers are of a very rich colour and lasting. This plant should also prove useful as a bedder. CARNATION PROGRESS. Mb. a. Smiih of Enfield Highway recently sent me blooms of the above, which is another seedling of equal merit to the scarlet Britannia. The colour is a beautiful shade of pink, the large, full flowers having good petals and a perfect calyx. When calling at Mr. Smith's nursery some weeks ago I noted a fine batch of plants ; they were not in flower, but the plants were of good habit, and it will evidently make a free-flowering variety, and the flowers stand up well on good stems. We are promised further good things from the same source. A. H. BEGONIA TRIOMPHE DE NANCY. To the credit of M. Lemoine of Nancy stands Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, unquestionably the most popular Begonia of the present day. It was obtained by the intercrossing of the distinct B. socotrana with the South African B. Dregei. Even before B. Gloire de Lorraine was dis- tributed, M. Lemoine had sent out the variety Triomphe de Nancy, which has now almost dropped out of cultivation, though each recurring spring it forms a very pleasing feature in the Begonia house at Kew. It is a close compact plant, in which the influence of B. socotrana is more pro- nounced than it is in Gloire de Lorraine. The flowers of Triomphe de Nancy, which are borne in great profusion, are of a bright coral red colour. They are not large, and do not expand to the same extent as many other varieties. Plants in 5-inch pots, about a foot high, carry a wealth of bloom. H. P. ROSE GARDEN. A BEAUTIFUL LOBELIA. (L. TENCIOB.) This proves to be a most useful addition to our flowering plants. Its needs are not exacting, and it cannot fail to be appreciated by the amateur. Seeds sown early in spring and placed in a tem- perature of about 55° germinate quickly. To avoid the plants becoming drawn and weak place them on a shelf near the glass as soon as they are seen. Prick off into a moderately rich soil when LISIANTHUS BUSSBLLIANUS (A SHOWY GBBBNHOUSE PLANT WITH VIOLUTOOLOOEKD FLOWBES). {Reduced.) A batch of plants placed outside is looking very promising. The flowers exhibit a great variety of shades of carmine, crimson-magenta, purple, and a very rich purple-blue, and are produced very freely. The attractive plants of this Lobelia staged at the Temple Show should prove an inducement to all plant lovers to try this new strain of hybrid Lobelias. C. Rose. JOTTINGS ABOUT ROSES. ARTHA— A NEW ROSE— I think I shall be safe in prophesying that this new Rosewillbecome a favourite in English gardens. Not only does it appear to be the forerunner of an altogether new type, but it is an addition to the bedding Roses. Herr Peter Lambert, who seems in- defatigable in his endeavours to improve the dwarf Poly- anthas, obtained this variety by crossing Perpetual Thalia with the China Rose Mme. Laurette Messimy, and it may be said to be midway between the Chinas and the Fompones. At a distance the plant has something of the appearance of a China, the narrow light green foliage when young is edged with purple, and the growth is upright and branch- ing. The wood is fairly thorny, and is light green veined with dull red when young. The flowers are in huge clusters and sweetly scented ; when half expanded they are bright coppery rose with a yellow base fading to bright China rose with a white base. The colouring is new and distinct in the Pompone section, and as the plant grows well and is very free flowering, I feel sure that it will be much sought after as soon as it is procurable in any quantity. Tea Rose Eenbstine Verdier — This little-known decorative Tea -scented Rose was sent out by Ferny in 1893. The plant is of strong spreading growth, with large thorns and light purplish green wood. The flowers are generally pro- duced singly, and are extremely variable in colouring, usually a bronzy flesh, at times stained irregularly with a pale shade of mulberry. At other times, but only as a rule in the summer, 78 THE GAKDEN. [August 18, 1906. the flowers will eport so as to be almost unrecog- nisable. I have one before me now which is a deep salmon-rose veined with rosy carmine, and a small yellowish white base. The buds are pointed, of good form, a little impatient of wet, and delicately fragrant. If the petals are handled they will be found distinctly soft and silky to the touch, a peculiarity I have not observed in many other varieties. It has dropped out of most collections because its flowers, though distinct, have neither the substance nor the brilliancy of colouring required by present-day standards. Hybrid Tea Mobgbnbot. — I am not sure whether this should be grouped among the Hybrid Teas, though there undoubtedly must be a certain proportion of Tea blood in its constitution. scented ; the colour is a rich cream yellow paling to creamy white, midway between Aglaia and Electra. With me it is making strong growth set with large thorns, and has the typical shiny leaves of the multiflora parent. Whether it excels Electra, by far the best yellow multiflora in commerce, remains to be proved. The hybrids raised by Mr. G. L. Paul of Cheshunt between Celine Forestier and the mnltifloras are interest- ing, and one of these, named Goldfinch, is of much promise. This has the habit of Helene, and is midway bet ./een Helene and Electra. The colour is a deep old gold fading to white. Ami Stecher. — A Tea Rose sent out by Weber in 1S99. As a dwarf it is a complete failure, for it is of even worse habit than Niphetos ; the buds Mlle. Blanche Mabtignat. — One can see at a glance that this is a sport or a seedling from the beautiful Tea-scented Rose Marie van Houtte. The raiser, A. Gamon, distributed it in 1904, but it has not appeared in any English lists up to the present, so I presume it has been over- looked. My plant only reached me last autumn, but it has produced some fine flowers, and promises to equal its parent in growth and vigour. The flowers in form, shape, size, and fragrance are like those of Marie van Houtte ; in colouring, however, they are quite distinct, being richer and altogether more attractive. The outer petals of the buds are, as in Marie van Houtte, tinged with deep carmine-rose, but in this variety it is even more pronounced. The inner petals, instead of being lemon yellow, are suffused with delicate flesh pink faintly veined with carmine. In the expanded flower the petals are a pretty shade of flesh white edged with carmine- rose, the remainder being a light rich yellow, deepening towards the centre. The plant is of fine branch- ing growth with good foliage. It gives every appearance of being a variety of the highest excellenoe. Arthdb R. Goodwin. The Elms, Kidderminster. (To he continued ) BOSS MBS. JOHN LAINO IN EEVV GARDENS. With me it is perpetual, for after flowering a little behind Carmine Pillar, it was at the end of July producing buds upon laterals of fresh growth. At the latter part of June and early in July my plants afforded one of the most brilliant displays that I have ever seen produced by any newly-planted climbing Rose, and I now regard it as one of the most sterling novelties among the large number of single varieties distributed in recent years. Picture the flowers of Carmine Pillar, much intensified in colour and magnified in size, and you will get a good idea of Morgenrot. The buds are pointed, and an intense crimson opening 'into sweet - scented, large ■ petalled, brilliant light crimson flowers, with a large white centre and a fine boss of yellow stamens. They fade to light carmine-crimson just before dropping, but this is not an ugly shade as in some Roses. The growth is very strong — just what is wanted for a 6-foot hedge — with light green thorny wood and large light green polished leaves. Since the advent of Grii9s an Teplilz we have not had such a brilliantly effective garden plant, and I cnmmend it to all rosarians who are in search of a Rose of a really telling colour. AuGENSCHEiN. — This is a new climbing hybrid multiflora raised by Lambert of Trier from Eophrosyne, and an old pale canary yellow Tea Rose named Mme. Ocker Ferencz. It is early yet to judge of its behaviour as my plant is small. Unlike many of the multifloras, however, it evidently flowers upon small plants, and mine has produced some good trusses of bloom. The flowers are small, prettily shaped, and slightly actually grow downwards, so that it seems as if they were endeavouring to bury themselves in the surrounding soil. I have taken the trouble to insert some buds upon a dwarf standard Brier, simply because its colour — a deep ruddy crimson — is distinct among Tea-scented Roses. la this respect it quite surpasses Souvenir de Th^r^ie Levet, FraD9}is Diibreuil, andFrlquet, and gene- rally comes darker than Frincesse de Sagan, By the way, the last-mentioned Rose should not be grown in full sun if richly-tinted flowers are desired. I have several plants in half shade, and the flowers from these are dark, almost black, velvety crimson. Ami Steeher, if it will succeed as a standard, may be worth keeping, as it has good foliage, small, well-shaped, very fragrant flowers of splendid colour. KoNiQiN WiLHELMiNA. — A new Tea-scented Rose, distributed by a raiser named Verschuren, whose whereabouts is unknown to me. I received it from Herr Peter Lambert with a cordial recommendation which I am already able to endorse. Briefly described it is a Dr. Grill with the Mme. Abel Chatenay colouring, but of an even richer shade than the latter. The bud is of fine shape, opening into a large orange pink flower in which every petal reflexes, just giving the appearance of a Cactus Dihlia. When the Sower is fully expanded the outer petals fade to a rich silvery pink. In growth the plant seems j to be a counterpart of its seed parent. Dr. Grill, and it should prove a grand bedding Rose, quite i distinct from all other Tea-scented Roses. One of the finest noveltiei of the year. ROSE MRS. .JOHN LAING. Few, if any. Hybrid Perpetual varieties surpass the subject of this note for the decoration of the garden. It is also very popular as an exhibition variety, and under glass it is grown extensively to supply cut flowers for the market. The rosy pink flowers are large, of good shape, and full in petal. It has a delicious fragrance. The growth is vigorous, and it does equally well as a bush or standard. As may be seen from the illustra- tion, it was very fine at Kewat the beginning of July, where it is grown both as a standard and bush. There are a few nice flowers on the plants at the present time (the 2ad inst. ). In autumn plenty of flowers are usually to be found on the plants, and they are quite equal in colour to those produced earlier in the year. There are few varieties whose flowers pass through a shower of rain with less damage. Raised by the late Mr. Henry Bennett of Shepperton, it was exhibited by him at the National Rose Show held at South Kensington in July, 1885, when it received the gold medal as the best new variety of the year. Experts at the time predicted a great future for the Rose. It is a seedling from the variety Frar§ois Michelon. A. N. HYBRID TEA ROSE APOTHEKER G. HOFER. It has often been a matter of surprise to me that among Hybrid Tea Roses of high quality recom- mended by your contributors I have never seen Apotheker G. Hofer mentioned. My experience with this Rose is that it is in every way one of the best (if not the best) Hybrid Teas. Its health and vigour are remarkable, and it is almost the only Hybrid Tea in my collection that was quite uninjured by the late spring frosts of this season. The plant blooms abundantly. The size of the flowers is enormous, many being 6 inches in diameter, the colour a pinkish cerise, and it does not fade ; in fact, with me this Rose is absolutely sun-proof, and for lasting quality I do not know any, with the exception of Aotoine Rivoire, that can compare with it. I can strongly recommend this Rose. Alfred Bibd. The Hermitage, Whitchurch, Hants. August 18, 1906,] THE GARDEM 7& COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1305. MAY-FLOWERING TULIPS. IT is pleasing to observe the increasing interest which is being shown in the culture of these beautiful flowers, and as they become better known we feel sure their great value as decorative garden plants will be more highly appreciated by all lovers of hardy flowers. Their culture is of the simplest, and, being so perfectly hardy, are therefore well adapted for cultivation in herbaceous borders or beds, and for naturalisation in grass. They present a very wide and charming range of colour, comprising — with many intermediate shades — purple, crimson, scarlet, orange, yellow, rose-pink down to the purest white, and if planted in bold masses of dis- tinct varieties vrill brighten our gardens during the month of May with a wealth of bloom, richer and brighter and more varied in colour than anything else in its season can supply. in the accompanying illustration we have figured three very beautiful varieties, drawn from flowers grown by Messrs. Hogg and Kobertson, Limited, of Dublin, at their now well- known bulb farm " Holland in Ireland," where May- flowering Tulips are one of the specialities. The beautiful golden yellow of Mrs. James Robertson (a charming new variety of great merit), the rich warm orange- crimson of Gesneriana auran- tiaca, and the lovely heliotrope and yellow of Fairy Qaeen as seen growing side by side pre- sent a colour combination which it would be very difficult to surpass. As the autumn is approaching, and therefore the time for planting the bulbs, we draw attention now to these beautiful flowers. These have always been of a fresh green with me, and have never shown any other colouration. Unfortunately, it has not flowered with me, either in my former garden or in this, so that I can say nothing as to its flower value. As a purely foliage plant, however, it is certainly worth growing. It appears to be perfectly hardy, both in its former position at the base of a rockery, and in its present one in the border. It is not described in current works of reference, but we learn from the " Index Kewensis," that it is a native of Servia. Panoici is the authority for the name. Sunnymead, Dumfries. S. Arnott. weather be very dry, plenty of watering is desirable if the soil is light. The illustration depicts them growing on the Range Terrace at Kew, where six beds, each devoted to one shade of colour, were much admired during June and July. A. N. TIME FOR PLANTING LILY BULBS. It is a common practice to plant newly-purchased Lily bulbs direct into the ground in the spring, and when at Gunnersbury House recently Mr. Hudson drew my attention to the good results attending his practice by which bulbs never failed to make good growth. He makes up a bed of ashes solely in a sheltered position, and plants the bulbs in this bed in the spring. The temperature of the ashes is invariably higher than that of the open ground. In this ash bed the bulbs make good growth, and when well rooted, the growths being 15 inches to IS inches in height, they are carefully lifted and planted where wanted to grow. I saw clumps of bulbs that had been so treated, especially varieties of auratum, two, three, and four years planted, and all making splendid growth. The practice specially applies to all stem-rooting Lilies. A. D. ERYNGIUM SERBICUM. The excellent notes upon the Eryngiums, or Sea Hollies, by Mr. MaUett, in The Garden of beautiful blooma. A bed of'lxias' under a wall IRIS TINGITANA. Some years ago I wrote you stating how easily this flower is grown in full sun on a gravelly sub- soil. Since then I have moved to a colder district, and last year was the first time for four years that I had any flowers of tingitana, so it looks as if it wants plenty of warmth to flower freely. Av^tralia Leomaed Bctcklakd. IXIAS AND SPARAXIS. Somerset and Dorset may be added to South Devon and Cornwall as capable of producing FLOWER GARDEN ANNUAL LARKSPURS. A NNUAL Larkspurs, varie- /\ ties of Delphinium / % Ajaois, are very showy / \ hardy annuals. This / J^ remark is especially true of the double dwarf German Rocket (Hyacinth- flowered) varieties. The seeds are sold in separate colours or mixed. As there are upwards of a dozen different shades of colour, growers can select the particular shades they prefer. Light and dark blue, brick red, rose, white, and lilac are the most distinct. If the soil is light the seeds may be sown where the plants are to flower. This may be done in late autumn or spring ; generally plants from the former sowing give the better results. Where the soil is heavy the seeds should be sown in boxes and the seedlings transferred to their flowering quarters in April or early in May. Clumps of separate colours on a border or in separate beds are very effective. The plants grow 18 inches to 2 feet in height. The spikes are densely packed with flowers. Shuu'.d the A BED OF ANNUAL LARKSPURS IN THE ROYAL GARDENS, KKW. June 30, reminds me that one never sees any reference to another hardy species quite distinct in its general appearance from the others, and likely to be appreciated by all who prize plants with elegant foliage. This is E. serbicum, which I have had in my garden for several years. If I recollect rightly it came to me through Herr Max Leichtlin, to whom we owe so many good things. It is a small-growing plant, never reaching with me more than 1 foot or 18 inches in height, and composed of thin stems, bearing very finely-divided leaves, more like those of some of the grasses than of the Eryngiums. facing west, in a town garden belonging to D.\ G. Flower of Yeovil, an ardent horticulturist, so enchanted me with its beauty two years ago that I at once procured some bulbs for my garden just over the Dorset Border. List year the result was good. This year transplanted bulbs in a border facing south, and protected by the house from north winds, are now showiug buds ready to burst. Gordon Wickham. Bradford Ahbas, Sherborne, Dorset. "T." (Aylesburj) writes: "Ixias are quite hardy here." 80 THE GARDEN. [August 18, 1906 GARDENING FOR B6GINN6RS, POTTING EARLY-FLOWERING BULBS.— If the bulbs have to be purchased, Freeeias should be obtained at once and potted immediately. We place twelve bulbs in each 5 inch pot because we want the pots to be full of growth and flowers. A little extra feeding when the Sowers show will give substance. Cover rather more than half an inch deep. Good loam and leaf-mould in equal parts with a tenth part of sand will make a suitable compost for all bulbs potted at this season. Old manure may be used instead of leaf-mould if it is more con- venient. Pot rather firmly, and plunge the pots up to the rims outside in Cacoanut fibre or ashes. Move to light greenhouse when some progress has been made. Freesias will not bear much heat, therefore to obtain flowers quickly the bulbs must be potted early. The largest bulbs are the best, though even large bulbs may sometimes disappoint through not being well ripened. Those who grow their own bulbs give them a good roasting in the sunshine when the growth loses colour, gradually reducing the water. In all cases of home-grown bulbs they are sorted and the largest potted by themselves for early flowering. The smaller bulbs will give useful flowers for cutting, and may be planted some- what thickly in boxes and grown on shelves in a light greenhouse when well started outside. Roman Hyacinths ought to be potted now for early flowering. We have only one compost for bulb-growing, composed of good loam, leaf-mould, a dash of old manure, and some sand, all the materials to be fresh and sweet by previous exposure to the atmosphere, but not dust-dry, when used, the loam to be fibry, and the leaf- mould passed through a coarse sieve to remove fragments of wood and stones. The manure should be well broken up, but not sifted, and the sand coarse, sharp, and free from earthy matter. There need be no limit to the size of pot, as everything depends upon the use made. If flowers are wanted for cutting, the bulbs may be planted in boxes or large pots ; if required for filling vases or bowls, we have started them singly in small pots and transferred them to the bowls when the spikes are rising. This can be done without check ; all checks are harmful. Sphag- num moss and Cocoanut fibre may play an important part in filling bowls with early- flowering bulbs. In potting bulbs, do not ram the soil hard in the bottom beneath the bulbs. A medium course is best. If made too hard, the roots cannot easily penetrate it and the bulb is thrust out of the soil in the struggle of the roots to obtain a grasp of it ; but the soil should be pressed firmly round the bulba on the surface. Hyacinths. — In potting, these should be left level with the soil, and, if possible, plunged out- side 6 inches deep in Cocoanut fibre, though when forcing many bulbs I have obtained good results by covering Tulips, Hyacinths, and Narcissi with long litter somewhat heavily, by which a great saving of labour is effected. The Dutch, Roman, or miniature Italian Hyacinths under similar treatment come in immediately after the French- grown Romans, and are very useful for cutting, the flowers being larger and longer in the spikes. Early -flowering Narcissi should be potted or boxed now for early flowering, and be covered outside with litter. The double variety of Van Sion is one of the first to flower. There is a single variety of this which flowers early, and, though rather inferior, anything that comes in first is appreciated. The early-flowering Pheasant's- SIMPLE HINTS. eye (N. ornatus) if potted or boxed now will flower early in the new year. — H. Gathering Apples and Pears. — The gathering of Apples and Pears at the right time is a very important matter. I have seen whole shelves laden with Apples, which were greatly shrivelled, even after being gathered only a few weeks. Now, this is wrong, and any person entrusted with the gathering of these two valuable kinds of fruit ought to know when they are in a fit condition for storing. Unsuitable, badly-venti- lated rooms, the temperature in which rises and falls considerably, cause the fruits stored in them to shrivel even when they are harvested in good condition. But when gathered too early, and then subjected to such bad treatment, the speci- mens are not fit for table use or for market purposes, and for exhibition each fruit must be perfectly fresh and firm if prizes are to be gained. It is not wise to gather all the fruit off one tree at one time, unless all are ready, as many fruits set later than others on the same tree. A good test of proper maturity for harvesting is the raising of a specimen from the perpendicular to the horizontal position ; if it readily parts from the branch when the horizontal position is gained, the fruit is fit to gather. The fruit should never HOW TO GATHER PBABS. be forcibly pulled away from the tree. In the sketch A shows a Pear suspended naturally from a branch. When raised from C to D the Pear, B, will part from the branch if it is ripe ; the arrow E points to the parting of the stem. — Avon. Pruning Roses. — It may seem rather inoppor- tune to write about pruning Roses, but, upon consideration, it is more seasonable than upon first thoughts one would think to be the case. It is, of course, an all-important matter that the shoots of Rose bushes and climbers should be well ripened, and this can only be accomplished by giving them free and full exposure to sun and air. If this is done the shoots become hard and matured, otherwise they are quite likely to remain soft, green, and sappy. In order to allow the shoots full exposure, it goes without saying that they must not be crowded. Daring the summer months it is more than likely that a number of small and weaklj' shoots have deve- loped on one's Rose bushes in addition to those which have grown and flowered well. They are useless, and more than useless, for they are harmful also, in that they obstruct the free ingress of light and air to the plant. Such shoots should be cut right out down to the base ; it is no use to cut them back. If the bushes are care- fully examined, it will doubtless be found that there are also other shoots that might well be removed. They mav cross in the centre of the bush, or there may be more than there is room for. Such growths should also be removed. The aim of the gardener should be to keep the centre of the Rose bush open, to cut out weakly and crowded shoots, leaving only so many as can properly ripen and make a well-balanced plant. It is far better to have half-a-dozen good, well- matured shoots on a Rose bush than ten or twelve which are more or less crowded, and consequently weak and not properly ripened. Now is the time to do this thinning. It is far better to cut the superfluous shoots away now than to allow them to crowd the others and cut them out in the spring. It is even more important, perhaps, to see that the shoots of climbing Roses are attended to in this respect, for as the long growths made this year are expected to blossom almost their full length next year, it is essential that they should be well ripened. If it is necessary to cut out any growths, out out those which have flowered. Planting Bulbs. — Wise gardeners always plant their bulbs early. Some enthusiasts put in most of their bulbs in July, while, curiously enough, most amateur gardeners postpone their planting until November. Far better results are obtained by planting now than by deferring the work until late autumn. You will be rewarded in the spring by a more vigorous plant and by an earlier and a better blossoming. When one's bulbs are in a border of mixed herbaceous peren- nials it is a difficult matter to plant early without spoiling the appearance of the latter. An excellent plan to adopt when bulbs are grown, if it can possibly be carried out, is to keep a border apart and devote it to the cultivation of spring- flowering bulbs and other spring plants and to annuals. When the bulbs are over the seeds of annuals may be sown among them, and a second and equally delightful display of flowers will be had. If this plan is carried out the mixed border proper can be devoted to herbaceous perennials, an arrangement that will give far more satisfac- tion. Even when some of the spring flowers are over, such for instance as Arabis and Aubrietia, their masses of cool green leafage still render them ornamental throughout the summer, and serve as a foil to the brilliant colours of the showy annuals. As the seedlings of the annuals develop, so the leaves of the bulbous plants die away, and by the time the former are in bloom there is no trace of the latter to be seen. When the annuals have finished flowering, which will be by about the end of August, they are simply pulled up and thrown away, and the bulbs can be attended to, lifting and replanting those that require it, and putting in fresh bulbs where necessary. Sowing Annuals in the Autumn. — The usual practice is to sow the seeds of annual flowers in the spring ; it is, however, preferable to sow some, at any rate, in the autumn for more reasons than one. In the first place, the plants are far more vigorous from the autumn than from the spring sowing, and yield a fine and earlier harvest of flowers, and their season of blooming is extended. Secondly, instead of having the ground bare during the dreary winter months, the annuals give some life to the border, and add an interest to the garden in winter that otherwise would be at rest. If the seeds are sown now the plants will become well estab- lished before the winter sets in ; they will not August 18, 1906.] THE GAKDEN. 81 make much progress during the winter months, of course, but with the return of brighter and warmer weather they will start into growth vigorously, and quickly develop into good plants twice the size of those obtained from spring sowing. By the time the latter are half grown, the autumn-sown plants will be in flower, and they will hardly be over before then. Needless to say it is all important to thin the plants out well, more important than ever, in fact, for naturally with a longer season of growth they will make much larger plants, and therefore need more space. Same of the more popular annuals which may profitably be sown in the autumn are Candytuft, Larkspur, CoUinsia bicolor, Nigella (Love-in-a-Mist), Clarkia, Sweet Peas, Godetia, and annual Chrysanthemums. THE GREENHOUSE. The Maiden's Wreath (Francoa ramosa). — A very pretty greenhouse plant, the flowers white and in long, slender spikes, but in the kind called F. appendiculata they are reddish. Both are very easily grown in any ordinary potting soil, such as would be used for a Geranium or Fuchsia. The Freesia. — It is a pity that this sweet- smelling flower is not more grown, not only by amateurs in general, but by the beginner. F. refracta alba is the commonest, the flowers being white with a yellowish blotch. Immense numbers of Freesia bulbs are sent to this country every year from the Channel Islands and the South of France. They usually reach here during August, and should be potted as soon as possible after that date. Eight bulbs in a 5-inch pot are effective when in flower, or, if larger masses are desired, twelve may be put in a 6-inch pot. A suitable soil is composed of two-thirds loam, one- third leaf-mould, and a little sharp silver sand. The bulbs in potting should be put at such a depth that they are covered with almost three- quarters of an inch of soil. Then, if possible, place them in a frame with plenty of air, this amount of protection being necessary only to keep off rains. Keep the soil slightly moist when the plants make their appearance, after which increase it, but avoid an excess at all times. As autumn advances, take the plants to the green- house, and choose as light and airy a position as possible. After the flowering time is over, water them regularly until the foliage shows signs of decay, when gradually withhold water, and place the pots on a shelf to ripen the bulbs well. They must then be kept quite dry, and in August ■hake free from the old soil and repot as directed for imported bulbs. Cherry Pie or Heliotrope. — The fragrance of this flower is well known. It is a general favourite both in the greenhouse and out of doors. It requires much the same attention as the Fuchsia, except that it must be kept some- what warmer during the winter months, otherwise the leaves are apt to be attacked with mildew, which causes many sf them to shrivel. The best varieties are : President Garfield, mauve-purple ; Priapo, blue with a white eye ; Roi des Noirs, maroon-purple ; and White Lady, nearly white. The Fuchsia. — One of the first greenhouse plants to be grown by the beginner. The plant is very easily raised from cuttings of the young growing shoots taken in spring, and dibbled into pots of sandy soil and placed in a close propagat- ing case in gentle heat. The warmest part of the greenhouse will do if there is no other. When rooted, bring them to stand the ordinary atmosphere of the greenhouse, and as soon as possible pot off singly into small pots. Use a soil made up of equal parts loam and leaf-mould and half a part of silver sand. Shift these small plants when ready into larger pots, and prick out the young growing tops occasionally to induce a bushy growth. For this second potting some loam and a little well-decayed cow manure may be added to the soil. They will grow and flower well in the greenhouse during summer, and enjoy a moderate amount of shade during the hottest part of the day. In the winter the leaves fall, when the soil may he kept almost dry, but not parched up. Fuchsias may be stored anywhere safe from frost, but directly signs of growth appear, remove them to a light position on the stage of the greenhouse. Thf Best Fuchsias.— S'mgle dark : Abel Kader, Abundance, Champion, Charming, Elegance, Gertrude Pearson, Lord Byron, President, Royal Purple, Scarcity, Valiant, and Wave of Life. Single light : Beauty of Trowbridge, Lady Hesterbury, Lustre, Lady Doreen Long, Minnie Banks, Rose of Castile Improved, and Princess May. Single, white corolla : De Goncourt, Delight, Fleur de Neige, and Tournefort. Single, orange-tinted corolla: EarlofBeaoonsfield, Mrs. Rundell, Prince of Orange, and Swanley Yellow. Single self white flower : Countess of Aberdeen. Double dark : A. de Neuville, Avalanche, Champion of the World, Comte Leo Tolstoi, Doris, La France, M. Alphand, Marvellous, and Phenomenal. Double white corolla: Ballet Girl, Duo d'Aumale, Duchess of Edinburgh, Frau Emma Topfer, Mme. Jules Chretien, and Mme. Girnot. BOOKS. The Book of Market Gapdeningr.* Intensive cultivation of the land becomes of more importance every year as the population increases, and ordinary field or farm practice is found in- sufficient for the requirements of the times. The demand for information advances in similar pro- portion, as many agriculturists or horticulturists seek to extend their enterprises in more profitable directions, and to augment the returns from the land in their occupation. It is mainly, however, in beginning a new form of employment that mistakes are made, and guidance at this time is greatly needed upon numerous matters, including the methods most likely to yield satisfactory results. Market gardening is so distinct as a business, and involves an intimate knowledge of so many details, that some of the most experienced cultivators find themselves at a loss when launching out in commercial undertakings. Thorough consideration of the essentials at starting, and a due recognition of the value of systematic organisation, yield substantial assistance which any observant thoughtful man should be able to modify and adapt to his own special circnmstanees. To supply such aid is evidently the object of the book under notice, which merits the close attention of landowners and cultivators of all classes, as Mr. Castle, the author, knows his subject thoroughly. The work is essentially a practical guide for all concerned in improving the productive powers of land, and while calculated to help the extension of a great industry, it will serve to keep the advance within the limits dictated by experience, thus reducing the pro- portion of failures due to ill-advised or badly- organised schemes. It is stated in the preface ' ' An attempt has been made to indicate the directions in which cultivators can help their own progress with advantage, and to show the methods adopted by growers who have made commercial gardeninga highly successful business. The author's only object has been to set out in plain language the results of thirty years' practical experience and close study in the United Kingdom and on the Continent." The book comprises 170 pages, and the subject is treated in ten sections, as follow : The Selection of Land ; Labour Questions and Difficulties ; Crops, Methods, and Management ; Important Details in Commercial Gardening ; Preparing "The Book of Market Gardening." By E. Lewis Castle. London : John Lane. Price 23. 6ii. Produce for Sale ; Grading for Profit ; Methods of Packing ; The Distribution of Produce ; The Conveyance of Produce ; and Subjects Worth Attention. Under each head numerous details of interest and importance are dealt with ; for example, the third section includes a discussion of specialisation, vegetables, hardy fruits, plants and flowers, arrangement of crops, economy in production, the use of fertilisers, insects and diseases, cultivation under glass, and cultural essentials. In the fourth division also considera- tioij is given to the selection of kinds and varieties, variety trials, earliness, productiveness, constitution and duration, and appearance and quality. Grading and packing are deservedly treated at some length, and Mr. Castle has previously given useful information on these important subjects in the essay which won the Fruiterers' Company's prize and gold medal a year or two since, also in a treatise which appeared in the Journal of the Board of Agriculture ; and which was subsequently issued as one of the Board's valuable series of leaflets. Too much attention cannot be paid to the grading and packing of produce for market, as the interests of both grower and consumer are intimately concerned. The difficulties attending distribution of garden produce are fully discussed and possible improve- ments suggested, while in connexion with the conveyance of crops by road the use of motors and tractors is described and illustrated. The scope of the work can be judged by the indica- tions given here, and it only remains to add that the book is well printed and strongly bound, including several illustrations, mostly reproductions from photographs. GARDENING OF THE WEEK. FLOWER GARDEN. WATERING is, during this month, one of the principal items of work in the flower garden. The autumnal display of flowers depends very largely upon the treatment the plants receive during this month. Helianthus, Heleniums, Michaelmas Daisies, Kniphofias, Phloxes, Rud- beckias, Anemone japonica, Pyrethrum uligino- sum, Montbretias, Chrysanthemums, Silvias, and Lobelia cardinalis are some of the plants that must be well supplied with water, as they are indispensable flowers for the herbaceous border in autumn. Pkopagatino Hebbackous Plants — Many plants are now going out of flower. This is the best time to divide any that show signs of exhaus- tion. A nursery bed assigned to them in the kitchen garden would minimise labour, as by having them all together the frequent waterings they will require can be more expeditiously done. If there is a difficulty in finding room for a nursery bed, make use of the three year old Strawberry bed, trenching from time to time just what is required as the various plants are ready for division. They take hold of the fresh soil at once, and from October to the following March, as weather and opportunity permit, they are transplanted to the various positions assigned to them on the borders. The nursery bed being cleared, it is then generally used for an Oaion crop. EREJinRi. — These noble plants are worthy of a little extra care required to cultivate them suc- cessfully. The mixed hardy flower border is not a suitable place for them. A site should be chosen, sheltered from north and east by an evergreen fence or a group of shrubs, but open to the south. It is essential that the crowns should receive all the sunshine possible during the ripening period previous to going to rest. From now to the middle of September is the best 82 THE GARDEN. [August 18, 1906. time to plant Eremuri. They thrive splendidly in deep, rich sandy loam. Where the soil is not of this nature, beds should be specially pre- pared for them by digging out the soil 2J feet in depth. This is sufficient, as they are surface- rooting plants. Perfect drainage is essential and must be secured. A compost consisting of light, fibrous loam, well-decajed old hot-bad manure, and leaf-mould in equal proportions, with the addition of some sharp sand and a little wood ashes, suits them admirably. Experiences dififer ; some recommend never disturbing them when once established. I lift my plants every two or three years according to the growth they have made. A strong, single crown pushes up a flower- spike from its centre. Two new crowns are thus formed. These will flower the next year in like manner. Four flowering crowns are pro- duced in two year? ; it is then best to lift th- plants. This requires considerable care, as ths roots are extremely brittle and liable to injury. Commence by digging a trench some distance from the plants. Most of the roots will be found within 1 foot of the turface. Clear away all tf.e soil from underneath with a fork. Although the roots will probably be found to extend from 3 feet to 4 feel from the centre of the plant, these may all be shortened to within 18 inches of the crown. This will not hurt the plants. Tne embryo spike is already formed in the crown, and sufficient nutriment to support ii will be left iu the old roots. Simultaneously wiih the pushing of fresh leaves, new roots are formed to support them, building up crowns for the next flowering. The new bed being pre- viously got ready by filling in the prepared compost to within 1 foot of the required level, small mounds are then made, each with about a bushel of the compost plaotd about 4 feet apart to receive the plants. The bed is then filled in to the required level. When all is finished the crowns are about 2 inches under the surface. The kinds grown here, which I can recommend, are Robustus, Elwesianus, Himalaicus, Olgse, and Buneei. G D. Davison. We--twick Gardens, Norwich. OECHIDS. L^LIA ANCEPS AND ITS VARIETIES are now producing new growth, and require special attention in order to ensure ihe production of their flower-scapes. The white varieties, such as L. a. sanderiana, L, a. Stella, L. a WiUiamsii, &o., are shy-flowering, and unless suitable condi- tions can be provided for them they seldom bloom. The growths of these white varieties, which are produced early in the summer, seldom produce flower-scapes, so the main object to bear in mind should be to keep ihe plants at rest as late in the summer as possible. Plants which are producing their growths at the present time should flower, providing they are well rooted and grown under favourable conditions. They require a position near the roof-glass in a house where a temperature of about 65" to 70" is maintained. Ventilation should be given freely when the conditions outside are favourable. They should be examined every morning, and any requiring it should be well watered, and when the weather is fine they may be given a good syringing over- bead. Just a thin shading should be placed over them during the hottest hours of the morning. This should be removed about three o'clock in the afternoon, and the surroundings of the plants well damped and all the ventilators closed. They should then be syringed overhead again, so that the conditions in the house will be very hot and humid for the rest of the afternoon. The venti- lators should be opened again during the evening and left open all night ; to what extent depends entirely upon the weather. Hybrid Calanthes. — Calanthe Veitchi, C. Regneri, C. vestita, and their hybrids are now growing vigorously, and many are beginning to develop their pseudo - bulbs. They require abundance of water at the root now, and may be watered once a week with liquid cow manure diluted with tepid rain water. They should be given as much room as will allow the air to circu late freely between them. If the plants are staged thickly together a few may be suspended from the roof, and thus allow the others to be thinned out. The leaves may be sponged occasionally with weak insecticide, as their under surface is often attacked by red spider. In the Warm House all the Vandas, Aerides, and Saccolabiums are rooting freely, and should be given a copious supply of water at the root. The new aerial roots should be trained into the compost wherever it is possible. Keep the atmo- sphere well charged with moisture in all the Orchid houses for the next two months, and keep the plants free from insect pests by sponging the leaves with insectide and fumigating the houses occasionally with XL All Compound. W. H Page. Chardwar Oardens, Bourtonon the- Water, Olos. FRUIT GARDEN. Summer Pruning. — The continuation of summer pruning will still engage the attention of the fruit grower. Many of the trees that were stopped some few weeks ago in the earlier districts have pushed forward a quantity of secondary growths which should be stopped. The removal of all superfluous growths will assist greatly the final swelling and the colour- ing of the fruit. Remove any gross growing shoots, also others if they are too thickly set together, and shorten all the remaining laterals to five or six leaves. Short sturdy growths of from 4 inches to 6 inches long usually produce a fruit bud at the extremity of the shoot ; these should be carefully left, especially on those varieties which produce their fruit principally from the point of the preceding year's growth. Such trees require the removal of the old fruit- ing wood and the weakly growths after the fruit has been gathered, but no stopping should be done. In the case of young trees trained as pyramids or bushes, it will be necessary to have a few new growths for forming additional branches. A great difference may be seen in the habit of difiterent varieties, and there can be no hard and fast rule laid down as to the exact distance that should be allowed between the branches. As a general rule, which may be modified however in cases of extra weak or unusually strong growing varieties, when the main branches exceed 2 feet from one another, a young shoot should be selected in a suitable place for forming an additional branch. Standard-trained Apples and Pears require similar treatment in the matter of providing additional branches as the . head of the tree develops, stopping all the laterals at the fifth or sixth leaf for forming fruit spurs, and leaving all leading shoots, except a few of the very strongest, their full length to be treated during the winter pruning. Early Pears.— Several varieties of Pears ripen this month, and these should be gathered before they are fully ripe. Small gatherings should be made frequently, gathering in each case the finest fruits. The remaining fruit will continue to grow, and it gathered at intervals of about a week will keep up the supply for a considerable reason. Protection from Birds. — Provision should be made for having all the trees, especially those growing on walls, protected by nets as early as possible. In some gardens, unless they are pro- tected, the greater proportion of the crop will be rendered useless by being damaged by the birds, and as prevention is better than cure, it may be wise policy to net bush and pyramid trees as well before the work of destruction is commenced. Early Kitchen Apples, if the crop is heavy, may be reduced in number as soon as they are large enough for cooking, which will enable those left on the trees to improve in size. Old-estab- lished trees in orchards, which are carrying good average crops, would be much benefited if given a good soaking of liquid manure, or, if the weather proves showery, a light dressing of sulphate of ammonia and sulphate of potash in equal parts may be distributed over the surface of the soil above their roots. Sweet Cherries, early Peaches, and Nec- tarines, or other early cropi that have finished fruiting, should have the foliage thoroughly washed with an insecticide to rid them of insect pests. The foliage being now matured and firm in texture will not sufTer readily from a strong application of insecticide. Qlamis. Thomas R. Wilson. KITCHEN GARDEN. Onions. — The sowing of Oaions for transplanting in the spring should be taken in hand at once, and should be done in the same manner as advised for the spring sowing ; quite as much care must be taken in the preparation of the ground. The time of sowing is important, and the most suitable time can best be judged by local experience, as the Oaions should be forward enough before winter to be useful, but not so forward as to be in danger of injury from severe frost. The quantity sown must of course depend on the demand, but in districts where spring-sown Onions do not usually ripen well on account of the wet autumn, a large sowing should be made, as the transplanted Onions ripen during the b'>st part of the year. The Tripoli varieties are the most suitable for autumn sowing, though White Spanish and other varieties are sometimes grown with success. Oaions of last jeai's autumn sowing should now be quite ripe ; store them in a cool airy place. Handle with care, for bruised Onions do not keep well. Encourage the main crop to make as much growth as possible, giving plentiful supplies of water should the weather be dry. To big < Inions, grown for special purposes, give regularly a little stimulant such as a light dressing of nitrate of soda or Clay's Fertilizer, and water it in. Turnips — Thin to 8 inches or 9 inches Red Globe Turnips that are being grown for winter use, and encourage them to make as much growth as possible. The sowing of yellow Turnips should now be made. The yellow varieties are not generally used in the kitchen, but are allowed to remain in the ground all the winter, and the tops used as a green vegetable in the spring-time. Sow in rows 1 foot apart and thin to 6 inches when large enough to handle. Orange Jelly or Golden Ball is a suitable variety for this sowing, so also is All the Year Round. Peas — Late varieties of Peas should now be making good growth. Give abundant supplies of water, with occasional waterings of liquid manure water. See that the sticks are giving the necessary support to the haulm. If weak places are noticed a few additional sticks must be added to withstand the strong winds gene- rally so prevalent in early autumn. Should mildew make its appearance, steps should be taken at once to arrest the spread of the disease. Frequently dusting with dry sulphur is a good remedy, but good cultivation and keeping the roots cool and well supplied with water is the best preventive. Parsley. — Parsley plants for standing the winter must not be allowed to go too long before being thinned to a distance of 5 inches or 6 inches. The thinnings may be pricked out in a nicely prepared piece of ground in a sheltered position or into a cold pit where protection can be given in the case of a severe winter. In dry situations keep Parsley well supplied with water. Parsley that has stood some time will become coarse, and should be cut over to encourage fresh growth. Spinach. — Make another sowing of Prickly Spinach for winter work. Sow also some rows of Spinach Beet, which is a useful substitute in hard weather if the supply of the ordinary August 18, 1906.] THE GAEDEN. 83 Spinach should rua short. A little more space should be allowed between the rows of the Spinach Beet than is allowed for the Prickly. Thin previous sowings as soon as the seedlings can be handled easily. J. Jaques. Bryanston Gardens, Blandford. THE EDITOR'S TABLE. WE invite our readers to send us anjrthing of special beauty and interest for our table, as by this means many rare and interesting plants become more widely known. We hope, too, that a short cultural note will accompany the flower, so as to make a notice of it more instructive to those who may wish to grow it. We welcome anything from the garden, whether fruit, tree, shrub. Orchid, or hardy flower, and they should be addressed to The Editor, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. CaTTLEYA GASKBLLIiNA SCAMPSTON HaLL Varieties. From The Gardens, Scampston Hall, Killing- ton, Yorks, Mr. F. 0. Puddle sends a flower of a form of Cattleya gaskelliana bearing the above name. It is a bloom of good form and delicate colouring. Sepals and petals are whitish, the lip is chiefly purple with a broad margin of white, and the throat is golden-yellow. Lobelia tbnuiok. From The Gardens, Cottingham House, Cot tingham, Yorks, Mr. Henry Brolherston sends flowering shoots of a pretty pink variety of Lobelia tenuior. If the colour of the blooms sent can be kept constant it should be worth keeping. Mr. Brotherston writes : " I have about fifty plants of the blue tenuior, and finding a pink one among them I was most careful in saving it, and it is now a fine plant covered in bloom. As you may know the blue one closes at night. I have carefully watched this pink one and find that it does not close its petals during the night." ESGLISH-GBOWN DaRWIN TuLIP BuLBS. Messrs. J. B. Pearson and Sons, Chilwell Nurseries, Lowdham, Notts, send splendid samples of home-grown bulbs of Darwin Tulips. We have always contended that more bulb grow- ing should be undertaken in these isles than is at present the case. Those sent are " to show that our English soil will produce as good bulbs as any Dutch soil ; in fact, we never buy any so fine from any other source." SwHET Pba Salopian. Mr. E, Boyle, The Gardens, Dunham Lawn, Bowdon, sends a stem with six flowers on it of the variety Salopian. We noticed recently a stem of the variety America with five blooms. RECENT PLANT PORTRAITS. The Botanical Magazine for August contains portraits of Ehodostachys Pitcaimeoides. — Nitive of Chili. This is an exceedingly handsome Bromeliad, which flowered for the first time In November last in the collection of Major W. L. Harvey at Tredarvah, near Penzance. BulbophyUum Ericssoni — Native of Malay Archipelago. This is an ugly Orchid with green- brown spotted flowers ; it is merely of botanical interest. Boronia fastigiata. — Native of Western Australia. This is a very pretty greenhouse plant, with bi;ncbes of pink powers, Codonopsis Tangahen. — Native of China. This is a curious campanulaceous trailer, with round pale greenish yellow flowers of little beauty. The plant is interesting mainly from its roots yielding a drug in common use among the Chineee and known as the Bastard Ginseng. Hedysarum multijugum var. apiculatum. — Native of Central Asia. This is a very bright and beautiful shrub, producing in great profusion long racemes of deep rose-coloured Pea-shaped flowers. It is an immense improvement on the type form, whose flowers are smaller and duller in colour. It is quite hardy at Kew, and flowers during June and July. The Revue Horticole for the 1st inst. figures Aristolochia ornithocephala (or the Bird- headed) — This is a curious plant, with large flowers of no beauty and merely of botanical interest. The Revue de I' horticulture Beige for August figures the beautiful and well-known Iris Lorteti, of which no description is necessarv. W. E GUMBLBTON. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Ansnreps.— TAe Bditor intends to make Tes Gabden helpfiil to all readers uho desire assistance, no matter what the branch 0/ gardening may be, and vrith that object will make a special feature of the "Answers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tions shouM be clearly emd concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the KDrrOB of The OABDBH, «0, Tavistock Street, Covmt Garden, W.C. Letters on business should be sent to the Fcblibhbb. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. FLOWER GARDEN. Plants for Hot, Light Soil {Sunbaked). — An extremely difficult matter to advise upon, as, judging by your letter, very few plants are likely to thrive, and then the subject is still further complicated by omitting all that bloom during the most floriferous months of the year. The following might suit — Of herbaceous plants : Achillea Millefolium rubrum, A. The Pearl, Anemone japonica, Belladonna Lilies, Eryngium olivierianum, Galega officinalis, Hemerocallis flava, H, middendorfiana. Iris germanica in great variety, Megaseas of sorts, Saxifragas, and Sadums. Of shrubs : Cistus of difi'arent kinds, Colutea arborescens, Cytisus albus, C. piaeoox, C. scoparius in variety. Genista hispanica, G. tinctoria flore-pleno, Helianthemums, Spartium junoeum, Ulex europsei flore - pleno (double Furze), Yucca glorioaa, and Y. recurva. Of wall plants there are : Clematis, early flowering, Forsythia suspensa, Ivies of different kinds, Jasminum nudiflorum, J. wallichianum, Passi- flora caerulea, and P Contance Elliott. Madonna Lilt Diseased [Miss Lindsay). — Your Lilies are suffering from the disease which of late has been so prevalent and disastrous to this and other species. All you can do at the present time is to collect and burn all the diseased stems and leaves, and, as a further precautionary measure, some of the surface soil around the clumps of bulbs. If the disease is as yet confined to the stems only, you will do no good in lifting the bulbs ; but if you decide to lift the bulbs for the purpose of giving a change of position, you might place them in a bag of sulphur, and so shake them that the sulphur gets well into and among the scales. This may destroy any germs of the disease present. The disease, however, is largely the result of climatic conditions, and a good plan will be, when growth commences another year, to spray the stems with sulphur in solution, not waiting for the disease to appear. Once the disease puts in an appearance in a garden it is most difficult to eradicate it. The germs of the fungus being present, are only waiting for the requisite conditions of atmosphere to spring in active being. Plants for Small Gardens {W. G. Lam- bert).—We think Roses would look better than anything in the bed you propose to make at the end of the lawn. You would get a better effect by planting it with one variety only, choosing some free-flowering sort, such as Frau Karl Druschki (white), Caroline Teatout (pink), Cap- tain Haywatd (red), or Corallina (coral red). You might grow several flowering climbers on your fence as well as fruit trees if you wished. You do not give us the aspect of your garden, but on the eastern or northern side of the fence vou might plant the winter-flowering Jasmine, Forsythia europjea (which bears yellow flowers in winter), Morello Cherries, Pears, or Plums. If the fence faces south or west, you might have Roses, Honeysuckle, Clematis, Pyrus japonica (red flowers in spring), Ceanothus, or such fruits as Cherries, Apricots, and Pears. We do not quite understand what you mean by planting espaliers ; if you mean espalier fruit trees by the sides of the walks we think it a good idea. Your mixed border should be planted chiefly with showy perennials, such as Hollyhocks, Phloxes, Delphiniums, Lupines, Lychnis chalcedonicum, Gaillardia, Helenium, Carnations, and others. If you wish for further detailed information as to lists of plants or fruit trees, please write again giving fuller particulars. Gladioli (Broadgates). — Oiyea a (airly open, well- drained soil and a sheltered spot, Gladioli may be left in the ground all the year. They will be greatly helped if mulched with a layer of decayed leaves. The hardiest section is that known as Gladiolas Lemoinei, of which there are a great many vnrieties. Plants Dying Off (/■.).— The plants have succumbed to an attack of fungus, for which, once the plants are attacked, there is but little chance of recovery. By work- ing lime rather freely Into the surface-soil prior to planting, such attacks are greatly modi&ed and at times prevented. Take care that the diseased plants do not remain Iour in position, but burn them at once. If the plants continue to go off, try syringing with permanganate of potash, diluted until it becomes a pale rose colour. Hollyhock Kust (C Gadesden).— The leaves of your Hollyhocks are very badly attacked by the fungus known as the Hollyhock rust (Puccinea malvacearnm). This disease a few years ago nearly killed off all the Hollyhocks in the country. Such leaves as you sent should be picked off at once and burnt, and the remainder sprayed on both Bides with Bordeaux Mixture or sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) ; 2^02. dissolved in 6 gallons of water. Another season keep a look-out for the disease, and on its first appearance pick off the infested leaves and spray as recommended three times with Intervals of one week. As soon as the plants are out of flower cut them down and burn them.— Q. S. 8. " Snake Millipbdes (ff. E(uijield).—Yoar Pansy roots are attacked by enake millipedes (Julus terrestrls). These are most destructive creatures, not only to Pansies — of which they are particularly fond— but also to most other plants. They are very dlBBcult pests to destroy. Insecti- cides have little or no effect on them ; their skins are so homy and smooth that Insecticides do not adhere to them. If your plants are isolated ones, I should take up those which appear to be suffering from the attacks of this pest, see that none are among the roots, and then soak the ground from which you have taken them with boiling water. There Is nothing to show what has been the cause of the injury to the collar of your Lavateras ; they have evidently been gnawed by something. It would be useful to examine the roots at night-time, as many insects only feed at night, and hide themselves very carefully during the day.— G. S. S. TREES AND SHRUBS. Growth of Coniters {W. W.). — The rate of growth and other particulars of the different conifers concerning which you enquire vary a good deal according to soil and situation, but we herewith give the approximate details. Thuja Lobbi (T. gigantea). — The tallest specimens in this country are about 80 feet high. A large specimen needs a space at least 20 feet to 25 feet in diameter. When once established it mounts up for a dozen years or more at the rate of 18 inches to 2 feet per year, but after that it does not grow so fiSt. Cupressus lawsoniana. — In this country the largest are 70 feet or so, grows 15 inches to 18 inches a year, and when lar^e has a brangh diameter of \2 feet to I§ feet. 84 THE GAKDEN. [August 18, 1!06. Abies DordmaDDiana. — Here large specimenB are from 80 feet to 90 feet, grows 18 inoheB a year, and has a branch diameter of 20 feet or so. Abies Douglasii glauca — In this country it has reached 100 feet, grows about 18 inches a year, and should be allowed a space of 25 feet. Thuj* aurea. — The plant grown under the above name in eanlens is the same as Biota orientalis aurea. It forms a dense globular bash at its beat when from 3 feet tn 5 feet high, grows 1 inch or 2 inches in a year. Gjlden Yew (Taxus baocata aurea). — Its rate of growth is slow, and it needs many jears to attain a height of 8 feet with a corre- sponding diameter. Chinese Arbor Vilae (Biota orientalis) reaches a height of 20 feet and a diameter of half that, grows not more than 1 foot a year. Chinese Golden Juniper (Juniperus chinensia aurea) — A dense pyramidal shrub rarely more than 6 feet to 8 feet high. It grows slowly. Common Juniper (Juniperus communis) will reach a height of 12 feet to 1.5 feet, with a diameter of 6 feet to 8 feet, grows from 6 inches to 9 inches a year. Retinospora plumosa^^A small dense-growing tree, usually a pyramidal habit from 10 feet to 12 feet high, grows from 6 inches to 9 inches a year, and has a branch diameter of 7 feet to 8 feet. Retinospora plumoaa aurea — The remarks as tothetypicUR plumosa will equally apply to this. Retinospora squarrosa — An irregular specimen, seldom exceeding a height of 12 feet, with a spread of branches of 8 feet or so, grows from 6 inches to 9 inches per year. Retinospora pisifera. — A large tree in Japan, but rarely met with here over 25 feet high. When young it grows about 1 foot a year, spreads from 12 feet to 15 feet, or even more. Thujapsis borealis (Capressus nootkatensis). — A large tree which in this country has reached a height of 50 feet or more. When at its best grows from 1 foot to 18 inches a year, with a branch diameter of 12 feet to IS feet. Cutting Back Hedge (Auckuidomie). — At this seaBon of the year the long shoots only of the Beech hedge should be shorteoed back, but about next midsummer it may be cllDped. Destroying Bracken (Auchimiouiie). — To destroy Bracken it should oe cut down directly the fronds appear above ground, that is, while they are still succulent, and the bleeding from the broken portions will help to weaken the roots. If the fronds are prevented from developing, the plant'i will in time perish. Transplanting Rhododendrons (Aiichindoime).— You may safely transplant your Rhododendrons the latter part of October, as they will then have time to recover from the check of removal before the flowering season comes round. We should not advise giving them cow manure until they are thoroughly established in their new quarters. Planting Bank (j4«cfti7idoune).— Nothing is said as to the width of the bank or the height of the Cupressus hedge, so that we are considerably handicapped in advising how the bank should be treated. It might be planted with the White Broom (Cytisus albus), the Sulphur Broom (C. preBCox), the Golden Broom (C. scoparlus) and its variety Andreanus, as well as the double Furze, all ( f which will hold their own under decided'y unfavourable conditions. For such plants as these it will not be neces- sary to protect the bank from sweeping winds. ROSE GARDEN. MnLCHiNO Rosis (Broadgates). — If you can give a mulch of manure to a bed of Roses or any uiher plants, hoeing is not necessary, for the object of each is the same, i.e., to prevent the escape of moisture from the soil. A mulch has the additional advantage of enriching the soil when its properties are washed to the roots by the rain or by watering. Some people object to a mulch of manure on account of its unsightly appearance. It is a good plan to mulch in the spring, say, about the first week in April, and lightly fork the manure into the surface-soil. If the soil is forked over occasionally, in a few weeks the manure will have disappeared. Then, during the hot summer days the surface-soil may be kept loose by hoeing, thus preventing the loss of moisture by capillary attraction. With regard to covering your trellis, generally speaking the best time to plant hardy plants is in early autumn, October being as good a month as any. On the south side of your house you might grow Roses, Honeysuckle, Clematis, Wistaria, Pyrus japonica (red flowers, spring), and the summer- flowering Jasmine. Any or all of these, if you have room, would doubtless grow well. Rose Foliage Blighted {Sojourner). — The almost transparent appearance of the foliage is caused by the larvae of one of the saw-flies. This little insect is like a miniature slug, and is of the colour of the foliage, so that it easily escapes detection. The saw-fly does not appear until June, and then one is so engrossed with the blooms that the enemy escapes observation until the mischief is done. They are easily caught by brushing them off into a pail of water or into a box. Whenever there is the appearance of a skinning of the leaves just look beneath and catch the depredators. The worst of the foliage so injured should be cut oflf at once. This trouble was caused in no way by the manure water. The curling of the foliage you refer to is caused by drought. Give all Roses a good watering twice a week during the summer months. We should advise you to thin out the Foxgloves that sow themselves naturally. The increased space for their development will aid the flowering. Roses for Hedge {Doctor). — You do not say to what height you would desire the hedge to attain. If a tall hedge is wanted plant either of the following, or mix them together, planting about 3 feet apart : F^licit^ Perp^tue, Crimson Rambler, Aglaia. Helene, Flora, Lady Gay, Carmine Pillar, Una, and Wallflower ; but if you would be satisfied with a hedge some 6 feet to 7 feet high, then we should strongly recommend Griiss an Teplitz, Mme. Alfred Carriere, Long- worth Rambler. AimtJs Vibert, Conrad F. Meyer, Pink River, Mercedes, Francois Crousse, Blanc double de Courbet, and Climbing Belle Siebrecht. Any of these would be a good hedge in itself, but if preferred they would mingle well together. We may say that the whole of this second list are good autumnal bloomers, and for this much to be commended. It is necessary to well pre- pare the soil for such Roses, then they go away without check. Trench the ground two spits deep and manure liberally. Plant early, and prune but very little the first year, and even in the second and subsequent years little or no pruning will be needed. Rose Foliage Diseased {Ross-shire). — The purplish spots are not serious. Such foliage has usually been chilled by frost, but sometimes the black spot appears first in this way. If you spray the foliage with Bor- deaux mixture this would prevent any disease spreading further. The whitish substance upon the buds is a very bad form of mildew. Try Mo-Efjic, recently recom- mended in Tee Garden by Mr. Goodwin. Doubtless to paint these tainted buds with a solution made with Cal- vert's Carbolic Soap would check the disease ; but sometimes these remedies are worse than the disease. Rose Foliage Ccrling (Mrs. Sanders).— Tbia is evi- dently caused through some check to the growth, and in most cases that have come under our notice dryness at the root has been the cause. If you well soak your plants, and then mulch with well-rotted manure, we think you will find the curling disappear. No doubt the wire was affected by the Lysol. This remedy is rather a dangerous one. We think you would find a good syringing with carbolic soap to soon stay the ravages of mildew. The Mo-Eflic remedy is also much commended, as you will have seen in THE GARDEN recently, and we should recommend you to try it instead of Lysol. Rebudding Imported Roses {Amateur). — The dis- appointments caused by the very wretched varieties frequently sent out In these Continental consignments should make one consider whether it is not better to place one's orders with a reliable firm from whom good sorts may he expected. You would have done better liad you cut back the plants hard this spring if you knew the plants were of inferior quality, for then there would be now some vigorous young shoots to bud into. By all means rebud the plants now with good Hybrid Teas or Hybrid Perpetuals, but do not attempt to bud Tea Roses upon them, for they might fail. The shoots should be growing freely, but, if this is not so, give the plants a good soaking and bud a week later. YELLOW or Cream Companion to Dorothy Perkins {West Derby). — We wish we could name such a Rose, hut there is none. Gardenia flowers much earlier than Dorothy Perkins, even before Alberic Barbier, and It is only produced in twos and threes. It is a splendid Rose, but not one you want. Alister Stella Gray would be a more suitable Rose for your purpose, although not nearly so vigorous as Dorothy Perkins. It is almost a continuous bloomer from June to September. Sweetheart and Manda's Triumph are two pretty Roses that would bloom about the same time as Dorothy Perkins. If it were not that your garden is exposed, we should recommend the old cream-coloured Celine Forestier. It is a lovely Rose, and does well in many gardens upon arches. There is another nice creamy yellow in Souvenir de Prince Charles d'Aren- berg, and it is a flue vigorous grower and almost haidy. KITCHEN GARDEN. Carrot Fly {H. Hadfield). —Yomx Carrots are attacked by the grubs of the Carrot fly (Psila rosae), a small fly not quite a quarter of an inch in length, and of a shining black or green colour. The females lay their eggs on the roots just below the surface of the soil. In dealing with this insect the great object should be to prevent the flies from laying their eggs. It seems that thin- ning Carrots is a practice which gives great opportunities to the flies for carrying out their purpose, and that the seed should be sown sparingly, so as to avoid thinning as much as possible. Spraying the seed-bed after sowing with paraffin emulsion, again after the seed has germinated, and once more after thinning, is a precaution which is much recommended. Sprink- ling the bed with sand or ashes soaked in paraffia oil or carbolic acid will to a great extent keep away the flies. After the crop has been removed trench the ground thoroughly, and do not plant Carrots again on it next year. Forcing Asparagus {E. S ). —Asparagus is one of the simplest vegetables to force in frames from November to April, providijg your plants are strong and you have sufficient warmth underneath to force the roots into growth. You will require only small quantities of manure. The roots of Asparagus when lifted and forced are useless afterwards. Mix freeh leaves with the manure, making the covering from 2 feet to 3 feet deep. If your frame is heated you could force the roots without manure or leaves by maintaining a temperature of 60° to 70" at the start and covering the glass at night with mats. Plants thus placed in the frame would be ready in four weeks, when more ventilation and less warmth, say, 50° to 60°, would suffice. When Che manure is placed in position make it as firm as possible. The plants can be lifted and placed over the manure and then covered with a few inches of soil. In cold weather the frames should be covered to maintain warmth. Forcing Seakalh {E. S.). — Seakale can be forced easily in beds. The plants must have matured their top growth. Unless this is done the crowns from which the Seakale is obtained are unable to expand. You ask. Can you force in October? We would prefer November for per- manent beds. By lifting and forcing roots inside the roots receive a check, which does not take place with those forced in their growing quarters. You would do well at this season to hasten growth by giving food in the shape of liquid manure or salt, well washing these down to the roots. Remove old yellow or exhausted leafage. The planta should, if possible, be quite free of old leaves by the end of October, and a body of fresh manure and fresh leaves be collected and placed in a heap for the purpose. Of course, you will use pots or pans for covering or boxes, and over these and between the plants place the heating material at least 3 feet to 4 feet in depth, and make it firm. At intervals place stakes to show the heat. If, when withdrawn, these show over 100° Fahr. , loosen with a fork ; if not hot enough, add some short, warm manure. You will be able to cut in six weeks from the time of covering if heat is maintained. Celery Fly {Reader).— The foliage of Celery sent is badly attacked by the Celery fly. It is a good plan to dust the foliage with fresh soot when the leaves are damp. If this is done several times in succession it prevents the fly increasing. Tobacco water syringed over the foliage is also good. These aids, however, do not entirely get rid of the pest, as the maggot encases itself between the leaf surfaces, and once there is secure against insecticides. The best remedy is to remove the worst foliage, burn it, and then go carefully over that left on the plants and squeeze between the finger and thumb. Give the plants plenty of water at the roots. Heat and drought help this pest to Increase. ^- ■ fa / 18/A, 1906. MAY-FLOWERING TULiFo GARDEN. -^^= No. 1814.— Vol. LXX. August 25, 1906. THE DAHLIA. A FEW years ago the popularity of the Dahlia, both as a garden and an exhibition flower, was so much I on the down grade that its culture was in danger of decay. The flowers were then mostly of the old florists' type — large, rounded, formal, and even had become regarded by the irreverent as "lumpy." It was a case needing drastic measures on the part of the flower fanciers. Happily, those drastic measures were taken in time. The introduction of that crude, yet real. Cactus variety Juarezi furnished the opportunity, and most readily Dahlia men seized upon it. Progenitor as this variety was of the now varied and beautiful Cactus section, its use as a breeder has been more than justified, for it is the Cactus Dahlia which has proved to be the salvation of the Dahlia race, not only to our gardens, but also to our exhibitions. Additional impetus was also given to renewed popularity by the introduction into Dahlia lore and competitions of the natural and most beautiful single sorts — Nature's own flowers — improved certainly by human agency, but still left single. By contrast now, arising out of the change effected in Dahlia culture and production consequent on these new sections, we see no longer decadence or senility, but extreme vigour and intense vitality. Now, not only are Dahlias grown in every garden or exhibited at every late summer and autumn exhibition, but two special metropolitan societies exist for the promotion of Dahlia interests, and whether it be the National Society holding its great symposium at the Crystal Palace on September 6 and 7, or the London Union its great display in the Kegent's Park Botanic Gardens a little later, in both cases and with the most affectionate rivalry will be seen Dahlias as they are to-day in all their glory, variety, and beauty, presenting as flowers of easy culture in all gardens marvellous floral evidences of what Nature and human intel- lect combined can create out of that simple original species, Dahlia variabilis. Strong as what is commonly known as the " trade " is represented at these exhibitions, most happily the amateur grower looms largely also. This greatly prized section of the great community of gardeners seems to flnd in the Dahlia flowers much to their fancy. They take deep interest in their cul- ture and in all those points which constitute exhibition properties. Practically the amateur is the trader's best customer, and in his devotion to the Dahlia societies, exhibitions and growers find prosperity. Dahlias are for ordinary competition pur- poses divided into four sections. There is first and oldest, the large, rounded, and almost mathematically formed shows and fancies. These differ only in colouring or marking. They are now produced on sturdy plants of moderate height, generally have stiff stems, and, for those who admire them, give excel- lent decorative effects. They are, however, only in moderate favour, and find most support with the older florists. Quite miniature reproductions of the " shows " are the equally stiff, solid, rotund Pompons, and if it be possible without infringing on good taste to admire a double flower, then do these really pretty Pompons evoke warm admiration without stint. Borne on plants of sturdy growth, ranging from 3 feet to 3J feet in height, with very stiff stems, the flowers most abundant, standing well above the foliage, these small double Dahlias rank as the most effective garden plants furnished of the family. The form of flower is of the most perfect, the colouring and markings singularly varied and even refined, and offer for cutting purposes material of the most desirable description. But undoubtedly the popular section, literally the people's autumn flower, is the Cactus Dahlia. During the quarter of a century that has elapsed since Juarezi was introduced, development in this section has been marvellous. The flowers produce seed freely, and also readily admit of intercross- ing, hence seedlings carrying flowers not only of strangely varied and beautiful colours, but of the quaintest and most refined form, have been produced and named literally by hun- dreds. Varied, advanced, and beautiful as these varieties are — indeed, seeming to be incapable of further development — yet new varieties come abundantly every year, and will doubtless do so for a long time. Remarkable in form and beauty as Cactus Dahlia flowers are, too many of the varieties fail as garden decorative plants to give good floral effects. Not all varieties also are reli- able growers, hence it is wise for amateurs before purchasing new ones when seen at exhibitions to wait and learn something as to robustness or otherwise, and not least as to floral habits, whether forming good garden decorative plants or not. It is now both greatly hoped and urged that raisers will devote themselves less to securing varieties having specially attractive exhibition blooms, and more to producing plants which shall for garden purposes give every satisfaction. Not all amateurs are exhibitors, but numbers of flower lovers do like to have Cactus Dahlias in plenty, not only to furnish flowers for cutting, but also to give good effects in their gardens. The so - called Pompon section, having smaller yet perfect Cactus-like flowers, is generally of good growth, and merits wide culture for garden purposes. We cannot be too thankful for the coming of the Cactus Dahlia. Single Dahlias come so freely from seed that it seems hardly needful to obtain named varieties, unless specially coloured or marked flowers are desired. While the flowers are so light and graceful they attract insects too freely, and thus encourage free fertilisation and too rapid falling of the petals. But the flowers are most charming to cut, when half expanded, early in the morning, and set up in water for room decoration. All seed-pods should be rigidly gathered as soon as the flowers fall, except when a few seeds of any particular variety may be desired. Seeds sown in shallow pans and in gentle warmth during March give plenty of strong plants to be put out during May, and those in good soil with ample watering, mulching, staking, and thinning will give a wealth of flowers all the summer. There are, beyond those recognised florists' or exhibition sections. Anemone, Pasony, decorative so - called, bedding, and other forms, all more or less pleasing, and generally giving bloom in great abundance and variety. Words in Season. Just now Dahlias are nearing the height of their growth and beauty. But, all the same, most plants need thinning, for all tend to density of growth, and it is needful to cut out many of the inner shoots or small branches to admit light and air to the remainder. Occasional thinning is needed until the last. Leading branches should be tied out to stakes or Bamboo rods, not too rigidly, but to both / 86 THE GARDEN. [August 25, 1906. keep the plants open and sustain the brittle branches should wind-storms or rains prevail. Where specially fine flowers for exhibition are needed one-third of the flower-buds should be pinched out, a practice termed "disbudding"; that causes the preserved blooms to come all the finer ; also it is well to give some slight shading to the expanding flowers on hot days to preserve their natural colours in all their beauty. Generally an abundant watering, such as a pailful to each plant, should be given in hot weather twice a week, the soil being made to form a basin round the stem. A mulch or coat of half decayed animal manure added helps to retain moisture and promotes root action. An occasional gentle spraying or syringing over the plants in the evening is acceptable. Earwigs and woodlice are the chief insect pests, and these must be trapped by inverting on the tops of the stakes small pots, each containing a piece of moss to form shelter for the insects. These pots may well be examined daily. Dahlias need deep worked well manured soil if tbey are to carry fine blooms. The soil for them should be trenched 2 feet deep during the winter, and have plenty of good manure added in the process. If plants are to be in beds or blocks they should be planted fully 4 feet apart. Nothing in any case is gained by crowding the plants. When frosts destroy the plants, the tops should be at once cut down to within 6 inches of the ground and removed, and the roots carefully lifted with a strong fork so as not to break them, have the loose soil shaken off, and then laid over on the stems. That better facilitates drying and draining of any moisture that may have accumulated in the hollow stems. Trifles of this kind are, after all, important to the amateur, whose means of safely wintering roots may not be over convenient. When well dried, and any other soil shaken out, the roots may be placed close together on the floor of a dry cellar or be packed in shallow boxes with fine dry soil or ashes about them, for the winter. Early in the spring, if these roots be placed on a soil bed in a light warm greenhouse or frame, have fine soil placed among them, and be well watered, growths soon appear, and these, when 3 inches in height, cut oflF and inserted in sandy soil in pots and stood in heat, quickly root. It is in that way that hundreds and thousands of young plants are raised by traders and put into commerce yearly. A. Dean. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. August ■. 8. — Royal Horticultural Societj's Exhibition and Meeting. August 29 —Preston (three days) and Bath (two days) Horticultural Shows. August 30 — Sandy and Ellesmere Horticultural Showa. September 1 — French Horticultural Society's Meeting. September 4 — National Amateur Gardeners' Association Meeting. September 5. — Glasgow and Weat of Scotland Horticultural Show (two days). September 6. — National Dahlia Society's Show (two days), Paisley Horticultural Show (two days). September 8.— Eddleston Horticultural Show. September 11— Royal Horticultural Societj'a Exhibition and Meeting. September 12 — Royal Caledonian Sooiety'a Show (two days). THE EDITOR'S TABLE. Gladioli. We have received several spikes of Gladioli from Mr. W. C. Bull, Ruthlin, Ramegate. They are not only remarkable for their atrength and the number of flowers on the spike, but for beauty of colour. Velutina — This is a moat delightful aort. The flower is not large, but a very pretty shape, shaded with salmon roee with a white line down each of the segments. In the throat there is a suffusion of deep crimson. Cynthia is one of the most beautiful things we have ever aeen among Gladioli. The flower is enormous and not coarse ; the segments pure white except for a auepicion of pink. The lower half of the segments is sulphur yellow, and right in the centre of the Sower there are some stripes of maroon. There are no less than fourteen open flowers and buds on the apike. Nautila — Thia ia a very diatioct flower, white with dashes of light rose-purple at the edges of the segments. The lower half of the centre segment is sulphur margined with the same roae-purple colour. Right at the base there are crimaon atripFB. RoUo. — This ia a delightful flower. The outer segments arebrilliant rose shaded with vermilion. The centre segments are wholly vermilion, with creamy white and crimson on the lower segments. A bed of this in the garden must be a brilliant autumn picture. Ware's CLnsTBR Tomato. Mr. Hodgkinson kindly sends a boxful of this excellent Tomato, which ia exceptionally free, firm, and of excellent flavour. NOTES OF THE WEEK. Royal Horticultural Society.— The next fruit and flower show of the Royal Horticultural Society will be held on Tuesday, the 28th inst., in the societj'a hall, Vincent Square, Weatminater, 1—6 p m. A lecture on "Meteorology in its Relation to Horticulture," illustrated by lantern slides, will be given by Mr. R H. Curlia, F.R.Met.Soc, at three o'clock. Chatswopth Gardens. — Mr. Frank Jennings, for aome years foreman to Mr. Bennett at Lord Burton's beautiful gardens at Rangemore, baa been appointed to succeed the late Mr. Cheater aa head gardener to Hia Grace the Duke of Devonshire at Chatsworth. We congratulate Mr. Jennings on his being selected from among so many excellent candidates, and wish him every poaaible success in the discharge of the responsible and important duties. From the training and excellent practical experience he has gained, in the first place under his father, Mr. John Jennings, bead gardener to Mr. Leopold de Rothschild at Asoott, Leighton Buzzird, and afterwards at Weat Dean Park, Chichester, Worth Park, Crawley, Tring Park (Lord Roth- schild's famoua girden), and for the last five years at Rangemore, we have confidence he will prove by his work that the right man has been selected for the right place. The Botanic Gardens, Edg'bas- ton, Birmingrham. — These are always interesting, but just nuw they are particularly attractive, though the season has been a very trying one for outdoor plants. The new Roae garden ia an important feature, and the plants are becoming well established. Such varieties aa Captain Haywood, Clio, Ciroline Testout, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Lady Battersea, Frau Karl Druecbki, and Killarney have flowered freely, and are evidently quite at home. Climbera and ramblera on the pillars around the rosery consti- tute, with the hedge of Sweet Briar, a charming finish to ihia welcome addition. In the numerous flower- beda throughout other parte of the guden Carnations are in excellent condition, healthy, and promising a long display of fine blooms, representing the beat and moat effective varieties. Several excellent arrangemente of mixed plants are notable, one comprising Lobelia cardinalis and Calceolaria amplexicaulis being especially admired, while the old useful bright scarlet Begonia worthiana, associated with the varie- gated Dictylis glomerata, ia equally pleasing. Fuchsias, Ivy Pelargoniums, Verbenas, and Begonia semperflorena are employed with good effect. A series of beds upon a slope below the terrace also have a bright and telling appearance when seen from the walks or lawn near the bandstand. The beautiful Nettlefold rookery abounds in interesting plants, and would need a long chapter to do it justice. The results of several important and well-judged alterations in the grounds are now aeen to the beat advantage. Some delightfully picturesque vietas have been opened, the Rhododendron garden is greatly improved, and in all directions it is evident Mr. T. Humphreys haa given most careful thought to hia work. The occupanta of the glass houses are all in excellent condition, and the floral display in the corridor and conservatory attracts many visitors. It ia satisfactory to see that the character of this fine old garden is being ably maintained. A few beautiful May-flowering Tulips. — Tulips Fairy Queen, gesneriana lutea, Glare of the Garden, ixioides, Leghorn Bonnet, Orange Globe, Pompadour, The Fawn (lovely), Didieri alba (like a Niphetoa Rose), La Merveille, and Sunset. In forming a collection do not pass thia lot over; they are all really choice. — Fancebr. Value of small-fruited Tomatoes. Mr. E jgar Hodgkinaon of Clapham aends photo- graphs of small-fruited Tomatoes with the following note : '* I send you a photograph of the Tomatoes in my greenhouse, and I ahould like to eay a word in favour of these small Plum- sized varieties I find them much easier to grow than the larger aorta, espicially in my small houce, where a mixed collection of plants ia grown. They set well and carry a very heavy crop, some thirty-five to forty Tomatoes on a single truss. The fruit ripens quickly and rarely splits. The flavour is delicious, and ia generally very highly appreciated. The variety shown in the photo- graph, and on which my remarka are baaed, is Ware's Cluster, but I auppose that there are other sorts equally suitable." Potato trials in Scotland.— A party of about fifty recently attended the inspection of the reaults of a Potato-growing and manuring test, which has been made at Inveresk by the Edinburgh and Eist of Scotland College of Agriculture. The tests on that day were prin- cipally of early varieties, and the examination was conducted under the direction of Mr. William Bruce, senior lecturer to the college. Other trial plots, but on a smaller acale, are in progress in Fifeshire and Forfar. The crop was rather a light one, and the yield varied largely. The most prolific variety was Conquest, which yielded at the rate of 8 tons 4cwt. ; and the yields of the others tested were : Epicure, 7 tona 8cwt. ; Ninetyfold and Sharpe's Expresa, 6 tons 4cwt. ; Midlothian Eirly, 6 tons ; Duke of York, 5 tons 12owt. ; Webber's Eirly, 5 tons 4owt. ; Puritan, 5 tone ; Southern Queen, 5 tons ; Dalmeny Eirly, 4 tons 4cwt. ; Jeanie Deans, 4 tona ; Recorder, 4 tons ; and Sir John Llewelyn, 3 tons 6owt. The plota which had been treated with artificial manurea were more promising than those which had been only supplied with farmyard manure. London Dalilia Union.— The annual show of the above society will be held on Sep- tember 18 and 19 in the gardens of the Royal Botanic Society, Regent's Park. The exhibition will be held in the large conaervacory and long corridor. An additional attraction will be the entire range of greenhouses and hot-houses con- taining the famous Water Lily, Bananas, Sugar, Tea, Coffee, and other economic plants. Moreover AUGUST 25, 190fi. THE GARDEN. 87 the whole of the gardens will be open to all visitors to the Dihlia show. The eohedule and all particulars can be procured from the secre- tary, Miss Dsan, 18, Ranelagh Road, Ealing, W. Sweet Pea hedges. — Aq excellent competition for the best hedges of Sweet Peas in gardens has just been concluded by the award- ing of prizes by the judges appointed by the Mearns Horticultural Society, whose head- quarters are at Laurencekirk. This class is one which might well be taken up by the many societies throughout the country which give prizes for cottage gardens, window boxes, and flower-beds. At Laurencekirk the prizes brought out some excellently-grown Sweet Peas, and the prizes were awarded to the following : First, Mr. J. Robson ; second, Mr. G. Moir ; third, Mr. A. Martin. Another good class was that for a bed of Mignonette, and the following were awarded prizes in this class : First, Mr. W. Christie ; second, Mr. J. Durie ; third, Mr. J. Robson . A note on Snapdragons.— In The Garden of the 28 th ult. I see some notes on Snapdragons, and send you herewith two small photographs. Many were 5 feet 6 inches high, and the bloom-spikes 12 inches to 18 inches long. The seed was sown in pans last July, the seedlings pricked off into a cold frame, hardened off early, and planted out in April. I have cut off the flowers now, as they were get- ting untidy, with 12 inches to 18 inches of seed - pods on them, and with 6 inches to 8 inches of bloom above them. They are now breaking well from the main stem, and will soon, I expect, be a blaze of colour again. We get such cold cutting winds here that one cannot depend on these things standing the winter, but they are eo showy that I think them worth taking some trouble over, and am sowing another lot now.— E. B. Hand- ley, Edghaston. Xeponema Moopel.— This comparatively old but un- common plant was recently in flower in the T range at Kew. Though belonging to the natural order Liliacea), it has the general habit of an Iris, with a thick rootstock and a tuft of sheathing sword - shaped leaves, from the centre of which the flower-spike is pushed up. This, which well overtops the foliage, attains a height of 18 inches to 2 feet, the inflorescence being restricted to the upper portion of the spike, which stands almost at right angles to the main portion of the stem, and thus, as it were, forms a separate raceme. The flowers, which are thickly crowded along this raceme, all point upwards, thus giving a most singular appearance to a speci- men when in bloom. Individually the flowers are tubular in shape, about 1 inch long, and brilliant crimson in colour, while the stamens and style protrude fully half an inch beyond the tube, and, on account of their crowded position, they form a notable feature of the inflorescence. From the way in which the flowers are arranged on one side of the stem, and their crowded filaments, the entire inflorescence suggests an enlarged tooth-brush. This Xeronema is a nati ve of New Caledonia, and was, I believe, first introduced by Mr. John Gould Veitch, but at no time has it been a common plant. It was given a first-class certificate by the Royal Horticultural Society on June 4, 1878 —H. P. THE FRUIT GARDEN. THE AMATEUE'S VINERY. THE vinery of the export Grape grower and that of the amateur are neces- sarily widely different. The former is expected to grow Grapes to perfec- tion, and to have them ripe and in perfect condition for dessert all the year round. So he ought, because in his case no expense has been spared in the building of the vinery, in forming expensive borders, and in providing boilers and ample heat power, &c., as well as in the employment of highly-trained men to look after them. The amateur's vinery is a different thing. It may be erected against the wall of a dwelling, a stable, or any other available building which offers a warm aspect, such as south, south-east, or south-west. Or it may be built in the open garden without a wall at all by adopting the span-roof principle of building. The building may be as inexpensive a'^ you like, so long as it has a (3 feet) over an area twice the size of the house to be erected, and liberally manured with well- decayed farmyard manure, and a good portion of lime added at the time of trenching. I will strengthen this statement by citing cases in point. Take the two old Royal Vines, the one at Hampton Court and the one at Cumberland Lodge. The former has produced from 1,000 to 1,200 bunches of Grapes for nearly a hundred years (it was planted in the year 1768), and, as far as is known, no special border was ever made for it, and even if there had been, the roots have long Eince migrated into the soil of the adjacent garden. The other Vine is nearly as old, and is much larger and stronger, and has produced on an average for many years upwards of 2,000 bunches. Neither bunches nor berries are very large. What of that ; they always finish off a beautiful colour, and the richness of their flavour cannot be excelled, if equalled, by any Grape grown under more scientific culture. The roots of these old Vines have no prepared borders to run in, and no man knows how far their roots have penetrated to the surrounding soil. Neither have they had any manure or BLACK HAMBORGH AND OTHER VINES IN ERUIT. glass roof, ends, and front, and ample means of ventilation. No boilers, no pipes, no expensive borders, no hired labour needed. The owner will find a delightful pastime in the little work needed. The amateur's Grapes may not carry so dense a bloom, or be so captivating to look at as the professional's, but there is no reason why they should not be equally as sweet and richly flavoured, and as Grapes are grown to eat the amateur after all does not suffer any grievous loss. The growing of the Grape Vine by amateurs, or by working men as a hobby, will never be engaged in to the extent it ought to be until the fallacy of the expense, technicality, and the mystery of management it is supposed to involve is exploded and got rid of. This I should like to help to do. In the first place, expensively- prepared borders are not necessary. Excellent Grapes may be grown in ordinary garden soil, provided it is well drained, deeply trenched water applied to the roots to speak of during this time, and while they were in my charge no artificial heat was given them at any time, and yet the Grapes ripened splendidly from the middle to the end of September, and supplied fruit of good quality in abundance from this time to close on Christmas. Both of these are the Black Hamburgh varieties. The question of the incessant daily syringings, waterings, and ventilation to be found in most instructions given concerning the growth of the Vine are, I think, unnecessarily alarming and discouraging to many would-be amateurs, and are in a great measure responsible for the diffidence generally felt by the public in indulging in this, one of the pleasantest of garden hobbies. An interesting example of an amateur's vinery came under my notice in Lincolnshire a short time since. It was only a small one, and filled by a Black Hamburgh Vine, which was bearing an 88 THE GARDEN. [August 25, 1906. excellent crop of good-sized bunches and berries of fair size, and promising to colour and ripen perfectly. Nobody knew where the roots of this Vine were. There were no pipes or boilers, and the ventilation, I was assured, gave no trouble, as they never altered the ventilators, winter or summer, giving the same quantity of air at night as in the day-time, only reducing it in very windy weather, or in extra cold weather in spring. Although never syringed, the Vine was clean, perfectly healthy, and maturing a crop that no gardener need to have been ashamed of. Such a bouse may be used for a variety of purposes during the year without injuring the Vines. Owen Thomas. THE ROSE GARDEN. PROPAGATING NEW EOSES. IN reply to several questions ou this point we answer as follows : When it is desired to increase one's stock of new Roses provision should be made for this early in the spring by planting standard or half-standard Briars, also seedling and rooted Briar cuttings. Having such a provision of stocks the buds can be inserted in July and August. It is usual now for the trade growers to distribute their novelties in May or .June, and usually the plants sent out will yield from six to ten buds each ; but if there is accommodation for the plants in the greenhouse, they will, by potting them into 8-inch pots, and encouraging new A STANDARD OF ROSB LA FRANCE IN THE GARDEN OF COUNT MACNY DE TALVANDE, AT TBRRICK, ELLESBOROUGH, TRIN6. growth, yield from thirty to forty buds each if BO many are required. A somewhat elose and moist atmosphere is requisite to obtain this second growth early enough to be of use for buds. If the small Briars " run " well, that is, the sap is moving freely, one could bud them at once with such new Roses that you have, insert- ing the buds in the collar or stem, just beneath the branches. After budding plunge the pots in coal ashes outdoors, and see that the stocks do not become dry at the roots. These budded Briars which are in pots will remain outdoors until November. They are then brought into the greenhouse, and in December the whole of the top is cut off down to the inserted buds. Artificial heat will soon start the eyes or buds into growth, and when they are about 12 inches high the stocks should be repotted into 5-inoh pots. We should prefer to pot the Briars in the first place into oinch pots, as by this means we obtain a healthier plant for bud- ding. Many of our market growers bud thousands of Roses in pots during the summer months, and it is a most economical way of propagating, for we avoid the risks that attend grafting during the dull months of the year. The after treat- ment of these budded Briars when they have started to grow would be similar to that of ordi- nary pot Roses, affording them a temperature of about 56" to 60°, and giving them ample room for development. If the object be simply to increase the new Roses for one's own pleasure, bud outdoors ; but if there are no Briar stocks, bud them upon rooted cuttings of Crimson Ram- bler or any other free-growing Rose that one happens to have cuttings of. The Penzance Briars makesplendid stocks, and some of them being so vigorous, they would make fine standards in about three years. We think, how- ever, there is no stock to surpass the ordinary Briar for new Roses, and standards or half- standards yield the best blooms. Should one possess a pro- pagating frame in the greenhouse, some cuttings inserted at once would soon strike and make plants by autumn fit for planting out next May. If wood is scarce a single eye with leaf attached will grow if stuck around a .3-inch pot in a compost of very sandy soil. The leaves of such cut- tings need sprinkling three or four times a day, and should be shaded with sheets of newspaper from bright sun. When rooted pot into 2^-inch pots, and gradually pot on as the young plants need it. There is yet another plan one could adopt for in- creasing the stock of new Roses, and that is to bud them upon some old inferior sorts, such as John Hopper or Jules Margottin. Select three or four nice young growths produced this season and insert the buds as near their base as you can. Some of the other growths may be removed at once, and in February next cut away all growth excepting those containing the buds, and shorten these back to the inserted buds. It is possible to have strong plants of a good novelty if this plan be adopted. The more youthful the stock plants are the better will be the results, especially if the soil has recently been well cultivated by trenching and manuring. Grower. LA FRANCE ROSE AS A STANDARD. The trcpical weather this seaion has suited La France. It is, perhaps, ntver seen to better advantage than when grown as a standard, where its deliciously fragrant fi jwers hang in such glorious profusion. If asked to name one variety for a standard I think my choice would fall upon this. It is an ideal variety ; for where is there a more abundant blossoming Rose of equal quality or one so sweet ? Of course, like every other Rose, it has ifs moods and fancies. For instance, if severely pruned and heavily manured the blooms come quite ball shape, but let the position be well prepared for a well-rooted, thrifty standard, and be very sparing with the knife or pruning shears, and there will be a wealth of perfectly shaped blossoms of the daintiest colour imaginable. I am specially partial to bone- dust as a steady, lasting manure for La France, and if good loam be given as the staple, with some well-decayed hot-bed manure mixed with it, little in the way of stimulant will be required for some considerable time after, not even liquid manure in summer. Instead of standard Roses declining in popularity, I think the tendency is that they will increase in favour with the coming of eo many Roses of the character of La France. For instance, there is the white sport of La France named Augustine Guinoisseau, always good ; then Caroline Testout, second only to La France. I could name several more, Mme. Abel Chatenay, Konigin Carola, Viscountess Folkestone, Gruss an Teplitz, &c. , which only need to be planted to at once receive the admiration that rightly belongs to them. p. ROSE FRAU KARL DRUSCHKL In January of this year I planted in the border of a cold greenhouse a Frau Karl Druschki Rose, which, after giving between twenty and thirty beautiful blooms in the latter part of May, has been making fine sturdy growth, and at the top- most points measures 9 feet 6 inches from the root. Such a growth as this from a Roee reputed to be a dwarf was somwhat perplexing in a house, and I had to bend the shoots so as to reach the overhead wires. The points are now soaring away — beautifully healthy — towards the ridge. I am sure that no Rose grower should be without this variety. The sturdy habit, fine foliage, and charm of its beautiful white flowers make it in every way a magnificent acquisition. 105, Htiiley Road, llford. J. H. Jewell. Your correspondent, Mr. Arthur Goodwin, in- vites readers of The Garden to give their experiences of that grand Rose Frau Karl Druschki. My own experience of this Rose is as follows : In October last I purchased a plant of the above with some others, and on arrival they were duly potted in 7J-inoh pots and plunged in ashes outside. At the beginning of the present year they were pruned and placed in a cold frame, and early in February were removed to the greenhouse, where just sufficient fire-heat was maintained to circulate the air and keep out frost. In April and the beginning of May it flowered very well, carrying altogether twenty-one blooms. When these were over it was placed outside for a rest, still in the pot, and it at once started making rapid growth. At the present time it is carrying three shoots 7 feet long and four others varying from 2 feet to 5 feet. August 25, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 89 aad looks like goiog 2 feet or 3 feet more. Per- il ipa the source of supply had something to do with this climbing habit. I very much appreciate Mr. Goodwin's notes, which I read with interest as they appear, and as an old reader of The Garden since the early seventies, and an old Rose grower from 1860, I am very much inter- ested in Rosea generally. I should like to ask Mr. Goodwin his opinion of Rose J. B. Clark ? Now, with me it is useless under glass, so I have planted it out, although Mr. Goodwin stated in an earlier issue of The Gaeden it was a trump card. Hugh Dickson with me is far better both in growth and flower, shoots on the latter variety attaining a length of 6 feet. I am inclined to think it has some Tea blood in it, for the foliage has the appearance and the bloom the perfume of the Hybrid Teas. How- ever, I have a strong bud on J. B. Clark, planted in the open, and if agreeable will give my experience of it later. Where was it, at the National Rose Society's Show, Regent's Park ? Now, Mr. Goodwin, favour us. Edward F Kemp. (J, Avenue Road, Clapton. EOSE AUGUSTINE GUINOISSEAU. The accompanying illustration shows a bed of this beautiful Hybrid Tea Rose flowering in the American Garden at Ksw. It is an excellent variety for garden decoration, flowering from early summer until late autumn. Only moderate pruning is necessary. The flowers are white, tinged with pink, deepening slightly towards the centre. The flowers are very fragrant. Plants on their own roots grow and flower freely. It was sent out by Guinoisseau in 1889, and described as a white sport from La France. There are, no doubt, certain affinities between it and La France, but there seems to me to be some doubt about its being a sport. A more probable suggestion is that La France was the seed- bearing parent crossed with some other variety. A coloured plate of it appeared in Thb Gardbk for July 24, 1897. 0. JOTTINGS ABOUT ROSES. Souvenir db Gabriblle Drevet. — I have praised this fine Rose before in The Garden, but it happens to have been especially beautiful this season. It belongs to the Tea-scented section. The plant is very upright in growth, with stout thorny wood and dark shiny foliage, and for a Tea Rose is fairly hardy. The long pointed buds are produced singly on fine sti£F stems, and rather resemble those of Mme. de Watteville, while being perfectly distinct in shape. They are salmony white, edged with soft rose-pink, opening into full flowers which are tinted with coppery rose and salmon, and of most delicious fragrance. The petals, which are stiff and of good substance, have a reflexing habit, and are not very sensitive to wet. Sylph has something in common with Souvenir de Gabrielle Drevet, but whereas the latter is a good opener, the former is so indifferent in this respect that I have been obliged to discard it. CoMTBSSE DU Catla — A China Rose of wonderful colouring, sent out by Guillot in 1903. Though a stronger grower than Aurore, it is of much the same habit, and the flowers are similar in shape and appearance. The plant is of rather spreading habit, with reddish spindly wood, well set with thorns, and, like many of these new Chinas, does not possess a constitution strong enough to enable it to endure an English winter without careful protection. The flowers are small, loose, semi-double, and fragrant; in colour a rich blending of apricot, carmine, and bright pink. The orange base to the flower gives it a wonderful effect, but the flower is not so brilliant as Souvenir de J. B Guillot. My own im- pression about many of these so-called Chinas is that in a great number of oases they are almost pare Teas, and many of them seem to possees even less constitution than the average Tea A GRODl" OF ROSE AUGtlSTlNB GniNOISSBAU IN THB ROYAL GARDENS, KBW. Rose. Comtesse du Cayla is quite one of the most floriferous Roses I have met with, blooming uninterruptedly till the frosts. The young foliage is richly tinted with purple, and this makes a pleasing contrast to the colour splendour of the flowers. Jeannb Phillipb. — This is, without question, one of the finest decorative Tea Roses in cultiva- tion in English gardens, and my half-dozen plants of it have attracted the attention of every rosarian friend who has seen my collection this summer, including such a good judge as Mr. H. i E. Molyneux. Somehow or other this variety appears to have been missed by growers in this country, and the only English list I can find it in is that of Messrs. D. Prior and Son of Colchester. Jeanne Phillipe was sent out by Godard in 1899. It is a splendid grower, with magnificent large dark green polished leaves tinted with purple. The young growth is a remarkably rich dark purple, and the plants are very bushy and upright. The bods are long, pointed, and held erect on strong stalks ; they are usually solitary, but at times produced in clusters of three. The colour is a superb deep orange buff, with splashes of dull red on the outer petals. The flowers are neither full nor very lasting, but are of fine effect on the plant. The petals are, however, of large size, in this respect resembling those of Mme. Berkeley. This is a Rose that, without the slightest hesitation, I do most thoroughly recommend, and I feel sure that those who plant it will be delighted with its superb colouring and growth. Arthur R. Goodwin. THE FLOWER GARDEN. f — 1~~^ OLD-FASHIONED PKIMROSES AND HARDY PRIMULAS. "> HESE old-world flowers make an ex- cellent amateur's " hobby," they respond to treatment so well, and are by no means diificult to grow. The varieties usually met with in gardens are the double mauve and double white, and more occasionally the double yellow. These are about the most easily grown of the whole group of doubles, but the deeper- coloured varieties do not seem very exacting in their demands. A shady border where the summer Bun only shines for a few hours each day, yearly division of roots after the flowering is over, watering in hot weather, and constant weeding, seem their principal requirements. A light sandy soil well enriched with good leaf-mould, wood ashes, and soot suit them well, and a top-dressing of leaf-mould in early spring when the buds are forming, gives them a push on just as they need encouragement. The finest of the double varieties is certainly Mme. Pompadour, with crimson velvet blooms, a beautiful flower, quite free from any shade of magenta. Alfred du Moulins, deep violet, is very effective in mass, and very free flowering. French Grey is another beauty, and Bergundy, Purple Paddy, and Red Paddy, all shades of claret red, are well worth growing. Among the yellows the Eirly Sulphur will begin to flower in Novem- ber, and continue throughout the winter. The flowers are short stalked and pale in colour. Cloth of Gold is a lovely deep yellow, and Lite Yellow is a very satisfactory grower, the flowers rather paler than those of Cloth of Gold. There is said to be a fourth yellow smaller than these. Salmon pink and pink doubles are also to be had, probably many others, so there is a good choice of colour. As none of the doubles seed, they can only be increased by division, and when dividing the roots in summer it is well to remember that bits of the old rootstock, which are best cut off wben making new plants, will frequently send out young shoots if carefully planted and marked with sticks. With good varieties this is worth trying. The double white and mauve will stand moving again in autumn into sunny beds for spring blooming, but the darker colours are best always in shade. The single varieties are very pretty, and often very early flowering. Belvidere flowers all the winter, but is not a good coloured sort. Early Pink, Miss Massey, and Cecil Rhodes are all worth growing. Quaintly pretty, too, are the Jacks in Green, with their curiously developed calices. Pantaloon is a large dark variety ; ■Jack in the Green a lovely red ; Jackanapes red, with an ornamental red and green calyx, and Pine White, a yellow variety, are all good kinds. The Hose in Hose are perhaps more curious than pretty, but there are many colours among these, though the flowers are never very large. The double Polyanthuses are worth growing, too, and seem very hardy and free flowering. Tortoise- shell is a handsome brown and yellow variety, Curiosity a curious mixture of red and yellow, Singuinea plena a rather dull red. There are several others, but rather expensive in price. Among the single varieties the old China or Sky Blue is a charming variety, and Garnett, a dark red, is beautiful. Blue Beauty is another worth growing, so is Black Knight, and many of the old gold-laced Polyanthus deserve to be rescued from oblivion, into which they have drifted, since Polyanthus and Primrose seed has been so easily obtainable, and a good show of bloom can be produced from one year old seedlings. 90 THE GARDEN. [August 25, 1906. The hardy PrimulaB are another delightful branch of this fanaily, and are very amenable to ordinary treatment. They are bo large a family that only a few can be mentioned. Primula nivalis or pubescens alba, and Primula caehmeriana are early flowering, and make a beautiful spring bed of mauve and white. Both are absolutely hardy, very free flowering, quick to increase, and will thrive with a move twice a year. After flowering they can be dug up, divided, and put in a shady border for the hot summer months, and in October will move again quite happily into a sunny border for spring blooming. Primula rosea is a lovely rose- coloured Primrose. It blooms so early that a handlight over the plants when in bud is a wise pre- caution, as frosts spoil the beau- tiful flowers, though the plant is hardy and increases fast. Primula viecosa and marginata will flourish in any herbaceous border. Primulas Kke rosea, japonica, Sieboldi cortusioides, capitata, mollis, Munroi, and sikkimensis prefer damp and shade, but all grow quite freely in a light well- enriched sandy soil, if they are watered freely. Capitata, with its autumnal flowers, is worth growing for its unusual flowering season, as well as for its really beautiful blooms. Certainly a collection of hardy Primulas is an unending joy to any enthusiastic gardener, whether amateur or professional. Wooler. E A CLEMATIS ANDERSON HENRYI. The accompanying illustration is a good example of the Lanuginosa group of the Clematis family, and it gives a good idea of the flori- ferous nature of the group and its usefulness for decorative pur- poses. The Lanuginosa varietieh form one of the mid-season groups of the five sets into which the majority of the garden Clematises can be placed, and are at their best during July and early August. In most instances the flowers are large and the growths strong, and the varieties are all well suited for conspicuous positions on walls, trellises, pergolas, and other places. When selecting a position for any of these Clematises, select one where a little shade can be afforded to the lower part of the stems, very bright sunshine burning on the lower parts of the branches often being attended with disastrous results. Good rich soil containing lime must be given, and an annual surfacing of well-rotted manure will be found beneficial. The pruning : propagation, saving all the disappointment and of the Lanuginosa varieties needs attention, the trouble connected with raising the species true . .... ... . .^j,^ few of this latter species produce an ofiTdet at all. In the case of the plants producing the rosettes on the flower-stems of S. Coty- ledon, is there any noticeable diminution of the basal rosettes, which in this kind appear so abundantly ? We notice with interest in the specimens before us that the pedicels or footstalks are quite green and full of vitality, hence we conclude that the ordinary functions of flowering were disturbed at a quite early period, and that Nature baa adopted this proliferous method whereby to perpetuate the species. As the case is not an isolated one, we quite agree with you that the local influence to which you refer is largely respon- sible for the occurrence. You might, as an experiment, remove eaily a large number of flower- buds from a flowering plume of S. longifolia to ascertain if this proliferous character is possible of artificial reproduction. You do not say whether you have had any similarinstance previously. — Ed.] CLEMATIS ANDEESON HENBTI. (From a photograph by Mist Wiltmott.) pushed, which only want taking ofi' and potting to make each an independent plant. As you will notice from the piece enclosed, the florets were not fertilised, incessant rain having prematurely washed away pollen and flowers. Thus the green stems not having exhausted their energy in the production of seed and the great continued amount of moisture having kept the sap well in circulation, I suppose the plant has given us these ready-made rosettes in lieu of seeds. If this same process could be induced artificially by timely cutting away all the florets, and if S. longifolia would lend itself to it, a capital and easy method would be available for producing true stock of this species by way of vegetative IXIAS AND SPARAXIS IN SCOTLAND. With reference lo recent corre- spondence in The Garden, I am able to inform you that Ixias and Sparaxis grow in Scotland in the open air. It may interest your readers to know that I have grown them for the past four years in a south border near the wall of my house on light, sandy soil, and they are in flower at present. y. B. M S RiCHABDSorJ. THE WHITE AUVERGNE LUNGWORT. (POLMONARIAARVBRNEKSE ALBA ) This is a good garden plant. It was picked up as a wilding by a hardy plant man of large experi- ence when on a botanising tour on the Contitant. It is one of the prettiest of a somewhat despised but useful class of plants. It is only about 6 inches high, and in a half- shady spot gives a number of heads of pure white flowers. In a border here it came into bloom early in March, and was still in flower in June. S AR^OTT. THE branches requiring to be cut back every Feb ruary to within six or eight eyes of the base of the previous year's wood. Other useful varieties of the same set are : Beauty of Worcester, Duchess of Teck, Excelsior, Fairy Queen, La France, and Marie Lefebvre. The colour of the flowers of Anderson Henryi is creamy white. M. L. AN INTERESTING DEVELOPMENT IN SAXIFRAGA COTYLEDON. Mr. E. Hbinrich, Planegg, near Munich (Bavaria), writes: "On several 'plumes' of S. Cotyledon an interesting monstrosity has formed, viz., from the axils of almost every bract upon the flower.stems innumerable small rosettes have from seed. A whole season would be saved the bargain." [The formation of rosettes on the inflorescences of the above plant is most interesting, and we do not remember any similar instance. Its equivalent occurs occasionally on other plants, and is usuallv traceable to local influences, as in VERBASCUMS. (Mulleins.) HE Verbascums or Mulleins are in their way among the more showy of garden plants, and as such deserve attention at the hands of the gar- dener. To say that this somewhat extensive genua is an important one would be perhaps ascribing to it a praiee not wholly merited. There are, however, certain species that demand more than ordinary atten- tion by reason of their boldness when well grown, and their adaptability for forming groups of an attractive or even an imposing character. T your case. Whether a similar condition could be Regarded generally these plants are better suited set up in the case of S. longifolia we are unable to woodland gardening or to those other parts of to say. As a rule, however, these and similar : the garden where bold effects or vistas may with freaks of Nature occur rather at rare intervals, j advantage be dealt with. The large shrubbery If your theory of the production of these rosettes , border, for example, frequently affords an excel- is correct, you might, knowing all the attendant j lent opening for such plants as these, and if kept circumstances, try and imitate them when i away from the radius of hungry tree roots and their flowering S. longifolia, for the progeny in this i requirements liberally catered for in other ways, a case would possess a much greater value, as sceneof great beauty and attractiveness will result. August 25, 1906. THE GARDEN. 91 One of the best ways of utilising these plants is to plant them upon or near the Bummic of a low retaining wall where this latter is in touch with grass or terrace walk. For ordinary walls, and those intended for plant growing in particular, the plants, while losing somewhat of their giant stature, are not unsuitable, but their use in such cases should be limited, and probably isolated examples will be best. For the most part, how- ever, circumstances in individual instances will prove the best guides. We have in mind a terrace garden with a low retaining wall to the north-west side, and below a great slope of Khododendrons of 18 feet, the slope extending in a northerly direction some 300 feet or more. We have treated the summit of the slope near the wall with some of theae giant Mulleins, and from every point of view, when the Rhododendrons were out of flower, the eflfact was very fine. In this particular garden — a hill-garden, by the way — there was ample scope for bold effects, and in the distant view such things claim attention at once. This will afford an idea for the free use of the plants under notice, and an excellent lesson is also conveyed by the illustration below. Of the boldness of the plants and their great flowering the picture will speak for itself. Sowing Seeds of Mulleins The whole of the Mulleins may be regarded ae biennials, mostly of strong and quick growth, requiring liberal room for leaf development Even those with certain pretensions to a perennial existence may be easily raised from seeds, and the seedlings, if liberally treated from the beginning, will provide the finest display in the end. For such bold kinds as V. olympicum, V. pannosum, and others akin, the seeds will be beet if sown in the open ground and early transplanted in informal groups to the required positions. In certain other instances, eg., the large shrubbery border, the seeds could be sown broadcast, but where this is done it should be borne in mind that early thinning is essential to success. Far better, perhaps, and in the end securing the best results, to sow a few seeds in the ordinary way in a box of light sandy soil, and pot off the strongest seedlings for a week or two prior to planting out, or the young seedlings may be transplanted for a time with a similar object in view. Seeds of any of the kinds may be sown at once, preferably in a cold frame, and avoiding too close a condition when the seedlings are appearing. For the larger growing kinds, as olympicum, phlomoides, &c., a space of 3 feet or 4 feet should be given to each plant, and it will depend upon the quality, depth, and richness of the soil in which these things are planted whether the plants attain their fullest development or not. A position I have not mentioned, and where these Mulleins may often be seen to advantage, is the summit of the boldest type of rockery. In such there is usually ample room for development, and the plant is seen in all its imposing grandeur. The following are among the more striking and ornamental of these plants : V. olympicum (see illustration). — One of the noblest of the family, with large rosettes of woolly leaves and giant pyramids of rich yellow flowers. No words can adequately convey the picturesque beauty of this fine plant, which attains 6 feet to 10 feet in height when well grown. F. pannosum is also a plant of noble aspect with giant spikes of yellow flowers. V. phlomoides is another of the giant Mulleins, also reaching a great height, the rich yellow Sowers continuing for a long season in great profusion. F. pyramidatum is another meritorious kind from Siberia, the huge rosettes of somewhat crisped leaves rendering it distinct. Its flowers are yellow, and the entire candelabra-like in- florescence very ornamental. V. Chaixi and F. phceniceum, with flowers varying from white to purple, are less noble in growth yet most useful in their way. The latter species is, with F. weidmannianum, an early-flowering kind, the flowers opening in May and June. These are a few of the many ornamental species of which this genus is composed. Quite a novelty among these plants is the good cross-bred kind named F. Gcdedonia, with bronzy buff flowers, exhibited by Messrs. Dobbie and Co. of Rothesay at the recent show at Holland House. We welcome the coming of this plant for its distinctive character. E. H. Jknkins. GROUP or VBKBASCUM3— CHIBFLT OF V. OLYMPICUM. (From 01 photograph by Miss Willmott.) 92 THE GARDEN. [August 25, 1906. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS, PRUNING THE PLUM. — The great thing to bear in miad ia pruning the shoots of the Plum is to avoid over- crowding them, otherwise the wood will ripen badly and fruit uneatis- factory. Those shoots and spurs for which there is not plenty of space should be cut out. The Plum bsars its fruit upon those short stubby shoots known as "spurs," and also upon youDg wood, which therefore should be trained in between the older branches where there is room. Instead of allowing the lateral shoots to grow unchecked until the winter, they should ba pinched back to about 6 inches long, cutting I hem to within a few buds of the base at the winter pruning. This will encourage the forma- tion of fruit spurs, which, however, will also form naturally. The accompanying illustration shows clearly how to treat a shoot in full growth. Reference to Illustration. — o, Continuation of branch growth ; p, side shoots marked for pinch- ing at third leaf when not required for training in to furnish tree with fruiting wood, and in winter to be shortened to one or two buds from main stem to form spurs ; q, short stubby shoots that need not be pinched ; r, spurs, short stubby SIMPLE HINTS. apart, the smaller ones about 1 inch. After having placed crooks over the hole at the base of the pot for drainage, and having covered this with rough turfy soil, fill to within about U inches of the rim with the previously prepared light sandy soil, making it fairly firm. Tnen upon it place the Freesia bulbs. Cover these with soil, leaving off half an inch below the rim, so as to allow of watering. When all the bulbs are potted place them in a cold frame, if there is one avail- able, if not, out of doors in a shady spot. They must be protected from heavy rains if these occur, otherwise the soil would soon get sodden. If the soil was moist when the bulbs were potted little water will be required for several weeks, until, in fact, the bulbs have begun to grow. Careful watering until the pots are filled with roots is most important, otherwise the soil will become sour and the foliage weak and sickly. If the bulbs are in the frame give full air all day, and leave some air on at night unless it is frosty. If the bulbs are out of doors they must be brought under cover before there is any danger of frost, say, by the end of September. They would, how- ever, be far better in the frame all the time. By allowing plenty of air when the weather is favourable, watering carefully, taking care that the soil does not get dry when the bulbs are well rooted, and water- ing with diluted liquid manure water when the buds begin to show, there should be a good show of bloom soon after Christ- mas. The Scarlet Linum (L. grandi- florum).^There is no cheerier annual in the garden than this brilliant Linum, which makes crimson shoots with the leaves close together about the clouds wherever the seed is sown. The illustration apex ; s, fruit produced on the preceding year's of it, very much reduced, shows its character, and wood ; t, fruit produced on spurs of preceding it is only necessary to sow the seed thinly out- summer's formation, with spurs at side forbearing doors to achieve success. April is the month to following year. Numerals refer to age of wood, sow, but my practice is to always make a note at A terminal shoot (leafless) with spurs on sides is the flowering time of the things that succeed. I shown separately. shall sow more of this annual next April. Even the blazing, scorching sun of this summer has not The Freesia. — This South African bulbous diminished the profusion of blossom. — E. plant is deservedly a favourite, and should be still more widely grown. Many amateurs seem The Porlulaca. — I send you a sketch of a to think that a hot-house is necessary in which to Portulaca, which has been, and is, one of the produce the lovely fragrant flowers of the Freesia. jewels of the garden. The seed was sown in early Nothing could be wider of the facts. Even if one May at the margin of a wide border of mixed tried to grow the Freesia in a hot-house failure hardy plants. Though the sun shines on the would be almost certain to result. One needs Portulaca all day, it seems to rejoice in this full nothing more than a frame or greenhouse, if they exposure. The flowers are very varied in colour, can be heated artificially in case of severe frost | rivalling those of the Mesembryanthemums in so much the better. The bulbs should be potted brilliancy of tints. — E. now. Keep the large ones together and the small ones together, otherwise at flowering time results will be disappointing. By keeping all the large bulbs together an even patful will result, and the effect will be better than if large and small are planted together. The soil used should shoots, such as would be sure to follow if left on the plant, are taken as cuttings about July, put singly into small pots, and when well rooted shifted into those 5 inches across. Apart From the common Hydrangea there are Thomas Hogg, white ; Nigra, with fine heads of bloom; stellata proli- fera, double ; and varie- ^- gata, leaves freely './ i marked with white. The Marguerite. — This is now a general favourite, and it has the advantage of being very easily grown and ex- tremely free. Old plants that have been wintered in the greenhouse will, early in the new year, push out young shoots, and when these are 2 inches long they form suitable cuttings. Dibble them into pots of sandy soil, keep close, and they will soon strike. When s u f f i - ciently rooted, pot them off singly into small pots, and after a few days pinch out the top of each to encourage bushy growth. Then shift them into 5-inch and 6 pots, and they will grow and flower for a time. A tiny grub attacks the leaves. LINUM GRANDIKLOI FLOWEKS. {Muck reduced.) inch long PORTION OF PLUM BRANCH IN CHAKACTERISTIC SUIIMER GROWTH. The Balsam. — At one time the Balsam was much grown, but it is rarely seen now, though this is a pity. There is much interest in the big rosette-like flowers which crowd thickly on the j saoculent stems. The Balsam is raised from seed sown in gentle heat in spring, and the young plants, potted in rich soil, are encouraged to grow freely in a light and airy house. This is the way to obtain fine sturdy plants which will flower for a long time. ' The Common Musk. — A common plant, known by the fragrance of its foliage, and the yellow flowers are also very pretty. Harrison's Musk has larger and showier blooms, but there is less of the true Musk-like perfume. The spotted !:■'.. f^ '•■^:S5' THE GREENHOUSE. Hydrangeas for the Greenhouse — In the milder parts of the country the Hydrangea may be regarded as an outdoor shrub, but in any case be light and sandy, one consisting of two parts it is valuable in the greenhouse. When grown in loamy soil, one part leaf-soil, with plenty of sand large pots or tubs it is usually placed on a balcony and a little dried cow manure added, will suit or similar position, while the smaller plants can them admirably. The most suitable sizs pot to be put in the greenhouse. A favourite way of use is that of 4 J inches diameter, commonly called growing it is with a short stem carrying a huge a"4S." Place the large bulbs almost 1^ inches head of bloom. To obtain these, the stoutest ^^. ^::i^' FLOWERS OK PORTOLACA (Much reduced.) kinds of Mimulua are very handsome when the plants are grown in pots. Sow the seed in early spring, and grow on the young plants until they are in 4inch or Sinch pots. All the Mimulusee or "Monkey Flowers" require plenty of water at the root, but not stagnant moisture. August 25, 1906. THE GARDEN. 93 The Lantana, so much used for beddiDg in the garden, has flattened clusters of flowers, suggest- ing those of a Verbena. It has grown consider- ably in favour of late years, and will bloom from spring till autumn. Treat the Lantana much in the same way as the Fuchsia. The best varieties are Chelsea Gem, amber and crimson ; Distinc- tion, orange-scarlet ; Don Calmet, pink ; Drap d'Or, yellow ; La Neigp, white ; and Magenta King, purplish. Sow the seed in early spring under glass, as recommended in the case of the Verbeni. The Lobelia — Daring recent years a rather tall Lobelia named L. tenuior has been grown, and it is a very pretty flower for the greenhouse. The flowers appear for a long time in summer, and are of a charming cobalt blue in colour. Seed is readily obtainable, and should be sown in gentle heat in spring, the seedlings being pricked off, as soon as they are large enough to handle, in boxes or pans, and after that transferred to the pots in which they are to flower. Six to eight plants in pots 5 inches across make good specimens. Soil suitable for Geraniums will sufiSce. The Myrtle. — A well - known shrub, with fragrant leaves and white flowers. It is quite hardy in the South of Eogland, but must be grown in a greenhouse in the North. It makes an attractive tub plant, and will often remain for years without repotting if given a mixture of soot water and liquid manure occasionally during the summer. The Oleander. — This is a Willow-like shrub, which flowers as a rule during July and August. The great point is to keep the soil moist and give as much light as possible. The ordinary Oleander has rose - coloured flowers, but there are many varieties, some with double blooms. Pelargonium. — There is a great variety of Pelargoniums, popularly called "Geraniums" in our gardens, and each section requires distinct treatment. Perhaps the most universally grown are the zonal Pelargoniums or "Geraniums" — that is to say, those so generally used for bedding out during summer. Take the cuttings in summer, and they will root readily in a green- house from the end of February until the end of August, while in summer they will root out of doors. Old plants that have been wintered in the greenhouse and are straggling may be shortened back about the end of February. Insert the cuttings in pots of sandy soil, and directly the old plants begin to push out new shoots shake them free of the exhausted soil and repot. A mixture of loam, leaf-mould, dry cow manure, and silver sand will suit these Pelar- goniums perfectly. Where a winter temperature of 50° to 60° is maintained, these plants have become very popular for flowering at that season. To obtain good flowering plants for the winter, the cuttings are struck in spring and grown on during summer in a spot freely exposed to the sun out of doors, all flowers being picked off until the end of August. Pots from 5 inches to 6 inches in diameter will be large enough for these plants, which in winter need a light struc ture and a fairly dry atmosphere. A selection of the best varieties is as follows : Salmon — Mrs. C. Pearson, Mrs. C. Cadbury, and Queen of Italy. Pink — Mrs. Williams, Mrs. Brown Potter, and Mrs. Toogood. White — Snowdon and The Ghost. Scarlet — Lord Strathoona and T. Bevan. Crim- son— Duke of Norfolk, Perov Waterer, and Scott Turner. Cerise — General Wolseley, Hall Caine, and J. M. Barrie. Cyclops is purple and white ; Iris, purple- crimson ; and Prince of Orange, a yellow shade. Double-flowered varieties of this class are admired by many, and the best are : Scarlet — Cilifornia, Raspail Improved, and Turtle's Surprise. Salmon — Diubray, Mideleine Lemaire, and Lady Candahar. White — Miss G. Ashworth and Hermoine. Pink — Bertha de Presilly and Pink Rispail. Crimson — Colossus and Double Jicoby. Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums. — In addition to their great value for flowering as pot plants in the greenhouse, Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are useful for furnishing a wall or pillar, and those of a trailing habit for hanging baskets. The soil, instructions for propagating, and other matters given for zonal Pelargoniums apply to this section. Good varieties are : Achievement, soft salmon-pink ; Beauty of Castle Hill, rose ; Leopard, lilac - pink, blotched with crimson ; Cordon's Glory, light scarlet ; Giroflee, magenta- purple ; Princess Victoria, pale lilac ; Souv. de Charles Turner, deep pink and maroon, perhaps the most popular of all ; The Queen, soft salmon ; Galilee, rich rose ; Mme. Crousse, silvery pink ; and Lamartine, orange-scarlet. NURSERY GARDENS. A GREAT SEED FARM. A VISIT to Messrs. E Webb and Son's great seed establishment at Wordsley, Stourbridge, and the extensive seed 1 farm at Kinver, conveys an admirable J^ idea of the wonderful proportions attained by modern developments of this business. That was the unanimous ppinion of the experts who assembled at Kinver recently to inspect the trials of flowers, vegetables, and farm crops, which have gained so high a reputation for this old and esteemed Midland firm. The day was a fine one for the excursion, and despite the dry season the appear- ance of the whole farm and crops was all that could be desired, every department affording abundant evidence of the best organisation, skilful cultivation, and the keenest discrimina- tion in the selection of varieties and stocks of exceptional merit. A considerable treatise would be required to do justice to the details of such a varied and widespread business, but in the fol- lowing notes we can only briefly glance at some of the more conspicuous features, though they will serve to indicate the comprehensive and thorough character of the work undertaken. Floral Favourites. A brilliant part of the farm at this time of year is that devoted to the annuals, which include so many popular garden favourites. Masses of flowers in varied tints, from the most glowing scarlet to pure white, with blue, purple, and crimson shades innumerable ; orange, gold, lemon, and creamy or blush hues are spread over scores of acres of land. Viewed from the upper portion of the slopes the effect was very beautiful under a bright August sun. Tropseo- lums (Nasturtiums) furnished an abundance of colour, many fine varieties being represented, but especially notable were the rich crimson Meteor, the bright scarlet King of Tom Thumbs, and the clear yellow Golden King, all of excellent habit. Purple, white, pink, crimson, and lilac Candytufts or dwarf Rockets formed conspicuous breadths, two varieties, namely, Snowflake and Pink Pearl, attracting much attention. Dwarf Convolvulus supplied fine shades of blue and violet in contrast with white, a handsome type termed Attraction constituting a valuable speciality. Rose, pink, salmon, and white Clarkias were similarly notable, and showed well in proximity to the rich golden Bartonia aurea and the red Linum grandiflorum. Antirrhinum (Snapdragons) of compact habit, very floriferous and varied in colours, admirably represented these old garden favourites. Poppies also in many types were an interesting feature, particularly beautiful being a dwarf form of somniferura named Meteor, with blight scarlet double flowers with numerous narrow petals ; and double white, of similar style and habit, is a good companion to this. Annual Chrysanthemums, Pinks, Cirnations, Gaillardias, Sweet Williams, Balsams, and Zinnias are grown in quantity, the strains or variety first-class in every case. Stocks are especially studied, and a remarkably fine type, termed Admiration, in in four colours, rosy lilac, blush, crimson, and pure white, will find many patrons. Sweet Peas occupy a large area, for the trade is an advancing one in these charming flowers. Scores of long lines of named and select varieties were inspected, one series being from autumn- sown seed, and the other from spring-sown seed. Whether offered in mixed collections or in separate colours, the utmost care is taken to keep up the quality and to maintain the strains true. Asters also receive much attention, but they were not sufficiently advanced at the time of our visit, though they promise well for a later display. Valuable Vegetables. The Kinver varieties of vegetables have won much fame for Messrs. Webb and Son, as their value for general use, market, or exhibition has been amply proved. Peas take a prominent place, as they deserve, and a long chapter would be needed to do justice to the trials that have been undertaken this season. Two varieties were conspicuous at the time of our visit, viz., Stour- bridge Marrow (a heavy-cropping Pea, with handsome, well-filled pods) and Senator (a fine addition, of medium height, wonderfully prolific, the pods filled to the points, and the quality excellent). Lettuces were in eplendid condition, and we have rarely seen so tine a stock. Of Cabbage varieties Great Heart, Wonderful, and Summer- hill were as nearly perfect as possible, and it is difficult to say which one could be preferred. Among the Cos varieties. Ideal (correctly termed a self-folding Lettuce) had fine solid hearts that might excite the envy of any grower. Exhibi- tion and Giant White were also very good. Scarlet Runners formed another remarkable feature, the best types with the firm's proved selections being included. Cabbages for seed occupied numerous acres, and of one for which Messrs. Webb have long been celebrated, i e., Eoiperor, there seemed to be sufficient seed to stock the whole country. Broad and Longpod Beans, Onions, Beet, Tur- nips, Carrots, Kidney Beans — in fact, all the vegetables that are prized in gardens, were under the same systematic trial, and in every instance the selections proved the judgment brought to bear upon this important work. Potatoes consti- tute a business in themselves, and wide areas in parts of this farm or in other districts are required to produce the seed tubers needed every year in the ordinary trade. Famoos Farm Crops Substantial improvements have been effected in many cereals by the labours of Messrs. Webb and Son, who as practical farmers have brought a combination of commercial and scientific know- ledge to bear on the matter. Numerous fine Wheats, Oats, and Barleys are widely known and appreciated by the most successful farmers. Mangolds, Swedes, Turnips, Carrots, Potatoes, cfec, have all been raised to a high degree of merit, while Grasses for pasture and hay, as well as for lawns, form another department of import- ance and interest. Grand crops of seed Wheat clothed the sides of the beautiful hills round Kinver, and proved the stability of the varieties in such a trying season. The Seed Warehouses and Glass. Department. The enormous warehouses and offices in Stour- bridge were in course of preparation for the season of great activity later on ; but in the glass houses, where tender plants are grown for seed, there were two specialities which deserve notice. One of these was a new Tomato raised from a cross in which Ham Green Favourite was one of the parents, the fruits of medium size, bright colour, very even, and borne in bunches of eight 94 THE GARDEN. [August 25, 1906. to ten each. It is a very promising variety in every respect, and should form a useful market Tomato. An excellent strain of Gloxinias has also been obtained, and will find favour with many growers of these handsome plants. It only remains to add that the courteous attention of members of the firm (with their assistants) rendered the visit moat enjoyable in every way, and all agreed it was a day well spent. Extensive as the Kinver farms really are, they represent but a small percentage of the land occupied in other counties with crops grown for seed required by the firm. The home estate is mainly concerned in the trials and comparisons of stocks in the different departments and the thorough testing of novelties. GARDENING OF WEEK. THE FLOWER GARDEN. ROSES — Lite August is the worst time I of the Rose season to obtain good bloom-. If the ground has become dry and the plants are mildewed, a ^ liberal watering with liquid manure and syringing the plants will do much good, causing them to make a clean, healthy tjrowth that will produce an abundance of late flowers. Continue to cut all the fading blooms from the late-flowering ramblers, and tie in loosely all the strong growths. Pkopagating. — Cuttings of Pelargoniums, Heliotropes, and other plants used for bedding should now be taken. See that the soil is free from wireworms and grubs. Place the boxes containing the cuttings of Pelargoniums in the sun, and give a good watering to settle the soil. No more water will be required for some time. Heliotropes and Pentstemons are best inserted round the sides of pots placed in a frame where there is a little artificial heat. Care must be taken when taking the cuttings not to disfigure the beds. The present is a suitable time to make plans for bedding arrangements for another year. With all the plants before one, it is easy to note bidly-blended colours and failures. Such notes would be most helpful when planting time comes round again. Also by determining now the plans for another year, and the stock of plants required for such alterations as are found desirable, the plants may be propagated and stored accordingly. Gkowino Lilicm oiGANTEaM. — This noble Lily is easily grown ; its bulbs while dormant are perfectly hardy. The severest frosts do not appear to injure them in the least, but early in spring they develop handsome tufts of shining, heart-shaped leaves. These are liable to injury if the Bun shines on them while frozen. They flourish admirably planted in a north-west aspect, shaded by trees and shrubs from the east and south. Its noble spikes of flower are seen also to better advantage in the subdued light afforded by the background of evergreen shrubs. In such a position this grand Lily makes one of the finest pictures in the semi-wild part of the pleasure garden This Lily does not require a great depth of soil. Its roots rarely extend more than 1 foot below the surface. Perfect drainage is essential, and a soil consisting of sandy peat and leaf-mould, strengthened with a little loam and plenty of well-decomposed manure make a suitable bed for them. L. giganteum is easily raised from seeds, while these miy be sown as soon as ripe in peaty soil. Ssveral years elapse before the seedlings attain to flowering size. At Merton Hill, the seat of Lord Walsingham in Norfolk, L. giganteum is naturalised in the woods from seedlings which grow with the freedom of Foxgloves. Large bulbs of flowering size do not transplant with satisfactory results. It is best to start with small seedlings, or from the several offsets or young bulbs formed around the base of the old bulb, which dies after flowering. These offsets may be taken now and planted permanently where it is intended they should flower. These young bulbs vary somewhat in size, but I would advise that they be interspersed with the larger ones. By this arrangement, when some have attained to flowering size, others will be following on to bloom in successive years. The irregular way in which the plants attain to flowering size is far more natural and pretty than would other- wise be if all were flowering together. G. D. Davison. Westwick Gardens, Norunch. FRUIT GARDEN. The FR0IT-ROOM — In view of the ingathering of several varieties of early fruits before long, the fruit store, which should have had a thorough cleansing when the last of the previous season's crop was cleared out and ventilated continuously ever since, will require little beyond a brush over to remove dust and cobwebs. Should the cleansing, however, through pressure of other work, have been left over till now, no time should be lost in having this done. The shelves and woodwork should be well washed with soap and water and rinsed with clear water after- wards. Where there are brick or plastered walls, these should be limewashed, and the floors, if of wood or pavement, scrubbed as well. When finished, doors, windows, and ventilators should be kept open until the inside is perfectly dry. The success of a fruit-room depends very much on its construction and site so as to maintain an equable temperature. A building with a thatched roof is preferable to one covered with slates or tiles. The Gatheking of the Fruit must be done with considerable care if fine samples are expected to be placed on the table. Large flat- bottomed baskets well lined with paper, woodwool, or other soft packing material, and only one layer of fruit pat in each, are the most convenient articles to convey the fruits to the store-room or packing shed. Early Peaks do not remain long in good condition after they are gathered. It is there- fore a good practice to gather a few fruits daily, according to the demand, as soon as they bagin to change colour, and thus prolong the supply. It is necessary, however, to let them remain on the trees until they are quite ready for picking, a condition which is easily ascertained by the foot-stalks parting readily from the tree when the fruits are gently raised to a horizontal position. Too early picking will result in the fruits shrivelling. Early Apples may be placed in the fruit- room, where they will remain in good condition for a considerable time. Peach, Nectarine, and Apricot Fruits should be gathered in the morning as soon as the moisture has evaporated and before they become heated. Place all that are aufiBoiently ripe in the fruit-room. The gathering of these soft fruits must be carefully done. Do not squeeze them in the least degree by the fingers, and when they have to be sent long distances by road or rail they should be gathered slightly under-ripe. Gathering Plums. — The choicer varieties should be carefully handled. These should be detached with the stalks from the fruit-spurs, using a pair of scissors, and be laid in single layers in baskets. Plums and other stone fruits will keep for several days in a cool, dry store if placed on shelves covered with tissue paper and at some little distance apart. Thomas Wilson. Olamis Gaatle Gardens, Gtamis, N.B. KITCHEN GARDEN. Celery planted and treated as recommended should be growing strongly by this time. A careful look-out must be kept for maggot in the leaf, which must be pinched out as soon as observed. Be careful not to break more foliage than is really necessary, as there is always a corresponding check to the roots for the amount of foliage broken off. Keep the trenches clean and free from weeds, and see that plentiful supplies of water are given, with occasional waterings of soot or liquid manure. Where early Celery is required for use preparation must be made for earthing up. Break off any small sucker growths and damaged leaves. Tie the leaves together with matting, but not so tight as to impede further growth, or crooked and uneven sticks will result. Place a few inches of soil round the sticks, and see that the soil is fine. If it is naturally heavy and lumpy it will be necessary to break it with a fork. The soil is best placed round the sticks with the hand, which must be done carefully, and placed loosely round so as to allow the heart room to expand. No damage is then done either with fork or spade. Cauliflowers. — Now is a good time to make a sowing of Cauliflowers for pricking out and wintering in cold pits for planting out in early spring. Select an open place on a sunny border for the seed-bed, and do not give any fresh manure. A plot of ground from which a crop of dwarf Beans has been taken is a suitable situation. If the ground is very dry water well before sowing. Sow thinly in drills about 10 inches apart. The variety Dwarf Erfurt Mammoth is excellent for this purpose, producing pure white heads of good quality. Purity Cauliflower, if sown at the same time, and treated in the same manner as regards pricking out and planting, makes a very good succession to the Dwarf Erfurt. Growing crops of Wal- cheren and Autumn Giant Cauliflower should be well supplied with liquid manure water. Cabbages. — If the sowing for the main spring crop has not germinated well, make another sowing without delay, for if the plants are not suitable for planting out this autumn, they may be planted early in the spring, when they will succeed those planted in the autumn. Onions. — Spring-sown Onions showing signs of ripening must have the tops carefully bent over to hasten the ripening process. Bend them all one way, and in about a week or ten days' time they should be pulled up and laid on the bed or along the edge of a loose gravel path, if possible, turning them over carefully every few days to ensure thorough ripening and drying. The harvesting of this crop requires great care, as the keeping qualities of Oaions depend largely on the ripening and handling of the bulb. J. JAQUE8. Bryanston Gardens, Blandford, Dorset. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS. RDLES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Aaswartu—The Editor intends to make THE Oakden helpful to all readers who desire assist- ance, 710 matter what the branch of gardening may be, and teith that olyect will make a special feature of the " Answers to Correspondents" column. All communications should be clearly OTid concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the Editor of The Oarden, SO, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters on busi- ness should be sent to the FUBUSBER. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation he may desire to be used in the paper. When more than tyne query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. FLOWER GARDEN. LiLiUM GIGANTEUM (FT. M.). — We Consider the longitudinal rupture of the larger example submitted to be due to frost in the early part of the year, while the flower-stems were young and susceptible. It is in our experience more frequent in the case of recently-planted bulbs when these are of large, i.< , flowering, sizs — that is to say, bulbs that have been in position for three or more years prior to throwing up the August 25, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 95 flower-spikes sufifer less frequently. The other example, in which several holes are eaten out of the Btem, is new to ui. These holes have probably been made by a caterpillar at an early stage, and when the stem was more tender or succulent. We incline to this view because the damaged part has, apparently, long ago healed up. Basic Slag on Lawn Grass {W. H. T.).— Basic slag is such a slow-aoling phosphate, requiring several monthb' exposure to the soil, and moisture to fully dissolve, that we can hardly assume a dretsing, even if a heavy one, doing harm. What you may mean as an over- dose we do not know, but a dressing of from 51b. to 6lb per rod would not be an overdose as it is a heavy material. Basic slag can hardly be too finely ground, a coarse powder takes a long time to dissolve, and even then is less valuable. The best time to apply it as a grass dressing is in the late autumn, well scratching it in, follow- ing in it April with a dressing of sulphate of ammonia crushed very fine. We prefer to screen a quantity of soil in August sufl&cient to give a lawn a good dressing, and to well mix with it basic slag at the rate of lib. per bushel, turning the heap two or three times later, then dressing the lawn in November. The slag is by that time incorporated with the soil. You can destroy small spreading Clover on a lawn by dressing with Watson's Lawn Sand, but the patches will be browned and unsightly. The best course is in the winter to fork out all the patches cleanly, then either replace them with good grass turf, or, adding some fine clean soil, to sow pure lawn grass seed, devoid of Clover, in the spring. Once fine Dutch Clover gets a foothold in a lawn it is very difficult to eradicate. It is specially rapid grow- ing in moist weather. Making a Watbr Lily Tank {Montjoie). — Under the circumstances the simpler plan will be for you to construct a tank of concrete, ^.e., clean ballast or stone from river sand mixed with cement. With the small gravel sifted from the bulk the bottom and sides could be formed, finally employing the finer msiterial for surfacing the inside. In the first place you require a rather sunny position, and you had better so arrange the tank that its bed will be half in the ground and half exposed. This is desirable on account of the action of frost. In deciding the size of the tank you must allow of a liberal addition in respect to its bises, so as to safely carry the outside walls. For example, assuming that the size inside is intended to be 3 feet wide, the base should be about 4J feet outside measure, and so on in proportion. The base might be made of rougher material, and for the sake of security should be gauged at about three and one, that is, three parts ballast stone to one part of cement. It is important that the cement and ballast be first well mixed while it is dry, as in no other way can the cement be thoroughly inoorpirated with the ballast. When this is done the concrete should be wetted up, preferably on boards, to keep it clean before placing it in position. Six inches thick of this will make a good foundation or base, which should be fairly level when completed. A couple of days should elapse before the sides are built up, the same proportions as for the base being adhered to. As the inner surface of the tank will be lined with a stronger material, the outer walls could be rendered roughly, using larger stone or brickbats well and freely interspersed with sand and cement. A simpler way would be to construct the base as already suggested, and erect the sides in rough brick or even brickbats, finally lining the inside with an inch thick coating of cement and clean sand gauged at two and one. In this case the mortar for setting the bricks should be cement and sand of six to one strength. Lime must on no account be used. If you can obtain rough bricks, or, indeed, any class of bricks, it is possible you will find this the more easy way, as an amateur not infrequently gets his concrete too weak or too wet, with disastrous results. You could, of course, by arranging a tank of oblong shape or a square, build your side and end walls with the aid of a frame of boards set at 6 inches apart, the 6-inch wide cavity to form the wall when the concrete is set. Roughness of walls in building is an advantage, as the cement lining takes more readily thereto. You must bear in mind if you engage in the work yourself that cement will speedily eat holes in the flesh, and the amateur can scarcely avoid contact. By constructing a tank on these lines you will have on the outer surfaces of the above-ground portion of the tank a certain amount of rough wall exposed. This may not only be hidden, but rendered attractive by making a few pockets for rock plants at the sides, where many things would grow quite well. You do not say what Lilies you intend to grow, but the Nymphseas would require a water-bed of about 2 feet deep. MoviN« Kniphofias (Tkiiomas) (J. R. D.).— It is not the proper time, but If they are carefully lifted there is a chance of moviog them successfully about the time meutioned. If the weather is suuny, shade will be required for a time after plantiDg. TREES AND SHRUBS. Ampelopsis Collapsing (J. B. M.). — The 'excessive drought of the present year may have had something to do with your plant of Ampelopsis Veitchi collapsing as it has done, yet at the same time we have recently had accounts from many different sources of plants of this beautiful climber dying off suddenly. The suggestion that it is naturally a short-lived plant does not always apply, for we know of many much older than twenty years. One of the first planted in this country, now nearly forty years ago, has been more or less under our observation ever since, and it has never shown any inclination to die off, while another, almost as old, which was covering a very large space, died back eight years ago to the main stems, but recovered itself, and pushed out young shoots, which have now almost attained the dimensions reached by the original plant. Planting an Avenue (S. A. B.). — Two rows of trees, about 25 feet apart, on either side of the road would, we think, prove the most satisfactory arrangement. Oar idea would be to employ flowering trees of moderate stature, such as double- flowered Cherry, Bird Cherry, Magnolia soulan- geana, Yulan, Laburnums, and scarlet and white Thorns for the front row, and the back row to consist entirely of one, or at most two, kinds of trees, say, the Scarlet Oak, alternated with Robinia Pseud-acacia. You, however, express a wish for greater variety, the trees to consist of both deciduous and evergreen subjects. Of evergreens may be especially mentioned — Cedrus atlantica, Cupressus lawsoniana, Pinus austriaca, P. Lirioio, P. excelsa, P. Strobus, Thuja gigantea. Evergreen Oik, and Holly. Deciduous — Norway Maple, Sycamore, Horse Chestnut, red-flowered Horse Chestnut, Carya alba (Sickory), Magnolia acuminata, Piane, and different Oaks. Flowering of Phyllostachys Henonis (J. R. D.).— There is no doubt that your plant of Phyllostachys Henonis will die, perhaps not Immediately, but even if it llnKers on it is not at all likely to ever recover from its flowering. ROSE GARDEN. Red OB Crimson Roses fob a South Wall {J. jr.).— Crimson Rambler is usually a failure when planted against hot walls or wooden fences, and you are very wise in removing them to your arches. Two fine reds to replace them would be FraE9oi8 Crousse and Noella Nabonnand. The latter is not a bright colour, but it is very beautiful. If the position is a very warm one we should be disposed to recommend Climbing Cramoisie Sup^cieure ; it is a fine climber, and the colour intensely vivid. Four good varieties of various colours for your pergola would be Lady Gay, Trier, Blush Rambler, and Electra. You must remember another season to water the Roses on the walls twice a week should the weather be hot and dry, and weak doses of liquid manure should occasionally be given also. Roses Making Small Growth (Beginner). — As you say the Roses were Hybrid Perpetuals, we are rather surprised that they have made such moderate growth. We should hardly say they have turned out very successfully. Although you may obtain these foreign Roses somewhat cheaper, they do not in the end compare to well- grown plants from our own growers. In reply to your first question as to what is wrong, our opinion is that the plants, coming as they do from a light sandy soil, and planted upon your heavy clay, have not yet become reconciled to the change. The growth for next season's flowering will be that which has bloomed or that has been produced this season. It is not always the strong thick shoots that yield the best blooms. Perhaps when your plants have made more root the growth will be stronger. We think it would have been better if you had picked off all flower-buds before they developed ; this would have been a less strain upon the roots. In pruning next spring cut back severely to dormant buds. Question No. 2 — Do not apply any more liquid manure to these young plants this year. If you have given the liquid too strong this may account for the stumpy growth. Newly-planted subjects rarely want liquid manure the first year if the soil is in fairly good condition. House slops should be diluted with about three parts water, and even then only applied to very strong plants. We should advise you to give the manurial dressing to the beds in the spring, just after the pruning, and lightly dig it beneath the soil, or, better still, remove some soil around each plant, place the manure, then cover with the removed soil. Large plants can take a peck of cow manure so applied, but for small bushes use the manure in a much more sparing manner. This natural manure is better than artificial. A sprinkling of guano, when flower- buds are seen, is helpful to strong-established plants. FRUIT GARDEN. Pruning Fruit Treks (A'. L. P.). — You should prune your Apple, Pear, and Plum trees as soon as the leaves have fallen in the autumn, but even now you could shorten back gross wood or thin out where they are too thick. This latter work requires little care, as you must preserve the main shoots or leaders, but thinning out useless wood now would help the better wood to mature or ripen. Could you not get a little practical advice from a fruit grower on the spot? Chbbbies Falling (Ash). — The cause of your Cherries not coming to maturity is most probably owing to the blossoms having been damaged by frost when the tree was in flower. This being the case, the fruits would not be perfectly formed, and instead of developing rapidly when they should have done, they would shrivel up and fall off, as yours have done. Late frosts were severe this spring, and were responsible for a good deal of damage in this way. Another factor which may at least have helped, even if it did not altogether cause destruction to the young Cherries, is dryness at the root. Fruit trees on walls are very liable to suffer from drought when the fruits are forming — a time when it is especially impor- tant that they should be well looked after in this respect. Even when rain falls it often does not reach the roots of wall fruit trees in sufficient quantity to do them any good, for the wall keeps it off. Next year, when the trees are in flower, and from that time onwards, see that they are well supplied with water, even during wet weather, and, if there is any danger from frost, protect them with canvas or netting. The white fungoid growth which is on your tree is mildew, which may be eradicated by dusting the leaves with flowers of sulphur, or, if too many leaves are affected, syringe with sulphide of potassium, 96 THE GARDEN. [August 25, 1906. which is made by dissolving loz. of liver of salpbur in a quart of hot water, then adding 2J gallons of water. Strawberries Failing {Mrs. Walter Scott). — The Strawberry plant sent appears to be an old one, and if this be the case it ia undoubtedly the cause of the unsatisfactory crops which it gives. Strawberry plants should be pulled up, at any rate, when they have borne three crops, for after that the fruit is small and useless, except for preserving. Some growers pull them up after the second year. We should advise you to pro- cure layers of some good strong-growing variety, such as Royal Sovereign, and plant, not later than September, in well-dug ground that has been enriched with farmyard manure. It is quite likely that the drought that has been so severe in some parts of the country has had something to do with the fruits going off. You do not give us any idea as to what sort of soil yours is ; if it is light and sandy it will need heavy manuring to give satisfactory crops of Strawberries. There was no disease on the plant sent, and apparently no insect trouble that would account for the mischief ; the fault is evidently either in the soil or in the plants themselves. Procure a fresh stock of plants, not layers from your own garden, and plant these in soil that has been well dug and heavily manured. Do not keep plants after they have fruited two seasons. Pear Trees Unsatiseactort ((?. T.). — If your Pear trees were well-developed and estab- lished and you root - pruned them to within 2 feet of the stem, we are not surprised that they had hardly any leaves on them this year. The wonder is they were not killed outright. You treated them far too severely. To cut off all the roots of a tree to within a certain distance of the stem is not the way to carry out root-pruning, the object of which is to cut back any unusually strong roots, especially those which are going downwards into the soil. The fibrous roots near the surface should be left alone. You should have dug out a trench 4 feet or .^ feet away from the stem, gradually working away the soil from underneath with a fork until you came to the ofifending roots. All you can do now is to keep the tree well watered, placing a mulch of manure upon the surface soil around it. Yon might also shade it somewhat from the hot sun by sticking Fir tree shoots among the branches. The loss of the branch on the Cherry tree following upon the same occurrence last year seems to point to something being wrong at the roots. Are you quite sure the tree has not suffered from want of water ? In November take out some of the soil 4 feet or 5 feet away from the stem and replace with fresh turfy loam. Gumming in Fruit Trees [J. E. W.). — There are various reasons given to account for gumming, and stone fruit is more prone to attack from it than are other fruit trees. No one, as far as we know, has been able to give a con- vincing and decisive answer as to how it is caused. The most common belief is that it is caused by a spell of hard frost in early autumn injuring the bark before it has had time to ripen and become hard. Ochers affirm that it is caused by some accidental bruising of the bark, or it may be by the puncture of some insect in the first place. Others attribute it to badly-drained, heavy, and cold soils. Oar opinion, baEed on long experience, is that the most frequent cause is to be found — and especially in young trees — in the fact of the trees making too many strong and sappy roots, and these in their turn making too strong sappy and soft branches. It is in these strong branches, according to our experience, that gumming is most commonly found. If the trees are young enough and can stand it, the best remedy is to lift them early in the autumn, cutting the strong roots severely back, and replant in moderately strong sweet loam with a liberal addition of quicklime. After this operation you will find that shoots of moderate growth will result, and these in their turn will be more fruitful and less likely to suffer from gumming. Trees that are too old to undergo this treatment we should advise you to cut away or scrape all the gummy parts as soon as the leaves have fallen, and then thoroughly wash (rubbing the wash hard in the gummy wounds) the trees with a strong mixture of Price's Gia- hurst Compound, repeating the wash in the spring before growth commences. This will kill any embryo insects which may be hiding in the bark or gumming wounds. RASPBKRKIES (C. T. Ball)— The proper distance between the rows of plants is that which you have given, viz., 6 feet, but you have planted too close in the row. We would advise you to remove every other plant in October or early November. By doing so the plants left will do much better, and you can make a new quarter with those taken out. Lift carefully and they will soon recover. Blight on Apples {H. Jf.).— Our correspondent does not say whether her trees are young or old, or whether they are ^crafted or budded on the Crab or Paradise stock, and what the nature of the subsoil in which the trees are growing may be. If the subsoil ia chalk, and the trees are worked on the Crab stock, we have no doubt that the cause may be traced to the fact of the roots of the trees having penetrated to the chalk, and from which the roots are unable to extract sutticient nourishment, hence a check or chill follows, and, as a consequence, the attack of this fUDgus. If this is the case the remedy lies in getting at the roots and giving them better soil in which to grow this coming autumn, as well as a top-dressing of decayed manure over the surface of the soil as far as the roots extend. If the trees are young and vigorous, and worked on the Paradise stock, we should be surprised to see the frnit affected in this way, as it is most unusual. Grapes not Setting (J. if.).— The cause of not more than half the berries of your bunch of Grapes not develop- ing is because they were not properly set. Some varieties are notoriously shy setters, and need careful attention when the bunches are in bloom. Muscat of Alexandria, Duke of Buccleuch, Golden Hamburgh, and Madrestleld Court are some that need special care when in bloom. We cannot tell from the undeveloped berries which variety yours is, but it is evidently one of the shy-setting sorts. When the bunches are in flower keep the air of the house dry and warm by means of artificial heat in the hot-water pipes, and at the same time give air ; the quantity will depend upon the weather. No doubt the temperature was too low at the time of flowering. Such varieties should also be fertilised artificially, not trusting to self- fertilisation alone, which is sufllcient in the case of Black Hamburgh and other free-setting sorts. A warm, dry, airy atmosphere at flowering time is essential. Water the roots well with tepid water. Is the soil of the border good and sweet, and the drainage perfect ? If not, it is most important that the border should be put right. KITCHEN G.\RDEN. Tomato Growing (O. H.) — Our correspondent asks whether Tomato growing could be made profitable by an amateur ? We answer yes, most certainly, provided " C. H." is prepared to give its culture that time, attention, and knowledge which are absolutely necessary before profitable results can be obtained. We have known num- bers of amateurs starting on this work full of zeal and ambition, thinking it was a sort of game like football or cricket, which might be taken up or dropped at pleasure. It is not so ; indeed, it is a serious business, requiring close attention every day, Sunday included. An hour or two's neglect in ventilating in hot or cold weather, neglect of watering in the former, or excess of it in the latter, might ruin the prospect of a successful season beyond recall. Sa that the work should not be entered on lightly. But given the leisure and the determination to succeed the business is most simple and easy of accom- plishment, and withal capable of affording much pleasure and not an inconsiderable amount of profit. Everything depends on good manage- ment. It is too late in the season to start growing for market for profitable sale this year. In the meantime we hope to treat fully on the matter in due time, as it is a subject we know which specially appeals to many of our readers. The best dimensions for your lean-to houses would be 100 feet long (a few feet more or less would make no difference), 12 feet wide, 10 feet high at back, and 6 feet in front. The front should be of glass if possible, and both back and front pro- vided with ample ventilation. The border inside must be deeply trenched and heavily manured. Such a house would accommodate about 750 plants, planted 1 foot apart in the row, and \a inches between the rows. It is a poor plant that will not give a return of Sib. of fruit to a plant (we have often had as much as r21b. and more), and the price should not be less than 4d. per lb , so that you have a possibility of a return from such a house in one season of the sum of £100. Of course, there would be the expensea to deduct, but these need not be very great if you attended to the work yourself. We ehould start building at the base of the slope, leaving room enough at both ends for a roadway of 9 feet to give room for carting purposes, &o. Besides the doors at the ends there should be a door in the middle communicating with a packing- shed outside the wall. All the heating necessary would be a flow and return 4inch pipe along the front of the house. We do not advocate forcing the fruit early ; it is too expensive, and the abundance of foreign supplies at that time of the year keeps down the prices very low. Comet, Frogmore Selected, and Sunrise are among the best sorts to grow, and the time to sow the seed is the first week in March. Tomato Fruits Diseased (Bcdhonian). — The two fruits sent us arrived in so decomposed a condition that it was difficult to recognise what was the matter with them, but we have no doubt that the spot which appeared on the fruit soon after the foliage of the plant had been cut off is what is commonly understood as sun spot, and was caused by the sudden exposure of the frnit to the hot sun by the, perhaps, cutting away of too much foliage. In case of any further damage in the same way, we should advise shading for a couple of hours at midday until the foliage has regained some of its density. Cucumber Leaves Diseased (A. C. O.). — Your Cucumber plants have suffered at some time for want of moisture, not so much at the roots perhaps as the foliage or atmosphere. You say they are in a greenhouse ; doubtless you have ventilated too freely, and it has been dry with the hot sun we have recently had. The leaves are scorched, and they are also covered on the under portion with red spider and thrips. The former pest has caused your fruits to drop or shrivel. For this reason, the pest eats all the life out of the leaf and stalk, and the plant fails to produce. Good growers give very little ventilation but abundance of moisture. They syringe their plants overhead frequently during the day, and shade heavily in hot sunshine. Your soil is good, but you must now get rid of the pest. Syringe with Gishnrst Compound or a sulphur solution. First remove the worst leaves, shade heavily, and keep the house close. Get new and clean growths by syringing the plant over- head half-a-dozen times a day, and keep the aurface soil moiat, also all parts of the house ; but we must candidly say that if your plants are very bad it would pay you to destroy them and replant, and give more moisture from the start. You see your plants went wrong when there was more demand on the roots, we mean when in frnit, then they require more food and moisture. MISCELLANEOUS. Peas and Beans Diseased (S. Marshall).— Yoxit Peas and Beans are both attacked by fungi. Next season, as soon as there Is any sign of either disease, syringe the plants with Bordeaux mixture or half an ounce of sulphide of potassium (liver of sulphur) to one gallon of water at intervals of a week. Destroy by burning as soon aa possible all the infested plants.— 6. S. S. Working Hours for Gardeners (Jf.).— The working hours for gardeners vary with different localities, and we know Instances where work is begun at 6 a.m., 6.30 a.m., and 7 a.m. The latter, however, though frequent in some Midland districts, is, we consider, too late in summer- time, and if a break is made at S a m. for the first meal of the day, little or no work is done before 9 a.m. A reason- able day is from 6 a.m. to 5 30 p.m. in summer-time. We can scarcely advise about the item of watering, which is, of course, a serious matter, as you do not give the size of the garden. Aa the men are at work till 6 p.m., there should be time for such absolutely essential work, unless the size of the earden and the demand upon the gardener's time renders the work impossible. If this is the case, the simplest way of overcon.iog the difficulty Is by overtime. Watering and the care rf the plants generally should be regarded as among the first duties of a gardener, to be arrange^ for accordingly. GARDEN."^ No. 1815.— Vol. LXX. September 1, 1906. THE GREAT SHREWSBURY SHOW. PHENOMENAL success has attended the efforts of the organisers who have for many years guided the development of the Shrewsbury horticultural exhibition, but in the present season a record has been established of a most remarkable character in every respect. The total entries in all classes nearly reached 3,000, some hundreds in excess of previous occasions, and the additional tent space thus required would have sufficed for many quite respectable provincial shows. Mere numbers alone would, however, yield poor satisfaction, and the even quality prevailing throughout the classes was very creditably representative of British horticultural skill ; it constituted, in fact, an exceedingly interesting feature, as rarely do large shows present such uniformity of merit in every department. The production of fine Grapes always ranks high as a test of gardeners' abilities, and the 400 bunches staged in the various classes at Shrewsbury comprised a large proportion of first-class samples, especially among the black Grapes. The Melton Constable and Ledbury exhibits were notable for their quality, but excellently -grown specimens were observed in many other classes from cultivators who have long been famed for their skill. The champion class possessed par- ticular interest, because the competition was keener than usual, and there was the chance that the crop might be won for the year by another exhibitor. Under Mr. W. Shingler's careful management, the Melton Constable Grapes, however, for the fourth time, were again found worthy of the first place, and whatever the ultimate result may be, a feat has been accomplished that will always have an honourable place in horticultural records. Specimen plants and groups, arranged for effect, were of very high merit, and they grandly furnished one of the most brilliantly attractive marquees in the exhibition. Numerous as are successes which stand to the credit of Messrs. Cypher and Son of Cheltenham, they surpassed all previous efforts on this occasion, both in the superb condition of their plants and the taste manifested in the arrangement. Cut flowers and vegetables were also of unusual excellence, as will be seen from the report on another page, while the non-competing contributions would alone have formed an important exhibition. It is highly satisfactory to be able to record a financial success proportionate to the merits of the display, for the total receipts from visitors on the two days amounted to no less than £3,317, which far surpasses all previous takings. It is estimated that 40,000 persons attended the show on the first day, and 80,000 on the second day, over 100 special and excursion trains having brought this great army to Shrewsbury. A WALL GARDEN. There are wall gardens and wall gardens. Much has been written in these coIdiuds on this InterestiQE; and attractive method of growing plants. Detailed information, accompanied by illustrations, has been given on the correct formation of walls for the reception of plants, and many hints have from time to time appeared upon the preparation of old walls for the planting, in their interstices and on their tops, alpines, and other low-growing subjects. The wall of which 1 write, however, was not built with a view to growing plants, nor is it an old wall easily adapted to their requirements, but one that the majority would at once condemn as totally unsuitable for plant growing, I draw attention to it, while readily admitting the superiority of the wall built for the purpose, or old walls, merely to show that success may be attained under the most unpromising conditions, and that those who have no old walls, nor any built for the purpose of affording living quarters for plants, may yet have opportunities of wall gardening that will prove a source of unfailing interest to themselves, and afford much pleasure to their flower-loving friends. The wall in question is built of limestone, and is just eleven years old, and, therefore, practically new. It encloses a villa garden in a South Devon town, and faces the street. It is 3 feet 6 inches in height, and 14 inches in width. The occupant of the garden, who is a keen florist, conceived the idea of endeavouring to grow rock plants on the top of this wall, and was so successful that the flowers attracted the numerous passers-by and suffered in consequence. Small wire netting, 16 inches in height, was, therefore, 6xed outside the wall, since when the flowers have remained unharmed. Before planting, a stone chisel and hammer were used to break up the mortar between the stones to the depth of a few inches, and the plants, with a little soil adhering to their roots, were inserted in the powdered mortar and watered. Almost everything that has been tried has succeeded, and for many weeks in the year the wall top is bright with blossom. The plants are practically without soil, their roots being in the mortar, but it is extraordinary how contented they appear with their environment, for, though making slow growth, they are the picture of health. To show the nature of the plants that thrive under this treatment, I give a list made at my last visit to this wall garden. Antirrhinum glntinosum, A. Asarina, Androsace lanuginosa, A. sarmentosa, Alyssum sazatile and its variety citrinum, double Arabis, Achillea tomentosa, Ajuga Buchanani, Armerias in variety, Arenaria montana, Jilchionema pnl- chellum, several Aubrietias, Bellis cserulescens, Callandrina umbellata. Campanula pulls and its white form, C. isophylla and C. i. alba, Corydalis Intea. Many of the Dianthns family, among which were D. corsicus and D. atrosanguinea, Draba Aizoon, D. pyrenaica, Echeverias in variety, Erinus alpinus and its crimson and white forms, Gypsophila repens, Iberis Little Gem, several species of Linarias, Morisia hypogaea, Saxifraga burseriana, S. rocheliana, S. valdensis.S. umbrosa, S. macnabiana, S. Guildford Seedling, S. apicnlata, S. marginata, S. oppositifolia, S. pyramidalis, S. Rhui, 8. lantoscana superba, and others. A good collection of Sedums, Sempervivum arach- noides, S. Lamottei, 8. tristis, Scabiosa Pamassi, Thymus oocoineus, Veronica glauoa, V. Lyalli, V. pygmsea, and Wahlenbergia serpyllifolia. Most flower lovers will, 1 think, be surprised at this list of plants growing and flourishing on the top of a new and narrow wall without soil, but it onlv shows what initiative and perseverance can effect. S. W. Fitzhbbbbrt. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. AWARDS IN THE COMPETITION "HOW TO BUD ROSES." The first prize of four guineas is awarded to Mr. B. W. Price, Trelawney, Todsmead Road, Gloucester ; The second prize of two guineas to Miss Kath- leen Tiddeman, care of Lady Sutton, Benham Park, Newbury ; The third prize of one guinea to Miss Mar- guerite Bickersteth, West Lodge, Ripon ; and The fourth prize of half-a-guinea to Mr. W. H. Morton, St. James's Crescent, Gloucester. This has been a most interesting competition and most difficult to judge. Many of the papers sent, besides those of the prize-winners, showed that the writers had great practical knowledge of the subject. No. 1 has grasped the main purpose for which amateurs should bud Roses — that is, to yield those splendid blooms that are so mach in evidence at our Rose shows. It should be well known that most of our exhibitors depend largely upon maiden blooms for their successes. He also advises amateurs to purchase their stocks — wise advice when one remembers the trouble in the rearing of them. Sound advice is given when readers are recommended to give as much care to the planting of the stocks as they would to tho Rose plants. He also does not praise the Manetti stock, for it is now being rapidly dis- carded by rosarians. The drawings are rather weak, and no mention is made of the care of the buds in the spring. No. 2 had the best illustrations, but there was no representation of a bush or dwarf stock, an important omissioD. seeing that some amateurs 98 THE GARDEN [September 1, ir06. are in doubt where to insert the bud upon a seedling Briar. The advice to remove the wood of the bud little by little would not be practical where a number of stocks had to be budded, and the advice to totally cut back the Briars in February is bad. Practical growers find it neces- sary in the case of standards to allow some of the wild Briar to grow for a time in order to draw up the sap, cutting the wild shoot finally away in May or June. No. 3 has excellent drawings, except that the shield of the bud is left too long, and would impede the tying in of the bud. It is advised to bud seedling Briars in the main root below the collar, whereas it is the collar itself in which the bud should be inserted where possible. No 4 is a very practical paper, but the infor- mation with advice how to treat the buds in spring is not followed up. Many of the competitors err in cutting the Briar shoots at time of budding, forgetting that this must considerably check root action and gives no practical result. Others advise putting bud in the mouth while the stock is being prepared for its insertion. This is a most unnecessary detail. Others said that the stock must be a Rose or some plant nearly related. This latter is a fallacy, and no one should attempt to bud Roses upon any stock excepting that of the genus Rosa, Some competitors were too fastidious, advising putting a damp cloth on buds if weather be hot, others by shading with Cabbage leaves. Fancy a nurseryman budding half a million stocks each year having to resort to this practice. Some competitions exhibited signs of being copied from horticultural primers, while on the other hand some proved they had paid gocd attention to the horticultural lecturers. Nearly all the competitors had grasped the essential fact that both stock and bud should be in a fit condition, when the sap is flowing freely, and also as to the necessity of care in pulling out the wood so that the germ is not injured. No competitor mentioned the fact that new Roses could be budded in May, selecting buds from pot-grown plants and budding upon stocks planted the previous year. It is not generally known that some buds, such as those of the Polyantha race, may be inserted with their wood ; indeed, this is the best method of budding these tiny little Roses. Another useful feature was overlooked, and that was the possibility of rebudding some old sorts with modern varieties. Budding pot-grown Briars was only alluded to by one competitor. Where facilities are not available for grafting, or where grafts are likely to be scarce, stocks may be budded in June or July, and in winter these same stocks may be started in heat, and thrive just as well as a grafted plant. Of course it is necessary to pot up some good seedling Briars the previous winter. The papers sent in by the following are com- mended : H. W. Teverson, Waterheath House, Aldeby, Beccles; Mrs. E. Lloyd Edwards, Bryo Oerog, near Llangollen ; Alfred Gardner, Kgl Bot. Garten, Berlin W. 57, Potsdamerste ~ri, Germany ; Jos. A. Ashby, Belmont, 19, Kingston Street, Derby ; Edwin Howes, Braiswick, Colchester ; George D. Rowles, 8, Minster Terrace, Partridge Green, Sussex ; William Bradbury, Constable Road, Ipswich ; Dr. Douglas L. Freeland, Delamere, Snodland, Kent ; G. H. Webster, Oik Cottage, Woolton, Liverpool ; Isa Garland Treseder, 8, Paul's Terrace, Truro, Cornwall ; E. K. Thomas, 2, Leybourne Terrace, Kew Gardens ; F. Cox, Ingleside, Blackwell, near Bromsgrove, Worcestershire ; Mrs. Kathleen Wise, Glautbnanis Farm, ShenSeld, Essex ; H. V. Edwards, Mile Ash, Derby ; Ada B. Early, Stanford House, Witney, Oxon ; Henry Thompson, The Gardens, The Hall, Cottingham, East Yorks; W. J. Smith, The Gardens, Tanglev Park, Guildford ; H. E. Miles, Nettle- bed, Shaftesbury, Dorset ; H. Bussell, 28, Reckleford, Yeovil ; Rev. F. Payne Gillwell, Chirk Vicarage, North Wales. PRIZES FOR GARDENERS. SEPTEMBER. WINTER VEGETABLES. A First Prize of FOUR GUINEAS, A Second Prize of TWO GUINEAS, A Third Prize of ONE GUINEA, And a Fourth Prize of HALF-A-GUINEA are offered for the best essay ujwn " How to Keep a Small Family in Vegetables from November until April." The essay (limited to 1,500 words) must be written on one side of the paper only, and be enclosed in an envelope marked " Competition," addressed to "The Editor of Tbe Garden, 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C." The answers must reach this office not later than September 20. Both amateur and professional gardeners may compete, but it is to be hoped that those who contribute regularly to the pages of The Garden will not do so. The name and address of the competitor must be written upon the MS., and not upon a separate piece of paper. The Editor cannot undertake to return the MSS. of unsuccessful competitors. NOTES OF THE WEEK. FORTHCOMING EVENTS. September 1. — French Horticultural Society's Meeting. September 4 — National Amateur Gardeners' Association Meeting. September 5. — Glasgow and West of Scotland Horticultural Show (two days). September 6. — National Dahlia Society's Show (two days). Paisley Horticultural Show (two days) September 8. — Eddleston Horticultural Show. September 11 — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition and Meeting. September 12 — Roval Caledonian Society's Show (two days) ; Sheffield Chrysanthemum Society's Meeting ; East Anglian Horticultural Club's Meeting. September 17. — National Chrysanthemum Society's Meeting. Pelargonium Firedragon. — Your correspondent " R. H. B." refers to the keeping properties of the above, which, although not new, having been in commerce quite seven or eight years, is well worth attention. It may be of interest to many of your readers to know that Mr, E. S. Towell, Hampton Hill, was the raiser of Firedragon, and that it took him eleven years in selecting and reselecting it until he brought it to the present -state of perfection. Quite recently he showed me a bloom of a pleasing shade of salmon-pink which he has produced from the original. — W. H. Riddle, Siddlesdown, Hampton-mi- Thames. Show of Chpysanthemums.— Owing to the extraordinary success which attended the first exhibition of the Evening News Chrysanthemum League in October last, when the number of visitors was so great that many thousands were unable to obtain admission, it has been decided to keep this years show open for three days, and the Royal Horticultural Society's Hall has been engaged from September 20 to 22 inclusive. The prices of admission have been fixed as follows : First day, 23. Gd. before 5 p m.. Is. after ; second day. Is. from 9 a.m. to 10 p-. ra. ; third day, 6d. from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Early notification will be necessary of intended exhibits, as there is already a marked desire on the part of professional growers to be represented, and the space reserved is very limited. There is also a limited amount of wall space, suitable for business announcements, &c., still unallotted. The success of this year's show is already assured, for in June nearly 7,000 plants in thirty- seven decorative Japanese varieties and sixteen varieties of Pompons were applied for by members of the Chrysanthemum League, and, judging by the letters already to hand, &c., a very large number of members will compete for the many prizes offered. All communications must be addressed to the Secretary, Evening News Chrysanthemum League, Carmelite House, E. C. Messrs. Kelway's Gladioli.— Mr. E. Carter, Somerton Erleigh Gardens, Somerset, writes that the Gladioli at Langport are very beautiful just now. Meladore or French Turban Ranunculus. — Your many readers may be interested to know that the most lovely and variable display of these is now in full bloom at Messrs. Hartland's Ard Cain Bulb Grounds, Cork. They were planted the end of May, and stimulated with a special garden fertiliser shaken in when planting. They were put in fresh loam, and the result, so out of season, is that two large beds of them are beautiful beyond description. Asters, Zinnias, Stocks, &c., cannot attempt to' reach them for beauty and diversity of colour. Anemone St Brigid is nowhere against them, and nothirg in the garden is more beautiful. The Royal Fern at Klllarney.— I was delighted to see the Royal Fern (Oamunda) growing in its wildest luxuriance at many points along the Lakes of Killarney. In the churchyard at Muckross Abbey adjoining the lakes I have never seen the Hart's-tongue Fern (Scolopendrium) in finer condition, there being quite a cartload attached to some of the graves. Nearer Killarney town the Scaly Spleenwort (Ceteraoh) grows freely on the wall by the roadside, along with two other species — the Wall Rue and black- stemmed Spleenworts (Asplenium Ruta-muraria and A. Tricbomanes). Evidently the mild damp atmosphere favours the growl h of fuch plants, for in many instances the individual specimens were the largest that I have ever come across. Of the Irish Polypody (Polypodium vulgare semilacerum) I saw several large clumps, but it is rare. — O. D. Webster, Regent's Park. Obituary— Mrs. Ballantlne.— The friends of Mr. Ballantine (bead gaidtner to Biron Schioder at The Dell, E^ham) — and they include all who have the pleasure of knowing him — will extend to him their sincere and heart- felt sympathy and condolence on the death of his wife, which occurred on the 17th ult. after a long and painful illness, patiently borne. Few gardeners' wives were better known or more highly esteemed for her kindness of heart and generous hospitality than Mrs. Ballantine, and seldom has a gardener been blessed with a better helpmate and companion either in domestic or business affairs than Mr. Ballantine, and we tender bim and his family our sincerest sympathy. Death of Professor W^ard.— Pro- fessor H. Marshall Ward, author of many valuable treatises on the diseases of trees, plants, and fungi, died at Torquay on Sunday, the 26th ult , after a long illness. Dr. Ward, who had been professor of botany at Cambridge University since 189.3, was the possessor of many academical hoaours and distinctions. He was born in 1854, and educated at Owen's College, Manchester, and Christ's College, Cambridge. He was a D.Sc. (Cambridge and Victoria Universities), Royal medallist, 1893, president of the British Myco- logical Society, 1900-2, Cryptogamic Botanist to the Ceylon Government, 1880-82, a fellow of several colleges, on the council of the Royal Society in 1895, Professor of Botany in Forest School, Cooper's Hill, 1885-95. Professor Ward was a fellow of the Royal Horticultural Society. We lose in Professor Ward a man whose place in the scientific world will be hard to fill. September 1, 1906.1 THE GARDEIN 99 Cutting: names on trees.— We are glad to note that a Mr. Wright was fined and ordered to pay damages for cutting the initials of himself and his wife on the trunk of a tree in Lord Durham's grounds, Limbton Park. Lord Durham practically closed the estate through this silly practice a short time ago. DestPOyingf ants.— A very effective way of destroying ants that infest the inside of houses is to get an old stable sponge, dip it into a mixture of sugar and water, and then place it near their haunts. In a very short time it will be full of them, and they are quickly killed by pouring boiling water on the sponge. If the process is persisted in they will be completely destroyed in a very short time. — C. P. London Gepaniums. — Mr. F. W. Speaight wrote to The Times recently in reference to the sad condition of the Geraniums in Parlia- ment Square : "Although by no means a lover of the motor omnibus, I feel, in justice to that obnoxious vehicle, that the statement by your correspondent in his interesting article on West- minster Abbey in to-day's Morning Post, ' that the withered-up appearance of the Geraniums in Parliament Square is due to the exhaust from the motor omnibuses,' should be corrected. I have for some time watched with a certain amount of attention the cause and effect of the present sad condition of the flowers in question, and there is no doubt to my mind that the blighted condition of the plants is caused by the injurious acids blown off from the wood paving which was laid on the north side of the square last November. Doubtless by next summer most of this acid will have been exhausted, but at present, after a windy day, the young leaves of the plants in the beds on the north side wither up within twelve hours. The Geraniums themselves are of a par- ticularly fine kind, and I may mention that they and the Geraniums which at present add such a bright and charming f ffact to the front of Buck- ingham Palace are cuttings from the same plants. It is diffioult to know what to recommend to prevent a similar misfortune occurring next time the road has to be repaved. Possibly if in the early spring the road was constantly washed in the early morning the acids would disappear before bedding-out time. At present I under- stand this thoroughfare is never watered except at the sides, which doubtless explains much of the cause of the mischief." The newer Montbretias at West- wick. — A border of Montbretias growing here of G. Davison, Germania, and Massidor are bo beautiful just now that on the 13 ih ult. I journeyed over to Maj jr Petrie's place at West- wick (so rich in herbaceous plants) to see how many more beautiful seedling varieties Mr. G. Davison has on trial. After raising the variety named after himself, and Promethus, the largest and most beautiful one so far, shown before the Royal Horticultural Society's committee in 1905 and received their award, one expects to find something good to follow from continued hybrid- ising, and I was not disappointed. Among several notable seedlings flowering in the borders Westwick and Nelson are both distinct and beautiful, the colour a glowing orange-scarlet. Westwick, with a distinct zone of rich crimson, with flowers 3 inches to 4 inches across ; St. Bodold, a large yellow ; King Edmund, Anglia, and other fine seedlings yet unnamed. Seedlings yet to flower, plants in pots carrying seed-pods, after careful fertilisation, which will in time give the gardening world a race of gorgeous August- flowering plants, equal to the Gladiolus and Phlox for masses of colour, for the flower garden and borders. The varieties mentioned above are masses of colour 3 feet to 4 feet in height, with branching flower-stems, so unlike the older varieties, more leaves than flowers. The culture required to obtain these fine spikes of flowers is to separate the bulbs in autumn, box or pot them for a greenhouse shelf, or plant in cold frames. Plant out in spring in well-prepared 1 borders, bulb and stolons intact, when from three to six flowering-stems will be the reward for the extra care given.— W. Allan, Gunton Park. THE FLOWER GARDEN. NEW ZEALAND FLAX. M R. CHAELES PRENTIS, Posiers, Borden, near Sittingbourne, writes : " In view of the interest aroused by the specimen of the New Zealand Flax (Phormium tenax), lately shown in a tub at the Holland House Show, I enclose a photo- graph of a fine clump glowing and flowering here in my garden in North East Kent. Raised from seed twelve years ago it now has leaves 8 feet long, and planted out on a lawn is a most decorative object. It has never had protection of any kind, and is evidently much hardier than is generally supposed." FLOWER NOTES. Omphalodes LnciLi^. — I should like to give my experience of this plant, in the hope that others may be encouraged to grow it. Of its beauty I have never heard two opinions expressed, and as it is in flower for at least four months, and is, owing to the colour of its foli- age, almost equally attractive during theremaining eight, there must be, one would think, some extraordinary diffi- culty in its culti- vation, as it is so seldom seen and is absent from so many catalogues. Here in Reading I can safely affirm that no alpine is of easier culture. The same plants have given me delight year after year for the last fifteen, and when I had to break up a plant some twelve years old it parted into some fifteen pieces, of which twelve are alive to-day and doing well. M. Correvon finds it sets seed but sparsely ; here, at all events, that is hardly the case, as I collected last year some 600 seeds and disposed of them to two firms. Seed sown in autumn will produce flower- ing plants within the twelve months, but all the seedlings will not, for some inexplicable reason, have the beautiful glaucous foliage. The plant does equally well in a flat bed filled with Roses or on the rockery. We have but few slugs here, and that is, no doubt, a help ; but of soil we have nothing but stony gravel, and have to make it especially for each plant. The Omphalodes seem perfectly happy in heavy loam or in a gritty, light rich soil such as suits most alpines. All the plants face the east, and the only attention they receive is a good watering in times of drought. Tecophtl^a cyanoorocus.— When I offered some of the leading firms seed of this plant, I was met practically with the same answer, viz., that there is little or no demand for it. This neglect is even more startling than that of the Omphalodes. It is just conceivable that of the latter someone might say, " Oh yes ; it is a pretty sort of Forget-me-not with rather attractive foliage." But no one who has seen the Tecophy- Isea in flower, unless he be colour-blind, can fail to fall in love with it. Not even Gentiana bavarica can touch it in the depth of its blue. Why, then, is there no demand for it ? I have seen it in flower in a garden high up on the Kirkstone Hill, a garden which, owing to the wealth of conifers, let in but little sun, and it has flowered here every year as regularly as May cornea round. The conditions of the two gardens could hardly be more dissimilar. I can but state how it is treated here. It is planted in a bed prepared for Oncocyclus Irises, but with less lime than they require ; the soil is decent friable loam and about 2 feet deep ; the drainage is perfect, and the position very sunny. We have it also in a pocket on the rockery in a soil consisting of loam, leaf-mould, and grit, and during nearly the THE NEW ZEALAND FLAX AT>OSIBBS, BOBDBN, NEAB aiTTINGBOUHNH. 100 THE GARDEN. , September 1, 1906. whole of May the e£feot was delightful. No protection whatever has been given either to it or the Omphalodes. While it was treated as a pot plant we were unsuccessful. The roots are too long, I imagine, for an ordinary 6 inch pot, and the plant gets starved. But what need ie there to grow it in a pot when it is so amenable to culture in the open ground ? Edcryphia PINNATIFOLIA. — If any are on the lookout for a good shrub to plant among Rhodo- dendrons, they could hardly select a better than the above. Years ago Mr. Ewbank told me it was the best hardy shrub in existence, and though no doubt such a claim will be disallowed by many, yet all will agree that the Euoryphia in the aspect of its flower— a glorified white Hyperi- cum—is an object of great beauty in August. Here the two bushes are 10 feet and 8 feet high, and both were covered with flowers. These when picked preserved their beauty longer in water than those left on the tree The foliage, too, is very attractive. The two bushes have had no attention whatever beyond sharing with the Rhododendrons occasional waterings. Bartonia oknata = Mbntzelia decapetala. On a bed prepared for Opuntias there appeared a number of plants which completely puzzled us. Many were destroyed, but over three or four I put a glass in winter, and they are now in flower. I hope to enclose a photograph to show how beautiful the habit is. The main branches are •2 feet to 3 feet long, with short stems (1 foot to li feet) issuing from the main stems, and at the end of each is a flower 5 inches in diameter when expanded. The flower is white or a very pale lemon, and its beauty is enhanced by the dark stamens. Beading. A. C. B. IXIOLIRION MONTANUM. This Ixiolirion is a great improvement on I. tatarioum. The flower-stems of the subject of this note were nearly 30 inches in height, while those of I. tataricum did not exceed 14 inches, and in place of the six blossoms borne on the spikes of the latter species, I. montanutn often carried twelve blooms on a spike, while the flowers were of greater size. In the colour of the flowers both were identical. The Ixiolirions are natives of the mountainous districts of An& Minor, and appear fairly hardy. They do best in a gritty compost, and when allowed to bear seed, self-sown seedlings often appear around the parent plants. When planted in quantity they have a pretty effect when in flower. S. W. FiTZHBRBBBT. botanical characteristic. "H. P.," while re- ferring to the axilary bulbils in the case of L. B leucanthum, omits a chief external chiracteristic of L B. chloraster, viz , that there are no bulbils in the leaf axils. It is of importance in any note of the Brownii forms, L B chloraster has much less external colouring than L B. leucanthum generally, while the inner colouring of the segments and their fine texture stamps this rare and beautiful Lily as a gem indeed ; for intrinsic beauty, I place it first among the varieties of L. Brownii. E. H. Jenkins. MECONOPSIS INTEQRIFOLIA. About a year ago, I purchased a packet of seed of the new biennial Meconopsis integrifolia. It was sown in a pot in a cold frame, care- fully protected from strong sun. Nothing appeared, but a local nurseryman begged me not to throw it away. Two friends bought seed about the same time, and nothing c»me up. My pot remained all the year in a cold frame, with the result that about a fortnight ago six nice seedlings appeared. I should be much interested to hear whether other readers of The Garden have fared the same as myself. Lincoln. G. M. Sandars. THE ROSE GARDEN. constituent of the compost ; in fact, this should be done with all Rose soil, and it is marvellous to see how the little roots lay hold of the tiny particles of bone. A. K. Williams blooms well in autumn, at a time when red Roses are scarce. P. ROSE VISCOUNTESS FOLKESTONE. R. MciLlSTER, Dumcrieff Gardens, Moffit, sends a photograph of Rose Viscountess Folkestone. The plant has five fully developed blooms, each 6 inches in diameter, on a single stem. It has withstood a lot of wet weather, was cut on Friday morning (10th ult.) during heavy rain, and has not a blemish. It has been very much admired, and, I think, is rather unusual. It is a dwarf bush, and was pruned close to the ground on April 1. It was lifted and replanted with others last November, the ground trenched, and a liberal application of cow manure applied under the roots. Roeos do well at Moffat, but require to be lifted every three or four years. ALSTRCEMERIA AUREA. This is one of the moat useful herbaceous plants we have, eiiher for cutting, massing, or for making a good show, and when established increases rapidly. Three years ago this autumn I lifted a large quantity, as it had overrun every- thing. I planted it 6 inches deep, and after trenching the border, replanted in the same situation. The first year after planting not one came up, the second year a few appeared, and this, the third year, they are in thick masses. I am curious to see if they flower this season, and if any other readers have had the same experience with this plant. Rtlg Gardens. J. S. Higgins. LILIUM BROWNII VARIETIES. In referring to L. Brownii leucanthum and L. sulphureum, on page 235 of The Garden, "H. P." remarks on the general likeness of the two plants, and says, "I fail to see why they should be regarded as specifically distinct." This is the result of a mere cursory examination of the external characters. Mr. Baker, however, goes deeper than this, and his line of demarcation of the Brownii forms is, I believe, centred around the hairy character of the filaments at AN UNCOMMON TEA ROSE. It often happens that some of the loveliest Roses are never met with at shows. I do not remember ever seeing the variety Mme. Jacques Charretor at an exhibition, but I venture to say it will rank among the most beautiful of the Tea Rose section for garden decoration. There is absolutely no form to commend it, but its merit consists in the colours, and it is this that one finds a difficulty in describing. The main part of the flower is of a rich orange and apricot blend- ing, the tips of the petals being of a salmon rose hue. Then the outer petals are almost milky white, the whole making a flower of great beauty from a colour point of view. The growth is good, and apparently the variety is as hardy as most of the Tea-scented varieties. HYBRID TEA LADY ASHTOWN. Messrs A. Dickson and Sons of Newtownards have raised many fine Rases belonging to the Hybrid Tea section, but the three which have found most favour in my eyes are Mrs. W. J. Grant, Marjorie, and Killarney. An exhibitor would, no doubt, name Mildred Grant and Bessie Brown as his first favourites, but, as readers of The Garden are well aware, exhibition Roses do not come within my scope, and my notes are penned for the benefit of those whose idea is not the garden for the Rose but the Rose for the garden. The three varieties that I have named as being especial favourites in my garden are three of the most beautiful " bedders" that have ever been sent out, and have found their way into the majority of gardens in which Roses are grown. Eich year I have studied Messrs. Dickson's new Roses to see if among them there was a variety which would equal or surpass this famous trio, and I am happy to say that Lady Ashtown is proving itself in every way as valuable in the garden as either of them. Let me enumerate its virtues, and explain why I consider that it is worthy of such select company. First of all, it is a very vigorous grower, fine in leaf, profuse in flowering, and excellent in habit. The wood is strong, upright, and closely set with large thorns ; the growth is branching, and the blooms are produced on fine long stems and are charming in shape and colour. The buds are long and pointed, and open into large full flowers with gracefully reflexing petals. The only charges that can be made against this Rose are that it is only slightly scented, and that its colouring — a shade of rose, which Messrs. Dickson define as " very pale Rose duBirri, with the reflexes of the petals silvery pink " — is already well represented in our gardens. Despite these drawbacks. I feel certain that this Rose will rank with Killarney as a bedding variety of first-rate habit, and the wealth of high quality blooms will certainly astonish all who give it a trial. So excellent has its behaviour been with me that I am quite ready to endorse the words of Messrs. Dickson, who say that it is "one of the best we have ever raised." Worcestershire. Arthur R. Goodwik. ROSE ALFRED K. WILLIAMS AS A BEDDING ROSE. This variety is diflScult to grow, but where it can be managed it is one of the best crimson colours we have, far surpassing Liberty for this special purpose of massing. There can be no doubt but that the seedling or cutting Briar is the best stock for it. Although it will thrive the first year on the Manetti stock, my experi- ence does not warrant me in recommending this stock. That the beds should be well prepared hardly needs to be mentioned, for no one nowa- days would think of planting Roses in the old worn-out stuff of existing beds, and a cartload or two of good meadow loam is an excellent ROSE KILLARNEY. What a charming Rose this new Hybrid Tea has proved, and how happily named. It has been much in evidence at the principal shows of the year, and by its colour, a suffused pink, its long pointed bud, and the still greater charm of its half-opened bloom attracted much attention. As a decorative flower there is, in my opinion, a great future before it. Its robust growth renders it one of the best for cutting for room and table decoration, the flowers standing boldly upright, and being at the same time of good substance they last for a considerable time in bloom. I was very pleased with a table decoration arrangement furnished entirely with this Rose and its dark rich foliage, which I saw at Woodbridge Flower Show on the 12th inst. It easily took first prize in a good class, and that by many points. OwBN Thomas. their bases, A very ample and sufficient | investment. Bone-meal should form a liberal GROWTH OF FRAU KARL DRUSCHKI ROSE. I HAVE a Frau Karl Druschki Rose in my garden that has this year attained the height of 7 feet 9 inches. Some of its leaves are over ID inches in length, and the stem at the base nearly three- quarters of an inch in diameter. It is now in flower, and I notice that it has started again to go still higher. It is one of many that were budded last year on the Manetti stock. It is Skptembbr 1, 1906.] THE GAKDEN. 101 quite common for this variety to produce shoots 5 feet or 6 feet long by the autumn here, but as you'Will note by the photograph eDclosed the one in questioQ has left her sisters far behind. Enfield. ConRTNEY Pagb. SOME GARDEN HERBS. The sweet herbs of the kitchen garden are by no means so generally or so worthily used as they deserve. Probably those whose business it is to use them do not have reasonable opportunities for gaining a good knowledge of their properties and ways and seasons of growth. For this reason we have always strongly urged, in the case of country houses newly built, that there should be a small space of ground, easily accessible from the kitchen, where the cook may run out and gather her own herbs. If it is in the form of a little rock garden so much the better, for the greater number of the kitchen sweet herbs are either plants from the south of Europe, or at any rate plants delighting in well-drained banks and hot sunshine. It might even be quite a pretty little place where the cook could go out and gather her "bouquet" for some delicate soup, sauce, or stew — a little sprig or two of this or that, varied according to her knowledge of the needs of her art. Everything would be ready to her hand, and at the same time she would be pleasantly learning the ways of the plants. The Thymes, Savouries, Basils, and Penny- royal are low-growing things, the variety of Thyme called bush or tree Thyme being a little bush only a few inches high. Tarragon, Balm, Burnet, Marjoram, and Fennel are taller. The two last like chalk. Sage is a handsome low bush. Balm, Marjoram, and Lemon Thyme come into stuffings and force- meats that accompany white meats. Tarragon and Chervil (the latter an annual, looking like a thin uncurled Parsley and tasting much like Tarragon) are the best flavouring herbs for salads. The Wormwoods (Artemisia), of which the common wild Mugwort and the Ambrosia figured are both examples, are but little used now, though in the days when simple remedies were prepared at home, and the good house- wife took a pride in what her still-room pro- duced of healing decoctions and dainty food accessories, several of the Artemisias were used, either as tonic and vermifuge medicines or as flavouring for cordials. The herb garden would also have a good supply of Parsley and a tuft or two of Chives. TREES AND SHRUBS. THE BRUSH BUSH. (EnCRTPHIA FINN ATIFOLIA. ) » LTHOUGH the hardiness of this fine /% shrub is proved in many districts, / % many are unwilling to try it on / \ account of its reputation for tender- y j^ ness. Recently I came across a specimen in the garden of Mr. W. D. Robioson-Djuglas at Orchard ton, Kirkcudbright- shire, of an unusual size for the North, and one which, when in flower, is of great beauty. It is not on a wall, but well forward in a group of widely-disposed shrubs, with an exposure which is almost south. It is now about 12 feet high, and forms a shapely little tree, very pretty when in leaf with its pinnate foliage, and still prettier when in bloom with \t% large white flowers with their conspicuous stamens. Tne soil is a good loam, and the posi- tion, while favour- able, is no better than many to be had along the West of Scotland. S Abnoit. YUCCA RECUR- VIFOLIA. The hardy Yuccas form an exception- ally valuable group of shrubs, being quite distinct in appearance from anything else, very ornamental, and useful for planting in most parts of the country. When out of flower, the plants are very striking by reason of the large, strap - like evergreen leaves, which are borne in immense heads ; but they are much more imposing when crowned with their large terminal inflores- cences of cream- coloured flowers, such as is shown in the accompany- ing photograph. The hardiest cf the Yuccas are from rhe Southern United Stales, and the three most frequently met with are angusti- folia, gloriosa, and recurvifolia. Y. recurvifolia is the most common, and is found in many establishments. At K-,w several groups of various sizes are to be seen near the main gate, where they look very efifective with the pillars of a formal building in the background. The leaves of this are stmi-ptndant, by which it difl'ers from Y. gloriosa, whose leaves are very stiff and upright. The flowers in both cases are very similar, and it is impossible to tell one from the other when cut. The other species, Y. angustifolla, has very narrow, glaucous leaves, and forms a very small bit of stem, but has large inflorescences 3 feet or more long of good-sizud flowers. When selecting a position for Yuccas, one exposed to full sun on rather light soil should be provided. Oflfsets severed from the upper branches or pieces of underground stems root with ease if placed in a close case. Seeds are sometimes produced, but raisine from seeds is a slow process. Associated with Bamboos, Yuccas are very efi'ective, but in those places where Palms, Cordy lines, &c., thrive out of doors, excellent e£Fects of a sub-tropical appearance are easily produced by grouping the various subjects. DIERVILLA (WEIGELA) CANDIDA. This pure white-flowered Uiervilla should have a place in every garden, as it is very floriferous and in bloom practically from June to August It is one of the strongest growing of the genus, and soon forms a large, handsome bush 4 feet to 5 feet high by as much in diameter. The growth is strong and upright at first, gradually arching with age, and displa} ing the flowers to advantage. A OBOUP OF rnCCA RECURVIFOLIA. The latter are borne in terminal clusters of from five to ten, and are pure white, with a lemon mark on the lower part of the throat. They are among the largest of Diervilla flowers, being individually over 1 inch across, tubular, and much resembling a Gloxinia in miniature. The plant will grow in almost any soil, and does not mind partial shade, though it will not thrive directly under trees. It is easily propagated by cuttings taken at almost any time of the year. D. Candida associates well with the dark red D. Eva Rathke, but the latter is not so strong a grower, which should be remembered when plantine them together. Bagshot, Surrey. J. Clark. THE FIEE BUSH. (Embothrium coccinetjm.) The Fire Bush, as Embothiium coccineum is sometimes staled, is without doubt the most brilliant-flowering tree that can be grown in the open in this country. A native of the Andes of South America, it is perfectly hardy in South Devon and Cornwall, where it is to be found in every good garden, some possessing ten or more specimens. Some of the finest examples are 40 feet in height, and when in full fljwer are gorgeous in their colouring, appearing as clouds of vivid vermilion at a distance, so thickly set are they with countless clusters of long, droop- ing, bright scarlet flowers. The Embothrium when p'anted in congenial soil is a rapid grower. A tree that I know in a certain Cornish garden, 102 THE GARDEN. [September 1, 1906. and that is now 25 feet in height and 15 feet through, was planted out twelve years ago when 6 inches high. It has twice been blown over by gales and its roots torn up on one side, but, being carefully levered up into position again and temporarily supported, grew away without a check, and now is a healthy tree showing no effect of either disaster. Old specimens when showing a failure of vigour are cut back compara- tively hard, and rarely fail to make strong young growth and renew their youth. The Emboth- rium is a difficult tree to propagate. Many specimens in the south-west produce seed freely, but the seedlings often die off in quantities, eo much so that a certain nurseryman has discon- tinued the raising of seedlings, and depends entirely on layers. That this practice, however, does not secure immunity from collapse is proved by the fact that the late head gardener at Fota raised many layers, which he distributed as well- rooted plants, and almost all of which died. S. W. FlTZHEKBKRT. AN ORNAMENTAL HEDGE. In searching through some recent issues of The Oabden for mention of the most desirable bulbs for autumn planting, I see an enquiry for an evergreen hedge. It may therefore be of some interest to mention that I saw one so beautiful that I sent for the gardener of the place where it was to enquire into the composition, and was told it was of Thuia occidentalis. It was of a lovely grass green shade, and in excellent con- dition. Tuscan. THE FRUIT GARDEN MELONS IN HOUSES. DURING the warmer months of the k year the Melon is a most accept- I able fruit, and one which is not i difficult to cultivate successfully, provided plenty of heat is at command, ^,6 [either by means of hot-water pipes or fermenting materials. Sowing the Seed. The seed for the earliest crop may be sown about the middle of January, placing one seed in a well-drained 2^-inch pot filled with loam in a good condition as regards moisture, and plunging the pots in a hotbed of about 80°, made, if possible, in the house in which the plants will eventually be grown, and where a day temperature of 70° is maintained, with a tempera- ture of e.")" by night. No water is needed until germination has taken place. After the seed leaves of the young plants are well away from the soil, the pots should be placed on a shelf quite close to the glass, and at night it is a good plan to either remove them to the bed or cover the glass outside to prevent radiation. As the young plants advance in growth, care should be taken to give them all the light possible to prevent a drawn growth, and in the course of a week or so they can be potted into 3 -inch pots. Great care should be taken in potting, and on no account should the collar of the plant be placed lower than it was in the seed-pot. To the neglect of this precaution and bruising of the stem by careless handling may, in a great measure, be attributed the decay at the collar of the plant, which often sets in at a later stage in its growth. Making the Bed. Preparations may now be made for making the bed on which the plants will be grown, and in the case of properly-constructed pits no difficulty will be met in obtaining sufficient bottom-heat by filling the pit with fermenting materials, which have been thrown up together and turned to let off the rank vapours. In our case the pits are about 3 feet wide by 4 feet in depth, and they are filled with manure and leaves to about 1 foot above the top course of bricks, and made thoroughly firm with the fork to prevent it sinking to any great extent. The bed is then covered to a depth of 18 inches with good loam, and beaten with a brick or rammer as firm as it is possible to get it, and when finished should be in the form of a ridge, not more than 2 feet or 3 feet from the roof. When the soil is thoroughly warmed through, the plants can bs set out on the crown of the ridge at about 15 inches apart, care being taken, as in the previous potting, not to plant deeper than they were in the seed pot. Stakes should then be inserted and fixed at the top end to the lowest wire of the trellis on which the plants will be trained, the young plants being tied carefully to the stakes. Progress. Greater progress will now be noted, and it will not be long before the plants reach the wire trellis. Side growths on the lower part of the plant should be carefully removed as they appear, and the plants kept to a single stem until they have made a growth of 3 feet or so np the roof, when the tips of the shoots should be removed to throw the strength of the plant into the lateral growth. Care should be taken in watering and syringing, and in the maintenance of a genial temperature of 75" to 80° or more with sun-heat by day, with a minimum of 65° by night ; but should cold weather prevail, better results are obtained by covering the house with mats or blinds than by firing too severely. Treatment After the Flowers Open. As the laterals advance in growth the flowers will begin to make their appearance, and as these latter open a slightly drier atmosphere will be found beneficial, so that the pollen will be in a better condition for fertilising. This operation is best carried out about noon either with a camel-hair pencil or by detaching the male flowers, and, after removing the corolla, inserting it in the female flower. When it is found that a good set has been obtained, four to five fruits to a plant will be enough. The growths should be regulated, and for the next few weeks attention must be given to stopping, tying, and careful ventilation. When the fruits are the size of a croquet ball, support of some kind must be given. Some use nets or small pieces of board with a hole in the bottom to allow water to drsCin away. A length of string, however, passed over the wire at the top of the fruit, brought down the side, crossed, and taken up to the wire and tied will be found satisfactory, but allowance must be made for the further swelling of the fruit. While the fruit is swelling plenty of water at the root_is necessary, also the application of weak liquid manure. This must be attended to regularly, for if the bed gets dry and then large quantities of water are given, the fruit will probably crack. As the ripening stage approaches more ventilation will be needed, and a little air left on all night so that the flavour of the fruit may be enriched. At this .^■^~''~ ' ^ stage the atmosphere of the house * may be kept drier, and the supply c f water to the roots gradually diminished. When the fruit is cut, the old soil can be cleared out and the house cleansed. A fresh bed may then be formed and planted with plants raised some weeks previously, and the same process repeated. The varieties in theacc^mpanying illustration are Sutton's Triumph, Hero of Lockioge, and Ringleader, which for general purposes are ex- cellent in every way. W. Miles Caversham Park Gardens. MELON HOUSE AT CAVERSHAM PARK GARDENS, READING. CARNATION MRS. L. E. BEST. Miss Mary Best, Abbott's Ann, Andover, writes : "I am sending a photograph of a scarlet self Car- nation Mrs. L E. Best, raised by Miss E. Best. It was given a first- class certificate at the National Carnation and Picotee Society's Show at the Horticultural Septembek 1, 1906.] THE GARDEN. 103 Hall, ViDcent Square, in 1904. It is a beautiful bright scarlet flower, does not burst, of excellent shape, and with very firm petals." COLOURED PLATE. PLATE 1306. ENGLISH RAISED WINTER-FLOWER- ING CARNATIONS. A FTER hearing so much of the /\ American varieties it is satisfac- / \ tory to find that / % English raisers are 1 M. also coming to the front with a similar race. Several growers are now cross-breeding the American varieties with some of the best English sorts. Britannia, shown in the coloured plate, is certainly one of the best scarlets we have ; it was raised by Mr. A. Smith, Enfield High- way, who makes Carnations a speciality, and has raised several other good sorts. I first saw Britannia last autumn, and have seen it at intervals since. From the same batch of plants an unbroken supply of blooms was maintained to the end oi May. It received an award of merit from the Royal Horti- cultural Society and also from the Royal Botanic Society. Other varieties of Mr. Smith's raising are : Oriflimme, buff ground flaked with crimson ; Princess Victoria, a pretty , shade of pink ; Coronation, rose pink ; and Progress, cerise pink ; all very large flowers on stiff stems which stand up well. Mr. H. Elliott of Hassocks, Sussex, is another successful raiser. His Elliott's Queen is a very fine variety, also H. Elliott, a pretty shade of rose pink. These have gained awards of merit from the Royal Horticultural Society. Several other growers are now working on the American varieties, and we may expect to see other good things. I find some of the older English varieties are well grown. W. Robinson, Pride of Ex- mouth, blush pink, Mrs. Burnett, of a similar shade, and Mrs. S. J. Brooks, white, are also favourites. Since so great an interest has been created useful flowers, more note has been taken of the cultural conditions under which they can be most successfully grown. Cultivation. In the first place, it is necessary to have a light airy structure to grow them in. It would be impossible to do so in the heavy- barred, old-fashioned glass houses, as light and air are essential. While plenty of air is necessary, cold draughts must be avoided No plants succeed well in a draughty position. A moist bottom with a free circula- tion of air above is essential, or they may be grown on an open stage, but there should be moisture beneath. I have referred to the house first, as it is useless to make a start unless suitable accommodation can be given. The next matter is to start with clean, healthy stock. It will be more satisfactory to pay treble the price for strong, healthy plants, and those who already have a stock in hand should be careful to select the strongest for propagating from. Those who grow Carna- tions largely for cut flowers have a chance of selecting for stock, and where this is done these THE SELF CARNATION MBS. L. B. BEST. carefully varieties may be improved, while they are sure to deteriorate if propagated from weak or unhealthy plants. Those who want to propagate should set aside sufficient plants for the purpose, selecting the strongest ; and if, as there frequently is, a plant which has flowers of a clearer colour or any other slight improvement, it should be marked and the stock from it kept separate. English growers have been inclined to confine their plants to small pots. It is a matter which requires some consideration, for it is possible to get the growth too coarse. The very fleshy sorts will only give ill -formed flowers. Various composts for potting may be used with satisfactory results. The compost I have succeeded best with has been good fibrous loam with the addition of stable manure, some bone-meal, and if the loam has been heavy some sand added. In potting make the soil fairly firm, taking care that it is equally so from bottom to top. I have frequently found when plants have not suc- ceeded that the soil has been very firm at the top and loose beneath. Before potting the plants should be examined, and any that are dry should be watered and allowed to stand a short time before being re- potted. This is a most im- portant point, for if the ball is dry the new soil may get thoroughly soaked without penetrating the ball in the centre. The condition of the compost is another matter. If too wet it will go too close when pressed, and on the other hand, when very dry, it will be difficult to get the water to penetrate after it is pressed firm. The best test of condition is to press a handful together, and if it holds well, and when dropped divides easily, it will be in the right condition. I would add that it is better to have it a little too dry than too moist. The plants should be potted on before they get stunted or pot bound. During the sum- mer they do better in the open where they are fully ex- posed, but should be removed to the house before the heavy autumn rains, or even during the summer it is better to be able to protect them in case of heavy rains. All insect pests must be exterminated as soon as they appear. If frequently syringed with clear soot water it may keep them entirely free. The soot water should be made some time before it is required for use, and allowed to settle down so that it can be used in quite a clear state. Always apply in the evening after the sun has lost its power. After the plants are housed in the autumn, if the weather continues bright and dry, the syringe may be used freely. Always give plenty of top air. Carnations cannot be forced into flower, and many fail through keeping them too warm and close. The flowering time will depend upon when the plants are stopped, and the different sorts vary. Those stopped in June will generally come in about October. Some sorts may be much quicker, and others much longer, and the weather of course makes a con- siderable difference. Much depends upon careful and regular attention, and it is on this account that those who give their whole time to their culture succeed better than others who have many other things to take a share of their attention. It is quite posdble, however, for a few to be grown well, but they must not be neglected. A. HEMSLEy, 104 THE GARDEN [SkptbMber 1, 1906. G^RT>ENING FOR BEGINNERS. Cf-ING AND PLANTING VIOLET PLANTS IN FRAMES— In many gardena ihe growing of Violets in frames throughout the winter is one of the most important items of work daring that season. But very often inexperienced persons fail to grow the plants satisfactorily ; the latter are hardy, but when grown under glass the leaves and stems made are more tender than those produced in the open, and consequently they feel the efifeots of severe frosts and excessive moisture quickly. Plenty of air must be admitted both night and day while the weather is favourable ; to keep the lights closed, and so attempt to force the growth, would mean disaster. Wait piiiently for the crop of riowers after the plants are put in the frame, give air, keep all decayed leaver picked off regularly, and the surface of the soil clean and eweet. Do not tread upon the soil between the plants, as the latter will suffer much During foggy weather close the lights, bur. open again the moment the fog clears off. If the plants have been well grown in the open borders throughout the summer, there will be more chance of success with them in frames in winter. The /W«s(ro