UMA65/AMHERST ■iL 312066 0333 3081 4 va4 "V^j r -iK rr^' ■K ■ '^ -'1 >*>■! -^-^ ^^;. 15«C1> -&''^- vw^ -'C^/^ ^v*r- r^, Jf^OA. '«^< *-T^^t^- r^^^wT, ■/5 ^^^ i^*^ .v.v-v JS^«^ '-J** -f s;?^:^ LIBRARY OF THE MASSACHUSETTS AGRICULTURAL COLLEGE . Date. 7_rS-/y. » I [December 31, igio The Garden I r The Garden.] [December 31, 1910. George Paul, V.M.H., J.P., C.C. The Garden. [December 31. 1910. XN Illustrated Weekly Journal OF Horticulture in all its Branches. Founded by W. R«binson in 1871, VOL. LXXIV. CHRISTMAS, 1910. LOU\CDOU\(. Office: 20, TAVISTOCK STREET, COVENT GARDEN, V^.C. Published by "COUNTRY LIFE," Ltd., 20, Tavistock Street, Covent Garden, W.C, and by GEORGE NEWNES, Ltd., 3-12, Southampton Street, Strand. \'^ ^ The Garden.] [December 31, 1910. rs' u, TO GEORGE PAUL, V.M.H., J. P., C.C THE SEVENTY-FOURTH VOLUME OF "THE GARDEN Is dedicated. A MONG those who have devoted their lives to horticulture, Mr. George Paul occupies an honourable position, and / \ it is a pleasure to dedicate a volume of The Garden to one who has done so much for the advancement of / \ horticulture and Roses in particular. Born on December 8, 184 1, Mr. Paul was subsequently for two years a pupil at the well-known firm of Mr. Charles Fisher of Handsworth, whence he joined his father at Cheshunt on September 29, i860. In 1867 he succeeded his father as head of the business at Cheshunt, a position he has retained until the present day. As a raiser of new Roses Mr. Paul has done good work, Duke of Edinburgh, Lord Clyde, Sultan of Zanzibar, the first Hybrid Tea (Cheshunt Hybrid) and S. Reynolds Hole being a few that owe their existence to his efforts. He was one of the founders of the National Rose Society, and has from its inception until the present time occupied a position on the committee of that society. Mr, Paul also took a prominent part in the resuscitation of the Royal Horticultural Society, joining the Council when it left South Kensington and secured a temporary home in the London Scottish Drill Hall, and^e also assisted in organising the first Temple Show. As an exhibitor and judge he has from i85i up till the present year taken a foremost place at the leading shows throughout the country and superintended the magnificent groups shown by the firm at the Temple, Holland House, and National Rose Society's shows. During such a long and distingtiished career Mr. Paul has known many famous men in the horticultural world, among them being Dr. Lindley, Sir Joseph Paxton, Dean Hole, Mr. Marnock, the Rev. Joshua Dix, Mr. Gibson of Battersea Park, and most of the leading nurserymen of two or three generations. The advance that has been made in horticulture during Mr. Paul's life is very great indeed, and he has seen the development of the Hybrid Tea, Polyantha and wichuraiana Roses. He remembers the growth of the florist's Begonias and Gladioli, having numbered among his friends M. Souchet, the founder of the modern Gladiolus, and Mr. John Laing of Forest Hill, the developer of the first-named flower. Mr. Paul acted as one of the jurors at the Universal Exlubition in Paris in 1889; at the Paris Quinquennial Exhibitions of 1905 and 1910 ; and at the great Ghent Exhibition of 1908. Since The Garden was founded in 1871 Mr. Paul has contributed articles from time to time, especially in his younger days. He was one of the first to have the Victoria Medal of Honour in Horticulture bestowed upon him, an honour that was well deserved. In addition to his work in the interests of horticulture. Mr. Paul has for many years taken an active part in civic affairs, has long been a Justice of the Peace for Hertfordshire and senior member for Cheshunt on the Hertfordshire County Council, and since its commencement he has been a member of the Educational Committee of that body. In the latter capacity Mr. Paul's love of gardening has induced him to take a prominent part in the formation of school gardens throughout the county. We dedicate this volume to one who has devoted his whole life to the noble art of gardening, and hope that he may for many years be spared to continue the good and useful work that he has so willingly undertaken. Vol. I.XXIV.] The Garden." December 31, 1910. INDEX. Abelia florlbunda, 363 Abies ftrma, 26 Acacias, 243 Achilleas, 254 Actinotis Helianthii, 633 Adenostyles albida, 622 Agapanthuses, treatment of, 604 Ageratum, treatment of, 566 Allamanda y;randiflorn, 472 Allotment tiowera, 447 Alpine flowers under glass, 149, 174. 177, 181, 198, 223, 238 ; plants in window- boxes, 577 American blight or woolly aphis, 572, 584 Anchiisa italica Dropmore variety, 278 Anemone bianda, 186 ; nemorosa AUenii, 247 Anemones, alpine, 138 Angaloa Cliftonii, 70 Annual flowers, a border of. 114 Annuals, 211 ; climbing, 161 ; for autumn h; sowmg, 457 ; sweet-scented, 121 Antholyza paniculata major, 597 Apple Ard-Caim Russet, 578. 585 ; Charles Ross, 4 ; Chelmsford Wonder, 596 ; Flower of Kent. 266 ; Lane's Prince Albert, 646 ; Mere du Manage, 646 ; Red Victoria, 479 ; Rev. W. Wilks, 479 ; Round Winter Nonsuch, 497 ; scab disease, 484 ; tree diseased, 12 ; trees cankered, 491 ; twigs diseased, 108 ; Wagener, 210 ; William Crump, 46 Apples, gatheruig and keeping, 551 ; late dessert and culinary, 152 ; spotted, 12 ; the Crab, 267 Apricot and its culture, 496, 524 Arabis albida in the rock garden, 621 Arctotis grandirtora, 459, 495 Arenaria balearica, 266 ; montana, 302 Arum Lilies, 417, 477 Ascot garden, plants in an, 450 Asparagus beds, 234, 338, 536 ; how to prepare, 608 Aspidium angulare proliferum, 561 Association, Metropolitan Public Gardens, 161 Aster ericoides Perfection, 531 ; Xovelty, 555 ; Peggy Ballard, 505 Astilbe Arendsii Salmon Queen, 382 ; Venus, 382 Astilbes, 233 Auricula Canary Bird, 247 ; Dorothy Cutts, 247 : Mai, 247 ; Phyllis Douglas, 194 ; revival of the, 237 ; Roxburgh, 218 ; Victor, 218 Australian plant, an interesting, 633 Azaleas. 211, 251, 477 ; hardy, 563 B. Barr, Peter, Memorial, 410 Beans, Broad, 140 ; cultm-e of Runner, 190 ; Dwarf French, 240 ; French Climbing, 270 ; staking Runner, 304 ; trials of Riinner, 614 Bedding plants, 542 ; suggestions for, 214 Beetroots, lifting and storing, 516 Begonia fuchsioides, 307 ; Gloire de Lorraine, 103, 175 ; Mrs. W. L. Ainslie, 354; Rochfordii, 626 ; Rose Queen, 274 Begonias, transplanting seedling, 105 ; tuberous, 131. 269, 489 ; tuberous- rooted, 126 ; winter-flowering, 561 Berberis coccinea, 574 Berried plants in the greenliouse, 609 Bifreuaria bicornaria, 274 ■ Blackberries for bottling, 606 Blackthorn, double-flowered. 203 Blanching Leeks and Celery, 440 Blue border, plants for a, 531 Bog garden, 245 ; and its formation, 569 Boltonia asteroides, 438 590 94 ' 34, 160 46 ■ 206 Books— " Algeria, Flora of," 47 " Alpine Flowers and Rock Garden,' Booklets, some dainty, 182 Catalogue, an instructive. 10 " Charm of Gardens," 590 " Chrysanthemums, The Culture of, " Code School Garden and Nature-book 590 " Dalfodils," 554 " Fern Gazette. The British " Garden Annual." 34 " Garden Fayre. The," 94 "Garden Planning," 626 " Gardens of Delight." 147 " Horticultural Directory for 1910 " House and Garden," 383 " Ideal Garden, The," 206 " Lawns," 84 " Notes for Teachers, Descriptive,' " Orchids," 590 "Orchids for Everyone," 626 " Rock and Water Gardens," 283 " Root and Stem Vegetables," 554 " Rosa, Tlie Genus," 3S2 " Itoses, A Shillmg Book on," 206 " Roses of the Old and New Worlds," 283 " Royal Horticultural Society's Classified List of Daffodil Names. 1910," 590 " Sweet Pea Note-book," 590 " Sweet Peas, A Book About," 34 " Sweet Peas, All About," 34 '* Vegetables and Flowers from Seeds and Roots," 170 " Wall Pictures, Longman's," 94 " Wood and Garden," 383 Border, blue flowers for, 134 ; plants, 150 Bougainvfllca dropping foliage, 384 Bo u gain vil leas and their culture, 17. 38 Bouvardias, 127, 215, 472 Box edging, how to plant, 576, 607 Brasso-Cattleya WellesleyEe, 94 Briars, Hybrid Sweet, 315 British Fern Society, 410 ; fruit show, 521 Broccoli, 187 ; a useful early, 128 ; in spring, 270 Brussels Sprouts, 157 ; and Cauliflowers, 118; for winter and spring, 598; planting, 289 Bryonia dioica. 129 BuddleLa variabilis gigantea, 454 ; pruning, 169 Bulbs in fibre, 514 ; In pots, 441 ; lifting, 342; planting, 517 Carnation (Jueen Mary. 306 ; Regina, Cotoneaster rotundifolia, 611 555; R. F. Felton, 182; Rex, 638 ; Couve Tronchuda or Portugal Cabbage, 543 Scarlet (How, 531 ; Shasta, 531 ; the Cowslip, the Jerusalem. 213 White Mal- 183; Perpetual-flowering, 581, 606 ; House, 531 Carnations, 217 ; border, 52, 625 maison. 388 ; seedlings lailing. Tree, 257 Carnivorous plants, two interesting, 646 Carrots, how to thin, 304 ; protecting autumn-sown, 599 ; winter and spring, 400 Catalpa and climbing Rose, 358 ; nearly dead, 355 Catasetum flmbriatum aureum, 531 Cattleya Adula, 479 ; Vale Bridge variety, 454 ; Artemis. 382 ; Basil, 531 ; dietrichiana, 354 ; Duce magniflca, Crab Apple John Downie, 482 Crab, the Siberian, 3 Cratajgus Pyracantha Lelandii, 98 Crinura purpurasceus, 94, 112, 514 Crinums. 112, 160 Crocus Sieberi versicolor, 174 ; the fasci- nation of the, 113, 129, 141, 153, 165 177 189. 201, 213 Crocuses, garden. 496 Croton Golden Ring Lynwood variety, 555 Cucumbers, a flne crop of, 424 ; in a frame, 133 ; in winter, 577 ; Ridge, 244 Currants, big-bud in Black, 168 Custard Marrows. 220 Cyananthus lobatus, 562 505 ; Dusseldorfei Undine Westonbirt Cyanide of potassium, fumigating with, 86 variety, 247 ; hardyana Holford's i Cyclamen, 47 ; Coum album, 379 ; from variety, 454 ; Iris King Edward VII., ' Epsom, 158 478 ; lawrenceana Mary Regina, 273 ; Cydonia japonica, pruning. 295 Lengae, 505 ; lucida, 602 ; Mendelii Cymbidium lowgrinum Rosslyn variety, King George, 354 ; Pearl McBean, 247 ; i 146 Princess Victoria, 273 ; Queen Maud, ' Cypripedium Alabaster magnificura, 22 ; 273=; Stuart Low, 354; Miranda I Angela, 479 ; Atlas, 46 ; Bantam, 46 Winningstadt, 460 382 ; Savoy, 400 ; \iolacea, Cabbage, spring. 429 Cabbages for spring transplanting, 204 Cacti, 276 ; plague in Queensland, 197 Ccesalpinia Gilliesii, 435 Calandrinias, 113 Calanthe Cooksoniae giganteum, 578 crocata, 182 ; densiflora, 554 Calceolaria integrifolia, 50, 75 ; 102. 122 Calendula Sulphur (Jueen. 382 Callicarpa purpurea, 623 Camellia not flowering, 147 Campanula, a well-grown, 548 ; 562 ; pyramidalis alba, 645 ; 402 Cannas. 99, 108 ; from seed, 157 greenhouse, 301 Capsicums, 127 Carnation Edith Waters, 306 ; Day, 293, 312 ; Forester, 406 Alington, 505, 638 ; Miss Tatton, 119 :\lrs. C. F. Raphael, 247 ; Mrs. C. W! Ward, 578 ; Mrs. Crook, 638 ; Mrs. Everard Martin-Smith, 306 ; Mrs. J. A. Reynolds, 406 ; Mrs. Robert Berkeley, 382 : Mrs. T. E. Henwood, 402 Westonbirt variety, 70 ; MossIeb Magali Sander, 274 ; o*brieniana alba, 382 ; peroivaliana Westonbirt variety, 94 ; Robert de Wavrin Westonbirt variety, 182 ; Schroder^ The Prince, 118 ; Trianae Magali Sander, 70 ; Warsce- wiczii Low's variety, 382 ; Othello, 406 Cauliflowers, 232 Ceanothus divaricatus, 423 ; thyrsiflorus, 303 : veitchianus dying, 342 Celeriac, 223 Celery fafling, 135 ; how to grow, 109 ; trenches, 180 ' Cestrums, 264 Cherries, Morello, 337 ; grafting, 35 Cherry, a beautiful flowering, 229 I Chestnut shoot, an interesting, 181 Chestnuts, Spanish, decaying, 207 Chicory. 300 Clumonanthus fragrans, 66 Choisya ternata, 411 Christmas Roses. 453, 477, 637 Chrysanthemum Betty Spark, 505 ; Holli- cot Golden, 505 ; Lady B'ume'is, 626 ; Mrs. Gilbert Drabble, 626; Pearl White, 505; White, 478 ; Yellow, 478; inodorum, 473 ; maximum, 364 ; plant groups, 582 Chrysanthemums, 43, 66, 88, 106, 353, 404, 459, 486, 542 ; failing, 566 ; feed- ing, 417 ; new, 531, 542, 555, 578, 602 ; single, 582, 606, 619 ; potting, 263 ; stock plants after flowering, 600 ; trial ot I single. 138 I Cineraria Feltham Beauty, 194 I Cinerarias, 215 ; at Farnham Royal, 210 I Clarldas as greenhouse plants, 451 I Clay banks, the planting of. 409 I Clematis alpina, 338 ; indivisa, 276 ; in I New Zealand, 527 ; in open ground, I 19 ; layering. 352 ; montana, new varieties of, 119 I Clianthus Dampleri, 207 ; puniceus albus, , 363 I Clitls. planting, by the sea, 487 : Cli\ia King George, 306 I Ccelogyne cristata, 60 , Colchicura speciosum album, 525 j Coleus, propagating, 104 in the ■ Coleworts. 349 I Collinsia bicolor, 155 Colour descriptions of flowers, 310 ; in the autumn garden, 533, 559 Columnca magniflca, 42 Cnlutea longialata, 527 Convolviflus mauretanirns, 549 Corn Salad in winter. 512 , Corydalis bulbosa fialleri, 379 ; solida, 226 1 Cosmos Rose Queen, 332 Britannia, 554 ; Charlesworthii Teme- raire, 602 ; Curtisii Sander's variety, 354'; Dante rotundiflorum, 650 ; Gaston Bultel, 650 ; how to repot a, 648 ; lolanthe, 602, 609 ; King George V., 530 ; leeanum Excelsior, 94 ; Lord Wolmer, 71 ; Princess May, 554 ; Reginald Young, 554 ; Shogun, 505 ; Waterloo, 629 Cytisus Dallimorei, 274, 291 Fire Dome, notes, 89, lanata Vidam: Empire Lady Daffodil and Tulip notes. 164 ; 190 ; in a tea-pot, 245 ; 101, 114, 130. 154, 225, 258, 383, 412, 425, 449 ; from New South Wales, 406, 644 ; of the future, 252 ; one aspect of the, 221 ; season, the, 193 Daffodils, 411 ; and Tulips at Vincent Square, 142 ; at Birmingham show, 241 ; at Vincent Square, 195, 202 ; for a border, 295 ; for rough grass, 330 ; Royal Horticultural Society's classifica- tion of, 601, 606, 619 Dahlia Flagstaff, 505 ; Orange Fire King, 274 ; the development of the, 481 Dahlias, new, 454, 478 ; trials of, 490 Daisies, Barberton, 31 Daisy, Alice. 337 Daphne Mezereum and its culture, 7 Mezereum Paul's White, 255 Dean, Mr. Alexander, V.M.H., 264 Delphinium Belladona semi-plena, 354 ; Lamartinii, 354 ; Purple Velvet, 330 ; Theodora, 330 Delphiniums, three good, 351 Dendrobium Duchess of Albany, 94 ; -Mrs. Fenton Arnton, 118; Phaljenopsis schroderiana album Sander's variety, 22 Dianthus petrseus. 155 ; graniticus, 399 Digging competitions, 211 ; and trenching, 635 Disa Lacera multiflda, 118 Disanthus cercidifolia, 574 Draba ciliata. 275 Dracaena australis, 358 Dry soils, plants for, 90 ; walls in winter, 610 Edgings, Box and other, 87 Endive, Batavian i-nd other, 617 Epi-Cattleya Ncbo. 146 Ererauri. bed of, 314 Erlangea tomentosa, 46 Escallonia langlcyensis. 351 ; philippiana. 377 345«7 INDEX. \^\The Garden," December 31, igio. li^schscboltzia Mikado, 622 Eucalypti in Britain, 250 Eucalyptus Gunnii, 250, 2S6, 311 ; piilvenilenta, 551 ; seedlings, 506 Eucharis-gTOWing, 342 Eupatoriums," 579 Euphorbia Characias, 87, 138 ; Wulfenii, 39. G2, 74, 87 Exhibition, the proposed International Horticultural, 185; schedule of, 618 Fabiana irabricata, 363 Fence, plants for a rustic, 591 Fern spores, longevity of, 38, 63 Ferns, a group of, 258 ; Curly, 168 ; Filmv. 228 ; hardy, 254 ; Hart's- tongue, 390 Figs, a word about, 403, 410 ; against walls, 385 Finocchio or Florence Fennel, S3 Flower beds, 231 ; raising soil of, 558, 582 ; exhibitions, present-day. 173 Flowers, fruits and veaetables for ex- hibition, 285 ; seasonable work among, 633 ; the Queen of, 493 ; winter colours, 13, 50 Forestry Museum at Kew, 286 Forget-me-nots, 392 Foxgloves, self-sown, 435 Frames, ventUating, 93 ; and greenhouses, ventilating, 624 Francoa ramosa, 206 Freesias, culture of. 464 French gardening, 15, 74, 160 Fritillaria imperialis chitralensis. 146 Fruit, gathering, 465 ; planting, 1 ; trees, gross growth in, 472 ; and bushes for small gardens. 125; grafting, 115; grease- ban ding, 488; lifting and planting, 81 ; on lawns, 620 ; planting, 552 ; pruning and training, 44; root-pruning, 553 ; washing and spraying, 608 Fruits, some new, 426 Fuchsia Syhia, 382 Fuchsias as pillar plants, 206 ; in winter, 517 Fungi, edible and poisonous 286 Fungus, a remarkable, 447 Garden, a deserted, 327 Geraniums, scented-leaved, 392 Gerberas, growing. 368 Gesnera Orange King, 531 Gesneras and their culture, 389 Gladioli, planting, 143 Gladiolus Europa, 430 ; failing, 442 ; Grafin Degenfeld, 430 ; Karl Luz, 430 ; King Edward VII., 354 ; Le I-rnia, 454 ; primulinus, 430 ; Kathlinc, 478 ; Safrano, 454 Glamis Castle, autumn garden at, 586 Gloxinias, 205 ; in a cool place, 14 Goldfish, disease in. 175 Gooseberries and Currants as cordons, 179, 560 ; on trellises, 28 ; protecting, 70 ; pruning, 595 Gourds, ornamental, 513 Grape Gros Guillaume, 530, 546, 571 ; Vine, summer ailments of, 297 Grapes, berries scalding. 453 ; colouring, 341 ; how to grow in ordinary garden soil, 4, 43, 62 ; thinning, 281 * ' Greek Lavender," 14, 26 Greenhouse shelves, plants for, 348 Grevillea alpina, 150 Grieve, Mr. James, 29 Gypsophila carminea, 382 H. Hardy plants, interesting, 343 Heath garden in midwinter, 122 Heaths, propagating, 207 ; the hardv, 19 Hedychimn, the. 389 Heimia myrtifolia, 248 Helianthemums, 596 Heligan Gardens, Cornwall. 300 Heiiotropium Favourite, 306 Heracleum mantegazzianum. 526 Herbaceous border, 589 ; borders, 239, 578 ; plants, 405 Herbs, 244 ; planting, 256 Hidalgoa Wercklei, 334 Hillhouse, the late Professor, 99 Hippeastrum Calypso, 218 ; Cardinal Wolsey, 218 ; Gereant, 218 Hippeastrums, potting, 194 " Holland in Ireland," 478 Hollies, 269 Hollyhocks at Shrewsbury, 458 ; fungus- proof, 495, 535, 682 Horticulture in Scotland, 123, 223 ; in 1759 and now, 123 Horticultural societies, the value of, 445 Hot-beds, making, 92 Houlletia Sanderi. 182 Hmnea elegans, 42, 63 Hyacinth, revival oE the, 135 Hyacinths, how to pot, 528 Hydrangea Hortensia, 257 ; Mrae. Emilie Mouilliere, 247 ; Ornament, 247 Hydrangeas, how to propagate, 340 ; taking cuttings of, 260 Hypericum patulum, 620 Ideal home exhibition, 208 Itnpatiens Holstii, 17 Indoor decoration, Uowering plants for, 290 Inoculation of garden crops, 174 Insect friends and foes, 84 ; pests on plants and trees, 637 ' Institution, Gardeners' lloyal Benevolent, 49 International Horticultural Exhibition, 545, 617 Iris alata,645 ; albo purpurea colchesterense. 330 ; Fulvala, 330 ; hybrida Isoline, 306 ; Italia, 306 ; Ka;mpferi. 368 ; Pavonia, 473 ; Spanish, in a Highgate garden, 633 ; stylosa, 122 ; failing to flower, 110, 150, 174 ; the Japanese, on a liill- top, 364 ; tingitana, 223, 350 IrisL'S. 321 ; a garden of, 363 ; about, 307 ; Bearded, 438 ; Flag, 257 ; in bowls, 591 ; two new, 337 Ivy, planting and increasing, 20 Japan-British Exhibition, flowers at, 373 Japanese Wineberry, 207 K. Kalanchoe kewense Excelsior, 330 Kalanchoes and their culture, 361 Kales, the newer, for winter and spring Kerria japonica, 574 King Edward VII., the late, 237 Kirengeshoma palmata, 573, 601 Krelage, Mr. Ernest H., 212 Lachenalias, 442 Laelia de Gustcana Thompsonii, 505 Lselio-Cattleya Golden Oriole tia,rina, 454 ; Berthe Foumier magnifica, 478 ; Endora Mark Hambourg, 273 ; Firminii, 22 ; Golden Oriole superba, 530 ; Goldfinch Westonbirt variety, 146 ; kiminosa magnifica, 274 ; Olivia, 578 ; Ortrude magnifica, 531 ; Pauline, 650 : Trimyra, 1S2 Lapagerias, 141 ; not flowering, 419 Lawns, mowing. 257 Leaf-mining grub, fumigating for, 150. 175 Leeks, 217 LicoAL Points— Gardener's notice, 420 Landlord and tenant, 2]S Master and servant: Notice, 319 Trees, adjoining owners', 10 Valuation. 10 Leggy plants, treatment of, 56 Leptosiphon hybridus, 437 Lettuce Green's, Favoimte, 406 ; Heart- well and Supreme, 406 ; Icehead, 406 ; Stag*s-hom, 449 ; Sutton's Favourite, 437 ; White Favourite, 406 Lettuces, 268 ; for summer use, 140 ; in hot weather, 279 Leucojum, 101 Ligustrura Henryii, 631 Lilac, a hedge of, 7 Lilies failing, 455 ; hardy, 23 ; in pots. 192 ; late* flowering, 466 Lilium auratura, 192 ; giganteum, 142, 605 ; philadelphicum, 587 ; tigrinum, bulblets of, 603 Liliums in pots, 316 ; under glass, 169 Lily of the Valley as a pot plant, 28 Lily, the Madonna, 329, 453, 474 Lime in the soil, 375 Linaria bipartita alba, 203 Linum alpinum, 474 Liverpool Botanic Gardens, 336 Lobelia cardinalis, 523 ; Gloire de St. Anne's, 505 ; winter treatment of, 541 ; propagating, 132 ; Sam Barlow, 454 Loganberry, how to prune the, 452 London County Council Parks oflficer, 557, 570, 594 Lonicera hildebrandiana, 490 ; pileata, 194 Lowberry, treatment of the, 580 Luculia gratlssima, 361 Lupine failing. 330 Lycaste peruviana, 274 ; Skinneri arme- niaca, 46 ; Helleraen's variety, 194 Lychnis, increasing and growing the, 144 Macleania insignis, 247 Magnolia fuscata, 303 ; Watsonii not Howering, 369 Magnolias dying, 183 Marguerite, culture of the, 636 Manures, li(iuid, 441 Maples, Japanese, 100 Marguerite Mrs. F. Sander, 274 Mealy bug on Vines. 86 Melon Early Favourite, 430 ; Golden Beauty, 454, 524 ; growing, 89 Melons, how to grow early, 4 ; late, 439 Mendel's Law, 445 Mertensia echioides elongata, 306 Mice, field, destroying, 250, 322 Michaelmas Daisies and their culture, 538 Mill-race changed into a rock garden, 415 Miltonia bleuana Hessle variety, 247, 277 ; Phalaenopsis McEean's variety. 218 ; vcxillaria lambeauiana, 354 ; Memorla Baron Schroder, 273; SnowUake, 306; Warscewiczij leucochlia, 650 Mint in boxes, 91 Moles, catching, 151 Montbretias. 529 Montanoa mollissima, 623 Morisia hypogoca, 379 Mushrooms, 296 ; how to grow clean, 601 Myosotis, 313 N. Narcissi, forced, 163 ; forcing, 458 ; some new, 475 ; three new, 379 Narcissus Apricot Queen, 226 ; Blackweli, 130 ; Colleen, 247 ; Cooksonias. 247 ; Piretail, 462 ; Henry Irving, 174 ; Johnstonii King and Queen of Spain, 298 ; Poeticus going blind, 162 ; Poeticus Matthew Arnold. 213 ; Poeticus plenus, 275 Nasturtium. Peruvian, 55, 98 National Ctirysanthemum Society's con- ference, 628 National Hardy Plant Society, 434, 470 National Rose Society's annual meeting, 617 National Sweet Pea Society's exhibition, a criticism of, 374 ; trials, 357 National Vegetable Society, 436, 493, 507, 618 Nectarine Humboldt, 403, 446 Nemesias and their culture, 130 Ncmophila insignis, 367 Nepenthes nobilts, 555 Nepeta Mussinu, 413, 471, 534. 558 Nerine elegantissima Mansell's seedling, 555 Neviusia alabamensis, 203 New plants, 22. 46, 70, 94, 118, 146, 182, 194, 218, 247, 273, 306, 330, 354, 382, 406. 430, 454, 478, 505, 531, 554, 578, 602 Newnes, Sir George, Bart., death of, 298 Nitrate of soda, how to use, 529 Notospartium Carmichaelae, 143, 338 Nursery Notes — G. Bunvard and Co.. 548 Ker and Sons, 638 Laxton Brothers, 573 Pennell and Sons, 566 R. Veitch and Sons, 530 Stuart Low and Co., 536 Oak, olil. in Kvre Park. 100 Odontioda Bradshawiae Westonbirt variety, 554 ; Cecilia, 479 ; Charles worth ii Theodora, 247 ; gattonensLs, 306 ; Goodsonise, 194 ; keighleyensis Fowler's varietv, 22 ; King George V., 273 ; lloyal Gem, 273 ; St. Fuscien Im- perator, 306 ; VuylstekesD Walton Grange variety, 330 OdontoglossuM ardentissimum Norman Cookson, 194 ; arnoidianum, 218 ; Black Prince, 118; Ceras, IIS ; Ceres Goodson's varietv, 194; magniflcum, 650 ; Plump- ton Hall variety, 626 ; Circe, 554 ; crispum Magnum Bonuni, 247 ; St. Fuscien, 218 ; eximium Emperor, 274 ; eximium E. C. Uogerson, 118 ; Empress of India, 273 ; Gladys H. W. Cheal, 182 ; Memoria King Edward VII., 273; Pronierens, 273 ; regale rosefleldiense, 218 ; Rossianis rubens. 218, 238 ; Rouge Dragon, 626 ; splendens, 118, 141 ; thompsonianum Gatton Park variety, 1S2 Olearia macrodonta, 448 Oncidium Slantinii Lowii, 430; SamJcrac, 382 Onions, 429 ; bending down, 341 ; thin- ning, 328 ; transplanting, 204, 4S9 Opuntias, Spineless, 88 Orchard liouse, 227 Orchards, care and management of, 52, 83, 125, 18S Orchids, notes on : Cattleya, the labiata section of, 277 ; Dendrobiums, 128 ; Diaas, 572 ; Epidendrums, 487 Medusa's Head, 52 ; Miltonias, 348 ; Oncidiums, 400 ; soil for, 634 ; Zygo- petalura .Mackayii, 6 Osmunda palustris crispato-congesta, 247 Pteonies, herbaceous, 509, 546 ; Tree, position for, 23 Pceony, an old Tree, 398 Paint, use of green, 173 Palms failing, 543 Pansies, how to increase, 428 ; Tufted, io the rock garden, 18 Pansy blossoms, removing spent, 317 Parkinson, John, 288, 300 Parks, spring lessons from the, 197 Parsley, early, 40 Parsnips for flavour, 191 Paths, how to make garden, 85 ; slirubs for bordering, 134 Pea, Exhibition, 430 ; Hobday's Essex Wonder, 279 ; Magnum Bonum, 430 ; Moneymaker, 406 ; Prestige, 406 ; Prince of Peas, 406 ; Satisfaction, 430 ; Seed- ling No. 223, 479 ; the Shamrock, 625 ; Windsor Castle, 430 ; Yorkshire ITero 430 Peach trees dropping buds, 184 ; spring treatment of, 133 Peaches and Bananas, 427 ; and leaves dropping, 394 ; and Nectarines, 68 ; autumn treatment of, 463 ; in an un- heated greenhouse, 105 Pear tree, pruning, 32 Peas, Autocrat and Gladstone, 5S2 ; 1 early, for amateurs, 82 ; garden. 25 ; j late, 300 ; mildew on, 212 ; new varie- ties, 599 ; some good, 449 ; some good late, 620 ; Sugar, 83 ! Pelargonium White Queen, 306 : Pelargoniums, 375 ; in winter, 517 ; pot- I ting, 342 ; scented-leaved, 112 j Pentstemon Hartwegii, 2 ; Myddleton Gem, 55 I Pentstemons, 217 ; propagating, 476 I Perennials, border of, 10 ; how to increase hardy, 533 Perry, Mr. Amos, 224 I Pescatorea Camellosa, 382 ! Petunias, 347 ' Phaio-Calanthe Schroderae, 146 I Phaius Cooperi, 505 Phatfeuopsis casta superbissima, 194 Philesia buxifolia, 375 Phlox Canadian, Perry'-S variety, 231 ; Elizabeth Campbell, 454 ; Ellen Will- mott, 505 ; Frau Antonin Buckner, I 406 ; Phlox roemeriana, 2 Phloxes, herbaceous, 145 ; planting, 503 ; j some white, 394 I Pineapple Smooth Cayenne, 603 I Pines, destruction of, 325 Pinks on a dry wall, 486 ; propagating, 329 Plane tree disease, 262, 287 ; as a danger to health, 346 Planting North and South, 452, 495 ; season, hints for, 448 Plants and flowers, seasonable, 632 ; for carpet bedding. 11 ; interesting hardy 348 ; propagating, 116 Plum, the Myrobalan, 179 Plums, 53 Plungiug pot plants, 312 Poinsettias after flowering, 103 Poisonous plants, 199, 239, 250, 274 Polyanthus Ladham's Brilliant, 247 Polyanthuses, 5 ; and Primroses, how to increase, 380 ; from seed versus division, 18; late-sown, 253 ; Mr. J. Crook's, 262 Polypodium Schneideri, 17 ; vulgare, 46 ; carabricum, 71 Pot plants, soil for, 489 Potato and root crops of Great Britain, 618 ; Dalmeny Early, 479 ; degenera- tion of the, 334, 359 ; Den's Favourite, 406 ; disease, a little-knowh, 660 ; Faithlie, 406 ; is it degenerating ? 397 ; Selected Ashleaf, 406 ; Snowdrop, 16, 38 ; Walker's Seedling, 406 ; Webb's First Crop, 449 Potatoes, 64 ; artificial manure for, 160 ; earthing-up, 230, 262, 316 ; manures for, 95 ; seed, 636 ; some wonderful, 512 Potentilla, how to grow, 156 Poterium obtusatum, 434 Potting plants too deep, 317 Primroses and Polyanthuses, 199 ; doubles, reverting, 271, 293 The Garden," December 31, 1910.] INDEX. Primula I'orbosli, 361 ; ciliata General Stcwarl, 218 ; obconica, 179, 223 ; grandiMora, 200 ; pulvcrulcnta, 347, 386 ; sinensis, 124 ; Unique, 271 Primulas, Chinese, 19.i ; and Persian Cycla- mens, 97 ; seedling Chinese, 135 Pruning, ?*nmmer, 360, 364 Pt'-ii> :i>|uilinii. 30'> l'lihH<>n:u'i:i Dllinnalis, 213, 222, 250 Pyrithnnn Snuw White, 306 Qiu'en uf Autnnni. the, 557 tjuinee braneh for inspection, 143 ; tlie, 163 tjuinces, 186 KadisV.es (or winter, 461 Ramondia pyrenaica, 327 llununcvilus Evening Star, 306, 313 ; l.vallii, 379, 399, 435 Kaspberrics after fruiting, 412, 483 ; and lllacUberries for bottling, 671 ; pruning and planting, 8 ll-ispberry canea, thinning out, 523 Heading, "annual flowers at, 418 Ketinosporas, variation in, 331 Rhododendron Alice, 274 ; Juliana. 274 ; primulinum, 182 Rhododendrons, hardy, 291 ; uncommon, 345 Rhus typhina laciniata, 274 Robinia Kelseyii, 325, 306 Rock Cress, double-flowered, 230 Hock garden, 28, 210 ; a pretty, 350 and dry walls, 188 ; at Crowborough, 227 ; dwarf trees and shrubs for 611 ; Iberis and Sempcrvivuins in the, 573 Rockery and pond, 214 ; a tangled, 201 making a small, 491 Rockfoils, 55 Fujmneya Coulteri in winter, 407 Roof gardens, 166 Room plants, 180 Knot crops, 484 ; pruning, 463 Rosa bracteMa Maria Leonida, 315 ; Freda, 330 ; multiflora Flame, 382 ; pim- pinelliiolia, 598 ; rugosa, rare varieties of, 279 Rose armual, 209 ; Antoine Rivoire, 323 ; Austrian Copper, 167 ; beds, filling up gaps in, 176 ; Blush Rambler, 501 ; Climbing Leuchtstern, 42 ; common enemies of the, 502 ; Conrad F. Meyer, 5 ; DanfP, 497 ; Daphne, 454 ; Dorothy Perkins, 54 ; as a standard, 575 ; J.)uchess of We8tminster,1274 ; Entente Cordiale, 307 ; Excclsa, 274, 315 ; festival, a. 310 ; Frau Alfred Mauthner, 414 ; garden, 31, 64, 67, 90, 100, 116, 131, 146, 155, 167, 176, 194, 200, 214, 224, 229, 246, 255, 279, 289, 307, 316, 339, 349, 362, 378, 390, 401, 414, 426, 438, 451, 461, 485, 515, 524, 537, 650, 562, 675, 598, 609 ; a national, 494 ; by the sea, 485 ; plan of,'438 ; General Gallieni, 272 ; General Macarthur, 546 ; growing in West Indies, 609 ; near London, 40 ; Harry Kirk, 353 ; hedge, 391, 401 ; hedges, 498, 516, 637 ; heps on fruits, 353 ; Jessie, 155 ; jottings, 91 ; Juliet, 215, 354, 500 ; Lady Hillingdon, 147 ; Lena, 302 ; >Tar6chal Niel, 176 ; Mary Countess of Ilchester, 364 ; Minnehaha. 401 ; Mme. Edm6e Metz as a standard, 583 ; Mme.Tlantier, 439: Mrs. A. R. Waddell,-635 Rose .Mrs. F(j1c> llobbs. 364 ; .Mrs. Her- bert Stevens. 4S6. 506 ; Mrs. James Ferguson, 524 ; names, the spelling of, 123 ; notes from .\mcriea, 497 ; pergola, a, 391 ; pergola at Stratllclrtsayc Rectory, 662 ; " Rambler Trier, 255 ; R6n': Collctte, 451 ; show, the autumn, 469 ; sports, climbing, 272, 339 ; Tea Rambler, 414; the Altai, 494; the Lyon, 260 ; terms, explanation of, 159 ; wiehuraiana Diaboio, 391 ; Francois Foupard, 167 ; Leontine Gervais, 382 ; Rose Delight, 414 ; William -\llen Richardson, raiser of, 311 ; yellow, for heated greenhouse, 12 ; yellow Rambler, 11 Rosemary, 281 ; a veteran, 620 Roses, a chat about. 501 ; a plea for old, 500 ; after flowering, 316 ; an amateur's, in Ireland, 647 ; and caterpillars, 175 ; artiflcial manures for. 111 ; as coat flowers, 31 ; as pot plants, 622 ; at railway stations, 411 : .\ustralian analysis of, 194 ; Banksian, 315 ; best six for general use, 138 ; Boursault, 339 ; Christmas, 9, 23 ; crimson. 378 ; delicate, 1908-9, 299 ; disbudding, 292 ; fragrant, 71 ; for beds, 349 ; for market, 604 ; for new beds, 105 ; for potting up, 11 ; for table decoration, 511 ; for unsightly corners, 18 : Gardenia and Konigin Carola, 522 ; Hybrid Tea, as half- standards, 131 ; in cold greenhouse, 59 ; in pots, 246 ; mildew-proof, 167 ; Nabonnand's, 635 ; new, 505 ; new, for forcing. 598 ; new, of the year, 426, 461, 461, 471, 475, 485, 499, 516, 526. 537, 550, 562, 675, 585 ; on banks, 362 ; on walls, 229 : planting, 640 ; planting, under glass, 17 ; popular market, 5 ; protecting standard, 54 ; pruning, 100, 195 ; rambling types of, 499 ; scent of, 523, 533 ; single and semi-double, 623 ; selections of, 494 ; seven perfect, 401 ; single Irish, 117 ; some early, 294 ; some fragrant new, 622 ; standard, 215 ; standard, fi-om cuttings, 362 ; strong msus weak, 610 ; suggested exhibition of pot, 186 ; sweet-scented, 155. 470 ; Tea and Hybrid Tea, with erect blooms, 12 : m towns, 339 ; under glass, 647 ; weeping, 414 ; winter, for .market, 535 Rubbish, how to dispose of, 0 Sagittaria japonica flore-pleno, 67 Saintpaulia ionantha, 103 Salads, summer, 240 Salsify, 177 Salvias, 453 Sand, uses of, 665 Sarracenia Willmottae, 274 Saunders, O. S.. the late, 208 Saxifraga Boydii and its varieties, 141 ; Fortunei, 622 ; Milesii, 314 ; paradoxa, 462, 482, 510 ; pyramidalis, 266 ; scardiea obtusa, 147 Saxifragas, sunmier-flowering, 325 Scarborough Lily, 432 Schizanthns grandiflorus Veitch's strain, 247 ; seedlings, 529 School gardening, 387 Seilla italica. 278 Seorzonera. 177 Seed drills, art. of jnaking, 180 Seedlings lost through frost, 625 Senecio gl.astifolius variety, 382 Shallots, lifting and storing, 381 Shortia uniflora granditlora, 147 Shrewsbury Show. 421 Shrubbery^ current work in the, 611 Shrubs and plants, how to protect, from frost, 7 ; choice. 93 ; evergreen, for small gardens, 19 ; (or a north wall, 419 • for an island, 603 ; for forcmg, 593 ; for poaty soil, 395 ; for sandy river bank, 603 ; late-flowering, 433 ; planting evergreen, 661 ; pruning, 11, 100 ; summer-llowering, 309, 386 ; with colo\ired leaves, 376 Silver-leaf disease, 521, 559 Skinimia japonica, 229 Skinilnias, 95 Slugs, 444 . , ,,„ Smoke nuisance from bunimg leaves, 110 Snowdrop, Atkins's, 154 Snowdrops, raising from seed, 13i Sobralia (;harlesworthii, 273 ; Chftouie, 218 Society, National Vegetable, 313 Soil fertility, increasing, 458 ; productive- ness, 494 Solanunicrispum, 65 Solldaco spectabilis, 505 , Sophro-Cattleya Doris Cobb's variety, 5(8, Sophro-Lslio-Cattleya Altliea, 602 ; Hon. Mrs. Barbara Wilson. 194 Sparmannia africana, 302 Spart.ium jmiceum, 415 Spinach, how to grow, 171 ; summer, 281 ; winter, 584 Spirrca discolor, 40, 389 Spring flowers, 205 Stenahthium robustum. 513, 534 Stocks, a new race of, 293 Stokesia cyanea, 549 Stopping and repotting plants, 317 Stove plants, repottmg, 145 Strawberries, beds for, 353 ; Countess and Fillbasket, 483 ; in pots, 359 ; late, 439, 482 522 ; layering, 294, 312 ; watering, 265' , . ^. „„, Strawberrv. its culture ,"ind varieties, oi7 ; Mark Twain, 330 Suburban garden, a, 412 ; a border in, 366 ; notes from a, 416 Succulents, a group of, 206 Summer-house, a gorgeous, 610 Surrey garden, notes and queries from a, 266', 276 Swede, the garden, 128 Sweet Pea chat, 6, 30, 54, 76, 102, 130, 154 178, 201, 226, 253, 277, 302, 326, 35l' 378, 401, 424, 450, 473, 496, 526, 648, 673, 697, 621, 644 ; Eari Spencer, 382 ; Elfrida Pearson, 382 ; Etta Dyke with six flowers on a stem, 139 ; Evelyn Hemus, 38, 62, 86 ; fertilisation, 27, 31 ; flower sprays, length of, 386 ; Geor»e Baxter, 151 ; IrLs, 382 ; Ivanhoe, 330 •" Marjory Hemus, 306 ; Marion Cuthbertson, 382 ; -Mrs. Charies Foster, 77 ; Mrs. F. A. Wellesley, 382 ; Mrs. Hugh Uickson, 379 ; .National, Society's Annual, 73 ; a new, 103 ; Paradise Cerise, 300 ; Prince of Orange, 306 ; stem with six flowers, 162 ; Sun- proof Crimson, 330 Sweet Peas, a criticism, 398. 410, 422, 434, 446 458 ; .at Kelvedon, 460 ; at Temple Show, 278 ; at Wem, 82 ; best twelve, 107, 123, 151, 187 ; classification of, 518'; for garden decoration, 77 ; garden, 360 ; gathering, packing and exhibit- ing, 78 ; in the North, 63 ; germina- tion of, 77 ; planting out, 216 ; growing on flsh-netting, 79 ; raising, in boxes, 80 ; in shady places, 157 ; selecting, for exhibition, 367 ; Telemly, 251 ; three popular, 227 ; plants to use with, 201 Svdenham, Robert, a day with, 58 Symphoricarpus mollis, 531 Synthyris reniformis, 165 Syringa Bretschneideri, 314 Table decoration, a unique, 612 Tacsonias for the cool grcenhoufle, 685 Temple Show, new plants at the, 273 Thomson, David, the late, 174 Thuva gigantea, 65 Tomato Carter's Sunrise, 171 ; fruits in spring, 689 Tomatoes, 405 ; feeding, 388 ; new, 455 Town or street trees, 334 Trees and shrubs in suburban gardens, 322 ; planting, 11 ; lor towns, 286 Tropo!olum tuberosum, 55, 150 ; planting, 193 Tulip, the May-Bowcring, 261 Tulipa kaufmanniana aurea, 241 Tulips at the Temple Show, 294 ; notes on, 526, 642 ; storing, 383 Turnip Dobbie's Golden Ball, 212 ; flea bi^etle, 300 Turniiis, 313 ; eariy, 83, 140 ; hints on growing, 341 ; thinning, 329 ; ycllow- lleahed, 424 V4nda cicrulea Blue Beard, 626 ; San- dera;, 602 ; \\ estonbirt variety, 430 Vegetable Marrows, 167, 280; good, •17+ Vegetables, preserved, 560 ; some good winter, 16 ; the cooking of, 694 Veitch, Mr. P. C. M., 632 Ventilating greenhouses and frames, 613 Viburnum Henryii, 505 Vine rods, cleaning, 625 ; summer ailments of the, 298, 324 ; the Kippen, 582 Vinery, the amateur's, 70 Vines, 429 ; making a border for, 567 •,. mildew on, 417 ; planting young. 111, 160 Viola cornuta purpurea, 110 Violet La France, 181 Violets, 381 ; in frames, 613 ; not doing well, 59 ; some beautiful, 255 Violettas, the, 303 W. Walks, planting paved, 26 Wall trees and hardy climbers, 612 Wallflowers, 242 Walls, dry, in winter, 610 Wasps and Cotoneaster, 274, 311 Water, garden, a, 267 ; Lilies, 249 ; plants manuring, 462 Watering plants, 305 ■Weeds, some desirable, 374 Willow, a little-known, 621 Window-boxes, 269 Winter flowers, 601 Wireworm and Tomatoes, 296 Wistaria multijuga, 551 Wistarias, unusual methods of growmg, 574 Witsenia corymbosa, 2 Woburn experiments, 333 Woodl.and flowers in autumn, 469 Woodlice, 207 Y. Yew, Holly and P.eech hedges, 7 Yucca recurvifolia, 18 /.ygo-Colax Charleswortliii rubida, 22. INDEX. [" The Garden," December 31, 1910. ILLUSTRATIONS. P. Achillea argentea, 254 ; ageratifolia, 254 Actinotus Hplianthii, 634 Alpine house at Kew, 178 American blight on young Apple shoots, 572 Anchusa italica Dropmore variety, 278 Anemones from Parkinson's " Paradisus," 301 Annuals, a border of, 114 Apple Ard-Cairn Russet, 585 ; attacked by scab, 483 ; Chelmsford Wonder, 599 ; Lane's Prince Albert, 645 ; William Crump, 46 Apricot tree, 81 Arabis albida in the rock garden, 620 Arctotis grandiflora. 461 Arenaria montana, 302 Asperula hirta, 28 Aspidium angulare proliferum, 561 Aster D. B. Crane, 537 ; Delight, 539 ; Mesa grandiflora, 539 ; Perfection, 538 Auricula Phyllis Douglas, 202 B. Banana, the red, 426 Beans, how to stake Runner, 305 Beetroots, lifting and storing, 516 Begonia Gloire de Lorraine, 102 Boltonia asteroides, 438 Border in Chalkwell Park, 485 Box edging, how to plant, 576 Briar, Hybrid Sweet, Catherine Sejiion, 315 Bryonia dioica» 129 C. Cabbage Winniugstadt Improved, 460 Cabbages and Onions, planting, 204 Cacti, Spineless, 88 Calandrinia grandiflora, 113 Calceolarias, herbaceous, at North Colling- ham, 289 Campanula lanata, 563 ; pyramidalis alba, 648, 645 ; Vidalii, 402 Candytuft, an edging of, 416 Cant, Mr. Frank. 570 Capsicums for the greenhouse, 127 Carnation Empire Day, 312 ; house, 536 ; Mrs. T. E. Henwood, 401 Carnations, Malmaison, 389 Carrots, how to thin, 304 Ceanothus divaricatus, 425 ; thyrsiflorus, 363 Chestnut shoot in water, 181 Chrysanthemum Caledonia, 66 ; Eureka, 89 ; inodorum Bridal Robe, 472 ; Mrs. W. Parker, 30 Chrysanthemums after flowering, 600 ; how to retain the buds of, 404 Clematis indivisa, 527 Colchicum speciosum album, 525 Coleus, increasing, 104 Collinsia bicolor, 155 Columnea magniflca, 42 Convolvulus mauritanicus. 549 Crinum purpuiascens, 112 Crocus aerius, 212 ; aureus lacteus, 126 ; chrysanthus, a feathered seedling of, 140 ; hyemalis Foxii. 188 ; Korolbowii Dytiscus, 153 ; leevigatus Fontenayii, 176 Cucumbers in a small garden, 424 Currants, big-bud in Black, 188 Cypripedium lolanthe, 609 Cypripediums, how to pot, 648 Cytisus Dallimorei, 291 Daffodil, Killara, a new Australian, 644 Daffodils, a box for carrying, 125 ; at Olton, 253 Daisy, a double-flowering, 339 Daphne Mezereum Paul's White, 255 Dean, Mr. Alexander, V.M.H., 263 Dionsea muscipula, an insectivorous plant, 646 K. Eremuri at Manor House, Eastbourne, 314 Erica lusitanica, 279 Escallonia langleyensis, 351 Euphorbia Wulfenii and Yuccas, 40 Ferns, a group of. 258 ; Filmy, 228 ; Tree, in the open, 300 Flax, alpine, 475 Foxgloves, self-grown, 435 Frames and greenhouses, ventilating, 624 Freesias and Fritillarias, culture of, 464 Fruit, collection of dessert, 531 ; trees, grease-banding, 488 ; planting, 552 ; I Nymphaeas, 267 pruning and training, 44 National Sweet Pea Show, 361 ; Society's outing, 376 Nectarine Humboldt, 403 Nemesias, a bed of, 131 Nemophila insignLs, 367 Nepenthes ventricosa, one of the Pitcher Plants. 647 Nepeta Mussinii, 413 Notospartium CarmichaelaB, 143, 338 G. Galanthus Atkinsii, 154 Geraniums, scented -leaved, 393 Gladiolus, planting, 193 Glamis Castle Gardens, 586, 587 Glory Pea in South Devon, 364 Gourds on pergola, 514 Grapes at British Fruit Show, 530 ; first- prize exhibit, 43 ; prize, grown in ordinary soil, 4 Grieve, Mr. James. 29 Gunnera manicata at Ascot, 451 H. Haarlem Jubilee Show, 179 Heliantbemums, new and old, 596, 597 Heracleum mantegazzianum, 526 Herbs for the garden, 244 Hot-beds, 92 Hyacinth, a floriferous, 240 Hyacinths, potting, 528 Hydrangea Hortensia, 257 ; in an Ascot garden, 450 Hydrangeas, how to propagate, 340 Iberis and Cobweb Houseleek in rock garden, 574 Impatiens Holstii, 17 Iris albopurpurea colchesterense, 336, 363 ; Fulvala. 337 ; Kampferi, 365 ; the Peacock, 473 ; tingitana, 349 Irises, a border of Spanish, 633 ; Bearded, 439 [vies, planting and propagating, 20 K. Kirengeshoma palmata, 573 Krelage, Ernest H., 211 Leeks and Celery, how to blanch, 440 Leggy plants, treatment of. 56 Leptosiphon hybridus, 436 Lettuce, how to grow, 268 ; Sutton's Favourite, 437 Lilac, a hedge of. 7 ; Californian, as a wall plant, 303 Lilium auratum in pots. 192 ; giganteum, 142 Lily, the Madonna, 474 Linaria bipartita alba, 203 Lobelia, propagating, 132 Loganberry, how to prune the, 452 Lychnis, increasing and growing, 144 M. Marguerites, how to grow, 636 Melon Golden Beauty, 524 Midland Dattodil Show, 246 Mill-race changed to a rock garden, 415 Miltonia bieuana Hessle variety, 277 Montanoa mollissima, 623 Myosotis in a pot, 392 N. "Narcissus Anchorite. 242 ; Apricot Queen, 226 ; Blackwell, 124 ; Challenger, 242 ; Fire Dome, 191 ; Firetail, 462 ; in a teapot, 245 ; King Edward VII., 515 ; Princess Juliana, 64 ; W. P. Milner, 152 ; White Star, 243 Oak, old, in Kyre Park, 100 Odontoglossum house at Craighead, Both- well. 264 ; RossianisB rubens, 239 ; splendens, 141 Olearia macrodonta, 448 Onions, thinning, 328 ; transplanting, 205 Orchid, Medusa's Head, 52 Pseony, an old Tree. 400 ; Tree, 325 Page-Roberts, Rev. F., 498 Pansies, how to increase, 428 Pansy blossoms, removing spent, 317 Parkinson's 'Theatrum Botanicum," 288 Paul, Arthur William. 324 Pea Carter's Daisy, 128 Peaches and Nectarines, pruning, 68 ; packed for market, 427 Pear tree, pruning, 32 Pelargoniums, scented, 112 Pemberton, Rev. J. H., 618 Penstemons, how to propagate, 476 Perennials, how to increase hardy, 588 Pergola, a Rose, after four years, 31 Perry, Mr. Amos, 225 Phlox, Canadian, Perry's variety, 231 Pineapple Smooth Cayenne, 608 Pinks on dry wall, 487 Planting herbs, 256 Plants, raising, 116 Plum Grand Duke. 53 Polyanthuses and Primroses, increasing, 380 Polypodium Schneideri, 17 Potato Snowdrop, a good crop of, 16 ; Webb's First Crop, 449 Potatoes, diseased, 560 ; earthing up, 316 ; Provost and Admiral, 512 Potentilla, how to propagate, 156 Primula obconica gigantea, 200 ; Unique, 271 Pulmonaria officinalis, 213 R. Ramondia pyrenaica, 327 Ranunculus Evening Star, 313 ; Lyallii, 379 Raspberries, pruning and planting, 8 Rock Cress, increasing, 230 Rock garden, a tangled, 201 ; at an ex hibition, 177 ; at Crowborough, 229 ; exhibit, 219 ; in Scotland, 350 Rockery at Bishopstone liectory, 215 Roof garden, a, 166 Rosa pimpinellifoUa, 598 Rose Blush Rambler, 501 ; Caroline Testout, a bed of, 391 ; Conrad F. Meyer, 5 ; Dauae, 497 ; Dorothy Perkins, 54, 500, 561 ; a weeping tree of, 575 ; Francois Foulard, 167 ; garden in Chalkwell Park, 484 ; Innocente Pirola, 499 ; Juliet, 214 ; Mrs. David McKee, 115 ; Mrs. Herbert Stevens, 486 ; Mrs. James Ferguson, 524 ; pergola, 390 ; pergola in the Rev. P. Page -Roberts' garden, 562 ; some enemies of the, 502 ; Tea Rambler, 414 Rosemary, a veteran, 621 Roses and Clematis, how to layer, 352 ; Christmas, and hardy Ferns, 635 ; how to disbud, 292 ; how to plant, 540 ; rambler, 91 S. Sagittaria japonica tlore-pleno, Saintpaulia ionantha, 103 Paxifraga and Schizanthus for house decoration. 290 : burseriana, 55 ; coch- learis, 326 ; Faldonside, 141 ; Fortiinei at Kew, 622 ; paradoxa, 463 ; pyra- midalis, 266 Schoul garden, 387 Seed drills, the art of making, 18n Sempervivum Funckii. itO Shortia uniflora grandiflora, 164 Shrubs, planting evergreen, 564 Snowfiake, the Summer, 101 Solanum crispum, 85 Sophro-Cattleya Doris Cobb's variety. 584 Spiraea discolor, 41 Stenanthium robustum, 513 Stock Admiration, 293 Stocks edged with Alyssum. 417 Stokesia cyanea, 550 Strawberry Laxton's Reward, 377 Suburban garden, a, 412 Succulents, a group of, 265 Sweet Pea Etta Dyke, a spray of, 139 ; Kathleen MacGowan, 76 ; Mrs. Charles Foster, 77; Mrs. Hugh Dickson, 378; spray, 367 ; two types of flowers, 82 Sweet Peas, an avenue of, 6 ; autumn- sown, 78; 11 feet high, 74; growing on fish-netting, 79 ; planting, 216 ; raisuag, 80 ; T61enily, 252 Synthyris reniformia, 165 Table decorated with Water Lilies and Irises, 512 Thuya gigantea, 66 Todea superba, 227 Town garden border, 366 Tropreolum tuberosum, planting, 193 tubers, 52 Tulipa kaufmanniana aurea, 241 Tulips at "Holland in Ireland," 478 V. Vegetable Marrows, 280 Vegetables, prize exhibits of, 506, 507 Veitch, Mr. P. C. M., 632 Violas in rock garden, 19 Violets, La France, 181 Wall climbers, how to plant, 612 Wall, dry, in November, 610, 611 Walls, dry, 189 Wistaria multijuga, 551 Yucca recurvifolia, 18 COLOURED PLATES. Apple Rev. W. Wilks, 572 Clarkia Firefly, 451 Dahlia Orange Fire King, 274 Dahlias, single- flowered. 427 Damson Merryweather, 527 Delphiniums, 351 Eschscholtzia Mikado, 622 Gerberas, new hybrid, 31 Narcissi, four new, 402 Narcissi, some new, 474 Narcissi, three new, 379 Pansies, Violetta, 303 Pentstemon Myddleton Gem, 55 Polyanthuses, 5 Primula obconica, 179 Rose Juliet, 500 Rose Mrs. Edward J. Holland, 551 Rose Jessie, 155 Sweet Pea Paradise Apple Blossom, 597 Sweet Peas, 327 Sweet Peas, three new, 103 Sweet Peas, three popular, 227 Sweet Peas, some of the newer, 78 Rhododendron Dr. Stocker, 203 Violet Devoniana, 255 I .^ rum- mondii could be grown entirely in the open air, but it is highly popular, and for that reason is very often started in heat and later on trans- ferred to a cold frame like Stocks and China Asters, in order to hasten growth and give a longer season of flowering. Taking these things into consideration, it is surprising that P. rremeri- aua has not been introduced to cultivation, though described as long ago as 1848. It grows on the prairies in light soils in Brown County, West Texas, and forms a graceful plant, 3 inches to 6 inches high when in full bloom. Though dwarf, it branches freely from the base, thus covering a January 1, 1910.] THE GAEDEN. oonsiderable amount of spate. Eaoh ramitioa- tion ends in one to three or more flowers, 1 inch in diameter and of a lilac purple, while the spathulate or linear leaves are only 1 inch long, indeed, often only half that length. Under culti- vation, no doubt, all parts of the plant would be larger, and in the hands of the florist it would probably vary in colour like the other annual Phlox. The Siberian Crab.— There is a fair wealth of trees and shrubs that would retain their berries througli the autumn and winter if it were not for the birds, which are very fond of certain kinds and greedily devour them almost as soon as they are ripe. This applies particu- larly to the species of Cotoneaster and Barberry, while the fruits of the common Hawthorn, the Fire Thorn and Holly are passed over till the last or till severe weather drives the thrushes to forage for berries of any kind. The Siberian Crab (Pyrus bacoata) is very little molested by any of our birds, so that the small Apples usually hang thickly upon the trees, as they do at present, till severe frost softens the fruits, after which they soon become discoloured and drop or get blown down by the wind. At present they are bright red and glossy, closely resembling Cherries, on the leafless trees. This resemblance is due to the calyx falling at an early period of growth, thus leaving the top of the fruit smooth and clean. Of the several synonyms with which the species is encumbered, one is Malus cerasifera, meaning the Cherry-bearing Apple, which would have been a very appropriate name if Linn^us had not previously described it as Pyrus baocata, the berried Pyrus. In April and May the pro- fusion of large white flowers suggest a Pear ra^er than an Apple, but the red fruits com- pensate for this when they colour in autumn. They are over three-quarters of an inch in diameter, and, therefore, much larger than the fruits of several of the Japanese Crabs. — ,1. F. Sweet Pea feptilisatlon.— In reading over your report of the papers and following discussion on the subject of waved Sweet Pea fertilisation, at the recent meeting of the National Sweet Pea Society, I do not observe that anyone raised the question as to the connexion, if any, with the waved standard form and the elongated style or pistil of the flower. Is there anything in the formation of the standard that induces this wavy structure and yet at the same time "^»ffects the style also? Nothing seems ever to have been shown as to the causes which led to this, one may say, deformed floral formation. Again, has anyone at any stage in the growth of waved forms enveloped a few plants in a covering of muslin, cutting out any rogues the moment they are seen, and then testing the seed the following year to note results ? Clearly, in such case, if the product was mixed it could not be the product of insect agency, and, if the muslin was of very fine texture, hardly of pollen wafted on the wind from other varieties. Were in such case the product mixed, would it not be fair to assume that lack of reproductive consistency was due to heredity rather than to some external causes '1 That Sweet Peas were, prior to the introduction of the Spencer type, so true to character as seedlings naturally leads to the assumption that in creating the waved standard there was a kind of dislocation of the natural form and character of the plant, and that between that dislocation and the lack of consistency there must be some connexion. I shall be told that some — a few. at least — of the named Spencers now come true. I would like to have absolute assurance of that. But if such be the case, is the waved form in the flowers of those varieties less marked than is the case with the flowers of those which habitually come untrue ; It is odd that no such irregularity affects edible Peas as a rule. A few may produce rogues until by careful selection absolutely fixed, but they do not seem to go on producing criminals for ever. A very interesting subject is here suggested. — D. GARDENING OF WEEK. THE FOR THE SOUTH AND SOUTH MIDLANDS. Fruits Under Glass. A N^' Grapes that are still hanging should /\ now be out to allow the Vines to be / % pruned, also to give them a rest. / ^ Cut the bunches with sufficient wood / ^ for bottling and place them in an airy fruit room. When pruned, rub oflf any loose bark that may be easily removed by the hand and give the rods a thorough washing with a fairly strong solu- tion of Gishurst Compound. Well wash the house with a soft soap emulsion. All ironwork and wires should be painted with neat petroleum and the walls whitewashed. When all cleansing operations are completed, remove the top of the border to the uppermost roots and give a top dressing of good loam that has had a liberal quantity of bone-meal or fertiliser mixed with it. Should the roots be all inside, the border must have a thorough watering. Pot Vines. — Where these are grown they should be started at once. Plunge the pots in heating material of a temperature of 1)5° to 70°, and bend the rods round to induce the buds to break more regularly. A night atmospheric tem- perature of .50° is quite sufficient to commence with, and keep the Vines syringed on bright days. Plants Under Glass. Perpetual- flowering Carnations. — These will now be flowering freely, and careful attention must be given in the way of watering and airing. A batch of cuttings should be got in, using short, sturdy side shoots, obtained by pulling them off the stems. A very simple and easy plan for rooting these is to insert them in a .S-inch pot filled with clean sand and place them in a propagating or Cucumber house. Primulas. — Careful watering is necessary to grow Primulas successfully, giving them plenty of air on bright days ; a buoyant atmosphere suits them best. The stellata varieties are very useful for conservatory decoration, also P. kewensis is a good plant for winter flowering. Hardy Fruit Garden. Pruning.^With the exception of Peaches and Nectarines, all pruning should be pushed on. In cases of old wall trees, where the spurs have been allowed to get crowded, it is best to reduce them considerably, cutting them off close to the main branches. Thin out the middles of orchard standards to allow free access of sun and air. Morello Cherries that had their summer pruning properly attended to will only require to have some of the old wood out out to make room for the young fruiting wood. All fruit trees should have a thorough washing of some good insecti- cide. A knapsack sprayer is very useful for this work, and where trees are infested with American blight, soluble alkali is very effective. Kitchen Garden. The work in this department depends a great deal on the weather. During frosty spells manure can be wheeled on the ground, and when the weather is open digging and trenching must be proceeded with. All newly turned ground should be left lying rough, to allow the air and frost to penetrateit. Asowingof Peas maybe made in light soils on warm borders, choosing the first oppor- tunity when the ground is in working condition. Sutton's Little Marvel and Chelsea Gem are two excellent varieties for early use. (Jive a coating of red lead before sowing, to protect the seed from mice. Seed Potatoes that are required for frame planting should be set up in boxes to sprout, keeping them near the light to induce sturdy growth. E. C. Pooley. (Head gardener to C. Bowes, Ksq.) Onaton Hall, Plymouth. FOR THE NORTH AND NORTH MIDr,ANDS, Indoor (i a u d k .n . ToMATOKS. — Now is a good time for sowing the main crop of this valuable vegetable, as plants raised thus early will give ripe fruits by the end of May, and with skilful handling will continue to give a steady supply until well into October. Of course, it must be made plain that it is onh where a suitable temperature can be relied on that early sowing is recommended. A steawly temperature of (iO° to 6.')° is essential, for the Tomato in its earlier stages quickly resents cold. Sow thinly in pans of light soil, plunge in gentle bottom-heat, and in a few days germination will take place. As soon as through the soil, remove to a shelf close to the glass, and see that the soil is never allowed to become dry. Ghrysantlirniuin Cutting.-^. — The bulk of the cuttings that are to produce plants for large blooms will by now have been secured, although a few varieties are best if propagated during January or February. For instance, Mrs. A. T. Miller and Mrs. E, Beckett always give the finest blooms on the early crown buds, and if these varieties are rooted too early the first buds are produced much too soon, and must be rubbed out, or else the bloom expands long before it is wanted. The Vineries. — Houses that were started in November or December should now have a little more warmth, but too high a temperature is to be avoided. Other houses that are to be started now must be kept close, and a little warmth given in the pipes, which can gradually be in- creased as outside conditions improve. The later houses must now be pruned and thoroughly cleaned. It is very bad practice to prune Vines just before starting them into growth, as I have seen some growers do. Bleeding is almost cer- tain under these conditions, whereas if the pruning is done as soon as the wood has become thoroughly ripe, the wounds get perfectly healed before the sap rises. After cleaning a vinery the borders should have a top-dressing of fresh loam and some good artificial stimulant. First remove a few inches of the exhausted surface soil, taking care not to damage the roots. The new soil should be beaten down with the back of a fork, and if poor, a mulching of old rich manure spread over it. Cold Frames. Bulbs. — Remove these as required to keep up supplies, and always give all the light possible to those left in the frames. Give air also on all favour- able occasions, but mat securely in frosty weather. Other Ocrupanta. — Look over stocks of bedding plants at frequent inters als, removing dead leaves and weeds. Mice often attack Carnations, Violas and other plants at this season ; so a careful look- out should be kept for these little pests. Slugs, too, are often troublesome, and must be hunted for at night and destroyed. Kitchen Garden. Digginfi. — With the very inclement weather most of us have experienced, work is very much in arrears ; therefore no favourable opportunity must be lost to get this important work pushed forward. If the manure was wheeled on during the hard frost, the digging will be got through much more rapidly. Be sure to leave the surface as rough as possible. Trenchinri. — In numbers of gardens there is but little time in which to thoroughly trench the soil as it ought to be done. It is best to try and trench part of the garden every season. Double digging or bastard trenching is a very good sub- stitute and, in many soils, is equal to actual trenching. I strongly advise that the plot to be sown with Peas be double dug or trenched, as experience has shown me that this will increase the yield by quite r>0 per cent., while the quality is very greatly improved also. C. Blair. (Gardener to Seton Thomson, Esq. ) Preston House, Linlithgow. THE GARDEN. [January 1, 1910. THE FRUIT GARDEN, HOW TO GflOW FINE GRAPES IN ORDINARY GARDEN SOIL. 1 WOULD like to say at once that I should not prefer to plant Vines in ordinary garden soil if I had the opportunity of using good fibrous loam. In many instances, however, amateurs in towns are unable to procure nice fibrous loam, except at a price which is quite prohibi- tive. Let me say further, that those persons so situated as to be able to command an unlimited supply of the best fibrous turf without going to any expense beyond that of the necessary labour entailed in cutting it should make very good use of such a valuable aid to the successful cultivation of flowers, fruits and vegetables. Notwithstanding the fact that thousands of amateurs are not in a position to obtain suitable loam for growing Vines in, they must not be disheartened, but make an attempt to grow them in ordinary garden soil, as the writer has done, the accompanying illustration of the bunches of Grapes obtained proving how successfully the Vines may be thus grown if proper cultural attention is bestowed on them. The bunches are Vines are planted inside the houses, and the roots can ramble at will in the outside borders. In order to build up the Vines I do not hesitate to prune the young rods hard back each year. Furthermore, plenty of air is admitted whenever the weather is fine. The bunches shown in the illustration are nearly of the same size and shape, but one shoulder of the bunch on the right does not show. The berries also are of the same size and bear a dense blue-black bloom. The stand on which the bunches are placed measures nearly "2 feet 6 inches in length. BmirneTnouth. George Garner. [We had the pleasure of seeing these Grapes growing in September, and were surprised at such results being obtained from Vines planted in ordinary garden soil of medium quality only. — Ed.] APPLE CHARLES ROSS. Intending planters should make a note of this variety. When first sent out the fruit was con- sidered too large for dessert by some growers. I find as the tree gets older the fruit does not develop to such a large size as it does on quite young trees. It is a splendid cropper both on the espalier and in bush form, and the fruit colours well on either. I have not tried it as a standard. PRIZB GRAPES GROWN IN ORDINARY GARDEN SOIL. prize ones, cut from Vines planted in light sandy and gravelly soil. No attempt has been made to grow the Vines specially for the purpose of producing exhibition Grapes, as each rod, the third year of cropping, bore about 151b. weight of Grapes. They have been cropped according to their strength. The wood is strong and well matured, the young leading rods being as thick as the average forefinger and bearing five or six eyes or buds per foot run of rod, which fact proves that the wood has been produced under good cultural treatment. There are twelve Vines in one span-roofed house, namely, three Alicante, three Black Hamburgh, two Muscat of Alexandria, two Gros Maroc and one each of Lady Downe's and Madres- field Court. All the varieties are as satisfactory as these shown in the illustration, with the excep tion of Muscat of Alexandria, which did not set well enough to please me nor did it colour well ; but the week that the Vines were in flower there was no sunshine, and a Peach tree blocked out the light and so interfered with the colouring. I have planted sixteen Vines in another house, namely, six of Black Hamburgh, eight of Alicante and two of Muscat of Alexandria, and these Vines are promising well. The first year after planting I do not allow the Vines to bear, and the second year they are cropped according to their strength and fed moderately. All the It is a much better grower with me than Cox's Orange Pippin, one of its parents, and the flavour is almost as good It is in season just before Cox's Orange Pippin. Sophy Park, Ohristchurck. J. Murray. HOW TO GROW EARLY MELONS. To have ripe fruit at the beginning of May, seeds of a reliable sort should be sown at once. Fill 3-inch pots with loamy soil, which should be warm, with a little finely broken mortar rubble mixed. Sow two seeds in each pot, so as to be on the safe side in case one fails to germinate, eventually removing the weaker one. Plunge the pots in a bottom-heat of Sll* till the seedlings are well through, then place them on a shelf near the glass to encourage a sturdy growth. Some people prefer fruiting their earliest Melons in pots, but we find the ordinary bed most satis- factory. As the earliest crops benefit by a hot- bed, the material should be prepared at once of well-fermented leaves and stable litter in equal parts. In forming the bed the fermenting material should be raised, so as to allow for a bed of soil 18 inches wide by 9 inches deep, the latter being brought within a few inches of the trellis. It is important to make the soil firm ; a loose- rooting medium is conducive to soft, pithy growth, which is very liable to canker. THE KITCHEN GARDEN. THE NEWER KALES FOR WINTER AND SPRING USE. FROM October to May the Kales or Borecoles are an important crop, and the additions of late years have made the task of securing a good supply an easy one. We now have some very fine Kales, and I will enumerate a few of the best. Hybrid Hearting Kale. — This is an entirely new form of branching Kale, and a most valuable addition to the winter vegetables. The plants are large and produce a great number of shoots, and after severe weather are most valuable, as the shoots are delicate and produced in abund- ance. This form differs from the older Scotch forms or Green Curled, and in appearance some- what resembles Couve Tronchuda, having a prominent midrib, but this, though larger, is of excellent quality. Arctic Curled Kale. — These I referred to a season or two back, and even now they are not grown nearly so much as they deserve. They are most valuable for amateurs or those who have none too much space, as they are very dwarf and produce large masses of curled green leaves of splendid flavour. Like all the Bore- coles, to get them at their best they should be boiled slowly and with plenty of water, so that they are not at all crowded. These are in season from December to April, and grown on a north border I have had them well into May, planting the previous July. SiUIoh's Al Kale. — This Kale is similar to the Scotch, and, like the last-named, the leaves are densely curled ; but the growth is different, and in this respect somewhat resembles Brussels Sprouts, having a strong stem with closely packed small shoots emanating from it and a large head at the top. It is very hardy, and I do not know\ of any winter vegetable that surpasses it in quality. Kale Favourite. — This Kale closely resembles the Asparagus, and is much liked in the northern parts of the kingdom for its hardiness. The plant, when well grown, produces an enormous quantity of sprouts, which are somewhat like Asparagus when cooked and are later than the ordinary Kales. Last season, after a severe winter, this variety was one of our best spring vegetables, and it yielded a great quantity of material. Drumhead Kale. — A distinct type of vege- table, and very hardy indeed. I think this an excellent introduction where variety in vege- tables is valued, and there is a great gain in having variety at this season. This Kale in growth closely resembles a Drumhead Cabbage, hence its name ; but this only concerns its shape, as the leaf is large, having a broad midrib, which can be cooked separately. The heads cooked whole are excellent, and the plant branches freely after they are cut. Netv Sprouting Kale. — Here we have a distinct type of Kale, in some particulars resembling the older Scotch form, but with a denser growth and more productive in the way of side growths. It is not at all coarse, as when well grown the plants only roach 15 inches to 18 inches in height, but are broad and dense, therefore requiring ample room. It is very hardy, and I have never seen it injured by severe frost. It remains good a long time in the spring before it attempts to run to seed. When cooked the flavour is excellent. Carter's Driimhead Kale. — This valuable winter vegetable is a recent addition to this class of vegetables, and, unlike the other Borecoles, has a solid head which, when cooked, is equal in quality to an early spring Cabbage. The plant is dwarf and of easy culture, having broad, curled leaves, and every part is usable. G. Wythes. January 1, 1910. THE GARDEN. THE ROSE GARDEN. POPULAR MARKET ROSES. WE have many Roses which neither the florist nor the public ever tires of that possess the double merit of being popular and pro- fitable. Tolookata6eldof Koses in bloom from .July onwards, or to see the beautiful examples of the flowers that are staged at the leading exhibitions, the uninitiated might reasonably conclude that a dozen or score might be taken haphazard from a stand that would serve any purpose for which a Rose might be required. Exactly the opposite, however, is the fact. It may be that the Rose will not force well or that it is wanting in freedom of flower ing, it may be thinpetalled or lacking one of the more popular shades of colour, it may be weak in growth or a little worse than something else already on the market ; but whatever its defects may be, one thing is certain, viz., that the market florist will quickly find it out and just as promptly discard it, even though the stock may run into hundreds or thousands. At the same time, the market-man is ever sufficiently alert to know a good thing when he sees it, and instances such as these, if not numerous or common- place, occur from time to time. Those lovely Roses Richmond and Liberty are cases in point, while the flowers are so delightful, both in colour and form, wflfen the plants have been well grown or gently forced that they command general attention. Not, indeed, for many years has there appeared a pair of novelties that so com- pletely captivated the market- men as these, while the subsequent behaviour of the varieties has fully borne out what was expected of them. In short, the best tribute that a market Rose, Carnation, or Chrysanthemum can possibly have is in the fact that it is still grown, and to be this the variety must be in demand. With careful and steady forcing the plants yield beautiful blooms, and the trusses, being freely dis- budded, provide flowers fully large enough for any ordinary uses at home. In the early forcing of the Rose it is found that those varieties having long, tapering buds are most quickly responsive, while those with full flowers and where the petals may to some extent overlap do not so quickly answer to the call made upon them. That delightfully fragrant Rose La France, although a popular favourite at one time, has the defect of great fulness, coupled to which are flowers having tightly placed petals that go to make up the some- what cone-shaped flowers, and which require sunlight to assist them to expand. From well-known Mrs. .Tohn Laing, and when to the foregoing good qualities is added its great charm when seen under artificial light, there is no need to ask questions concerning its popularity. Its best flowers, however, are not obtained, as many suppose, from maiden plants, but from older examples, and not infrequently from such as are planted out in beds under glass. If pot-grown the variety should be treated most liberally, not gorged with organic manures or poisoned by strong overdoses of chemical manures, but regarded rationally and accorded the requisite assistance to perform its functions in due course. Liberal pot-room with firm potting are most essential, not only to this, but to all classes of Roses grown in pots. Loose potting, care less watering and overdoses of manure, with much heat, are among the chief items that bring failures where successes only sliould be found. All early forced Roses are very tender and highly susceptible to the changes of the weather, though, perhaps, this applies most of all to the exhibition board or in the garden, fall short, in some way or another, of those attributes which go to make a popular and profitable market Rose. and H. .Jenkins. ROSE CONRAD F. MEYER. This is one of the most beautiful of Roses, the first almost to greet the early summer. The flowers are large, very sweetly scented, and soft rose in colour. A correspondent writing about it re<:ently says : " The great silvery rose, sweetly scented flowers are produced in wonder- ful profusion. This Rose can be trained on a pillar or over an arch, but is seen at its best when allowed to form a free bush. If planted as a hedge it must be given plenty of room ; to try and keep it within bounds by interfering with its great prickly shoots would take away half its charm. A few old growths should be removed each year ; beyond this little pruning is necessary. The plant represented is in the garden of the Rev. F. Page- Roberts, rector of Stratfieldsaye, and the photograph was taken by Miss Dorothy Page Roberts. COLOURED PLATE. FLATS T it has Oxlip. "pips' KOSE tONKALi F. MEYER IN THE REV. F. PAIJE-ROBERTS 8 HARDEN. Teas and the red-flowered class, of which Captain Hayward and (ieneral .Jacqueminot maybe taken as the long-stemmed and popular button-hole varieties respectively. Mme. Abel Chatenay still holds a high place, though the newer Joseph Lowe, a shapely pale pink sport from Mrs. W. .J. Grant, is making great headway, and by some is the market-grower's point of view and for i expected to displace the older variety. In my earliness in particular. La France, when hard j opinion there is room for both. It is worth forced, produces its flowers upon a very long and ; recalling, however, that, at the recent autumn weak peduncle or footstalk, and the support Rose show of the National Rose Society, Joseph necessary to keep the rather heavy flowers erect i Lowe, in a superb table arrangement, took first has a disfiguring effect generally. At the same | place, though it must be recorded, in justice to time, given much time to develop, the variety the other variety, that the blooms were by no will appear in a greatly improved condition in means the finest coloured I have seen. As I have several ways, and when well grown it commands said, there is room for both, but the two should attention. not appear in any one arrangement. Such indis- The large, if scentless, white-flowered Fiau I pensable and popular sorts as Niphetos, Perle Karl Druschki is another that requires much ' des .Jardins, Bridesmaid, The Bride and others time to develop its fulness. A type of flower are still with us, and likely to remain so, not valuable alike for its clear pink colour, fragrance, because of any shortage of novelties, but form, firm, long, strong and leafy stems, is the because the latter, delightful as they are on the 1390. POLYANTHUSES. HE origin of the garden Polyanthus is some- what uncertain, some authorities claiming that it is a form of Primrose, others that been evolved from the •Judging from the erect and strong stems of a really good strain, one would be inclined to favour the latter view, even if there were not the evi- dence of the sharply toothed calyx, which is distinctly a characteristic of the true Oxlip rather than of the Primrose. Whatever their origin may be, however, we can all agree as to the beauty and value of these delightfully fresh spring flowers. There are few flowers of which we have not improved forms largely due to the endeavours of Messrs. Sutton, and the Polyan- thus family is one that has been most successfully taken in hand by the Reading firm. In the coloured plate we show one of their fine strains being grown for seed. The plants display great vigour and a wealth of flowers, hardly two plants being identical in colouring. Coming into bloom so early in the year. Polyan- thuses are all the more welcome, and in an extensive garden one can hardly have too many of them. They are charming for shaded walks and the wild garden, as well as for the more usual planting of beds and formal edgings. Even in the smallest garden there are sure to be some shaded spots in which Polyanthuses would thrive. The seed is usually sown too late. April and May are none too early to ensure good strong plants for putting into their flowering quarters in the autumn. By such a sowing sometimes a whole season is gained, and a little attention in watering and stirring of the ground in the early stages of growth is more thaa repaid by the larger trusses of flowers the first spring. The plants are liable to deteriorate the third year, and it is well, therefore, alwajs to have some seedlings, which give nmch finer and more numerous flowers than old divided plants. THE GARDEN. [January 1, 1910. THE FLOWER GARDEN. T SWEET PEA CHAT. HE PAST YEAR.— I wonder whether the year 1909 brought complete satis- faction to any single individual who swears allegiance to the queen of annuals ? It is more than doubtful, recommended to purchase early in the autumn, or at least to place their orders so that the sorts they particularly wished should be kept for them. It is, however, practically certain that far fewer seeds were distributed or ordered last autumn than was the case in the preceding season, and the natural result of this is that all the leading specialists still hold fairly good stocks of most varieties, though some of the very scarcest are almost completely sold out. Sowing will be general from the end of the present month THE GREEN HOUSE. for a more generally wretched year could scarcely be imagined. From the time that the seeds were sown in the spring until the ' onwards, and purchasers are strongly advised to frosts came in the autumn there was something place their orders at the earliest possible moment wrong, and only those who find their keenest so as to ensure prompt delivery. It must be enjoyment in grumbling were genuinely happy, borne in mind by those who place Sweet Peas However, the season of flowering brought its i first in importance that most seed merchants compensations, for many rows and clumps were | deal also in general flower and vegetable seeds ; really superb, and continued to blossom for an j that the orders for these come in by the thousand exceptionally long period. Some of the most favoured varieties failed to live up to their reputations owing to the almost persistent wet, but with better climatic conditions during the present year they may possibly regain them. The Opening Year. — We are on the threshold of another year, and the opportunity may be taken of wishing all Sweet Pea lovers all the good that they wish them- selves. Doubtless many mistakes were made last season, and the wise ones who were industrious enough to make careful note of their errors will find it easy to avoid them in their future opera- tions. I have heard murmurs against the plant because disease has appeared in a few places, and there are those who have expressed their firm determination not to grow Sweet Peas again ; but they will never live up to such a New Year's resolution for more than one year (if they manage that), for the very simple reason that they cannot find another plant to take its place. This annual is unique ; there is no other plant which even remotely resembles it, and indisputably there is no other that will bring such generous returns for the outlay in labour and money. There is a general consensus of opinion in the minds of those who are most competent to judge that the Sweet Pea is not yet on the flood tide of popularity and prosperity, but that it will continue to increase in universal esteem for many years to come. Let us all hope that this will be so. The Nation a r. Society. — Although it is barely ten years since this society was instituted, it has grown so vigorously that it is now practically 1,(K 10 strong and has no fewer than 100 societies in affiliation. This success can only be explained by the fact that its officers and com- mittees have ever kept steadfastly in front of them their duty — the popularisation of the flower by every legitimate means within their in .January and February ; that they are executed the former NOTES ON ORCHIDS. Zygopetalum Maikayi. YGOPETALUM is a genus which con- tains several examples of handsome and free-growing Orchids, but the one quoted above stands out above all others, whether we look upon it from the decorative standpoint, its vigorous growth or its free-flowering qualities. The pseudo-bulbs are round or ovoid, and the arching leaves are from 1 foot to 2 feet long, while the strong, erect flower-spikes usually attain a height of 30 inches and stand well above the foliage. Each flower measures about 3 inches from the base of tlie lip to the top of the uppermost sepal. z J AN AVENUE OF SWEET PEAS IN MR. E. TESCHEMACHEl; S GARDEN in the order in which they are received ; and as most seedsmen manage to get two or three weeks behind the orders, it follows that one may have to wait some time before receiving one's seeds. This always causes a feeling of irritation and may power. The society's publications have always prejudice the prospects of success, and for these been of real value as well as of interest, and its exhibitions have been splendid examples of what such gatherings should be. All lovers of the flower who are not yet members of the National Sweet Pea Society should join at once. Ordering Seeds. — The weather in the autumn reasons buyers are urged to send off their orders forthwith. Spencer. A SWEET PEA AVENUE. Sweet Peas look very pretty when grown on either side of a walk. The accompanying illus- was so extremely unfavourable for all cultural | tration shows the end of a Sweet Pea avenue, the operations that many of the most ardent ' plants being over 10 feet high. From these rows advocates of sowing at that season of the year | a bunchof 2,000 blooms was gathered oneday early failed to do so, and also deferred the ordering of in August. Needless to say, the ground was very their seeds. The crops of the majority of the deeply dug before rowing, but no water was choicer varieties were so poor that everyone was given to the plants E. Teschemacher. being broad, white, streaked and marked with violet-purple. The petals are light yellowish green and spotted with purple-brown. It is an autumn and winter flowering plant, and immediately the scapes are removed re- potting can be taken in hand. A suitable rooting medium con- sists of good fibrous loam, one- half, and the remainder made up of fibrous peat or Osmunda fibre, chopped sphagnum moss, partly decayed Oak leaves and broken charcoal in equal proportions. Ordinary flower-pots are best for all Orchids with fleshy roots, and ought to be quite clean and filled one-fourth of their depth with potsherds for drainage ; over this is laid a thin layer of loam, when it is ready to receive the plant. Where the cultural condiN tioDS have been correct, very little' disturbance at the base will be necessary beyond removing the drainage and any sour soil from the surface. A pot about two sizes larger should be chosen and the soil pressed moderately firm, and when the operation is finished the roots must be half an inch below the rim to allow suffi- cient space for watering, as Zygopetalum Mackayi enjoys plenty of moisture when in a state of activity. The tempera- ture should fluctuate between .'jO" Fahr. and CS" Fahr., the former during the winter period and the latter for the summer months. Many growers place the plants in the cool house among the Odontoglossums, and I have seen some good specimens culti- vated with the Cattleyas ; but in whatever house they are placed, a shady spot is essential through- out the hottest part of the year. When the season's growth is com- pleted, less water is needed, but the roots must not be allowed to become dry so as to cause the pseudo-bulbs to shrivel, or the flowers will suffer later on in consequence. The new shoots should be examined occasionally for thrips, and if they make their appearance the plants may be dipped in a weak solution of XL All liquid insecticide or the house should be vaporised. Annual repotting is not advisable ; in fact, every third year will be ample if these direc- tions are judiciously carried out, and the cultivator will be rewarded with a display of bloom which will remain in full beauty for several weeks if the atmosphere is not excessively charged with moisture. Sentinel. CALCEOLARIA INTEGRIFOLIA. Thls is a very beautiful and attractive plant which, if given a warm position and a little January 1, 1910.) THE GARDEN protection till established, will stand the winter outdoors in the Southern Counties, for as the wood gets older it becomes hardier. It is not grown as much as it deserves to be, for it is very showy when in flower. In colour the flowers are a rich yellow, and although the individual blooms are not large, the size of the truss makes up for that, and it remains in bloom till late in the autumn. K. C. PooLEY. Onalon Oardeiis, Plyinoulk. TREES AND SHRUBS. HOW TO PROTECT TENDER SHRUBS AND PLANTS FROM FROST. OWING to the excessive amount of rain and the mildness of the weather experienced in many parts of the country, the growth of many shrubs was very rampant last season. This in some cases iii.iy be regarded with satisfaction, but in the tase of tender subjects the experienced gardener knows the baneful effects that sharp frost has upon the soft and imperfectly ripened growth. The question then arises ; How can these be protected during the winter V I will endeavour to give a few simple hints on methods which have proved successful. Dealing first with Roses, standards of the tender Tea varieties should have their heads protected by tying them up closely, using soft string for this purpose, and afterwards covering them with neatly plaited straw, tiflfany or light canvas. For the smaller heads the straw coverings used on wine bottles may be used, and for larger heads two of the coverings may often be joined together, and thus form a neat and most efficient protection. Bracken is often recommended and may be used in some cases, but it is apt to be blown off during rough winds and should, therefore, be tied in position. Avoid the use of any heavy material, such as old bags, as these become sodden with water, and in this state are mo=>t detrimental to the well-being of the tree. Uwarf Roses may be protected by having the soil drawn up around their base This should be thoroughly done ; a mound 1 foot in diameter at the base and !t inches deep is not too much for a small bush, larger plants requiring more. If there is any danger of exposing the roots when drawing up the soilj this should be avoided by adding fresh material for forming the mounds. Tender shrubs should have their roots covered with a good layer of leaves or strawy manure, and in open positions wire-netting may be pegged around to prevent this being scattered by wind. In addition to this, light sprays of Spruce or other suitable evergreen should be placed among the branches during a spell of severe frost. Climbers on walls may easily be afforded the necessary shelter by the use of mats. The Coir Wind Screening, which is advertised in The (Jarden, is excellent for protecting plants on walls, also many subjects in the open ground. On heavy clay soil and in cold districts the roots of many choice herbaceous plants will need a layer of some material as a protection. For covering beds and borders containing herbaceous plants and bulbs, the wild Heather, which can be obtained in quantities in some parts of the country, is excellent, especially after being stacked for twelve months. Specimen plants of Bays, Hydrangeas and other plants in pots or tubs should be placed in a shed or other outhouse, taking advantage of fine mild days to admit air by opening the door^ or windows. C. Ruse. A HEDGE OF LILAC. Lilac makes a most effective hedge, and should be more often planted for this purpose. Lilac trees flowered splendidly last summer, owing to the sunny autumn we experienced a year ago. The hedge in the accompanying illustration is very carefully attended to. Dead flowers, suckers and useless growths near the base of the trees are removed directly flowering is over, manure being applied during the winter. E. Tbschbmachbr. add the remainder of the water, mix well together, and apply towards evening when rain is not likely to occur. YEW, HOLLY AND BEECH HEDGES. [In Replj/ to O. D. Oldham.'^ liEKORE manuring your Yew hedge it will be advisable to make deep holes at intervals .'i feet or 4 feet from the hedge, and ascertain whether the ground is dry or not. Sometimes, when a hedge is planted on a bank such as you describe, the grounaphnes in general. It is the species ufeed for grafting the finer sorts upon. Having indulged at some length in this in- teresting pastime in my younger days, I can say that to make the stocks and put on the grafts is easy, and the great point is to have nice quarters ready to promote the junctions and the growing. The better Daphnes comprise D. alpina, a pretty shrub for the rookery, with white or rosy flowers ; D. collina, a smallish arboretum or rookery shrub, with blush or pink-tinted flowers ; and D. Cneorum, a half-trailing shrub, posseasiug the finest qualities, and much to be desired in every well-kept garden. It is a true evergreen, uf neat growth, aud produces rosy flowers that are deliciously fragrant early in spring. For the formal grounds this is a foreground gem, per- fectly hardy, and if left pretty much to itself will grow and increase with great rapidity. It requires peat to grow in. I'he Mezereon and Daphne Laureola prefer loam. Ashioelllliorpe, Xorwicli. T. B. FitLii. THE GAKDEN. [January 1, 1910. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. GARDEN WORK WEEK BY WEEK. THE NEW YEAR.— With the com- mencement of a new year the true gardener's hopes always begin to brighten, and his thoughts are turned towards the spring, with its array of bright flowers fresh from the soil that was erstwhile frozen hard or covered with snow, that will soon be with us. At this time resolu- tions are made, perhaps to be broken within a I. — A WELL-GROWN RASPBERRY PLANT BEFORE PRONING AND THINNnSG. THE BRANOH- INQ CANES ARE THOSE WHICH HAVE BORNE FRDIT, AND SHOULD BE REMOVED, TCXiETHER WITH ANY WEAK NEW ONES. short period, and plans are drawn up for the coming campaign in the garden. It is also a good plan to take stock of all garden implements, manures and other sundries, so that a fair start is ensared. Seeds will soon have to be pur- chased, and already several seedsmen have favoured me with their catalogues, which, judging by a casual glance, are well up to the usual high standard. A word of advice that I would offer to the beginner regarding seeds is this : Do not be tempted to rely on last year's seeds, for therein lies failure and disappointment. There are a few, a very few, kinds that will give good results when two years old ; but the majority, even though they germinate, produce seedlings of weak statuina, which are sure to prove unsatisfactory. Ornnhouae and Fra7nea. — As these notes are being penned the delicate fragrance from a pot of Roman Hyacinths is being enjoyed, and other bulbs are pushing their green leaves towards the light. It is well to remember that Hyacinths, Daffodils and Tulips all delight in abundant supplies of moisture, and, providing the drainage of the pots is sound, it is difficult to over-water them when they are in active growth. Those grown in fibre with no drainage must be given water very carefully, as it must be remembered that none can run away, and consequently much RASPBERRIES IN WINTER. harm would be done were a great deal too much given. To keep the fibre moist without being sodden must be the aim with plants c;rown in this way. As seed -sowing will soon have to be done, it ia a good plan to see about mixing some soil for the purpose. A good general mixture may be composed of loam, two parts ; sand, one part ; and well-decayed leaf-soil, one part. This should first be well mixed and then sifted through a quarter-inch sieve, placing it, if possible, in a warm, dry place ready for use. If it becomes too dry, it is an easy matter to damp and turn the heap before using. Kilclien Garden.— i{eaera,l\y speaking, there is not much yet to be done in this department beyond digging and trenching — work that must be done whenever the weather will allow. In country districts it is well to keep an eye on young Cabbage plants during severe weather, as several kinds of birds will greedily devour them when there is little else to eat. In such oases they must be protected with netting or black cotton, but on no account should the plants be actually touched while frozen stiff. A sowing of Mustard and Cress may be made in shallow boxes of sandy soil in a warm frame or greenhouse, as it will be most useful at this season. Sow the Cress a few days in advance of the Mustard if both are required for use at the same time, as the latter germinates and grows more quickly than the Cress. It will suffice if the soil is well watered and the seed scattered thickly on the surface, just pressing it into the soil. Frtiit Oardeii. — Although the planting of all trees would have been better done in November, there are doubtless many yet to be put in, in- cluding some against walls. In planting in such a position there are one or two points that should be remembered if success is to be obtained. Many beginners make the mistake of planting the tree so that its stem is close to or even touch- ing the wall, a position that is, to say the least, unfavourable, as the stem will always be pushing tightly against the wall in its endeavours to swell. The main stem ought to be at least ti inches from the wall at the base, sloping the branches to the wall where they are eventually to be nailed in position. Nailing or tying is another point where beginners freijuently go astray. It is quite a natural desire to wish to see the branches neatly tied or nailed in position as soon as the tree is planted, but it is a wish that ought not to be carried into effect. The soil round a newly planted tree always settles down more or less, and if the branches are firmly secured in position the tree cannot sink with the soil, and the roots are consequently brought nearer the surface than is desirable. It is best to loosely secure the branches first, just to prevent them being damaged by wind ; and after an interval of two or three weeks they may be properly secured and pruned. A. A. PRUNING AND PLANTING RASPBERRIES. There are few hardy fruits more highly esteemed than the Raspberry. Although the fruits are seldom used for dessert, they are much ap- preciated for culinary purposes, and as the plants are so easily managed, there is no reason, where space and opportunity permit, why a plantation should not be made in the garden of the beginner. At the present period it is customary to prune and thin out the old canes, so that good fruiting shoots* may be developed on those that are retained. Had this pruning been done some time since, it would have been better, but growers often put off this important work till winter. The beginner at this stage may ask : How am I to prune my Raspberries ? We must remember that one of the objects of pruning the canes in good time is to allow light and air free access to the young canes which are to bear fruit in the succeeding year. To prune the Raspberries it ia necessary to cut away entirely all canes (growths) that have borne fruit in the past season. The old canes are absolutely useless, and so long as they remain unpruned they are hindering the aatiafactory progreas of the new ones. That the beginner may thoroughly understand how to proceed with the pruning, a typical plant of one of the taller-growing varieties of the Raspberry is shown in Fig. 1. This represents the canes that have borne last season's crop of fruit and the new ones that are to provide next season's supplies. In Fig. 2 the same plant with all the useless and superfluous canes pruned or thinned out is shown. A close observation of the two illustrations shows how drastic the change is. It is usual to thin out the weak and superfluous canes of recent development, retain- ing four to six of the strongest for future work. Some growers are content to retain only three or four of the most promising ones. Tie the selected canes to stakes or trellis inserted or erected for their support, and as a finale just remove the soft tips of the canes. To add to their fruitfulness it is a good plan to apply decayed manure to the plantation at this period, forking this in to a depth of 3 inches only. Do not use the fork too near the plants, or serious damage may ensue. The making of a new plantation of Rasp- berries is a piece of work that will be of considerable interest to many readers. It is well, in the first instance, to remember that Raspberries are not very fastidious as to soil ; as a matter of fact, they will thrive in any fairly good ground. However, poor soil should have good lasting manure applied in abundance. Raspberries delight in a moist situation, and if -THE SAME PLANT AFTER PRUNING HAS BEEN DONE. January 1, 1910.) THE GARDEN. induoed to break from the base, and these must be encouraged to grow away freely during the suooeeding summer. In the subsequent autumn the weak growths should be out out and those retained staked and tied ; these will provide a good crop of fruit in the following season. Good varieties of Raspberries are : Red — Superlative, Baumforth's Seedling, Lord Beacons- field and Prince of Wales : Noire d'Autonine, large, almost black ; October Orange d'Automne, a very orange colour. THE Yellow, free ; and large fruit of an D. B. C. 3. — TWO EXAMPLES OF YOUNG, RASPl'.KRRY CANES WITH WHICH TO MAKE NEW PLANTATIONS. THAT ON THE LEFT IS A DWARF VARIETY, AND THAT ON THE RIGHT A TALL VARIETY. the plantation be slightly shaded it will be no disad^k'antage. When preparing the quarters, de^jHy dig the soil. I prefer to trench the ground two spits deep, digging in a heavy dressing of manure as the work proceeds. Rasp- berries are propagated by suckers, i. e. , sucker- like growths. Some varieties are much stronger in their growth than others, and for this reason I have portrayed in Fig. 3 examples of both. On the left of the illustration is a young cane of a dwarf-growing variety, and on the right is a good example of a tall-growing variety, which reveals its strong oharaoter by the stoutness and length of the young canes. These are sucker growths that pushed their way through the soil at some distance from the old plants. In a plantation of Raspberries many such sucker canes are developed as the plants get estab- lished, and these should be removed with care, so that as little injury to them and the old plants shall be done as possible. The latter should be severed at their roots by using a sharp knife, taking good care to preserve the dormant buds, which will be found immediately below the surface. By these means fruit-bearing oanes will be ensured during the succeeding geaeon. J Planting may be done at any time between dotober and March, although the earlier this is done, when the weather is open and the ground free from frost, the better. There are various methods of planting ; in rows is, perhaps, the most popular. The rows should be 5 feet apart, and the plants singly 2 feet apart. A trellis should be erected, and the canes secured with care to this. Another method is to plant in groups of three eanes each, arranging the groups .3 feet apart, and in rows 5 feet asunder. Stout stakes, three to each group, should be inserted subsequently for the support of the new canes ; the latter should be secured to the former. Immediately after the planting, the young canes should be cut down to within 6 inches of the ground, so that they resemble the appearance of the specimens represented in Fig. 4. On the left dwarf-growing canes are shown, and on the right tall, strong-growing ones. By cutting back the young canes in this way, strong growths are BEST WAY TO DISPOSE OF GARDEN RUBBISH. The burning of garden rubbish is the best plan both for the sake of tidiness and economy, the ashes forming a valuable plant food. The method of digging the rubbish into the ground is not to be recommended unless trenching is being carried out, when the rubbish may be placed in the bottom of the trench. No wood or prunings should be buried, as these are liable to start the growth of an injurious fungus. Finely sifted ashes from the smother fire are used with advantage for covering the seed of Carrots, (Jnions, and other plants. After sowing the seed cover with a layer of the ashes before filling in the drills with a rake. I iry ashes are best for this purpose, and a quantity should be sifted and placed under cover. Heavy soils which have been dug in the autumn are much improved by the ashes being forked into the surface when preparing them for sowing or planting in spring. For the fruit quarter these ashes may also be used with most beneficial results. In all cases where a fire can be made, burn the rubbish and return the ashes to the soil. C. Ruse. THE TOWN GARDEN. Christmas Roses. — There is no hardy garden flower at this festive season of the year half so precious as the Christmas Rose, of which the typical form is known botanically as Helleborus niger. In the half shaded places of the garden the plants, when they have become established, give but little trouble and yield an abundance of their blossoms, when they are without a rival. Perfectly hardy and enduring, lasting when well planted for several years withjfbut little atten- tion, these are surely the plants to be favoured by all town and suburban dwellers, who are unable to indulge in many of the things of which a country garden might boast. It is, however, somewhat late to be planting these with success, and for the time being I will content myself by directing attention to preserving their flowers in those instances where the plants are already in exist ence. It may not be known to all garden-lovers that there are several distinct forms or varie- ties of the Christmas Rose, and that by growing a set of these varieties flowers may be had from November to February inclusive. The varieties are known distinctively as Helle- borus niger maximus, November flowering ; H. n. major, Decem- ber and early January flowering ; and H. n. angustifolius, .January and February flowering. Where any or all of these exist at the present time, spare frame-lights or cloches may be placed over the clumps to prevent the flowers being spoiled by rain or bespattered by soil. It is equally important just now to carefully examine the crowns to see if these are free from snails and slugs, which nestle therein and devour the buds. Border Carnations.— There is, so far as I have at present observed, a more than average crop of the Carnation maggot existing, and where the older varieties, such as Gloire de Nancy and Criniaon Clove, still remain on the plants where they were layered, the pest has already played havoc with the stock. The presence of the maggot — a small grub of yellowish colour and almut a quarter of an inch in length — may be detected by the whitening of the leaf surfaces, the latter presenting a somewhat blistered or scalded appearance, and which is due to the fact that the maggot, on arriving at the active stage of its existence, has made a channel for itself within the cuticle of the leaf, existing meanwhile on the tissue which oomea in its way. By plucking off a leaf or two the maggot may often be detected at its work, and is then easily destroyed with finger and thumb. To neglect this operation now and thus allow the pest to obtain an entry into the heart of the plant, which it certainly will do, is to risk its flowering during the coming summer. A sharp needle is an excellent instrument to pick out the maggot, when it should be destroyed. Early Ft.owerinc; Chrysanthemums. — Not a few of those who indulge in the cultivation of this most serviceable group of plants lose their stocks entirely through leaving them in the open ground exposed to all the chances and changes of a characteristic English winter. By lifting a few plants and heeling them in at the base of a south or south-west wall, the stools may be preserved for another year. Bulbs in Beds. — One of the weak points of the amateur or beginner in gardening is his fear of planting his bulbs sufficiently deep in the soil, in spite of the very clear instructions that may have been tendered from time to time. Thedirec. outcome of very shallow planting is that with root activity the bulbs are lifted out of the soil, which militates considerably against success. Daffodils and Hyacinths more particularly, by reasonof their strong-rooting characteristics, are prone to lift themselves to the surface in this way, and where the bulbs have been planted in shallow holes made with a dibbler this lifting is likely to be all the more prevalent. Should it be observed that any bulbs are so exposed, they must be pressed into the soil or be covered with other soil. Bulbs in Window-boxes. — The town dweller is often apt to overlook those bulbs he has so carefully planted in his window-boxes during the past weeks, and to quite ignore the fact that but HOW YOUNG ra.sprkrrv canes THEIR treatment AFTER PLANTED CANES ARE CUT INCHES OF THE GROUND. SHOILD nE PLANTED AND PLANTING. THE NEWLY DOWN TO WITHIN A FEW little or no rain can reach them in such positions. Now, bulbs of all kinds, and Daffodils and Hya- cinths in particular, are great drinkers, and must, whether grown in pots or window-boxes, be given ample supplies of root moisture. Of this there must be no half measures, as a wet soil is much more to their liking and more conducive to ulti- mate sucoess than a dry one. Adam. 10 THE GARDEN. [January 1, 1910. BOOKS. An instructive catalogue.— One of the most interesting and instructive catalogues that have been published of recent years is that recently sent to us by Messrs. Heath and Son of Cheltenham. It is aptly described as " A really reliable complete catalogue of hardy plants for rook gardens and herbaceous borders, containing full details concerning height, time of flowering, colour, origin, and how to grow them ; correct nomenclature guaranteed." The catalogue is a model of its kind, and may be thoroughly trusted. It is freely illustrated, and no trouble has been spared to provide a guide of the utmost utility for those who are devoted to the plants of the open air. The nomenclature adopted is that of the revised edition of the " Index Kewensis," and a list is given at the end of " Common and British Names," which should be very helpful. Garland- flower, for instance, is " Daphne Cneorum " ; Spiderwort, " Trandescantia," and so forth. The single column form has been adopted, enumerat- ing the species and varieties, with description, height and month of flowering. The following quotation is in reference to the Japanese Iris and indicates the character of the book, for such it really is: "Iris laevigata (syn. Kjempferi). This most beautiful. lapanese race requires rather special treatment, but with a little ingenuity and trouble it should not be difficult to give them the ideal conditions. Their peculiarity is that they like to be dry in winter and wet in summer, and obviously this must be done artificially. In Japan they are grown in the Rice fields, which are heavily manured in winter when dry, and when summer comes the fields are flooded by irrigation, and here Irises are then about 2 inches under water. If a pond be made (and made ao that it will hold and retain water), and an outlet made level with the bottom, the water will (if supplied by surface drains or other natural means) run straight away. In summer this opening can be raised, and where there is no natural supply it can be filled from a tap. Good rich poil should then be put into the pit up to within 2 inches of the summer outlet and the roots be planted on it, spreading the roots flat and covering with soil. Each plant will then be a sort of small mound, and will not suffer from damp in winter. All this sounds troublesome, but it is really quite simple. Where there is a running stream, a back-water subsidiary stream can be out, which can be kept dry except in summer. It must, however, be remembered that the dampness rendered by shade is of no use whatever. The large flowers are nearly flat, and occasionally measure a foot across, and the colours are very rich and varied." There are many illustrations which are pleasing and instructive, especially that of Dianthus arenarius, D. alpinus and iSedum hispanioum, which are shown together. LEGAL POINTS. Adjoining: owners, trees (Afforesta- trou). — An occupying owner in the suburbs complains that his garden suffers through his neighbour's trees excluding the light and air which would otherwise reach it, and on account of the impoverishment of the soil. He asks what he can do " short of going to law." The only thing he can do legally short of taking judicial proceedings is to exercise the extra judicial remedy of self-help. Operating on his own premises he can, even without giving any notice, lop off overhanging branches. This was decided in the well-known case of Lemraon r. Webb. The owner of a tree cannot acquire the right for it to overhang his neighbour's land, either by prescription or the Statute of Liniita tions. But if no notice is given the aggrieved occupier of the garden must take care to avoid entering his neighbours grounds. After due notice he could doubtlessly enter and abate the nuisance, but should take care to do no more than is absolutely necessary to abate it, and the King's peace must not be broken. The remedy of self- help therefore becomes inconvenient when the branches are of considerable height and hia neighbour comes forth armed with "a strong hand," as the necessary felling operations con- ducted on his own property might involve expensive apparatus with divers little claims for compensation to injured workmen. The only appropriate remedy in such a case is an injunc- tion, and Smith v. Giddy is a recent authority on the point that for a nuisance of this kind an aggrieved person is not bound to confine himself to the remedy of abatement, but can seek the assistance of the Courts. As regards the roots of these obnoxious trees, there is a deficiency of authority on the subject, but the general opinion is that the owner of a tree cannot acquire by length of time an easement for its roots to ramify under his neighbour's land ; in fact, there is a case to the elieot that if he planted the tree himself and its roots broke his neighbour's drain- pipee, he would be liable in damages. The remedy of self-help, however, would certainly be open as before. There is nothing to prevent our reader digging straight down in his own land and destroying the roots. On the whole, we are glad that he wishes, as far as regards this question, to stop short of "going to law," whether his wish arises on account of the congested state of the cause list or otherwise, especially because a claim for general im- poverishment of the soil in such a case is open to much doubt. It is hard to conceive that an occupier would be held liable, because he failed to cut down two or three trees naturally growing on the land before he acquired the property, simply because they happened to sap away nourishment from his neighbour's vegetables, for he is not under any duty to cut down a crop of Thistles, which are by no means conducive to the amenity of the neighbourhood. On the other hand, it is hardly likely that he could indulge in a craze for afforestation in a garden in the suburbs at the expense of his neighbours. Valuation (Market Oardener).—1he general principle that an owner, whether a mort- gagor or a landlord, must not be "improved" out of his own property has no application when statute enacts that for certain specified improve- ments an occupier shall be entitled to compen- sation. A tenant's privilege of running up a lengthy bill against hia landlord, which in Roman law was merely limited by a general maxim, is confined to the matters mentioned in the Schedules of the Agricultural Holdings Act, 190S, which incorporates the Market Gardeners' Compensation Act, 1895. One of our readers enquires whether a landlord who has paid a valuation of £200 to an outgoing tenant and has allowed the incoming tenant to enter free of valuation can be called upon to pay again on the exit of the second tenant. He can be compelled to pay again. These little charges are continually recurring, but not so frequently perhaps as the income tax. Of course, the second tenant can only claim in such a case for the improvements he has made himself. In all pro- bability a landlord who has once been bitten with a heavy valuation will keep a careful record of the state of the property at the time of the second agreement, so as to escape the risk of having to pay twice for the same improvement. Our reader seems to lay some stress on the fact that he himself paid out the valuation on the former tenant's departure. This does not affect the question, as by Section 7, if the new tenant had, with the consent in writing of his landlord, paid out the compensation claimable by the out going tenant, he could have added the amount to his own improvements on quitting the hold- ing ; so it is only a question of interest on the money in the meantime to be taken into con- sideration in fixing the rent. — Barrister. TO ANSWERS CORRESPONDENTS RULES FOR CORRESPONDENTS. Questions and Ansnreps.— T/u; Editor intendu to make THE Garden helpful to all readers who desire assistance, no ^natter what the branch of gardening may be, and with tka.t object will make a special feature of the *' Answers to Correspondents" column. All communica- tions shmiM be clearly and concisely written on one side of the paper only, and addressed to the EorroR of The GAJiDEN, SO, Tairistock Street, Covent Garden, London, W.C. Letters on business should be sent to the Publisher. The name and address of the sender are required in addition to any designation tie may desire to be used in the paper. When more than one query is sent, each should be on a separate piece of paper. FLOWER GARDEN. Border of perennials (M. c. M. A.). From your description it would appear that the border itself requires some preparation, and, if possible, a portion of the dry soil may be trans- ferred to the central part where the heavy clay soil exists, and vice rcraa. If you could do this and thoroughly trench the border, digging in plenty of decayed manure and leaf-soil if avail- able, there should be no need for failure. It is quite possible that the near vicinity of the Cypress hedge will be found to be very dry and the soil poor, and deeper trenching and heavy manuring should be indulged in there. We hardly think you would like the idea of arranging squares of plants to produce effect, even though this were possible, and which, considering the informal characteristics of most plants, it is not. You speak of English Irises flowering with the late May Tulips. As this section of the Iris family does not flower before mid-June, we are wonder- ing whether you are confusing them with some of the early flowering Flag Irises, which blossom in May. What is generally found to be the best way of treating a border of this kind is to first arrange lines of groups throughout the entire length of the border, the second line of groups alternating with those in the first one. For example, stretching a line throughout the border lengthwise, the plants might be arranged in groups of three, five or more, setting them in equal proportions on each side of the line, so that when in growth an informal colony or group would result. In a border of the width you describe, informal groups 4 feet or 6 feet across when in flower might appear in the second line of groups, and by arranging these at good distances apart and filling in the interven- ing spaces with the taller Lilies, also in groups, a fine effect would be secured. Such a border might contain three lines of groups, with a final margin of Saxifraga cordifolia purpurea or something akin at the margin. A background of Hollyhocks, tall Larkspurs, Sunflowers, Michaelmas Daisies in variety, Heleniums and other plants would be most effective ; while in the second line of groups white and red perennial Pea, Kniphofias, Phloxes, Michaelmas Daisies, Japanese Anemones, Rudbeckia Autumn Glory and other things should appear, finally arranging Aster Amellus, A. acris, A. lievigatus, P;eonies, Clielone barbata. Iris aurea, Heliopsis Isevis, Gaillardias, single and double Pyrethrums, Globe Flowers, Columbines, a few of the bestFlag Irises, Alstrii?meria8,Campanulasand other plants near the front ; then by filling in the intervening spaces with Galtonia candicans, such Lilies as testaceum, candidum, pardalinum, tigrinum of sorts, croceum, colchioum, Hansonii, Martagon, canadense, umbellatum, pomponium verum and others a really good and permanent effect would be secured. As the border is sufficiently large to admit of good treatment, we would suggest that it be undertaken in a systematic sort of way, planting it from some prearranged plan where the colours could be seen beforehand. By adopting this method all January 1, 1910. | THE GAKJJEN. 11 formality would be lost, while the effect of well-arranged masses of things would give you what you appear to require. Stock falling' (/^. dv fianiier).—'l'he plant sent was very fully rooted, ami apart from this appears to liave Buttered from a funeoul attack of the stem near the Kround level. Stocka at this season require to be almost dry at the root, and if in conjunction with this tlioy are early sown and have became liard and well rooted, not much harm should follow if kept cool and well aired. If the plants are grown in pots, very tlrni potting should be indulged iu. Keeji the plants near the k'lass and give a slight dusting of dry lime to the stems. Hepbaceous plant border (/?"!/"). - Tlie variety of plants suitable for use in any colour-scheme arrangement is very considerable and might vary accord- ing to individual tastes and reiiuirements, and from experience we tUid that such details are best if left in the hands of those responsible for the carrying out of the work. We are precluded from giving you a plan or a detailed list setting out the arrangement of the plants by reason of the lack of space and other thin^is, and possibly a generalised list would not prove of great service. More- over, in a border of the kind you describe, the colour- scheme would be broken by the angle and by the varying width of the border; hence, in our opinion, the primary effect would be lost. In our opinion, handsome groups of perennials would suit your purpose better, and if you agree with this, we will give you a suitable list on hearing again from you. Hepbaceous plants iJaim's Pafer^oH).— Scutel- laria mociniana has certainly no pretensions to being hardy so far as we know. It is a native of Mexico, and we have grown it with much success in the stove and in the warm intermediate house, where it constitutes a most showy subject. It is really a sub-shrub. Occasionally, however, certain Mexican plants are found to be far hardier than could have been expected; but we have no knowledge of this plant enduring an English winter, even in favoured South Cnast gardens. We are not sure whether the other plants named are in general cul- tivation, but you miy;ht try Messrs. Veitch and Sons, Limited, Chelsea, or Mr. T. Smith, Newry. Campanula raddiaiia is a delightful plant, not yet in commerce, we think. Write to Mr. G. Reuthe, Keston. Kent, for it and the Lysimachia. We doubt whether L. Henryii, a dwarf- growing and not very showy species, will satisfy you. The Asters may be had from any of the hardy plant dealers near London, A. Climax being a very fine novelty. Echium Thompsonii at its best is not more than a biennial, and with early sowing might even be treated as an annual. It is more interesting than pretty. Plants fop cappet bedding* (H. P. fi;.).— The following are all goud : Alternantheras of sorts, the colour of whose leaves varies from yellow to deep crimson ; An- tennaria toiiientosa, silvery grey; Begonia scniperllorens, dwarf varieties; rtfrastium tomentosum, whitish ; Eche- verias of sorts, as dot plants ; Herniaria glabra, forms a dense dark green carpet ; Mentha Pulegiumgibraltaricuro, deep green ; Kteniga maritima variegata, white variegated leaves ; Leucophyta (Calocephalus) Brownii, silvery white foliage ; Lobelia pumila Ingramii, white llowers ; Lobelia Emperor William, deep blue ; Pyrethrum aureura selagi- noides, yellow ; Sedum glaucum, bluish green ; Semper- vivums, as dot plants ; Spergula pilifera aurea, yellow ; and Veronica repens, green. Of sub-tropical plants suitable for tiedding there are many subjects that can be readily raised from seed sown in heat early in the year, and if grown on are very effective by bedding-out time. A selection of the best would include Acacia lophantha, prettily divided leaves ; Cannas of sorts, handsome foliage and flowers ; Eucalyptus cordata and Eucalyptus globulus (Blue Gum), bluish green foliage ; Ferdinaiidia eniinens, a tall-'j,Towing plant with huge roundish leaves; Grevillea robusta, pretty Kern-like foliage ; Kochia tricophylla, a bushy plant like a I'ypress, whose feathery foliage is a light green colour during the summer, changing to crimson towards the end of the seastm ; Xicotiana Colossea and Nicotiana macrophylla gigantea, both with large, handsome leaves ; Nicotiana sylvestris, handsome leaves and white flowers ; Hicinus (Castor Oil Plant) of sorts, some with green and others with purple-tinted leaves ; Solanuras in variety, particularly Balbisii, prettily cut foliage and red- dish spines, height 2 feet; Solanum giganteum, large leaves, purple Howers, heiglit i feet ; .Solanum laciniatiim, elegantly cut leaves, height 4 feet ; Solanum marginatum, downy foliage, edged white, height -'i feet ; Solanum pyra- canthum, leaves covered with red spines, lieight 5 feet; Solanum Warscewiczii, huge deep green leaves, 0 feet; Wigandia caracasana. of upright growth with very lari^e leaves ; and Zea japonica variegata, the variegated leaved Maize. TREES AND SHRUB8. Method of ppuningr for various kinds of shrubs (Miss Whitehead). ~ The shrubs enquired about should be treated as follows : Spartium junceum may be pruned during January or February. Except when young, it does not bear hard cutting back, and ought not to be cut lower than the base of the previous year's wood ; two or three buds of the youngest wood at least ought to be left. If pruning is commenced when the plants are very young, they may be kept dwarf ; it is, however, impossible to dwarf old bushes much, for if cut back into old wood no young shoots appear. Deutzia gracilis vars. venusta and rosea may be pruned as soon as the flowers have fallen. Thin the old flowering wood out well, and leave as many young branches as possible. The old shoots ought to be removed right to the base. The (Jum Cistufl requires no pruning except when very young, and then it ought to be done with the finger and thumb by pinching out the points of the shoots. It is no use cutting it back into old wood, for plants so treated always fail to give satisfactory results. Hydrangea arbo- rescens may have the previous year's branches cut back about halfway in February or March, taking care to cut very weak wood clean away at the same time. Pianting: Lombapdy Poplars for SOreen {(Jatalpa). — The distance apart to plant Lombardy Poplars for a screen depends entirely on the taste of the planter. The orthodox distance is about 12 feet apart, but you can plant them 6 feet apart if you like, and then cut out every other one when they become too thick. If you have room and prefer to do so, you could plant a double row, letting the plants of the second row stand between those of the first. The trees in each case should be 12 feet apart. Planting may be done at once, or any time during open weather between now and the end of February. In selecting your trees, choose well-rooted examples. Fairly large trees may be selected if you so wish, as this particular kind of tree is not a dith3ult one to establish. Planting^ trees and shrubs {T. H. R.). — It you work your ground really well and add good soil where it is poor, you may safely purchase trees from a nurseryman, where the soil is of better quality than your natural soil. You will not stand much chance of success if you transplant Scots Pine, Larch and Hollies from the woods as you propose. It would be far better to obtain plants 3 feet to 4 feet high for planting. Such trees will become established better than the older ones, and will grow more vigorously. It is probable that you would lose 75 per cent, of trees transplanted from a wood. Holly, Portugal Laurel and Yew may be transplanted during the last week of April and the first fortnight of May. Common Laurel and Cupressus may be planted during early April, while, if well rooted, the common Laurel may be planted from February onwards. Holly, Yew, common Laurel and the Thuya you name may all be used for hedges, but they ought to be planted closer than you mention ; 2^ feet apart is usually plenty wide enough, but you will have to be guided solely by the size of your plants. Purchase good, well-rooted specimens, and do not be content with self-sown seedlings from woods, &C. We advise you to consult some local expert with regard to the amount of fresh soil required, and also about the trees in the wood you mention, for by seeing the trees you contemplate transplanting a better idea can be gained of the possibilities of success. White and red DlepvlUas {Mrs. H. Ford).— There is a white Weigela, or Oiervilla as the genus is now called, known as W. japonica var. horteusis. We do not know of a scarlet variety, but there is a rich red one of great merit, which is probably meant, called Eva Ilathke. There are several rose or rose-pink varieties, one of the best of which is called Abel Carriere. By selecting these three varieties you will obtain first-rate shrubs and the very best of the Weigelas, for while there are other white, red and rose varieties, they are not better than those named, and many are decidedly inferior. Qulck-^powing' tpees and shpubs {Mrn. J. W.). — There are many quick-growing trees and shrubs which you niight plant in the ground you mention. Poplars grow very rapidly if planted in damp ground, while Cupressus lawsoniana. Thuya gigantea, Austrian, Scots and Corsican Pines. Larch, Horse Chestnuts and Limes all grow quickly. Pyrus floribunda quickly forms a large bush, while Lilacs, Brooms. Laurels, Rhododendron ponticum, Berberis stenophylla, Forsythia suspensa. Purple Nuts and Mock Oranges all grow rapidly. The Daffodils, Lilies of the Valley, ic, may be left iu the ground for many years without replanting. Snowdrops, Crocuses and Anemones would all prove useful. THE GREENHOUSE W^here to obtain Witsenia (Miaa C. L. Plmnjitree). — The moat likely place to obtain Witsenia corymbosa is from Messre. Stuart Low and Co., nurserymen, Enfield. A few years (i^d they had a reputation for Krowin^' this plant, and doubtless that reputation exists still. If, however, they happen to have ceased stocking it, they will probably obtain a plant for you. It is not really essential that Eucryphia pinnatifolia should have peat, though it thrives very much better in many gardens if peat is provided. A rather light loamy soil with a little peat added, such as Rhododendrons like, suits it perfectly. The (Knothera you mention thrives best in loamy soil rather on the light than heavy side. Pplmula obconlca dyingr (.Etiquirer).—We have never before met with Primula ohconica behavJiiK in the way descriheil hy you, and cannot learn of tlieir lieing affected by any disease. A auccessful grower of tlieee plants to whom we submitted your question suggests that they may have lieen grown in rather too warm a structure. So-called spopt fpom Chpysanthemum MPS. F. ^V. Vallls (£f. B.).— We have carefully read your explanatory letter regarding your plants of Mrs. F. W. Vallis, and, after carefully inspecting the two blooms submitted to us, we are of the opinion that your plants have uvl sported. We are also of the opinion that the blooms iu question are so deeply coloured owin^r to the late period at which the buds were retained and to the cool, moist weather of the past season. So many Chrysanthemums have varied in this manner during the season now coming to a close. If you still thinls the blooms are ditterent to those of the parent variety, we advise you to ^.'low a few plants next season and submit blooms to the Moral committee of the National Chrysan- tliemum Society. Twfelve new Japanese Chpysanthemums fOP exhibition (/;. /'.).— In reply to your enquiry for the best twelve .Japanese Chrysanthemums for exhibition sent out by the raisers in r.ioT and THUS, we are pleased to recommend the following varieties : Leslie Morrison (rosy crimson), Mrs. Norman Davis (pure white), ilrs. G. F. Coster (orange, shaded apricot), Mrs. L. Thorn (canary yellow), ii-jecham Keeling (amber, shaded red), Master David (richest crimson), Hon. Mrs. Lopes (rich golden yellow), Gladys Blackburn (hutf). Purity (white), Wra. Gee (pink), Mrs. W. Iggulden (rich yellow) and P'rank Payne (blush, shaded mauve). To narrow down the selec- tion to twelve varieties must necessarily exclude many beautiful sorts from tliis list; we have, therefore, made the selection with due regard to a proper proportion of the ditferent colours. We have alscj assumed an autumn or late winter distribution in the years litoT and lorw. ROSE GARDEN. YeUow pamblep Rose (/. H. W. Thomas). — Undoubtedly the best yellow rambler up to date is Goldfinch. Its buds are orange yellow, the open flowers soft yellow, passing as the blooms age to lemon and lemon white. Claire .Tacquier is perhaps a Rose that maintains the yellow colour more in its older blooms, but this Rose is not hardy and, therefore, not so suitable for arches, although in some gardens it grows very freely. ( iardenia has a most delight- ful golden yellow bud, but it does not make quite the same show as Goldfinch. It is, how- ever, a Rose you should possess. It is a most prodigious grower and would ramble over an old dead tree, or on an arbour or rustic bridge, with great effect. Roses for potting: up (IT. E. L.).— Plants for this purpose need to be specially selected. Not only should they be bushy, but they should be budded very close to the root, so that there is no long stem seen above the soil when the plant is potted. Had the plants been properly pinched back in the spring, they would have been bushier. Frau Karl Drusehki is a particularly bad Rose in this respect, and unless carefully stopped quite early, it will make the long, ungainly growths you allude to. Con- sidering the future of the plants, we should at the proper time cut back such plants to within 2 inches of the top of the soil, otherwise you will have a gaunt-looking plant for some time ; in fact, such plants rarely break away at their base unless compelled to do so by hard pruning. 12 THE GARDEN. (January 1, 1910. Yellow Rose for wall and roof of heated greenhouse (C £).).— A good substitute for Mar^chal Kiel is Climbing Perle des Jardins. It is a rampant climber, and when well established blooms freely. Duohesse d'Auerstcedt is too shy-blooming for greenhouse work. It is a grand Rose for a lofty south wall outdoors. Bouquet d'Or is very fine, so also is Mme. Hector Leuilliot, but none equals Mar^chal Niel. Have you tried this latter Rose on a standard ? If a good healthy young Briar is planted and budded with Mar^ohal Niel, it may be grown for years before canker destroys it ; or if you have another climbing Rose in your greenhouse, MarSohal Niel could be budded thereon. It is such a glorious Rose that some amount of trouble is well repaid if it succeeds. There should be a thorough preparation of the soil, that is, in deeply digging it and affording artificial drainage if required ; then the tree grows away unchecked. Often the want of such preparation is a cause of failure. We think the Rose is more likely to do well planted in an inside border than one outdoors. In a greenhouse of low dimensions, some of the grand yellow Roses among the dwarfer growers are the best. Souvenir de Pierre Notting wouldquicklycover an 8 feet to 10 feet wall, and you could have another plant in a large pot or tub ou the staging for covering the roof. Try this Rose or the dwarf form of Perle des Jardins, and you will be pleased with the result. Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses with erect blooms (L. M. £.).— Almost all the Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses are good autumn bloomers, the exception of your list being Gloire Lyonnaise. If your desire is colour effect, you are sadly out in the selection of some of the varieties. We mention what we consider the best sorts of your list, and give the names of others that are better for purposes of bedding. Taking the yellow Roses first, you cannot do better than select Mme. Ravary. This is the best of the golden yellow bedders until we have M Pernet-Ducher's Rayon d'Or. Mme. C. Guinoisseau is good, so also is Mme. Falcot. Mrs. D. McKee is nearer white than yellow, and Souveoir de Pierre Notting does not open well unless very hot weather prevails. Harry Kirk, Mrs. Peter Blair, Lady Roberts and Melanie Soupert are all first- rate. Of the crimsons. Liberty is one we can recommend ; Warrior is good in autumn, so also is Corallina and General Sohablikine, but they are hardly rich enough in colour to differentiate them from the rose-pinks. Richmond is fine, so also is General MoArthur, probably the best of all red bedders. Eearlate is also good. Of the pinks, we can readily select four of your list, namely, Caroline Testout, Earl of Warwick, Killarney and Mme. A. Chatenay. Among rose- pinks Mme. Jules Grolez is pre-eminently the best, and Lady Ashtown is also grand. Lady Battersea and Farbenkiinigin would make up four beautiful kinds. Among the white and blush Augustine Guinoisseau and Viscountess Folke- stone are excellent, and to make four you could plant Pharisaer and La Tosca from your pink, as they are nearer blush white than they are pink, or Mrs. D. McKee. Selection of Roses (£*. S. H.).— Your aelection is a very good one, excepting Lyon Rose as a standard. This we fear you will find expensive, even if it is obtainable in this form. Vou would find i'ommandant Felix Faure a more serviceable crimson Rose than Ben Cant. With these exceptions we cannot improve your list. Molly Shapman Crawford and Happy KiPk (^^«" /-rt'crfjiH't').— The raisers of these two lovely Roses, Messrs. Alex. Dickson and Sons, class them both as Teas. They are both good growers, but you may not think 8o if you purchase the tiny little plants the Continental growers send out. It is much better to patronise our home growers and thus encourage the production of British-raised Roses. The grafted plants may do as well as budded plants eventaally, but you really lose a season, and it is better to pay a shilling or two more and have a good budded plant of a new Rose. Any little scrap of growth is used to graft ou to pieces of root about the size of a quill, whereas the budded Briar has ten times the power in its roots, and is thus able to develop a really good sturdy growth. Moreover, we have seen thousands of these tiny grafted plants succumb during a severe winter, for they have not the stamina to enable them to withstand the rigours of our climate. Ppotectlon fop Rose-beds against stpong ^vlnds (ff. IT.).— You cannot do Ijetter than have some hurdles placed ou the windy side of the beds. We do not think they would be too much shaded, as, of course, the hurdles would only be from 3 feet to 4 feet in height. You can always keep the wichuraiana Roses that are planted in the hurdles in bounds, and, if you preferred, you could plant Roses of the type of Zepherin Drouhin, Alister Stella Gray, Trier, Ac, intermingled with the wichuraianas, which would afford yon a more perpetual blooming. It would certainly be an advantage if you make the beds 1-2 inches wider. Roses and othep ivall shrubs fop Bepwiekshipe (D. M. H.).— The following Roses ou^ht t" do well with you on your south wall : Gloire de Dijon, Souvenir de la Malmaiaon, Tea Rambler, Griiss an Teplitz, Dorothy Perkins and Gheshunt Hybrid (climbing). Suitable flowering shrubs are: .T^sminum nudiflorum, J. officinalis, Cratregus Pyraeantha, Clematis montana, C. montana var. rubens, C. .Tackmanli superba, C. Ville de Lyon, Hydrangea petiolaris, Lonicera japonica, Cydonia japonica, Wistaria chinensis and Forsythia suspensa. For the cottage walls you speak about with a northern exposure, you may try common Ivy, Clematis Jackmauii superba and Ootoneasters buxifoliaand microphylla. The Forsythia will also most likely thrive in the same position. Planting wlchupaiana Roses to oappet Rose-beds (M.). — Yes; you could plant some of the beautiful wichuraiana Roses for the purpose of pegging down among the standard Roses, and the Tulips would grow up among them and do n(^ harm. We should plant varieties that bloom together. For early .Tune the follow- ing would harmonise nicely: Alberic Barbier and Ruby liueen alternately ; for end of .June, Gardenia and Rene Aodri' alternately ; and for .July and August, Dorothy Perkins, White Dorothy and Hiawatha alternately. We should personally prefer to cover the ground with the ever- blooming Polyantha Roses. They can be kept (|Uite low by pruning to the gr lund every year. Aschenbrodel, pink ; Eugiiiie Lamesch, orange ; Perle des Rouges, crimson; and Schneewitchen, white, would make a line contrast. They are really our best low-growing bedding Rosea. Standapd Briaps fpom cuttings {P. G. S.).— The rooting of long pieces of hedge Briars planted as cuttings is nothing new, but we fear you wid lid sadly disappointed at the puny lateral growths such Briars will make the second year. There is not. in the specimen received, suflicient root power : moreover, the Briar itself is much too green to withstand a severe winter. No doubt in three or tour years Briars might be obtained strong enou"h to bud ; but is it wo'-th while taking this trouble .' You would do much better by budding a strong-growing liriar or Rugosa Rose on to Manetti stock, as is done in Holland, and budding into the stem, or " barrel," the second year. Such standards produce marvellous heads, but the stems are very slender and must have the sup- port of a good stake. Providing you can obtain hedge Briars freely, there is no plan better than procuring these for standard Rises. .Many years ago we planted out, some thousands of seedling Briars, good strong ones, with the object of obtaining stindard Briars. All growths were cut away except the strongest, and we certainly obtained some very good Briars, althinigh very slender. Thlpty-six good gapden Roses V. Giij.^',ii). Twelve Hybrid Parpetuals should include Alfred Colomb, Charles Lefebvre, Louis van Houtte, Prince Camille de Rohan, Duke of Edinburgh, Prince Arthur and Senateur Vaisse, nearly all of which are fragrant and vigorous growers and represent the best of the dark-colo>ired Roses; I'lrich Brunner, Mrs. John Laing, Fan Karl Druschki, .Mme. Eugene Verdier and E. V Teas. Twelve Hybrid Teas should include Bessie Brown, Caroline Testout, Duchess of P.irtlau'l. Kaiseriu Augusta Victoria, La France, Jlrs. W. ,1. Grant, .loieph Lowe, .Marquise Litta, Gladvs Harkness, Florence Pemberton, Mme. Wagram and Mamie. Twelve Teas should include Maman Cochet, White Maman Cochet, Souvenir dun Ami, The Queen, .Mrs. Edward Mawley, Muriel Grahame, .Souvenir de Pierre Notting, Marie van lloutte, Anna I ilivier, Lady Roberts, Hon Edith Gilford and Cnmtesse de Nadaillac. To the above you might like to add the new fragrant Hybrid Tea Claudius, which, when shown by Messrs. B. R. Cant and Co. of Colchester on October 12, gained an award of merit. It is an exceptionally flue free-growing and power- fully scented variety. KITCHEN GARDEN. Manupe for Asparagus - beds (Ardent). — Instead of giving your beds a dressing of salt towards the end of March, as is the usual custom, give a similar dressing of nitrate of soda. Towards the second week in April give your beds a further dressing of Peruvian Guano, washing it in with a good soaking of water. About the middle of May give another dressing of guano, washing it in as before. This will greatly help the roots to produce strong grass until the time for cutting ceases, which should be not Uter than the second week in June. A fair dressing of the above manures will be two good handfuls to a yard run of the beds. Dead leaves and Tomato-gpowrlngcroftios). Tomatuna do not succeed well when there is too much leaf-mould in the soil. We think you will do much better by planting jour rtrst crop, at any rate, in boxes as you suggest, and trust to feeding your plants well after you have obtained a good lot of fruit. Heavy crops are pro- duced in this way. In any case, if you plant later where the leaves are, you should add three parts of soil to one part of leaves, and sprinkle a little bone-dust and quicklime over the soil as the mixing goes on. FRUIT GARDEN. Apple shoots for inspection (T. ir.). — There are no living woolly aphides on the branches sent, and if they should reappear it would be well to paint the affected spots with methylated spirit. They are not likely to be very evident before the spring. The tree is also infested with mussel scale, an insect which pro- tects its egg with a small mussel-shaped scale about one-eighth of an inch in length. To reduce the numbers of this pest the tree should be sprayed with alkali wash some time about the end of February, before the buds burst, using 2113. of caustic soda and Jib of treacle to ten gallons of water. Apples spotted (Baroness V. R., Russia). The Apples are badly attacked by the Apple scab fungus, Fusicladium ilendritioum. This fungus attacks fruit, leaves and shoots of the Apple and forms scabby spots on the fruit, which are frequently, subsequently, attacked by other fungi, which cause decay, as they are in the present case. On the leaves the spots are frequently not very noticeable, and on the shoots they are less so, but sometimes cause cracks in the bark and subsequent death. It is important that all dead and dying shoots should be removed as soon as possible and burnt. All diseased fruit should be burnt. Spraying the trees with Bjrdeiux mixture of half the strength used for Po':a,to33 is found to check the disease to a great extent. The spraying should be done just beiore the buds burst, and twice again at intervals of about a month. King: of the Pippin Apple tpee diseased (0. B. W.). — We think your tree has been attacked by what is called the Pear and Apple tree blight. Micrococcus amylovorus. In nearly all cases of attack by this blight it will be found that some predisposing cause of weak- ness to the tree has been in active work favouring its attack for some time before. You say your tree carried a very large crop — too heavy, we surmise, for the power of its roots to properly developand ripen — hence the tree by its weakened condition has fallen a victim to this blight. We also think you will find that dryness at the roots has helped to bring about the collapse. We do not think your Apples will sufl'er much damage, as the small specks you speali of are only on the surface. Each Apple before it is stored should be carefully wiped over with a cloth to make sure that no spores of the fungus are left on. The leaves also as they fall should be burnt, also the prucings. The tree should then be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture. This will kill the fungus. This attack you will find will consider- ably weaken your tree. We advise you to at once take off 4 inches of the surface soil as far as you think the roots extend, and replace with turfy loam chopped up into pieces the size of one's fist, adding to each barrow-load of loam half a gallon of bone-dust, the same of lime and the same of fresh soot, treading it down as firmly as possible and placing on the top of it a layer 3 inches deep of rotten farmyard or stable manure. The winter rains will wash down the goodness from this to the roots of the tree, and next summer it will afford excellent material for the new surface roots of the tree to feed on. Almond fpult fop Inspection iMrg. E. J. C//IIK ii.s(i//).— The Almond fruit you send is quite whole- some, but it appears to be a very poor form or the fruit was badly matured. The Almond of commerce is a thin- shelled variety of the common Almond called dulcis. Many of the Almonds grown in gardens produce excellent nuts, but the shells are very thick and hard. Bitter Almonds are recognised by their bitter taste, which is due to the prussic acid in the fruit. 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'^ -^ ^ 2 z u '£ i^ ™ 2 5 5i ?i 3 S 3 S S S S m j £7)5 pswuu'7 4iDKl>.ffl c^oilo-i^o^ ^5S ip-y.m;7^>pfeL/, ins^SjS- - ;/5 «l ::: tZ S ;S u. yitn E t^ > [5 -- ,:.,..^i-..a,2-- ^^2;:;2Si;22:85i?i?i3;asb s?.s ■=" ui jg w ^ i/i ^ M 52 SB CO CO W Z en = UJ :g Z 03 si oi^^ . ^ «^«'^i Iid-=(n ^ HI'S ^^i £«|5^.s si<-^.ss s -- 0 .-, s£^=;;^i.ynn:;=>£:i./.(j);7=>fu.y, iflS j2 ^ jS t^ ui :Elt |||£|">?E JX-|^ .". ra M [!. 1^ in ni i . 1 oa-i/i^i^o cC[il3C£in ^ou:td u ~, Q tt ti. (/i ui u >:; u -"•"-"""-"""SssssasESSsagsaaass ?■= 5 SE|E JHS cJIjsS SE'^x . illlx^ll Hill iflifi - Sea j<";c.. „,-_ ■Si ^^i%^^t^ ° ^g I |i8 sst^^" S(n =" , o aLj-^i :SiQ « 'sf^'S^Sil i2Sj;=-'"UiEhSh"-»^iii: s2Si=-:r,l!l^pSg:i^ asssaaaaasaassss 12 Yellow Rose for wall a of heated greenhouse (C D. substitute for Mar^ohal Niel is Clim des Jardins. It is a rampant olii when well established blooms freely. d'Auerstcedt is too shy-blooming for work. It is a grand Rose for a lofty outdoors. Bouquet d'Or is very fine. Mme. Hector Leuilliot, but none equal Niel. Have you tried this latter standard t If a good healthy youn: planted and budded with Mar^ohal N be grown for years before canker d or if you have another climbing Rt greenhouse, Mar^ehal Niel could 1 thereon. It is such a glorious Rose amount of trouble is well repaid if i There should be a thorough prepara soil, that is, in deeply digging it am artificial drainage if required ; thei grows away unchecked. Often the w preparation is a cause of failure. Wi Rose is more likely to do well plai inside border than one outdoors. In a of low dimensions, some of the gr£ Roses among the dwarfer growers ar Souvenir de Pierre Notting would quid 8 feet to 10 feet wall, and you could hi plant in a large pot or tub on the i covering the roof. Try this Rose or form of Perle des .Jardins, and yi pleased with the result. Tea and Hybrid Tea Roe erect blooms (L. M. B.). — . the Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses are go bloomers, the exception of your list b Lyonnaise. If your desire is colour are sadly out in the selection of so varieties. We mention what we oonsic sorts of your list, and give the names of are better for purposes of bedding, yellow Roses first, you cannot do I select Mme. Ravary. This is the best o' yellow bedders until we have M Pern Rayon d'Or. Mme. C. Guinoisseau i also is Mme. Falcot. Mrs. D. McKt white than yellow, and Souvenir Notting does not open well unless weather prevails. Harry Kirk, Mrs. 1 Lady Roberts and Melanie Soupert a) rate. Of the crimsons. Liberty is o recommend ; Warrior is good in autu is Corallina and General Schablikin( are hardly rich enough in colour to d them from the rose-pinks. Richme so also is General McArthur, probab of all red bedders. Eearlate is also go pinks, we oan readily select four ol namely, Caroline Testout, Earl of Killarney and Mme. A. Ohatenay. A pinks Mme. Jules Grolez is pre-em best, and Lady Ashtown is also gra Battersea and Farbenkonigin would m beautiful kinds. Among the white Augustine Guinoisseau and Viscoun stone are excellent, and to make fou plant Pharisaer and La Tosca from as they are nearer blush white the pink, or Mrs. D. MoKee. Selection of Roses (.D. S. H.).— Yoi a very good one, excepting Lyon Rose as a at: we fear you will find expensive, even if it is this form. You would find Commandant B more serviceable crimson Rose than Ben Cant exceptions we cannot improve your list. Molly Shapman Cpawfopd ai Kipk {Alan Lawrenn').— The raisers of thf Roses, Messrs. Ales. Dickson and Sons, class Teas. They are both good growers, but you i 80 if you pnrcliase the tiny little plants th. growers send out. It is much better to ] home growers and thus encourage the t British-raised Roses. The grafted plants ma; budded plants eventually, but you really lose it is better to pay a shilling or two more an' budded plant of a new Rose. Any little sera used to graft ou to pieces of root about quill, wliereas the budded Briar has ten tin in its roots, and is thus able to develop sturdy growth. Moreover, we have seen these tiny grafted plants succumb duri o K Z Q < Qi. (- < a Ui a: O u- O a: C 'j- o: X f- 2 < O a. garden! No. 1990. -Vol. LXXIV. Janluuy s lyio CONTENTS. Winter Colours ani> Klowkrs 13 Notes of thb Whhk.. 14 correspondbnob Gloxinias in a cool place 14 French gardening . . ir> Gardbrihg or the Wekl For the South and Soatb Mtdlandi . 15 For the North and North MMltinfli ., \:> KiTCHKN GARI'KN Some good winter vegetables .. .. U' Potato Snowdrop in Pea Webb's New Model Iti Fruit Garden Fruit notes Ifj Greenhouse PolypodiumSchneideri 17 Impatiens Holetii Bougaiuvilleas and their culture .. .. Rose Garden Planting Roses under glass Hoses for unsightly corners Flower Garden Yucca recurvifoiia Flower Garden Polyanthnses from seed (>'/>f/.s' division is Tufted Panics in the rock ffini'-n .. ix Trees and SiiRriis Evergreen shrubd for small gardens . . . 19 The hardy Heaths .. 19 EUablishing the Cle- matis in the open ground If* Gardening for beoinnern Garden work week by week -t ' Planting and propa gating the Ivies How to prune young and old ^'ines . . . . -l THE Town Garden .. 21 New plants The Editor's Table Ware's nurseries . . AHeWBRS TO COREE- 8POBDBNT8 Flower garden . . . . 23 Trees and shrubs Rose garden Greenhouse . . Fruit garden II^LUSTRATIONS. A good crop of Potato Snowdrop 1(> AhvbridFern: PolypodiumSchneideri IT A good greenhouse i)lant ; Impatiens Holatii .. .. 17 A stately hardy plant : Vujca recurvifolia Ih Tufted Pansies or Violas in the rock garden 1!1 Planting and propagating the Ivies 20, 21 EDITORIAL! NOTICES. Bvery department 0/ horticulture w represented in THB Garden, and the Sditor invites readers to scTvi in questions relating to mattes upon which they wish advice from competent authorities. With that object he ivishes to make the "Answers to Correspondents" column a conspicuous feature^ a7Mi, when queries are printed^ he hopes readers %o%U kindly give enquirers the benefit 0) their aseistarvse. Ali communications must be laritten clea/rly on one side only oj the paper, a-nd addressed to the Editor 0/ THE Garden, accompanied by name and address oj the sender. The Editor welcomes photographs, artieUs, and notes, out he will not be responsible for their sn/r return. AU reasonable care, however, will be taken, and where stamps are erulosed, he wiB endeavour to return non-accepted oontributions. As regards photographs, if payment be desired, the Sditor asks that the price required for reproduction be plainly stated. It must be distinctly uiuierstood that only the actual photographer or owner of the copyright uriU be treated with. The Sditor %nU not be responsible j\>r the return of artistic or literary contributions which he may not be able to use, and the receipt of a proof must not be taken as evidence that an articie is accepted. Publication in Thb Gaedsn wHl alone be recognised as acceptance. Offices: SO, TamRiock. Street, Covent Garden, W.C. WINTER COLOURS AND FLOWERS. IT iB generally supposed that nothing brings interest to the garden in winter except the browns of the leafless branches and the evergreen leaves of a few oft-repeated shrubs; but this is incorrect. Winter has its flowers as well as other seasons of the year ; but at this season it is the evergreen and berried shrubs that impart richness to the shrub- bery or wherever they are placed. Much may be done towards giving colour to the garden at this season by retaining the Stems of Hardy Plants. The writer advised years ago the retention of the stems of the Kuotweeds (Polygonum cuepidatum and P. eaohalinense) for the sake of their rich uut brown colour when the leaf beauty had departed. It was the custom to ruthlessly cut these down at a time when the entire garden underwent its autumn clearing up, but at last it was seen that in the dead stems of the Polygonum there was as much beauty of colouring as in the full summer-time. No matter whether it is grouped on the fringe of woodland, in the border or by the lakeside, the Polygonum is a plant that the writer would u^e for its effect alone at this season of the year. Fortunately, in the Royal < hardens, Kew, the plants are left to ful&l their winter mission, and Fuchsia Riooartoni — the best known, perhaps, of its family — has a thicket of light brown stems, a group of this in the dull light of a winter's day giving almost as much pleasure as when the shoots are bespangled with the crimson flowers. Writing of the winter colouring of the stems of hardy plants reminds one of the deep greens of the Sedums and Saxifrages in the rock garden. The Mossy Rookfoils or Saxifrages in particular form dense mats of verdure over the rocks, their rich wealth of foliage falling over to form thick curtains of dense green growth. Crimson and brown shades are painted upon the thick leathery leaves of the larger Rockfoils, the Saxifrages or Megaseas as they are also called, S. cordifolia. S. Straeheyii and others, and when these are placed at the corners of the borders or in some position where their bold growth is desired, no plants are more interesting and picturesque. SlIRDBS. It is among the shrubs that one finds winter flowers of the greatest charm. In the Royal Gardens, Kew, at the present time the Wych Hazel (Hamamelis mollis) is clouded over with its golden-coloured twisted petals, whioh make a brave show in the weak sunshine. Groups of this should be planted near the house to bring the fresh charm of the blossom laden twigs under closer observation. The Hamamelis that has been mentioned seems destined to rival H. arborea, the species that is the more common, in popularity, but there is space for both in our gardens, the latter having flowers of richer colouring with sepals of a more pronounced purplish shade. H. arborea may be associated with the little dense green-leaved Partridge Berry (Gaultheria procumbeiis), which is now covered with crimson berries, a happy winter association of two shrubs that have little in common. Referring again to H. mollis, one of the best- known authorities upon trees and shrubs mentions ; " H. mollis bids to be as good, if not better, than H. arborea, whioh is the most ornamental of the older species. It is a strong- growing shrub, introduced from China by Messrs. J. Veitch of Chelsea in 1898, and differs from all the other species of Hamamelis by having large, broadly ovate leaves, thickly covered with a felty mass of stellate hairs. The flowers are bright yellow and larger than those of H. arborea, and instead of the petals being twisted, as in that species, they are straight with hooked ends. It also flowers earlier than H. arborea. Anyone who grows Hamamelis should obtain this plant. All the Wych Hazels are interesting, and H. mollis is not the least important ; it will probably soon be grown in all good gardens." The Snowberries (Symphoricarpus) are a welcome relief to the green shades of the surrounding shrubs, and are worthy of a better fate than some rough corner in the shubbery. They should be brought — the large fruited species, mollis, in particular — into the garden proper, where they can be seen and the effective- ness of their fruits enjoyed at this season of the year ; Pernettyas, peat and shade loving, and covered with berries that vary in colour accord- ing to the variety, the Winter Sweet (Chiraonan- thus). Winter .Jasmine (.Jasminum nudiflorum). Daphne Mezereum,or the Mezereon, which flowers early or late according to the season, the long- catkined (iarrya elliptica and the Winter Honeysuckles (Lonicera fragrantissima and L. Standishii). A soft glow comes from the Siberian Crab, its fruits still remaining in abundance on the leafless branches ; Cotoneaster rotundifolia, a mass of scarlet berries and a bright spot in the woodland ; and the Heaths (Calluna vulgaris albaSearlei, whioh isdense green in colour and growth, and the purple-shaded C. vulgaris Alportii). The Heaths fill large beds at Kew near the greenhouse and are flowerless, but the growth is pleasant to see during the winter ; they are as welcome as any dwarf evergreen. The golden-leaved Privet if grouped is rich in colour, 14 THE GARDEN. |January 8, 1910. but must not be dotted about the shrubbery, otherwise the result is "spotty." Nor must the Ivy be ignored. Many uses are made of this evergreen climber at Kew ; it covers tree stumps, chains, forms itself into dense mounds and glistens with colour at this time. The Ivy is one of the most valuable of evergreens and, whether it is in the hedgerow or in the garden, is always welcome. These are merely notes, and we should be pleased if our readers would supplement them with the names of shrubs, evergreen or otherwise, that they have found desirable for winter effect. NOTES OF THE WEEK. January 11. — Royal Horticultural Society's Exhibition, Vincent Square, Westminster. Hor- tioaltural Club, Hotel Windsor, (> p.m. Polyanthuses for seed.— In our last issue we omitted to state on the coloured plate of Polyanthuses that these were growing for seed in Messrs. Sutton and Sons' trial grounds at Southeote, Reading. The plate, which has created considerable interest, was prepared from a colour photograph kindly lent to us by Messrs. Sutton. National 'V^egretable Society.— Preparations for the show to be held in September next are being pushed forward with all possible speed, and the committee hope to be able to publish the schedule in the course of a few weeks. In addition to the numerous prizes which have already been mentioned in The Garden, Messrs. Clay and Sons have placed ."i guineas at the disposal of the committee, and this will probably be offered for Potatoes. We hope all our readers will make a point of joining the society. The annual subscription is only 5i., and full particu- lars can be obtained from the hon. secretary, Mr. E. G. Qaick, Kelmsoott, Harrow View, Wealdstone, Htrrow. National Dahlia Society.— The annual general meeting of the members of the above society was held at the Hotel Windsor, Victoria Street, Wrtstminster, on the 21st ult., Mr. E. Mawley, V. M.H., presiding. In the annual report read by Mr. E. F. Hawes, the committee stated that the early show held at the Crystal Palace suffered severely owing to the cold weather, but the later exhibition held at the B itanic Gardens was very good indeed. Two shows are to be held this year, one at the Crystal Palace on September S and 9, and the other at the Royal Botanic Girdens on (if possible) September 20 and 21. A conference on Dihlias has also been arranged at the Essex Hall, Essex Street, Strand, in March. The receipts during the year were £\dl 173. lid., and the expenditure £193 ISs. 8d. Mr. E. Mawley, V. M.H. , was re-elected president, and Messrs. W. Stephens and C. E. Wilklns were added to the list of vice-presidents in place of Mr. John Green and Mr. J. T. BennettPoi' ; Mr. E. F. Hawes was elected secretary, Mr. H. H. Thomas, who had been acting as joint secre- tary, having resigned. Mr. G. Gordon, V. M.H., was elected chairman of the executive committee. Royal Caledonian Hoptlcultural Society, — The notices for the annual general meeting of this society, which is to be held on January 12, contain a recommendation that the following otK'je-bearers be elected for the year in lieu of the Right Hon. Lord Balfour, presi- dent ; Mr. R. Brooman White, vice-president ; and Messrs. George Wood, R. V. Mather and G. P. Berry, councillors, who retire by rotation. Those proposed for the offices are : President, Mr. J. Stewart Clark of Dundas ; vice-president, Sir A. Oliver Riddell ; councillors, Mr. John Highgate, The Gardens, Yester ; Mr. David King, Murrayfield ; and Mr. John Aitohison, Monkwood, Kilgraston Road, Edinburgh. Lord Balfour of Burleigh has been president for several years, and has done the society yeoman service since his appointment, having all along taken the warmest interest in its welfare. The others retiring have also been deeply interested in the society, but it is gratifying to know that such able and earnest successors have been found willing to be nominated. An important notice appears on the agenda, this being : " That a remit be made to the council, with powers, to hold friendly conferences with the council or members of the Scottish Horticultural Associa- tion as to the future of both societies and to report." This question has been thought of for some time, and, provided that several difficulties in the way can be surmounted, the union fore- shadowed would probably be beneficial to the future of Scottish horticulture. From an abstract of the accounts of the society annexed there appears to have been a loss on the working for the year of £97 6g. 5d. , but by various items on the credit side, including the appreciation in value of Metropolitan District Railway Stock, amounting to £57 10s., the net loss is reduced to £27 43. Id. Messrs. Dobbie and Co.'s de- parture from Rothesay. — At the annual social evening of the employees of the above firm, over which Mr. W. Cuthbertson, J. P., senior partner of the firm, presided, reference was made to the departure of Messrs. Dobbie from Rothesay to Edinburgh, a move that is to be made during the present year owing to the expansion of the business. As many of our readers are aware, Messrs. Dobbie have extensive seed grounds at Mark's Tey in Essex. CORRESPONDENCE. (The Editor is not responsible for the opinions expressed by correspondents. ) W^hat is "Greek Lavender" ?-I am anxious to find the real name of a plant I saw this summer in a Cornish garden, called by the gardener " Greek Lavender. " It formed alow, spreading bush with rough grey leaves and spikes nf purple flowers, of much the same colouring as Nepeta violacea, only much larger and more shrubby. It was in full flower in Jane. Perhaps you or your readers could kindly help me. — E. G. H. A Chilian Rosegrarden: Frau Karl DrUSOhki and others.- 1 have read your " Century B.jok of Gardening " and other books with great pleasure, and thought perhaps you would like to hear of my Chilian Rose garden. We get nearly always the new sorts. Frau Karl Drusohki in my garden is 10 feet high, but we do not call it by such an awful name ; we call it La Purissima, which is Spanish for the Feast of the Purification of the Blessed Virgin. Do you not think it a more appropriate name for this lovely white flower ? I have a wall 20 feet long and 12 feet high smothered in Mareehal Niel. I suppose it would be quite unusual at home, but here people object to yellow flowers, as in a gift they are supposed to exercise some evil influence ; not that exictly, but what they call disprecio, which means that you do not appreciate very much the person to whom the gift is made. Most Roses grow splendidly, and there is a dear little bird called the torito, which eats off all the aphides, and so there is no need to syringe. Do vou not wish you had that little bird at home? Etoile de Lyon is the only unsatisfactory one ; the buds refuse to open unless nearly all are picked off. I wonder how it is ; perhaps it is too warm. It only rains here three or four times a year, and watering is done by irrigation, which is rather troublesome, as the water hardens the ground and brings weeds in frightful abund- ance. This is my hete noir. I think there are all the weeds one sees in England and a lot more besides. I thought perhaps you would like to know that your books and articles reach even this out-of-the-way corner of South America and are appreciated.— J. H. Payton, Chili. Where to obtain wattled hurdles. — In your issue of the 18th ult. a correspondent is told that you do not know where wattled hurdles can be obtained. Pre- sumably they are for wind-screens, and the cane fencing sold by R. Da vies, sen.. Limited, Bruns- wick Street, Liverpool, would, I think, be suitable. Each piece would need to be held in position by three stakes, but it is very cheap, and it would probably be worth your corre- spondent's while to get a small piece as a sample. — H. I, Climbing: Dlants and buildlngrs.— In reference to the note on the above (page 627), I agree with your correspondent S Smith in so far that the Ivy, when properly attended to, is not harmful to the walls. Sometimes the Ivy is regarded as an unsatisfactory climber because it harbours various birds or insects, but I have not known a case of walls being rendered damp through it. A few weeks ago I removed a quantity of Ivy from the wall of a dwelling (the occupier of which strongly objected to Ivy in any form), and although rain was falling during part of the time, and the weather had been any- thing but settled for some weeks, the wall, also the root-fibres of the Ivy, were perfectly dry, so much so, in fact, that when pulling the matted growths from the wall the dust rose thickly, although the leaves were wet. — Colin Ruse. The modern D jfTodil.- 1 was glad to see Mr. Jacob's letter referring to my notes on the modern Daffodil ; but I must disclaim any idea of even hinting at such comparisons as he suggests, and I hardly think he has quite caught the meaning of my notes when he holds up Barri conspicuus as the very antithesis of my modern Daffodil. My letter was not written in condemnation of the modern Daffodil in general, but of the tendency towards dishonesty in the modern ways of exhibiting the flower and the danger of encouraging the wrong sort. My appeal was for the encouragement of the right sort by enforcing the strictest rules against faking. The modern Daffodil of the right sort is a superb flower, improving steadily year by year, and fast pushing out the older varieties. Even Barri conspicuus will drop out of the running when some of the fine new varieties become more plentiful, and the same will happen to Autocrat and Frank Miles. I have myself been fortunate enough to raise more than one seedling from the latter which surpass it in every way. Queen Bess I have never found satis- factory. Early it certainly is, but that I think is its only merit. To give just a sample half- dozen of what I call the right sort of modern Diffodils, I would name Seagull, Albatross, Fire- brand, Waterwitch, White Lady and Elvira ; they are all first-rate and should soon be in everybody's garden. There are, of course, many varieties as good, and many perhaps better, but these six are not expensive and will suffije by way of example. Mr. Jacob, I can see, is in sympathy with my object, and I feel sure that he will use his influence in the right direction when the time comes. — W. A. Watts. Gloxinias in a cool place.— The note on the culture of Gloxinias in The Garden for the 23th ult. (page 629) leaves nothing to be desired with regard to the raising of these beautiful plants from seed and their subsequent culture in a warm structure. They may, however, be successfully grown under much cooler treatment, and in this way they are valuable to the amateur with limited glass accommodation. In the first place, it is useless under these conditions to attempt their culture from seed, as the young plants will perish unless they have a fair amount of heat, but given one year old tubers about the size of a penny they will succeed under quite cool treatment. These tubers may be purchased cheaply when dormant as mixed seedlings. Treated much as tub irons .Tantarv 8, 1910, THE GARDEN. 15 Begonias are — that is, given the protection of a greenhouse where fire-heat is dispensed with about the end of April — the Gloxinias, iu my oaee at least, may be depended upon to give satis- faction. True, the flowers are late in opening compared with those in a warmer structure, but they are none the less valuable on that account. Some flowers open in July, but the finest display ooours durine the month of August, and frequently extends well into September. In the summer the plants will thrive quite as well in a cold frame as in a greenhouse. I prefer to pot the tubers in the month of March, using a soil made up of loam, leaf- mould and sand. Pots 3 inches to 4 inches in diameter are suitable for starting the tubers. Cire must be taken not to over-water till they start freely into growth. As these pots get well furnished with roots the plants must be shifted into larger ones, those .5 inches in diameter being a suitable size for most of them. — H. P. Freneh gardening:.— Doubtless "^^y readers of The Garden perused with the same interest that I did the excellent report of Mr. Chapman's lecture on " French Gardening " at Bournemouth on the 7th ult. We have heard and read such wild and inexact statements with respect to the assumed profits derivable from that form of intensive gardening that it was most refreshing to learn from one engaged in that special culture, and, therefore, having great practical knowledge as to its real character, itg necessities, cost and profits. Had not some used this as a means to a personal end, no one would have been so misled as some credulous persons, and women especially, seem to have been. Even when Mr. Chapman stated that a profit of some £60 to £70 per annum might be made, he qualified that remark by adding that two or three years must elapse from the start before that maximum profit can be made. But when it is remembered how great must be the iuitial outlay tor frames, cloches, manure, boxes, biskets, tools and numerous other things, reaching into per acre six times the outlay needed for the working of an acre of ground in the best English fashion, the sum annually set apart to meet depreciation must be relatively great, and, having regard to the original outlay, the profit per acre named is by no means exces- sive. Mr. , Chapman quotes the price of manure as being in this country 53. per ton ; that is, in my experience, a low estimate. Twenty years ago I used to pay lOj. per cartload fresh from the London mews, the weight perhaps '25owt. I cannot conceive, with the great shrinkage of horses in the metropolis, that manure requisite to furnish heat can be purchased at a smaller price now. Certainly it may be delivered at suburban railway stations at less cost ; but if it has to be carted a mile or two, then the cost is greatly increased. Another element in the production of profit is sunshine, and, as Mr. Chapman told his hearers, in France that element was much more powerful early in the year than it is with us. That fact enabled him to show that, although he is gardening on the South Coast, yet the French growers can beat ours by a fortnight in our own markets. How much in the matter of successful trading that means home growers can testify. Looking at the initial outlay, the amount of labour required, the risk and the com- parative limitation in the crop variation con- sequent on this French gardening, is it worth adopting here ? Nothing that can be done in the open can compensate for the absence of sunshine. Had we that element as France has it, and with our own ordinary appliances, how much more we could accomplish now, and with less risk and cost. If such a season as that of the past year has been disastrous to many phases of gardening, it is obvious that intensive culture, so-called, must have suffered more ; but its promoters are careful to tell us little on that head. To Mr. Chapman great thanks are due. Would that he would give more of his practical knowledge. —A. D. GARDENING OF WEEK. THE FOR THE SOUTH AND SOUTH MIDLANDS. Fruits Under Glass. PEACHES. — Early Peaches that are com- mencing to open their flowers must have less moisture in the house. Overhead syringing must be stopped and a more buoyant atmosphere kept up. On bright days, when the pollen is ripe, they will require to be brushed over lightly with a rabbit's tail to ensure pollination. Gucumhers. — Plants in bearing must not be overcropped at this season of the year. Syringe about midday to keep down red spider, but only on bright days, or else in damp localities the plants will probably get mildew. Should this appear, dusting the leaves with flowers of sulphur is very beneficial. No time must be lost in making a fresh sowing. Improved Telegraph is one of the best for an early supply. MrJiiiis. — These should now be sown, choosing a good early variety, such as Ringleader, for the work. Beauty of Syon and Hero of Lockinge are also excellent for this first crop. S/rawbirries. — Get in batches of these to follow as required. An early lot should be coming into bloom now, and it will be necessary to pollinate with a rabbit's tail, doing it very lightly so as not to bruise them in any way. The Herbaceods Borders. During open weather the overhauling of the borders may be carried on. It is not necessary to dig up all the plants annually ; in fact, it is very harmful to many choice subjects. The coarser-growing plants, such as Asters, Helian- tbuses and Phloxes, that have become crowded should be lifted, divided and put back again. In dividing the roots bear in mind that the out- side growths make the best plants ; so it is best to out off and plant the outside portions of the clumps and throw the middles away, that is pro- viding extra stock is not required. Shrubisbry Borders and Beds. Although autumn is by far the best time to plant deciduous shrubs, it is not yet too late. In making new beds or borders the great thing is to have all the ground trenched and well broken up. The difference in the growth of shrubs planted in well-broken ground to those planted in hard, unbroken ground is very marked. Grouping the various subjects is the best plan, for they are seen to much better advantage than when planted singly. The number of flowering shrubs is very large, and the landscape gardener has such a selection to choose from that there should be no monotony or same- ness in the work. Top-dressing is very beneficial to all shrubs, and old hot-bed material is very suitable. After dressing the beds and borders may be lightly forked over, care being taken not to go too deep, or many roots will be broken and exposed. In remodelling and transplanting, to give more room where plants have become overcrowded, great care is necessary in lifting. Kitchen Garden. (hiioiis. — To get good exhibition Onions, seed may be sown now in gentle heat, either in pots or boxes. Sow the seeds thinly and cover with a sheet of glass. As soon as germination occurs place the box or pot close to the glass to induce sturdiness. This also applies to Leeks if good roots are wanted. Cauliflowers. — A small sowing of the earliest varieties may be made under glass in a mild temperature, an early Peach house or vinery being a very suitable place. Early Forcing, Snow- ball and Early Giant are excellent for an early supply. E. C. PooLEY. (Head-gardener to C. Bewes, Esq.) Onu/iiii Hall Gardens, Plymouth. FOR THE NORTH AND NORTH MIDLANDS. KiTiUEN Garden. 0\viN(! to the long spell of unfavourable weather from October till Christmas, work in this depart- ment is in rather a congested state in most gardens. In favourable weather push on dig- ging and trenching, as the more time the soil can have the benefit of the elements the better will he crops grown on it during the coming season. This is more important where the soil is of a damp or heavy texture. Leave the surface in a rough condition, so as to expose as much of it as possible to sun, wind and frost. During hard frost wheel on manure, as by so doing much time is saved when the digging is in hand. Some object to laying out the manure in barrow-loads any length of time in advance of digging, but this objection can be overcome to a certain extent by making large heaps at greater intervals. Fruit Garden. Pruning is also somewhat behind in many places, so on fairly mild days this should receive attention. It is an excellent plan to dig in the early part of the day, and prune during the time the sun gives a little warmth to the fruit plots. A return to the spade in the afternoon when it gets cold is a very economical way of planning the work. The staff under these conditions get through much more work, as it is certain that no one can stick closely to his work when shivering with cold. The Shrubberies. Any pruning required in this department can now be seen to. The best tool to use is a good sharp knife. Hedge shears are only to be employed on hedges or for trimming Ivy. In most cases it will only be necessury to cut back straggling growths that epoil the symmetry of the bushes. If skilfully performed there will be no wounds visible when the work is finished. At the same time remove all dead wood, and any bushes that have outgrown their space may bn cut over or removed altogether. Planting of the commoner evergreens can well be proceeded with ; but Hollies and Rhododendrons are much more successfully transplanted during the first half of April. Deciduous trees and bushes of all kinds may also be planted now. Plants Under Glass. Hippeastrums. ^Many of the bulbi will be showing the points of the flower-spikes, and should be placed in a light and rather warm structure. Water must be given sparingly for a time. If it is wished to have a fine display of these flowers at any one time instead of allowing them to bloom at random, as they come on of their own accord, the more forward plants should be retarded by keeping them in an ordinary green- house temperature, while the more backward bulbs are placed in the stove to hurry them a little. Cyclamen. — These are very useful at thi.f season, and if given a night temperature of about 45° they last a long time in beauty and remain quite free from the troublesome mite, which often attacks the leaves when a high temperature and dry atmosphere are given. lied spider, too, is to be feared under the latter conditions. The house should be vaporised occasionally to keep all safe. Seedlings raised last autumn must not be over-watered, and a slight stirring of the surface of the soil at times is very beneficial. Begonia Qloirede Lorraine. — The most forward batch will now be nearly finished blooming, and should be cut over so as to induce the produc- tion of good early cuttings. Place in a rather moist and warm house, and growth will soon start. Liter plants may now have a rather lower temperature, so as to retain their freshness as long as possible. Gentle feeding with liquid manure is very beneficial, while soot-water, used in a clear state, deepens the colour. C. Blair (Gardener to Setou Thomson, Esq.) Preston fTouse, Linlithgow. 16 THE GARDEN. [January 8, 1910. THE KITCIHEN GARDEN SOME GOOD WINTER VEGETABLES. THE classes for vegetables at the early Ueoember meeting of the Royal Hor- ticultural Society brought out some splendid exhibits, and though the competition was not large, those staged were remarkable for their quality. As a lover of good vegetables I am pleased to note that mere size does not now find so much favour as formerly. This is a step in the right direction, and one which The Gardkn has brought prominently before its readers. With so many good vegetables to select from, there is no need for coarseness ; there is, indeed, a loss, as in their preparation much waste occurs. I specially noted the splendid roots of Beet ; here Cheltenham Green Top was superb in the premier exhibit, and it demon- strated how this root could be grown, as to get it in such perfect condition requires care in culture. Brussels Sprouts were another object-lesson. I was pleased to note the great advance from the huge growths to those staged, which were of a close, compact build, with small or medium, bullet-like Sprouts of the best quality, and I POTATO SNOWDROP. Amoni: the many Potatoes that were great favourites a decade or so ago was the second early white kidney variety known as Snowdrop. It was at that time a reliable cropper, and was not generally so badly attacked by disease as some others. With the introduction of many new varieties Snowdrop has had to take a second or third position, and probably in a few years" time it will scarnely be grown at all. This passing of favourite Potatoes manifests in an unmistakable manner the survival of the fittest, and is not to be wondered at seeing that the method of reproduction adopted is a vegetative and not a generative one. Sooner or later the stamina must go, and this accounts for varieties that could at one time be relied upon to give good crops and resist disease gradually dying out. I do not believe that many of the new varieties now introduced are any better than some of the older sorts were at the time they were put into commerce, only the older ones have deterio- rated and the new varieties are better than they are at th" present time. Occasionally, as in the case of Up-to-Date, we get a variety that is so vigorous and coarse when first raised that it is actually improved by cultivation for a few years, its coarse vigour being reduced by deterioration. #^^<^ A OOOU CROP OK POTATO SNOWDROP. mJ^. noted that the excellent Dwarf Gem was the favourite Sprout, both in the plants as grown and the gathered Sprouts shown on dishes. The other variety of this vegetable staged was Exhibi- tion, which is larger that Dwarf Gem, but by no means coarse, and an ideal vegetable. I expected to see much better competition in the Celery class, as though the season has been a trying one for growers, it has been good for Celery as regards moisture, and the class should have found more favour. At the Colchester Show early in November there was enormous quantities of this vegetable, whereas at Westminster there was only one exhibitor, who staged Solid White in splendid condition. In the pink or red class Superb Pink and the old but excellent Standard Bearer were shown. We do not in this country appear to make much headway with winter salads. I admit, as regards frame culture in the spring, we have made great progress, but there was only one exhibit staged in the class for two varieties of Endive, where there should have been good competition. Endive is not ditiioult to grow by any means, and now, with so much glass at command, there should be a wealth of material at this season. The other exhibits were Carrots and Savoys. The roots staged were perfect and by no means coarse, and the same remarks apply to the Savoy Cabbages. G. Wythbs. which in such an instance leads to refinement. I think it would be interesting to hear from readers who now grow such one-time favourites as Early Rose, White Elephant and Magnum Bonum, and to learn the success achieved. That the variety Snowdrop has not yet lost all its vitality is proved by the accompanying illustra- tion, which represents a crop lifted last autumn. PEA WEBB'S NEW MODEL. Those who are looking for a first-class Pea of the second early section will find it in the one named above. Last year I grew in Essex a row some 7 yards long, and it proved to be a Pea of excellent quality and splendid cropping properties. The large pods somewhat resemble Gladstone in shape, and the texture is of a similar smoothness, each being filled with from eight to ten Peas of large size and good green colour. The haulm grows from 3 feet 6 inches to 4 feet high, and with me was covered with pods from within a foot of the ground to the top, these being mostly borne in pairs. A feature of this Pea last summer was the long time it continued to crop, pods being available for picking for six weeks. If this variety maintains the high standard of last season it will become one of the most popular second early sorts that we have. H. THE FRUIT GARDEN. FRUIT NOTES. DIGGING BETWEEN TREES. — 1 Weeds are apt to become altogether I too numerous beneath our fruit ^ trees, and it is imperative to success that they shall be removed. Opinions differ as to the best method of procedure to this end, but there is little doubt that the most expeditious manner is to dig over the entire area, turning in the weeds in the process. Some growers urge that this practice must necessarily damage immense num- bers of valuable fibrous roots, but there is at least some doubt as to whether any serious injury results. Many of the upper roots are annual in character, and if they are not torn away in culti- vation perish naturally, so that as far as they are concerned no difference can accrue. Of course, if the working were as deep as it would be if one proposed to grow Onions, the permanent roots would undoubtedly suffer and the prospect of prolonged success with the trees would be mate- rially reduced. Apart from this, shallow digging tends to do good and can scarcely do any harm. American Blkjht. — This is one of the com- monest of all the pests on our fruit trees, and no efibrts must be spared to effect a perfect clearance, as it does vast injury. During the summer it is attacked by the aid of paraffin and other solu- tions, or in limited areas by painting the clusters of enemies with sweet oil, while in the winter real good is done towards its extirpation by the thorough washing with caustic soda which all the best cultivators now give. It is, however, absolutely necessary in cases of serious infesta- tion that special attention shall be directed to the roots during the time that the trees are at rest in the winter, for the insects make them- selves quite comfortable on the upper layers of roots, and if they are permitted to remain in undisputed possession they will appear plenti- fully on the branches in the summer. There- fore, the roots should be bared, and if the pests are found, each one should be dressed with a drop of methylated spirits or pure paratiin, which will quickly destroy them. The operation is a little tedious, but it has the merit of being absolutely effectual. Stored Fruit-'. — No opportunity must be lost when there is a little time to spare to examine all the fruit in the store. It is immaterial whether it is in the most efficient of structures or in a room of the dwelling-house ; the inspec- tion must be done, and the greater the frequency at this season of the year the better. When once decay sets in and is allowed to proceed in one fruit, the trouble will certainly spread quickly to others, and large numbers may be lost in a com- paratively short time. Look them over as often as time can be found, and thus save worry and disappointment. Currants. — It is important that the pruning of these, assuming that it was not all completed in the autumn, shall be finished as quickly as possible, or the results in the ensuing season will not come up to expectations. Commence with the Black varieties, cutting out old wood first and then such young shoots as cannot be properly accommodated. The object should be to leave the branches so thinly disposed when the work is done that every bud will have the full benefit of light and air. With the Red and White varieties the system is entirely different, since these carry their crops on spurs on the old wood, and the pruning must, therefore, be to the spurs, the young wood being practically all removed. In all cases the extremities of the new shoots will be reduced in length according to the space available for extension. When the amount of room is fully occupied, only .3 inches or so of new wood will be retained each season ; but where there is plenty of room, 0 inches, or even more than that, will remain if it is well ripened. .lANlARY 8, 1910 TliE GAKDEJ^J. 17 hands of the hybridiat it has proved useful, for hybrids showing a great range of colour have been raised. Cuttings root readily at almost any time if placed in a warm propagating- case, and the plants may be grown on rapidly in a compost made up of two parts loam, one part leaf-mould and half a part sand. K. ^^ A HVERID FERN : POLYPDDIDM SfHNEIDERI, Plan'TINi:. — January is not a satisfactory month for planting fruit trees as a general rule, but when they have been heeled in and are waiting for attention the opportunity of spells of suitable weather when the soil is in favourable condition should be seized for getting the work forward. Later on the pressure of various operations will become so great that there will be danger of the planting being rushed through, and this is a thing which never pays with fruit trees. Fruit-orowbr. THE GREENHOUSE. POLYPODIUM SCHNEIDERL THIS is an interesting Fern of hybrid origin, a form ot Polypodium vulgare and P. aureum being generally con- sidered as its parents. The fronds are curiously cut up into unequal-sized seg- ments, and are crested at the ends. It grows from 1 \ feet to 2 feet high, the fronds spring- ing from underground rhizomes. A certain amount of the glaucous colouring seen on P. aureum is noticeable on the fronds, but nothing like so bright as in that species. P. Schueideri grows well in a cool house and forms an excellent room plant. It thrives in the usual compost allotted to Ferns and may be increased by division in spring. IMPATIENS HOLSTII. This is one of a number of beautiful species of Impatiens which have been introduced from Africa within the last few years. This particular one is found in the vicinity of the eastern shore of Lake Victoria Nyanza, and has been in culti- vation about ten years. In habit it is very similar to the old, well-known I. Sultani, and thrives under similar conditions. It, however, differs from that plant by having striped red stems and scarlet flowers. The flowers are also rather larger than those of I. Sultani, the largest ones being If inches across. It grows between ■2 feet and .3 leet in height and forms a shapely bush \\ feet to 2 feet or more through. In the BOUGAINVILLE AS AN J) THEIR CULTURE. The amateur who is able to main- tain a temperature of 48° to 5.')° in his greenhouse during the winter months can grow the Bougainvillea to perfection ; indeed, I am quite certain that many amateur gardeners (and some professional gardeners, too) entertain erroneous ideas as to the right treatment of this most beautiful and tropical-looking plant. I have found many specimens growing in plant stoves — houses in which an average temperature of about <)S° is maintained — that could not be compared with those culti- vated in a warm greenhouse for ex- cellence of foliage and flower. In the hot, close atmosphere of the plant stove the leaves were small and delicate, and the flowers equally so and very pale in colour. In the greenhouse the leaves are large, thick and leathery, and the flowers are also extra large and very richly coloured. I have grown flowers of B. glabra that have been ao highly coloured as to be mistaken for those of that darker-coloured variety B. apeciosa, often called apectabilis. Both varieties, B. glabra and B. speotabilis, should be grown in the greenhouse. In the South of France the Bougainvillea grows on the walls of some of the cottages, I am told, and the colour of the flowers is very deep. In Morocco the plants are also grown in the open air ; a bloom brought from Morocco and given to me was of a most beautiful colour. I carried it in my pocket-book for about eight years, and at the end of that time the colour was almost as rich as when I placed the flower there. Of course, plants can be grown in large pots or tubs and used as sub- tropical bedding plants in our flower gardens in summer-time, but both leaves and flowers are very small. The same results follow such a method of culti- vation in a greenhouse. The most satisfactory way of treat- ing these plants in the green- house is to make permanent borders for them either at one end of the structure or under the stage. I have so grown them and had the plants in flower for nearly five months, the average length of the flower - sprays bting .3 feet 6 inches ; many of them measured 5 feet in length. The border should be 3 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Use fibrous loam and old mortar rubble only, one bushel of the latter to four of the former. Surface dressings of manure and feeding must be given while the plants are growing freely. The plants must be trained under the roof glass like a Grape Vine. The present is a good time for planting a strong specimen. When the flowers have faded the side shoots must be out back to within 1"> inches of the main rod. This work will be done in November. In February the remainder of the side shoots must be cut hard back in the same way that a Grape Vine is pruned. In due time new shoots will grow strongly and flower freely. Lessen the water supply to the roots in the autumn, and only give one or two waterings in the winter. When new shoots grow, water freely, and espe- cially so in the summer. The shoots, depending gracefully from the roof, have quite a tropical appearance. B. THE ROSE GARDEN. PLANTING ROSES UNDER GLASS. A WELL-GROWN Rose tree in a green- house or conservatory affords the owner a vast amount of pleasure. It is quite a mistake, made by many ^ lovers of the Rose, to apply a lot of heat to a plant grown under glass. Heat will cause rapid growth undoubtedly, but the shoots do not bear flowers of a satisfactory character freely. Too often the Roses are grown under the hottest portion of the roof, and then the only time of the year when really good blooms are obtained is in the early part of the spring. True, fresh blooms are most welcome then, but they can be grown equally well, if not better, at that period on plants trained under a cooler part of the roof glass. Those plants trained under the hottest portion of the roof do not, as a rule, bear many good flowers again until the early part of the autumn ; but the plants growing in the naturally cooler portion of the structure give a good supply of flowers in the summer-time as well as again in the autumn. I have seen Rose trees that were trained under glass roofs with a direct south aspect nearly stripped of all their leaves at midsummer. They A GOOD GKEBSHOrSE PLANT : IMPATHINS HOMTn. THE GAKDEN. January 8, 1910 had been eaten away by red spider and thrips. 0£ course, there are many amateurs who are obliged to train the branches under glass roofs facing the south, on account of lack of other positions. In such circumstances it is a wise plan to train the shoots quite 2 feet away from the glass if possible, as then the foliage can be maintained in a healthier condition. Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses are the most satis- factory for growing under glass, and these thrive best in a somewhat lighter soil mixture than that suitable for Hybrid Perpetuals A good body must be provided in such soil, however, and sweet fibrous loam is the best for this purpose. The border need not be a very deep one; indeed, a somewhat shallow border is the most satis- factory, on account of its cold position under the stage, or beneath the floor of the house. Thorough drainage is essential. Fibrous loam, leaf-soil, road-drift and a small quantity of old mortar rubble form the best compost. If road- drift cannot be procured, substitute sand. The present is a good time to put in the plants, and they should not be unduly subjected to artificial heat; if frosts are kept out of the house the plants will do well. The following are grand varieties to grow : Climbing Niphetos, pure white ; Climbing Perle ^,, des Jaidius, pale yellow ; Marechal ^ Niel, golden yellow; Mme. Berard, f^ fawn, lovely leaves ; L'Ideal, metallic "V''; red and yellow ; Belle Lyonnaise, canary •'' ■ yellow, tinted salmon ; Cheshunt Hybrid, cherry carmine; Climbing Belle Siebreoht, imperial pink ; and Reine Marie Henriette, red cerise. B. THE FLOWER GARDEN. YUCCA RECURVIFOLIA. YUCCAS are effective in all gardens on account of their attractive habit, either for their foliage alone or for the handsome inflorescences of greenish white flowers which they produce. They are most striking when planted in large groups, although they are usually seen dotted about singly in all sorts of places. They are seen at their best when planted so that they have a natural background of foliage to show off their graceful if rigid flower-spikes. The two most generally grown Yuccas are Y. gloriosa and Y'. reeurvifolia. The former has rigid leaves, ■2 feet to 3 feet long, armed with a stiff, spiny point, and bears large panicles of white flowers tinged with purple. The latter is somewhat 3 ^f. ROSES FOR UNSIGHTLY CORNERS. Now that the time of felling trees is here, I would recommend all who are able to secure some of the root stumps to place such in a mound in any corner of the garden where one would desire to have a pretty screen to any building or other object. Before the root stumps are set up the ground should be deeply trenched and well manured ; then range the loots in such a fashion as taste may dictate. The larger the stumps are the better, for they can then withstand any gales that arise. In the spring of 1909 I arranged some roots that were so large that it took three or four men to move them. Four of these made a fine conical block, and against these we planted four Roses. Whether one plants all one variety or a number of sorts to bloom simultaneously or at different periods is also a matter of individual taste. Personally I prefer one sort. What could be more lovely than a mound of such Roses as Hiawatha, Dorothy Perkins, Goldfinch, Coquina and Ren^ Andr6 V Obtain plants on their own roots, and do not prune them at all for the first two or three years. Even in one year they will nearly cover the blocks, and in many cases long growths push out from the base that will cover many square feet of surface if allowed to do so. I can imagine some such mounds in open spaces in woods and game coverts, or in dells in the vicinity of the rock garden. A few mounds even in the park, surrounded by iron palings to protect them from cattle, would be a charming feature of any estate, and many of the varieties can display themselves much better rambling upward like they would do than when struggling through grass and weeds. Wherever they are located two details should be kept in mind. In the first place, see that the plants have a good deep root- run, and in a spot where they can receive a fair amount of sunshine when we get it ; and in the second, secure the plants on their own roots. Then there will be no fear of suckers. P. A ST.^TELY HARDY PLANT; VOCCA RK< UKVIFOLIA. more elegant in habit, on account of the arching or pendulous tips of the older leaves. The leaves are often 3 feet or more in length, while the stems reach to a height of 5 feet or more. The plants do not seem at all particular in their requirements, as any loamy soil of a light nature agrees with them, while they will grow in heavier soil if it is well drained. They enjoy a warm, sunny place in a sheltered position, and while they are perfectly hardy, they are often damaged by snow or excessive moisture settling in the crowns in winter. This causes the growing points to rot, and sometimes the whole plant, if not strongly staked, will be broken down by the weight of snow. They can be readily propagated by cutting up the fleshy roots into short pieces. These should be placed in a mild bottom-heat, when they will soon make nice plants. VV. Irving. POLYANTHUSES FROM SEED VERSUS DIVISION. OpimoN.s differ considerably on this point, but let anyone think for a moment of the way Nature keeps up its stock, and they should be convinced of the advantage that seed has over division. Seldom does anything become more robust by artificial treatment in any way, and this rule holds good with these plants. In a natural state there is no one to lift and divide them, and but seldom does one meet with weak plants grown thus. In the West Country, where the common Cow- slip and Primrose abound, I have freijuently observed what vigour these have compared to those which have been transplanted to gardens and subjected to division and coddling. l)uring my long experience in cultivating and raising Polyanthuses, I have often met with cultivators who believed in division, but I have never seen plants obtained by this method having the constitution possessed by those raised from seed. I am aware that under some special circumstances it may be advisable to divide, and I have often tried this when having an extra good variety, but I have always found that the vigour could only be retained by resorting to seed. During the past autumn I have had many thousands of plants of all ages replanted, and what has impressed me most is how they weaken after the third yeir. Another thing noticeable is how these aged plants have a ten- dency to root up the stems of the crowns. This is probably due to leaves, sand and other soil getting into and among them and rotting. Some may say that they cannot be relied on to come true from seed. Strictly this is correct, but I have proved that they reproduce with a very small percentage not true to parentage when proper care has been taken in securing the seed. If wanted for beds it is a simple matter to raise them from seed, selecting them to colour the first ^ season. Personally I see no disadvan- *™ tage to a variedness in height, provided they are true to colour, unless the grower is fastidious and requires them on the carpet bedding lines. Naturally they do not grow in this way. Another advantage seedlings possess is that one often obtains a new shade of colour, and there is much interest in watching a few hundred seedlings fqr any new feature they may develop. The raising of seedlings is a simple matter. Sown in autumn the seed ger- minates at once. Both autumn and spring sowings have their own merits. I have found that they may be sown from September till the end of April and bloom the next season. So many fail to obtain good results by allowing the seed to get dry when germination has begun, or by allowing it to float on the water when first sown and thus remain on the top of the soil. Others fail through covering the seed too deeply. J. Crook. TUFTED FANSIES IN THE ROCK GARDEN. For years the Tufted Pansies (Violas) have been used extensively in the hardy flower garden, but all too frequently simply as an edging to large beds and borders. I am glad the practice is falling into disuse of planting the Tufted Pansies in the autumn with the object of lifting them in the succeeding early summer after they have provided a display of their beautiful blossoms throughout the spring season. It is just at this time, and for a few months longer, that these Jam Ai;v 8, 1910.) THE GAKDEN. 19 plants are at their beat, and I fail to see the wisdom of lifting them in order to make room for less interesting tender plants. For this reason, too, I welcome the planting of these Tufted Pausies in the rook garden. Here they seem to luxuriate, the rocks and stones used in the formation of these gardens affording shelter from the extreme heat of the sun in the summer and at the same time ensuring a cool and moist root-run, two essentials in the successful cultiva- tion of these Pansies. The rock garden, by the use of Tutted Pansies, is made interesting for a much longer period than is usual, and if the plants are gone over periodically, and spent blossoms and ■seed-pods removed, they will retain their fresh- ness and beauty for a long time. D. B. Cr.\ns. TREES AND SHRUBS. SMALL EVEKGREEN SHRUBS FOR GARDENS. THE effect produced by the judicious planting of evergreen shrubs is at no time more noticeable than dur- ing the winter months. Many owners of small gardens might e.xtend the planting of such shrubs, thereby adding interesting features at this season. In many gardens there are bare places where vain endeavours have been made to establish flowering plants or turf. In many of these places the planting of a few evergreen shrubs would overcome the ditHculty, by producing a permanent and pleasing finish in place of what has been an eyesore and a source of annoyance. Space does not permit me giving a long list of suitable plants, but the following may generally be relied upon both for hardiness and effect. Readers of The Garden may frequently find many ever- greens described therein suitable for planting in various positions. Many natu- rally tall-growing plants may be kept in check by careful pruning where the space at their command is inadequate for their full development. Before planting the ground should be prepared by deep digging or trenching, and it the soil is clayey, leaf -soil, road-sand, &c. , should be incor- porated with it and some light soil placed around the roots when planting. Av.ruha. — The familiar mottled-leaved variety, A. japonica, is well known, but deserves mention here, as it is an accom- modating plant, thriving in partial shade under trees, &c. , and succeeds in town gardens. There are also green-leaved sorts, and where space permits and a collection of the male and female forms are grouped together, the latter will produce a quantity of large scarlet, oblong berries. Berbe.riit Aqu'Jo/iuiii and its dwarf form, B. repens, are most useful ; the glossy foliage of the latter turns to a reddish purple colour in winter. This plant succeeds well under the shade of trees. Several varieties of Box (Buxus), including the gold and silver striped forms, are very ornamental. Euonymua japonirus is one of the most popular plants for town gardens. There are numerous variegated varieties, including white and yellow variegations, also some tinted with red. Gaultheria procuml>eiu and G. Shallon are worthy of more extended cultivation. The former is a diminutive plant 4 inches to 6 inches high, producing red berries, which seldom drop until the spring. G. Shallon grows from 2 feet to S feet high, is suitable for planting in shady positions and produces purple berries. These plants succeed in a sandy loam or peaty soil. Hollies rank among the most useful of ever- greens. There are numerous varieties with deep green or variegated leaves. The red berries of the Holly are familiar to al), and there are also varieties with bright yellow berries. Hollies should be planted in April or May in well-pre- pared soil. The golden form of Ligustrum ovalifolium, llohhn Privet, is very bright during the winter : it is not fastidious as to soil, but should be given a light position. The plant takes a vast amount of food from the soil, and for this reason should not be planted too near choicer shrubs or the better-class herbaceous plants. The Butrher'8 lironm (Ruscus aculeatus) is a suit- able dwarf shrub for covering bare spaces under trees, and grows well in town gardens. Skimniia japonira is a pretty little shrub, especially when covered with its bright scarlet berries. Vihwmum Tinus i>r Laurualinus is a most valuable winter - flowering evergreen shrub, flourishing in various soils, preferably those that are rather sandy or otherwise well drained. Vinran (Periwinkles) are low trailing plants of a shrubby character for edging groups of larger subjects ; they also thrive well in shady places. There are white and yellow variegated forms, which are excellent for growing in tubs with sorts, and the cost would not run into more than an average of 8d. or '.Id. each. To those who are uninitiated in the culture of Heaths and who desire to begin a collection, I would suggest the following as likely to please and give satisfac- tion : Krica arborea (Tree Heath), white- flowered ; K. oodonodes, a Tree Heath covered with white flowers, slightly tinged with pink ; E. cirnea, pink flowers ; E. ciliaris, dwarf, crimson, 1 foot ; E. cinerea (purple), E. c. alba, E. c. atrosanguinea, E. c. pallida, E. e. rosea, E. c. rubra, all !• inches ; E. c. spioata, 1 foot ; E. mediterranea hybrida, E. m. alba, E. m. larnea, E. m. rubra, E. miweana, E. vulgaris, E. alba, E. .\lportii, E. argentea, E. aurea, E. deoumbens, E. Hammondii, E pilosa, E. pygmea and St. Dabeoc's Heath, white and purple Mordands, Dmis. .loiiN McWatt. ESTABLISHING THE CLEMATIS IN THE OPEN GROUND. The Clematis, whether grown as a pot plant or in the open border, is very beautiful. But not a few would-be growers find, I believe, as we have TDFTED P.\NSIKS OR VIOLAS IN THE ROCK (iABDEN. taller-growing evergreens for decoration during the winter months. Colin Ruse. THE HARDY HEATHS. The Heaths are most beautiful small-growing shrubs and may be had in bloom praotioally the whole year ; yet how seldom one sees a Heath border in any garden. Although peat-loving plants, they will grow and do well in any good common garden soil to which a little leaf-mould has been added. They should be planted in groups in autumn or early spring in an open place exposed to the nun. The Heaths all flower very freely, and the flowers remain a long time on the plants. They are easily increased, either by layering or pulling to pieces and planting immediately. There are a great many varieties, but a fairly representative collection might be got together by selecting thirty or forty different done, a difficulty in establishing the plants out of doors, especially where the locality is ex- cessively damp or unusually cold. The following practical hint, which has been of service to us, may, therefore, be helpful to readers of The Garden who desire a more sure way of success. Prepare the place in the usual way by making the soil rich and incorporating mortar rubble ; then make the hole for planting a little way (say, H inches) to the left or right of the spot where the plant is really required to grow up. Next make a little trench and bend down into it the stem of the Clematis, burying it several inches under ground and causing it to rise again at the required place. In burying the stem use sandy soil, and make it tirm. A little patience, and in due time a splendid lot of roots will be emitted from the covered stem, thus giving the Clematis an added source of vitality. Hiyhgate. Q. T, 20 THE GARDEN. [January 8, 1910. GARDENING FOR BEGINNERS. PLANTING AND INCREASING THE IVY. GARDEN WORK WEEK BY WEEK. KITCHEN GARDEN.— Those beginners in gardening who invest in a frame will naturally wish to make the fullest use of it, and to do bo at this season it is essential to form a good hot-bed on which to place it. The materials for making the hot-bed should now be got together, the best undoubtedly being one- half long strawy and fresh stable manure, and the other half freshly gathered and unfermented leaves. Many, however, cannot procure leaves in this condition, and must, perforce, rely on manure of the kind mentioned above. It will be necessary to secure enough to form a solid mass '2 feet thick at the top end and 1 foot wider each way than the frame, and before being 111 ride up into the bed it should be thoroughly turned and shaken up every other day for a week or ten days. In making the bed form a good slope towards the south, so as to catch as much sun as possible, and tread the whole firm as the work proceeds. After placing the frame in position, a few inches of finely sifted soil may be placed over the manure, and in a few days should be fit for sowing or the standing in of seed-boxes. Flower Garden. — Where Christmas Roses are grown they will now be throwing up their beautiful wax-like white flowers, and steps must be taken, if not already done, to protect them from bad weather and the ravages of slugs. A hand-light or bell-glass placed over the plants will keep off rain, fog and sooty matter, which do so much to despoil the beauty of the flowers ; but slugs are more difficult to deal with. I have found that Kilogrub sprinkled round the bases of the flower and leaf stems is a good deterrent and. moreover, a simple one. Another hardy plant that gives us its blossoms outdoors at this season is the fragrant Iris stylosa. Sparrows are very fond of plucking these blossoms ; hence some means must be taken to stop the mischief. A piece of fine fish or wire netting fi.xed over the plant or plants answers very well, or some strands of black cotton secured to sticks inserted I.--AfiOLDKX VARIK6ATED TOKM OF THE TREE IVY (HKDERA ARBOBllSCENS). round the clumps will do. At this season flowers of any kind are too scarce to lose. Where young border Carnations are being left outdoors all the winter, it is a good plan to protect them slightly during very severe weather by sticking sprays of evergreens among and around them, there usually being some available from the Christmas decorations at this season. Frmt Oarden. — Many amateurs make a point of growing a tree or two of Morello Cherries, particularly where a north wall is available, as this is one of the fruits which do well in such a position. We must not, however, think that a north wall is essential, as this fruit will do quite well when grown in bush form in the open. Where pruning has not been done, this should be attended to at once. Before commencing the work it will be well to remember that the fruits are borne only on wood that was formed last year ; hence it will be seen that these are the shoots to retain as far as possible. Pruning, therefore, will consist of cutting out sufficient two years or more old shoots to make room for the young ones. In the case of wall trees the latter may be nailed into position as soon as pruning is finished, 6 inches apart being a good distance to allow for the shoots that are retained, leaving these nearly or quite their full length. Of course, it will be necessary to remove some young ones, and the weakest and most unripe ones should be taken away. Plants in Rooms. — At this season we may expect very severe frosts, and good specimen plants used for decorating rooms are frequently forgotten, with the result that they get frozen and thereby killed. Where they are in rooms in which fires are burning, every day, there is not likely to be much injury from this cause ; but many plants are kept in rooms or halls where fires are seldom lighted. It is these latter plants that the owner must remember on frosty nights and take them to a warmer place. A little thought and libour in this respect will save many valuable and treasured specimens. It is essential more now than perhaps at any time of the year that the foliage of all plants in rooms be kept in a perfectly clean condition, as the days are dull and short, and all the sunlight possible must be allowed free access to the leaves. The importance of this cannot be over-estimated, and to keep the plants in a healthy condition they should be sponged or syringed with warm water once a week and kept as near the light as possible. Do not place them in dark corners and there leave them for days together, as therein lies failure. A. A. PLANTIN(i AND PROPAGATIN(t IVIES. THE The Ivy is probably better known to most be- ginners in gardening matters than almost any other subject, and yet comparatively little may be underbtood regarding the method of dealing with the plants and the wealth of material avail- able in the many varieties that are catalogued by nurserymen. The Ivy is known to botanists by the name of Hedera, and is a popular genus of evergreen shrubby or climbing plants ; it belongs to the Aralia family (Araliace;e). In our British climate the number of hardy evergreen climbing plants is not large, and for this reason the Ivy has an especial value. No other subject will compare with it for covering bare walls ur fences and many other unsightly erections. It is in the winter season, when so many trees and shrubs are leafless, that the Ivy asserts its real value. The small-leaved Ivies, of which there are many varieties, are very useful for growing among rockwork ; and they are also especially well adapted for training over the roots of large trees. A northern aspect suits these small-leaved varie- ties, where they look very pretty and harmonise satisfactorily with Ferns and similar subjects. Ivy as an edging is more frequently used now than was the case jormerly. Coutrasied with the glorious colours of masses of gay flowers in the summer season the effect is beautiful, and is much to be preferred to the many artificial creations, such as tiles, frequently usfd for the same pur- pose. A live margin of Ivy some 12 inches to 2 feet in width may be made into a dense fringe if the plants are properly treated. They should be arranged in rows, and the growths pegged down in one direction only as soon as planted. To keep the growths from getting overgrown and unoontrolled, the young shoots should be pinched 2. — A i;keen-leaved form of the tree ivy. nSEFUL FOR PLUNGING IS FLOWER-BEDS DURING THE WlkTER MONTHS. or cut back two or three times, according to the vigour of the plants, every summer. In addition to the many beautiful forms of the evergreen climbing Ivies, there are varieties of the Tree Ivies that are little known. The Tree Ivies are known to the botanist by the name of Hedera arborescens, and are of a non- climbing habit. In Figs. 1 and 2 two examples of the Tree Ivies are shown, and it will be noticed that they are bushes or low standards. They have a special value in the winter season, as they can be lifted if grown in pots and replanted to fill vacant flower-beds. If the plants are to retain their bushy and compact form, they must be grown continuously in pots. The soil for these Tree Ivies should comprise two parts of loam, one part of leaf-mould or decayed manure, and coarse sand in sufficient quantity to make the compost porous. See that the pots are well drained. Potiing may be done at any time between I )otober and March. In April the plants should be pruned into shapely specimens. During the growing period water freely, and in the summer established plants in pots will derive considerable benefit from periodical applications of manure water. With respect to the planting of the evergreen climbing Ivies, the numerous forms of which have originated from the one species, Hedera Helix, a native plant of Britain and other parts of Europe, objection is sometimes taken to the growth of this subject on the walls of dwellings, on the alleged ground that it makes them damp and for oiner reasons. A moment's reflection will refute such an idea. As a matter of fact it has just the opposite efiect. Moisture is drawn oflf Oy the aerial rootlets which adhere to the wall, and the leaves throw ofi^ the rain. When planting it is important to remember that the Ivy does not take kindly to cemented walls, and unless special measures can be adopted to erect a trellis or something of this kind, it may be oouiting failure to plant in such positions. Ivy ma3' be planted at any time between September and November and February to April inclusive. When planting it is better to pur- chase plants in pots, as the roots suffer less from .Ianitaky 8, 1910.] THE GARDEN. 21 disturbance. Should the soil in the pots be rather dry on arrival of the plants, give them a good watering belore planting. Fig. .'! represents a small Ivy recently planted for covering a wall. Where it is intended to plant Ivy against walls, the ground should be trenched fully 2 feet to :i feet sijuare, working in a plentiful supply of well-rotted manure, and if a quantity of old mortar rubbish can be incorporated so much the better, as Ivy revels in soil of a limy nature. It is well to remember, however, that rich soil causes the variegation to lose much of its beauty and the leaves ultimately to assume a green colour. For this reason plant the variegated sorts in poor soil. The various forms of the hardy evergreen climbing Ivies may he propagated by cuttings out- doors, those made from firm shoots S inches to a foot in lene;th answering very well. Fig. 4 shows a shoot suitable for making into a cutting, and a cutting Tiroperly prepared and ready for inser- tion. Note how the lower half of the leaves have been removed and the stem cut through immediately below a joint. These cuttings should be inserted in ordinary sandy soil, half their length, in small trenches of sufficient depth, and the soil made firm at their base before level- ling off and finishing the operation. A border under a north wall, or a similar position, should be selected, and the propagation be done at any time between September and November, a"d later when the weather is not very frosty. By these means plants may be raised with the greatest ease. Good sorts to grow are Hedera Helix oanari- ensis (the Irish Ivy), a very reliable variety, suitable for covering fences, walls and bare, un- sightly places; H. digitata, dark green, varied with white, equally good for walls, &c. ; H. dentata ; H. purpurea, purplish ; H. riKgneriana (the Giant Ivy), large heart-shaped leaves, suit able for arches, pergolas, tree trunks and walls ; "^-l^ 3. — A RECENTLY PL.\NTE0 IVV FOK COVERING A WALL. NOTE HOW THE OROWTHS ARK SECURED TO THE WALL BY SHKEDS AND NAILS. H. canariensis aureo-maculata, green and gold ; H. marginata, leaves green, edged creamy white ; H. Sdver Queen, margined and splashed ivory white ; H. tricolor, green leaves, margined and splashed cream ; H. maderensis variegata, beau- tifully variegated and suitable only for warm positions, like most of the variegated varieties : the extremely hardy and beautiful H. oaenwoodiana, with deeply lobed leaves of medium size, dark green ; and many others. D. B. C. HOW TO PRUNE YOUNG AND OLD VINES. The actual work of pruning a Vine is a very simple matter when the workman knows exactly how to do it. Many Vines, otherwise well treated, are partially ruined every year through bad pruning. Now, I will take young Vines first, those planted this winter. The canes may be 7 feet or H feet long, but they must be out back to within 2 feet of the soil level at least. Then three new shoots must be retained for the future growth, namely, one shoot on each side of the cane and a leading shoot. If Vines planted one year are to be pruned, the leading oane must be out back to within IS inches of its base, that is, of the current year's growth There will be side shoots, or laterals, on these Vines, and every care must be taken to avoid overcrowding. Cut back the side shoots to two eyes, or buds. Each side lateral should be about IS inches apart on both sides of the main rod. When dealing with old-established Vines, out the side shoots back to a plump bud ; it is wise to leave two buds to grow, and then, later on, to disbud and only retain one new shoot — the strongest. It is a mistake to leave more than one lateral to a spur. If the Vines possess very long spurs, the flow of sap will be obstructed ; so it is a wise plan in such cases to train up gradually a young cane from the base of the old Vine and to remove the side shoots from the old spurs upwards as the young cane grows. Thus, the young oane will be 18 inches long when pruned, and the two lower spurs on the old cane must be wholly disbudded. The next year the young cane will be 3 feet long, and more old spurs must be disbudded, and so on until the young cane takes the place of the old one, which must be entirely cut back. Shamrock. THE TOWN GARDEN. Bdlh Barcains. — The closing of the bulb season each year affords a good opportunity to a large number of securing many good and choice kinds at greatly reduced prices — prices often enough out of all proportion to those at which they were offered a few months previously. That these late-planted bulbs do not, and cannot be expected to, equal those which were planted in due season goes, I think, without saying. Yet they are of a sufficiently good and meritorious character to warrant their being planted with a free hand. The cheap rates, too, at which such things are offered by British firms should tempt many to purchase who have not yet done so, or even to encourage those who may have planted earlier in the season to further indulge their hobby or their tastes, and endeavour in. this way to brighten the old corners of the garden, the border or the shrubbery. To those who would like to engage in wild gardening on a small scale — that is, the planting in any free and informal manner plants of a bulbous nature in the forefront of the shrubbery border — these cheap offers of bulbs permit of the work being done at Bmall cost ; and many varieties of Nar- cissi and Tulips may be thus introduced to pro- vide a succession to others planted at an earlier date. The mistake usually made is the planting of these late batches much too near the surface, and thereby exciting them to grow before they are sufficiently rooted to warrant success. With- out a doubt, one of the best possible of such in- vestments would be a free planting of the Darwin TnLipg, for not only do these provide a late display of flowers of a unique character, but they suffer considerably less through having been kept so long in the dry state. To those who require cjuantities of flowers of the boldest description nothing can equal the group of Tulips I have in mind, and, indeed, I have been rewarded with blossoms as the out- come of these late plantings but little inferior to those planted at a more seasonable time. It is important that the bulbs be planted quite t) inches deep, and the soil given a soaking of water at the planting level should it be at all dry. Ane.mones. — Any of the tuberous-rooted Ane- mones may now be planted with every hope of success, and an even greater measure of success than in those instances where the earliest-planted, haying i|uickly produced top growth, have had this out down by severe frosts. Brilliant patches of Anemone fulgens in any of its forms have no equal among the garden flowers of early spring, and those who indulge in such are not likely to overlook them in the years to come. The con- dition of the tubers when in the dry state is apt K H 4^ 4. — CUTTIN(;S OF THE BVERtiREEN IVY. THAT ON THE LEFT IS THE KIND OF SHOOT FROM WHICH CUTTINGS ARE MADE, AND THAT ON THE RIGHT IS A CUTTING PROPERLY" PRE- PARED AND READY FOR PLANTING. to deceive, seeing that they are reduced to about one half of their normal size. In planting, there- fore, see that the tubers or dry roots are kept at least 6 inches apart each way, and by forming patches of IS inches or 24 inches across a most brilliant effect will be secured. These plants delight in rich, moist soils, and such as these with drainage secure are calculated to give the best results at flowering time. All the forms of the Crown and Poppy Anemone may be similarly treated, and will afford a rich display of blossoms. Early Sweet Peas.— The earliest batches of these intended for planting out later on, that are now in pots in cold frames, should not be for- gotten in the event of severe weather setting in. A very liglit covering of mats will usually suffice as a protection, and even this is not necessary where the frame has been built against the south side of the greenhouse. During hard weather the soil should be kept moderately dry and every advantage taken of milder weather to ventilate the frames, in this way adding strength to the plants. Occasionally, when hard pressed, mice will attack the tops of the plants, eating them off at the soil and carrying them away for nest- building or for food. A few traps and a watch- ful eye at such a time will often prevent a good deal of loss and disappointment. Currant Mite. — It is said, and not without truth perhaps, that there is no cure for the mite which is responsible for the big bud on the Black Currants, and which of late has played such terrible havoc with this most important bush fruit crop of the garden. At the same time there is a simple, if only a partial, remedy that is within the reach of all, and for this reason is worthy of trial. The remedy in question consists of sulphur and lime, 21b. of the latter and lib. of the former, well mixed together and dusted over the branches of the trees at a time when these are in a moist condition and capable of retaining a fair proportion of the mixture. A few weeks hence it may be advisable to repeat the opera- tion with a view to reduce the pest if possible and secure a fair harvest of fruit. That the above dressing applied early in autumn and again in winter and in early spring has consider- ably improved matters I know full well, and on the principle of half a loaf being better than no bread the matter is worth pursuing yet further. E. H .Jenkins. 22 THE GARDEN. January 8, 1910. NEW PLANTS. CYi'RirEDiuM Alabaster macnikicdm. — A large flower of unusual colour. The dorsal sepal is white, flaked rosy mauve, and the labellum and petals are a sort of mixture of rosy mauve and bronze, the margins having a dull golden tint. Shown by Lieutenant-Colonel Holford, C.I.E., C.V. 0., Westonbirt, Tetbury, (Jlouoester. Award of merit. Gypripedium x Mrs. F. Sander. — A beautiful flower with white and green dorsal sepal, golden labellum and yellowish petals, the whole forming a striking combination. Deiidrohiiiiii Pha/n'iiopsix scli.riiieriana album Sander's raruty. — A very beautiful flower, and much more graceful than its ponderous and use- less name suggests. The flowers are of splendid substance and pure glistening white, being placed well upon the stem. Both the above came from Messrs. Sander and Son, St. Albans, and each received a first-class certificate. Odontioda keighliyensis Fowlers rariety. — A very well-coloured member of this bigeneric race, the medium-sized flowers being very rich glowing scarlet, a prominent blotch of bright gold on the labellum contrasting well with the background. Shown by .1. Gurney Fowler, Esq. First-class certificate. L